Latest / New Worlder / Episode #116: Elspeth Hay
Transcript
- 0:00This is the New Order Podcast,
- 0:02and I am one of your hosts,
- 0:03Nicholas Gill.
- 0:05SPEAKER_00: Co-host Juliana Duque will be joining shortly.
- 0:08SPEAKER_00: Today we are speaking with Elspeth Hay.
- 0:11She is the author of the new book,
- 0:13Feed Us With Trees,
- 0:14Nuts,
- 0:15and the Future of Food.
- 0:16The book helps us understand how many in Western society lost
- 0:21their relationship to
- 0:22SPEAKER_00: nut-producing trees.
- 0:24It explains how integral trees such as oaks,
- 0:27chestnuts,
- 0:27black walnuts,
- 0:28and hazelnuts
- 0:30are to forest ecosystems and how their nuts were once a staple
- 0:34in north american
- 0:35diets hay lives on cape cod and has been reporting on food in
- 0:40the environment for
- 0:41the past 15 years with the local food report a segment that has
- 0:46aired on a regional
- 0:47new england npr station despite growing up on a farm in maine
- 0:51it was a revelation
- 0:53when she found out that acorns were actually edible and it sent
- 0:57her down a rabbit
- 0:58SPEAKER_00: hole of curiosity that reshaped her understanding of food production,
- 1:02SPEAKER_00: not to mention how she understands the world.
- 1:05SPEAKER_00: In our conversation,
- 1:06we talk about the things that get in the way of returning trees
- 1:10and tree nuts into
- 1:11SPEAKER_00: our food supply.
- 1:12So things like land rights or a focus on yields that do not
- 1:16account for external cost.
- 1:19SPEAKER_00: Coincidentally, I have been on a tree nut
- 1:22SPEAKER_00: rabbit hole myself for the past few years.
- 1:25SPEAKER_00: It started with the chestnut trees I have in my land,
- 1:28which dropped so many nuts each year that I don't always know
- 1:31what to do with them.
- 1:32SPEAKER_00: Chestnuts have become a part of my seasonal diet.
- 1:37I eat them all the time now,
- 1:39and I've even planted a few hazelnut trees as well.
- 1:43Meanwhile,
- 1:43I've been researching Brazil nuts for the book I'm working on
- 1:46in the Amazon.
- 1:47SPEAKER_00: In some communities I have visited, these nuts remain a staple food.
- 1:52So the possibilities of how we can shift what we eat towards
- 1:56more sustainable
- 1:57SPEAKER_00: solutions are,
- 1:59SPEAKER_00: in fact,
- 1:59SPEAKER_00: a reality.
- 2:01SPEAKER_00: Elspeth's book is extremely helpful.
- 2:03She writes and talks about polyculture and how the yields of
- 2:07nut trees paired with
- 2:08other complementary crops are really not that far off from the
- 2:12amount of food
- 2:13SPEAKER_00: produced in industrial agriculture,
- 2:16SPEAKER_00: with few or none of the negative external factors.
- 2:21SPEAKER_00: Again, the book is Feed Us With Trees, Nuts, and the Future of Food.
- 2:25And I highly recommend you pick up a copy if you want to
- 2:28understand how we can feed
- 2:29SPEAKER_00: the world at peak population without destroying it.
- 2:34SPEAKER_00: If you haven't subscribed to my newsletter,
- 2:36SPEAKER_00: just go to newworlder.com or search for New Worlder on Substack.
- 2:42SPEAKER_00: It's free to subscribe.
- 2:43The paid subscribers get access to all of the content and the
- 2:46back archives.
- 2:47SPEAKER_00: Again, that's newworlder.com.
- 2:50Also,
- 2:50look for my books,
- 2:52such as the Latin American Cookbook at small bookstores
- 2:55everywhere.
- 2:56SPEAKER_00: Also, check out the New Worlder YouTube channel.
- 2:59We have full episodes there,
- 3:00including this one,
- 3:02as well as some clips and other video content.
- 3:04SPEAKER_00: Just go to youtube.com slash newworlder.
- 3:08SPEAKER_00: And as always, please subscribe, like us, and share this episode.
- 3:14It really helps this podcast get listened to and allows us to
- 3:17continue doing it.
- 3:20SPEAKER_00: So thank you and enjoy the show.
- 3:22SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 4:07SPEAKER_00: Hi, Elspeth.
- 4:08SPEAKER_00: How are you?
- 4:09SPEAKER_02: I'm doing great.
- 4:09SPEAKER_02: How are you?
- 4:10SPEAKER_02: Hi, Elspeth.
- 4:11SPEAKER_00: So it's really nice to speak with you.
- 4:13I really enjoyed reading your book,
- 4:15Feed Us with Trees,
- 4:17Nuts and the Future of Food.
- 4:18SPEAKER_00: I have it right here.
- 4:19SPEAKER_00: I've been reading it a lot for the last month.
- 4:23SPEAKER_00: And I've been really interested in tree nuts over the past few years,
- 4:27SPEAKER_00: just in my own work,
- 4:28SPEAKER_00: but also my personal life.
- 4:30So your book just kind of came along right at the perfect time
- 4:34for my own interest.
- 4:35SPEAKER_00: And I'm learning a lot.
- 4:37SPEAKER_00: Can you tell me how and why you first started thinking about tree nuts?
- 4:43SPEAKER_02: Yeah,
- 4:44SPEAKER_02: I'm a journalist on Cape Cod,
- 4:46and I've been reporting on food and the environment for our
- 4:48local NPR station for
- 4:50SPEAKER_02: about 15 years.
- 4:51And in 2019,
- 4:54a friend sent me a TEDx talk by a woman named Marcy Mayer,
- 4:57who's in Greece.
- 4:59and she calls herself an acorn ambassador and said that um
- 5:04acorns are edible which
- 5:06i did not know and that they're one of our oldest human foods
- 5:09and a staple food in
- 5:10a lot of places over the past 12 000 years and i didn't know
- 5:14any of this and i live
- 5:15in this giant oak forest that's all protected as part of the
- 5:18cape cod national
- 5:19seashore and so suddenly the woods around me which i'd always
- 5:24seen as a bit of an
- 5:25SPEAKER_02: impediment to food production
- 5:28I started looking at in a new way and I went pretty far down
- 5:31the tree nut rabbit
- 5:33SPEAKER_02: hole pretty quickly.
- 5:35SPEAKER_00: So what did you do?
- 5:36Did you just start gathering acorns and then did you know what
- 5:40to do with them once
- 5:41SPEAKER_00: you found them?
- 5:42SPEAKER_02: No, I did not know what to do.
- 5:45SPEAKER_02: I did start picking up acorns.
- 5:47I started reading a lot too about different cultures that
- 5:51either still eat acorns
- 5:53SPEAKER_02: or had in the past.
- 5:56SPEAKER_02: And from there started branching out,
- 5:58SPEAKER_02: realizing there were other nuts too that had been staple crops,
- 6:01SPEAKER_02: really like everyday foods like corn or wheat or rice.
- 6:06SPEAKER_02: And
- 6:07SPEAKER_02: That was pretty surprising to me.
- 6:09SPEAKER_02: And at first I thought,
- 6:11SPEAKER_02: oh,
- 6:11this must have been something they did in hilly areas where row
- 6:15crop agriculture
- 6:16SPEAKER_02: wasn't such an option.
- 6:17SPEAKER_02: But the more I learned,
- 6:19SPEAKER_02: the more I realized,
- 6:20SPEAKER_02: no,
- 6:20this was widespread in most cultures across the northern
- 6:25hemisphere until pretty
- 6:27SPEAKER_02: recently.
- 6:29and as my mom always likes to say i never stopped asking why
- 6:33she's i've been doing
- 6:34that since i was about three so then i was like well why like
- 6:38why would we stop
- 6:40eating this food that is super abundant so yeah i kind of just
- 6:44kept following that
- 6:46SPEAKER_00: so how important were tree nuts in north america prior to you know 1492
- 6:53SPEAKER_02: Well, it depends on where you are.
- 6:54SPEAKER_02: Um,
- 6:55SPEAKER_02: cause there are so many different,
- 6:58SPEAKER_02: uh,
- 6:58SPEAKER_02: native communities all over present day United States,
- 7:02SPEAKER_02: but it ranges from in some areas,
- 7:06SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 7:06SPEAKER_02: as much made up as much as 50% of some people's diets.
- 7:10SPEAKER_02: Um,
- 7:11SPEAKER_02: acorn,
- 7:11SPEAKER_02: this sort of like acorn soup,
- 7:13SPEAKER_02: um,
- 7:14SPEAKER_02: has been a traditional dish,
- 7:16SPEAKER_02: uh,
- 7:16SPEAKER_02: on the West coast in the present day,
- 7:18SPEAKER_02: California area for a long time for a lot of people.
- 7:21SPEAKER_02: Um,
- 7:22SPEAKER_02: And then in other areas,
- 7:25SPEAKER_02: there have been different uses like you can make acorns into flour,
- 7:29SPEAKER_02: you can make them into starch,
- 7:30SPEAKER_02: you can make them into oil,
- 7:31which I was really surprised by an oil that's like really
- 7:34similar chemically to
- 7:35SPEAKER_02: olive oil.
- 7:37SPEAKER_02: And this man in the 1950s,
- 7:40SPEAKER_02: I want to say his name was Harold Driver,
- 7:43SPEAKER_02: made this pretty cool map of North America.
- 7:46with like all the different ways that acorns were used in
- 7:50different places.
- 7:51SPEAKER_02: And so some places they were like processed with lye,
- 7:55SPEAKER_02: similar to corn externalization and use that way.
- 7:59SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 7:59SPEAKER_02: And then other places, flour.
- 8:02SPEAKER_02: So like it depends on where you are,
- 8:03but anywhere from like kind of a minor food to almost half of
- 8:07someone's diet.
- 8:08SPEAKER_02: So a big range.
- 8:10SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 8:10SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 8:10SPEAKER_00: That's crazy.
- 8:11SPEAKER_00: It's like,
- 8:12I kind of started going down this tree nut wormhole myself
- 8:18because I have chestnut
- 8:20SPEAKER_00: trees in my yard.
- 8:21SPEAKER_00: Like I moved to this house a few years ago and suddenly I have,
- 8:27SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 8:28SPEAKER_00: chestnuts,
- 8:29SPEAKER_00: a ton of them every year,
- 8:31SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 8:32SPEAKER_00: like from three trees and it's,
- 8:35SPEAKER_00: it's a ton of food from these three trees.
- 8:40And it's like,
- 8:40I,
- 8:41I collect them and it's like,
- 8:42I can't even eat them all.
- 8:43SPEAKER_00: Like I give them away or I,
- 8:45SPEAKER_00: last year I sold some just because I had so many like,
- 8:49SPEAKER_00: and I started digging into like,
- 8:50SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 8:51SPEAKER_00: what do I do with chestnuts and the side of that?
- 8:53SPEAKER_00: And like, why aren't people eating chestnuts?
- 8:56SPEAKER_00: This, this, you know, tree crop that's kind of everywhere where I live.
- 9:00SPEAKER_00: And then, you know, I learned about the blight, uh,
- 9:03you know,
- 9:03of the 1900s,
- 9:05late 1900s that kind of wiped out the American chestnut trees.
- 9:08But I started reading before that and just understanding how
- 9:13important at least
- 9:14SPEAKER_00: chestnuts were on the kind of East Coast to our,
- 9:18SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 9:18SPEAKER_00: food system.
- 9:19SPEAKER_00: And it was, it's just crazy how much they supplemented our diet.
- 9:25And I know acorns kind of did the same in other parts of the
- 9:28country as well.
- 9:31SPEAKER_02: Yeah,
- 9:32I spent some time in Appalachia when I was researching the book
- 9:36because I feel
- 9:37SPEAKER_02: like,
- 9:37SPEAKER_02: especially in the East here,
- 9:39that chestnut culture and the chestnut economy that really
- 9:42existed in a lot of
- 9:44SPEAKER_02: areas,
- 9:44SPEAKER_02: especially in the mountains,
- 9:46SPEAKER_02: was really present until quite recently.
- 9:49SPEAKER_02: So it seemed like the most,
- 9:51SPEAKER_02: the closest historical connection,
- 9:54SPEAKER_02: at least in the East,
- 9:55SPEAKER_02: to this abundance that we had once been tapped into.
- 9:59SPEAKER_02: It was pretty interesting being down there.
- 10:00SPEAKER_02: I went around to the historian, Ralph Lutz, and he took me
- 10:04to some general stores where they had these old ledgers that
- 10:06documented the
- 10:07chestnut trade and in some of these places collecting chestnuts
- 10:13so going out into
- 10:14the woods picking up chestnuts and bringing them into these
- 10:17little general stores
- 10:18which were kind of like scattered at the same distance as post
- 10:21offices so like
- 10:22SPEAKER_02: every little community had these stores and
- 10:27SPEAKER_02: In some areas,
- 10:28SPEAKER_02: when he looked at the records,
- 10:30SPEAKER_02: it was making up as much as a third to half of people's income,
- 10:35SPEAKER_02: at least for the store.
- 10:36So like in terms of when they would go in and purchase,
- 10:39everything was done on credit.
- 10:40SPEAKER_02: Right.
- 10:40SPEAKER_02: So there'd be this ledger.
- 10:42showing what they had bought and then on the other side things
- 10:44they had brought in
- 10:45and they brought in eggs and butter and whatever else was extra
- 10:49but it was like
- 10:50until september when the nuts started falling they were nowhere
- 10:53near close to
- 10:54making up their debt and then all of a sudden it was like the
- 10:57chestnuts and the
- 10:58chinkapins which are a smaller cousin of the american chestnut
- 11:02they would start
- 11:03SPEAKER_02: coming and they would
- 11:05pay off like half of their annual debt in a few weeks from
- 11:08bringing in these nuts
- 11:10and in that area where i was which was like sort of
- 11:13southwestern virginia um the
- 11:16blight the chestnut blight that killed the trees and the great
- 11:19depression happened
- 11:20SPEAKER_02: at the same time
- 11:22SPEAKER_02: And one of the women I talked to said that like here for them,
- 11:26SPEAKER_02: the great depression had nothing to do with stocks and all,
- 11:28SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 11:28SPEAKER_02: no one there was really involved in the stock market.
- 11:31It was about the trees and the death of those trees and this
- 11:35just total collapse of
- 11:38SPEAKER_02: a way of life.
- 11:39SPEAKER_00: It's really crazy to think about how much we relied on these forest,
- 11:45SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 11:45SPEAKER_00: just trees and nuts for so long.
- 11:48SPEAKER_00: And then it's just totally been displaced and, you know,
- 11:52decades and you know just that connection has been broken and i
- 11:56don't really know
- 11:57what it's been replaced by just like total shit you know just
- 12:01like cheap beef and
- 12:02SPEAKER_00: you know whatever else and it's it's really it's really sad
- 12:09SPEAKER_02: Yeah, it is really sad.
- 12:11SPEAKER_02: And, you know, a lot of it is pretty systemic.
- 12:14When I started looking at the history,
- 12:17it was pretty intentional in some places.
- 12:19SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 12:19SPEAKER_02: the chestnut blight was sort of an outlier in a lot of ways,
- 12:23SPEAKER_02: because when the US government first started sending
- 12:29SPEAKER_02: basically settler soldiers westward across the continent,
- 12:34one of the first things that they did in almost every place
- 12:37they went was start
- 12:38destroying indigenous food systems pretty systemically and very
- 12:44intentionally to
- 12:46SPEAKER_02: try to control people and to try to gain control of the land.
- 12:50SPEAKER_02: And the history was really confusing when I started reading it because
- 12:56these early Euro-American arrivals would get there and comment
- 13:00on the incredible
- 13:00SPEAKER_02: abundance of these food systems.
- 13:02SPEAKER_02: Like salmon's so thick,
- 13:04SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 13:04SPEAKER_02: you can walk across them,
- 13:06SPEAKER_02: trees raining these nuts,
- 13:09SPEAKER_02: geese,
- 13:09SPEAKER_02: like,
- 13:10SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 13:10SPEAKER_02: you couldn't even see the sky.
- 13:12And then within like a decade,
- 13:15as soon as that land was desired by Euro-American people,
- 13:18colonizers it was like oh these people don't know anything
- 13:22about growing food um
- 13:24you know they're idiots when it comes to food production it's
- 13:26like whoa wait what's
- 13:28going on here um and so there was this attempt to really paint
- 13:33these trees as an
- 13:35insignificant food source as a way of uh controlling the land
- 13:41and taking the land
- 13:42SPEAKER_02: and i think that's
- 13:45SPEAKER_02: That's something that we don't talk about a lot in public school history,
- 13:49SPEAKER_02: but that feed fight,
- 13:52SPEAKER_02: which is a term one historian I read called it,
- 13:56SPEAKER_02: was very systematic and involved the American government.
- 14:01SPEAKER_02: Even if you were a Euro-American settler,
- 14:03you had to farm the land with row crops for five years to get
- 14:06title to the land.
- 14:08There was this very systemic push for a very specific type of
- 14:12food production.
- 14:13SPEAKER_02: Now we're
- 14:15SPEAKER_02: you know, we're seeing the legacy of that.
- 14:18SPEAKER_00: Growing up,
- 14:18SPEAKER_00: like,
- 14:19SPEAKER_00: you read all these books,
- 14:20SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 14:21SPEAKER_00: just in grade school about,
- 14:24SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 14:24SPEAKER_00: the brave settlers and colonists that,
- 14:27SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 14:28SPEAKER_00: like all the hardships they face going across the land and,
- 14:32SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 14:33SPEAKER_00: and...
- 14:35SPEAKER_00: and trying to start a farm and,
- 14:37SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 14:37doing all these things and like all the answers were right in
- 14:40their face and they
- 14:41SPEAKER_00: were just kind of like destroying everything right in front of us.
- 14:46SPEAKER_00: And we still,
- 14:47SPEAKER_00: we're still getting this literature,
- 14:48SPEAKER_00: this little house on the prairie crap that,
- 14:51SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 14:51SPEAKER_00: that,
- 14:52SPEAKER_00: that is just like,
- 14:56SPEAKER_00: it's so bizarre that,
- 14:57SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 14:59SPEAKER_00: and I don't know about the school system now if we're having much hope,
- 15:03SPEAKER_00: what's going on with the Department of Education in this moment.
- 15:09SPEAKER_00: But it's like, Jesus Christ, like, can't we teach our kids something?
- 15:15SPEAKER_00: Something useful?
- 15:16SPEAKER_02: Yeah,
- 15:18SPEAKER_02: I think,
- 15:19SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 15:19SPEAKER_02: when I started digging through all this,
- 15:22SPEAKER_02: I was in this moment in my life where I had this like,
- 15:26SPEAKER_02: sort of realization about the power of story,
- 15:29which is ironic because I've been a journalist for a while and
- 15:32you would think I
- 15:32SPEAKER_02: already believed in the power of story.
- 15:35But I had this thing that happened with my back where I was in
- 15:39a lot of back pain.
- 15:40SPEAKER_02: My mom had always had a bad back and I just assumed,
- 15:44SPEAKER_02: or I believed that like,
- 15:45SPEAKER_02: I just had a bad back too.
- 15:46And that was something that had been handed down to me and it
- 15:48was genetic and there
- 15:50SPEAKER_02: wasn't much I could do about it.
- 15:52And I was going to get surgery and the surgery place sent me to
- 15:55this very specific PT place.
- 15:57SPEAKER_02: And they said like, you have to try this PT before you do anything else.
- 16:01SPEAKER_02: And I said, okay, fine.
- 16:02SPEAKER_02: You know, I'd done PT before, but I was like, it's not going to work.
- 16:06And this guy was like,
- 16:07he sat me down and he was like,
- 16:09there's nothing wrong with your back.
- 16:11The only thing that's wrong with your back is that you think
- 16:13there's something
- 16:14SPEAKER_02: wrong with your back.
- 16:15SPEAKER_02: And he convinced me, he told me a new story.
- 16:17And within a couple of weeks I was doing all this stuff that
- 16:21I'd always been afraid to do.
- 16:22SPEAKER_02: My back did not hurt anymore.
- 16:24And it was right around the same time as I was learning some of
- 16:27this tree nut stuff.
- 16:28And I got really interested in the way that the stories that
- 16:33we've absorbed as kids
- 16:36SPEAKER_02: are sort of controlling our ideas about what's possible and,
- 16:40and sort of informing our understanding of the world around us
- 16:45in these almost
- 16:46SPEAKER_02: invisible ways.
- 16:48SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 16:49SPEAKER_02: my whole life,
- 16:50SPEAKER_02: there'd been this food raining down in my house that like I hadn't seen.
- 16:53SPEAKER_02: And so I started wondering like, what else am I missing?
- 16:55Like,
- 16:56what else am I not understanding about the stories around food
- 17:00that I grew up with?
- 17:03SPEAKER_02: And so I started finding all these,
- 17:06SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 17:06I started kind of looking back at the books that I loved as a
- 17:09kid and finding all
- 17:10SPEAKER_02: these inconsistencies.
- 17:11SPEAKER_02: You know, you're talking about the settlers moving west.
- 17:14SPEAKER_02: And I had an American Girl doll,
- 17:16SPEAKER_02: which I don't know,
- 17:17SPEAKER_02: other girls my age,
- 17:18SPEAKER_02: I'm sure there's some of you out there listening.
- 17:20SPEAKER_02: I was just obsessed with this doll, Kirsten Larson.
- 17:24SPEAKER_02: And she was a Swedish immigrant who came to the U.S.
- 17:27SPEAKER_02: I mean, she's totally fictional.
- 17:28SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 17:29SPEAKER_02: came to the US in the 1850s.
- 17:33But the whole story in one part is about her friendship with
- 17:37this indigenous girl
- 17:38SPEAKER_02: from a imaginary unnamed tribe named Singing Bird.
- 17:43SPEAKER_02: And Singing Bird leaves partway through the book.
- 17:46And it basically says like her people are going west because
- 17:49there's not good
- 17:50SPEAKER_02: hunting anymore,
- 17:51SPEAKER_02: not enough food,
- 17:52SPEAKER_02: too many people on the land.
- 17:55SPEAKER_02: And I started examining some of those stories and it was like,
- 17:59SPEAKER_02: Every story I grew up with had some version of that,
- 18:02of like hunting and gathering is only possible for small groups
- 18:06of people on large
- 18:08SPEAKER_02: tracts of land.
- 18:09SPEAKER_02: And when things get more populated,
- 18:11we have to become farmers and we have to do these sort of
- 18:14monoculture row crops
- 18:15SPEAKER_02: because that's how you produce more food.
- 18:19SPEAKER_02: And that is not true.
- 18:21SPEAKER_02: Like, that's not true at all.
- 18:23SPEAKER_02: That is a story.
- 18:25SPEAKER_02: And I ended up really picking that one apart in the book.
- 18:29SPEAKER_02: But it just, it started to make me question everything.
- 18:31SPEAKER_02: Because I was like, wow, all these things are just stories.
- 18:35SPEAKER_02: They're assumptions that I grew up with and have never understood.
- 18:38SPEAKER_02: really questioned because I thought they were facts.
- 18:43SPEAKER_02: So yeah, that's been an interesting process of unlearning and relearning.
- 18:49SPEAKER_01: I was fed part of the work you have done is,
- 18:52SPEAKER_01: and the thinking,
- 18:55SPEAKER_01: it goes beyond the agricultural side,
- 18:57SPEAKER_01: which is a great part of it,
- 18:59SPEAKER_01: but it has to do with,
- 19:00SPEAKER_01: it has so many layers,
- 19:02SPEAKER_01: right?
- 19:02SPEAKER_01: Like the spiritual, the psychological,
- 19:05SPEAKER_01: the environmental,
- 19:06SPEAKER_01: the philosophical,
- 19:07SPEAKER_01: and it's so connected with history,
- 19:11SPEAKER_01: your background,
- 19:11SPEAKER_01: your legacy,
- 19:12SPEAKER_01: your ancestors,
- 19:13SPEAKER_01: people ancestors.
- 19:15How,
- 19:16for people that is not familiar with this,
- 19:18how can you layer that for us?
- 19:21So how do you express all this complex system in your
- 19:26educational work,
- 19:27in the book,
- 19:28so that
- 19:30SPEAKER_01: Maybe people can be practical about it,
- 19:32SPEAKER_01: but they understand it goes beyond just planting or replanting,
- 19:37SPEAKER_01: right?
- 19:37SPEAKER_01: Because if you don't understand that cosmos,
- 19:39SPEAKER_01: then the whole thing in a way is missing the point,
- 19:44SPEAKER_01: right?
- 19:45SPEAKER_02: Yeah, very much so.
- 19:47When I was writing the book and sort of learning about people
- 19:51who are planting
- 19:53SPEAKER_02: these trees now,
- 19:54SPEAKER_02: I noticed that
- 19:56SPEAKER_02: There were different approaches.
- 19:58SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 19:58some people were basically trying to recreate the row crop
- 20:01system that we have just
- 20:03SPEAKER_02: with these tree species,
- 20:04SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 20:05SPEAKER_02: spraying for pesticides,
- 20:07SPEAKER_02: doing a monoculture of chestnuts or whatever it is.
- 20:10SPEAKER_02: And then other people had these real polycultures going,
- 20:14SPEAKER_02: these really layered systems where they were
- 20:19SPEAKER_02: thinking a little more holistically, a little more big picture.
- 20:23And so as I kind of followed this history,
- 20:27I just kept wondering,
- 20:29you know,
- 20:32SPEAKER_02: how did we get to where we are?
- 20:33SPEAKER_02: Because I feel like if we don't understand that,
- 20:35we're just gonna do the same thing we've done with the rest of
- 20:39industrial farming
- 20:40SPEAKER_02: with these tree species.
- 20:42SPEAKER_02: And that doesn't really represent true change to me.
- 20:45SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 20:46SPEAKER_02: it's a bit of an improvement,
- 20:47SPEAKER_02: I guess,
- 20:48SPEAKER_02: on like a carbon soil level,
- 20:50SPEAKER_02: but on a systemic biodiversity,
- 20:53SPEAKER_02: cultural,
- 20:55SPEAKER_02: colonial healing level,
- 20:57SPEAKER_02: like it's not really doing that much.
- 21:00SPEAKER_02: And so I just kept going back.
- 21:02I kept going further back in the history until I could really
- 21:05figure out the source
- 21:07SPEAKER_02: of the rupture.
- 21:09And to me,
- 21:09I have a lot of English,
- 21:12German and French ancestry,
- 21:14but mostly English.
- 21:15And I learned this history that I didn't know about,
- 21:20about the enclosures movement in England.
- 21:23which was sort of this internal colonization of the country
- 21:26that happened before
- 21:28SPEAKER_02: people like my ancestors migrated to North America.
- 21:32SPEAKER_02: And I feel like that is really this missing piece of the conversation.
- 21:38SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 21:40SPEAKER_02: along the way with some of this work,
- 21:41I got to know an indigenous medicine man and cultural biologist
- 21:45named Ron Reed,
- 21:47SPEAKER_02: who's Kurok.
- 21:48SPEAKER_02: He's in present day California in the northern part.
- 21:51SPEAKER_02: And his people have relied on acorns since time immemorial.
- 21:54And they have a really sort of complex series of ecological and
- 22:01spiritual beliefs
- 22:02SPEAKER_02: that all come together around tending these oak ecosystems.
- 22:06SPEAKER_02: And they call themselves fix the world people.
- 22:09SPEAKER_02: And every time after I talked to Ron,
- 22:10SPEAKER_02: I would just be like,
- 22:12SPEAKER_02: I don't understand why are they fix the world people and my people are
- 22:20SPEAKER_02: just these destroyers, destroying everything in our path ecologically.
- 22:25SPEAKER_02: How do we get to this point?
- 22:28And when I started learning about basically this internal
- 22:31colonization of England
- 22:33and the British Isles that happened before that colonization
- 22:36moved outwards and
- 22:37SPEAKER_02: started perpetuating that trauma in other places,
- 22:42I was always told that my ancestors came here because it was a
- 22:44land of opportunity,
- 22:46SPEAKER_02: right?
- 22:46SPEAKER_02: That was the story that I learned as a kid.
- 22:49SPEAKER_02: And really most people who came here,
- 22:50about 25% of people came here because they wanted to and 75%
- 22:56from that early
- 22:57English migration came because they were forced off their own
- 23:00land and separated
- 23:02SPEAKER_02: from their own woodland ecosystems during this enclosure process.
- 23:07SPEAKER_02: And so there's this whole history that we don't talk about.
- 23:12SPEAKER_02: And I think if we don't talk about it, we can't heal it.
- 23:15SPEAKER_02: We can't,
- 23:16SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 23:16SPEAKER_02: we can't start mending those relationships,
- 23:19SPEAKER_02: both with the other people who were already here before us,
- 23:23SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 23:23SPEAKER_02: with indigenous people here and with
- 23:26SPEAKER_02: African-American people whose lineage involves people who were enslaved.
- 23:31SPEAKER_02: And I just think that it sounds like,
- 23:34SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 23:34SPEAKER_02: there's a lot to throw into a book about tree nuts.
- 23:37SPEAKER_02: But as I kept going,
- 23:38SPEAKER_02: it was like,
- 23:39I really can't tell this story without grappling with these
- 23:43questions because
- 23:44SPEAKER_02: they're really connected because it's about a relationship with a place.
- 23:49SPEAKER_02: Right.
- 23:49SPEAKER_02: And
- 23:50If you don't understand how you got to that place and what
- 23:53human relationships led
- 23:54SPEAKER_02: you to that,
- 23:54you're not going to be able to deal with the ecological
- 23:57relationships that you're
- 23:58SPEAKER_02: trying to repair.
- 24:00SPEAKER_01: And connected with that, that's great.
- 24:02SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
- 24:03SPEAKER_01: Connected with that,
- 24:04how would you define a local food system for people that are
- 24:08not necessarily
- 24:09SPEAKER_01: familiar with that,
- 24:11SPEAKER_01: with that idea,
- 24:12SPEAKER_01: that approach?
- 24:13SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I mean, people have different definitions.
- 24:16SPEAKER_02: You know, some people limit it to 10 miles or 100 miles or a watershed.
- 24:21I think that one thing that has really stuck out for me in
- 24:27terms of defining a
- 24:28SPEAKER_02: local food system,
- 24:30SPEAKER_02: the more I've been thinking about these tree nuts,
- 24:32SPEAKER_02: is this theme of keystone species.
- 24:35So as I started learning about oak trees and their history as a
- 24:39food source,
- 24:41SPEAKER_02: they're also a keystone species.
- 24:44SPEAKER_02: So they're a species that's incredibly important ecologically,
- 24:47SPEAKER_02: and so are a lot of these other nut trees.
- 24:51And so they take care of their ecosystems in a way that not
- 24:55every species can.
- 24:57SPEAKER_02: They host a lot of insect life.
- 24:58SPEAKER_02: That insect life in turn works its way up the food web.
- 25:01So they're as important to their ecosystems as a keystone in
- 25:05the Roman arch.
- 25:05SPEAKER_02: That's why they're called that.
- 25:08And the more I've thought about like,
- 25:09well,
- 25:10what can we do to localize food production?
- 25:12SPEAKER_02: And what does a local food system really look like?
- 25:15I think any successful local food system on the ecological
- 25:18level has to be centered
- 25:22SPEAKER_02: in some way on these keystone species.
- 25:25And that might mean,
- 25:26you know,
- 25:27animals are eating the food from these keystone species.
- 25:29SPEAKER_02: It doesn't necessarily have to mean it's like your top human food.
- 25:34SPEAKER_02: But
- 25:35SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 25:36SPEAKER_02: through the process of this book,
- 25:37I've been talking to people all over and I've been getting that
- 25:39question a lot
- 25:40SPEAKER_02: about how do we relocalize food?
- 25:42And I think it starts with getting into relationship with these
- 25:46keystone species,
- 25:47SPEAKER_02: whatever they are in your area.
- 25:48It might not be an oak tree if you're in the southern
- 25:50hemisphere or somewhere else,
- 25:53SPEAKER_02: but their oaks are like the top.
- 25:55SPEAKER_02: life support genus in, I think, 84% of North American counties.
- 26:00SPEAKER_02: So in a lot of places around here, it's a good place to start.
- 26:05SPEAKER_02: And if you start with that big relationship,
- 26:08SPEAKER_02: it kind of,
- 26:09SPEAKER_02: then you learn what other species are in relationship with oaks and other
- 26:12SPEAKER_02: keystones.
- 26:13SPEAKER_02: And you can kind of build on that, if that makes sense.
- 26:16If you understand that,
- 26:18then you can follow the logic and work around that in a way
- 26:21that
- 26:22SPEAKER_02: Yeah,
- 26:23SPEAKER_02: I think I used to think of it in terms of the miles,
- 26:27SPEAKER_02: and now I feel like I'm more focused on,
- 26:28SPEAKER_02: like,
- 26:29SPEAKER_02: okay,
- 26:30just get to know these species that are here and then figure
- 26:33out how to work with
- 26:33SPEAKER_02: them.
- 26:34SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's a different mindset, right?
- 26:37SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 26:38I was really pleased in the book where you talk a lot about
- 26:42yields because,
- 26:43SPEAKER_00: like,
- 26:43I've seen so much over the last six months probably just on the
- 26:48Internet of just –
- 26:50People talking about yields and,
- 26:51you know,
- 26:52it's that's what farmers talk about.
- 26:53SPEAKER_00: It's what the government supports,
- 26:55SPEAKER_00: how to grow as much food as possible,
- 26:57SPEAKER_00: even if it's the same goddamn nine things.
- 26:59You know,
- 26:59I saw a pretty well-known journalist the other day talking
- 27:03about,
- 27:03like,
- 27:03feedlots.
- 27:04SPEAKER_00: And it was just,
- 27:05SPEAKER_00: like,
- 27:06SPEAKER_00: killing me because,
- 27:07SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 27:07SPEAKER_00: he was saying,
- 27:09SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 27:09SPEAKER_00: that,
- 27:10SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 27:10the feedlots can produce a lot of beef in a small amount of
- 27:14area rather than,
- 27:15SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 27:16SPEAKER_00: grass-fed beef that could actually be destroying the land of,
- 27:19SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 27:20SPEAKER_00: for cutting down grazing land,
- 27:21SPEAKER_00: blah,
- 27:21SPEAKER_00: blah,
- 27:21SPEAKER_00: blah,
- 27:22SPEAKER_00: whatever.
- 27:22So,
- 27:23you know,
- 27:23when people talk about yields,
- 27:24you know,
- 27:24they're talking about...
- 27:26SPEAKER_00: A lot of the times in the U.S., they're talking about corn.
- 27:29SPEAKER_00: You know,
- 27:30it's twice as productive as the most productive chestnut trees
- 27:34per acre or
- 27:35SPEAKER_00: something like that,
- 27:36SPEAKER_00: I think I read in the book.
- 27:37But there's all these costs that go unaccounted for,
- 27:40which you talk about.
- 27:41And,
- 27:41you know,
- 27:42monocultures require 60 times more input than polyculture
- 27:46planting.
- 27:47SPEAKER_00: 99% of corn isn't even consumed in the US.
- 27:50SPEAKER_00: It's for like ethanol or for feeding animals.
- 27:53SPEAKER_00: And also it's heavily subsidized.
- 27:55And you met a guy who was planting chestnuts and pawpaws
- 28:00together and the yields
- 28:02SPEAKER_00: were actually approaching something like the most productive corn,
- 28:08SPEAKER_00: industrial corn.
- 28:09SPEAKER_00: And I found that fascinating that there's been no support
- 28:13over figuring out yields of a natural ecosystem for so many
- 28:18years it's all just
- 28:19been in you know how can we industrialize food so much get as
- 28:24much per acre as
- 28:26possible without all the additional costs that we're not taking
- 28:29into effect all the
- 28:30pollution you know the land degradation the soil degradation
- 28:35all these things and
- 28:37you were you found a guy that was you know doing this with
- 28:40chestnuts and pawpaws
- 28:41SPEAKER_00: and also raising his sheep
- 28:44SPEAKER_00: under the trees and they were foraging for the nuts.
- 28:47SPEAKER_00: And it's not even taking into account all of the other animals,
- 28:51SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 28:51SPEAKER_00: coming to feed on the nuts.
- 28:53SPEAKER_00: I don't know if he was hunting or not,
- 28:54SPEAKER_00: but depending on how someone lived,
- 28:57SPEAKER_00: that could be a factor.
- 28:59SPEAKER_00: And it's just,
- 29:00we really need to rethink how we think about these natural
- 29:04systems in a way and how
- 29:06SPEAKER_00: can we
- 29:07develop these systems in a way that isn't like destroying
- 29:10everything but doesn't
- 29:11have all these unaccounted for cost you know all the all these
- 29:16all this bad shit
- 29:17that we don't talk about you know the guy talking about the
- 29:19feedlots the other day
- 29:21he didn't once mention that you know those feedlots were using
- 29:25corn to or whatever
- 29:26SPEAKER_00: grains to feed these cows and that takes so much land you know it's so
- 29:31SPEAKER_00: short-sighted
- 29:34SPEAKER_02: Well, yeah, and it's also efficient.
- 29:37SPEAKER_02: It's bad math.
- 29:38SPEAKER_02: It's really not actual math.
- 29:42One of the most impactful people I spoke to when I was really
- 29:46trying to get to the
- 29:47SPEAKER_02: bottom,
- 29:47SPEAKER_02: this yield thing,
- 29:48SPEAKER_02: because it just kept bugging me.
- 29:49SPEAKER_02: I was like, it does something about this doesn't make sense.
- 29:52SPEAKER_02: There's a problem with this yield math.
- 29:55SPEAKER_02: And
- 29:56SPEAKER_02: I couldn't really figure it out for a while.
- 29:57I kept thinking about this class I'd taken in college where I
- 30:01learned about
- 30:01SPEAKER_02: externalities for the first time.
- 30:03SPEAKER_02: It was like senior year.
- 30:04SPEAKER_02: I was taking econ 101 to fulfill some requirement.
- 30:07SPEAKER_02: And the professor started telling us about externalities.
- 30:10SPEAKER_02: And I was like,
- 30:12SPEAKER_02: oh,
- 30:13these are just all the unaccounted for costs that are part of
- 30:16this magical
- 30:17SPEAKER_02: equation.
- 30:18And I ended up interviewing in the process of thinking about
- 30:22this with yield,
- 30:23SPEAKER_02: this agronomist named Ricardo Salvador,
- 30:26SPEAKER_02: and he's really smart guy,
- 30:28SPEAKER_02: really interesting.
- 30:29SPEAKER_02: And he reminded me that yield is a ratio.
- 30:33SPEAKER_02: So yield is measuring what you get out for what you put in.
- 30:38SPEAKER_02: And if we, you know, we can look at that in different ways.
- 30:41We can look at that in terms of money,
- 30:43but we can also look at it in terms of land.
- 30:45SPEAKER_02: And when we say that these,
- 30:47SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 30:47SPEAKER_02: super productive cornfields are high yielding and they're outproducing,
- 30:53SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 30:53SPEAKER_02: all these other kinds of crops and especially polycultures.
- 30:58We're not counting the land that goes into overproducing on
- 31:03that little plot of land.
- 31:05So,
- 31:06you know,
- 31:06someone who's producing,
- 31:08there's some guy who broke the world record.
- 31:10SPEAKER_02: I can't remember now.
- 31:11SPEAKER_02: It's like 32,000 pounds, tons.
- 31:16I actually can't remember the figure right now,
- 31:17but this insane amount of corn per acre.
- 31:21And like,
- 31:21we're not counting the land that grew the seed to do that corn.
- 31:26We're not counting the land that it took to create the
- 31:29machinery to produce that
- 31:31SPEAKER_02: corn,
- 31:32SPEAKER_02: the land that it took to produce the fossil fuels to grow that corn,
- 31:35SPEAKER_02: the land that it takes to absorb the pollution from that.
- 31:38SPEAKER_02: Like we are not doing an accurate land cost analysis.
- 31:44SPEAKER_02: And when you do that, when you start measuring, you know,
- 31:49all the land used to produce all the food that comes off of a
- 31:52given piece of land,
- 31:54SPEAKER_02: the high yield of those monocultures completely disappears.
- 31:58And if we're actually thinking about feeding the world with
- 32:02land as a limiting
- 32:03SPEAKER_02: factor,
- 32:04SPEAKER_02: which it very much is,
- 32:05SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 32:06SPEAKER_02: how much land do we need to feed everyone in the world?
- 32:09SPEAKER_02: That's about the least efficient way that we could possibly produce food.
- 32:13SPEAKER_02: It doesn't make any sense when you factor in all the land
- 32:19SPEAKER_02: And I think that part of that,
- 32:20SPEAKER_02: when we have the yield conversation,
- 32:23SPEAKER_02: we tend to confuse ecology with economics.
- 32:28SPEAKER_02: It might make a lot of economic sense to do things that way.
- 32:31SPEAKER_02: I think that's fairly well established.
- 32:34But the economic system is just an imaginary game of rules that
- 32:39we made up.
- 32:39SPEAKER_02: It has nothing to do with ecological law or with the ecology of yield.
- 32:45and yield is very much ecological it's it's not economical uh
- 32:50at its basis it's
- 32:51like how much photosynthesis can this land do how many calories
- 32:56can it produce uh
- 32:58and when we start looking at that the polycultures are they're
- 33:01always more
- 33:01productive this fully functioning sort of i tend to think of it
- 33:05as like 3d versus
- 33:06SPEAKER_02: like a flat piece of paper right like
- 33:08If you have this land with trees and animals moving under the
- 33:12trees and other
- 33:12SPEAKER_02: species,
- 33:13SPEAKER_02: like all this diversity mixed in,
- 33:15SPEAKER_02: you're always going to get more photosynthesis,
- 33:18SPEAKER_02: more energy production,
- 33:19SPEAKER_02: more food.
- 33:21SPEAKER_02: They've done studies.
- 33:23One of the farmers I spoke with found me these really cool
- 33:26studies of oak savanna
- 33:28SPEAKER_02: versus cornfield,
- 33:29which happened to be like the two ecosystems that I was very
- 33:31interested in.
- 33:33SPEAKER_02: And when you look at the photosynthesis capacity,
- 33:36SPEAKER_02: It's incredibly high in an oak savanna and much lower in a cornfield.
- 33:41SPEAKER_02: So,
- 33:43SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 33:43that's sort of phase number one of why we don't need to produce
- 33:48food this way is
- 33:49SPEAKER_02: it's not efficient in terms of actual land use.
- 33:51SPEAKER_02: But the other part,
- 33:52SPEAKER_02: like you said,
- 33:52is we're actually not eating all this food that we say that we
- 33:55have to produce to
- 33:56SPEAKER_02: feed the world.
- 33:58SPEAKER_02: which is a big red flag,
- 34:00SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 34:00SPEAKER_02: if we're saying like,
- 34:01SPEAKER_02: we have to do this to feed everyone,
- 34:03SPEAKER_02: and then we're only eating 1% of that food,
- 34:05SPEAKER_02: well,
- 34:06SPEAKER_02: obviously,
- 34:07we don't have to do this to feed everyone that can't possibly
- 34:11be true if we're not
- 34:12SPEAKER_02: eating it.
- 34:13SPEAKER_02: So I think that there's been a very, very carefully crafted
- 34:19SPEAKER_02: narrative around yield that doesn't line up with any of the facts.
- 34:23SPEAKER_02: And when you look at that,
- 34:24these trees are super productive and are a very efficient way
- 34:29to produce a lot of
- 34:30SPEAKER_01: food.
- 34:31SPEAKER_01: But I also say it depends on how you describe economics, right?
- 34:36SPEAKER_01: Because,
- 34:37SPEAKER_01: yeah,
- 34:37you can divide this to ways of looking at production and when
- 34:43it's successful or
- 34:44SPEAKER_01: not,
- 34:45SPEAKER_01: right?
- 34:45SPEAKER_01: And consumption.
- 34:46But it depends on how you understand for economy and economics
- 34:50and what are the
- 34:51SPEAKER_01: values supporting that way of defining economy.
- 34:55SPEAKER_01: So because economy is related with wealth and the wealth of a region,
- 35:01SPEAKER_01: nation,
- 35:02SPEAKER_01: macro region in terms of production and consumption,
- 35:06SPEAKER_01: right,
- 35:06SPEAKER_01: of goods and services.
- 35:08If you define that well in ecological terms,
- 35:11then it doesn't make sense economically either.
- 35:15so i agree yeah you know and in honor in other uh many ways it
- 35:21doesn't make sense
- 35:22so i think the story and the narrative affects that definition
- 35:28too yeah very much
- 35:30so elspeth have you seen are people starting to eat acorns
- 35:35where you live or any
- 35:37SPEAKER_00: other tree nuts have you seen any kind of movement yeah i
- 35:43SPEAKER_02: I see a really strong movement beginning in the Midwest.
- 35:48SPEAKER_02: Where I am on Cape Cod, we don't have a lot of farmland.
- 35:53SPEAKER_02: And I think as a result,
- 35:54we have just less interest in farm culture and agroforestry and
- 36:00these sort of
- 36:01SPEAKER_02: shifts in general.
- 36:02SPEAKER_02: But I was just at the
- 36:04a joint conference of the Northern Nut Growers Association and
- 36:07the Chestnut Growers of America.
- 36:08So there's all these nonprofits springing up in the Midwest
- 36:13around trying to
- 36:14transition back to some of these native crops that are part of
- 36:19those ecosystems
- 36:20SPEAKER_02: historically.
- 36:21Oak Savannah once covered a huge area of the Midwest thanks to
- 36:25indigenous burning and tending.
- 36:27SPEAKER_02: And so this nonprofit in particular called the Savannah Institute
- 36:30is working with a lot of farmers in the Midwest to transition
- 36:34from soy and corn to
- 36:37SPEAKER_02: hazelnuts and chestnuts.
- 36:40SPEAKER_02: Some people are doing it as a polyculture,
- 36:43SPEAKER_02: some people are doing it as more of a monoculture,
- 36:45but there is a broad conversation happening in these farm
- 36:49communities and a lot of
- 36:51SPEAKER_02: momentum and excitement building around these perennial tree crops.
- 36:55SPEAKER_02: So that's been really fun to see.
- 36:58SPEAKER_00: Cool.
- 36:58SPEAKER_00: No, that's amazing.
- 36:59SPEAKER_00: I grew up in Ohio and I've told this story here before.
- 37:02You know,
- 37:03I grew up in the suburbs of Columbus and I was not exposed to
- 37:08anything.
- 37:09Like a farm to me was just the things on the side of the
- 37:11highway that just grew,
- 37:12SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 37:13SPEAKER_00: industrial corn.
- 37:14SPEAKER_00: It was just miles and miles of the same,
- 37:16SPEAKER_00: like they looked exactly the same every stock and you never ate it.
- 37:21SPEAKER_00: You never had any touch with it.
- 37:23SPEAKER_00: There was a human behind it.
- 37:24SPEAKER_00: So to see people...
- 37:26thinking in places like that and I know they are in Ohio and
- 37:30other parts of the
- 37:30Midwest as well just disrupting that way of thinking just for
- 37:37kids to look and see
- 37:40SPEAKER_00: what's growing and what the land can do is I think extremely positive
- 37:47SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 37:47And I think part of what's happened is there were these sort of
- 37:50early adopters like
- 37:52SPEAKER_02: 30 years ago.
- 37:52SPEAKER_02: And a lot of those farms are now like the farm that you mentioned,
- 37:56SPEAKER_02: which is Redfern Farm,
- 37:57where they have the chestnuts and the pawpaws and all these
- 38:00other edible fruits and
- 38:01SPEAKER_02: nuts with sheep underneath.
- 38:03they've gotten to this size of maturity where people can visit
- 38:07and they can see it.
- 38:08SPEAKER_02: And it's something tangible.
- 38:10SPEAKER_02: Like when I visited there,
- 38:11SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 38:11SPEAKER_02: you drive through cornfield after cornfield after cornfield.
- 38:13And then you get to this little oasis of red front farm with
- 38:17all the trees and the sheep.
- 38:19SPEAKER_02: And it's one of the only places where you look around and you think,
- 38:22SPEAKER_02: Oh,
- 38:22SPEAKER_02: there's something to eat here,
- 38:23SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 38:24SPEAKER_02: cause it's,
- 38:25SPEAKER_02: there's different things in season at different times.
- 38:26SPEAKER_02: It's not just this one,
- 38:28crop and i talked to one grower who had been watching them for
- 38:3330 years and he
- 38:34finally said okay what they're doing is working it makes sense
- 38:39and there's enough
- 38:39support now from groups like the non-profits i've mentioned and
- 38:44you know even some
- 38:44of the government conservation agencies for like soil health
- 38:48support that they felt
- 38:50SPEAKER_02: like
- 38:51SPEAKER_02: we've seen enough that we feel comfortable transitioning.
- 38:55And so I think that we're at this point where there really are
- 38:59model farms that
- 39:01SPEAKER_02: growers can look to and decide
- 39:04Yeah,
- 39:05I think it makes sense,
- 39:06which I don't think that we had 30 years ago.
- 39:08You know,
- 39:08I don't think there were enough examples for it to become a
- 39:11little more mainstream.
- 39:14SPEAKER_02: And like you said, you know, there weren't kids seeing it like now.
- 39:17I think it's it's becoming a little more tangible in some of
- 39:20these areas where
- 39:22SPEAKER_02: people have really got them going and they're mature.
- 39:27SPEAKER_00: So have you been begun eating acorns?
- 39:30SPEAKER_00: Like, is it like a staple of your diet now?
- 39:34SPEAKER_02: I wouldn't say I've gotten all the way to staple,
- 39:35SPEAKER_02: but I've definitely started gathering and processing and eating acorns.
- 39:41SPEAKER_02: I have more to learn before I get all the way to staple crop.
- 39:45SPEAKER_02: But it's been a lot of fun.
- 39:47SPEAKER_02: One of the first things I learned is like an acorn is not just an acorn.
- 39:50SPEAKER_02: I'd be talking to people in Greece and California and the Midwest.
- 39:55SPEAKER_00: What is the processing like today?
- 39:58SPEAKER_02: It involves, so acorns have tannins, just like olives.
- 40:03So I don't know if anyone listening has ever picked an olive
- 40:05off a tree and tried
- 40:06SPEAKER_02: to put it in their mouth,
- 40:07SPEAKER_02: but you would be in for an extremely unpleasant experience.
- 40:11SPEAKER_02: I did it once.
- 40:12SPEAKER_02: You spit it out.
- 40:13SPEAKER_02: It tastes awful.
- 40:14SPEAKER_02: And acorns share that same chemical,
- 40:17SPEAKER_02: those tannins,
- 40:19SPEAKER_02: which on the one hand are great because they're preservative.
- 40:21But on the other hand,
- 40:22when you actually want to eat them,
- 40:23you really want to get them out.
- 40:25SPEAKER_02: So any kind of acorn eating involves leaching.
- 40:28SPEAKER_02: which is basically running cold water or warm water,
- 40:32depending on the product you're trying to make through acorns
- 40:36until those tannins
- 40:36SPEAKER_02: come out.
- 40:37SPEAKER_02: The tannins are water soluble.
- 40:39SPEAKER_02: So what I usually do is gather acorns in the fall, dry them out.
- 40:44I kind of like put them in a basket or on a baking sheet near
- 40:49my wood stove or in a
- 40:50SPEAKER_02: dry sunny spot.
- 40:51Just let them dry for a little while because they're a lot
- 40:53easier to shell once they've dried.
- 40:55SPEAKER_02: The, the,
- 40:57You know,
- 40:57nut meat doesn't stick to the outside of the shell once they're
- 41:00dry.
- 41:00SPEAKER_02: Then there's this nutcracker.
- 41:02SPEAKER_02: If you start talking to acorn people,
- 41:04SPEAKER_02: most people have a Dave built,
- 41:06SPEAKER_02: which is this sort of hand crank.
- 41:08nutcracker that you can run the acorns through um so you shell
- 41:12them and then it
- 41:14depends what you want to make some people make oil which you
- 41:17actually it that's
- 41:19just the fat so it doesn't have those bitter tannins in so you
- 41:22can just press them
- 41:23into oil some species are better for oil than others because
- 41:27not not all acorns are
- 41:29SPEAKER_02: the same that's one confusing thing about acorns is like
- 41:32You can be talking to someone in Greece or California and
- 41:34you're talking about
- 41:35SPEAKER_02: acorns,
- 41:36SPEAKER_02: which you think is the same thing.
- 41:37SPEAKER_02: And then it turns out, no, they have really oily ones.
- 41:40SPEAKER_02: You have really starchy ones.
- 41:42SPEAKER_02: But mostly around here, what I collect, I've been using to make flour.
- 41:45SPEAKER_02: The best home method that I've found is to basically take the nut meats,
- 41:49SPEAKER_02: once you've taken off the shells,
- 41:51SPEAKER_02: to put them in a Vitamix with cold water.
- 41:53SPEAKER_02: And I don't want to do a Vitamix ad, but I've tried other blenders and...
- 41:58SPEAKER_02: They don't work for acorns.
- 42:00SPEAKER_02: So specifically for acorns, I do recommend the Vitamix.
- 42:03SPEAKER_02: It makes it in this incredibly fine pulverized flour,
- 42:07SPEAKER_02: which you could also do by hand with a mortar and pestle.
- 42:10SPEAKER_02: It would take a while.
- 42:11And then I spent some time at this place called the Maine Local
- 42:16Living School,
- 42:17SPEAKER_02: and their method is what I like the best.
- 42:18SPEAKER_02: They basically run lukewarm water on
- 42:22SPEAKER_02: through that acorn flower very slowly.
- 42:25They put it on a trickle and they line like a colander with
- 42:29cheesecloth and put the
- 42:31acorn meal in there and just let that warm water trickle
- 42:34through it for a few
- 42:35SPEAKER_02: hours.
- 42:37SPEAKER_02: And with the species that we have here that I'm using a lot,
- 42:40SPEAKER_02: which is white oak and northern red oak,
- 42:42SPEAKER_02: so Quercus alva and Quercus rubra,
- 42:45SPEAKER_02: or rubris.
- 42:46SPEAKER_02: I might get that wrong.
- 42:48SPEAKER_02: That seems to work pretty well.
- 42:49And the reason you can also do this with hot water and hot
- 42:52water is a lot faster.
- 42:54But the reason a lot of people use cold water and that you want
- 42:58to use cold water
- 42:59SPEAKER_02: is because it keeps a really important starch intact.
- 43:02SPEAKER_02: So acorn has a starch that works just like cornstarch.
- 43:06SPEAKER_02: It's a thickener.
- 43:08SPEAKER_02: And for a lot of
- 43:09uses of acorn flour you really want that starch so you you can
- 43:14use hot water and it
- 43:15happens much faster like you can boil the tannins out of acorns
- 43:18and that'll be
- 43:19quick but it will also be not as good of a product when you're
- 43:23done and you know
- 43:24SPEAKER_02: obviously that's a home scale
- 43:26SPEAKER_02: And we're talking about feeding a lot of people.
- 43:29SPEAKER_02: So there are people experimenting with larger scale processing.
- 43:33There's some chestnut growers in the Midwest who have realized
- 43:36that their equipment
- 43:37SPEAKER_02: can also process acorns.
- 43:39So they're doing a lot of experimentation with using the same
- 43:43lines of equipment
- 43:44SPEAKER_02: for chestnuts and acorns and producing flour that way,
- 43:47SPEAKER_02: which I think has a lot of promise.
- 43:49SPEAKER_02: Ah, cool.
- 43:50SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 43:50There was a lot in the book about the relationship between fire
- 43:54and oak trees.
- 43:54SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 43:55SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 43:56So as I learned about oaks and started learning like what an
- 44:00important keystone
- 44:01SPEAKER_02: species they are,
- 44:03SPEAKER_02: I went out to California and hung out with the man I mentioned earlier,
- 44:07SPEAKER_02: Ron Reed,
- 44:08SPEAKER_02: who's an indigenous medicine man and cultural biologist.
- 44:12And he started telling me that to maintain the oak ecosystems
- 44:16in their area,
- 44:18SPEAKER_02: They use fire.
- 44:19SPEAKER_02: So prescribed fire, cultural fire.
- 44:22SPEAKER_02: And I was pretty interested by that.
- 44:24But when we first started talking about it,
- 44:26I thought it really only applied to that area.
- 44:28SPEAKER_02: I knew that California had all this history with wildfire.
- 44:32SPEAKER_02: And that, you know, kind of made sense to me.
- 44:35SPEAKER_02: But someone else said,
- 44:36SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 44:36SPEAKER_02: you should really look into the history of fire and oaks in other areas.
- 44:40There's this whole hypothesis called the oak fire hypothesis,
- 44:44which I had never heard of.
- 44:46SPEAKER_02: And it turns out that most oaks,
- 44:48SPEAKER_02: not all oaks,
- 44:48SPEAKER_02: but many oak species are what's called fire adapted.
- 44:52SPEAKER_02: And they have this really long list of traits,
- 44:54SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 44:54SPEAKER_02: thick bark,
- 44:55SPEAKER_02: ability to re-sprout quickly after a fire.
- 44:57SPEAKER_02: And
- 45:00SPEAKER_02: So when I started looking into it,
- 45:02SPEAKER_02: I realized that actually all over North America,
- 45:05SPEAKER_02: oak trees and fire have had this really long relationship and actually a
- 45:09SPEAKER_02: relationship that has traditionally involved humans and human burning.
- 45:15SPEAKER_02: In eastern North America,
- 45:16SPEAKER_02: white oak has been the dominant species for 9000 years,
- 45:19SPEAKER_02: despite some pretty dramatic changes in climate at various points.
- 45:24And a lot of ecologists think that that is because of human
- 45:28burning and because people
- 45:30have been burning to keep these oak trees dominant on the
- 45:32landscape because oaks
- 45:34SPEAKER_02: are what's called a mid-successional species.
- 45:36SPEAKER_02: So they don't like to get shaded out in terms of regeneration.
- 45:40If they start getting shaded out by birches and maples,
- 45:43oak seedlings won't do very well.
- 45:45SPEAKER_02: They like a bit of an openness in the forest.
- 45:48And so human burning for the past 9000 years until pretty
- 45:54recently has actually
- 45:56maintained these conditions that oaks like and helped oak and
- 46:00hickory forests,
- 46:01SPEAKER_02: especially in our area,
- 46:02SPEAKER_02: regenerate and regenerate.
- 46:05that was a revelation for me because I've always seen oak trees
- 46:09as natural and wild,
- 46:10right?
- 46:11SPEAKER_02: And those words by definition mean that there's no humans involved.
- 46:16SPEAKER_02: There's no human tending.
- 46:18SPEAKER_02: There's no human care.
- 46:20SPEAKER_02: And the more I learned and the more I started thinking about it,
- 46:24The more I started feeling like these categories that we put on
- 46:28food production
- 46:28SPEAKER_02: systems,
- 46:29SPEAKER_02: like hunting and gathering versus farming,
- 46:32SPEAKER_02: are really just,
- 46:32SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 46:33SPEAKER_02: another layer of story.
- 46:35And that people tending oak trees are doing all the same jobs
- 46:39that a farmer is
- 46:39SPEAKER_02: doing,
- 46:40SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 46:40SPEAKER_02: controlling the water cycle,
- 46:42SPEAKER_02: looking at pests and pathogens.
- 46:45SPEAKER_02: But they're using this tool that can be really nuanced.
- 46:49SPEAKER_02: of fire to create the conditions that this food crop needs.
- 46:54SPEAKER_02: So that was really a revelation for me.
- 46:58SPEAKER_00: Yeah, it's super fascinating.
- 47:00SPEAKER_02: So there is a longstanding study of fire on oak ecosystems where I live,
- 47:04SPEAKER_02: which I didn't know about before I started researching the book.
- 47:08I ended up going on some of the prescribed burns over there and
- 47:11getting trained in
- 47:12SPEAKER_02: prescribed fire
- 47:14and really starting to appreciate the amount of nuance that it
- 47:17takes to use fire
- 47:19effectively so they were studying you know what happens to the
- 47:22oak forest here if
- 47:23you burn every year every four years at these different
- 47:27frequencies um and if you
- 47:29burn every year you pretty quickly lose your oak forest because
- 47:32you're not having
- 47:32any regeneration of these oak seedlings they need a few years
- 47:36without fire to get
- 47:37SPEAKER_02: established um
- 47:39SPEAKER_02: And it depends on your ecosystem,
- 47:41SPEAKER_02: but in different places,
- 47:43SPEAKER_02: you'll have these different fire return intervals,
- 47:46basically how frequently you want to put fire on the land in
- 47:50order to get the
- 47:51SPEAKER_02: ecosystem that you're trying to maintain with fire.
- 47:55SPEAKER_02: Um,
- 47:55SPEAKER_02: so I do now go on a lot of burns with mass fish and wildlife,
- 47:59which is doing a lot of work in our area to restore oak
- 48:02savannah habitat and some
- 48:04SPEAKER_02: other oak and grassland ecosystems.
- 48:07SPEAKER_02: And the more I've learned about that,
- 48:10SPEAKER_02: the more I've started to see this human,
- 48:12SPEAKER_02: uh,
- 48:14wild relationship differently because a lot of the ecosystems
- 48:18that we talk about as
- 48:19SPEAKER_02: wild,
- 48:20SPEAKER_02: uh,
- 48:21We can only talk about that way if you basically erase
- 48:25thousands of years of
- 48:26SPEAKER_02: indigenous history.
- 48:27A lot of the landscapes that we see as natural and wild and
- 48:32that we talk about as
- 48:33natural and wild actually have a long history of human
- 48:36maintenance and human
- 48:38SPEAKER_02: tending and often with fire.
- 48:41SPEAKER_02: Uh,
- 48:42and I would recommend anyone who has even the smallest interest
- 48:46in fire to get
- 48:47SPEAKER_02: involved because it's great people and it's fascinating.
- 48:51SPEAKER_02: It's,
- 48:52SPEAKER_02: it's just fascinating to be out there figuring out in real time,
- 48:55SPEAKER_02: like,
- 48:56SPEAKER_02: well,
- 48:56SPEAKER_02: what happens if we burn here?
- 48:57SPEAKER_02: What happens if we burn here?
- 48:59SPEAKER_02: And then going back and looking,
- 49:01SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 49:01I went back to some of the places we burn and there's all these
- 49:03oak sprouts and
- 49:04SPEAKER_02: it's like,
- 49:05okay,
- 49:05wow,
- 49:05you read about it in a book,
- 49:06but then you go do it and you see it.
- 49:08SPEAKER_02: And it's pretty cool.
- 49:12What I'm continually fascinated by is just this long-term view
- 49:16of management,
- 49:19SPEAKER_00: of forest management,
- 49:21SPEAKER_00: especially when she got more into the fires in the book,
- 49:26SPEAKER_00: how indigenous management,
- 49:30SPEAKER_00: fires were not necessarily every year.
- 49:32SPEAKER_00: They might be decades apart.
- 49:34SPEAKER_00: And just thinking about,
- 49:36SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 49:36SPEAKER_00: food systems in this way that it,
- 49:38SPEAKER_00: a way that's decades,
- 49:39this long-term idea of it is just like counterintuitive to
- 49:45everything we've been
- 49:46SPEAKER_00: taught about,
- 49:46SPEAKER_00: like farming and agriculture.
- 49:50SPEAKER_02: I started researching because,
- 49:51SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 49:51SPEAKER_02: first I thought the fire thing was maybe only California.
- 49:54SPEAKER_02: And then I was like, oh, wow, it's out here where I live, too.
- 49:57SPEAKER_02: There's this long history of fire.
- 49:59SPEAKER_02: And as I started talking with people in a variety of places,
- 50:03SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 50:03SPEAKER_02: the British Isles,
- 50:04there's actually a really long history of humans using fire to
- 50:08tend a lot of these
- 50:10SPEAKER_02: heath lands and other landscapes.
- 50:13SPEAKER_02: Australia has this long history of food production with fire.
- 50:16SPEAKER_02: The Amazon has a long history of food production with fire.
- 50:20SPEAKER_02: And I started really understanding what Ron Reed was telling me about our
- 50:26SPEAKER_02: relationship with oak trees and this fire.
- 50:30SPEAKER_02: He kept telling me that oak trees are akin and that fire is medicine.
- 50:34And I thought like,
- 50:36oh,
- 50:36that's just a nice way to describe these relationships.
- 50:40SPEAKER_02: But the more deeply I started to understand them, the more I realized...
- 50:44like no this is literal like we have been in this physical
- 50:49relationship with these
- 50:51trees for thousands of years when he says that we're kin we're
- 50:57in a relationship
- 50:58you know we're we're relatives in this way not in the way of
- 51:02like oh we're in the
- 51:02SPEAKER_02: same genus or whatever but like we're in a relationship we've been in a
- 51:07SPEAKER_02: relationship for thousands of years and
- 51:10SPEAKER_02: And I sort of,
- 51:12SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 51:13eventually managed to translate it into my own Western science
- 51:17speak background as
- 51:19SPEAKER_02: like,
- 51:20SPEAKER_02: OK,
- 51:20SPEAKER_02: we're a keystone species,
- 51:21SPEAKER_02: too.
- 51:22SPEAKER_02: We have a role to play in these ecosystems.
- 51:25SPEAKER_02: And if we're important to oaks,
- 51:27SPEAKER_02: which are,
- 51:28SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 51:29SPEAKER_02: in their own right,
- 51:29SPEAKER_02: incredibly important to all these other species,
- 51:33SPEAKER_02: Maybe the natural world wouldn't be better off without us,
- 51:36which I think is always an assumption that I had had based on
- 51:38what I learned as a
- 51:39SPEAKER_02: kid about our relationship with the ecosystems around us.
- 51:42SPEAKER_02: We were always destroying things.
- 51:44SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 51:45I saw the post-apocalyptic movies and you read the books and
- 51:48like the ecosystems
- 51:49SPEAKER_02: are thriving because the humans finally disappeared.
- 51:52SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 51:53SPEAKER_02: But like,
- 51:54SPEAKER_02: well,
- 51:54SPEAKER_02: is that true if our disappearance means these oak trees are struggling to
- 51:57SPEAKER_02: regenerate?
- 52:00SPEAKER_02: Because,
- 52:00SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 52:00in a lot of ecosystems where fire suppression has become more
- 52:03common in the past
- 52:04SPEAKER_02: 100,
- 52:05SPEAKER_02: 150 years,
- 52:06SPEAKER_02: oaks are really struggling to regenerate.
- 52:08They're seeing problems with oak regeneration across the
- 52:11northern hemisphere.
- 52:11SPEAKER_02: And in a lot of places, it's tied to the loss of human fire.
- 52:17SPEAKER_02: So what I hope I do,
- 52:20SPEAKER_02: at least a little bit in the book,
- 52:21is challenge people to rethink that idea that the earth would
- 52:25be better off without
- 52:26SPEAKER_02: us.
- 52:26And,
- 52:26you know,
- 52:27because that kind of leads to like,
- 52:28well,
- 52:28we might as well just give up.
- 52:30SPEAKER_02: It'll be better when we're gone.
- 52:32SPEAKER_02: And if that's not true, then how do we want to rethink our relationships?
- 52:36SPEAKER_02: How do we want to interact with the living world around us?
- 52:40SPEAKER_02: I think it challenges people to...
- 52:43SPEAKER_02: think a little bit differently about how we're showing up.
- 52:45SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 52:46SPEAKER_01: We can actually be helpful and necessary.
- 52:49SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 52:51SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 52:51And I think it can be a little bit of a self-fulfilling
- 52:53prophecy too,
- 52:54right?
- 52:54SPEAKER_02: If you believe, oh, we're just bad.
- 52:56SPEAKER_02: The best thing we can do is remove ourselves.
- 52:59SPEAKER_02: Then you're kind of, you're not going to interact.
- 53:01SPEAKER_02: If you think, oh, we have a really important job to do here.
- 53:04Cause that was the other thing Ron kept telling me,
- 53:06you know,
- 53:06we're not doing our job.
- 53:08SPEAKER_02: We're not doing our job.
- 53:10SPEAKER_02: And at first I was like, what, what's our job, you know?
- 53:12Um,
- 53:14but we do,
- 53:15we have jobs and if we don't do them,
- 53:17then ecosystems suffer.
- 53:20SPEAKER_02: And,
- 53:20SPEAKER_02: uh,
- 53:21SPEAKER_02: it's nice to be needed,
- 53:22SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 53:23SPEAKER_02: it's nice to have a role to play besides like,
- 53:25SPEAKER_02: Oh,
- 53:25SPEAKER_02: go disappear.
- 53:26SPEAKER_02: Cause that's not, it's not a very exciting role.
- 53:29SPEAKER_02: Huh?
- 53:31SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 53:31SPEAKER_00: No, it was, I found it very hopeful.
- 53:34SPEAKER_00: I think just the book throughout just, um,
- 53:37SPEAKER_00: just what these trees can do for us and what we can do for them.
- 53:41SPEAKER_00: And I want to thank you for sharing your story with us.
- 53:46SPEAKER_02: So much for having me.
- 53:49SPEAKER_02: It's been a pleasure.
- 53:50SPEAKER_02: Thank you.
- 53:51SPEAKER_02: Likewise.
- 53:53SPEAKER_00: Thank you, everyone, for listening.
- 53:54SPEAKER_00: That was Elspeth Hay.
- 53:57SPEAKER_00: She wrote the book Feed Us with Trees, Nuts in the Future of Food.
- 54:01SPEAKER_00: Check it out at small bookstores everywhere.
- 54:04SPEAKER_00: And thank you for listening.
- 54:07SPEAKER_00: Please check us out on Substack.
- 54:12SPEAKER_00: Just go to newworlder.com or search for New World on Substack.
- 54:15If you like the episode,
- 54:16if you like listening,
- 54:18please like us and share us.
- 54:20SPEAKER_00: It all helps.
- 54:21SPEAKER_00: Thank you.