Latest / Skin Anarchy / E.326: Episode 2 of RéVive Masterclass Series

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E.326: Episode 2 of RéVive Masterclass Series · Skin Anarchy

• 0:12
  SPEAKER_01: Hi guys, welcome back to Skin Care Anarchy.
• 0:15
  SPEAKER_01: This is our second episode in the three-part series with um world-renowned skin expert, skin health expert Dr.
• 0:24
  SPEAKER_01: Brown.
• 0:24
  SPEAKER_01: I am so excited because today we are here with Dr.
• 0:28
  SPEAKER_01: Brown as usual, but we're also accompanied by his colleague, Adila Crown.
• 0:35
  SPEAKER_01: So welcome back, Dr.
• 0:36
  SPEAKER_01: Brown, and welcome Adila to the show.
• 0:39
  SPEAKER_01: I'm so excited that we're doing the second part of that series.
• 0:43
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
• 0:45
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
• 0:46
  SPEAKER_01: Wonderful to be here.
• 0:47
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, no, it's lovely to host you both.
• 0:49
  SPEAKER_01: And I have, I'm so excited about this episode because it is a little bit more focused on, you know, just really the whole idea of aging and just a lot more specific uh questions.
• 1:02
  SPEAKER_01: So I want to start off um by asking both of you.
• 1:05
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, Dr.
• 1:06
  SPEAKER_01: Brown, I would love for you to address this first, which is um what are the hallmarks of aging and how does it really first start to show on our skin?
• 1:15
  SPEAKER_00: Well, you know, aging obviously is multifactorial, but there's more to it than just simple lines, wrinkles, and sags that um we can all sort of point to and know what they are.
• 1:26
  SPEAKER_00: Volume loss is an important part.
• 1:28
  SPEAKER_00: And actually, a lot of people, by the time they're in their late 20s, some of their first signs of aging are maybe fine lines around their eyelids because it's thin skin and it's animated a lot.
• 1:39
  SPEAKER_00: But also you get enough volume loss there that you actually see a demarcation between the lower lid and the cheek in the trough where the uh orbital rim is.
• 1:49
  SPEAKER_00: So it's a more esoteric form of aging, meaning volume loss, but certainly it's something that we as plastic surgeons are are uh very attuned to.
• 1:59
  SPEAKER_01: That's very interesting.
• 2:00
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I know I I always wonder because uh I know that with men, a lot of times, you know, they'll complain about like crows' feet or you know, whatnot.
• 2:08
  SPEAKER_01: But Adila, I would also love for you to uh kind of give us your feedback as well of uh what you've seen as the first signs of aging.
• 2:16
  SPEAKER_02: Well, I agree, of course.
• 2:18
  SPEAKER_02: Volume loss is a major contributor, but then I also find that often as a practitioner, I find there's a lack of understanding in choosing the correct skincare from a very young age or prescribing the right kind of regime or skincare for yourself, because we are bombarded with so much information, and most of that information is actually misleading, confusing.
• 2:44
  SPEAKER_02: And so so many people are actually using the wrong kind of uh products, actives, or they are misusing actives and not quite understanding ingredients, the basic ingredients which actually give you that supple, youthful glow from a very young age.
• 3:01
  SPEAKER_02: So I think the understanding of skin health is paramount from a very young age to ensure that you don't really, you know, go down that slippery slope of volume loss, which then leads to so many other issues that Dr.
• 3:15
  SPEAKER_02: Brown mentioned.
• 3:16
  SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
• 3:17
  SPEAKER_01: No, I can completely understand that.
• 3:19
  SPEAKER_01: And and this preventative um, you know, approach is really why I love the brand, I love the brand, Dr.
• 3:25
  SPEAKER_01: Brown, that you've created.
• 3:27
  SPEAKER_01: Uh you know, review is really, really interesting to me in terms of the approach because um, you know, because the ingredients, and I would love for us to kind of talk about that here is the you know, the ingredients and the approach um when it comes to skincare products, um, specifically with the brand and and what we should be using to manage these uh first signs of aging.
• 3:51
  SPEAKER_00: Well, you know, uh Ravee came to be because as a plastic surgeon, I'm not a dermatologist.
• 3:58
  SPEAKER_00: Um one of the things you notice is even though you we would surgically correct some of the signs of aging, puffy lower lids, that sort of thing, um if the skin itself is not uh rehabilitated in some way, then it's it's not the best result.
• 4:17
  SPEAKER_00: So obviously we're all gonna age, we're all gonna get lines and wrinkles, we can't stop it.
• 4:22
  SPEAKER_00: We can you know ameliorate it with skin proper skin care and staying out of the sun.
• 4:27
  SPEAKER_00: But to me, one of the most important signs of health and getting older is a dewy glow.
• 4:34
  SPEAKER_00: Because one of the things that happens as we do age, since the cells are turning over such so much more slowly, uh, we tend to get that dull lackluster skin uh as we age.
• 4:46
  SPEAKER_00: And so that wonderful dewy glow of youth is gone.
• 4:49
  SPEAKER_00: And I think at least with Rave in the early days and even still, that was the thing that I um was aiming for to return the skin to the that wonderful sort of youthful dewy glow.
• 5:02
  SPEAKER_01: Right.
• 5:02
  SPEAKER_01: And that makes sense because you're absolutely right.
• 5:05
  SPEAKER_01: You know, that dullness, even you know, I notice like from day to day, you know, it changes as well.
• 5:11
  SPEAKER_01: And um, you know, I can definitely see what you mean with it with aging.
• 5:14
  SPEAKER_01: It can it's something that we will start to notice a lot more.
• 5:18
  SPEAKER_01: Um now, when one thing I want to ask you is what are some of the products that Reviv has that are very much um geared towards this exactly, you know, in terms of just brightening the skin, keeping that glow alive, and you know, um kind of maintaining it, I guess.
• 5:35
  SPEAKER_00: Well, our very first product is still our number one selling product.
• 5:38
  SPEAKER_00: It's called moisturizing renewal cream.
• 5:40
  SPEAKER_00: And it's been around 25 years, so it's withstood the test of time, and it does have an acid in it.
• 5:46
  SPEAKER_00: And the purpose of the acid was in those days and even still was not so much the acid itself, which inherently alone can give benefits by getting rid of the dead stratum corneum to a degree without stripping it, uh, because that can, I call it a wrinkle creator, and Adela, you can comment on this, but in and of itself, it's if it gets too thick, it can age the skin just by uh resting on the surface.
• 6:10
  SPEAKER_00: But what it also does mostly is allow the peptide that we use, which was originally a growth factor, it's now the active portion of the uh the growth factor, a peptide of about 10 or 12 amino acids in length, get to the cells that it needs to get to to promote renewal, because only the basal cells of the epidermis divide.
• 6:32
  SPEAKER_00: And so you want the active ingredient to at least get to that point.
• 6:36
  SPEAKER_00: And by the acid removing the dead outer layer, it allows the uh peptide to get where it needs to go more readily.
• 6:45
  SPEAKER_02: And I feel that I'd like to elaborate on that because with management of first signs of aging, I think a lot of people don't understand that we are using our facial muscles very dynamically every day.
• 6:58
  SPEAKER_02: And that causes wear and tear, which of course will affect the skin ultimately because it'll lead to aging, because your skin is almost like shrink wrapped on top of your muscles.
• 7:07
  SPEAKER_02: So it very much mimics what's happening in underneath.
• 7:11
  SPEAKER_02: So if there is that wear and tear, if there is that muscle crease, then the the volume loss will mean that the skin is just not able to really bounce back.
• 7:21
  SPEAKER_02: So it very just visually starts to show the signs of aging.
• 7:27
  SPEAKER_02: Another problem is that people don't realize glycation is a huge issue.
• 7:31
  SPEAKER_02: There is the sun damage, there is the genetic issue, there is the collagen loss, but glycation is literally where consuming sugar is is accessing or triggering an internal reaction of the sugar molecules, which adhere to collagen, they adhere to the elastin proteins, and which normally keeps our skin firm and supple, it starts to really cause, it leads to a breakdown of that.
• 7:57
  SPEAKER_02: So I think with skin care, especially serums, I I must self-confess, serum junky, I think serums are fantastic.
• 8:04
  SPEAKER_02: And Review does have a few serums up in uh in its toolbox, and one of them says the targeted filler.
• 8:12
  SPEAKER_02: And that targets certain muscles that you can actually maybe your frown lines, maybe your crow's feet, or your smile lines.
• 8:19
  SPEAKER_02: So you can actually be very targeted and smart with your serum and your skincare, and you can start targeting those signs of aging from a very young age.
• 8:28
  SPEAKER_00: I would like to comment on that.
• 8:29
  SPEAKER_00: That's great that you brought that up, Adela, because I love the idea of too much sugar.
• 8:34
  SPEAKER_00: You know, what happens if you get a lot of uh, you know, un or processed sugar, so you get an immediate insulin spike, um, it glycates the proteins in the body.
• 8:46
  SPEAKER_00: It means it puts sugar molecules on them.
• 8:48
  SPEAKER_00: And I use the analogy, you know, enzymes sort of run all the chemical reactions in the body and all of those that keep us young and do all kinds of other things.
• 8:57
  SPEAKER_00: But if you can think of those enzymes, they're proteins, I liken it to if you take a glass rod and pull it across a rug, it goes very smoothly.
• 9:06
  SPEAKER_00: But if you wrap velcro around it, it won't go.
• 9:10
  SPEAKER_00: And that's kind of what happens when you glycate enzymes.
• 9:12
  SPEAKER_00: It's like putting velcro on them.
• 9:14
  SPEAKER_00: So everything just gets sort of gummed up and doesn't uh perform as well, including all the chemical biochemical reactions that we have as as a young person that basically keep us young.
• 9:26
  SPEAKER_00: I think that's a great point.
• 9:28
  SPEAKER_00: So I just wanted to add to that.
• 9:30
  SPEAKER_02: And that's true because the glycation almost looks like orange peel on the skin, doesn't it?
• 9:35
  SPEAKER_02: It it there's that textural imperfection that then for the rest of our lives we struggle with.
• 9:41
  SPEAKER_02: So I think understanding it from a very young age can help with the prevention.
• 9:45
  SPEAKER_00: Absolutely.
• 9:46
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, absolutely.
• 9:47
  SPEAKER_01: I think that, you know, also you guys, it's not just about, you know, even skin.
• 9:53
  SPEAKER_01: I think skin is one of the organs that just shows so easily what our body is going through.
• 9:59
  SPEAKER_01: And I think this idea of lacation is it's you know from a more systemic standpoint, it's something that we our body is going through.
• 10:09
  SPEAKER_01: And you're, you know, for everyone listening, we're experiencing this throughout all of our organs.
• 10:14
  SPEAKER_01: Our skin is showing it to us, you know.
• 10:18
  SPEAKER_00: I think you're exactly right because you know, I'm fair and from the south and getting to be older, and I got a lot of sun.
• 10:25
  SPEAKER_00: So when I see sunspots, I think, well, you know, this is just a bellwether sign of what's going on in the rest of my body.
• 10:32
  SPEAKER_00: If I'm getting sunspots on my skin, then what's my heart doing?
• 10:34
  SPEAKER_00: What are my blood vessels doing?
• 10:36
  SPEAKER_00: So you're right, it's everything.
• 10:37
  SPEAKER_00: It's not just skin, but skin can be a good, you know, sort of um harbinger of what's happening.
• 10:44
  SPEAKER_01: Exactly.
• 10:44
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, Dr.
• 10:45
  SPEAKER_01: Brown.
• 10:46
  SPEAKER_01: And that's exactly, you know, the message that I think that consumers really need to understand because, you know, what we talk about skin health.
• 10:54
  SPEAKER_01: And I think uh what makes for me as a cons even as a consumer, you know, just ignoring the medical side is that, you know, this idea of prevention, right?
• 11:03
  SPEAKER_01: And I and I want to really talk about this preventative uh side of skin health, because I think Review takes a wonderful approach to it.
• 11:12
  SPEAKER_01: You know, the the line overall is designed obviously to target almost any kind of skin concern.
• 11:19
  SPEAKER_01: But when it comes to prevention, um, what are some of the things that we can really do in terms of management of skin, you know, in terms of losing collagen, the elasticity, the the fullness.
• 11:32
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, what are what are some things that we can really, really focus on um and kind of put the word out there for consumers to think about, you know, as we're approaching the products that we buy and and what we do, you know, on a daily basis?
• 11:46
  SPEAKER_00: Well, you know, I certainly a dealer can expound on this much more than me, but I'd be very simply, I think one of the most important anti-aging things anybody can have, whether it's Reviv or not, is you know, sun protection.
• 12:00
  SPEAKER_00: Because there's no question that um the sun that we get when we're teenagers, the damage stays with us throughout life.
• 12:08
  SPEAKER_00: And obviously it's cumulative.
• 12:10
  SPEAKER_00: You can assuage it to a degree, but you can't completely get rid of it.
• 12:13
  SPEAKER_00: And a beauty editor asked me, you know, uh a few months ago what I thought the future of skincare was and all that, and I'm sure she expected a sexy answer like, you know, crisp's gene uh spices, all of that kind of stuff.
• 12:29
  SPEAKER_00: But but, you know, I basically said protection because I think, you know, we're living in a time when all you have to do is pick up a newspaper and look out the window.
• 12:38
  SPEAKER_00: The climate is definitely changing, and with it is going to come a lot more assault on the skin and the body in general for that reason.
• 12:46
  SPEAKER_00: So I think it's gonna be very important um in people that are much younger than me in the future decades to uh protect and try to prevent.
• 12:54
  SPEAKER_00: I don't know how you feel, Adilova.
• 12:56
  SPEAKER_02: I I totally agree because I feel that topical prevention is is key because prevention is all about persistence, and I always say persistent beats resistance, and so many people aren't really sure that it's so fundamental to understand the importance of the ingredients.
• 13:16
  SPEAKER_02: And yes, SPF is key.
• 13:17
  SPEAKER_02: When someone asks me about, well, what's the holy grail of anti-aging?
• 13:21
  SPEAKER_02: And again, just like with you, they expect a very exotic or exactly a sexy answer.
• 13:28
  SPEAKER_02: But actually, the the the simplest product which promotes anti-aging benefits is SPF 50.
• 13:34
  SPEAKER_02: And I suppose if you apply that from a very young age on your face, on your neck, on your decollottage, on your shoulders, the back of your hands, you are going to find that you're going to be creating such a preventative response where your skin will not be, you know, feeling the benefits of the assault of the environment and of the sun.
• 13:54
  SPEAKER_02: And uh it's going to really just be its best for years and years to come.
• 13:59
  SPEAKER_02: And it's such a good habit to develop, and it's just such a simple habit.
• 14:05
  SPEAKER_02: But other and there are other factors as well.
• 14:07
  SPEAKER_02: I feel that it's important to understand how amazing vitamin C can be.
• 14:12
  SPEAKER_02: You know, the antioxidative benefits of things like ferulic acid and vitamin C and adding that to your daily skincare is so crucial because, yes, there are many strategies, they're aimed at preventing photoaging, but uh photoaging is not just sunspots.
• 14:31
  SPEAKER_02: And I think we need to understand that sun protection is not just stopping you from developing, say, skin cancer or sunspots.
• 14:39
  SPEAKER_02: It's there are so many other issues.
• 14:41
  SPEAKER_02: There's the breakdown of collagen, there's the um oxidative stress, the environmental stress on the skin.
• 14:47
  SPEAKER_02: There are so many other, it's like a domino effect.
• 14:50
  SPEAKER_02: So the moment sun touches your skin and it's it's managed to break down your collagen, it has such a profound effect, long-term effect on your skin.
• 14:58
  SPEAKER_02: So it goes well beyond just you developing a few sunspots as a telltale sign, of course.
• 15:04
  SPEAKER_02: So I think the moment we start to understand that level of prevention, I think we'll be in a much smarter, uh skin smart place, really.
• 15:14
  SPEAKER_00: Exactly.
• 15:15
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, you know, we live, we have to have oxy oxygen to for oxidative phosphorylation and respiration.
• 15:21
  SPEAKER_00: Our cells have to have it, but it's a double-edged sword because we basically rust over a lifetime, our bodies do, because with each breath.
• 15:29
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, the onslaught of oxygen and a free radical, which is just an oxygen molecule with one um sort of unstable electron, has to find some place to bind.
• 15:39
  SPEAKER_00: And where it binds, it can cause trouble and destruction.
• 15:43
  SPEAKER_00: So, you know, we talk about antioxidants all the time, and you're right in deal with vitamin C.
• 15:48
  SPEAKER_00: We have another product called Defon C, which has superoxide bismutase in it, which is a very strong antioxidant.
• 15:55
  SPEAKER_00: It's the same antioxidant that white blood cells have in there to combat bacteria and viruses in our bodies.
• 16:02
  SPEAKER_00: So I think, and those things, I think those free radicals, because of the climate instability, will only increase as time goes on.
• 16:10
  SPEAKER_00: So I couldn't agree more.
• 16:12
  SPEAKER_01: No, I love that you guys mentioned that.
• 16:14
  SPEAKER_01: You know, Adelaide, I think you made a really, really great point there with the vitamin C as well.
• 16:19
  SPEAKER_01: And Dr.
• 16:19
  SPEAKER_01: Brown, with the superoxide dismutase, I I love that you brought that up because I kid you not, you know, I want to tell you guys a little story that when I first got into skincare and I was first starting to review like products and stuff, people thought I was crazy because I was buying things that said, you know, this contains superoxide dismutase.
• 16:40
  SPEAKER_01: And I was like, I'm not crazy, it's just science.
• 16:43
  SPEAKER_01: You know, yeah.
• 16:45
  SPEAKER_00: Right, right.
• 16:46
  SPEAKER_00: That's great.
• 16:47
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, no, it it's a very, very important point that you made.
• 16:51
  SPEAKER_01: And I I think that, you know, um, with the vitamin C, Adila, I would love for you to actually elaborate a little bit more because, you know, uh, I think with vitamin C, people have this completely uh misconstrued notion that, you know, vitamin C is this brightening agent and it's supposed to do all this, but it's like, you know, everyone just throws the whole idea of collagen uh synthesis out the window and how it works as a cofactor in that and you know the rebuilding effects of vitamin C.
• 17:17
  SPEAKER_01: And so I would love for you to talk about that a little bit more, if you could, because the consumers, I think, don't really understand the role of these ingredients, right?
• 17:25
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, we we just throw them around in this in this world of marketing, in this world of uh just using words that are generated, you know, through science and picking them out of scientific papers, but no one's really, you know, discussing the use and the real reason why they're there, you know?
• 17:41
  SPEAKER_01: Correct.
• 17:41
  SPEAKER_01: You're absolutely right.
• 17:42
  SPEAKER_02: Like the word free radicals.
• 17:44
  SPEAKER_02: I challenge anyone walking down the street to actually help me understand what free radicals is, or just give me an explanation.
• 17:50
  SPEAKER_02: And you'd be surprised.
• 17:52
  SPEAKER_02: Now nine out of ten people will not be able to, maybe, maybe ten out of ten, actually, depends who you ask, won't be able to tell you what free radicals are.
• 18:00
  SPEAKER_02: And actually, they're formed from things like sun, pollution, stress, smoking, damage of the DNA of the cell, uh, it can lead to premature aging.
• 18:11
  SPEAKER_02: And of course, adding that vitamin C to your skincare will help fight these free radicals because it keeps your skin cells healthy.
• 18:19
  SPEAKER_02: And the people need to understand it's not just for that glow, that boost, that brightening, instant brightening effect.
• 18:27
  SPEAKER_02: It's more of a longer-term process which helps to boost your collagen production.
• 18:32
  SPEAKER_02: It reverses the cell damage, it helps, therefore, as a result, to keep your skin looking firmer and younger.
• 18:39
  SPEAKER_02: So, yes, vitamin C goes well beyond just, you know, lightening some of your sunspots or just brightening your skin and giving you that dewy glow.
• 18:47
  SPEAKER_02: It actually does so much more for your skin.
• 18:50
  SPEAKER_02: And serums are the smartest way because they are more concentrated.
• 18:54
  SPEAKER_02: And that's where concentration comes in as well.
• 18:56
  SPEAKER_02: You need to understand percentages.
• 18:59
  SPEAKER_02: People tend to go for say higher percentage, or in our brains, I think the way we are wired, we think the higher the percentage, the better the results.
• 19:07
  SPEAKER_02: It's a very unstable molecule.
• 19:09
  SPEAKER_02: It can actually increase the risk of irritation and inflammation.
• 19:14
  SPEAKER_02: So in the case of uh vitamin C, same with acids as well, higher percentage doesn't equate to faster and better results.
• 19:24
  SPEAKER_02: So I think it's about finding that gold Goldilocks zone, that sweet spot of like five to seven and a half percent or up to 10%, and build it up.
• 19:34
  SPEAKER_02: And I think more and more companies need to be a little bit more transparent when it comes to percentages, because I think it'll it'll help the consumers understand that you know, higher doesn't always mean better, but it can have so many other profound effects.
• 19:49
  SPEAKER_00: And you know, vitamin C, I think it's just to elaborate on that, is so important for structural reasons too.
• 19:56
  SPEAKER_00: You know, um collagen is in the skin, in the bone, any ligaments, tendons, wherever, is a dynamic structure.
• 20:04
  SPEAKER_00: You think of it as being static, but it's constantly being built up, broken down, built up, broken down.
• 20:10
  SPEAKER_00: And if you don't have vitamin C, you can't build it up.
• 20:13
  SPEAKER_00: So that's why sailors from the old world, when they would come to the new world, if they didn't have citrus or vitamin C sources on the boat, their old scars would open up because they are dynamic structures.
• 20:27
  SPEAKER_00: And what vitamin C does, it's if you think of collagen, it's a triple helix, it's a big, huge molecule.
• 20:35
  SPEAKER_00: And if it doesn't have internal struts like girders on a bridge, it just becomes floppy and can't do any structural uh function.
• 20:44
  SPEAKER_00: But what vitamin C does, it gives these internal struts to that so that it makes the collagen molecule um more structural and can firm skin and all of those sorts of things.
• 20:56
  SPEAKER_00: So I do agree.
• 20:57
  SPEAKER_00: Plus, it we have a product called Claritate, and we worked probably the hardest we've ever worked on a product because as um you know Adela mentioned, it's a very unstable molecule.
• 21:09
  SPEAKER_00: And if it's not delivered to the skin in its active state, there's no use in putting it there.
• 21:14
  SPEAKER_00: And it if it comes in contact with air or water before or sunlight before it actually is put on the skin, it it um oxidizes and is ineffective.
• 21:26
  SPEAKER_00: So uh yeah.
• 21:29
  SPEAKER_02: I'd just like to add one more thing regarding oxidation.
• 21:32
  SPEAKER_02: That pure visumin C, uh of course it's unstable, so it may end up oxidizing and turning brown or orange over time, which means oxidization also means it loses its efficacy.
• 21:42
  SPEAKER_02: And marketing companies always associate one color with vitamin C, don't they?
• 21:48
  SPEAKER_02: And what is that color?
• 21:51
  SPEAKER_02: Correct.
• 21:52
  SPEAKER_02: And orange is actually the color that vitamin C turns to when it oxidizes, when it loses its efficacy.
• 21:59
  SPEAKER_02: In other words, Marketing companies are actually associating the color of expired or gone off or ineffective vitamin C to vitamin C.
• 22:09
  SPEAKER_02: So how ironic is that?
• 22:11
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I love that.
• 22:12
  SPEAKER_00: That's true.
• 22:12
  SPEAKER_00: You're right.
• 22:13
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, no, that's an actually an excellent, excellent point, Adila.
• 22:17
  SPEAKER_01: And I think it's so funny to me that, you know, um, I actually had a friend of mine a very long time ago, and she was like, Well, look how, you know, look how orange and yellow my vitamin C is.
• 22:27
  SPEAKER_01: It's just like, you know, it looked like I'm like, oh my gosh, I wish you could just understand the chemistry of what has happened to this serum, because this is completely inactive.
• 22:39
  SPEAKER_01: It will do nothing for your skin.
• 22:41
  SPEAKER_01: It's completely useless.
• 22:42
  SPEAKER_01: You know, I had to explain that to her.
• 22:44
  SPEAKER_01: And I think it's it's very important for consumers to understand these things.
• 22:47
  SPEAKER_01: And unfortunately, we live in a world now where, you know, business majors and marketing are, you know, they're they're the ones that people call experts, but that's the whole idea of my podcast is to have, you know, just really people such as yourselves on so that you can explain this because consumers are still gravitating towards this this visual, you know, concept of this is what it should look like because it has this in it, you know.
• 23:13
  SPEAKER_01: And for example, with collagen, Dr.
• 23:15
  SPEAKER_01: Brown, you made such a great and excellent point there with this cross-linking that occurs in collagen um as we're creating it.
• 23:22
  SPEAKER_01: And and I to this day try to convince people that you guys need to stop eating, you know, gummies that have collagen in it because your body is literally gonna just digest it.
• 23:36
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 23:37
  SPEAKER_00: No, that's stressful.
• 23:39
  unknown: Yeah.
• 23:39
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, Acta, that's I feel so strongly about that.
• 23:42
  SPEAKER_02: That's a maybe a very long conversation for another time because I have a huge issue with ingestible and supplement collagens and uh how little research is there to back up the marketing claims which goes with it.
• 23:56
  SPEAKER_02: And people don't understand that all of all of our vital organs are made up of collagen.
• 24:01
  SPEAKER_02: So when you consume these gummies or supplements or powdered or liquid collagens, where do you think your body's priority is?
• 24:08
  SPEAKER_02: It needs to keep you alive.
• 24:10
  SPEAKER_02: Do you think it's going to send it to your skin?
• 24:12
  SPEAKER_02: And by the way, we our whole body is covered in skin.
• 24:14
  SPEAKER_02: So what's the guarantee?
• 24:16
  SPEAKER_02: It's going to your eyes, your lips, it could be going to your butt, it could be going to your elbows, you know.
• 24:22
  SPEAKER_02: So maybe not even that.
• 24:24
  SPEAKER_02: So I think it's it's a longer topic from and for another time because it's it's it's quite controversial.
• 24:30
  SPEAKER_00: And it's broken down.
• 24:31
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, you know, it's it's a huge molecule.
• 24:33
  SPEAKER_00: The same is true when you put collagen on the skin, it's a massive molecule.
• 24:36
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, it doesn't do a lot.
• 24:38
  SPEAKER_00: So, you know, I agree.
• 24:40
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, absolutely.
• 24:41
  SPEAKER_01: And you know, okay, so I I actually want to talk about um, you know, just go back a little bit because we had talked about the uh the preventative measures we can take, and and you know, you you had both really um talked about the the uh the protection side, which is SPF.
• 24:56
  SPEAKER_01: And I I want to just say, you know, on air that my favorite and the sunscreen I use the most is Reviv's uh SPF 50.
• 25:05
  SPEAKER_01: It is absolutely hands down the gold standard for me.
• 25:09
  SPEAKER_01: I actually even mentioned it as one of the only SPF products in my 2021 topics because of just how well it works and more importantly, how it sits on the skin.
• 25:19
  SPEAKER_01: And I would love for um, you know, Dr.
• 25:22
  SPEAKER_01: Brown and Dila, both of you, to comment on this idea of SPF and you know, um just how much we need.
• 25:28
  SPEAKER_01: Should we be increasing the amount of SPF we have in our products as we age?
• 25:33
  SPEAKER_01: Um, just kind of talk us through that.
• 25:36
  SPEAKER_00: Adila, why don't you take that?
• 25:38
  SPEAKER_02: Well, you're absolutely right about that SPF, because me being a woman of color, I found that every SPF I tried would leave me with a white cast or would leave me looking a little grey, because we do have to apply the right amount, which is at least half a teaspoon worth for the face and neck, more so if you're covering your shoulders and arms.
• 26:00
  SPEAKER_02: And if you apply that much amount of a product, it's inevitably going to leave you with that white cast.
• 26:06
  SPEAKER_02: One of the biggest problems as a facialist and as a practitioner that I come across is oh, I don't like applying SPF because it breaks me out.
• 26:14
  SPEAKER_02: I have suffered the same thing.
• 26:15
  SPEAKER_02: So when I started using the relief uh SPF, I was skeptical, I have to admit, in the beginning, like I am with every single SPF.
• 26:24
  SPEAKER_02: First of all, it didn't leave me with a white cast, it didn't leave me oily, it didn't leave me greasy, it didn't make me break out.
• 26:30
  SPEAKER_02: So far, so good.
• 26:31
  SPEAKER_02: Another thing was it kind of became a primer for for makeup for the days that I needed to apply makeup.
• 26:38
  SPEAKER_02: So it's it's a great product, and I think we need to talk about it more because with SPF, it you need to understand that just because you increase the percentage, it doesn't really increase the coverage or the protection level.
• 26:54
  SPEAKER_02: It only increases it by a small percent.
• 26:56
  SPEAKER_02: So it's always good to start with SPF 50, really.
• 27:00
  SPEAKER_00: You know, that that product that you mentioned, Ecta, is interesting because it has a lot of treatment uh qualities, not just um SPF.
• 27:10
  SPEAKER_00: And I think that's one reason people like it so well.
• 27:12
  SPEAKER_02: Correct, because it goes well beyond that.
• 27:14
  SPEAKER_02: And like I said, I I no longer just use it as an SPF anymore.
• 27:18
  SPEAKER_02: I I I have so many other uses for it.
• 27:20
  SPEAKER_02: And I think maybe on your website you need to start calling it a great primer for makeup as well, because I think it just gives such a beautiful uh base as well.
• 27:30
  SPEAKER_02: Because it and yes, of course, the the happy side effect is it protects you.
• 27:35
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, no, I can definitely second that ideal about the about the being a woman of color and having such a hard time finding SPF.
• 27:45
  SPEAKER_01: And Dr.
• 27:45
  SPEAKER_01: Brown, I cannot give you enough, you know, accolades and kudos for this product because I kid you not, the first time since the first time I tried it, I just fell in love.
• 27:56
  SPEAKER_01: I was like, this is an entire thank you.
• 27:58
  SPEAKER_01: This is this is something that it's not only SPF, but it's the experience of this product.
• 28:04
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, for everyone listening, if you have not checked it out, you really, really need to buy this product.
• 28:09
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, it's because one, absolutely everything you said, Adelaide, completely 100% can back you up on that.
• 28:16
  SPEAKER_01: Um, you know, just as from the consumer side of things, but also more importantly, um, you know, it I think for the industry, it's important to understand that people are gravitating away from using SPF products as much as we should be because of how it feels on your skin.
• 28:32
  SPEAKER_01: And, you know, long story short, a lot of the products out there if for from other brands are very, very heavy.
• 28:39
  SPEAKER_01: They're very, you know, they bog you down, they don't make it easy for makeup to sit on top.
• 28:44
  SPEAKER_01: And this product is just doing all of those things that we want it to do, plus, it's just letting you work with everything else in a very beautiful way.
• 28:52
  SPEAKER_01: So it's truly the formulation and the formula is just it's uh, I mean, really gold standard here.
• 28:58
  SPEAKER_02: So, you know, going back to the thank you.
• 29:03
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, uh, honestly, I I second that because I feel that texture is everything and texture puts people off.
• 29:11
  SPEAKER_02: So the moment you come across a great SPF, honestly, you have to shout from the rooftops because it's very, very rare in the industry.
• 29:18
  SPEAKER_02: And going back to the SPF filters, I mean, 50 filters about 98% of UBB race, whilst say something like SPF 30 will filter out 96.7.
• 29:28
  SPEAKER_02: So actually, there isn't such a huge difference, but I would still recommend start with SPF 50.
• 29:34
  SPEAKER_00: I agree.
• 29:35
  SPEAKER_01: I love that.
• 29:36
  SPEAKER_01: I love that.
• 29:37
  SPEAKER_01: Yep, start high, why not?
• 29:38
  SPEAKER_00: You know, even when you're young, you know, some people think, well, you're younger, you can start lower.
• 29:42
  SPEAKER_00: But I think, you know, as I said, sun exposure, sun damage is cumulative.
• 29:46
  SPEAKER_00: You and we all live on the planet and we're all gonna get it.
• 29:49
  SPEAKER_00: But the sooner you protect against that the the more it will help you as far as effects for aging, I think.
• 29:56
  SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
• 29:57
  SPEAKER_01: No, that makes total sense.
• 29:59
  SPEAKER_01: And Dr.
• 29:59
  SPEAKER_01: Brown, I I honestly request you please make that product for like all over the body.
• 30:05
  unknown: Okay.
• 30:06
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, Dr.
• 30:07
  SPEAKER_02: Brown, can we also do it in a spray form?
• 30:09
  SPEAKER_02: Because I was just reading an article that for those who wear makeup, and not a lot of people actually apply it or reapply it every two to three hours, which they should.
• 30:18
  SPEAKER_02: So the moment you have a spray form, it just makes it so much more easier.
• 30:22
  SPEAKER_02: I feel that's a product.
• 30:24
  SPEAKER_00: You know, you just said and you're in the trenches, you're right with the people you know, Adela.
• 30:29
  SPEAKER_00: You said consistency makes a big difference.
• 30:31
  SPEAKER_00: You think that that's important compared to a cream, meaning a spray?
• 30:35
  SPEAKER_02: I feel that it's just so much more easy.
• 30:37
  SPEAKER_02: Of course, you'll need a couple of layers.
• 30:39
  SPEAKER_02: So you can't just do tss and that's it.
• 30:41
  SPEAKER_02: You'll have to actually do one layer, wait for 30 seconds, do another layer.
• 30:45
  SPEAKER_02: But how easy is it that you don't have to smear your makeup, you don't have to remove it, you don't have to, you know, you all you have to do is close your eyes and carry it in your handbag because that way it's easy to remember to reapply.
• 30:56
  SPEAKER_02: So it you can make it portable, you can make it uh available to use on top of makeup without having to smear your makeup.
• 31:04
  SPEAKER_02: And that is such a good educational point as well to actually reinforce into your consumers that it is absolutely essential to reapply, especially on a sunny day when you're exposed to sun.
• 31:15
  SPEAKER_00: Right.
• 31:16
  SPEAKER_00: Right.
• 31:17
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, and not to mention, you know, Adil, you made a great point too, is that, you know, so many of us, you know, so many consumers are mothers or parents, right?
• 31:25
  SPEAKER_01: And you know, if you if you're outside and you're especially with the summer months coming, you know, uh as we're approaching them, like you know, you you have children, and it's so hard to get children to apply sunscreen.
• 31:36
  SPEAKER_02: But Ata, don't you think that it is available for children?
• 31:40
  SPEAKER_02: So spray forms are available for children.
• 31:42
  SPEAKER_02: Why don't they make it available for adults?
• 31:45
  SPEAKER_02: And I think our favorite brands should maybe do a spray form anyway.
• 31:50
  SPEAKER_02: So I think, yes, I need to write a long letter to Rave, and I don't need to highlight the benefits.
• 31:56
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, you know, you you that's where we get our ideas, is because it comes from, you know, what we don't have and what the clients want and need, and people like yourself, Adela.
• 32:07
  SPEAKER_00: So thank you.
• 32:08
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, no, absolutely, Dr.
• 32:10
  SPEAKER_01: Brown.
• 32:10
  SPEAKER_01: I think this is, I mean, I completely second everything Adila said, and we really would love to see that 50 in all forms.
• 32:18
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, honestly, I will I'll be your first customer.
• 32:20
  SPEAKER_01: I'll buy it.
• 32:22
  SPEAKER_01: All right, you're all I'll make sure I have it in every single bag I can.
• 32:26
  SPEAKER_00: Oh, great, okay.
• 32:28
  unknown: All right.
• 32:29
  SPEAKER_01: Well, I want to round out the episode.
• 32:31
  SPEAKER_01: And Adila, this is really for you because I know you are such an experienced player in this industry in terms of just really working with people, and you've seen so many different, you know, kinds of skin issues and stuff.
• 32:45
  SPEAKER_01: And I would love for you to tell us, you know, um, how do you cater your facial treatments for your clients, especially when they have aging skin?
• 32:52
  SPEAKER_01: You know, what are some of the things that um you always have in mind when you're approaching a client?
• 32:57
  SPEAKER_02: So, Acta, a long time ago, I ditched that protocol-led one size fits all approach.
• 33:04
  SPEAKER_02: I started my career working with dermatologists, and you know, no offense, Dr.
• 33:08
  SPEAKER_02: Brown, but you know that it's very protocol-led, right?
• 33:11
  SPEAKER_02: So where um the the happy outcome of working with dermatologists was I learned every device, every product, every ingredient under the sun.
• 33:21
  SPEAKER_02: It was the best training that I had, but the downside was I had to stick to a program, a protocol, uh, whether it was time, whether it was the number of products I could use, and I started to deviate from that, which meant that I was kind of very early on developing my own method.
• 33:37
  SPEAKER_02: And so when I started working on film, the pace and and the demand of skincare outcomes changed in a sense that I could no longer do a treatment and then wait for like, you know, a two-day downtime.
• 33:51
  SPEAKER_02: I didn't have the luxury of a 48-hour downtime, even because I needed to make sure that my actor looks amazing by 5 a.m.
• 34:00
  SPEAKER_02: the next morning when they sit in the makeup chair in the makeup trailer.
• 34:03
  SPEAKER_02: So it's the such a fast-paced environment that I had to be more flexible with skincare.
• 34:08
  SPEAKER_02: I had to be more inventive, I had to be more, you know, I had to think outside the box.
• 34:13
  SPEAKER_02: And that's when I realized that the moment you did the protocol and you make the treatment more personalized, you start to understand skincare.
• 34:21
  SPEAKER_02: I you almost kind of become, well, in my case, I became a skin chef.
• 34:25
  SPEAKER_02: So I had all these beautiful ingredients.
• 34:27
  SPEAKER_02: I had say, uh, if I have a range of uh products from Reviv and I have a bunch of amazing uh skin tech devices, I I just create skin magic.
• 34:38
  SPEAKER_02: I I play with them, I I, you know, let the skin talk to me.
• 34:42
  SPEAKER_02: And that communication between your fingers, the product and the skin is absolutely vital because that's the only time the skin will talk to you and it'll teach you so many things.
• 34:52
  SPEAKER_01: Well, this is why we have really, you know, we stand behind you being a skin engineer, Adila, truly.
• 34:59
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, you're truly, you know, it's it's that of an engineer.
• 35:03
  SPEAKER_01: It's to it's it's in the spirit of good science and good, you know, innovation.
• 35:07
  SPEAKER_01: And that's really, you know, it's a beautiful way to explain how we should all be approaching skin is, you know, look at your skin, understand it, talk to it, you know, listen, just listen to what it needs.
• 35:20
  SPEAKER_01: And I think if more people just started doing that and following the advice you just gave, I think we would really have a shift in consumerism, you know, in terms of what we're buying, why we're buying it.
• 35:30
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, you know what?
• 35:31
  SPEAKER_02: I never thought I would find myself saying this.
• 35:34
  SPEAKER_02: I'm kind of slightly grateful for the COVID pandemic because it forced us all to become our own facialists for a time being at home.
• 35:43
  SPEAKER_02: That meant that we were, after a very long time, opening up bathroom cabinets and looking at exactly what products we have, and we were playing more with it.
• 35:51
  SPEAKER_02: We were actually having fun with it, or we were having more of a conversation with our skins because before it was more of a, oh, I have three products in the morning, I'm going to layer them on and I'm going to go to work.
• 36:02
  SPEAKER_02: Whereas, you know, it kind of gave us that time to get reacquainted with skincare, with products, with devices and tools.
• 36:08
  SPEAKER_02: And I think we shouldn't really lose what we have learned during these years, and we should actually just build and adapt on that.
• 36:16
  SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
• 36:17
  SPEAKER_01: And you know, I just want to say that on that concept of, you know, having fun and just really exploring for everyone listening.
• 36:24
  SPEAKER_01: You guys really, if you go to the website for Revive, I mean, it is truly, I mean, for me, I'm a skin nerd.
• 36:31
  SPEAKER_01: I won't lie.
• 36:32
  SPEAKER_01: I have a great time just exploring the website.
• 36:34
  SPEAKER_01: You can, you know, really read about the products and you can really try to understand, you know, where this the whole story, right?
• 36:43
  SPEAKER_01: And that's where Dr.
• 36:44
  SPEAKER_01: Brown, I just want to give you just so much thanks and kudos because you truly are such a pioneer.
• 36:51
  SPEAKER_01: And the way that you've you've designed this line and the way you've brought products to us, um, you know, in a way that it's accessible, it's out there for people to just kind of play with and understand.
• 37:02
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, wow, you know, I just hats off, sir.
• 37:05
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, you've done such a good thank you so much.
• 37:07
  SPEAKER_01: Yes.
• 37:08
  SPEAKER_01: Um, and everyone listening.
• 37:10
  SPEAKER_01: Uh, this was the second episode of a three-part series.
• 37:12
  SPEAKER_01: So make sure you tune in for the third part.
• 37:15
  SPEAKER_01: This is gonna be, you know, even better the next time.
• 37:18
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, it just keeps getting better and better.
• 37:20
  SPEAKER_01: So thank you so much to both of you, Adila and Dr.
• 37:22
  SPEAKER_01: Brown.
• 37:23
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you so much for your time.
• 37:24
  SPEAKER_01: This has been such an honor to host both of you.
• 37:26
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
• 37:27
  SPEAKER_02: My pleasure.
• 37:27
  SPEAKER_02: I was taking notes, um, Dr.
• 37:29
  SPEAKER_02: Brown.
• 37:29
  SPEAKER_02: So I've like picked up so many new ways of you know helping people understand and and the lingo that you use.
• 37:36
  SPEAKER_02: I absolutely love that because you know it's it's not really losing people, but it's actually breaking it down to, well, kind of the object, really.
• 37:46
  SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
• 37:47
  SPEAKER_00: All right, it was a pleasure.
• 37:49
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, yes, thank you so much.
• 37:51
  SPEAKER_00: Bye.
• 37:52
  SPEAKER_01: Bye.
• 37:54
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• 37:57
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• 38:02
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• 39:01
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