Latest / Earn Your Leisure / EYL #206 Dapper Dan on the Fashion Business, Kanye, & Challenges for Black Designers

Transcript

EYL #206 Dapper Dan on the Fashion Business, Kanye, & Challenges for Black Designers · Earn Your Leisure

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  Speaker 2: Hip hop is about that, you know. And look what
• 1:01
  Speaker 2: we took in jazz and everything we did.
• 1:03
  Speaker 3: That's what we do. We take what we've been pushed.
• 1:06
  Speaker 2: Out of us and then we translated into a way
• 1:09
  Speaker 2: where we can market it for ourselves, you know.
• 1:12
  Speaker 3: And that's what I tell young people coming up to date.
• 1:14
  Speaker 3: I do not dictate fashion. I translate culture.
• 1:20
  Speaker 4: My graduates from my school being forced back drop bag drop, Mike,
• 1:26
  Speaker 4: drop backdrop.
• 1:39
  Speaker 2: I need you guys to make some noise for Troy
• 1:41
  Speaker 2: and Rashad.
• 1:42
  Speaker 3: Make some noise for earn your leisure.
• 1:47
  Speaker 5: What's up?
• 1:47
  Speaker 3: We in New York? Right, ya? Gotta make more noise
• 1:50
  Speaker 3: than that. What up, y'all? Let's set the mood right,
• 1:54
  Speaker 3: Let's set the mood right. What's going on?
• 1:57
  Speaker 6: Yeah, yeah, I love to see this man make some
• 1:59
  Speaker 6: noise for your self, ladies and gentlemen.
• 2:03
  Speaker 5: So when we.
• 2:05
  Speaker 6: Did this, we wanted to do something special, and we did.
• 2:10
  Speaker 5: We did Miami, We did.
• 2:11
  Speaker 6: Our Basle south By Southwest brush shout out to Ally Shots,
• 2:15
  Speaker 6: to United Masters. But we're from New York, so this
• 2:18
  Speaker 6: means more to us than anything to do something in
• 2:20
  Speaker 6: Fashion Week legendary. Of course, if you follow us, you
• 2:24
  Speaker 6: already know the fashion journey, the drip journey. So we
• 2:30
  Speaker 6: got we got some surprises for you guys, were about
• 2:33
  Speaker 6: to get this show really really turned up. So anytime
• 2:36
  Speaker 6: that we speak to anybody, it's always a legendary conversation.
• 2:39
  Speaker 3: That's a fact.
• 2:41
  Speaker 5: Yes, of course, the rumors have been confirmed.
• 2:44
  Speaker 3: Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes.
• 2:45
  Speaker 6: So when we had this conversation and we figured who
• 2:49
  Speaker 6: we wanted to talk to, there was only really one
• 2:52
  Speaker 6: person that was at the top of our list.
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  Speaker 7: If we're going to do fashion and we're gonna do
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  Speaker 7: New York, and we're gonna keep it hip hop and
• 3:00
  Speaker 7: we're gonna keep a business and finance, there's not many
• 3:03
  Speaker 7: people who can fit all those criterias. But I think
• 3:06
  Speaker 7: I think we might have nailed it. I think we
• 3:08
  Speaker 7: might have nailed it.
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  Speaker 6: Yeah, So all right, I need everybody to pay close
• 3:14
  Speaker 6: attention because this is a very important person. So if
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  Speaker 6: you look at the history of hip hop, hip hop
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  Speaker 6: has always been about fashion since the beginning, and there's
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  Speaker 6: been one person that's actually curated over three decades of
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  Speaker 6: fashion and has really been the four father of what
• 3:32
  Speaker 6: we know now today.
• 3:34
  Speaker 5: So without further ado, we're going to bring out the
• 3:36
  Speaker 5: legendary Dapid.
• 3:37
  Speaker 3: But then, y'all, you.
• 3:47
  Speaker 2: Know, I was telling them backstage, they're not playing field.
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  Speaker 2: They told me when I came here it was gonna
• 3:52
  Speaker 2: be only one Dapi Dad now the street.
• 3:59
  Speaker 3: I hope you heard that, So I yoding, I'm so
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  Speaker 3: happy to be y'all.
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  Speaker 2: Thank you, thank you for giving me the opportunity to
• 4:05
  Speaker 2: reach your people.
• 4:10
  Speaker 8: Hey listen, everybody, this is your man, Steve Harvey. My
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  Speaker 5: Dapa. Damn, my brother, how are you man?
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  Speaker 3: I'm great. I'm great man to be here man, to watch.
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  Speaker 2: This culture and see how the culture came about, man,
• 5:05
  Speaker 2: and to be able to speak to you young brothers
• 5:07
  Speaker 2: and get messages out, I'm very happy man.
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  Speaker 3: Nah for sure, we appreciate you being here.
• 5:12
  Speaker 1: Man.
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  Speaker 6: What are your views on ownership? We talk about black brands.
• 5:17
  Speaker 6: We talk about ownership. Of course, Kanye is going through
• 5:19
  Speaker 6: what he's going through right now. This is his fashion week,
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  Speaker 6: so we celebrate fashion, but we're into business and business.
• 5:25
  Speaker 5: Fashion is a business.
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  Speaker 6: So what's your views on ownership, specifically Black ownership when
• 5:29
  Speaker 6: it comes to the fashion world.
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  Speaker 2: Ownership is important, very important, and the most important thing
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  Speaker 2: about ownership because we cannot own everything that we need
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  Speaker 2: to reach the to be global, but.
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  Speaker 3: The important thing is to own our name, you know.
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  Speaker 2: And in the future, I'm hoping that we get big
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  Speaker 2: enough that we can be.
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  Speaker 3: Global by ourself.
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  Speaker 2: But right now, presently, the most important thing is to
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  Speaker 2: not The reason why I never came out before is
• 6:02
  Speaker 2: because I didn't want to give.
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  Speaker 3: Up my name, you know.
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  Speaker 2: I just wanted to franchise my name out for a while,
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  Speaker 2: but never giving up. So right now, in the state
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  Speaker 2: of where we are, I think ownership means owning your
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  Speaker 2: brand and who you are and being able to take
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  Speaker 2: that brand and collaborate with different other brands. So ownership
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  Speaker 2: to me now is having your barcaining chips on your brand.
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  Speaker 7: Yeah, one of the things, and we're products of it,
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  Speaker 7: so it means a lot for you. Saying that there's
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  Speaker 7: three Dipa dans up here growing up in the eighties,
• 6:34
  Speaker 7: watching Kars one and BDP, washing rock Kiem, watching ll
• 6:39
  Speaker 7: obviously watching the soult On Pepper videos.
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  Speaker 3: Huge inspiration.
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  Speaker 7: Can you talk to us about symbolism right, because one
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  Speaker 7: of the things you said it was like, all right,
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  Speaker 7: those brands are luxury, but they're not doing it the
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  Speaker 7: way we want. Let me take what they're doing and
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  Speaker 7: mix it with our culture. Can you talk about the
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  Speaker 7: power of symbolism?
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  Speaker 3: Yes.
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  Speaker 2: Oh.
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  Speaker 3: When I changed my life like and excepting the spiritual.
• 7:02
  Speaker 2: Side of myself, I realized I had an identity problem.
• 7:06
  Speaker 2: And so because I had an identity problem, I used
• 7:08
  Speaker 2: to study a lot.
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  Speaker 3: You know. I wanted to know the essence of truth.
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  Speaker 2: My family was all in the nation at this time,
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  Speaker 2: and I was industricted in the nation. All my foundation
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  Speaker 2: came for that, but I wanted to know the ultimate truth.
• 7:21
  Speaker 2: And so in search of the ultimate truth, I left here,
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  Speaker 2: you know, I walked away from the street, left here.
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  Speaker 3: And went to Africa and started researching living.
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  Speaker 2: I never lived in hotels, you know, I just lived
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  Speaker 2: in with the people. And my journey was about finding
• 7:35
  Speaker 2: the essence of what religions is about. And in my
• 7:40
  Speaker 2: study and what I found out that all the religions
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  Speaker 2: goes back to a symbol, and so I needed to
• 7:46
  Speaker 2: know what that symbol was. And the when I started
• 7:48
  Speaker 2: studying masonry, I say, oh, here it is, this is
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  Speaker 2: how it all evolved. So when I came back, I
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  Speaker 2: did a lot of reading, but I say, now I
• 7:56
  Speaker 2: need to be able to take care of myself. So
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  Speaker 2: I opened up the store to self clothes and everything.
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  Speaker 2: And a gangster, one of the yangsters that knew me
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  Speaker 2: from my hood. He came into the store and he
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  Speaker 2: had a pouch you know what, no bigger than that,
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  Speaker 2: I'm bad, And he had nothing but one hundred dollar
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  Speaker 2: bills in it. And he was in fact, his name
• 8:18
  Speaker 2: was Jack Jackson. Jack Jackson is the one who was
• 8:21
  Speaker 2: the you if you study the history of Harlem, he
• 8:24
  Speaker 2: is the last one to control strokes in Harlem before.
• 8:29
  Speaker 3: I'm under the Italians in these halls.
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  Speaker 2: But anyway, Jack Jackson came in there and he had
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  Speaker 2: all these hundred dollar bills and all the customers in
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  Speaker 2: my store was excited about that, and they.
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  Speaker 3: Saw the bag.
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  Speaker 2: I said, why are they excited about this bag? What
• 8:41
  Speaker 2: is it about this bag? I said, that was a
• 8:43
  Speaker 2: lousiton bag. I say, but that five dollars worth of vinyl, right,
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  Speaker 2: And then it hit me it's the symbols, I say,
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  Speaker 2: it's the symbols. I say, now, if I can get
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  Speaker 2: them walking around looking like them, symbols like luggage. Now,
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  Speaker 2: prior to that, I was selling Manx first, you know, alligators,
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  Speaker 2: all those exotic stuff. I said, but if I could
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  Speaker 2: teach myself textile printing and print that on a level,
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  Speaker 2: I can get the same more amount of revenue than
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  Speaker 2: I was getting from the more items.
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  Speaker 3: And so that's what made me understand the.
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  Speaker 2: Powered symbols and how in turn that that was infiltrating
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  Speaker 2: the whole consumer market.
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  Speaker 3: And so that's why I started.
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  Speaker 2: I said, well, I'm gonna take these symbols and use
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  Speaker 2: them on them the way they was trying to use
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  Speaker 2: them on me.
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  Speaker 4: Yeah.
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  Speaker 7: Yeah, I mean technically that really started the crave or
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  Speaker 7: the sensation of logo mania.
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  Speaker 3: And so a lot of people maybe not from that generation.
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  Speaker 7: Because they've grown up, they've seen it all throughout their lives.
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  Speaker 3: You really started that. Can you tell them what logo
• 9:51
  Speaker 3: mania is?
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  Speaker 2: Logo Mania is an idea, like you know, young guys
• 9:57
  Speaker 2: coming there and if they happy with one raw ran pony,
• 10:01
  Speaker 2: I said, hold on, if they're happy with one of
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  Speaker 2: the pony and they only getting them suits and gray
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  Speaker 2: and blue and black, I say, people of color, I say,
• 10:10
  Speaker 2: I'm gonna give them all the ponies in the world
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  Speaker 2: and all the colors in the rainbow, you know. And
• 10:18
  Speaker 2: I did that with every brand, you know. And that's
• 10:20
  Speaker 2: what we do with music. So I don't know why
• 10:21
  Speaker 2: it was so complicated for them to figure it out,
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  Speaker 2: you know. So I took it. I mean, none of
• 10:26
  Speaker 2: us were as slaves. We didn't come here speaking this language.
• 10:28
  Speaker 2: But look what we did with it. Hip hop is
• 10:30
  Speaker 2: about that language, you know. And look what we took
• 10:32
  Speaker 2: in jazz and everything we did. That's what we do.
• 10:35
  Speaker 2: We take what we was been pushed out of us,
• 10:38
  Speaker 2: and then we translated into a way where we can
• 10:41
  Speaker 2: market it for ourselves, you know.
• 10:43
  Speaker 3: And that's what I tell young people coming up today.
• 10:45
  Speaker 2: I do not dictate fashion. I translate culture.
• 10:56
  Speaker 6: Big ball, major ball. So so let me let me
• 11:02
  Speaker 6: ask you this, let me what they want you to
• 11:07
  Speaker 6: say it again.
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  Speaker 2: This is for y'all young I don't I mean, that's
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  Speaker 2: my heart. I do not dictate fashion. I translate culture.
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  Speaker 2: Let me give you an example, right, I'm gonna I
• 11:18
  Speaker 2: don't give you an example. So b DP come to
• 11:24
  Speaker 2: the shop. They say that I need for you to
• 11:26
  Speaker 2: hook me up. I need for you to hook me
• 11:28
  Speaker 2: up that I say, okay, what's your lyrics? Let me
• 11:31
  Speaker 2: hear your lyrics? Okay, what's your theeeze? What I mean
• 11:34
  Speaker 2: what you're trying to represent? They say, we wrapping this
• 11:36
  Speaker 2: this this Jamaican stuff, right. I say, okay, Now I'm
• 11:40
  Speaker 2: gonna make use some roster looking stuff. So I use
• 11:43
  Speaker 2: and I use all the every all the elements, you know,
• 11:46
  Speaker 2: the colors from the rosters and everything. Right, that's b
• 11:49
  Speaker 2: d P.
• 11:50
  Speaker 3: The next one, Tom.
• 11:52
  Speaker 2: Is a Jungle Brothers. Jungle Brothers said, Man, I'm on
• 11:54
  Speaker 2: that liberation thing. I'm about liberation that make me look
• 11:58
  Speaker 2: really you know, bring like that for me. So I
• 12:01
  Speaker 2: made all the office up and the red, green, black,
• 12:04
  Speaker 2: the power move.
• 12:06
  Speaker 3: You understand what I'm saying. Eric being rock Camp come,
• 12:10
  Speaker 3: Eric B said, I'm a swag man.
• 12:13
  Speaker 2: He said, I'm a swagman. Give me all them geez,
• 12:15
  Speaker 2: give me that gold. I mean, like you see, look
• 12:17
  Speaker 2: at the office, you know, deck me out like that
• 12:21
  Speaker 2: rock for him saying that, you know I'm on that
• 12:23
  Speaker 2: smooth tip man.
• 12:25
  Speaker 3: You know.
• 12:28
  Speaker 2: I'm here to serve man. You know I'm a part
• 12:31
  Speaker 2: of the movement. Man, you understand I'm not with the death,
• 12:35
  Speaker 2: dumb and blind man. You know what I want on
• 12:37
  Speaker 2: the back of mine.
• 12:38
  Speaker 3: You know what I'm saying.
• 12:39
  Speaker 2: Said when you look on the back of Eric, I
• 12:41
  Speaker 2: mean rock chemist. You know, you see the symbol representing
• 12:45
  Speaker 2: who he is. So that's what That's what translating culture is.
• 12:49
  Speaker 2: You know what I'm saying. You translate culture based on where.
• 12:53
  Speaker 3: People want to go.
• 12:54
  Speaker 2: You don't tell him where to go, because when you
• 12:56
  Speaker 2: tell them where to go, you kill who we are.
• 13:00
  Speaker 3: Do you feel what I'm saying?
• 13:00
  Speaker 2: Then it stops. It's like what the what them brands do?
• 13:03
  Speaker 2: You know what music companies do? Now?
• 13:05
  Speaker 3: We want you to rap like this. We want you
• 13:06
  Speaker 3: to wrap like this next thing.
• 13:08
  Speaker 2: You know you wrap.
• 13:08
  Speaker 3: Dead, you know. So that's what I call translateting.
• 13:13
  Speaker 6: Coach told you man, we only we only bring the fireworks.
• 13:21
  Speaker 6: So you talked about your trip to Africa. I want
• 13:25
  Speaker 6: to talk about that a little bit.
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• 14:19
  Speaker 6: Now, when you went to Africa, you was talking about
• 14:23
  Speaker 6: the difference between idiot me and like a Nelson Mandela,
• 14:28
  Speaker 6: relating this to even when you was working with Gucci,
• 14:31
  Speaker 6: and a lot of people might have criticized that, but
• 14:35
  Speaker 6: talk about having to learn the power structure from the
• 14:39
  Speaker 6: inside to actually make.
• 14:41
  Speaker 3: It work, great point, and I'm happy to talk about that. Right. First,
• 14:46
  Speaker 3: let's talk about why I went to Africa.
• 14:48
  Speaker 2: I was in the street terrible, man, you know, living terrible,
• 14:51
  Speaker 2: and at twenty three, I said, Man, I'm going back
• 14:54
  Speaker 2: to school. Man, I can't take this, and I walked
• 14:56
  Speaker 2: away from the street and went back to school. So
• 14:58
  Speaker 2: I was writing for a rap a newspaper called forty
• 15:01
  Speaker 2: Acres in the Mule, and we was about raising up
• 15:06
  Speaker 2: the culture and it was very revolutionary. So we used
• 15:12
  Speaker 2: to have black scholars coming in all the time talking
• 15:14
  Speaker 2: to us. I knew I had an identity crisis, but
• 15:18
  Speaker 2: I didn't know exactly what it was.
• 15:21
  Speaker 3: So one day doctor Henry Clark came.
• 15:22
  Speaker 2: To the and talked to the all of us that
• 15:26
  Speaker 2: was on the editory board. And doctor Henry Clark, one
• 15:29
  Speaker 2: of the brothers, young brothers like myself, asked Doctor Henry Clark.
• 15:33
  Speaker 2: He said, if we the original people on the planet,
• 15:35
  Speaker 2: why are we going through what we're going through today?
• 15:38
  Speaker 2: And Doctor Henry Clark said, that's because of a transgression
• 15:42
  Speaker 2: we made against ourself before Europeans came into our life.
• 15:45
  Speaker 2: And that shook me, you know what I'm saying, Because
• 15:48
  Speaker 2: I had studied like up from slavery before the Mayflower
• 15:52
  Speaker 2: and all that. But I didn't go back to where
• 15:54
  Speaker 2: all this started, right, So I figured out my identity
• 15:57
  Speaker 2: crisis came when it hit me in Africa.
• 16:00
  Speaker 3: Right.
• 16:02
  Speaker 2: I was associating everything that went wrong with my life
• 16:05
  Speaker 2: with the four hundred years we were here. So so
• 16:09
  Speaker 2: when I when I got to Africa and I touched
• 16:12
  Speaker 2: down at Ghano on a seven day mission night, and
• 16:15
  Speaker 2: the beautiful thing about it, I had already caught all
• 16:18
  Speaker 2: the hell that America could give you and all the
• 16:21
  Speaker 2: hell that the ghetto can give itself. So when I'm
• 16:24
  Speaker 2: over there, I'm open, right. So I get over there
• 16:26
  Speaker 2: and I ask this African guy, I say, do you
• 16:30
  Speaker 2: think every day about being black? He said, Man, I
• 16:33
  Speaker 2: don't never think about being black? He said, I never
• 16:36
  Speaker 2: think about that. I'm gonna cont cool you. You know,
• 16:38
  Speaker 2: I think about being a could cool you. I said, Wow,
• 16:40
  Speaker 2: it's deep right here, right. And then I think about
• 16:42
  Speaker 2: every time I'm in New York, on wherever I am,
• 16:45
  Speaker 2: I'm going in the subway, whenever I see somebody who
• 16:47
  Speaker 2: ain't like me, that's automatic, beyond my consciousness. So I
• 16:50
  Speaker 2: needed to know why that. So when I went to Africa,
• 16:53
  Speaker 2: I stayed there. I was in Ghana when they just
• 16:56
  Speaker 2: recently disposed of Kwame Newkuma paying out Africanism. So I'm
• 17:01
  Speaker 2: in Tanzania when President in the area is there. I'm
• 17:05
  Speaker 2: in Kenya when Joe Moo Kenyatta is there. I'm uh.
• 17:09
  Speaker 2: And I'm staying at Kurrasini International School where they're training
• 17:12
  Speaker 2: young black people from South Africa to fight in South Africa.
• 17:15
  Speaker 2: So I'm exposed to us. So I'm taking a look
• 17:18
  Speaker 2: at what's happening. But now I'm seeing the conflict with idiot,
• 17:24
  Speaker 2: I mean, and what was what happened? And there I say, wow,
• 17:27
  Speaker 2: so maybe this is what uh, doctor Henry Clark was
• 17:31
  Speaker 2: talking about.
• 17:32
  Speaker 3: So I bear a witness to the way they was
• 17:34
  Speaker 3: approaching it.
• 17:35
  Speaker 2: Now, if you're if you know anything about aving history,
• 17:37
  Speaker 2: you know that Kenya had to can cool you in
• 17:40
  Speaker 2: the Luau, you know, and it was friction. Now when
• 17:43
  Speaker 2: my plane touched down and Legos, Nigeria, I could we
• 17:47
  Speaker 2: couldn't even get off the plane because they be offering
• 17:50
  Speaker 2: the Muslims and the Christian black people were fighting. So
• 17:53
  Speaker 2: I said, oh, that's what doctor Henry Clark was talking about.
• 17:57
  Speaker 2: All right, but I don't want to take go too
• 17:59
  Speaker 2: far off now. So when I'm over there like that,
• 18:02
  Speaker 2: I'll say, well, what are they doing about the Europeans?
• 18:05
  Speaker 2: Then I said, President Knee Harry got the Chinese Bysilian road.
• 18:10
  Speaker 2: You know what I'm saying, He got the United States
• 18:12
  Speaker 2: building the railroad. I say, he playing these Europeans. So
• 18:16
  Speaker 2: the Object and Joe Kenyada and the area, all of
• 18:19
  Speaker 2: them was doing the thing. So they know that they
• 18:22
  Speaker 2: are conquered people. But they also know that they need
• 18:25
  Speaker 2: technology and innovation and they have to get it from
• 18:28
  Speaker 2: where it is. So that's equivalent to what I use.
• 18:31
  Speaker 2: When I went in the fashion, I say, I got
• 18:33
  Speaker 2: to get inside. You feel what I'm saying. I got
• 18:36
  Speaker 2: to get inside. I got to be able to access
• 18:40
  Speaker 2: innovation by which I can grow. You feel what I'm saying.
• 18:45
  Speaker 2: And this is one of the controversies that I had
• 18:46
  Speaker 2: to confront.
• 18:47
  Speaker 3: If you tell.
• 18:48
  Speaker 2: Somebody, look, people want to see you on your own.
• 18:53
  Speaker 3: They want you to see you bet there but there.
• 18:55
  Speaker 2: And like I told you backstage, if I came out
• 18:57
  Speaker 2: twenty years or twenty five years ago, been dapper dam,
• 19:00
  Speaker 2: they didn knock me right out the market. I wouldn't
• 19:03
  Speaker 2: be able to compete globally.
• 19:05
  Speaker 3: Say they took which they did, took all my ideas
• 19:08
  Speaker 3: and took them global.
• 19:10
  Speaker 2: So the object for me, I felt, was say, I
• 19:13
  Speaker 2: got to figure out how.
• 19:14
  Speaker 3: To be global, so and tools.
• 19:16
  Speaker 2: Then I stay on the ground, and all that change
• 19:19
  Speaker 2: with black Twitter. All that change with black Twitter.
• 19:26
  Speaker 3: I had no voice.
• 19:27
  Speaker 2: I'm sitting here, you know, oldhead, still hustling hard, ain't
• 19:32
  Speaker 2: giving up. And I see them hustling me. You know,
• 19:35
  Speaker 2: two thousand I said, tim forward with walking the runway
• 19:39
  Speaker 2: with my creation. I said damn. You know, I said damn.
• 19:43
  Speaker 2: And then all of a sudden social media popped, you know,
• 19:46
  Speaker 2: and I say, I heard people say no, capa dam
• 19:49
  Speaker 2: did that first? I said, damn, I got a voice.
• 19:56
  Speaker 2: I said, damn, I got a voice. So they had
• 19:57
  Speaker 2: to come to me. And then, you know, they had
• 20:00
  Speaker 2: to come see me then, because you'all wasn't having it in
• 20:02
  Speaker 2: any other way.
• 20:06
  Speaker 7: The reason they had to come see you is like
• 20:08
  Speaker 7: what you said to translate in culture and so can
• 20:11
  Speaker 7: you talk about the importance of involving culture and what
• 20:15
  Speaker 7: you're doing, because there's a lot of entrepreneurs here.
• 20:17
  Speaker 3: I'm sure some people and some.
• 20:19
  Speaker 7: People are in design, Can you talk about the importance
• 20:21
  Speaker 7: of incorporating and culture and what you're doing?
• 20:24
  Speaker 3: Okay.
• 20:25
  Speaker 2: One of the big things that I like the young
• 20:26
  Speaker 2: people who say it is like the reason you hear
• 20:29
  Speaker 2: me say, I don't dictate fashion, I translate culture.
• 20:33
  Speaker 3: That's very important, you know.
• 20:35
  Speaker 2: And that's the lesson I learned from growing up in Halem,
• 20:38
  Speaker 2: real poor. Swimming in the Hallan River. One thing that
• 20:41
  Speaker 2: I noticed about when I was swimming in the Holland River.
• 20:44
  Speaker 3: We had the Hollan River like you see this here.
• 20:46
  Speaker 2: You see that, you got a platform you can come out,
• 20:48
  Speaker 2: and then over there you can dive in the hallanm River. Right,
• 20:51
  Speaker 2: But before we dive into Holland River, we had to
• 20:53
  Speaker 2: throw a little popsicle in to see which way the
• 20:55
  Speaker 2: current was going.
• 20:57
  Speaker 7: You know.
• 20:57
  Speaker 3: So if we dive in, we diving over here. We
• 21:00
  Speaker 3: want to be able so we can walk out of
• 21:02
  Speaker 3: that river.
• 21:02
  Speaker 7: You know.
• 21:03
  Speaker 2: We was poor, were swimming in our drawers and all that. Right,
• 21:06
  Speaker 2: So and I said, damn. Later on, I say, I
• 21:11
  Speaker 2: realized what we did. You understand, I said, the Holland
• 21:15
  Speaker 2: River is always there, but it's always moving. All you
• 21:20
  Speaker 2: gotta do is understanding the current.
• 21:25
  Speaker 5: Right.
• 21:25
  Speaker 3: So I said, that's how the culture is. You understand.
• 21:28
  Speaker 3: You gotta understand our culture.
• 21:30
  Speaker 2: We are always gonna be here, but our culture is
• 21:33
  Speaker 2: gonna be always moving.
• 21:35
  Speaker 3: You have to know how to navigate that culture.
• 21:39
  Speaker 2: Jump in, walk out, jump.
• 21:43
  Speaker 3: Back in, and you know where to walk back out.
• 21:45
  Speaker 3: Do you understand.
• 21:46
  Speaker 2: So here's a problem with younger people today. Don't get
• 21:50
  Speaker 2: hung up on yourself.
• 21:52
  Speaker 3: That's what I'm saying.
• 21:53
  Speaker 2: Don't get young designers come to me all the time
• 21:55
  Speaker 2: they say, oh man, that but then I got this
• 21:57
  Speaker 2: crazy idea, crazy idea.
• 21:59
  Speaker 3: I said, listen, let me see.
• 22:02
  Speaker 2: So first thing you gotta do is say, first question,
• 22:05
  Speaker 2: Come on, why somebody gonna buy something from me? That's
• 22:09
  Speaker 2: the first question. I don't care what you are. You
• 22:12
  Speaker 2: you your best salesman to yourself. You because you don't
• 22:16
  Speaker 2: sow yourself on who you are. You feel what I'm saying.
• 22:19
  Speaker 2: So you say, why said I won't.
• 22:22
  Speaker 3: Buy something from me?
• 22:23
  Speaker 2: Then after you say that to yourself, the next thing
• 22:25
  Speaker 2: you say is how can I get them to buy something?
• 22:28
  Speaker 2: How can I give them a reason to buy something
• 22:30
  Speaker 2: for myself? You know what I'm saying.
• 22:32
  Speaker 3: And I figured that out. You know, I didn't. I
• 22:35
  Speaker 3: said the same way I did. Eric Bee Rock came
• 22:37
  Speaker 3: and all of them. I said, I'm.
• 22:40
  Speaker 2: Gonna collaborate everybody who walks through my door, I ask
• 22:44
  Speaker 2: them how they feel, how they want to look.
• 22:47
  Speaker 3: You know, people want to know where my life. Jefvity
• 22:49
  Speaker 3: come from, my line and jefvity come.
• 22:50
  Speaker 2: From you and you and you when you walk through
• 22:53
  Speaker 2: my door, we collaborating on you. That's your idea, me
• 22:56
  Speaker 2: and your idea, and me and your idea, and me
• 22:58
  Speaker 2: and your idea. So all that is the current. Keep
• 23:01
  Speaker 2: moving and I'm keeping tapping into the music, into the current.
• 23:04
  Speaker 3: But when you come up with them brands, and you.
• 23:06
  Speaker 2: Got everybody looking and like nobody got say soap and
• 23:09
  Speaker 2: how they look, they die. The brands die. So what
• 23:15
  Speaker 2: I'm telling you, and I'm telling everybody, man, don't get
• 23:17
  Speaker 2: caught up in yourself. We all creative, man, and we
• 23:20
  Speaker 2: all creative, but you go outside, tap into the culture,
• 23:25
  Speaker 2: blend that with who you are.
• 23:26
  Speaker 3: Man.
• 23:27
  Speaker 2: Don't get hung up with your ideas.
• 23:29
  Speaker 3: Man, you feel what I'm saying.
• 23:32
  Speaker 6: So you said something to us backstage about I was
• 23:34
  Speaker 6: saying that, you know, most what they call urban brands
• 23:38
  Speaker 6: died within a couple of years, like you know how
• 23:40
  Speaker 6: food will had, like you know a five year run.
• 23:42
  Speaker 6: Let's say calling out a five year run or Rockaway
• 23:45
  Speaker 6: or Sean John.
• 23:48
  Speaker 7: This episode is brought to you by PNC Bank. A
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  Speaker 9: Coach, the energy out there felt different. What changed for
• 25:42
  Speaker 9: the team today?
• 25:42
  Speaker 10: It was the new game day, scratches from the California
• 25:44
  Speaker 10: Lottery players, everything. Those games sent the team's energy through
• 25:48
  Speaker 10: the roof.
• 25:48
  Speaker 9: Are you saying it was the off field play that
• 25:50
  Speaker 9: made the difference on the field.
• 25:51
  Speaker 10: Hey, little play makes your day, and today it made
• 25:54
  Speaker 10: the game that's off of now, Coach, one more.
• 25:57
  Speaker 9: Question, play than you. Los Angeles Chargers, San Francis Go
• 26:00
  Speaker 9: forty nine ers and Los Angeles Rams scratchers from the
• 26:02
  Speaker 9: California Lottery. A little play can make your day, peace
• 26:06
  Speaker 9: made responsibil It must be eighteen years or older to
• 26:08
  Speaker 9: purchase plate or claim well.
• 26:09
  Speaker 6: Ralph Lauren has thirty year run or a gap has
• 26:12
  Speaker 6: thirty year run, and Noida could have twenty five year run.
• 26:15
  Speaker 6: But you said that black designers die on the shelves.
• 26:19
  Speaker 6: Then you gave the Macy's analogy. You talk about that.
• 26:22
  Speaker 3: Yeah, black designers that on the shelf. Let me tell
• 26:24
  Speaker 3: you what happens.
• 26:24
  Speaker 2: Right, All the big brands that you name have places
• 26:29
  Speaker 2: where they can do close out, right, y'all, All y'all,
• 26:32
  Speaker 2: a lot of y'all KNOWNE went to them places where
• 26:34
  Speaker 2: they do close out. So why we like when I
• 26:36
  Speaker 2: went underground. When they forced me underground, I had to
• 26:39
  Speaker 2: travel from city to city. So I would leave from
• 26:42
  Speaker 2: Harlem and track, get on the road, hit all the
• 26:44
  Speaker 2: black cities going to Chicago, come back, load up, hit
• 26:47
  Speaker 2: all the black cities going to Atlanta. You know, because
• 26:49
  Speaker 2: I knew all the gangsters in these cities who used
• 26:51
  Speaker 2: to shop with me. And when I get to these cities,
• 26:53
  Speaker 2: I see these fly black stores. I said, damn man,
• 26:56
  Speaker 2: this joint is flying.
• 26:57
  Speaker 3: You gotta come.
• 26:58
  Speaker 2: But the problem with them is is that you know
• 27:01
  Speaker 2: what we want, number one, you have to be able
• 27:04
  Speaker 2: to get it, you know. And in all these stores,
• 27:06
  Speaker 2: none of them had Nike, and black people wanted Nike.
• 27:09
  Speaker 2: That's the first problem, right, And the second problem is
• 27:12
  Speaker 2: if you lucky enough to get goods that we want
• 27:15
  Speaker 2: and you stock your store, you can't kick that back.
• 27:20
  Speaker 2: Macy's in all them big places, they have closed out houses.
• 27:23
  Speaker 2: You know what I'm saying, Macy's gonna never go out
• 27:25
  Speaker 2: of business because you put your stuff in Macy's. It
• 27:27
  Speaker 2: don't sell. Macy's give it back. When you got a
• 27:30
  Speaker 2: black business, you can't give it back. You got to
• 27:32
  Speaker 2: eat it, you.
• 27:34
  Speaker 3: Know what I'm saying.
• 27:34
  Speaker 2: So that's why so many stores close down, you know,
• 27:38
  Speaker 2: and go broke, because we got to eat everything. So
• 27:41
  Speaker 2: if you got one hot item, you know what I'm saying,
• 27:43
  Speaker 2: But you got all these shells full of goods that
• 27:47
  Speaker 2: don't compensate for what your bills are going to be.
• 27:49
  Speaker 7: And so that's why a lot of black businesses went broke.
• 27:54
  Speaker 7: That's important You know, a lot of people don't even
• 27:55
  Speaker 7: realize that, but you you talked about being underground. Obviously
• 27:59
  Speaker 7: if they haven't heard your story, you know, nineteen ninety two,
• 28:03
  Speaker 7: the fat fight happens, Mike Tyson, Soda Mario gets involved.
• 28:08
  Speaker 7: But in twenty seventeen, because you talked about black media,
• 28:10
  Speaker 7: black Twitter, and you talked about the power of social media,
• 28:14
  Speaker 7: they tried it. They tried to copy one of your designs, right,
• 28:18
  Speaker 7: and so it was the Louis Vuitton puffer.
• 28:21
  Speaker 3: And everybody said that.
• 28:22
  Speaker 7: Most of the five people in this room like, yo,
• 28:24
  Speaker 7: that's DAPs design, DAPs design. I want to know what
• 28:27
  Speaker 7: that was like for you, right, seeing people champion you
• 28:29
  Speaker 7: after being on the ground for so long, but seeing
• 28:32
  Speaker 7: a whole other generation champion you, and the impact that
• 28:35
  Speaker 7: it had in you in that moment.
• 28:37
  Speaker 2: You know one thing I love about black people. They
• 28:40
  Speaker 2: anxious to get as black as they can.
• 28:42
  Speaker 3: Man, they're right here. You give black folks a chance
• 28:51
  Speaker 3: to be black.
• 28:52
  Speaker 2: Here they come.
• 28:56
  Speaker 3: Black and then black black you know black?
• 29:00
  Speaker 11: Oh no, no, you ain't. We know where that comes from. No,
• 29:09
  Speaker 11: we know where that come from. Now y'all want this hell,
• 29:12
  Speaker 11: y'all want this problem. We gonna give y'all this problem, right,
• 29:16
  Speaker 11: But let me tell you, let me tell you something
• 29:18
  Speaker 11: strange about this man.
• 29:19
  Speaker 3: Because you know the mother folks.
• 29:21
  Speaker 2: It don't take them long for them to catch on, right,
• 29:23
  Speaker 2: So dig this and I shouldn't be divulging this, but hello, everybody.
• 29:28
  Speaker 3: Anyway, think what they tell me. They were completely honest
• 29:32
  Speaker 3: about this.
• 29:34
  Speaker 2: What you did, Depidan has never happened before and will
• 29:42
  Speaker 2: never happen again. Now what does that mean? They woke
• 29:47
  Speaker 2: up to the move. They say, Okay, Black Twitter did this.
• 29:53
  Speaker 2: How can we contain them? How can we contain because
• 29:59
  Speaker 2: that's what they got to do? Now, how can we
• 30:01
  Speaker 2: contain Black Twitter? Well, now, we got to open up
• 30:06
  Speaker 2: them doors. You understand, we got to open up them doors. Right,
• 30:11
  Speaker 2: so you send me on Breakfast Club.
• 30:13
  Speaker 3: We got them. I thought y'all was gonna be happy.
• 30:16
  Speaker 2: We got them. I'm telling you all, black I said them,
• 30:20
  Speaker 2: we got them. I'm telling y'all, ain't nobody getting it.
• 30:22
  Speaker 2: I'm saying, we got them.
• 30:23
  Speaker 3: They got to let us in.
• 30:24
  Speaker 2: You hear what I'm saying.
• 30:26
  Speaker 3: What I'm saying going back to Africa. What I'm talking about,
• 30:28
  Speaker 3: we got them. They gotta let us in.
• 30:29
  Speaker 2: We got an opportunity to get in the door and
• 30:31
  Speaker 2: learn how this is done, and so we can move
• 30:34
  Speaker 2: our products around the world the same way they move
• 30:36
  Speaker 2: their problems around the world. We got them, and y'all said,
• 30:40
  Speaker 2: uh uh, what.
• 30:41
  Speaker 3: Do you mean? Uh uh No, we ain't buying from
• 30:45
  Speaker 3: them no more. I said, you ain't buying anywhere.
• 30:52
  Speaker 2: You're not buying anyway.
• 30:54
  Speaker 12: We only three to five percent of luxury goods, three
• 30:59
  Speaker 12: to five percent. All talking about goods across the road
• 31:01
  Speaker 12: because we spend billions, but I'm talking about that Badanda's
• 31:04
  Speaker 12: in the luxury goes.
• 31:05
  Speaker 3: We three to five percent, right, But we are ninety five.
• 31:10
  Speaker 2: Percent of the influence the people in the world who
• 31:14
  Speaker 2: want to look like us and dress like us, and.
• 31:17
  Speaker 3: Walk and talk like us. You know.
• 31:19
  Speaker 2: So it's the influences that make the difference.
• 31:23
  Speaker 3: Okay.
• 31:23
  Speaker 2: So I said, let's take advantage of this moment. Let's
• 31:26
  Speaker 2: get inside so we can do this ourselves. But everybody
• 31:30
  Speaker 2: got upset, man, even people coming doun and I said you,
• 31:32
  Speaker 2: I said, you.
• 31:33
  Speaker 3: Ain't buying either. You ain't buying anyway. Man.
• 31:36
  Speaker 2: You Now, come on, I saw you down like that
• 31:37
  Speaker 2: bootleg joint when I was walking back. Come on, I
• 31:41
  Speaker 2: know the real deal. Now, I know how many y'
• 31:46
  Speaker 2: all fainting it? You know so so, but that was
• 31:49
  Speaker 2: the big problem. Everybody in here and all the people
• 31:53
  Speaker 2: of color need to ask themselves.
• 31:56
  Speaker 3: Are we gonna be inside and change things or we're.
• 31:58
  Speaker 2: Gonna walk away every time we can somebody disrespect us.
• 32:03
  Speaker 3: That's what you got to ask youself. And my answer
• 32:05
  Speaker 3: is let's get inside and change this.
• 32:08
  Speaker 5: You know.
• 32:09
  Speaker 3: So that's what that's about.
• 32:10
  Speaker 6: So let me ask you about this because I know
• 32:12
  Speaker 6: that you have an adult collaboration with Gap, congratulations on that.
• 32:17
  Speaker 6: But there's a there's another fashion icon, cultural icon, one
• 32:23
  Speaker 6: of the most important people in our culture, Kanye West,
• 32:27
  Speaker 6: and he's he's in a major fight right now with
• 32:30
  Speaker 6: Gap and Adidas. I know a lot is going on.
• 32:33
  Speaker 6: They said, Adidas offer them a million dollars. They stole
• 32:35
  Speaker 6: his ideas different things that nature. And he's been very
• 32:37
  Speaker 6: vocal for a long time about fashion and about the
• 32:41
  Speaker 6: trials and tribulations of trying to break through in fashion.
• 32:44
  Speaker 6: What are your thoughts on his current situation and what
• 32:46
  Speaker 6: are your thoughts on some of the things that he
• 32:47
  Speaker 6: said before.
• 32:48
  Speaker 2: This is gonna be a two part answer because a
• 32:50
  Speaker 2: lot of people in here don't don't really know about me.
• 32:53
  Speaker 2: They don't know about my revolutionary past, my spiritual journey.
• 32:56
  Speaker 2: They don't mean going to Africa. They don't know about
• 32:58
  Speaker 2: the whole of that there. So I like to take
• 33:00
  Speaker 2: the opportunity to explain. So I'm gonna dress that part,
• 33:03
  Speaker 2: but I'm gonna dress the first part. And the first
• 33:05
  Speaker 2: part is this I am. I did not get into
• 33:09
  Speaker 2: the fashion game to dress bodies right because I used
• 33:14
  Speaker 2: to write for forty Acres and the Mule.
• 33:15
  Speaker 3: You gotta go back and see your molecules. I were
• 33:17
  Speaker 3: reading my book.
• 33:18
  Speaker 2: I did not get into the fashion game to dress bodies.
• 33:21
  Speaker 2: I'm into the fashion game to dress young minds, defind them,
• 33:25
  Speaker 2: to let them know what this is all about. And
• 33:29
  Speaker 2: that was the vehicle that I used. That's the first part.
• 33:31
  Speaker 2: And now in terms of gap, I say, wow, now
• 33:34
  Speaker 2: I'm doing luxury right.
• 33:35
  Speaker 3: And I know all the people.
• 33:37
  Speaker 2: So I take the train every day, the bus and
• 33:40
  Speaker 2: everybody in hallerw know.
• 33:41
  Speaker 3: They see me walking around Halem.
• 33:42
  Speaker 2: I'm standing on the corners and every everybody knows that
• 33:45
  Speaker 2: I'm greeting everybody. And the reason I'm doing that is
• 33:48
  Speaker 2: because I know they can't afford what I'm doing with Gucci, right,
• 33:53
  Speaker 2: because this is all exclusive, is high end, right. But
• 33:56
  Speaker 2: I said, they can afford me. And this is the
• 33:58
  Speaker 2: big part of like being a brand. Being a brand,
• 34:02
  Speaker 2: you got to be a part of the people who
• 34:04
  Speaker 2: made you that brand. So I make sure that I'm engaged, right.
• 34:08
  Speaker 2: So that's the first part. So I said, damn, Now,
• 34:11
  Speaker 2: Gap want to do something with me that gives me
• 34:13
  Speaker 2: the opportunity.
• 34:14
  Speaker 3: For them to wear me, to have a part of me. Right.
• 34:17
  Speaker 2: So I say, I'm gonna do this, but it has
• 34:18
  Speaker 2: another focus. I wanted to destigmatize the hoodie. Every time
• 34:24
  Speaker 2: they see a person of color with a hoodie, they
• 34:26
  Speaker 2: automatically categorize him.
• 34:28
  Speaker 3: Oh, this is a thug. Right.
• 34:30
  Speaker 2: So I said, Okay, I'm gonna do this hoodie thing,
• 34:33
  Speaker 2: but I'm gonna do it in a way it never
• 34:34
  Speaker 2: been done before. So when you see that, but Dan
• 34:36
  Speaker 2: put on the hoodie, I throw a silk scarf around
• 34:39
  Speaker 2: my neck. Way, I asked God, So I raised the bar.
• 34:42
  Speaker 2: Do you understand so that we can have up and down.
• 34:45
  Speaker 2: They can't stigmatize us. That's part one and part two.
• 34:48
  Speaker 2: I say, this give me an opportunity, so everybody can
• 34:51
  Speaker 2: wear right now, what the difference between my journey and
• 34:55
  Speaker 2: kanye journey. My journey is from zero to trying to
• 34:59
  Speaker 2: be hero.
• 35:00
  Speaker 3: But Kanye was already a hero.
• 35:03
  Speaker 2: He already had power. And when you have power, you know,
• 35:05
  Speaker 2: the more power you you have the biggest sacrifice that
• 35:12
  Speaker 2: you could make in using that power. Now, I think
• 35:17
  Speaker 2: Kanye was on the he was on the right path
• 35:19
  Speaker 2: to doing everything you do here.
• 35:21
  Speaker 3: He had the following, you know, he had he.
• 35:26
  Speaker 2: Knows style and everything, but the missing element was like,
• 35:32
  Speaker 2: I need a team. I need somebody inside who understands
• 35:36
  Speaker 2: how to scrow. You know, it's just him against them.
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  Speaker 2: You know, I think Kanye problem is we weren't at
• 36:25
  Speaker 2: the stage where we where he had that inside support
• 36:28
  Speaker 2: that he needed, you know, to follow through on the
• 36:32
  Speaker 2: things he did.
• 36:33
  Speaker 3: So you know, he lost a lot of money, you know,
• 36:35
  Speaker 3: And you gotta give Kanye credit because if.
• 36:38
  Speaker 2: I said the things he was saying now, you know,
• 36:41
  Speaker 2: they'd be trying to destroy me.
• 36:44
  Speaker 3: Yeah.
• 36:45
  Speaker 7: So you talked about being on the inside, and I
• 36:47
  Speaker 7: know part of that twenty seventeen collaboration with Gucci, they
• 36:52
  Speaker 7: made you a board member of the Change Makers Program
• 36:54
  Speaker 7: for North America. Can you talk about what that is
• 36:57
  Speaker 7: and some of the things that you were responsible for
• 36:59
  Speaker 7: and at in that role.
• 37:01
  Speaker 3: Yeah, and good.
• 37:02
  Speaker 2: I'm glad you asked me not because this is a
• 37:04
  Speaker 2: follow up to the earlier question. Right, what Gucci did
• 37:08
  Speaker 2: with the change Makers Program need to be like, people
• 37:12
  Speaker 2: need to applaud it.
• 37:14
  Speaker 3: I'm gonna tell you why.
• 37:15
  Speaker 2: Because they saw that they needed to put money into programs,
• 37:21
  Speaker 2: they needed to open doors, and they went across the
• 37:23
  Speaker 2: board and did that.
• 37:24
  Speaker 3: They had to do that, right.
• 37:26
  Speaker 2: And they followed through on that, and they continue to
• 37:29
  Speaker 2: follow through right. But in addition to that, it wasn't
• 37:34
  Speaker 2: like that was charity.
• 37:37
  Speaker 3: You know.
• 37:38
  Speaker 2: We are the influencers, so we had that coming, you know,
• 37:41
  Speaker 2: and they followed suiting that.
• 37:43
  Speaker 3: But the problem that I.
• 37:45
  Speaker 2: Had, what our reaction to what was going on, is
• 37:48
  Speaker 2: that we put that pressure on Gucci, and Gucci answered
• 37:52
  Speaker 2: and we kept quiet with all the other brands. If
• 37:54
  Speaker 2: we took that same energy that we put on Gucci
• 37:58
  Speaker 2: and apply to all them other brands, think of all
• 38:00
  Speaker 2: of us as gonna with all the spaces that we
• 38:03
  Speaker 2: would be occupying now, you know, and that and that's
• 38:07
  Speaker 2: the problem. So we have to make sure we continue
• 38:10
  Speaker 2: to do that. But what is our strength, already told
• 38:13
  Speaker 2: you in the luxury game, the strength lies in the
• 38:16
  Speaker 2: influence the influencers that we have, our musicians and our
• 38:20
  Speaker 2: artists on that level, right they answer to us, you know,
• 38:24
  Speaker 2: and and the brand's answer to them. So when we
• 38:28
  Speaker 2: put pressure, when we put pressure on the influencers, you know,
• 38:35
  Speaker 2: they can open doors for us. It's the influencers that
• 38:38
  Speaker 2: can open the doors for us, you know. So the
• 38:40
  Speaker 2: bottom line is it's always black Twitter. You know, it's
• 38:44
  Speaker 2: always black twittered. The same way that black Twitter told
• 38:49
  Speaker 2: say don't wear Gucci or don't wear this, or don't
• 38:51
  Speaker 2: wear anything. You know, we could have took that same
• 38:54
  Speaker 2: energy and say don't wear them brands that it's not
• 38:56
  Speaker 2: gonna open up doors, don't wear the wear them brands.
• 38:59
  Speaker 2: That's not gonna bring money into our community. And that's
• 39:02
  Speaker 2: the problem. You know, the influencers have the power to
• 39:04
  Speaker 2: do that. So here's the bottom line. This is how
• 39:06
  Speaker 2: it works. The influencers get their energy from us and
• 39:12
  Speaker 2: their celebrity from us, right, they take that celebrity and
• 39:16
  Speaker 2: make money by marketing that celebrity to brands. So that's
• 39:22
  Speaker 2: the We need to manipulate that in a way that
• 39:26
  Speaker 2: the ones who put them in them positions that they
• 39:28
  Speaker 2: can be spokespeople and make sure that that's what's happening.
• 39:32
  Speaker 5: So let me ask you this.
• 39:34
  Speaker 6: You talked about forty acres and a mule when you
• 39:37
  Speaker 6: wrote for that and that was in nineteen sixty eight
• 39:40
  Speaker 6: when you wrote an article about the gentrification of Harlem. Yeah,
• 39:44
  Speaker 6: and that was a report based on nineteen sixty four
• 39:47
  Speaker 6: Urban renewl So talk about that because that was way
• 39:50
  Speaker 6: before it happened.
• 39:51
  Speaker 5: But we see that now sixty years later.
• 39:53
  Speaker 3: Yeah, let me tell you what happened.
• 39:55
  Speaker 2: Right in nineteen sixty four, Constant Baker Montley, I was
• 39:59
  Speaker 2: like a teenager. In nineteen sixty four, Constant Baker Motley
• 40:02
  Speaker 2: did a study RB and I studied. Was entitled Urban
• 40:07
  Speaker 2: Renewal Negro Removal certain Way. Constant Baker Motley, she did
• 40:11
  Speaker 2: that thirty nineteen sixty four. I said, Wow, if I
• 40:14
  Speaker 2: ever get me some money, man, I'm gonna make sure
• 40:16
  Speaker 2: I get me a house in Holland. So nineteen sixty eight,
• 40:18
  Speaker 2: when I'm turning my luck myself around, I did a
• 40:21
  Speaker 2: study myself, you know. And then when you look at
• 40:24
  Speaker 2: my in my book, and then the newspaper that was
• 40:28
  Speaker 2: radical newspaper was boomed. I put on the front cover
• 40:30
  Speaker 2: of the newspaper a prototype of what the state building
• 40:34
  Speaker 2: that you see on twenty fifth Street is going to
• 40:36
  Speaker 2: look like. And I made it look like a trojan horse,
• 40:40
  Speaker 2: you know, to let people know that gentrification was coming.
• 40:43
  Speaker 2: And the first thing I did when I got me
• 40:46
  Speaker 2: some money, and for fifty thousand dollars, I got a
• 40:48
  Speaker 2: building that's worth four million dollars, now, you know. But
• 40:53
  Speaker 2: when I bought it, I begged people to state. But
• 40:55
  Speaker 2: what happened to me, I'm the sayer, I'm the first.
• 40:57
  Speaker 2: I'm the first generation of the great migration, came from
• 41:00
  Speaker 2: the South, so and into hallm. So what that means
• 41:08
  Speaker 2: was that my parents before me didn't have none of
• 41:11
  Speaker 2: the generation that came before me because they migrated from
• 41:13
  Speaker 2: the South.
• 41:14
  Speaker 3: They didn't have that kind of money.
• 41:15
  Speaker 2: In fact, my generation, the first migration, the generation that
• 41:18
  Speaker 2: came from the South, is the first generation of people
• 41:20
  Speaker 2: of color to completely accross the board exceed the.
• 41:24
  Speaker 3: Accomplishments of those who came before them. Right, So that
• 41:28
  Speaker 3: was there.
• 41:29
  Speaker 2: But then I had, you know, I was into the
• 41:30
  Speaker 2: gangs the world, and all the gangs had money, and
• 41:33
  Speaker 2: they was the only ones who had money. Now, by
• 41:35
  Speaker 2: the time I'm a teenager, when I was growing up,
• 41:37
  Speaker 2: we had middle class and upper class blacks living in Harlem.
• 41:41
  Speaker 2: By the time the sixties got there came across, they
• 41:44
  Speaker 2: had already moved out because stech, the walls of segregation
• 41:50
  Speaker 2: came by, so they started moving in them communities outside
• 41:54
  Speaker 2: of hollm and redlining came down, came down the loose
• 41:58
  Speaker 2: so they could get money from the bank. So we
• 42:00
  Speaker 2: lost the complete middle and upper class. So nothing the
• 42:04
  Speaker 2: gangsters and the poor people was there. So my gangster friends,
• 42:07
  Speaker 2: I said, by here, by this property, you know the
• 42:10
  Speaker 2: rappers who that just got getting one. They said, man
• 42:12
  Speaker 2: by man, please buy property in hollow and they didn't
• 42:15
  Speaker 2: listen right, And then the gangster guy said, man, you
• 42:18
  Speaker 2: just want us to be here because you're here.
• 42:19
  Speaker 3: They had no vision on where we needed to be.
• 42:22
  Speaker 2: And then all the middle class. Now just do a
• 42:25
  Speaker 2: survey all the middle class blacks that left Harlem, and
• 42:28
  Speaker 2: the upper class they moved in the suburbs. Now they
• 42:31
  Speaker 2: ghettos over there. You got to change the mind of
• 42:33
  Speaker 2: the people. You can't change the locationally think they're gonna be.
• 42:36
  Speaker 3: Better, even from a fashion standpoint.
• 42:40
  Speaker 7: And I read this when you were designing to clothes
• 42:43
  Speaker 7: right after the store opens in nineteen eighty two. The
• 42:46
  Speaker 7: middle class wasn't really rocking with you. They didn't understand
• 42:48
  Speaker 7: the vision.
• 42:49
  Speaker 2: Let me you talk about that, man, how do I
• 42:51
  Speaker 2: feel like? Bet Let me tell you something from here.
• 42:55
  Speaker 2: You got to come to the mind. I tell you should.
• 42:57
  Speaker 2: That speaker over there, I got my floor clubed with
• 43:00
  Speaker 2: magazines covered with magazines, all international magazines, six or seven
• 43:08
  Speaker 2: of them with me on the front cover. I did
• 43:10
  Speaker 2: not get recognized by black people until two years ago,
• 43:14
  Speaker 2: after thirty nine years in the business. Ebony recognized me,
• 43:19
  Speaker 2: you know what I'm saying. And me and my friend
• 43:21
  Speaker 2: when we use kids, Man, we used to take jet
• 43:23
  Speaker 2: and just spend the pages looking at these pretty black
• 43:26
  Speaker 2: folks in and spending the pages.
• 43:27
  Speaker 3: Man.
• 43:28
  Speaker 2: But not until two years ago did I get recognized.
• 43:30
  Speaker 2: But you see all these magazines, you know, because what
• 43:33
  Speaker 2: they realized. You know, a lot of African Americans, you see,
• 43:36
  Speaker 2: they went to Europe to be discovered because one thing
• 43:39
  Speaker 2: about the mother folks. Man, they ain't gonna deny talent.
• 43:42
  Speaker 2: They're gonna look at it and figure out how they
• 43:45
  Speaker 2: exploit it. You know, So we gotta make it our
• 43:49
  Speaker 2: businesses look at things and see, you know what is this?
• 43:54
  Speaker 3: They had to say it.
• 43:56
  Speaker 2: You know, I was, I've been in European the first
• 43:57
  Speaker 2: European magazine. I was in nineteen eighty seven. I'm talking
• 44:00
  Speaker 2: now two years ago. This is the first time a
• 44:03
  Speaker 2: black publication now on my floor now the only black publication,
• 44:06
  Speaker 2: genuinely black publication that I'm on the front cover is
• 44:09
  Speaker 2: Don Devas against the move, but that's sometime I'm happy
• 44:13
  Speaker 2: with that, you.
• 44:13
  Speaker 3: Know, and that's why this is so important.
• 44:14
  Speaker 7: That's why and I'm happy that everybody is selimentary science
• 44:18
  Speaker 7: right now because it's so important that we have nights
• 44:20
  Speaker 7: like this. When we thought of somebody who we need
• 44:22
  Speaker 7: to sit down and honor, it was you, right, just
• 44:25
  Speaker 7: because of the history and what you mean to us.
• 44:27
  Speaker 7: So this person, we wanted to give you a flowers.
• 44:29
  Speaker 7: So that's why we hit the nice So thank you personally.
• 44:32
  Speaker 3: Thank you.
• 44:36
  Speaker 6: Another question, so pressing piece to the late great Virgil,
• 44:41
  Speaker 6: who do you think should replace Virgil Hall Louis vaton Earn?
• 44:46
  Speaker 3: Is what's going on as your gear a fall.
• 44:48
  Speaker 7: You need the right people on your team that help
• 44:50
  Speaker 7: your small business fire on all cylinders. LinkedIn jobs is
• 44:53
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• 44:55
  Speaker 7: want to talk to, faster and for free. When we're
• 44:58
  Speaker 7: looking for a sound engineer, a graphic designer, or an editor,
• 45:01
  Speaker 7: LinkedIn jobs is the first place we go. Create a
• 45:04
  Speaker 7: free job post and minutes on LinkedIn jobs to reach
• 45:07
  Speaker 7: your network and beyond to the world's largest professional network
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  Speaker 7: of over eight hundred and ten million people. Then add
• 45:14
  Speaker 7: your job in the purple hiring hashtag frame on your
• 45:16
  Speaker 7: LinkedIn profile to spread the word that you're hiring, so
• 45:19
  Speaker 7: your network can help you find the.
• 45:20
  Speaker 3: Right people to hire.
• 45:22
  Speaker 7: Simple tools like screening questions make it easy to focus
• 45:24
  Speaker 7: on candidates with just the right skills and experience, so
• 45:27
  Speaker 7: you can quickly prioritize who you like to interview and hire.
• 45:31
  Speaker 7: It's why small businesses rate LinkedIn jobs number one, and
• 45:34
  Speaker 7: delivering quality hires versus leading competitors. LinkedIn Jobs helps you
• 45:38
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• 45:41
  Speaker 7: you know every week, nearly forty million job seekers visit
• 45:44
  Speaker 7: LinkedIn Post your job for free at LinkedIn dot com
• 45:47
  Speaker 7: slash eyl that's LinkedIn dot com slash eyl to post
• 45:52
  Speaker 7: your job for free.
• 45:53
  Speaker 3: Terms and conditions apply. Who I think first list?
• 45:57
  Speaker 2: Could we talk a minute about the burgeah for sure?
• 45:59
  Speaker 2: Talking about vers Okay, let's talk about what Dapadam means
• 46:03
  Speaker 2: and what virgin means.
• 46:05
  Speaker 3: Virgil Man. We needed Virgil so bad man.
• 46:08
  Speaker 2: We needed virgial man. His death really hurt us. And
• 46:12
  Speaker 2: I'm gonna have a big conversation about that later on.
• 46:14
  Speaker 2: Things I don't want to reveal about that Virgil in myself,
• 46:17
  Speaker 2: was gonna do.
• 46:18
  Speaker 3: But here's what you need to see, right, I came
• 46:22
  Speaker 3: up a black staircase.
• 46:25
  Speaker 2: Everything that I've been able to accomplish is because I
• 46:29
  Speaker 2: came up a black staircase.
• 46:31
  Speaker 3: I served black people.
• 46:32
  Speaker 2: I served them in a black community, and I never
• 46:35
  Speaker 2: had any contact with the fashion industry with the structure
• 46:39
  Speaker 2: of it.
• 46:40
  Speaker 3: None at all.
• 46:40
  Speaker 2: So I did everything was well. What Virgil did was
• 46:43
  Speaker 2: amazing as well. Virgil came up a white staircase. Not
• 46:47
  Speaker 2: only was it amazing, it was dangerous. Let me tell
• 46:50
  Speaker 2: you why I was dangerous. Everybody here who's into fashion
• 46:53
  Speaker 2: is familiar with Andre Leon TALLEYR.
• 46:56
  Speaker 3: Peace. You don't get no high than that.
• 46:59
  Speaker 2: You feel what I'm saying, And you see how miserable
• 47:02
  Speaker 2: they made him in the inn. So you can go
• 47:05
  Speaker 2: up a white staircase and get kicked down, you know.
• 47:08
  Speaker 2: So I went up a black staircase and some other
• 47:10
  Speaker 2: folks kicked me down, and they say, we got you,
• 47:13
  Speaker 2: and I went back up the black stacker. So you
• 47:15
  Speaker 2: can go up and down the black staircase because they
• 47:17
  Speaker 2: gonna be there for you, you know what I'm saying.
• 47:20
  Speaker 3: So what Virgil did was phenomenal. But let's go further.
• 47:27
  Speaker 3: Black Twitter did it was phenomena, all.
• 47:29
  Speaker 2: Right, So Black Twitter forced Gucci to come see me,
• 47:34
  Speaker 2: and it was a good business deal for them, that's
• 47:37
  Speaker 2: primarily while they did it right. So when Gucci did that,
• 47:43
  Speaker 2: who is their number one arrival, Louis vuittone, right, they
• 47:49
  Speaker 2: had to come get Virgil wasn't doing luxury, you know,
• 47:53
  Speaker 2: they had to come get Virgil. So not only are
• 47:56
  Speaker 2: you all responsible for me, you're responsible for Virgil too,
• 48:00
  Speaker 2: because they had the answer. You know what I'm saying,
• 48:02
  Speaker 2: How do you know that it was so obvious? It's
• 48:05
  Speaker 2: because a collection wasn't even ready. Anybody in fashion know,
• 48:10
  Speaker 2: you do not introduce somebody into a collection is ready.
• 48:14
  Speaker 2: Everybody in fashion knows that. But that's what y'all did,
• 48:17
  Speaker 2: you know, So if we put everything, we put all
• 48:19
  Speaker 2: that energy together and understand and he was he's been
• 48:22
  Speaker 2: deserving of where he is, and he's phenomenal. You know,
• 48:26
  Speaker 2: he's been phenomenal. You know, I mean he was God
• 48:28
  Speaker 2: bless her brother, but he was a phenomenal.
• 48:31
  Speaker 5: Make some noise with dapper day ladies and gentlemen.
• 48:38
  Speaker 4: My graduates from my school being false backdrop drop or
• 48:44
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