Latest / The Science of Skin / Skincare Through the Ages - Episode 2: The Skincare Revolution Among Teens

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Skincare Through the Ages - Episode 2: The Skincare Revolution Among Teens · The Science of Skin

0:00
SPEAKER_00: The Skin Care Through the Ages series is sponsored by Neutrogena.
0:03
SPEAKER_00: To learn more about the products mentioned in the episodes, please visit the link in the description.
0:16
SPEAKER_02: Hi, I'm Dr.
0:17
SPEAKER_02: Patty Ferris.
0:18
SPEAKER_02: I'm a Ford certified dermatologist, and I'm your host for this episode of the Science of Skin Podcast, formerly known as Skincare Confidential.
0:27
SPEAKER_02: As most of you know, this supports our medical meeting, the Science of Skin Summit.
0:32
SPEAKER_02: So our name change is really to align and to bring everything under the brand of the Science of Skin.
0:38
SPEAKER_02: So welcome to my guests.
0:40
SPEAKER_02: I'm going to introduce both of them for this episode.
0:43
SPEAKER_02: And this, by the way, is the second episode in a series about skincare through the ages that's sponsored by Neutrogena.
0:50
SPEAKER_02: And in this episode, we're going to be talking about skincare for teenagers.
0:53
SPEAKER_02: So I have literally the best possible experts could have been found in the world talking to me.
1:00
SPEAKER_02: So I'm so excited.
1:02
SPEAKER_02: First, let me introduce Dr.
1:03
SPEAKER_02: Katie Belesney.
1:04
SPEAKER_02: She's a board certified dermatologist, boarded in both Canada and the U.S., currently practices in Vancouver, such a beautiful city.
1:12
SPEAKER_02: Lucky you.
1:13
SPEAKER_02: She's on the faculty at the University of British Columbia.
1:15
SPEAKER_02: She's very active, does lots of clinical trials research, and has published more than 50 peer-reviewed articles and textbook chapters.
1:23
SPEAKER_02: Impressive.
1:24
SPEAKER_02: She enjoys educating about all things skin on social media, has a huge following.
1:29
SPEAKER_02: I'm a huge fan.
1:30
SPEAKER_02: And can be found on Instagram and TikTok at Dr.
1:33
SPEAKER_02: Katie Belesney.
1:35
SPEAKER_02: With me also is a good friend and colleague, Dr.
1:38
SPEAKER_02: Latanya Benjamin.
1:40
SPEAKER_02: She is double board certified.
1:42
SPEAKER_02: I love you overachievers.
1:43
SPEAKER_02: She's boarded in both dermatology and pediatrics.
1:46
SPEAKER_02: She's fellowship trained, a former professor at Stanford.
1:50
SPEAKER_02: She founded her practice down in Florida, which is called Young Skin.
1:54
SPEAKER_02: This is a private practice that's dedicated to specialized care and healing for all children with rare and common skin disorders.
2:01
SPEAKER_02: She's a well-known international expert on acne treatment, atopic dermatitis, and photoprotection and all things baby.
2:09
SPEAKER_02: She can be found on social media as dr.mommy on TikTok and drmommy.derm on Instagram.
2:17
SPEAKER_02: And I follow you too, and I love both of your content.
2:20
SPEAKER_02: So thank you guys for joining me.
2:23
SPEAKER_02: Thank you.
2:23
SPEAKER_02: It's an honor to be here.
2:25
SPEAKER_01: Yes, thank you so much.
2:26
SPEAKER_01: Love, love talking all these things.
2:29
SPEAKER_02: This is right up your alley.
2:30
SPEAKER_02: And you know, this subject, skin care for teens, is so up your alley because, as you know, as all dermatologists know these days, with the advent and the rise in interest in social media, we have a whole new group of people coming into our offices going, what should I use on my skin?
2:47
SPEAKER_02: And they're kids, they're teenagers, sometimes they're even younger than teenagers.
2:53
SPEAKER_02: And so let's start with your experience in your practice.
2:56
SPEAKER_02: Like, what are you both seeing?
2:57
SPEAKER_02: Latanya, I know you have a pediatric dorm practice.
3:00
SPEAKER_02: Are you seeing more children in your practice with this type of question?
3:04
SPEAKER_02: And also, I want to know what did their moms think?
3:07
SPEAKER_03: Absolutely.
3:08
SPEAKER_03: Definitely over at least the past decade, we're seeing children younger and younger coming to talk about their skin with multiple skincare products.
3:19
SPEAKER_03: They're concerned about acne, and we're seeing acne actually arising earlier in life.
3:24
SPEAKER_03: So eight, nine used to be unheard of when I began training as a pediatrician.
3:31
SPEAKER_03: Now, as a dermatologist, I'm seeing that that is almost where we're at right now with the beginning discussions of skincare and hygiene.
3:39
SPEAKER_03: And the parents are absolutely shocked because they don't recall that their, you know, menstrual cycle began, for example, at such a young age, or signs of acne developing a year or two before that occurs.
3:50
SPEAKER_03: And they're confused, especially with all these skincare products.
3:53
SPEAKER_03: They're really unsure of how to guide their young children.
3:56
SPEAKER_02: I'm sure.
3:57
SPEAKER_02: And Katie, how about in your practice?
3:59
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I mean, the same.
4:01
SPEAKER_01: I mean, I see a lot of parents asking about their kids and why their kids are getting all this skincare and into skincare.
4:07
SPEAKER_01: So I think that's a large part of the population I'm seeing.
4:10
SPEAKER_01: And then being online on social media, you see it like the Gen Z, the Gen Alpha, they're asking about skincare.
4:15
SPEAKER_01: They have so much more knowledge, I think, than previous generations.
4:19
SPEAKER_01: They're talking about ingredients and studies, and then they're looking at all the different skincare products that are available and engaging in them and buying them.
4:27
SPEAKER_01: So I think it's it's been a shift that I've certainly seen over you know the past decade or so in practice.
4:33
SPEAKER_02: It is a phenomenon.
4:34
SPEAKER_02: And for everybody listening, dermatologists are very well aware of this.
4:37
SPEAKER_02: There was actually an article in the Journal of Drugs and Dermatology, which we call the JDD last month, about the quote, Sephora kids, which is sort of an affectionate term for these kids who are just really have a heightened awareness about skin care.
4:51
SPEAKER_02: Now, we know, of course, that the skin of teenagers and even younger children is different than adult skin.
4:57
SPEAKER_02: So let's talk for just a second about maybe problems that could happen if these kids run into the wrong products.
5:04
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I mean, one thing we know with the teens and tweens, like they do have these pubertal hormones.
5:10
SPEAKER_01: They can be a little oilier, but they also have like that still maturing skin barrier.
5:14
SPEAKER_01: And so they're balancing different needs.
5:16
SPEAKER_01: But what's happening, you know, that we're seeing a lot is they're out there, they're seeing all these products, they're online, they're being hit with all the TikTok trends.
5:24
SPEAKER_01: And sometimes I see issues with, for example, getting sucked into too many exfoliating products.
5:29
SPEAKER_01: You know, they're on a whole whackload of things that they've they've purchased and trying to navigate that because their skin can be irritated or you know, undergoing a number of issues there.
5:40
SPEAKER_01: Also, we're seeing, you know, for example, like the K-Beauty stacks, they've got 10-step routines and they're teens and tweens, and or they've started anti-aging routines at really young ages where that might might not be the right fit for their skin.
5:52
SPEAKER_02: I don't think you can do anti-aging when you haven't aged, right?
5:56
SPEAKER_01: And that's that's for sure amazing.
5:57
SPEAKER_01: Precisely.
5:58
SPEAKER_02: But Tommy, what are you what are your uh things that you're concerned about as a pediatrician and a dermatologist?
6:05
SPEAKER_03: Similarly, yes.
6:06
SPEAKER_03: Uh, we could do damage to our barrier at any age.
6:09
SPEAKER_03: And just by virtue of having pediatric skin, they're really susceptible to what's out there and this misinformation, or they're really being guided by older celebrities or folks that have that mature barrier.
6:21
SPEAKER_03: They're we're really at a disadvantage because they're starting younger and they can really wreak havoc in their skin much easier.
6:29
SPEAKER_03: And so we have to be mindful about educating the right ingredients in a particular product not to do that damage to the barrier.
6:37
SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
6:38
SPEAKER_02: I mean, I think one of the things, one of my favorite statements is like, let's make lemonade out of the lemons.
6:44
SPEAKER_02: So, although there may be a little bit of lemon in this when we have to deal with these issues that may occur when they pick the wrong products, if they end up in our practices, we can give them good advice.
6:56
SPEAKER_02: And so let's talk first about what's a great regimen for a young person.
7:01
SPEAKER_02: Um, you know, what kinds of basics might you would advise a patient to use?
7:06
SPEAKER_03: Definitely the three pillars, right?
7:08
SPEAKER_03: We need to cleanse.
7:10
SPEAKER_03: This is a wonderful opportunity to talk about hygiene with the children, get them on an established skincare that can set them up for life, the basic pillars of cleansing, followed by moisturization and protecting the barrier with sunscreen.
7:24
SPEAKER_03: Perfect.
7:25
SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
7:25
SPEAKER_01: Absolutely agree.
7:27
SPEAKER_01: And you know, the one silver lining I think to the younger generation getting involved in skincare earlier is at least sunscreen and photo protection, as some people are more aware of that now, which is nice because you know, there's a little bit more, but I agree.
7:40
SPEAKER_01: Talking about cleansing, moisturizing, and sunscreen is sort of that bare or basic level and and can build on that depending on the needs of that kid or teen in front of you.
7:50
SPEAKER_03: And young kids taking advantage of the fact that we're teaching them younger can build consistency, yeah.
7:55
SPEAKER_03: Consistency in the routine, confidence, uh, you know, some self-awareness and really get them empowered as they're growing by taking this autonomy on the self.
8:05
SPEAKER_03: It's a great time.
8:06
SPEAKER_03: You know, we have kids in this age that are learning to perhaps help mom or dad in the kitchen to cook.
8:11
SPEAKER_03: And there's ways to really, as you said, uh Dr.
8:14
SPEAKER_03: Ferris, like turn this into a positive where we introduce this topic earlier in their life.
8:20
SPEAKER_02: Yes, I love it.
8:21
SPEAKER_02: And you know, empowering them with self-care.
8:24
SPEAKER_02: And that's just so important.
8:26
SPEAKER_02: Um, I think one of the things, let's talk about each of the pillars.
8:30
SPEAKER_02: I love that you called it that.
8:32
SPEAKER_02: Um, let's talk about cleansers.
8:34
SPEAKER_02: It's sometimes hard to pick cleansers in this group because you've got kids on all spectrums.
8:38
SPEAKER_02: You've got the oily acne prone patient, you've got the normal skin patient, and then you've probably got dry skin patients who have eczema.
8:47
SPEAKER_02: So, what are some of the things that you might look for in a cleanser?
8:51
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I mean, I'm looking for something that's generally barrier-friendly, you know, pH balance, preferably fragrance-free.
8:57
SPEAKER_01: And you can line it up to the skin type, right?
9:00
SPEAKER_01: So you might consider something more gel or foaming if the, you know, they have more oily or acne-prone skin, and something more maybe creamy or hydrating in terms of a cleanser if they're more sensitive or you know, eczema prone.
9:12
SPEAKER_01: So I think you can tailor it a little bit.
9:15
SPEAKER_01: Um, morning, you know, I'm a little more flexible.
9:17
SPEAKER_01: If they just wash with water or gentle cleanser in the evening, you know, certainly if they're wearing sunscreen or things through the day, they might get a good cleanse in.
9:24
SPEAKER_01: So those are some things that I would look for or suggest.
9:28
SPEAKER_03: And once I start seeing acne on the skin, even the microcomidones, you know, the really, really small blackheads or whiteheads, this is the time to introduce a formulation that has anti-acne fighting properties.
9:40
SPEAKER_03: We want to make sure that the cleanser is non-cometogenic and is really going to start removing the excessive oil and dirt that may be present, but yet not do any damage to the barrier.
9:52
SPEAKER_02: Those are all such great points.
9:54
SPEAKER_02: So I'll I'm going to talk for just a second about two Neutrogena cleansers and let you guys weigh in on them.
10:00
SPEAKER_02: We're starting, we'll start with acne because we were just chatting about that.
10:03
SPEAKER_02: Neutrogena oil-free acne wash has always been a favorite of mine.
10:06
SPEAKER_02: I've probably spilled that out of my mouth thousands of times in my career, and I'm way older than you ladies.
10:12
SPEAKER_02: But it is a dermatology favorite.
10:15
SPEAKER_02: And it's really a unique product because it does not affect the barrier.
10:20
SPEAKER_02: It's been studied, it's been shown not to increase transepdermal water loss, not to upregulate inflammatory markers.
10:27
SPEAKER_02: They've done a lot of really good preclinical work with it showing that it doesn't cause inflammation when compared to other salicylic acid cleansers.
10:35
SPEAKER_02: So this is a therapeutic cleanser.
10:37
SPEAKER_02: To take that testing a little bit further, they actually tested it on acne patients who used nothing but Neutrogena oil-free acne wash.
10:46
SPEAKER_02: And no surprise to me, but lo and behold, after 12 weeks, they saw an improvement in the acne with this cleanser alone.
10:54
SPEAKER_02: So this is kind of a two for two and two for one thing.
10:58
SPEAKER_02: Yes, it's a great cleanser, and it doesn't impact the barrier because it has a special technology, which I'll go through in our next little discussion.
11:06
SPEAKER_02: But it has a technology that really delivers that sal acid deep into the follicle without irritation.
11:12
SPEAKER_02: But when you have kids like, and I hate to pick on boys, but we all know as dermatologists, the boys hate skincare products.
11:18
SPEAKER_02: Do they hate acne products?
11:19
SPEAKER_02: Do they use them?
11:20
SPEAKER_02: Usually not.
11:21
SPEAKER_02: But if you can get them to wash their face, you know, they come home from sports and they're sweaty and they're dirty and they've got to wash their face.
11:28
SPEAKER_02: This is a therapeutic cleanser.
11:30
SPEAKER_02: And so I've always loved it because it does have such great benefits for acne patients.
11:36
SPEAKER_02: And obviously, there's lots of good acne products in the marketplace, over-the-counter products.
11:41
SPEAKER_03: You're exactly right.
11:42
SPEAKER_03: That is such a win-win when you have the science meeting simple, practical use so that they can continue to use this on a daily basis and gain the efficacy and what they're there to see.
11:56
SPEAKER_03: They want those results.
11:57
SPEAKER_02: Yeah, we we want to see them too.
11:59
SPEAKER_02: Katie, I'll go back to your comment about barrier and something that doesn't disrupt the barrier.
12:04
SPEAKER_02: I think that's so important.
12:06
SPEAKER_02: There's some interesting research or market research that really shows that people like foaming cleansers.
12:11
SPEAKER_02: And I mean, I think they generally prefer something that foams.
12:15
SPEAKER_02: And a cleanser that Neutrogena has that I think is super popular for a lot of good reasons is Hydroboost Hydrating Gel Cleanser.
12:23
SPEAKER_02: And this is a non-cometogenic, fragrance-free, dye-free foaming cleanser.
12:28
SPEAKER_02: And I'm sure you guys have tried it because we all have.
12:30
SPEAKER_02: It's a lovely foaming cleanser.
12:33
SPEAKER_02: And what's interesting is that it has been tested in patients with both acne-sensitive skin and with eczema.
12:40
SPEAKER_02: So it kind of bridges this whole group of teenagers that we see, as I mentioned early on, that spectrum of patients.
12:47
SPEAKER_02: What do you guys think about this cleanser?
12:50
SPEAKER_02: Have you all used it in your practice?
12:53
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I I love this cleanser.
12:55
SPEAKER_01: As you say, like it fits in with this, it's the foaming component to it, I think, makes it very usable and likable.
13:02
SPEAKER_01: But the fact that it is, in my experience with my patients, like a bit hydrating.
13:08
SPEAKER_01: Like it doesn't feel like that stingy, dry component to it.
13:11
SPEAKER_01: But yet, because it's non-cometogenic, because it has that other property and how it feels on the skin, my even my oilier or acne-prone patients do so well with it and it helps support the skin barrier at the same time.
13:24
SPEAKER_01: So I actually really love it for that sort of well-rounded cleanser that that patient can kind of go to.
13:31
SPEAKER_01: And yes, the active cleanser is helpful to have on hand, you know, especially if the acne is progressing and they're not using their topicals.
13:38
SPEAKER_01: But I this one as like a standard go-to is a really popular one in my hands and for my mutants.
13:44
SPEAKER_02: I think it's popular with all dermatologists.
13:46
SPEAKER_02: They use a really interesting polymeric cleansing technology.
13:50
SPEAKER_02: And the surfactant, which is really the thing that can be so irritating, is a potato starch-based surfactant.
13:58
SPEAKER_02: And they add a polymer that sort of keeps that surfactant where it needs to be on the surface of the stratum corneum, doesn't allow it to penetrate deeper into the skin where surfactants can be irritating.
14:09
SPEAKER_02: So I think that's sort of the magic in this technology, that it really keeps it right where you need it to remove the dirt and the pollutants and the makeup and everything else.
14:20
SPEAKER_02: But it's such a gentle cleanser.
14:22
SPEAKER_02: I really like this cleanser myself.
14:25
SPEAKER_03: And gentle is key, right?
14:27
SPEAKER_03: We have kids that want to reach for scrubs.
14:30
SPEAKER_03: And so when you have a foaming cleanser where they actually feel like they're getting clean from it, they won't necessarily have to reach for those harsher astringents or facial scrubs, again, minimizing their 10-step routine into something that's very high yield and effective.
14:44
SPEAKER_02: Yes, I agree.
14:45
SPEAKER_02: And it's so important, I think, to, again, if they see a dermatologist, to get this kind of guidance so they don't get the wrong thing.
14:53
SPEAKER_02: Moisturizers are the second pillar.
14:55
SPEAKER_02: So let's talk about them.
14:56
SPEAKER_02: How do you choose moisturizers for teens and tweens?
15:00
SPEAKER_02: I mean, there's so much out there about things that are, you know, I call them the villains in skincare.
15:07
SPEAKER_02: You know, these things that are, you know, they tell you you shouldn't use, especially in children.
15:12
SPEAKER_02: So maybe let on your way in as a pediatric dermatologist, where do you sort of stand on moisturizers and how do you pick them?
15:21
SPEAKER_03: Absolutely.
15:22
SPEAKER_03: First, I want to educate the uh patients.
15:24
SPEAKER_03: We all need moisturizers.
15:26
SPEAKER_03: Even if you feel that you have oily skin, you really still need to hydrate your skin.
15:30
SPEAKER_03: And so I'm looking for a hydrating ingredient that most all skin types can handle very well, such as like a hyaluronic acid, right?
15:38
SPEAKER_03: You're gonna reap the benefits of the moisturization from the hyaluronic acid, but suitable for most skin types, if not all, especially on a routine daily basis.
15:50
SPEAKER_03: So I think moisturization is especially key for the the children to know that that's part of their routine.
15:56
SPEAKER_02: Such a great point.
15:57
SPEAKER_02: They think they have oily skin and they don't need a moisturizer, but we know our acne patients have barrier dysfunction.
16:03
SPEAKER_02: They need moisturizers.
16:05
SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
16:06
SPEAKER_01: It's funny that that myth is so perpetuated, and hopefully the social media will break that one because I think anyone with acne is very like prone to like, can't use a moisturizer, must strip, exfoliate, right?
16:16
SPEAKER_01: So really educating around that barrier support and the need to incorporate that as part of their regular routine.
16:23
SPEAKER_03: And with that concern heard that the dermatologists then can offer something that's more lightweight or quickly absorbing so they don't feel that we didn't hear that they're concerned about that part of it.
16:38
SPEAKER_00: The Skin Care Through the Ages series is sponsored by Neutrogena.
16:42
SPEAKER_00: For over 90 years, Neutrogena has advanced skin health for all skin types with formulation expertise that combines scientifically proven ingredients and innovative technologies to deliver maximum efficacy and an unparalleled aesthetics experience.
16:58
SPEAKER_00: That's beauty to a science.
17:00
SPEAKER_00: To learn more about the products mentioned in the episodes, please visit the link in the description.
17:11
SPEAKER_02: So there are two Hydroboost products that I think are really important to know.
17:14
SPEAKER_02: We have the Hydro Boost Water Cream and we have the Hydro Boost Gel Cream.
17:19
SPEAKER_02: And I always get these names confused, so I have to read those out.
17:23
SPEAKER_02: But we're going to focus on the gel cream because this is probably more appropriate for this group of patients.
17:29
SPEAKER_02: And this has also been tested in sensitive skin, atopic dermatitis, and in acne.
17:34
SPEAKER_02: And it does eliminate a lot of the things that we like to see out of products.
17:39
SPEAKER_02: It is non-cometogenic, which is great.
17:42
SPEAKER_02: It is also dye and parabin-free.
17:44
SPEAKER_02: It doesn't have any phthalates, and it contains hyaluronic acid.
17:49
SPEAKER_02: And one of the things that I like is that they did a study, what we call an adjunct study, and you guys know what I mean.
17:54
SPEAKER_02: How does it work as an adjunct to prescription medications?
17:58
SPEAKER_02: And they looked at the gel cream and they found that when patients were using medications like tretinoin and epiduo, that their skin at the end of four weeks actually looked better.
18:11
SPEAKER_02: Their skin was more radiant, the tone was better.
18:14
SPEAKER_02: You can see some of the before and after pictures are really impressive, significant lightning and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
18:21
SPEAKER_02: So talk a little bit about how in your practice you use these products, moisturizers, as adjuncts to our prescription products and what's important about that.
18:34
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I mean, I think we know that when you pair it with your prescription product, it can help with tolerability, right?
18:39
SPEAKER_01: A lot of the times, especially if you're using more active ingredients or prescription-based ingredients or topicals for acne, it can affect that skin barrier.
18:49
SPEAKER_01: So to find a moisturizer, you know, something, and I do use a lot of the hydroboost gel cream in my practice that will help with the tolerability, yet also is feels lightweight enough that people will use and not, you know, there's that issue with compliance, as we talked about.
19:08
SPEAKER_01: And if it's too thick or they're concerned that that's contributing to acne, sometimes they'll hold off on the moisturizer.
19:14
SPEAKER_01: So finding something that pairs nicely and supports the results of your active treatments or prescription treatments is really effective, I think.
19:23
SPEAKER_02: Agree.
19:23
SPEAKER_02: And we do know that a lot of our acne medicines, particularly prescription ones, do affect the barrier, making a good moisturizer even more important for these patients.
19:34
SPEAKER_02: The last pillar, of course, is sun protection.
19:38
SPEAKER_02: And boy, we've got so many great sunscreens out there.
19:42
SPEAKER_02: So go ahead and dish, ladies.
19:44
SPEAKER_02: What are some of the things that you look for?
19:46
SPEAKER_02: And what are your favorite?
19:47
SPEAKER_02: You know, do you like sticks for kids?
19:49
SPEAKER_02: Do you prefer creamy ones?
19:51
SPEAKER_02: What do you feel about sprays?
19:53
SPEAKER_02: I'll let you start, Latanya, on how do you pick these products for kids?
19:57
SPEAKER_03: Absolutely.
19:58
SPEAKER_03: First thing, I need to get them to use them.
20:02
SPEAKER_03: And that's what most of the parents asked me to get them to actually use it.
20:06
SPEAKER_03: Yes.
20:06
SPEAKER_03: So tough.
20:07
SPEAKER_03: And I have to speak to skin of color.
20:09
SPEAKER_03: You know, there's still that perpetual myth.
20:11
SPEAKER_03: Well, if I have darker pigmentation in my skin, I may not even need a sunscreen.
20:15
SPEAKER_03: Yet we know that's a population that's prone to these acne marks at the end, the hyperpigmentation, the stubborn spots that they really want to clear.
20:24
SPEAKER_03: And so that's a nice introduction to say, hey, if you have acne, you may be at risk for dark marks after.
20:30
SPEAKER_03: So let's get a sunscreen on board, one that you're gonna love to put on.
20:35
SPEAKER_03: And of course, with skin and color, you want to be able to massage it or rub it to the point that you have this invisibility, right?
20:41
SPEAKER_03: This shield that weighs in nicely without a cast.
20:44
SPEAKER_03: And so, you know, I think Naturegena has beautiful ones to offer where you have this invisibility at the end as far as no pigment cast, and then they get that protection, but sometimes it's that introduction of why they're using sunscreen, not necessarily to fight skin cancer, which of course it does, and we need it to, but in the young population, they're more prone to what's real for them.
21:06
SPEAKER_03: And I think it's a dispigmentation or as is a way to go as opposed to this is preventing skin cancers later down the road.
21:14
SPEAKER_02: Yeah, so true.
21:15
SPEAKER_02: And and you make such a great point about skin of color.
21:19
SPEAKER_02: Um, I know one of the sunscreens that I think really works well in this group is Neutrogena UltraShear Mineral Face Liquid Sunscreen, SPF-70.
21:29
SPEAKER_02: This is a relatively new one.
21:31
SPEAKER_02: And I had the opportunity to look at this and to actually talk about it on another podcast.
21:36
SPEAKER_02: And it what's interesting is it gives you greater UVA protection.
21:39
SPEAKER_02: So that is important for our patients with that are prone to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, like our skin of color patients.
21:46
SPEAKER_02: This is a mineral sunscreen, as I said.
21:48
SPEAKER_02: And I think we see that movement away from chemical sunscreens towards mineral sunscreens in all groups, but a lot in kids.
21:56
SPEAKER_02: And the other nice thing about it was when they looked at it in patients.
22:00
SPEAKER_02: With skin color.
22:01
SPEAKER_02: It had 30% less of that sort of whitened cast that we see that it's so uncosmetically acceptable, not cosmetically acceptable in our darker skin patients.
22:12
SPEAKER_02: So I think that this is a good sunscreen, probably for all groups, but certainly for patients that have the darker skin tones and also have that being prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
22:25
SPEAKER_02: UVA protection is a real bugaboo, as we all know, and getting adequate protection is super important.
22:32
SPEAKER_03: And I love that you introduced the concept of a sunscreen that is mineral-based for the kids because usually that's my go-to.
22:40
SPEAKER_03: I don't even get into the blends or the chemical-based ones for the kids.
22:44
SPEAKER_03: I know that's going to be tolerated.
22:46
SPEAKER_03: Most of my kids may have two conditions going on.
22:49
SPEAKER_03: They're trying to outgrow their eczema, but they still have very sensitive eczema prone skin while they're going through puberty and maturation.
22:56
SPEAKER_03: And now acne is a secondary thing.
22:58
SPEAKER_03: So still always being mindful about how sensitive pediatric skin is.
23:02
SPEAKER_03: I'm always needing a good mineral-based sunscreen.
23:05
SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
23:06
SPEAKER_02: Do you tend to lean towards mineral as well, Katie?
23:08
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I would say definitely in the in the younger kid population, as we talk about, just for that sensitive or eczema prone skin, I do find it helpful.
23:17
SPEAKER_01: I would say for my teen or older patient who maybe darker skin phototype and just hasn't found the right, I'm open to the, you know, what works for them.
23:25
SPEAKER_01: And as we say, the best sunscreen is the one you'll actually use.
23:29
SPEAKER_01: And so I really encourage that kid or family, whoever it is in front of me, to find one that they will use.
23:35
SPEAKER_01: And like there was a time we talked about sticks when my kids were young and it was like the fighting with the lotion.
23:40
SPEAKER_01: And I was like, I got my stick sunscreen.
23:42
SPEAKER_01: And I'm like, if you're like, this is I got it on at least for this moment, and like that's a win.
23:47
SPEAKER_01: So true.
23:48
SPEAKER_02: They're such a moving target, right?
23:52
SPEAKER_01: I'm like, so I think really what you can get on is important.
23:56
SPEAKER_01: And then I think, you know, I try to aim for that at least SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum, as we talked about.
24:01
SPEAKER_01: And then the other key point, especially with you know, kids and teens in the summer, is if they're swimming a lot, look for something water resistant and like remind them about reapplying or try to find something that, you know, that they're at least knowledgeable that if they're out swimming all day, that they're going, that they may be not as protected after the end of the course of swimming in the day.
24:21
SPEAKER_02: So true.
24:22
SPEAKER_02: I had the opportunity to interview Josh Williams, who's a uh researcher and helps formulate products for Neutrogena, and he formulates sunscreen.
24:32
SPEAKER_02: He's a photobiologist, so I interviewed him on the podcast a couple months back, and he's talked to me about sunscreens, and they're so hard to formulate because there's so many things, as you point out.
24:41
SPEAKER_02: Are they water resistant?
24:43
SPEAKER_02: You know, do they stay on all day?
24:45
SPEAKER_02: What are the patient preferences?
24:47
SPEAKER_02: There's there's so many factors that go into them.
24:49
SPEAKER_02: And if you look actually at the Neutrogen Align, I mean they have so many sunscreens, and they have many sunscreens for kids sticks, sprays, and then other sunscreens that are certainly appropriate, as this mineral uh SPF 70 is.
25:04
SPEAKER_02: So there's just so many things that go into it.
25:06
SPEAKER_02: You know, as dermatologists, we I think probably don't appreciate sometimes the challenges that they have formulating things like this.
25:13
SPEAKER_02: And I know sunscreens are really hard.
25:15
SPEAKER_02: A lot of small companies stay away from sunscreens because they're so hard to formulate.
25:19
SPEAKER_03: Sometimes I give them um a pro tip for the parents to get them to wear it and reapply by using two formulations.
25:27
SPEAKER_03: So I'll have, for example, the cream that you like as the one where they have a little bit more time in the morning or before they go for school, and they can put that on a nice good layer that's effective.
25:40
SPEAKER_03: But then when they're actually out, very active, kids you want to keep it fun, keep them autonomous, they can get the stick and reapply.
25:47
SPEAKER_03: So if they're after school or it's beyond that time, and they, you know, parents don't have to worry about.
25:52
SPEAKER_03: I always hear the boys, since we're picking on boys, um, that they hate to that they hate to reapply because, for example, if they're playing baseball, their hands get all grimy.
26:03
SPEAKER_03: That's so true.
26:04
SPEAKER_03: And they don't want to use the creams.
26:06
SPEAKER_03: Exactly, which is understandable.
26:07
SPEAKER_03: So just really understanding the patient and their needs and their preferences.
26:11
SPEAKER_03: I like them to go out fully armored and then reapply with the sticks.
26:16
SPEAKER_03: It may not be perfect, but it's something.
26:18
SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
26:18
SPEAKER_03: Um, so again, if they have after-school activities or just to get them in the habit that reappl reapplication is still part of the game here.
26:27
SPEAKER_02: Right.
26:28
SPEAKER_02: Oh, that's such a good idea.
26:29
SPEAKER_02: I love that idea.
26:31
SPEAKER_02: Spray on the body too.
26:32
SPEAKER_03: Yeah, spray.
26:33
SPEAKER_03: You can spray the body for fast.
26:35
SPEAKER_03: Not in the face, aerosolized and then sticks on the face.
26:38
SPEAKER_03: The kids can do it, keep it fun for the kids.
26:41
SPEAKER_03: They don't mind doing that.
26:42
SPEAKER_02: I agree.
26:43
SPEAKER_02: Anything they'll do, you're right.
26:44
SPEAKER_02: The best sunscreen is the one you can get someone to use.
26:47
SPEAKER_02: So I want to finish by talking about sort of a niche product that's wildly popular again as a result of social media, and that's these acne patches.
26:56
SPEAKER_02: So, where do you guys stand on this, Katie?
26:58
SPEAKER_02: I know you've probably posted about it several times.
27:02
SPEAKER_01: You know, it's funny.
27:03
SPEAKER_01: When it first came out, I was like, well, you know, where are we going with this, right?
27:06
SPEAKER_01: Because it's not like what we had traditionally learned or taught around, you know, putting something all over for prevention, turning over the skin cells, right?
27:14
SPEAKER_01: Like as we would talk about the retinoid, etc.
27:17
SPEAKER_01: Right.
27:17
SPEAKER_01: Spot treatment is not what we do.
27:20
SPEAKER_01: But I am a fan overall now, in that I think it is useful in a few ways, right?
27:26
SPEAKER_01: It occludes the spot, it can wick away a little bit of that fluid.
27:29
SPEAKER_01: It blocks picking, which especially in the teen tween, like it's so tempting.
27:36
SPEAKER_01: It's there, the picking.
27:37
SPEAKER_01: We see a lot of acne excorie or excoriated acne lesions, which means they picked at it.
27:43
SPEAKER_01: Um, and so I do think that that is helpful to prevent some of that post-inflammatory change, potential scarring.
27:50
SPEAKER_01: And now, like you'll see at teens, they're like wearing them like.
27:55
SPEAKER_01: Exactly.
27:55
SPEAKER_01: I know, like, what is happening?
27:57
SPEAKER_01: Like everyone's just wearing them, and I'm like, just normalize this.
28:00
SPEAKER_02: Could we just normalize it?
28:02
SPEAKER_02: I think it's so cool.
28:03
SPEAKER_02: So many kids have acne and it can be so stressful.
28:05
SPEAKER_01: Right.
28:06
SPEAKER_01: And so this is something that feels like they're doing something, it's active.
28:10
SPEAKER_01: There, so I I'm I'm on board with it, and I think there's a role for sure.
28:15
SPEAKER_02: I agree.
28:16
SPEAKER_02: I'm sure you use them as well, Latanya.
28:19
SPEAKER_03: I absolutely love them, especially the non-medicated ones because it's really that hydrocholoid that's going to promote faster healing.
28:26
SPEAKER_03: So if they did get at something, we're gonna try and minimize the scarring, really discourage the touching and pitching, picking that we just spoke about, which is huge.
28:35
SPEAKER_03: And again, the psychosocial component, you're right.
28:38
SPEAKER_03: I find in my practice that there's kids that the younger generation that are really the heck is my hand, sorry.
28:44
SPEAKER_03: The younger gen okay, you call the kids today, I guess.
28:50
SPEAKER_03: I'm bringing the office home.
28:51
SPEAKER_03: The younger generations that we're proud and you know, proudly, but there's still uh pimple patches out there that are really nice where you, if you want a discrete coverage where it's more tan complex, and those are lovely because you know the older kids don't necessarily want to have these colorful shapes all over their face.
29:10
SPEAKER_03: And um, and I love when there's a variety of sizes that Neutrogena has for say where you can think about it.
29:17
SPEAKER_03: We do still get back acne.
29:19
SPEAKER_03: So for larger areas, or if you need a smaller, discrete, so the different sizes are helpful, you know, if you have a small blemish on your nose.
29:27
SPEAKER_03: But I absolutely love them.
29:28
SPEAKER_03: You can have fun with them, and they really do the job well.
29:31
SPEAKER_03: And, you know, this is where I have the conversation with the the preteens, the teens, that you know, acne.
29:38
SPEAKER_03: I just normalize it that we have acne because for the majority, they're going through healthy pubertal changes.
29:44
SPEAKER_03: And this is not about being perfect.
29:47
SPEAKER_03: You know, social media drives this, perhaps flawless skin.
29:51
SPEAKER_03: We need to be perfect, we can't have a blemish.
29:54
SPEAKER_03: And so this says, you know, blemishes, breakouts are normal, and we can manage it and we can protect your skin while it's healing.
30:03
SPEAKER_03: And again, a lot of those pickers I see are the type A students, the ones that are driven for perfection, the ones that really get really good grades.
30:10
SPEAKER_03: I can't tell you how many times when I hear that they're picking or scratching, I'm like, oh, I bet you get great grades, your straighties, and they're like, Yes.
30:18
SPEAKER_03: So I think these definitely have a role in our management for acne.
30:22
SPEAKER_02: I think so too.
30:23
SPEAKER_02: I agree with you, the Neutrogena patches with the two sizes makes it really nice.
30:28
SPEAKER_02: And they did some nice little studies with it, as they always do.
30:31
SPEAKER_02: And eight out of ten kids said that they weren't picking because they were using the hydrocolloid patches.
30:36
SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I mean, that's probably the best thing that they do.
30:39
SPEAKER_02: They also do reduce the um the lesion itself, as you know, fairly quickly because they're occlusive, but just to stop these kids from excoriating.
30:49
SPEAKER_02: And you're right.
30:50
SPEAKER_02: I mean, these poor children who are looking for perfection.
30:53
SPEAKER_02: I mean, I tell my grandkids that I'm like, that's a filter, guys.
30:57
SPEAKER_02: These people have filters on.
30:59
SPEAKER_02: Everybody in your classroom, look around your room, and everybody has a couple little pimples just like you do.
31:04
SPEAKER_03: And it's it's that's why they love Snapchat.
31:06
SPEAKER_03: I think that's like the intro because they love the filters.
31:09
SPEAKER_03: It's so fun, you know, it gets them in that.
31:12
SPEAKER_02: It is fun.
31:13
SPEAKER_02: And look, I you know, I'm gonna finish by commending you two for all your education.
31:17
SPEAKER_02: I mean, I'm gonna bow to you because social media to me is just like a thing I can't even wrap my arms around.
31:23
SPEAKER_02: It's so much work, and you guys do such great things.
31:27
SPEAKER_02: And it's so important that we have dermatologists on these platforms to dispel the myths, to give professional information, to help the moms and the grandmoms, because I get a lot of you know, questions.
31:39
SPEAKER_02: I do.
31:40
SPEAKER_02: I'm kind of a cool grandmom because I'm a dermatologist, and my grandkids are all little Sephora kids, they love skincare.
31:45
SPEAKER_02: They used to want to go like to get frozen yogurt, now they want to go to the Sephora.
31:50
SPEAKER_02: I mean, it's it's expensive.
31:52
SPEAKER_02: So you're the go-to person.
31:54
SPEAKER_02: Totally.
31:55
SPEAKER_02: I'm the go-to and I'm the pay to.
31:57
SPEAKER_02: So this is an expensive little thing that's happened, by the way.
32:00
SPEAKER_02: Allowance is no such thing as spending your allowance anymore.
32:04
SPEAKER_02: It's called grandparents.
32:05
SPEAKER_02: But anyway, it's a great time of life.
32:07
SPEAKER_02: I'm enjoying my grandkids tremendously.
32:10
SPEAKER_02: But this is a whole new phenomenon that we as dermatologists have to wrap our arms around.
32:14
SPEAKER_02: We have to, again, you know, make it an educational opportunity where we can teach parents how to deal with this, what products to let their kids use, what products they need to have their kids use, and then to teach the kids about self-care and all these great products that we talked about.
32:30
SPEAKER_02: So I can't thank you guys enough.
32:31
SPEAKER_02: I was so excited about this all day because I knew it was just going to be a great episode.
32:36
SPEAKER_02: The two perfect people, and I can't wait to see you guys along the road.
32:39
SPEAKER_02: We'll be at a meeting together soon, I'm sure.
32:46
SPEAKER_00: The Skin Care Through the Ages series is sponsored by Neutrogena.
32:50
SPEAKER_00: For over 90 years, Neutrogena has advanced skin health for all skin types with formulation expertise that combines scientifically proven ingredients and innovative technologies to deliver maximum efficacy and an unparalleled aesthetics experience.
33:06
SPEAKER_00: That's beauty to a science.
33:08
SPEAKER_00: To learn more about the products mentioned in the episodes, please visit the link in the description.