Latest / Wander the World with Pippa Hudson / Wander the World: Choosing between Africa’s two Great Migrations

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Wander the World: Choosing between Africa’s two Great Migrations · Wander the World with Pippa Hudson

• 0:00
  Speaker 1: It is time to wander the world, and today we
• 0:02
  Speaker 1: are taking you on one of Africa's great adventures to
• 0:06
  Speaker 1: experience the Great Migration. We've already heard earlier in the
• 0:09
  Speaker 1: show from one or two you about your most memorable
• 0:11
  Speaker 1: bush experiences, and Quinin did share that voice note with
• 0:15
  Speaker 1: us about how amazing it is to witness the Great
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  Speaker 1: Migration orbeit with some concerns around over tourism, which we
• 0:21
  Speaker 1: will talk about. But even if you've not been yourself,
• 0:24
  Speaker 1: I'm sure by now you've seen at least one National
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  Speaker 1: geographic documentary, those magnificent vistas of thousands and thousands of
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  Speaker 1: animals thundering across the plains, crossing rivers, Crocodiles waiting to
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  Speaker 1: snap at the legs of the young vildebas and zebras
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  Speaker 1: and the like that are trying to get across. It
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  Speaker 1: is a very rare privilege to have the experience of
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  Speaker 1: seeing it in person, and with us today is somebody
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  Speaker 1: who's had that privilege several times. I'm so green with
• 0:49
  Speaker 1: envy on this one, and wants to talk to us
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  Speaker 1: about how to do it, the different places to go
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  Speaker 1: to experience it. Doing a little bit of a comparison
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  Speaker 1: between what the experience is like in Kenya versus Tanzania,
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  Speaker 1: would to the two main places associated with this concept.
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  Speaker 2: Her name is Ega Mortilska.
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  Speaker 1: She is a registered to a guide as well as
• 1:07
  Speaker 1: a travel journalist and guidebook author. She's voice behind the
• 1:10
  Speaker 1: travel platform eager journeys dot com and.
• 1:13
  Speaker 2: She's with me in studio. It's lovely to have you
• 1:14
  Speaker 2: with us.
• 1:15
  Speaker 3: Welcome absolutely, Thank you so much, Pitha and Haiti in
• 1:18
  Speaker 3: your listeners.
• 1:19
  Speaker 1: How many times have you seen it yourself?
• 1:21
  Speaker 3: So I've been to Tanzania four times and to Kenya once.
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  Speaker 3: I've witnessed the Great Migration once and obviously, naturally it's
• 1:30
  Speaker 3: a natural phenomenon, so you might go and you might
• 1:33
  Speaker 3: miss the animals because they are moving with the reins,
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  Speaker 3: and so it's very seasonal. It's not like you can
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  Speaker 3: put a date down to it and ask the vildebues
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  Speaker 3: to move between this date and this data. And I
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  Speaker 3: think that's what's so important to prepare yourself as well,
• 1:47
  Speaker 3: not just to see the Great Migration, but just the
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  Speaker 3: experience in and of itself, the landscapes, the other wildlife,
• 1:55
  Speaker 3: and just the experience in and of itself.
• 1:58
  Speaker 1: Because that snapshot of the national geographic thing. I mean,
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  Speaker 1: it is part of the Great Migration, but it's not
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  Speaker 1: like that all the time throughout the season in all
• 2:07
  Speaker 1: parts of Kenya and Tanzania. And I think important to
• 2:10
  Speaker 1: manage people's expectations. It's wonderful that shows like that get
• 2:14
  Speaker 1: us excited about the wild and about these things, but
• 2:17
  Speaker 1: they can also sometimes let people down in their expectations,
• 2:20
  Speaker 1: not being.
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  Speaker 3: Realistic certainly, and I think that's why it's so important
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  Speaker 3: for us to talk about the timing of seeing the
• 2:27
  Speaker 3: great migration between the two countries. And of course you
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  Speaker 3: know you'll they follow the rain patterns and the rainfall
• 2:34
  Speaker 3: as I mentioned, and obviously the new grass shoots. So
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  Speaker 3: when you're looking at Tanzania, between December and March, the
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  Speaker 3: herds are usually in the southern Serengetti for carving season.
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  Speaker 3: Then between April and May they start moving northwards through
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  Speaker 3: the central Serengeti and this is the so called rating season.
• 2:54
  Speaker 3: Then between June and July the migration reaches the western
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  Speaker 3: current corridor, and here you might see those dramatic river crossings,
• 3:02
  Speaker 3: you know, over the Grumeti River. So the crocodile's lying
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  Speaker 3: in wait and the vilder be springing over That's really something.
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  Speaker 3: It's quite dramatic. And then between August to October, the
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  Speaker 3: heads typically are concentrated in the northern Serengetti and that's
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  Speaker 3: when they cross into Kenya's Massaimara. So in Kenya, between
• 3:21
  Speaker 3: August to October, that's the peak time to witness those
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  Speaker 3: millions and millions of herds and again the dramatic river
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  Speaker 3: crossings over there. And then in November, as the rains
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  Speaker 3: begin in the south, the herds start to journey back
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  Speaker 3: down to the Serengetti. So something that most people are
• 3:39
  Speaker 3: not aware of is that it's a year long journey
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  Speaker 3: that happens throughout in various sections of both national parks
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  Speaker 3: that border each other and have that wildlife corridor.
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  Speaker 1: I did not know it was that extensive. And I mean,
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  Speaker 1: as you said, nobody is tapping the canoos on the
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  Speaker 1: shoulder and saying time to move into the southern quadrants
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  Speaker 1: east thirty seven degrees. It's a natural phenomenon. Very interesting
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  Speaker 1: what you said about the rain. So they are moving
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  Speaker 1: to where there is new grass to feed on as
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  Speaker 1: their primary motivation to drive that change. Okay, so different
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  Speaker 1: seasons for different parts of East Africa and plan accordingly,
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  Speaker 1: if you're wanting to go there and see this, are
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  Speaker 1: you going to see something terribly different in the Serengeti
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  Speaker 1: versus the Masaimara in terms of the sort of the
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  Speaker 1: landscape around you and the other kinds of game.
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  Speaker 3: So certainly because of the size and their location. But
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  Speaker 3: obviously they're within the same region of Eastern Africa, so
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  Speaker 3: there are many similarities the Massaimara and Kenya. You've got
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  Speaker 3: those vast open grasslands, they're obviously dotted with those characteristic
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  Speaker 3: Acacia trees. It's that classic image you have of the
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  Speaker 3: African safari. And then of course you'll see the migrating
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  Speaker 3: herds crossing over the Mara River over there. And then
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  Speaker 3: in Tanzania Serengetia it's much larger, so you've got a
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  Speaker 3: much greater diverse landscape and habitats. So you'll find the
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  Speaker 3: vast open plains very similar to the Massaimara, but you'll
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  Speaker 3: also have hills and woodlands, riverine forests, granite outcrops and
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  Speaker 3: so on. And of course because it's so vast as well,
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  Speaker 3: and you'll see differences between the southern Serengetti and of
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  Speaker 3: course the northern Serengetti where it's closer to the Massaimara,
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  Speaker 3: and that's where you'll have more of those rocky outcrops
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  Speaker 3: and woodlands. So it's wonderful that you can have many similarities,
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  Speaker 3: but those unique characteristics that are relevant to each park.
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  Speaker 1: You go Quentin in an earlier voice note and now
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  Speaker 1: Roy as well, carmenting on the issue of over tourism
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  Speaker 1: and what do you do to try and not be
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  Speaker 1: fighting and jockeying for position with one hundred other game
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  Speaker 1: vehicles all trying to see the same thing at the
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  Speaker 1: same time. I mean, you're describing huge wades of land.
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  Speaker 2: You would think that there would be.
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  Speaker 1: Plenty of room for everybody to have their at turnity
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  Speaker 1: experience it. But the reality is if it's a particular
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  Speaker 1: area that is seasonal at a particular time, you are
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  Speaker 1: going to see some concentration. Firstly, did you experience that
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  Speaker 1: when you were there? And secondly, do you want to
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  Speaker 1: talk about how you manage that problem?
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  Speaker 3: Certainly, absolutely, Pippa and I think this is something that
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  Speaker 3: should be top of mind, and you know, naturally, of
• 6:17
  Speaker 3: course everyone wants to see it. It's certainly that like
• 6:20
  Speaker 3: once in a lifetime kind of experience. But especially in
• 6:23
  Speaker 3: recent years, we have seen a huge rise on over tourism,
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  Speaker 3: and you know, that's something that needs to have a
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  Speaker 3: discussion in and of itself of responsible and eco friendly tourism.
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  Speaker 3: How do we keep that in check, how do we
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  Speaker 3: do so responsibly? And so naturally, of course, you've got
• 6:40
  Speaker 3: conservation fees that are levied at each of the parks.
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  Speaker 3: I will say that the prices are quite high, and
• 6:46
  Speaker 3: so naturally, of course that means that not everyone can
• 6:49
  Speaker 3: go and experience it. And you also have different kinds
• 6:53
  Speaker 3: of travel experiences. Whether you want to do you know,
• 6:56
  Speaker 3: drive from South Africa and do as self drive. Whether
• 6:59
  Speaker 3: you want to camp or do fly camping, which is
• 7:02
  Speaker 3: like mobile camping, whether you're going to one of the
• 7:05
  Speaker 3: lodgers or a very high end five star lodge. Naturally,
• 7:09
  Speaker 3: of course those lodgers want you and their guests to
• 7:12
  Speaker 3: see everything as much as possible. Is it going to
• 7:15
  Speaker 3: be busy, yes, Are there going to be lots of
• 7:18
  Speaker 3: travelers and tourists. Yes. Are you going to have to
• 7:21
  Speaker 3: stand up and try weave your way, you know, to
• 7:24
  Speaker 3: get that photograph without having anyone in the foreground. Yes,
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  Speaker 3: And so that's why I encourage people to try also
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  Speaker 3: travel during the shoulder season, so we see those millions
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  Speaker 3: and millions of wildebeest and all the other you know,
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  Speaker 3: antelope and someone making their way through there. But it's
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  Speaker 3: important to take note that even outside of that primary
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  Speaker 3: key time of the great migration, as I mentioned, the
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  Speaker 3: animals are always moving, which is really great because you'll
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  Speaker 3: get to see them at different parts of the country
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  Speaker 3: and also spin very last vast numbers during rutting season
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  Speaker 3: or car season. I was there another time during carving
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  Speaker 3: season and that was magical because I've never seen so
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  Speaker 3: many little baby antelope and zebra and vildebies before and
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  Speaker 3: that's really special as well. So you don't necessarily have
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  Speaker 3: to see crossing off the grimeti of the Massaimara. And
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  Speaker 3: something that I would really encourage people to do as
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  Speaker 3: well is if they want to see an experience a
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  Speaker 3: safari in Eastern Africa is also perhaps to go to
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  Speaker 3: some of the lesser known parks. I've been to the
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  Speaker 3: parks along southern Tanzania and Western Tanzania a number of times,
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  Speaker 3: and I must say that was absolutely magical. Maybe we
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  Speaker 3: can chell a little bit more about that A little
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  Speaker 3: later as well.
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  Speaker 1: Yeah, so I hope we can circle back to a
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  Speaker 1: few recommendations on those. So, I mean, I hear what
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  Speaker 1: you're saying. So there is a certain kind of traveler
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  Speaker 1: who wants that particular experience that they've seen on the
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  Speaker 1: National Geographic documentary. But if you were prepared to say
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  Speaker 1: I don't mind going a little out of peak season,
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  Speaker 1: or perhaps you're slightly more off the beaten track camp
• 9:01
  Speaker 1: within the park, or to go in that shoulder season,
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  Speaker 1: you'll have more chance of seeing it with less congestion,
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  Speaker 1: is the message. And as you say, this issue of
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  Speaker 1: how we balance the need was to bring tourists in
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  Speaker 1: and all the economic benefit that brings without them overrunning
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  Speaker 1: a place and having it lose its character altogether, as
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  Speaker 1: it sadly happened.
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  Speaker 2: In many destinations.
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  Speaker 1: It's an ongoing debate, but Roy and Quintin, thank you
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  Speaker 1: so much for raising that, just for the sake of
• 9:25
  Speaker 1: anybody who's come in midway to this interview. My guest
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  Speaker 1: in studio with us today IgA Mortilska, who is a
• 9:30
  Speaker 1: registered to A guide and travel journalist who has her
• 9:33
  Speaker 1: self penned guide books and is the voice behind the
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  Speaker 1: Travel platcor form Eager Journeys dot com. She has been
• 9:40
  Speaker 1: to Tanzania multiple times herself. She's also had the experience
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  Speaker 1: of visiting the Mara and Kenya and talking to us
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  Speaker 1: about how and when and where to experience the Great Migration.
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  Speaker 1: And I really take your point, not just the Great Migration.
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  Speaker 1: There's so much to see adjacent to the Great Migration.
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  Speaker 1: Maybe let's talk a little bit about that. Besides the
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  Speaker 1: vast herds of the wilderber and the zebras and the antelope,
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  Speaker 1: what else would you recommend we keep eyes open.
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  Speaker 3: For, certainly, And just to add one more point on
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  Speaker 3: our previous question, I think if you are going for
• 10:10
  Speaker 3: the Great Migration in peak season, maybe spend two or
• 10:13
  Speaker 3: three days with those herds of people and animals, and
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  Speaker 3: then also maybe spend two or three even four days
• 10:22
  Speaker 3: going into the less populated parts, as you said, the
• 10:25
  Speaker 3: ones where you don't have as many people, and that's
• 10:29
  Speaker 3: where you can see some of the other highlights. One
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  Speaker 3: of my trips to the Serengetti actually was with birders yep,
• 10:36
  Speaker 3: and I must say that's something that I'm certainly still
• 10:39
  Speaker 3: learning about, but I was fascinated at how there was
• 10:42
  Speaker 3: an elephant to our right, and they were keenly looking
• 10:45
  Speaker 3: to the left with their you know, zoom focus lenses
• 10:49
  Speaker 3: art and and I was just silently pointing and saying,
• 10:52
  Speaker 3: you guys know that there's an elephant here. So that's
• 10:55
  Speaker 3: an experience in and of itself. So it's not just
• 10:58
  Speaker 3: about the big five that you can certainly see both
• 11:01
  Speaker 3: in both parks. Cheetahs are also very common in both parks,
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  Speaker 3: and very often you know, other hunting. They're obviously hunting
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  Speaker 3: other migrating herbivores as well. Hyenas closely followed those herds
• 11:15
  Speaker 3: as well. You'll see lions as well, and naturally, of
• 11:19
  Speaker 3: course the vilderbeestes are moving as I mentioned with antelopes
• 11:22
  Speaker 3: with giraffes, and you've got spectacular birds within both of
• 11:27
  Speaker 3: those ecosystems as well.
• 11:29
  Speaker 1: And so often, I mean you can smile at the
• 11:31
  Speaker 1: bird as we've got a birder in the family. So
• 11:32
  Speaker 1: I know all about those bush trips where you've stopped
• 11:35
  Speaker 1: to spend forty five minutes looking at a little brown jobby
• 11:37
  Speaker 1: in the tree over there. But I have to say
• 11:39
  Speaker 1: in fairness that so often it's when you have stopped
• 11:42
  Speaker 1: for the little brown bird that's something else emerges because you.
• 11:46
  Speaker 2: Have waited and switched off the car engine.
• 11:48
  Speaker 1: And you've taken the time to just sit, and so
• 11:51
  Speaker 1: often you've had this most amazing sighting of something a
• 11:54
  Speaker 1: big mammal or a predator, because they've come upon the
• 11:57
  Speaker 1: stillness of waiting and watching the birds.
• 11:59
  Speaker 3: I love that you put the guidebook away, you put
• 12:02
  Speaker 3: your phone away, and because you're waiting for them to
• 12:05
  Speaker 3: get that shot, you're noticing things that you wouldn't have
• 12:09
  Speaker 3: normally noticed, the small little critters, you know, a bee
• 12:13
  Speaker 3: or a butterfly or birds. As you mentioned, you might
• 12:16
  Speaker 3: see a rustle in the grass and try think what
• 12:18
  Speaker 3: that is, and then maybe you stop and pause and
• 12:21
  Speaker 3: just take in the landscape and think how absolutely gorgeous
• 12:26
  Speaker 3: it is and how you know, lucky and privileged we
• 12:28
  Speaker 3: are to live in such a beautiful part of the world,
• 12:30
  Speaker 3: and Africa as well.
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  Speaker 1: Absolutely all right, So we've spoken about the when to go,
• 12:36
  Speaker 1: and we've spoken about the.
• 12:38
  Speaker 2: Where to go. Let's talk a little bit about how
• 12:40
  Speaker 2: to get there from South Africa.
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  Speaker 3: Yes, certainly. What was so fascinating is on my most
• 12:45
  Speaker 3: recent trip, I met a couple who actually drove from
• 12:49
  Speaker 3: the western cave.
• 12:50
  Speaker 2: Sure all the way out.
• 12:52
  Speaker 3: That is absolutely say if you're brave and have that
• 12:55
  Speaker 3: time and that opportunity, highly highly recommend it. Obviously, you
• 13:00
  Speaker 3: know you've got flights with big local airlines who fly directly,
• 13:05
  Speaker 3: You've got Kenyan Airways, I think you've got some of
• 13:08
  Speaker 3: the bigger ones as well now with like Emirates and Qatar,
• 13:14
  Speaker 3: so like you can certainly do that. And once you're there,
• 13:17
  Speaker 3: there are lots of regional flights as well. There are,
• 13:22
  Speaker 3: like there's a big handful of like regional carriers. You
• 13:26
  Speaker 3: might also if you have you know, the opportunity to
• 13:28
  Speaker 3: do to do so. Your lodge might even book a
• 13:31
  Speaker 3: private charter for you. But it's very easy, and especially
• 13:35
  Speaker 3: during peak season, you've got a lot of those flights
• 13:38
  Speaker 3: going internally. They're also affordable because there's a lot of
• 13:42
  Speaker 3: competition as well. Some people also want to take in
• 13:47
  Speaker 3: the journey as you mentioned of like very similar to
• 13:49
  Speaker 3: looking out for that bird or that small little critter
• 13:53
  Speaker 3: and want to drive so that they can sort of
• 13:55
  Speaker 3: witness the ever changing landscape. But very easy. I also
• 14:00
  Speaker 3: recommend looking for package deals. Very often you might get
• 14:03
  Speaker 3: that depending on the lodge where you stay, they might
• 14:07
  Speaker 3: package a sort of all inclusive stay for you that
• 14:10
  Speaker 3: includes your flights, your lodging, your food, whether you want
• 14:14
  Speaker 3: to go half board or all inclusive, and that sometimes
• 14:18
  Speaker 3: is really helpful as well. You know, if you want
• 14:21
  Speaker 3: to know how much you're going to pay more or
• 14:22
  Speaker 3: less upfront, excluding maybe any tips and gratuities and souvenirs
• 14:27
  Speaker 3: and anything of a personal nature, that's a good way
• 14:31
  Speaker 3: to budget for it, because, let's be honest, it is
• 14:33
  Speaker 3: something that most of us have to save up for,
• 14:36
  Speaker 3: and many of us might only go to visit once
• 14:38
  Speaker 3: in our life.
• 14:39
  Speaker 1: Yeah, so you want to I take your point that
• 14:41
  Speaker 1: that way of traveling can be a predictable expense. There
• 14:45
  Speaker 1: are no hidden costs in doing it that way.
• 14:48
  Speaker 2: You mentioned the park fees.
• 14:50
  Speaker 1: Do you want to just give our listeners a sense
• 14:51
  Speaker 1: of I know they will be quoted in US dollars.
• 14:54
  Speaker 2: What are the current fees approximately? Yes, So.
• 14:59
  Speaker 3: In the mass Simar adults who are obviously not resident
• 15:02
  Speaker 3: in the country pay one hundred US dollars per day.
• 15:05
  Speaker 3: But remember it's also very seasonal, so that's between the
• 15:08
  Speaker 3: first of January and the thirtieth of June, you're going
• 15:11
  Speaker 3: to pay two hundred US dollars per day in that
• 15:14
  Speaker 3: peak season between July first and December thirty first, so
• 15:17
  Speaker 3: it fluctuates, it doubles essentially, So.
• 15:19
  Speaker 1: That's nearly three and a half thousand right a day
• 15:22
  Speaker 1: in peak season, Okay, So that's definitely something to be
• 15:24
  Speaker 1: taken into consideration.
• 15:26
  Speaker 2: Is it a similar cost in Sereneti?
• 15:27
  Speaker 3: So the Serengeti is a little bit more affordable in
• 15:30
  Speaker 3: that you're paying seventy US dollars in peak season, it
• 15:34
  Speaker 3: slightly changes it's from May sixteenth to May fourteenth, and
• 15:37
  Speaker 3: you're paying even less, so sixty US dollars during that
• 15:41
  Speaker 3: low season that we spoke about, which goes from the
• 15:43
  Speaker 3: fifteenth of March to the fifteenth of May.
• 15:46
  Speaker 1: Okay, So that's something to definitely take into consideration when
• 15:50
  Speaker 1: budgeting it. Park fees a significant expense to factor in,
• 15:53
  Speaker 1: and obviously accommodation fee is going to vary greatly. I mean,
• 15:57
  Speaker 1: I know at the top end of the scale, I
• 15:58
  Speaker 1: don't even want to think about what the day would be.
• 16:00
  Speaker 1: But is it possible to do this on a budget?
• 16:02
  Speaker 1: I mean, is there really affordable budget camping for example?
• 16:05
  Speaker 3: Yes, definitely, and they are really well kitted out as well,
• 16:09
  Speaker 3: because they're looking for those brave, solo independent travelers who
• 16:13
  Speaker 3: are traversing you know, Africa from north to south or
• 16:16
  Speaker 3: east to west, whatever it might be, and naturally across
• 16:21
  Speaker 3: the country. Sometimes during rainy seasons some of the camping
• 16:26
  Speaker 3: sites might close because of accessibility and so on. But
• 16:29
  Speaker 3: they're also definitely mid range camps and lodges, you know,
• 16:34
  Speaker 3: and so they're very comfortable, they're well equipped. They'll still
• 16:38
  Speaker 3: have excellent wildlife viewing opportunities, but perhaps with not all
• 16:41
  Speaker 3: of the you know, bells and whistles that obviously carry
• 16:44
  Speaker 3: that kind of surcharge. Something else that we have to
• 16:48
  Speaker 3: keep in mind, Pepper, as South African travelers is that
• 16:51
  Speaker 3: very often, as you mentioned, the park fees and conservation fees,
• 16:55
  Speaker 3: and very often the lodge rates are quoted in US DOTG.
• 17:00
  Speaker 3: So that's something else that we need to consider, is that,
• 17:03
  Speaker 3: you know, that exchange rate. Unfortunately, it's always a good
• 17:06
  Speaker 3: idea to maybe get a travel card when you're there
• 17:08
  Speaker 3: on the ground as well, you know, before you leave
• 17:10
  Speaker 3: from your local bank. That helps a little bit with
• 17:13
  Speaker 3: the fluctuation and so on. But yeah, certainly they're catering
• 17:18
  Speaker 3: for Europeans Americans, I mean.
• 17:22
  Speaker 1: The bottom line is, as you've said, it's an expensive holiday.
• 17:25
  Speaker 1: I mean it's between the distance that one has to travel,
• 17:28
  Speaker 1: the park fees, and then paying for accommodation, food, and
• 17:31
  Speaker 1: all the things that go with it. It is an
• 17:33
  Speaker 1: expensive trip and it is for many people going to
• 17:35
  Speaker 1: be a once in a lifetime opportunity. So it is
• 17:38
  Speaker 1: one that is really worth researching hard and planning carefully
• 17:43
  Speaker 1: and over a long time. That's half the fun, though,
• 17:45
  Speaker 1: isn't it. The anticipation that comes with the planning. Eager,
• 17:48
  Speaker 1: I mean fantastic input you've given us today. Thank you
• 17:51
  Speaker 1: so much. If listeners want to read more of your
• 17:54
  Speaker 1: writing on this and other destinations, what's the best place.
• 17:57
  Speaker 2: To do that.
• 17:57
  Speaker 3: Yes, they can go to Eager journeys dot com. So
• 18:00
  Speaker 3: that's e A G. E R journeys dot com. It's
• 18:05
  Speaker 3: obviously a pun on my name Ega I g A Yeah,
• 18:08
  Speaker 3: and just have a look there. I've written various public
• 18:12
  Speaker 3: for various publications and articles as well, but I've also
• 18:14
  Speaker 3: got some blog posts detailing this and so much more
• 18:18
  Speaker 3: from our travels around the world.
• 18:19
  Speaker 1: Well, thank you so much for sharing some insight with
• 18:21
  Speaker 1: us today. It's been an absolute pleasure having you on
• 18:23
  Speaker 1: the show Iger Motilska. That website is eager journeys dot com.