Latest / The Hidden History of Bengal: Kingdoms, Empires, and Revolution — Fexingo History / The Bandel Church: Bengal's Portuguese Legacy
Transcript
- Lucas: Luna, we've talked a lot about the Portuguese in Bengal — their arrival, their trading posts, the violence with the Mughals. But there's one physical reminder that still stands today, and it's a bit of a surprise when you find it. Luna: What is it? Lucas: The Bandel Church, up near Hooghly. It's one of the oldest Christian churches in Bengal, built originally in 1599 by Augustinian friars. And it has a story that ties together Mughal emperors, pirates, and even a mission to Tibet. Luna: Wait — a mission to Tibet from a church in Bengal? Lucas: Exactly. But let me start from the beginning. The Portuguese first settled in Hooghly around 1579, during Akbar's reign. They were granted permission to trade and build a settlement. The Augustinians arrived in 1599 and built a church dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary. That's the core of what we now call Bandel Church. Luna: So it was under Akbar's watch. That fits with his policy of religious tolerance, doesn't it? Lucas: It does. And the Portuguese were useful allies — they provided naval support and controlled the sea routes. But the relationship soured under Shah Jahan. In 1632, he sent his general Qasim Khan to attack Hooghly. The Portuguese had been raiding Mughal shipping, capturing slaves, and generally acting like they owned the place. Shah Jahan had had enough. Lucas: The siege of Hooghly lasted three months. The Portuguese put up a fierce defense — they had cannons and a small fleet. But the Mughals overwhelmed them. The church was damaged, the Portuguese were either killed or captured and taken to Agra as prisoners. Shah Jahan ordered the church destroyed. Luna: But it's still standing today. So what happened? Lucas: After the siege, the church lay in ruins for about a decade. Then, in the 1640s, the Portuguese managed to negotiate a return. They rebuilt the church, and it's that structure that survives today — though it's been modified over the centuries. One of the most striking features is a large ship's anchor hanging from a chain in the courtyard. Luna: An anchor? Why? Lucas: Legend says that during the 1632 siege, a Portuguese ship was trying to escape up the Hooghly river, but the Mughals fired on it. The captain prayed to Our Lady of the Rosary, and the ship miraculously escaped. The anchor was kept as a votive offering. It's still there, a symbol of the Portuguese maritime connection. Luna: That's incredible. So the church is a kind of museum of that whole era. Lucas: It really is. And it's not just about the Portuguese staying put. From this very church, a Jesuit missionary named Father João Cabral set out in 1626 on an overland journey to Tibet. He was one of the first Europeans to reach the Tibetan capital, Lhasa. He used Bandel as a base, traveling through Bhutan and Sikkim. Luna: I had no idea. So Bandel was a launching point for exploring the Himalayas? Lucas: Yes. Cabral and his companion, Father Estêvão Cacella, spent two years in Tibet. They even established a mission there, though it didn't last long. Their reports back to Europe provided some of the earliest detailed descriptions of Tibet. And all of it started from this small church on the Hooghly. Luna: That really puts Bandel in a different light. It wasn't just a trading post; it was a node in a global network. Lucas: Exactly. And that network extended beyond trade — it included religion, exploration, and even piracy. The Portuguese in Bengal were a mixed bunch. Some were honest merchants, but many were pirates who raided the Sundarbans and the Arakan coast. They were known as 'firangis', a term that carried a lot of fear. Lucas: This is actually a good moment to mention something. If today's episode has given you a new perspective on Bengal's history, and you'd like to help us keep these conversations ad-free, you can support the show at buy me a coffee dot com slash fexingo. It's a small way to say this kind of deep dive matters. Luna: Yeah, I think listeners who enjoy these threads will want to keep them coming. It's what makes this show different. Lucas: So back to Bandel. After the Portuguese returned, the church became a center for the local Catholic community. Over the centuries, it survived wars, famines, and even the 1897 earthquake. Today, it's a protected monument and still an active place of worship. Inside, you can see a statue of Our Lady of the Rosary that was reportedly brought from Goa in the 16th century. Luna: Did the Mughals ever try to destroy it again? Lucas: Not after the 1632 attack. By the mid-17th century, the Portuguese were in decline, and the Mughals had more pressing concerns. The church stood as a quiet reminder of a time when the Hooghly river was a highway for global commerce. There's even a story that the church's bell was taken as a trophy by the Marathas during their raids in the 1740s, but later returned. Luna: It's amazing how much history is packed into one building. Lucas: Absolutely. And it's not just the church itself. The surrounding town of Bandel was a bustling Portuguese enclave. They had their own mint, their own laws, and even a small fort. The ruins of that fort are still visible near the riverbank. Luna: Is there any connection to the other Portuguese settlement we talked about in episode 53 — the one at Hooghly? Lucas: Yes, Bandel and Hooghly are essentially the same area. Hooghly was the port town, and Bandel was the church and settlement a little upstream. They're often used interchangeably. The name 'Bandel' actually comes from the Portuguese word 'bandeira', meaning flag or banner — possibly referring to a flag staff the Portuguese erected. Lucas: But the church's story also reflects the darker side of Portuguese presence. The slave trade was rampant. The Portuguese captured people from the Sundarbans and the Arakan coast and sold them in Goa and elsewhere. This created a cycle of violence that the Mughals eventually had to address. Luna: So the church is a symbol of both the good and the bad of that era. Lucas: Exactly. And that complexity is what makes it such a powerful historical site. Today, it's a popular tourist destination, but also a place of pilgrimage for Christians in Bengal. Every year, there's a feast in November that draws thousands. Luna: I'd love to visit it someday. Lucas: If you do, you'll see a plaque inside commemorating the 400th anniversary in 1999. And you'll see the anchor, the old Portuguese tombstones, and the beautiful altar. It's a living link to a time when Bengal was at the crossroads of empires. Lucas: And that's really the heart of it. The Bandel Church isn't just a relic; it's a place where you can feel the layers of history — the Portuguese, the Mughals, the British later on. It survived because it adapted, and it still holds stories that most people don't know. Luna: Like the Tibet mission. That's the kind of detail that makes history feel alive. Lucas: Exactly. So next time you're in West Bengal, take a detour to Bandel. Stand by the river, look at the church, and think about the generations of people who passed through — traders, pirates, missionaries, emperors. It's all there.