Latest / Specialty Matcha Podcast / An Afternoon with a Chashi
Transcript
- 0:07Hello Ryan from the Future here. We're doing a survey.
- 0:10It's only 5 questions I've posted in the show notes, so if
- 0:14you're a regular listener, we would love to learn about what
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- 0:20what topics we should cover. If you have a moment, we would
- 0:23love to hear your feedback, good and bad so that we can improve
- 0:27the podcast. Thanks so much.
- 0:28Hello, and welcome to the Special C Match podcast.
- 0:30My name is Brian and this is Michael Ho Zhongjun.
- 0:33Hello. Hello also goes by Sam and we're
- 0:35the cofounders of Sanko Macha Products.
- 0:37Yeah, we launched this podcast to discuss our learning journey,
- 0:39Macha, share startup stories and interview expert.
- 0:42Today we have a very unique episode that we didn't really
- 0:46think we'd have the opportunity to get to talk about.
- 0:48So something we've talked about frequently, especially in the
- 0:51last season, is this very interesting profession called
- 0:54chachi or tea blender or Dee purveyors.
- 0:57And so these are the people behind the large traditional
- 1:00blend houses. They have people whose job it is
- 1:03to create new blends or to make sure that blends stay
- 1:06consistent. And other than hearing a few
- 1:09like bits and pieces and from people that have met them, we
- 1:12actually knew relatively little about their profession other
- 1:15than that it was very difficult in an art.
- 1:17Yeah. So actually my anticipation or
- 1:21expectation of these people has always been like a very
- 1:25traditional old Japanese grandpa, like with a lot of
- 1:28white hairs in this traditional, you know, Japanese dressing,
- 1:32living in the little Hut, doing some kind of, you know, like the
- 1:36herbal blending in a Miyazaki movie.
- 1:39Giant spittoon where he goes up, does his slurping, spits it into
- 1:44the bucket 3 meters away. Yeah.
- 1:46And then whispering to himself like, so, so, so, so.
- 1:50But yeah, so we met this person about a year ago, but at the
- 1:55time we actually didn't know that he is a chashi.
- 1:59Yeah, no idea. And I guess like, I guess
- 2:02partially because he is really not that image that we were
- 2:07imagining and the person was super down to earth, very, very
- 2:11transparent about all the knowledge that he has about tea
- 2:16and tea business and actually very business oriented.
- 2:19Yeah, very business oriented talking these, especially
- 2:22compared to a lot of other Japanese tea producers or people
- 2:26in various points in the value chain that we've interacted
- 2:30with. It was actually kind of
- 2:31shocking, especially being in like Kyoto Prefecture and
- 2:34spending a lot of time in Kyoto Prefecture where it's a little
- 2:37more traditional, little more like you need to be a little
- 2:39more culturally sensitive. People don't really say what
- 2:42they mean all the time to a world where it's like, wow, it
- 2:47almost feels like we're in China.
- 2:48Like it's just so direct. Very direct, very
- 2:52straightforward. And it it was really until that
- 2:55we start asking about very like deep questions related to tea,
- 3:00tea blending tea business that he starts to give us some very,
- 3:04very in depth and informative answers that I had the gut to
- 3:08ask him, Are you a Tashi? And he said yes.
- 3:12And actually he won the National award for Tashi.
- 3:15So he was the number one tea blending master in Japan one
- 3:20year. And he also happens to also be a
- 3:23tea farmer and apparently is one of about 5 or 6, apparently
- 3:27Tashi's that are also tea farmers and have complete
- 3:31knowledge all the way from agriculture to the finished
- 3:35product, which is apparently pretty uncommon.
- 3:38So we, the moment we learned that the poor guy, they probably
- 3:42got bombarded with like 100 questions from us over the
- 3:46course of lunch in the sea, generously drove us to, to the
- 3:50airport. So we took full advantage of
- 3:52every second to, to learn as much as we could.
- 3:55Because, you know, it's something that we've talked
- 3:57about on this podcast, especially last season, is that
- 3:59these, this profession within the tea community of these tea
- 4:03blenders and the work that they're doing is just so widely
- 4:06unknown. You know, in other industries
- 4:08you'll hear about like master roaster, master blender at a
- 4:13coffee house, you'll hear about people who do this in chocolate
- 4:17to make sure that chocolate is tasting consistent or unique or
- 4:21different, and a huge history of this in wine or even within the
- 4:25context of tea. It's also very common, you know,
- 4:27all the products that people love, like English breakfast,
- 4:30Earl Grey, all of these types of teas are blended products.
- 4:34And there's people somewhere in the world cupping a whole lot of
- 4:37tea and making sure that this slot makes sense in this blend
- 4:41and creating new blends as well. And so it's a really interesting
- 4:44profession. But in Japan, just like
- 4:46everything else, they kind of take it to a whole new level.
- 4:48So before we jump into this, Sam, why don't we talk a little
- 4:51bit about everything we knew about Tashi's before we had the
- 4:55opportunity to ask all these questions?
- 4:58Wow. Very little, actually.
- 4:59So they use a Don system. Yeah, it's.
- 5:02But historically, Tashi is really a social class in Japan
- 5:07that granted the privilege to use shaded cultivation for the
- 5:12gardens that that they controlled.
- 5:14And historically there were three types of chashi.
- 5:18Each was responsible historically for a specific
- 5:21segment of Tantra manufacturing and all the way serve it to the
- 5:26shogunate. So the border between those
- 5:29chashis kind of get fussed, you know, later on in the Japan
- 5:35slowly enter into the major restoration and actually there
- 5:39were chashis outside of the historical region that got the
- 5:44permission to also use shade the cultivation.
- 5:47Historical region, of course, being Uji, that's right where
- 5:50during the majority of the adults the only place where you
- 5:53could legally have shaded cultivation of tea that could be
- 5:56then turned into matcha. So.
- 5:58But apparently there were other regions probably stretching out
- 6:02into perhaps Huazuka, perhaps Uji Tawara that as everything
- 6:06started to loosen up saw some shaded cultivation.
- 6:09But we're having actually a lot of trouble proving that than any
- 6:12records or books that we've read but these.
- 6:14But I guess there was this last class of chashi as everything
- 6:17loosened up that helped from what you've read.
- 6:20Yeah, that's right. But you know, the, the, the role
- 6:24of Tashi is really to aggregate all of these crude material that
- 6:28they source from all corners of, you know, Kyoto Prefecture.
- 6:32But at the time, Kyoto Prefecture wasn't well defined
- 6:35yet too. So like any kind of places that
- 6:38they end up sourcing tea from, but they aggregated that into
- 6:42into into a single or a handful of products.
- 6:47Blended products and the idea is that they taste the same year
- 6:50after year after year. I mean, tea is an agricultural
- 6:53product and depending on weather and how much fertilizer you
- 6:57applied and how many days it was shaded, a pretty significant
- 7:01taste variations. So their job is to make sure
- 7:04that like hatsu mukashi every year from their brand, from
- 7:07their brand tastes like hatsu mukashi should.
- 7:11So something that David said, and I believe it was the last
- 7:14season of the podcast, David from Tizumi, the American matcha
- 7:17brand, is that a lot of these chashi's role historically was
- 7:22to understand both the agricultural practices that were
- 7:26going on in the cultivation and processing of macha and tensha.
- 7:31But their job was also to have one foot in high society.
- 7:35All of these nobles and feudal Lords and samurai that were
- 7:41consuming it. And they acted as this bridge or
- 7:44this conduit between farmers and people doing like, agriculture
- 7:49and labor and the people who were consuming the tea in what
- 7:53can be described as very affluent sentence in creating
- 7:57products for them. So their role historically has
- 8:00been that, but it has also slowly changed as Japan has
- 8:03changed. Yeah.
- 8:04But they still kind of still serve that role even till this
- 8:08day, like a very unique form, I would say, of client management.
- 8:15They're still responsible for creating special blends for, you
- 8:19know, different Yamato's from different schools and
- 8:22maintaining that kind of a Guangxi or relationship with all
- 8:27these, you know, very high class quote UN quote high class
- 8:31buyers, but within Japan. So you will see a lot of these
- 8:35plans being kind of endorsed by different Yamoto's with
- 8:39different names, but frequently they're actually the same
- 8:41product, but or they're slightly different depending on, you
- 8:45know, the Yamoto's own preference.
- 8:47Yeah, it's very unclear like how much iteration is done on behalf
- 8:52of these Yamoto's, whether or not they taste it and say Yep,
- 8:54taste good, I'm going to endorse it or if they're giving
- 8:57feedback. And we also heard from David,
- 8:59from Tuzumi from his samurai school of tea ceremony that he
- 9:03practices that their Yamoto does really engage back and forth
- 9:07with their schools Chashi giving them direct feedback about what
- 9:12they want to change within that blend that have apparently used
- 9:14Narino as one of like I believe 20 different blend components.
- 9:18So it actually gets quite complicated.
- 9:20But so there is some definite feedback, but there's also a lot
- 9:24of tea that is the identical blend and that's just given
- 9:27different names depending on who it was endorsed by.
- 9:30And actually it's, we recently learned this an interesting
- 9:33piece of tea industry gossip. A lot of these have names like 1
- 9:37was endorsed by one school of tea ceremony, let's say Amato
- 9:40Sanke, the others by Urasanke. And they have two different
- 9:43names. And then typically that blend
- 9:45also exists, has a different name within the same portfolio.
- 9:50It just doesn't have the endorsement.
- 9:52And typically it's much cheaper. It has a cheaper price.
- 9:55You are basically paying for the name essentially.
- 9:58So you have to be in the know to understand what's going on with
- 10:01these poetic naming conventions. So, you know, we talked a lot
- 10:05this about before. If you haven't heard, we
- 10:06recorded an episode called our Poetic Matcha Names Harmful from
- 10:10a consumer perspective. I still believe this is the case
- 10:14because you still don't hear any chashis in any of these large
- 10:17blend houses talking about the relationship between the poetic
- 10:21name. Which you know a poetic name
- 10:23should have deep meaning, but otherwise you would just call it
- 10:25an arbitrary name, which is what it basically is to to to most
- 10:29people. But if it's a poetic name,
- 10:32supposedly there is something behind it, some connotations,
- 10:36some reference to something. Maybe it's a fleeting thing,
- 10:40maybe it's a color thing, maybe it's a paste thing, or maybe
- 10:44it's a link to someone's very specific preferences.
- 10:46But you know, we just have no idea and people give it these
- 10:50random names, which is quite frustrating as a consumer from
- 10:53trying to learn anything. Well, from what I have been
- 10:55reading from all of those names, I can read some, most of the
- 10:59congies, if they're the names are in country.
- 11:01Sometimes they're not in country.
- 11:02Actually very infrequently that these names has actually have
- 11:07any implication to the product itself.
- 11:10It's usually implying like a like, like like a reference from
- 11:14the Tale of Genji or a reference from a, you know, ancient
- 11:19Japanese literature. And my suspicions is that these
- 11:24references are probably serve the purpose of kind of denoting
- 11:29a theme in the tea ceremony or tea gathering for a kind of
- 11:32attach a meaning to that. But you know, like frequently
- 11:35you know, you would actually learn the very little about the
- 11:38product itself based on the name.
- 11:40Yeah, it just doesn't say anything at all.
- 11:43So we've also learned before we learned this, we have asked some
- 11:46people that have interacted with Japanese Tashi, like how are
- 11:51they able to bind, identify things like how do they actually
- 11:54work in creating these blends? And what we've learned from
- 11:58Mark, from Ohika is that it's a self referential architecture.
- 12:02So they have this idea of like, let's say an archetypal
- 12:06Okumadori cultivar, for example, or an archetypal Yabukita or
- 12:11Samidori or Asahi or Uji Hakari or same, or any of the common
- 12:16cultivars used. And then based off of that
- 12:18reference point, they say it's more or less this one thing than
- 12:23the other. And then they kind of have that
- 12:25as like little drawers in their brain to stores references when
- 12:29they're evaluating new samples and anchoring to those
- 12:33references to decide how much they'll bid an auction for a
- 12:37particular lot or selecting a pre contracted tensha that
- 12:42they're buying from farmers and then blending into different
- 12:46products. And then supposedly using this
- 12:48framework to to try to make a good, well tasting blend across
- 12:53the attributes that they care about.
- 12:55There's still a little bit of a mystery and probably a question
- 12:59that I should have asked is that how do they keep that flavor
- 13:04memory up to date? Because, you know, all these,
- 13:10all these, you know, cultivars, depending on the weather,
- 13:13depending climate, depending on, you know, people's different
- 13:16usage of fertilizer will probably drift year by year.
- 13:19Indeed. But there must be some sort of
- 13:21mechanism. But, you know, like, it's also
- 13:24very interesting because, like, we, we learned about that this
- 13:26whole community inside Japan is actually quite small.
- 13:29Yeah. About 200 people. 200 people and
- 13:33and these 200 people like at least will all gathered once a
- 13:37year and a lot of these regional Tashis will have their own
- 13:42community, their own correlation and they're like in constant
- 13:46communication with. So here's an interesting
- 13:48question. How do you make sure that my
- 13:50archetypal Yabukita is the same as yours?
- 13:53Yeah. Across all of these other
- 13:56people, are they creating all like independent cousin systems?
- 14:01Yeah, probably like impossible. It's like for even for their
- 14:06regional access of different teas must be like different too.
- 14:10There's probably less value that these Tashi can extract from
- 14:15talking to another Tashi that's from the far away region, maybe
- 14:19some blending techniques. But in terms of the tea itself,
- 14:23I don't know. I'll put a question mark on
- 14:24that. Yeah, I mean, it's really hard
- 14:26to say. And the other difficult thing
- 14:28is, like, Sam, if you and I wanted to become Achashi, it'd
- 14:31be almost impossible. And apparently a lot of this is
- 14:34passed down from father to son primarily.
- 14:37Or like, you know, their brother's achashi.
- 14:40They're Achashi, their father's achashi.
- 14:42And part of the reason why it's almost impossible for anyone to
- 14:45come from the outside to learn the skill is 1.
- 14:48I don't think there's like, really a school where they teach
- 14:50this sort of thing. But also, it's almost impossible
- 14:54to acquire the references, right?
- 14:56So for example, we were just gifted another pair of
- 14:59fertilized and unfertilized tea from the same region, from the
- 15:04same producer, from the same harvest, processed on the same
- 15:07equipment. And unless you have that
- 15:09reference, like you're just not going to really understand what
- 15:12fertilizer does. And now you compound that across
- 15:16everything, the cultivars, the growing regions, the tension
- 15:20processing steps in particular, like where and how heat
- 15:24treatment is applied and have a huge impact on taste.
- 15:28How long it's been aging for, how well the tea was fertilized,
- 15:32the way it was shaded, the way it was picked, how long it was
- 15:35shaded, All of these things, whether or not you were picking
- 15:38a little bit too early or a little bit too late from a
- 15:41cultivar standpoint. Turns out that like most of the
- 15:45tea in Japan is not picked perfectly on the perfect day
- 15:48could possibly do because the tea factory is totally full,
- 15:51right? So there's a lot of like real,
- 15:53like physical, real world infrastructure constraints and
- 15:57they taste for that. Absolutely.
- 15:59And also like depending on the region, like different chashi's
- 16:02must have a very different accessibility to all the
- 16:06processing equipments. So Al Chashi has direct access
- 16:10to his own machineries to process tensha and does shiage.
- 16:15But for a lot of you know, other chashis, they probably need to
- 16:19work with the existing mechanisms, whether it's a
- 16:23cooperative or a different factory or a different company
- 16:27to to achieve the taste profile. So probably for some chashis
- 16:33they have way less control of the end product than others.
- 16:36So yeah, no, absolutely. And especially with access to
- 16:39references, because if you watch any of like the wine
- 16:41documentaries of people becoming like Master of Wine or the court
- 16:45of Master Sommelier, the biggest problem, one of the biggest
- 16:49barriers to entry is just accumulating and actually like
- 16:52being able to afford the references to say this is a
- 16:55California Chardonnay that has never seen oak from this year,
- 17:00probably from this region, right?
- 17:02Like you got to compound that across every single thing that
- 17:04matters in wine. And unless you're tied to some
- 17:07sort of institution like a restaurant or someone that has a
- 17:10deep, deep seller or you have your own deep pockets, you just
- 17:14never going to accumulate the references to be able to do this
- 17:18type of like master level tasting and master level work.
- 17:22And that's just talking about identification.
- 17:25And that has nothing to do with actually starting to blend
- 17:27things together and understanding the way flavor
- 17:30interacts. Not only the way flavor
- 17:32interacts as tencha when you blend it, but the way then the
- 17:35flavor is going to then be transformed into matcha.
- 17:38This is actually one of the most exciting things about our mill
- 17:42Sanko Usu One. We just launched a beta program
- 17:46for which mills matcha to five microns.
- 17:49It has a cooling system and even the shape of the matcha
- 17:52particles themselves are characteristic of an Ishiyusu.
- 17:56What's so awesome about this equipment is that the scale can
- 18:00now be people now have access to this infrastructure that are
- 18:05outside Japan and they can taste tensha and then immediately
- 18:09taste what it tastes like as which is so difficult right now
- 18:14because tension is not even available.
- 18:16But even now, as every new meal we have out into the world is a
- 18:20potential new person who can learn this back-to-back
- 18:23transformation within the value creation and the physical
- 18:27creation of matcha of what it tastes like from one step of
- 18:30processing to the next. That makes me so incredibly
- 18:34excited. Oh, yeah.
- 18:35It really unlocks a lot of possibilities.
- 18:38I mean, essentially, like people can do their own blends
- 18:40theoretically. That's a part of a very
- 18:44important value creation segment that has been so abstracted away
- 18:49historically from from you know, anyone that's outside of the
- 18:53industry because like even to this date, building a milling
- 18:57facility, acquiring all the those mills to get you to create
- 19:02the products, it's incredibly expensive even for people that
- 19:07lives inside of Japan, not to mention about people trying to
- 19:09import issue used to their own country.
- 19:11Absolutely. So Sam, what were some of the
- 19:13things that oh, actually I wanted to say one more point
- 19:16about things that we knew about Chashi and to shout out Koto tea
- 19:19space and they have a fantastic YouTube video.
- 19:22It's about 45 minutes long talking.
- 19:24I think the main topic was about like what is ceremonial grade
- 19:27matcha? And they're kind of
- 19:28deconstructing that marketing term.
- 19:31But he they referenced a particular book that is written
- 19:35in Japanese also talking about the work of Chashi's way back in
- 19:39the day before cultivars even existed.
- 19:42So to give everyone a little context, almost now everything
- 19:45that is produced is some form of cultivar.
- 19:49Just like we have different grape varieties like Pinot Noir,
- 19:51Chardonnay, same exists within tea.
- 19:54And the reason that we do this or the reason that the industry
- 19:56does this, one, it does create different tastes, but two, the
- 20:00tea is all within that cultivar is ready to be picked at the
- 20:03same time. So typically you have early
- 20:06cultivars like normal cultivars and late cultivars, and you
- 20:11stagger out. What tea, quote UN quote ripens,
- 20:14if you think about it, in the case of fruit, what tea is ready
- 20:17to be picked when so you don't clog your tea factories, it
- 20:21means that you can like be processing a whole lot longer,
- 20:25but still picking everything when it's supposed to be picked.
- 20:28But back in the day, everything was what we call zyri, which are
- 20:33a seed propagated tea. So basically the plants are not
- 20:35genetically identical and they're allowed to have some
- 20:38form of sexual reproduction, which leads to seeds and those
- 20:42seeds have a lot of genetic diversity.
- 20:44It's kind of like apples. If you take like an apple seed
- 20:47from a random apple that you eat, you're not going to get a
- 20:49honey crisp apple tree and you're going to get something
- 20:52else which might taste great or might taste horrible.
- 20:55And so very similar thing with tea.
- 20:57If you go to a xyri field, the shape of the leaves looks
- 21:01different, the glossiness of the leaves look different, the thick
- 21:05and thinness look different, how jagged they are all sorts of
- 21:09thing and and when they're totally ready to be picked.
- 21:11So Achachi's part of their job was actually to know the tea
- 21:14plants quite intimately and go around and they would also
- 21:18exhibit very different colors. And so they would go to some of
- 21:21the lighter plants and label it shiro, which means white.
- 21:25And those were picked and separated and sorted separately
- 21:28to create these pseudo categories.
- 21:30And they would label these different things.
- 21:32And that was part of their job is actually much earlier on the
- 21:35process. Before the the tea was even
- 21:37picked, they were already doing some categorization about what
- 21:41should be picked when and how, how it should be organized into
- 21:44batches during processing. That was arguably one of the
- 21:47origin of why some of the macha is called something something No
- 21:510. Yes.
- 21:53Which is very interesting. I have three different reasons
- 21:58why, but that's one of the potential.
- 21:59Theory. That's one of the potential
- 22:01theory. And I believe the book is called
- 22:02Macha No Subite, which is one of the, I would say, most
- 22:07comprehensive book about, you know, different information of
- 22:11different history and different, you know, matcha making science
- 22:16and also a lot of historical records of how matcha gets
- 22:20produced in different parts of Japan.
- 22:24But the book I think is only available in Japanese and
- 22:26Chinese traditional Chinese. Traditional Chinese.
- 22:29Yeah, so but a very interesting book and also talks about the
- 22:34history of the three types of chashi, which I which I only
- 22:39happens to find two other sources also in Japanese on the
- 22:43Internet that also talks about that part of this.
- 22:46So highly recommend anyone to read this book.
- 22:49If you can. So Ryan, that was I guess, most
- 22:53of the things that we learned before we talked to our Chashi
- 22:57friend. So what do we learn after?
- 23:00Yes. So one of my first questions and
- 23:03I felt very embarrassed asking this, but thankfully I think we
- 23:06had built up enough rapport. It's like how accurate are
- 23:09chashis at identifying this? So like if they taste tensha,
- 23:14like how accurate is a normal chashi?
- 23:17It's saying, oh, this is from Wazuka conventional agriculture,
- 23:23meaning there was fertilizer and pesticide usage from Oku Midori,
- 23:27etcetera, a cultivar. And he didn't fully answer the
- 23:31question, but I will give you what we have gotten is it's
- 23:35talked about level of points. So this is the chashi system
- 23:39uses something called the Don system or like a belt system.
- 23:43Is it the like like in karate? Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 23:46They use a similar system for like Kendall, like Japanese
- 23:50traditional fencing and you know, other art that has a
- 23:53ranking system. And apparently the lowest level
- 23:56is 1 done and the highest level is having 1010 level done.
- 24:03So he said for level 1 done, it's about a 50% accuracy in
- 24:09identification. That's as about accurate as
- 24:12flipping a coin well. Actually it's not.
- 24:15I mean it's about accurate. It's like flipping a die.
- 24:17I think with multiple faces it's a lot.
- 24:20I mean there's a lot of different possibilities where T
- 24:22comes from and different cultivars.
- 24:24Hey, I'd be happy with the percent.
- 24:27Well, I mean the kind of the the entry bar, the kind of is not
- 24:31not as high as I anticipated. Surely it requires some practice
- 24:36and knowledge. Yes, indeed.
- 24:37And apparently level 2 is about 55% accuracy, so not a very
- 24:41large jump. But I guess it's pretty
- 24:44difficult to hit a very accurate score because there's just so
- 24:49little standardized training material for anyone to be able
- 24:53to kind of practice and gain knowledge with.
- 24:56And the variation of all these materials are so large year by
- 25:00year. Yeah, and apparently they source
- 25:02a lot of these material from the competition collectively.
- 25:06So like, it's like a potluck, like everyone brings a bunch of
- 25:09references. Which?
- 25:11Was kind of an interesting, interesting point.
- 25:14After level 2, we have no idea, but we've heard from Mark from
- 25:17Ohika that after about level 5, you basically commit to doing
- 25:22this for the rest of your life, but you can like just kind of
- 25:25put your foot in the door on earlier levels of of Don and
- 25:30Chashi. I mean, we also know that Level
- 25:3210 is very, very rare and that they also hold the competition
- 25:35every year to see who's kind of #1 And it's very unclear if the
- 25:38competition has anything to do with the Don system because
- 25:41we've also heard there's like theoretical exams, but at what
- 25:45point and when and what it gives you access to is also a little
- 25:49unclear. Everyone seems to be very
- 25:51confused about how the system actually works, and we've talked
- 25:54to people who've been in the industry for decades and it's
- 25:57still we have a more clear picture, which is why we're
- 26:00recording this, but it's certainly very fuzzy.
- 26:02Yeah. But this, these competitions are
- 26:05held, you know, every year and in different regions too.
- 26:08So the regions kind of rotate from, you know, this year's in
- 26:12Shizuoka, next year is back to Kyoto, and all of the Chashis
- 26:15will participate in these events.
- 26:18And apparently the competition is very, very competitive.
- 26:22And it lasts for only a day. And we think that one day you
- 26:26need to do all of these blind tastings and things That is part
- 26:30of the examination criteria. So very, very competitive.
- 26:34How Tashi Friend actually described it with a very frowned
- 26:38face. Like if it's something that's
- 26:41hard memory, yeah. Probably hard on.
- 26:44Your stomach, probably. So one of my questions was, so
- 26:48right now we're like really learning about pesticide residue
- 26:51requirements for different countries because if you source
- 26:55outside the standard group of producers and tea farmers within
- 27:00Japan that have experience exporting tea abroad.
- 27:03So if you want to expand that circle to people that have more
- 27:06supply, but in exchange they have less, the reason they have
- 27:10more supply is because they have less experience exporting
- 27:13anything from from their stocks. My thought was, oh wow, you
- 27:17know, I wonder because we know within tea blending, you need to
- 27:21maintain flavor, you need to maintain color and you need to
- 27:24maintain cost. And all three of these things
- 27:27are like the things that you're optimizing around every year
- 27:30when you're creating these different blends.
- 27:32But then I thought, oh, wow, you also need to maintain compliance
- 27:36for pesticide residue because what's allowed to enter, let's
- 27:39say, like a very low compliance country like Thailand versus a
- 27:43very high compliance region like the European Union?
- 27:48I wonder, like these stocks must be differently available.
- 27:51And I wonder if you can take some very like medium level
- 27:54pesticide tea, mix it with a bunch of organic tea and get it
- 27:58to fall just below the threshold requirement.
- 28:01So I asked that in a much more simple way, and they said no,
- 28:05that actually this is really not part of a chashi's job.
- 28:08They do not focus much on at all pesticides or any form of
- 28:13compliance beyond knowing that the components they're working
- 28:16with already are compliant or not.
- 28:19Yeah. I mean, the gain of that is
- 28:21probably very low because like for places like EU, for a lot of
- 28:26these criterias, it's like absolute 0, like you cannot have
- 28:30anything related to certain items on the examination sheet.
- 28:34So, yeah, I don't know. And also for like accessibility
- 28:38on you know, testing equipments, you know, doing tea testing and
- 28:42all these chemical residual testing is very, very cumbersome
- 28:45and expensive. So it's probably not worth the
- 28:48gain of trying to do a compliance blending of sneak
- 28:53some of the non compliance things underneath the table.
- 28:56Yeah. It's actually very unfortunate
- 28:58how expensive this is because you know, unless you're doing
- 29:01very large volumes it literally doesn't make any sense
- 29:04economically. Do any form of pesticide
- 29:07residual testing. Apparently the thresholds is at
- 29:11least one to two KG of T. Sacrifice a lot.
- 29:15So and even in China, you know, we're in and out of China
- 29:18because we're developing and manufacturing this mill now.
- 29:21It's like, oh, got to be highly commoditized over here.
- 29:24But even in China costs I think 350 U.S. dollars plus all the
- 29:29sample that you need to part with. $300 yeah, just to test a
- 29:33very basic techless like if you get it to if you want to test
- 29:40the tea, if if the tea is EU compliant, you need to upgrade
- 29:44to a much more expensive package.
- 29:45But apparently too, if you're not, so long as you're not
- 29:48importing metric tons, a lot of the stuff flies under the radar.
- 29:51So everything is just built on trust and that yes, it's EU
- 29:54compliant. No, it's not EU compliant.
- 29:56And we've also heard from some people, not not this Chashi, but
- 29:59from someone else, that a lot of producers will just blend
- 30:03together a bunch of material that they're reporting and then
- 30:06send that off for pesticide residue testing to make sure
- 30:10that the average is within compliance.
- 30:12If they got audited, it wouldn't pass, but at least they can have
- 30:15some Peace of Mind that there isn't like, you know, something
- 30:18really horrific in that tea. We also asked about color and I
- 30:21like my specific question was like, what is the your
- 30:23vocabulary to talk about the color matcha?
- 30:26Many use two different descriptors.
- 30:29One is brilliant green. And then I clarified, you know,
- 30:32like Sami Dori, like a very light color called for.
- 30:34He said yes, exactly. And then he said deep green,
- 30:37which is, and I used Oku Midori as a clarification.
- 30:41And he said yes, like like Oku Midori.
- 30:43Oku actually just means like deep or profound in Japanese
- 30:47language and Sai like the IT means like bright or like very
- 30:52sharp. So they're descriptive.
- 30:54Very descriptive names actually, so that that that was actually
- 30:59very interesting. And they don't necessarily have
- 31:01the very kind of like a point system to describe the color.
- 31:06It's kind of, you know, arbitrary.
- 31:09Yeah. And from what we understand like
- 31:12because we tried to clarify this too, it's very little objective.
- 31:16Color measurement is done like any form of color imagery or
- 31:20direct like analytical measurement.
- 31:22But I guess that should exist or probably definitely exist at
- 31:27some point because you have all these, like, automated color
- 31:29sweater for tensha. You definitely, you know,
- 31:32someone definitely has the knowledge of how to set the
- 31:35machine to sort the color of, you know, all these tensha
- 31:39leaves. So I guess maybe that specialty
- 31:41is not part of Chachi's job. It's unknown, Yeah.
- 31:44Very unknown. Technically, I guess they would
- 31:47help maybe overseas parts of Xiage or maybe it's very context
- 31:51dependent whether or not they have any control over the Xiage
- 31:54processing. But you know, we don't know.
- 31:56We also asked like, are you friends with other Tashi's?
- 31:59Like what is the community like? But he says he talks to them all
- 32:02the time from all over, from different prefectures and that,
- 32:06you know, they're constantly asking questions to each other
- 32:08and sharing references. So there is an internal
- 32:10community as far as we can tell. Probably there is a secret forum
- 32:15you know somewhere that that is some sort of a Tashi haven.
- 32:21All easy you regulations, they're horrible, so difficult
- 32:25to make anything taste good for this market.
- 32:28That's funny. What's next?
- 32:30Oh, we asked him what his cultivars were that he was most
- 32:34excited about new cultivars when he talked about Kirari 31, which
- 32:39if you haven't had it yet, you absolutely have to go find a
- 32:42matcha or even a sencha or Gokiro.
- 32:45That's Kirari 31. Really worth it to have the
- 32:47reference. Tastes very good, very creamy,
- 32:49very interesting. And the other one is same, which
- 32:53I know they're doing a lot of growth in the Kagushima on.
- 32:56Yeah. And we also asked him about
- 32:57what's his opinion about this recently popular new cultivar
- 33:02for matcha. And it's not a new cultivar for
- 33:03tea, but new cultivar for matcha is Sayama Kaori.
- 33:07And he said that, you know, it's definitely doesn't carry a lot
- 33:11of the traditional matcha characteristic.
- 33:13It's more bitter and stringent, but the flavor is very complex.
- 33:17So we actually end up procuring a bag of Salma Cowley tensha.
- 33:22So we are going to melt that into macho powder with our
- 33:26machine and see if it's indeed, you know, good or bad.
- 33:29And something that we are doing in sort of our attempt to help
- 33:32people not necessarily become chashis, but at least start
- 33:35deconstructing and self teaching the skill of learning to taste
- 33:40different tensha on different tensha samples.
- 33:42And we're going to be launching something akin to like a Tensha
- 33:44library where we're going to unbundle these, these like 1 to
- 33:492K reference bags that we have into probably 25 or 50G sample
- 33:54to make available to anyone, not just mill owners.
- 33:56And so if you want to try this at some point in the near
- 34:00future, it will be on our website and you'll be able to
- 34:03order it and have that taste reference.
- 34:05One thing that the quite surprised me after talking to
- 34:09our Chashi friend, well, after learning that he's a Chashi is
- 34:13how like not cagey they are. Like we have this kind of
- 34:19anticipation of these, you know, Tashi's being having their own
- 34:23language, their own society, their own culture, But it's it's
- 34:27really not that. Like he's very transparent about
- 34:30all the knowledge that he has. And he's also very open about
- 34:33the idea of, you know, other people doing the blending
- 34:36themselves. So I think with our machine, we
- 34:39can really unlock the freedom or the possibility of, you know,
- 34:42everyone to at least be able to try doing blending.
- 34:46Like, you know, not everyone will be a good tea blender or a
- 34:50good chashi, but you know, everyone needs at least needs to
- 34:53have the opportunity to learn and try to become one.
- 34:57And I think that's very important and very healthy for,
- 34:59you know, this whole specialty matcha movement.
- 35:03So one of our recent podcast recordings, we talked about the
- 35:06concept of currency of trust. And something that we got to
- 35:10towards the end of the episode is that, you know, Japan has a
- 35:13very unique culture in many, many respects.
- 35:16But one of the more important ones is the respect for
- 35:20authority and the respect for like people who are at some
- 35:25level higher status than you because of age or because of
- 35:28some other factor. And that, you know, we were
- 35:31mostly talking think about currency of trust in can I trust
- 35:34you that this is labeled correctly or comes from this
- 35:37particular region, etc. But also the currency of trust
- 35:40sometimes means not asking questions.
- 35:43If one of the best clients in Kyoto walks into Leola and comes
- 35:48in and goes to the main manager and asks to know what are the
- 35:53cultivars in this hatsu mukashi this season, the there could be
- 35:58an implication that he does not trust the judgement or that he
- 36:03is somehow questioning the quality of that land or what
- 36:07went into it or the work that these people are doing.
- 36:10So the people who work retail tend to be extremely defensive.
- 36:14If you walk into Poto or Maruchi Kalyanayan or any of these
- 36:19traditional blunt houses, or even go to the live streams that
- 36:22some of these producers have, you'll see in the comments
- 36:25people will ask like, oh, where is this tea from?
- 36:27And they'll say, oh, it's proprietary, we can't tell you,
- 36:30blah, blah, blah. But it seems that that is like
- 36:32one level below the chashi. But I think part of this is the
- 36:36culture of asking questions is a culture of being skeptical.
- 36:40And in the West we see this is healthy and educational
- 36:43understanding it. But in the East, in particular
- 36:46in Japan, it might be perceived as questioning someone's
- 36:50judgement. Like, who are you to ask me
- 36:52that? But I'm Achashi or I, I, you
- 36:55know, we're a 300 year old company.
- 36:57Like, why do you need to know what these cultivars are?
- 37:00I'm not saying that's what they're thinking, but I bet a
- 37:03large part of the reason why this culture has lasted for so
- 37:06long, it's because it would be incredibly culturally
- 37:10inappropriate to start asking so many questions and poking and
- 37:13prodding to learning about matcha as a prod product.
- 37:16What do you think about that, Sam?
- 37:18Yeah. It's possible.
- 37:20And I think that the intention of asking those questions really
- 37:25matter in communication of intentions is a very important,
- 37:31I would say art of Japanese culture demonstrating tensions
- 37:36and you know, like clarifying your curiosity before asking
- 37:39those questions. I mean, we, we end up getting a
- 37:42lot of honest and informative answers after we show that to a
- 37:46lot of people in Japan that we interact with.
- 37:52Yeah, I agree. Yeah, attention matters.
- 37:54And I think historically, why, you know, this part of their job
- 37:59or the knowledge of tea blending or the knowledge about tea
- 38:03cultivars so marginalized, I think it has really something to
- 38:07do with how farming as a practice or as a social class
- 38:11being perceived in the Japanese society historically.
- 38:15It's never something that is part of the, you know, literati
- 38:19or the higher class people's topic.
- 38:22Like they don't care about what the farmers are doing in the
- 38:25field. You know, they care about, you
- 38:27know, the artistic theme of the tea gathering.
- 38:30They care about, you know, the very interesting Song dynasty or
- 38:33Tang dynasty ceramic they end up procuring.
- 38:36They care about, you know, the, the guests within the same tea
- 38:40gathering and, you know, the information or the decision that
- 38:44that end up getting made on that day.
- 38:47So they they probably don't necessarily care about, you
- 38:50know, if this tea is, you know, being made of a very specific
- 38:55cultivation farming method that, that, that, that, you know, the
- 38:58farmers are doing. Yeah, I certainly agree.
- 39:02And I think maybe that just most Japanese consumers just don't
- 39:05care and in general, and it wasn't until recently that more
- 39:09foreigners got interested in matcha.
- 39:11And when you come in as a foreigner and you start
- 39:14bombarding these salespeople or retail people, more people that
- 39:17you're trying to source from with all of the questions,
- 39:20sometimes intention is incredibly difficult to
- 39:23communicate and it can feel like you're questioning someone's
- 39:26judgement or trying to replicate a blend or who knows what.
- 39:29Yeah, Because, you know, like I feel like there is some, I would
- 39:33say a misalignment of a lot of criteria that people care about
- 39:37in terms of if there are like a quality indicator, like the idea
- 39:42of something being single origin, the idea of something
- 39:45being truly, truly like a local. Like this is T from Wuji, not
- 39:51just Wuji tea. I think it's like a very new
- 39:54thing, a new concept, a new thing that people care about and
- 39:57the new thing that people perceive as a quality indicator.
- 40:00Like historically, people who makes matcha in Japan do not
- 40:05care about all these things. And the consumers do know that
- 40:09the consumers do not care about it.
- 40:11Like it's really like all of these concept I would say.
- 40:15Probably is largely driven by people that that that lays
- 40:19outside of Japan. Like all of these single origin,
- 40:21single Kosovar, this tawat concept came from wine, came
- 40:24from coffee. Like, yeah.
- 40:26So like when, when you kind of ask if the tea is whether or not
- 40:31just single origin, whether or not a single cultivar, sometimes
- 40:35you can sense a level of frustration from these tea
- 40:38farmers or these, you know, tea, tea tea houses that you know,
- 40:43wow, this guy Jean is trying to use this to kind of access the
- 40:47quality of my tea. But like, you know, like that's
- 40:51that has never been a quality indicator for Japanese matcha
- 40:54historical. That's that's actually an
- 40:57invention from a non Japanese person.
- 41:00Indeed, indeed. So actually, I have a very good
- 41:03segue off of this is that, you know, something that we're going
- 41:07to talk about more and more in season 4 is that Uji Cha Uji
- 41:10Macha does not come from Uji. At least most of it does not
- 41:14even though Uji is the historic growing region.
- 41:16And like during the Edo period, for example, and there were the
- 41:19only people who are really given the license to do shaded
- 41:22cultivation at all. But anything that comes from
- 41:25Narashige or Mia prefectures in Kyoto Prefecture can be called
- 41:29Ujimacha. And so long as the shiage
- 41:31processing is done in anywhere in Kyoto Prefecture, it is
- 41:36allowed to fall under the Ujimacha trademark.
- 41:40I apologize for all those words, but this is actually indeed very
- 41:43complicated when you try to work backwards, like what in the
- 41:48world is Ujimacha? So one of our sourcing
- 41:51strategies is this is interesting.
- 41:54Let's just go to Nara, Shige and Nye, buy the tea before it
- 41:57enters Kyoto Prefecture. Maybe we can get a better price
- 42:01for it because it's not being blended.
- 42:03It's no longer than magically turned into ujimacha.
- 42:07So we were asking him like, is this a good strategy, something
- 42:11that we should be doing? And he told us something very
- 42:13interesting. And RSI gay guy and me, I don't
- 42:16have a regional auction system, but they can participate in the
- 42:21national auction. But it's a very High Commission
- 42:23auction, unlike these other prefectural auctions that take
- 42:27place, which it's much more economically beneficial.
- 42:29So it's actually much more profitable for tea farmers in
- 42:33these regions to have direct contracts with Kyoto based
- 42:37companies, which means that there's almost no leftover
- 42:41material that can be labeled as specifically coming from Nara,
- 42:45MIE or Shiga prefectures. There are some producers that do
- 42:49it and you'll we'll find a few handfuls, but it's not any
- 42:52larger meaningful volume. It literally all just gets
- 42:56turned into ujimacha because it gets sold to the Kyoto pre the
- 43:01Kyoto companies wholesalers. So there's a lot of actual
- 43:04structural barriers here, but there's a very interesting piece
- 43:07of industry gossip that it is basically nearly impossible to
- 43:11source tension at any meaningful volume from those prefectures.
- 43:14Yeah, Ryan, you said something very memorable as we were
- 43:17walking in the city of Wuji. Is that use?
- 43:21He said that this is the place produce the words masha and none
- 43:25of it. Produce all of the world's Uji
- 43:27matcha and almost none of it on Uji Main Street.
- 43:30There's only two produce on the direct Main Street, only two of
- 43:35the stalls are from actual tea farmers that actually grow
- 43:37things that are actually grown within Uji or the rest of it,
- 43:41you know who knows big roll of the dice.
- 43:43And then of course, slightly off the street, you have Harishi
- 43:45Shimei and of course they're local as well.
- 43:48So within Uji City, you know, there's there are others, but on
- 43:52the Main Street there's just those two, which is actually a
- 43:55really sad story, very sad. And we also learned from a wuji
- 43:59tea farmer segwayed from the topic of the conversation with
- 44:04our chashi friend. But there's no auction system
- 44:07within Wuji. So all of these Wuji tea,
- 44:11whether or not is truly from Wuji or from all of the other,
- 44:14you know, cities and areas surrounding Wuji, is that they
- 44:17also get contracted away to all of these large tea shops or tea
- 44:23brands. Well, not even contracted, just
- 44:25like historically have worked with.
- 44:27Yeah, commissioned, contracted, but there's no actual contract
- 44:31being signed. It's all like very, very shady.
- 44:34Like, like, of course you know, the farmers can say no to these
- 44:37tea shops, but you know the moment they say no, they are
- 44:40getting boycott and blacklist by the entire local agricultural
- 44:45system. Yeah, apparently then if they
- 44:47say no to the wholesalers, then if they try to take it to
- 44:50auction, it's a little unclear what the ramifications were, but
- 44:55it didn't sound like that was a realistic option.
- 44:57They wanted to take it to the Kyoto Prefecture auction because
- 45:02this year there were some very strange dynamics where because
- 45:05the wholesalers, which largely consist of these tashi, set the
- 45:09price for that material, a lot of it's hand picked tazumi tea
- 45:14from Uji city proper was selling for less than machine cut
- 45:21Wazooka tea, you know? Can go through the local
- 45:26auction. System that goes through the
- 45:27auction system because it's a little bit more of a free market
- 45:30and you know, people can can buy it for what it's worth.
- 45:34Yeah, but the defense of, you know, the reason why this system
- 45:38exists is that historically, especially when matcha was
- 45:42largely being ignored by the society and is was a indeed
- 45:48dying art. In the past it was all these tea
- 45:52companies who, you know, consistently paying all these
- 45:54farmers. Is a lifeline.
- 45:56Yeah, to to get them to survive to these days.
- 45:59And still to this day into the future, like if the whole market
- 46:02slumps and it gets so small, they will have a buyer.
- 46:06Even though we're in a bull market, it's fine and it looks
- 46:09like a horrible injustice. But in a market that's
- 46:12declining, it's actually a pretty interesting saving grace,
- 46:16particularly because these traditional blend houses have
- 46:19such strong tide to the tea ceremony schools and to other
- 46:23very important cultural institutions where they're
- 46:26probably always going to have buyers.
- 46:29Even as Japan ages and it's a shrinking population and fewer
- 46:33and fewer tea ceremony practitioners are doing anything
- 46:36active, it's still probably enough to support the
- 46:40traditional, the matcha industry, especially the stuff,
- 46:42the best stuff that's coming out of Uji proper.
- 46:45So that was super interesting. So it's nearly impossible to
- 46:49source anything from Nara or she got not impossible, just like
- 46:53not a whole lot of volume in the same way that you can get out of
- 46:57other places. So we also learned about a
- 46:59relatively untalked about thing we we don't talk much about on
- 47:05this podcast, but Amacha has to come from Tensha, which is
- 47:08shaded, unrolled, deemed green tea.
- 47:12It was like the shortest definition and D stemmed and
- 47:15deveined. That's about the shortest
- 47:16definition that I can come up with.
- 47:18But there's also something called moga cha and it's
- 47:21primarily used for green tea powder.
- 47:23But apparently more and more and more moga cha is getting slicked
- 47:27and blended into different bunch of products.
- 47:29And it's basically you process tensha the same way you would
- 47:33process sencha with the same equipment.
- 47:35You just turn off the rolling equipment so it heats it, it
- 47:39steams it, it dries it, but it doesn't go through the rolling
- 47:42step where you're breaking open the cell walls, extracting those
- 47:46flavors, getting it ready for loosely fruit tea.
- 47:48Instead, all the flavors, quote UN quote, locked inside the cell
- 47:51walls doesn't go through the rolling.
- 47:53And we've heard that Mogacha has increased its production by 5
- 48:00year on year, both to support the quote UN quote green tea
- 48:04powder, but also some of this moga Moga cha does come from
- 48:08shaded cultivation and gets blended in.
- 48:10We've heard a few percent here, a few percent there into Matcha,
- 48:15different matcha products. Yeah, these are well, I would
- 48:18say indeed inferior products or inferior fillers for for matcha.
- 48:23And you're not not too confused with another tea called Toshi
- 48:28Cha, which are, you know, flavorless or like very
- 48:32uncharacteristic, but actual tension that, you know,
- 48:35historically Tashi uses to increase the volume of a tan cha
- 48:40batch. So we also asked our Tashi
- 48:42friend, so like if you want to indeed blend mogacha with a
- 48:46batch of tan cha but still maintain the quality standard,
- 48:49what is like kind of the portion that you would?
- 48:52Like how much can you get away with or with like medium quality
- 48:55tan cha? Like say you have some like very
- 48:58normal tan cha, it's a really good ones.
- 49:00Like what's the threshold? Yeah.
- 49:03So apparently 30% mortgage, 17% like good Tancha is something
- 49:09that they will consider a safe. Yeah, 3070 or like mediocre
- 49:13Tancha, Yeah and 70% good, which is actually way less than I
- 49:18thought does like you know, it produces can produce a lot more
- 49:22volume, but I actually would have assumed something closer to
- 49:245050, but it doesn't seem to be the case.
- 49:28So we actually end up being given back of Mogasha from a
- 49:33unnamed donor of such interesting sample and we are
- 49:37going to meld it and see how exactly.
- 49:40It looks and smells good. It does.
- 49:42Doesn't look like tensha but it's very dark and the leaves
- 49:47are slightly folded over on each other and very choppy.
- 49:51But it smells good and it looks good.
- 49:53Yeah, yeah. And it's actually not as veiny
- 49:55as I expect. It looks totally millable on an
- 49:59issue so it's not so woody or full of stems or veins, so it's
- 50:02actually very promising. Very promising.
- 50:05Because it's much easier because you know, if you don't have
- 50:07access to a tensha processing facility, you can make this
- 50:11stuff on a Sencha processing facility, which really decreases
- 50:17the amount of infrastructure and speed and timing that you need
- 50:21to help fulfill this boom. Because if it tastes good,
- 50:24honestly, who cares? Especially in like most
- 50:28consumption scenarios. No, Ryan, it's not true matcha.
- 50:32It's a Gray area, kind of, but a lot of quote UN quote matcha
- 50:35even we've heard from the traditional players uses a lot.
- 50:39They use a lot of Mogachar's filler.
- 50:41Yeah, well, honestly, like from a color and you know, smell
- 50:45standpoint, it's better than most of the ten shot that we saw
- 50:49in China. Like those tea were actually,
- 50:51you know, like even Japanese cultivars and being processed by
- 50:54Japanese machine. But you know, honestly, this
- 50:57Mogachar looks very promising. But you know, we need to taste
- 51:00it before we make any real judgments.
- 51:02Something that I asked about too is steaming time because you
- 51:05hear that like part of the art and the science of making
- 51:08tension production, steaming is so important.
- 51:10And like the idea of like a deep steamed or Fukumushi tensha, no
- 51:14one really talks about it. I mean, apparently like it's
- 51:16really you have seconds like like a single second can like
- 51:20change the optimization that and the flavor transformation in
- 51:25that leaf. And I asked, like, does anyone
- 51:27do deep? Does anyone like do deep
- 51:31steaming or like slightly more than deep steaming?
- 51:34And what happens to the taste? And he said that the taste
- 51:38actually improves to some extent, but it destroys the
- 51:43color. It turns yellow and brown and
- 51:45you don't get that bright green. And he also says that it
- 51:48destroys a lot of like inherent characteristics.
- 51:51Yeah, the complexity of the leaf.
- 51:53Like the the flavors of a, you know, Uji, Hikari or an asaki
- 51:58will kind of all be mellowed out.
- 51:59It's like over roasting coffee, right?
- 52:01It just all starts to taste like roasted coffee after a while.
- 52:05Apparently same thing with deep steamed tea to some extent.
- 52:08But he also told us that yame in general does steam slightly
- 52:12longer and give it a lighter toast.
- 52:14And actually it's pretty interesting.
- 52:15Abby are the matcha scientists did some color imagery on a
- 52:19bunch of Fuji samples and a bunch of Yame samples and
- 52:22quantum quantifiably and was able to conclude that the Yarmi
- 52:25samples are much less green. And this is part of the reason
- 52:29why. But it actually doesn't mean
- 52:31that they're lower quality. This quality thing with color is
- 52:34very complicated because it can be driven by the cultivar
- 52:38because some colors are naturally lighter and darker
- 52:40than others, like brilliant green versus deep green.
- 52:44How long it was steamed for, any type of roasty, toasty step that
- 52:48it went through, how old the tea was after it was.
- 52:53I mean, even the water temperature that you can prepare
- 52:56it with can change the color. It's there's a lot of factors.
- 52:59Yeah, and also how fine the powder gets milk.
- 53:01Oh. That too, yeah.
- 53:04Yeah, it's very interesting. And honestly, you know, like if
- 53:07it doesn't impact the taste of the matcha, like I would much
- 53:11rather have a better tasting matcha versus a greener matcha.
- 53:15Absolutely. So we have two more points
- 53:17before we conclude this. Actually, this ended up being
- 53:19quite a long episode, much longer than we were
- 53:23anticipating. But we asked him about what he
- 53:26thinks of this matcha boom and the word that he used was
- 53:30nervous, which was a bit of an unexpected answer and an
- 53:34expected answer at the same time.
- 53:36It's better than the other answer that we got scared, like
- 53:39scary. So yeah, I don't know, like from
- 53:42a business standpoint, you can definitely sense there's some
- 53:46level of excitement coming from him because like.
- 53:50If you have money and capital to put to work right now and
- 53:55infrastructure, you really win. Yeah, yeah, Especially for
- 53:59Itashi, like him that's so vertically integrated from
- 54:04production to processing to manufacturing to selling.
- 54:08It's like it really like fuels a lot of his ideas and
- 54:13innovations. And this Tashi is also
- 54:15relatively young, so, you know, it's actually such a refreshing
- 54:20experience talking to him and, you know, like, and meeting him
- 54:23and just knowing his existence. Yes, actually makes us not
- 54:28nervous. It makes us extremely
- 54:30optimistic. But yes.
- 54:32Wow, finally. So not only can we learn, but we
- 54:36can start understanding why to a lot of the questions we've had
- 54:39for a long time. But the reason he says he's
- 54:41nervous is that many small tea companies within Japan, a lot of
- 54:44the mom and pop tea companies cannot buy tensha at all.
- 54:47So most of the tensha are all silent auctions.
- 54:51And we learned recently that one of the best chashis in Japan, a
- 54:54different one, but one of the best.
- 54:56And I believe there are 10 Don Chashi bid on something like 2
- 55:00tons of tension at the auctions. And it's a silent auction.
- 55:04So you don't know if you're the highest bid and you can't
- 55:07respond to give a higher bid. And only walked out of that
- 55:10auction with like 200 kilograms. That's the price to quality
- 55:14ratio for the the people who are deep in the industry like it,
- 55:18it's selling for way more than like it's worth, at least in
- 55:22their minds. That's how I interpret that.
- 55:25I think it's a fair interpretation.
- 55:27If you're not well capitalized, good luck.
- 55:30Like from the cash flow consideration, it's a it's, it's
- 55:33not good and it's not cool. And there's a lot of companies
- 55:36going out of business. And actually some of the reason
- 55:38we're able to source tension at the moment and we're pushing
- 55:41further and further outside of the areas that we're familiar
- 55:44with to people who have much smaller tea companies.
- 55:47It's because there's huge lines for shiage processing.
- 55:51And also for milling. And for milling, so a lot of
- 55:54there's actually, we didn't realize this, there's a lot of
- 55:57tea companies in Japan that service their local communities
- 56:00and they buy tensha at auction or a slightly less refined
- 56:06version of tensha at auction. They send it off for shiage
- 56:09processing to 1 vendor and then they get it back and then they
- 56:13send it off for milling to a different vendor and they sell
- 56:16it to their local community. And that's their part of the
- 56:18value chain. It's the retails, the tea store
- 56:21part of the value chain. I mean, they're able to
- 56:23participate in that auction system to get access to the
- 56:25commodity products, but the transformation is fundamentally
- 56:29being done by other people. The problem is, is that everyone
- 56:33needs those, the capacity of that infrastructure right now.
- 56:36And there's huge lines. So like we've met some people
- 56:39that are just sitting on massive amounts of 10 job that they
- 56:43can't sell or do anything with because they have no capacity to
- 56:47mail it. And we've heard about these
- 56:48people, but now that we finally met them, we're hoping that our
- 56:51mill can be a great way for these people to get some cash
- 56:55flow and to purchase their ten job and then mill it locally
- 56:58wherever they are and to serve it fresh.
- 57:01It's better for them, it's better for the consumer, and
- 57:04it's good for anyone who wants to add value on top, such as
- 57:08fresh milling. So we really encourage any
- 57:10listener who has a tea brand to go go deep and try to find these
- 57:14people because it gives them a lifeline to get the cash flow
- 57:18that they need. Because, I mean, you know, when
- 57:20you're buying things at auction, you buy it and then you're
- 57:22sitting in on that inventory. And if you aren't able to do the
- 57:25transformations that you need, such as shiage and milling to
- 57:29sell it, you're stuck. And a lot of places are just
- 57:32declaring bankruptcy more they're retiring early, which is
- 57:35very, very sad. And even, like you know, giving
- 57:38them some name recognition too could be very powerful.
- 57:41Yeah, totally. So as long term hold the phone,
- 57:44let's talk about the single most exciting, interesting optimistic
- 57:48thing that we learned about from this Joshi that we did save for
- 57:52the very, very end, which might be a little controversial.
- 57:55Yes, the elephant in the room, Ryan, it's China.
- 57:58China, Chinese macho, Chinese tension.
- 58:01Well, it's no secret that all of these Japanese company has, you
- 58:06know, they have been importing materials from China or even
- 58:09doing processing and packaging locally inside China to create,
- 58:14you know, matcha or quote UN quote Chinese matcha.
- 58:17But we have learned that, you know, there are some products or
- 58:21some quality of these tension in China are actually getting good.
- 58:26So we personally haven't really experienced that like we have
- 58:29been, you know, on and off going for sourcings also in China to
- 58:33try to find find out if there are indeed good tension or
- 58:36matcha being made here. But we haven't had luck of, you
- 58:41know, getting access to those materials.
- 58:43But you know, according to our Tashi friends, those materials
- 58:47actually exist. And they taste good, and they
- 58:50think that the quality is good. And they work with the producers
- 58:53in China continuously and giving their, like, seal of approval
- 58:58before they use it, which is super interesting and way more
- 59:02pragmatic than we ever would have thought.
- 59:04And, you know, they framed it as like, yeah, it's like really
- 59:07good raw material. Like this is like great
- 59:10Yabukita. And the quality is getting
- 59:12pretty good. It's getting better every year.
- 59:14And, you know, it's processed on Japanese processing equipment.
- 59:19And we're working closely with the farmers to make sure that
- 59:21this Yaga is good enough for certain types of milling and
- 59:24that there's good color homogeneity and that they're
- 59:27doing all of the practices that they should be doing.
- 59:30And in fact, what he also told us is that some of the gardens
- 59:34that actually pesticides and fertilizer free.
- 59:36So the material coming from those places probably not taste
- 59:41as good as Japanese material, but they are like EO compliant.
- 59:45A lot of it's being done for compliance reasons, yes, very
- 59:49hard to get like true compliant matcha coming out of Japan.
- 59:53So like all of this growth explosion in particularly in the
- 59:58US and the EU needs compliant matcha so.
- 1:00:01So like a lot of these Japanese company over companies over the
- 1:00:04past 15 years have set up subsidiaries in China.
- 1:00:08But the majority of the matcha production happening here in
- 1:00:11China where we're recording this right now is specifically for
- 1:00:15those export markets. And it is actively taking
- 1:00:18pressure off of the system in Japan.
- 1:00:20Like just the structural problems that we were just
- 1:00:22talking about 10 minutes ago where you have people who have
- 1:00:26had family businesses for decades, who's the local tea
- 1:00:30house, local matcha guy can't like get access to, you know,
- 1:00:35shiage equipment and refining equipment, right?
- 1:00:38Like sourcing this in China is actively taking pressure off the
- 1:00:41system because it can be done in places like in other places.
- 1:00:46Not just China, like from this Korea trip that we recently have
- 1:00:51conducted, we also learned that there are great matchas being
- 1:00:53produced over there too. So like this whole system stress
- 1:00:58is actually pretty dire because we also learned from our Tashi
- 1:01:02friend is that a lot of these other tea production in Japan
- 1:01:07are suffering because a lot of people are switching to making
- 1:01:11tansha and there is not enough of tea like sencha being made
- 1:01:15till the point that a lot of these Sentra companies and
- 1:01:18Sentra beverage companies are having trouble sourcing Sentra
- 1:01:22materials coming from Japan. So like even like if anyone has
- 1:01:25been to Japan, you'll see all this green tea and PET plastic
- 1:01:30bottles everywhere and like every vending machine.
- 1:01:33Like it's very likely that this much a shortage is going to
- 1:01:37cause price increases for these PET teas like Itoan and the ones
- 1:01:42from Santori and Asahi and all the companies that do this a
- 1:01:46Coca-Cola Japan. It's very possible that all of
- 1:01:49these green teas get more and more expensive because of the
- 1:01:52macho shortage. Just a wild secondary
- 1:01:55implication that you probably wouldn't have thought about.
- 1:01:57IA ¥150, Ito and Sancho will be gone from Lawson's.
- 1:02:03No, it'll just be ¥200 or something.
- 1:02:06Yeah, the price tag will be different.
- 1:02:08So it's a lot of secondary and tertiary implications.
- 1:02:11But, you know, he was saying that, yeah, I think in five
- 1:02:14years almost all players in Japan will be importing Chinese
- 1:02:18Tanja or Chinese material just because there's not enough to
- 1:02:22meet demand. Yeah.
- 1:02:23And a lot of active investment. Yeah, this is a very hopeful
- 1:02:26future. I would say like because from my
- 1:02:29personal experience, you know, like it's really difficult to
- 1:02:32source anything that that's quality in China at the moment.
- 1:02:36And part of the reason I think is, you know, there's really
- 1:02:40very little specialty consumers within China that you know, push
- 1:02:45the manufacturer of Tensha to higher quality.
- 1:02:48But this outside force might eventually being cascade down
- 1:02:52back to here and it's very hopeful.
- 1:02:54Yeah. So in the future, we might look
- 1:02:56to partner with local people or Commission people to start doing
- 1:03:00some more interesting things and see like what what can be
- 1:03:03created both as Japanese cultivars or local cultivars, so
- 1:03:06long as they're processed, you know, on the proper potential
- 1:03:09processing equipment. There's nothing wrong with doing
- 1:03:12this in other places. So it really actually all comes
- 1:03:14down to intention because what I think people are fearful of is
- 1:03:18that people take like this random green tea grown in Korea
- 1:03:22or China or even places like India or Sri Lanka and they're
- 1:03:26or Thailand and trying to pass it off as matcha.
- 1:03:29Or like trying to blend into Japanese material and called a
- 1:03:33Japanese matcha. But like, if that's not your
- 1:03:36intention, who cares? Like whether or not we call it
- 1:03:39matcha, I don't. I personally, I don't really
- 1:03:42have a stake in this battle, but wouldn't it be cool to see
- 1:03:44shaded cultivation into something that you could turn
- 1:03:47into a powder that can be whisked?
- 1:03:49It's delicious. That is basically matcha that
- 1:03:52you know comes from these other places.
- 1:03:54Yeah, I think transparency is very important on this topic.
- 1:03:59You know, like people. I think the stigma really comes
- 1:04:02from people trying to hide the origin of all these materials.
- 1:04:05Or it's adulteration. Yeah.
- 1:04:07So you know like in the future we are definitely going to label
- 1:04:11the origin of everything that we are going to feature.
- 1:04:14And I think that's like essentially very beneficial like
- 1:04:18who I would personally want to learn the flavor difference
- 1:04:22coming from all the. Wouldn't you like to learn a
- 1:04:25Yabukita from Shizuoka versus Wazuka in Kyoto Prefecture
- 1:04:31versus Jeju Island versus Jujiang in China?
- 1:04:36Versus Darjeeling. Like talk about like super cool
- 1:04:41to understand the expressions that that cultivar can give you,
- 1:04:44right? You'll probably start to learn
- 1:04:46more than the chashi's you know who are who aren't importing all
- 1:04:51of this material and they really lead to some very unique and
- 1:04:54interesting expressions. Some of the Yabukita that we had
- 1:04:57from Jeju really tastes nothing like we've had in Japan,
- 1:05:00specifically not in umami bomb type way.
- 1:05:03And, and, and honestly tastes pretty good.
- 1:05:06It's like not bitter, very low bitterness.
- 1:05:09I'm a stringency. Very, very interesting floral
- 1:05:11notes that I have never experienced in, you know,
- 1:05:14Yapakita being grown in Japan. Yeah, so the the future is
- 1:05:17bright when it comes to this sort of thing.
- 1:05:19And I cannot tell you and express how happy I was to hear
- 1:05:24how pragmatic both he was and other people were talking to
- 1:05:28about the ability of other places, other country to
- 1:05:31contributing to the supply so that this matcha boom doesn't
- 1:05:35turn into a matcha bust because it gets way, way, way too
- 1:05:39expensive for the same thing. Quality is not increasing,
- 1:05:42prices increasing. You're going to have churn of
- 1:05:44consumers and then you have a dead and dying industry that's
- 1:05:47literally turning stale because nothing is changing about the
- 1:05:51products other than the price and which is not a future that
- 1:05:54anyone wants to see. So I think it's incredibly
- 1:05:57valuable creative for everybody. That makes us very, very
- 1:06:00optimistic. Yeah, like special.
- 1:06:02This whole specialty movement is really a discovery journey of
- 1:06:06people doing interesting things. And I think it's very healthy to
- 1:06:11give everyone the liberty of making things that you know has
- 1:06:15good intention. Absolutely.
- 1:06:17And make things that are delicious, which really is the
- 1:06:19most important thing at the end of the day, right?
- 1:06:21It's the hedonic pleasure you get from this thing.
- 1:06:24Yeah, delicious will be a very, pretty good outcome.
- 1:06:26But, you know, all these innovations and experiments
- 1:06:29might lead to different, you know, degrees of expression
- 1:06:33based on, you know, the But you know, let's, let's accept and
- 1:06:36embrace the possibility of all of these, you know, experiments
- 1:06:41or new developments or innovations.
- 1:06:43And there's going to be a lot of crap.
- 1:06:45There's going to be a lot of failure.
- 1:06:46Perhaps the first Chinese matcha that you drink is horrible,
- 1:06:50right? That's OK.
- 1:06:51That is not representative of what's going on in the entire
- 1:06:55country. I mean you could easily buy a
- 1:06:57random matcha powder from Japan and have the same experience.
- 1:07:00But, but I, I think what would be a step forward is that the
- 1:07:06first Chinese matcha that you drink, whether or not it tastes
- 1:07:09good or bad, has the label of China or Zhejiang or a specific
- 1:07:14region with the cultivar on it. It's not something that's Fuji
- 1:07:19matcha quote UN quote China. Which to add to the Uji drama
- 1:07:23for some foresight, the Uji Macha trademark also exists
- 1:07:29within China that is owned by Japanese which can be licensed
- 1:07:33out locally. So you can technically have Fuji
- 1:07:37Macha in mainland Chinese market sold as Uji Macha and or
- 1:07:42exported as Uji Macha because the trademark allows for it at
- 1:07:47least domestically within mainland China.
- 1:07:50Yeah, it's it's a lot of shenanigans.
- 1:07:53It really pinning down and understanding the complications
- 1:07:56of what in the world is Uji Macha.
- 1:07:58You think it's a simple question.
- 1:08:00It's not. It's much more complicated than
- 1:08:03like what is ceremonial grade, which is, you know, there's one
- 1:08:07sentence meaningless, but actually a little more
- 1:08:10complicated. So some form of intention.
- 1:08:12But uji matcha, it really just shows a lot of money to be made.
- 1:08:18It's like the deeper you dig into that story, not as pure as
- 1:08:23you might think, despite what the good marketing and framing
- 1:08:27that a lot of people try to put around it.
- 1:08:30But well, tea actually coming from Uji is, you know, like
- 1:08:34incredible. But very hard to find too.
- 1:08:36Yes, if you can find actual uchi grown mancha and it's not even
- 1:08:41to like like to hate on the other regions that participate
- 1:08:45in tea that gets labeled as uchi mancha, right?
- 1:08:48Like it's, you know, the best case interpretation is that it's
- 1:08:52a style of processing. But that this is really a
- 1:08:55concept that we want to break in the future.
- 1:08:57It's just so dumb. You don't learn anything from
- 1:09:00calling it that. It's really dumb.
- 1:09:01And also like, honestly, there could be and there will be
- 1:09:07there. And I really hope there will be
- 1:09:10like other Wuji's in the future popping up in other regions,
- 1:09:14right? And this is really a concept or
- 1:09:16a mentality that we want to break in the future.
- 1:09:20There could be literally like 5 or 10 or 15 UGI worthy regions,
- 1:09:27fantastic producers doing interesting things, absolutely
- 1:09:31Kyoto, Nara, et cetera. Or even outside of Japan, like
- 1:09:35we right now kind of seeing Yame gaining the new a kind of like a
- 1:09:40high quality production status. But you know, it's totally
- 1:09:44possible that all these other tools in different corners of
- 1:09:47the world can produce very high quality, very tasty matcha.
- 1:09:52Absolutely. But this whole current system is
- 1:09:55not setting up in that way to allow this to happen.
- 1:09:58Like, it's more like setting up a very, very bloodthirsty Leech
- 1:10:05in the center of this whole system, sucking the blood from
- 1:10:08all corners to create something that can be sold for a higher
- 1:10:12price. Yeah, but for the status quo,
- 1:10:14you know, and also especially after talking to all these
- 1:10:17farmers. Yeah, both in and out of Uji.
- 1:10:20It's really less pure than you think.
- 1:10:22Yeah. Despite its staunchest
- 1:10:23defenders. And Uji should definitely still
- 1:10:26exist in the future and it should be cherished and should
- 1:10:29be protected, but just not in this way.
- 1:10:32Yes, where you can literally like go 10 kilometers over the
- 1:10:37border, set up a random shiage factory and you instantly have
- 1:10:41uji matcha so long as it's like your raw materials so much from
- 1:10:45the four prefectures that gets ridiculous.
- 1:10:49Not to mention all the stuff that really shouldn't be going
- 1:10:51into it outside of those 4 prefectures, which is also a
- 1:10:54topic of a later podcast. Which you might ask, why does
- 1:10:58this all matter? I think part of the specialty
- 1:11:00movement is understanding where the decisions for a certain
- 1:11:03flavors get made, where there's culture formation and where
- 1:11:07everyone skilled person's hands have touched this product in
- 1:11:12some meaningful way to get it all the way to the consumers.
- 1:11:16And just this reductive idea of Ujicha destroys it, which I
- 1:11:19think is a real shame for those farmers and other places or
- 1:11:24these producers and other places, these people adding
- 1:11:27value from all over. Yeah, we actually recorded the
- 1:11:29episode right after we got out of Fuji, and it was.
- 1:11:33So bad and so pessimistic, we're not going to release.
- 1:11:38But after talking to our Chashi friend, wow, it's like a fresh
- 1:11:42of new breeze. It's like it really changed our
- 1:11:46kind of mentality or anticipation of what's coming
- 1:11:50next. And right now, we are very
- 1:11:52hopeful, yeah. Indeed.
- 1:11:54Well, I think it's a perfect place to stop.
- 1:11:56Thank you so much for listening. You enjoyed this.
- 1:11:58Please consider sharing it with a friend.
- 1:12:00If you have any interesting perspectives that are other than
- 1:12:03our own, please do reach out. We'd love to make this like a
- 1:12:05community discussion and to have you on the show potentially.
- 1:12:10We're always searching for people with new and unique
- 1:12:12opinions for Season 4 and. We'll see you in the future.