Latest / MUBI Podcast / QUADROPHENIA — The mod, mod world of ’64, ’79 and beyond
Transcript
- 0:03Heads up: This episode includes adult language mentions of drug abuse and spoilers.
- 0:12Heads up: In the early 1960s, a young farm kid named Roger Burton was living in, let's say not the flashiest part of the UK.
- 0:20Heads up: In a little village actually, in the Midlands of England, called Burton Overy.
- 0:24Heads up: Which was bizarre because my surname is Burton also.
- 0:28Heads up: But it was, yeah, I mean obviously farm life and village life was very traditional, shall we say.
- 0:34Heads up: Nothing more than kind of barn dances and village hall hops, you know.
- 0:38Heads up: But then he started going to school nine miles north.
- 0:43Heads up: In a place that sounds like a different planet.
- 0:45Heads up: The city of Leicester.
- 0:47Heads up: And Leicester at that time was actually the richest city in Europe because of its hosiery and boot and shoe industry.
- 0:55Heads up: Lots of garments were made there.
- 0:57Heads up: Working kids who'd grown up during 15 years of war and rationing could finally indulge in stuff that was international and new.
- 1:04Heads up: Like they bought coveted records from the USA.
- 1:07Heads up: Mail ordering, you know, R&B and soul.
- 1:10Heads up: And they in turn started little pop-up clubs everywhere.
- 1:14Heads up: Clubs in cafes and the backrooms of pubs and so on.
- 1:20Heads up: And I used to go to these clubs.
- 1:22Heads up: And one night that one of them...
- 1:26Heads up: he got his mind blown.
- 1:27Heads up: There was a little group of kids who were probably a little bit older than me, started to get up and dance.
- 1:33Heads up: And they were wearing a very distinct style, straight leg trousers, button down shirt, and, you know, those shiny mohair suits that they wore and Italian knits and wearing kind of formal clothes but like in a casual way, which was very new.
- 1:49Heads up: Yeah for decades, young British men basically dressed like their dads.
- 1:53Heads up: Even went to the same tailor.
- 1:54Heads up: But here were these mostly working class dudes decking themselves out like the cool cats on their R&B albums.
- 2:00Heads up: Or from French and Italian movies.
- 2:02Heads up: Austerity was over, they wanted a modern life, which meant dressing nothing like their dads.
- 2:07Heads up: Or even, Roger noticed, like each other.
- 2:09Heads up: Going to a club at night in the dark, you'd spot in the distance maybe a suit with a detail on it.
- 2:16Heads up: You'd think, oh, he's got like six buttons on his cuff.
- 2:20Heads up: That's a new thing. Or the vent in his jacket might be extremely long.
- 2:24Heads up: Just all those little things that made it special.
- 2:28Heads up: It was something that really appealed to me about being an individualist.
- 2:33Heads up: He was officially hooked on a sharp, ever evolving look and lifestyle called "mod." So this was kind of like, you know, bright lights, big city.
- 2:46Heads up: I wanted to be part of it, and it affected me so much I mean, I spent every penny I had on clothing.
- 2:54Heads up: It just like, wow, this is a whole new world that I really want to get involved with.
- 3:01Heads up: And he did.
- 3:02Heads up: In fact, 20 years later, he's one of the guys they asked to suit up the cast of a mod movie called Quadrophenia.
- 3:09Heads up: Which at a time when a lot of kids were slashing their clothes to ribbons, gave them a blueprint for rebelling in style.
- 3:27Heads up: I'm Rico Gagliano, welcome back to the MUBI podcast.
- 3:30Heads up: MUBI's the streaming service that champions great cinema.
- 3:32Heads up: On this show, we tell you the stories behind great cinema.
- 3:35Heads up: This is season five, we're calling it 'Tailor Made', because every week we're diving into a movie that captured the fashion look of an era.
- 3:42Heads up: And then we're figuring out what that look meant to the culture that's spawned it, the people who rocked it, and the audience who watched it on screen.
- 3:49Heads up: And Quadrophenia meant a lot.
- 3:52Heads up: It is a movie about a controversial corner of the Mod world circa 1964 that entranced a certain breed of UK kid when it hit screens in 1979.
- 4:02Heads up: We saw Quadrophenia and it gave us a template for.
- 4:05Heads up: That is esteemed mod DJ, historian and keeper of the flame, Eddie Piller, and I talked to him Quad's director Frank Rowbottom, and many more about what made this movie a mod Bible.
- 4:15Heads up: For everyone from working stiffs to fashion superstars.
- 4:18Heads up: There was a whole mod collection where I opened the show and Linda Evangelista came out on the Vespa.
- 4:24Heads up: In fact, thanks in part to this movie, this is one fashion I dabble in.
- 4:28Heads up: I will rock Fred Perry shirts with Harrington jackets, and I've known it's a look with a history, but I had no idea how complicated.
- 4:37Heads up: So doff your Trilby hat and loosen that thin tie as we try to rip open the seams of mod and Quadrophenia.
- 4:58Heads up: Last September, I visited the beachside city of Brighton on the southern edge of England.
- 5:04Heads up: It boasts a famous rocky beach, a ridiculous charming 125 year old pier, one of the world's oldest cinemas called the Duke of York.
- 5:13Heads up: At the top of my sightseeing list was an alleyway off a shopping road.
- 5:19Heads up: And here we are, Quadrophenia Alley.
- 5:22Heads up: That's what people call it.
- 5:24Heads up: The location of Quadrophenia's most iconic scene.
- 5:27Heads up: Where two mods make love while a riot rages on the street outside.
- 5:32Heads up: I definitely was not the first to visit.
- 5:35Heads up: Just a narrow little alley.
- 5:37Heads up: You wouldn't think much of it or think that it was anything special except that the walls are covered with graffiti from mods who have made the pilgrimage here.
- 5:44Heads up: Pilgrimage is the right word.
- 5:46Heads up: For a lot of people this is obviously a shrine.
- 5:49Heads up: People writing RIP to their lost friends or relatives, RIP Helen Cartwright assuming fellow mods.
- 5:56Heads up: Somebody here wrote "It's a way of life".
- 5:58Heads up: With the mod target drawn underneath it.
- 6:01Heads up: Kind of the symbol of the mod movement.
- 6:04Heads up: The walls are covered.
- 6:05Heads up: My guess is that they must paint this over every now and then because all of these inscriptions people have dated them, and they're mostly from like 2023.
- 6:13Heads up: If they didn't paint over this every now and then, it would probably just be like black with writing and graffiti.
- 6:20Heads up: This is how much Quadrophenia still cast a spell.
- 6:23Heads up: For a lot of folks it's a touchstone for mod culture 35 years after its release.
- 6:28Heads up: So I was surprised when I dug into mod history to learn the movie's story and fashions were pulled from a year some mods don't exactly celebrate.
- 6:36Heads up: 1964 into 65.
- 6:39Heads up: By which time mod is, in real terms had come to an end, really.
- 6:45Heads up: Paolo Hewitt is a former features writer for the music mags NME and Melody Maker and coauthor of among many other books The A to Z of Mod.
- 6:53Heads up: Mod started, really, late fifties in London.
- 6:56Heads up: It was then the modernist movement.
- 6:58Heads up: It wasn't mod at the beginning.
- 6:59Heads up: It was modernist.
- 7:01Heads up: People referred--"I'm a modernist".
- 7:02Heads up: They referred to themselves of modernist.
- 7:04Heads up: They dug a new art for the modern postwar world, beat poetry, Jack Kerouac.
- 7:09Heads up: And they listened to modern jazz they liked Dizzy Gillespie, Miles Davis, those kind of guys, and they like dressing like those guys.
- 7:17Heads up: The Ivy League look, buttoned down collars, tie, suit, looking very smart.
- 7:22Heads up: By 61 or 62, there was a shift.
- 7:24Heads up: Smart, modern sound and style to be into was American R&B.
- 7:28Heads up: You just heard about that a minute ago.
- 7:30Heads up: But mod was still niche, an underground culture of cool kids, mostly in London, plus a few elsewhere, popping uppers so they could dance all night.
- 7:41Heads up: And then in 1963, Rediffusion Television over here started a show called Ready, Steady, Go! What they wanted were bands on with an audience to dance to those bands.
- 7:57Heads up: So they went around the clubs in London and they got all these mods to come and be on the show.
- 8:02Heads up: But what that did was to nationalized mod so that kids in Leeds and Manchester and Liverpool could suddenly see what these kids in London were wearing.
- 8:11Heads up: Well, each week we like to have a special look at fashion, so we'll kick off that way this week.
- 8:14Heads up: First of all, hairstyles.
- 8:16Heads up: So suddenly this kind of very elite youth cult became a national phenomenon.
- 8:22Heads up: For folks like Roger Burton sounds like it was pretty exciting at first.
- 8:25Heads up: Everybody was like, you know, all my friends were all really hooked on it.
- 8:28Heads up: It was like, you know, the weekend starts here. Friday night, 6 o'clock.
- 8:33Heads up: Ready, Steady, Go! And of course, they featured all those American bands.
- 8:37Heads up: So I was able to see them.
- 8:40Heads up: But then he noticed things starting to change where the modernists had been about looking like no one else suddenly there were all these newbies looking alike.
- 8:48Heads up: Especially after the arrival of a cheap, sleek vehicle from Italy that would become an iconic mod accessory.
- 8:55Heads up: I remember as early as 1963, this kid turning up with a silver Vespa GS scooter dressed head to toe in white, and I think he had a white suit on.
- 9:08Heads up: White shirt, even had white hair as well.
- 9:11Heads up: He just looked incredible.
- 9:13Heads up: But he had on an American parka like over the top of it.
- 9:17Heads up: Well, I'd seen these American parkas in surplus shops, but I'd never actually seen one being worn as a fashion thing.
- 9:25Heads up: But he looked amazing and he explained it as being, you know, a cheap form of being able to protect his white clothing on his scooter.
- 9:32Heads up: Because it covered it up from the rain and the wind and so on and so on.
- 9:37Heads up: So super cool and super practical.
- 9:39Heads up: But then...
- 9:42Heads up: it was everywhere.
- 9:43Heads up: And probably even within six months, all of a sudden I started to see scooters around the town and kids wearing parkas.
- 9:51Heads up: And it became like a plague, you know.
- 9:56Heads up: This was the most infamous mod look of 1964.
- 9:59Heads up: Out of the underground, roaring down roads all over the UK.
- 10:02Heads up: Still sharp, but more populist.
- 10:05Heads up: Frankly, more like the stuff I wear today.
- 10:07Heads up: And for some original mods, less special.
- 10:09Heads up: It became like a uniform.
- 10:11Heads up: Parkas and jeans and Fred Perry shirts and stuff.
- 10:16Heads up: And that to me was just jumping on the bandwagon and it felt like, you know, the secret was out.
- 10:22Heads up: Soon this new breed not only got disdain from O.G. Modernists, but from the rest of the country.
- 10:28Heads up: When a faction of these guys scootered to the seaside town of Clacton over Easter 1964 and ended up going on a minor rampage.
- 10:36Heads up: - And what happened?
- 10:36Heads up: - As far as the police were concerned,they came into the town and finding not much else to dothey committed several acts of wanton and purposeless damage. News crews breathlessly reported fights had busted out between the mods and another subculture, biker-types called rockers.
- 10:53Heads up: The story sounded pretty exciting.
- 10:55Heads up: So when summer hit aggro, guys from both crews headed again to beach towns like Brighton looking for more trouble.
- 11:01Heads up: Brighton did not go scot free.Before the holiday was over,76 mods and rockers were arrested. In retrospect, these were probably minor skirmishes blown out of proportion by media into a moral panic.
- 11:14Heads up: It really has come to somethingwhen people can't take a short holiday withoutthe threat of long haired youngsters with knives,indulging in an orgy of hooliganism. Paolo Hewitt says, didn't matter.
- 11:23Heads up: By 1965, for a lot of Brits, this was the face of mod.
- 11:27Heads up: They've got parkas and scooters and you had all that stuff about Brighton and beating up rockers.
- 11:33Heads up: No modernist would ever have, you know, fighting?
- 11:36Heads up: You're going to ruin your clothes.
- 11:38Heads up: Why would you go fighting?
- 11:39Heads up: I mean, it was, everything was anathema, but it just grown so big that this is what was happening under the term mod.
- 11:45Heads up: Modernist was now gone, it was now mod.
- 11:47Heads up: Now, some of this sounds a little snobbish.
- 11:49Heads up: Well, Roger Burton admits as much.
- 11:51Heads up: I mean, it was a lot of eliteism going on, let's put it like that.
- 11:54Heads up: But this wave of mods got the last laugh because years later they and their style would become immortalized in music and then on screen, thanks to a major British institution who felt he understood them.
- 12:06Heads up: Pete TownsendQuadrophenia, you probably already know, first took shape as a concept album from Townshend's band, The Who.
- 12:17Heads up: They had actually started out in 1964 playing, quote,"Maximum R&B for an audience full of mods." But by 1973, The Who had become prog rock superstars.
- 12:27Heads up: Which is when...
- 12:28Heads up: I felt that the bandhad lost its way. That's Townsend from an interview in 2011.
- 12:34Heads up: I felt the band needed to look back at its roots,and I thought the best way to do that was to look back at,you know, a young man who would be, if you like, kind of a...a model of a combination of all of our boy fans from that period. Namely a parka wearing kid circa 64, born into a gray country traumatized by war and looking for some spiritual direction in a tribe.
- 13:05Heads up: Quadrophenia is the story of Jimmy. a teen who feels split into four personalities.
- 13:11Heads up: Not mere schizophrenia, quadrophenia.
- 13:13Heads up: He's a rebel, a romantic, a madman, a hypocrite.
- 13:17Heads up: In the first track, I Am the Sea we hear musical themes for each.
- 13:21Heads up: Like voices in his head.
- 13:22Heads up: Is it me, for a moment... The grown ups in his life are too sad or clueless to help him.
- 13:30Heads up: His day job as a janitor is a dead end.
- 13:32Heads up: So in the Song Cut My Hair, he sings about throwing in his lot with the mods.
- 13:37Heads up: Why should I careIf I have to cut my hair?I got to move with the fashionOr be outcastSuiting up with this army of kids feels glorious, at least in the moment.Zoot suit, white jacket with side ventsFive inches long.I'm out on the street againAnd I'm leaping along He pops pills with the mods.
- 14:07Heads up: He joins them for a beach rumble with the rockers.
- 14:10Heads up: A gang of nearly a thousand youths entered the Grand Hotelin pursuit of two leather clad rockers. But as he gets more cynical about the regular world, Jimmy also gets the feeling being a mod is no escape.
- 14:23Heads up: Especially when he sees a respected top mod, an ace face working a lowly gig at a beach hotel.
- 14:30Heads up: Bell Boy! I got to get running now Bell Boy! Keep my lip buttoned down Bell Boy! Carry this baggage outBell boy! It's the last straw.
- 14:42Heads up: Sick of everything, Jimmy steals a boat, sales it out to a rock waits to be swept away by waves, but instead ends the record drenched in a purifying thunderstorm.
- 14:53Heads up: Suddenly enlightened.
- 14:55Heads up: And accompanied by a song anyone who's ever listened to classic rock radio knows.
- 15:00Heads up: Love, Reign o'er me So the album is like a beautiful, sweeping opera about an 18 year old.
- 15:14Heads up: That is Frank Rodham, the guy who'd eventually direct the Quadrophenia film.
- 15:18Heads up: The emotions are very powerful.
- 15:20Heads up: The likes and dislikes are very powerful.
- 15:22Heads up: It's also about fighting and sex and taking drugs.
- 15:26Heads up: So it's all there on the original album, and it was a beautifully made album, shot with beautiful black and white cover with four sides to it and beautiful still photography.
- 15:37Heads up: In other words, it was begging to be made into a movie.
- 15:44Heads up: And in a lot of ways, Rodham was just the filmmaker to do it.
- 15:47Heads up: Quadrophenia is about an 18 year old in 1964, and I was 18 in 1964 myself.
- 15:53Heads up: So it was this perfect era for me to film.
- 15:56Heads up: But he also came to the material as a kind of sympathetic outsider.
- 15:59Heads up: Strangely enough, I was a Ban The Bomb guy, you know.
- 16:02Heads up: Nuclear disarmament, I wanted to be a baby beatnik.
- 16:05Heads up: So when I was about 16, I...
- 16:07Heads up: I lied about my age and was traveling a great deal, hitchhiking around.
- 16:11Heads up: And then I came back one day from a trip, one of my trips, and the whole town did change.
- 16:17Heads up: Suddenly everyone was a mod.
- 16:19Heads up: The whole style had changed.
- 16:19Heads up: My mate suddenly had very short hair.
- 16:22Heads up: Very neat clothes.
- 16:23Heads up: Even though that I was like long haired and a bit of a beatnik, I was best man at least two mod weddings.
- 16:31Heads up: What is the groom and bride wear at a mod wedding?
- 16:34Heads up: A very smart clothes, you know.
- 16:34Heads up: I mean, really sharp.
- 16:37Heads up: So when he got asked to do the Quadrophenia movie in 1978, he knew well the world he'd be recreating.
- 16:43Heads up: And he also knew when it wasn't going to look or sound like.
- 16:48Heads up: I didn't want to make just a copy of Tommy.
- 16:51Heads up: As glorious as it was.
- 16:53Heads up: And as much as I love Ken Russell.
- 16:54Heads up: Yeah, 1975, director Ken Russell had turned The Who's first rock opera Tommy into a top ten box office hit.
- 17:02Heads up: Ever since I was a young boyI played the silver ball It's a gorgeous, lurid, over-the-top musical, the kind of flick where Elton John sings Pinball Wizard while wearing a giant pair of three foot wide combat boots.
- 17:14Heads up: He sure played a mean pinball Iconic, but that vibe was not Frank Rodman's thing.
- 17:23Heads up: I've never actually set to marryin', yet.Right, on so-and-so date, we will get married.I have never set out to marryin', yet. He actually got his start directing hit cinema verité TV documentaries, including what was more or less the UK's first reality show.
- 17:38Heads up: I did a series called The Family.
- 17:40Heads up: She's either a liar or you are. I sort of lived with this particular family and their four children, their lodger and their 50 pet birds, and I was the director on the series and we did 13 episodes.
- 17:52Heads up: And then after that I made a documentary about a young boy who was an arsonist.
- 17:57Heads up: What do you think about it?Do you think it's a good thing to do?To me it is.
- 18:01Heads up: But to other people it's not.Because people don't likehaving fires set all over the place. He was nearly 11 years old.
- 18:10Heads up: He's now 60.
- 18:11Heads up: But I still speak to him three or four times a week.
- 18:13Heads up: Drawing a parallel to this movie, you know, unsettled kid who's fractured mentally in some way.
- 18:19Heads up: You think you brought some of that to Quadrophenia?
- 18:22Heads up: Yeah, I think I was very influenced by Quatre Cent Coups by Truffaut.
- 18:26Heads up: 400 Blows, as it's called.
- 18:28Heads up: And also Kes by Ken Loach.
- 18:31Heads up: They were about disenfranchized kids who were like, you know, wanting and a little bit a little bit sad, you know?
- 18:37Heads up: And the same character's in Quadrophenia, if you like.
- 18:40Heads up: So this was Rodham's take on Pete Townsend, sweeping rock opera.
- 18:44Heads up: He'd make it a bittersweet kitchen sink drama with the grit of a documentary.
- 18:48Heads up: It was going to feel real.
- 18:50Heads up: And in a flick about mods that had to start with the clothes courtesy of one Roger Burton.
- 18:57Heads up: Since his mod youth in Leicester, Burton had become a fashion pro.
- 19:01Heads up: With his partner Jack English, he had a boutique in London and amassed a trove of vintage wear.
- 19:07Heads up: In 78 they were selling it from a stall on London's Portobello Road. And one day...
- 19:11Heads up: It was a Saturday and I phoned up my partner to see how he'd got on.
- 19:18Heads up: And he said, oh, it's been really interesting.
- 19:20Heads up: She said, "This guy walked by and he noticed"that we've got some sixties clothing for sale.
- 19:25Heads up: "And he asked if we had any more.
- 19:28Heads up: "So I said, Yes, Why?
- 19:29Heads up: "And he said, oh, it's because we're just about to start a movie"set in the sixties about mods, and would we be able to supply them?" Of course, the movie was Quadrophenia.
- 19:38Heads up: The guy was Frank Rodham who lived nearby, and his first assignment for Burton, ironically, was to find parkas for the dozens of actors and extras who were going to be reenacting a Brighton Beach Rumble on the first week of shooting.
- 19:50Heads up: I think it was like 150 parkas.
- 19:53Heads up: They wanted American parkas.
- 19:55Heads up: And of course, you know, I said,"Yeah, no problem." But then I found out that we could get what they called a shell, which is the actual coat, but most of them didn't have a hood.
- 20:05Heads up: And I was like, well, why haven't they got hoods?
- 20:07Heads up: Turns out the UK government had just decreed army surplus stores couldn't sell military clothes unless they were distressed somehow.
- 20:14Heads up: So then we found a lot of hoods in Holland actually.
- 20:18Heads up: And so we got those shipped over and we had like a team of women sewing the hoods back onto the coats.
- 20:24Heads up: Meanwhile, a lot of the suits the actors wore in those beach melees were actual pristine vintage items from the era.
- 20:31Heads up: That sadly also ended up getting pretty distressed.
- 20:33Heads up: During the fight scenes sleeves got ripped off, jackets and sweaters got torn apart.
- 20:39Heads up: And then, of course, going in the sea in a mohair suit, it ain't going to survive.
- 20:44Heads up: It was heartbreaking, but yeah, there you go.
- 20:47Heads up: Is there a specific piece that you remember being like, oh man, this one's being sacrificed to the sea.
- 20:52Heads up: - This is terrible.
- 20:52Heads up: - Not really, no.
- 20:55Heads up: Basically, we were out on the road most of the time trying to locate stuff to replenish what had been lost or destroyed or were even stolen, actually.
- 21:04Heads up: Stolen by who?
- 21:05Heads up: Well, the cast! Not everyone in the cast was so keen to nick their mod gear, though.
- 21:13Heads up: Because you've got to remember, this movie was being shot in 1978.
- 21:16Heads up: A year, says Frank Rodham, when a lot of UK kids were obsessed with a very different fashion style.
- 21:22Heads up: What you had, you had the punk era and punk was very influential.
- 21:26Heads up: You know, these outside clothes, they they did away with the tight structure.
- 21:30Heads up: It was-- it had a big impact on everything in England, from furniture to architecture, and prints, and design.
- 21:35Heads up: Everything.
- 21:37Heads up: You're about to hear just how big an impact.
- 21:39Heads up: It's a story Frank told me about the guy who played Jimmy's best pal Dave.
- 21:43Heads up: Actor Mark Wingett.
- 21:44Heads up: He was 16 years old and he was a complete punk.
- 21:47Heads up: But he was such a good young actor and I thought he was perfect for the role.
- 21:50Heads up: We convinced him to become a mod.
- 21:53Heads up: And then there was an incident that took place the first week of shooting.
- 21:57Heads up: He'd been causing a bit of problem in the hotel they were all staying in Brighton.
- 22:01Heads up: And the assistant director spoke very harshly to him.
- 22:05Heads up: And he said, I'm leaving!" I'd already done a weeks filming, couldn't get him to stay.
- 22:09Heads up: And I think, my God, it's going to destroy the film.
- 22:11Heads up: And then I remembered the Johnny Rotten had given me a shirt that belonged to Sid Vicious.
- 22:17Heads up: And as Johnny told me at the time, Sid had come round to attack him for some reason.
- 22:22Heads up: And got annoyed with him about something, come round his house in Fulham.
- 22:26Heads up: And Johnny had hit him with the blunt end of an ax.
- 22:29Heads up: And Sid Vicious threw up onto his own shirt.
- 22:33Heads up: And when Dave said he was going to leave, I said, "You stay,"you can have this shirt that's not only belonged"to Sid Vicious and he's got his puke on it, but it was actually given to me by Johnny Rotten." and that was it.
- 22:45Heads up: That turned the whole meeting around.
- 22:46Heads up: The deal was done.
- 22:48Heads up: He was so pleased to stay and get the shirt and I was so pleased.
- 22:52Heads up: - About a week later, his mother washed it- Oh no! And I don't think he ever spoke to her again.
- 22:59Heads up: You see the power of fashion on and off set.
- 23:01Heads up: Yes. Yes indeed.
- 23:06Heads up: By the way, the reason Rodham had that shirt was because he had originally planned to cast Johnny Rotten as Jimmy.
- 23:12Heads up: To make the movie relevant for the punk crowd.
- 23:14Heads up: Turns out he was better off without him.
- 23:17Heads up: Because a growing group of UK kids were looking for something other than the shirt off Sid Vicious' back.
- 23:23Heads up: Quadrophenia gets dropped into the middle of a mod revival.
- 23:26Heads up: Coming up in just a minute.
- 23:26Heads up: Stay with us.
- 23:35Heads up: Alright everybody, MUBI is the curated streaming service dedicated to elevating great cinema.
- 23:40Heads up: Movies from around the world, from first time filmmakers to legendary auteurs.
- 23:44Heads up: Any movie that's excellent, basically, we want to bring it to you.
- 23:47Heads up: And I want to mention something extra excellent, that's in theaters now.
- 23:51Heads up: And coming for subscribers in the UK, Germany and many other countries starting March 1st.
- 23:56Heads up: That would be Priscilla, the latest film from Sofia Coppola, of course, the iconic director of Lost in Translation and The Virgin Suicides. This is Coppola's take on the life of Priscilla Presley and her romance with Elvis Presley from the fifties into the seventies.
- 24:11Heads up: And I know, there is no dearth of movies about Elvis, but this one is centered on a woman, and it's made by a woman.
- 24:19Heads up: So it's take on the whole King of Rock and Roll world is like no other.
- 24:23Heads up: Fascinating movie.
- 24:24Heads up: Also, if you're familiar with Sofia Coppola's films, you will not be surprised to learn the period costumes are gorgeous.
- 24:30Heads up: You will actually hear us speaking to Coppola about that and much more in the final episodes of the season.
- 24:36Heads up: So subscribe to MUBI at MUBI.com so you don't miss Priscilla when it hits the platform March 1st.
- 24:42Heads up: You will find a list of the countries where it will be available and where it is currently in theaters, in the show notes of this episode.
- 24:49Heads up: Speaking of which, let's get back to it.
- 24:57Heads up: So it's December 1978.
- 24:58Heads up: Shooting has wrapped on Quadrophenia and in London, a 14 year old kid who would soon be one of the movie's biggest fans was busy getting way into the punk scene.
- 25:09Heads up: It was such a powerful thing on the streets of London.
- 25:13Heads up: Eddie Piller now runs the record label Acid Jazz.
- 25:16Heads up: DJs at fests like Glastonbury and just published a memoir calledClean Living Under Difficult Circumstances, about his youth in UK subcultures.
- 25:24Heads up: I was going to punk gigs regularly, you know, I feel I was quite a good little punk.
- 25:29Heads up: But the end came for me at a Buzzcocks gig.
- 25:33Heads up: Where people were just taking the piss out of me.
- 25:36Heads up: Yeah, some older kids took one look at Eddie's fluffy mohair sweater and called him the worst punk insult imaginable, a poser.
- 25:42Heads up: And I thought "Sod that I don't need that in my life." And then I saw The Jam in December 1978 and and...
- 25:52Heads up: Became a mod.
- 25:54Heads up: This is a modern world Went out the next day and bought parka.
- 25:57Heads up: This is the modern world The Jam, a band that was punk in its fury and energy.
- 26:03Heads up: But whose frontman, Paul Weller, had been taking the style cues from classic mod since the early seventies, when most British teens just weren't.
- 26:11Heads up: I've seen Paul Weller's schoolbooks and they are full of little drawings of scooters and The Who logos.
- 26:17Heads up: You know, everything that man has done has been for mod.
- 26:21Heads up: Every decision he makes in his life, the books he reads, the socks he wears, he's done for mod.
- 26:27Heads up: He's just the mod.
- 26:29Heads up: Where a lot of punk acts wore shredded clothes and bondage gear Weller's band wore vintage suits and ties, and to Piller, the music had a kind of modernist attitude that felt different too.
- 26:38Heads up: Punks were nihilistic.
- 26:40Heads up: Smash it up, tear it down Mods, on the other hand, especially around The Jam, were, well, the opposite of that.
- 26:47Heads up: He started singing about what's the point in saying destroy?
- 26:50Heads up: We want a new life for everyone.
- 26:52Heads up: And this is the modern world, you know, and even the song titlesThis is the Modern World.This is the modern worldWe don't need no oneto tell us what's right or wrong You know, we wanted to create, we wanted to build.
- 27:05Heads up: We wanted smart clothes.
- 27:07Heads up: Everything that they weren't we wanted to be.
- 27:09Heads up: It was so different that we had to do it.
- 27:12Heads up: We had to be there.
- 27:13Heads up: And I saw The Jam 53 times.
- 27:17Heads up: Eddie was not alone.
- 27:19Heads up: Around London mod bands sprung up in The Jam's wake.
- 27:22Heads up: Aiming for a similar attitude and that same dapper look, which lucky enough for their mostly working class teen audience, was easy to pull off.
- 27:30Heads up: Most of the clothes were secondhand.
- 27:32Heads up: Because don't forget, the Sixties was only 12 years ago, you know, and there were plenty of secondhand suits lying around that you could just pick up for a pound.
- 27:41Heads up: So the look was very cheap when it started.
- 27:44Heads up: Around the same time came the so-called two-tone music scene, multiracial bands reviving the ska sound of the sixties.
- 27:51Heads up: They also dressed in trim throwback suits.
- 27:53Heads up: And the two-tone thing were seen as a very much as a mod movement at first.
- 27:57Heads up: You know, for the first year.
- 27:59Heads up: Music mags like The NME heralded the dawn of a mod revival.
- 28:03Heads up: And right then, in a moment of perfect synchronicity,Quadrophenia premiered in London summer 1979.
- 28:12Heads up: Now, before I tell you how it was received, you should probably hear something.
- 28:15Heads up: Pete Townsend said in a BBC interview 30 years later.
- 28:19Heads up: It was right before the debut of the Quadrophenia musical, and interviewer Andy Breare asked Pete what kind of audience might come to see it.
- 28:27Heads up: Right in the front row will be old blokesof about my age wearing parkas.And next to them will be a young blokeof about my son's age, also wearing a parka.And the old bloke will be telling the young blokewhat is right and wrong with our show. That's my nightmare.
- 28:45Heads up: "Oh no, no.
- 28:45Heads up: We never did that.
- 28:46Heads up: "No, that dancing.
- 28:46Heads up: That's not how we did it.
- 28:48Heads up: I would never have worn shoes like that. Oh my God!" Yeah mod fashion is all about sweating the details.
- 28:55Heads up: And in 1979...
- 28:58Heads up: some thought Quadrophenia didn't sweat 'em enough.
- 29:00Heads up: I don't know, I've got to be careful what I say here, Including the movie's own outfitters, Roger Burton and his partner Jack English.
- 29:08Heads up: You know, people like Jimmy and, you know, some of the rest of them, they look great.
- 29:12Heads up: But I mean, I remember going to see the premiere and Jack was completely horrified.
- 29:17Heads up: I mean, I think he ended up walking out of the film.
- 29:20Heads up: He was just like, "Oh my God, this is a shambles." Like background extras who dressed in their own totally era inappropriate gear.
- 29:27Heads up: Or more egregious, the character of the Ace-Face, Jimmy's mod icon, played by a young Gordon Sumner a.k.a Sting, specifically his outerwear.
- 29:36Heads up: You know, he was meant to be the ultimate, you know, the pinnacle, the face and to look the best and his leather coat might have been the right color, but it was, that was a 1970s leather coat.
- 29:50Heads up: Think we had...
- 29:51Heads up: But I mean, you had some input, right?
- 29:53Heads up: What did you want to dress him in?
- 29:54Heads up: Yeah, we had a we had a suede, a red suede coat that, yeah...
- 29:58Heads up: The production just wouldn't accept it.
- 30:00Heads up: You know, mods didn't wear red suede coats.
- 30:03Heads up: I mean we know for a fact that they did because a dear friend of ours used to wear one.
- 30:09Heads up: Paolo Hewitt says none other than Paul Weller disdained the film for similar reasons.
- 30:13Heads up: And he says some viewers noticed even more unforgivable flaws.
- 30:16Heads up: Do you know what the funny-- I spoke to Frank Rodham, do you know what he told me?
- 30:18Heads up: What the funniest one was?
- 30:20Heads up: - What?
- 30:20Heads up: - It's the bit where Jimmy goes to the supermarket to see Leslie Ash.
- 30:24Heads up: She's at the till- and she's swiping stuff through- Groceries.
- 30:28Heads up: Yeah, she swiped through this tin of hot chocolate, Cadbury's hot chocolate and Frank said he got a letter saying, Damn, dear Mr. Rodham, your movie is completely flawed.
- 30:38Heads up: The tin of hot chocolate, that particular make wasn't made until 1974.
- 30:44Heads up: But if Eddie Piller and his crew of mod revivalists noticed any of that, they absolutely did not care.
- 30:52Heads up: It was August, August 79, a local place at Woodford the ABC Woodford Cinema.
- 31:00Heads up: Thirty or forty us went, young mods to see it.
- 31:03Heads up: And I never forget seeing it the first time it was so important to me and to my friends.
- 31:09Heads up: It changed everything.
- 31:11Heads up: Especially when it came to clothes.
- 31:13Heads up: As much as O.G. Modernist, dissed some of Quad's fashion choices.
- 31:17Heads up: Eddie says the movie showed him there was more to mod than cheap suits and parkas.
- 31:21Heads up: Alright darlin'? Biggest example, the scene where Jimmy, played by the brilliant Phil Daniels, brags to his crush, Leslie Ash, about the sweet outfit he's getting tailor made.
- 31:31Heads up: Yeah what's it like?Handsome. Three buttonsside vents, 16 inch bottoms, dark brown. Up till that time we were dressing very much second hand, going down the East End markets on a Sunday morning and buying clothes.
- 31:45Heads up: After that...
- 31:46Heads up: We'd think about getting suits made or, you know, going down to tailors and paying weekly so you could save up for the suit.
- 31:53Heads up: Going to be one of the faces down there, are you?What do you mean, going to be?I am one of the faces. That's when mod differentiated.
- 32:02Heads up: Everyone looked the same.
- 32:04Heads up: But after Quadrophenia, they didn't.
- 32:06Heads up: They looked original and different.
- 32:09Heads up: In fact, it sounds like it started to feel a lot like Roger Burton's young mod-hood in Leicester.
- 32:14Heads up: A sartorial arms race.
- 32:16Heads up: I mean, it was getting more and more ridiculous, actually.
- 32:21Heads up: People were wearing suits from a tailors that had butterfly cuffs and step-downs we called them, on the bottom of trousers.
- 32:29Heads up: Where the back of the suit was longer than the front, so it fell down the back of your shoes without leaving a crease.
- 32:36Heads up: You know, just mad, obsessive things.
- 32:39Heads up: Meanwhile, like Ready, Steady, Go a generation earlier, Quadrophenia took the revival national.
- 32:44Heads up: I think the release of the movie sort of caught a moment and a mood.
- 32:46Heads up: Ali Catterall is a filmmaker and coauthor of Your Face Here.
- 32:50Heads up: One of the first books ever written about British cult movies.
- 32:53Heads up: There was an already a kind of burgeoning mod scene that I think the movie really sort of landed, made a huge impact with.
- 33:00Heads up: And then radiated out of London into sort of regional UK.
- 33:03Heads up: Definitely scooter clubs, which had never died out in parts of the country, attracted a new wave of kids in Quad's wake.
- 33:09Heads up: And Frank Rodham says it didn't hurt that as subcultures went mod, was more practical.
- 33:14Heads up: Punk was much more revolutionary than the mod movement.
- 33:17Heads up: But the thing about punk, it wasn't for everybody.
- 33:20Heads up: Not everybody wanted to dress like a punk or could pull it off, you know, behave like a punk.
- 33:25Heads up: I always think about American sport, like football and basketball.
- 33:28Heads up: You have to be like 6'6" to play basketball and you have to be 300lbs to play American football.
- 33:34Heads up: Punk was like that.
- 33:35Heads up: Yes, you could have a safety pin through your nose, but you couldn't go and work in a bank like that.
- 33:39Heads up: You couldn't go down the factory like that.
- 33:41Heads up: It was quite strangely elitist punk.
- 33:43Heads up: So I think, you know, with Quad, I think it did help the transition back to sort of modernism.
- 33:48Heads up: It was happening so fast, you know, in the space of that year from from January to December in 1979, there went from being maybe 500 mods in the country to being hundreds of thousands of mods.
- 34:01Heads up: It was really strange.
- 34:07Heads up: Strange, but not really a surprise.
- 34:10Heads up: Even before the movie came out, mod revivalist figured it would blow things up.
- 34:14Heads up: You don't think being a mod's just another thing after...Quadrophenia's going to end all that.- What do you think will happen...
- 34:19Heads up: - It's going to commercialize itAnd you're going to get all the shops, like the punk shopsand all the little kiddies following on.Yeah, it's going to end it all.I mean, getting too big now. And Ali Catterall says in London sure enough, the cash-in began.
- 34:34Heads up: Yeah, mod clubs start to open, taking inspiration directly from Quadrophenia.
- 34:38Heads up: And Carnaby Street it started opening, sort of, mod shops and selling parkas that look like duvet covers.
- 34:45Heads up: But big brands were in on the action too.
- 34:47Heads up: So this is a 1980 newsletter it's called Levi's International.
- 34:51Heads up: Tracey Panek is the in-house historian at Levi Strauss.
- 34:55Heads up: The company's 501 jeans were coveted by sixties mods and they are worn by basically everyone in Quadrophenia, not by accident.
- 35:03Heads up: So this is 1980, and it's a profile of one of our employees in, London.
- 35:08Heads up: His name was Howie, and this is what they describe"Howie put his talents"to work on the new mod revival in the UK"with the release of The Who films Quadrophenia.
- 35:20Heads up: "Levi's tied in with the film by providing the cast with Levi's 501s"and putting point of sale material"in record stores and movie theaters.
- 35:31Heads up: "This, says Howie, resulted in a rerelease of the 501 jean in the UK to meet the new demand." Every teenage craze has one thing in common There's money in it for somebody.
- 35:43Heads up: And then there's The Who, who joined up with a London fashion outfit called Suchi to debut a Quadrophenia clothing line at London's Lyceum Ballroom a few weeks after the movie debuted.
- 35:53Heads up: Celebrities like John Entwistle and Kenny Jones of The Who here because their money financed the film.
- 36:00Heads up: And the BBC show Nationwide, Entwistle made no bones about what that fashion show was all about.
- 36:06Heads up: Well, if there's going to be a new mod culture.Why shouldn't we partake in some way?Is it just purely a commercial venture?As far as I know, yes. But the gold rush wasn't going to last.
- 36:21Heads up: Now, a band from South London,they're called the Chords, and this is their current single.It's called Maybe Tomorrow. In January 1980, The Chords cracked the UK top 40 with this Jam-like hit.
- 36:32Heads up: Sometmes I just feel these crazy dreams inside They were one of the few mod acts to hit the charts in the wake of Quadrophenia.
- 36:40Heads up: That summer, the Purple Hearts actually hit number 60 with a tune called Jimmy, an ode to the movie's hero.
- 36:50Heads up: And then all of a sudden...
- 36:54Heads up: it all stopped.
- 36:55Heads up: By the end of 1981, it was pretty much finished.
- 37:01Heads up: What happened do you think that ended that first wave of the mod revival?
- 37:05Heads up: - Like what?
- 37:05Heads up: - It's a good question.
- 37:07Heads up: It was absolute vilification by the music press.
- 37:12Heads up: The music press did not like mods because it was a street movement from the streets.
- 37:17Heads up: Whereas the favorite movement of the music press and media, they were all university graduates, was post-punk, you know, The Mekons, Gang of Four.
- 37:29Heads up: It was an intellectual movement.
- 37:31Heads up: And reviews of bands started being about, you know, scooters, get on your little scooter, ride away kind of thing.
- 37:38Heads up: And in the end, they did.
- 37:40Heads up: Paolo Hewitt thinks mod was just one of a slew of trends Britain's pop culture industry hyped and discarded in the eighties.
- 37:46Heads up: For a different set of cynical reasons.
- 37:48Heads up: If you take The NME, The NME was kind of struggling.
- 37:52Heads up: And then punk came along.
- 37:53Heads up: And they got onto it much to their credit very early, and by 1977 they were selling 250,000 copies a week.
- 38:01Heads up: Right?
- 38:03Heads up: That's a lot a lot of money being poured in.
- 38:05Heads up: And everybody realized that there was a lot of money to be had if you got in on the right thing.
- 38:10Heads up: And that's why all these movements started sprouting up like the mod revival, the ska revival, the this revival the that revival.
- 38:19Heads up: It just all came up.
- 38:20Heads up: By his telling mod got its 15 minutes and then it was on to the next subculture.
- 38:25Heads up: In any case...
- 38:26Heads up: The Jam split up in December 82 and with them mod was finished.
- 38:34Heads up: And I thought that would be the end.
- 38:36Heads up: It wasn't.
- 38:37Heads up: Yeah, like a brood of well-dressed cicadas mod has a way of laying low and then blooming out of nowhere.
- 38:43Heads up: And since 79 every flowering seems to involve Quadrophenia.
- 38:48Heads up: Please join me in welcomingfrom England, Blur. Like I still remember in 1993, seeing the band Blur play their song Chemical World on a brand new talk show calledLate Night With Conan O'Brien.
- 39:05Heads up: Front man Damon Albarn was wearing a slim three button suit.
- 39:09Heads up: My first glimpse of the mod inspired mid-nineties Britpop explosion.
- 39:13Heads up: The pay-me girl has had enough of the bleepsSo she takes the bus into the countryAlthough she... And what do you know, on the title cut of their next album, Parklife...
- 39:23Heads up: Oi! There was Quadrophenia's Jimmy himself, actor Phil Daniels contributing a running monologue.
- 39:31Heads up: Confidence is a preference for the habitual voyeurOf what is known asParklife! And the very next year in 1995, with Britpop in full swing and UK bands like Oasis sashaying around in parkas mod returned to the fashion runway.
- 39:47Heads up: There was a whole mod collection where I opened the show and Linda Evangelista came out on a Vespa.
- 39:53Heads up: That is superstar designer Anna Sui.
- 39:53Heads up: She has always been inspired by Mod and sixties UK bands.
- 39:59Heads up: And a formative moment came just as she was starting out circa 1979.
- 40:04Heads up: Oh sure, I went to the New York premiere of Quadrophenia.
- 40:08Heads up: It was on Eighth Street and it was, I believe, the premiere because Sting was there.
- 40:14Heads up: I remember he came walking through the movie lobby and everyone...
- 40:17Heads up: "The Face! The Face!" Do you think that movie specifically, like gave you a new way of seeing or like sort of crystallized the look for you in any way?
- 40:26Heads up: Oh yeah, definitely.
- 40:28Heads up: It gave me a new vantage point in looking at mod because I had only seen mod through record covers and music magazines and suddenly, like I see the everyday mod those army, navy parkas like the fishtail jackets.
- 40:46Heads up: And, you know, in that whole scene in Brighton, you know, like so was just it was a whole new thing to me.
- 40:53Heads up: And for evidence, the movie still resonates today just pay a visit to Brighton and step into Quadrophenia Alley.
- 40:59Heads up: It's not just the place full of mod graffiti.
- 41:02Heads up: The shop right next door.
- 41:05Heads up: - Let me ask your name.
- 41:05Heads up: - Paul Bone.
- 41:07Heads up: And what do you do?
- 41:08Heads up: I work in Quadrophenia Alley Store.
- 41:11Heads up: When Paul Bone and his partner John Lasseter opened the place nine years ago, it was called Bone Clothing.
- 41:17Heads up: The plan was to sell the same menswear as their other shop 15 miles away.
- 41:21Heads up: Italian suits, that sort of thing.
- 41:23Heads up: They got no buyers.
- 41:24Heads up: We stood here all day taking no money, but we were completely aware of the alleyway and what it represented.
- 41:31Heads up: People would stop in to have their photograph taken by the alleyway, and we thought well perhaps there was something in it for us.
- 41:37Heads up: They decided to stock one of the staples of the Quadrophenia look, Fred Perry style polo shirts striped around the collar and sleeves.
- 41:44Heads up: We purchased 120 Lambretta tipped polo shirts and they came in on the Thursday and I was in the other store on a Saturday afternoon and they called me out and they said,"You know those polo shirts?" I said, Yeah.
- 41:56Heads up: They said, "They've all gone." I said, "What, all of them?" They said, "Every single one." Realizing they were on to something, they cleared the Italian suits out of the shop.
- 42:04Heads up: Restocked it with all this mod type clothing, and we doubled the turnover in the first year.
- 42:10Heads up: And we realized then that we did underestimate the popularity of the movie.
- 42:16Heads up: And to be fair, as a sometimes mod myself, I can't quite understand why I'm so into this movie.
- 42:22Heads up: For reasons that I put to Ali Catterall, who, by the way, has made his own pilgrimage to Quadrophenia Alley.
- 42:26Heads up: I've graffitid it myself, to be honest.
- 42:28Heads up: I actually have a question for you about this.
- 42:30Heads up: - Okay.
- 42:30Heads up: - This movie has become such a mod Bible that mods come from everywhere to graffiti this alley, but the movie's actually not that, you know, high on mod.
- 42:41Heads up: In fact, the original concept is basically saying, you know, this is a dead end.
- 42:45Heads up: You won't find yourself in this army, you won't find yourself in a mob.
- 42:48Heads up: Why do you think it resonated with mods in the late seventies and with mods today when that's its message?
- 42:53Heads up: I think, I think that comes out of Pete Townsend's inherent depressive cynicism.
- 42:59Heads up: Really, that kind of attitude.
- 43:01Heads up: If we remove Townsend's cynicism from it, the film in itself is one of the most joyful exuberant, exhilarating evocations of youth and what it means to be young.
- 43:12Heads up: And in love and being off your head and not knowing your place, not knowing who you are but slowly, slowly clawing away towards finding those truths.
- 43:22Heads up: If you watched the movie carefully, Jimmy, he's walking away from the cliff top at the end of that movie.
- 43:28Heads up: He's facing a new dawn, if you like, literally a new dawn in which hopefully he's going to discover himself.
- 43:33Heads up: And I think modern mods took some optimism away from that during what was quite definitely a very pessimistic era.
- 43:41Heads up: And optimism I think is actually the essence of mod.
- 43:45Heads up: And maybe why the look never really goes away.
- 43:48Heads up: It might seem nostalgic or a throwback, but what it feels like when I wear it is hopeful.
- 43:55Heads up: Staying sharp, even when everything's a shambles.
- 43:58Heads up: And looking forward to the modern world.
- 44:14Heads up: And that's the MUBI Podcast for this week.
- 44:16Heads up: Follow us this season for more stories about film and fashion.
- 44:19Heads up: Next time double Oscar winning costume designer Ruth E. Carter tells us about the street style she dreamed up for Spike Lee's Do the Right Thing.
- 44:27Heads up: Both timeless and not so timeless.
- 44:29Heads up: Joie Lee's character, we gave her a Swatch watch that she put on her ankle.
- 44:34Heads up: We thought we'd set a trend with it, but it didn't set any trends.
- 44:38Heads up: Follow us so you don't miss it.
- 44:39Heads up: Meanwhile, this episode of the MUBI Podcast was written, hosted and edited by me, Rico Gagliano.
- 44:44Heads up: Ciara McEniff is our producer.
- 44:45Heads up: Beth Schiff is our booking producer.
- 44:47Heads up: Stephen Colon mastered it.
- 44:48Heads up: Music by Martin Austwick.
- 44:50Heads up: The additional track Blueprint by Jahzzar came courtesy of Tribe of Noise.
- 44:54Heads up: Extra thanks this week to David Harper, Michael Gino, Melis Uslu and Ali Catterall.
- 44:59Heads up: Ali is co-director of the new documentary Scala about the legendary London cinema of the same name.
- 45:06Heads up: You can see it now in UK theaters and then go back and check out our episode about the Scala back in season two.
- 45:12Heads up: This show is executive produced by me along with Jon Barrenechea, Efe Çakarel, Daniel Kasman and Michael Tacca.
- 45:18Heads up: If you love the show, tell the world by leaving a five star review wherever you listen, let them know were something special.
- 45:24Heads up: Also, if you've got questions, comments, or if you are at this moment wearing a parka and itching to tell me everything I got wrong about mod, email us at podcast@mubi.com And of course, to stream the best in cinema, including some of the films we talk about on this very podcast just head over to MUBI.com to start watching.
- 45:44Heads up: Thanks for listening.
- 45:44Heads up: Be safe and may all your movie outings be worth dressing up for.