Latest / Phil and H Travel - Is It Worth It? Top Travel Destinations Explored! / Bilbao Cheat Sheet: 3 Secrets for a Perfect Trip
Transcript
- 0:00All right, let's talk Bilbao. 3 days.
- 0:02That seems to be the magic number everyone aims for, right?
- 0:05A quick city break in northern Spain.
- 0:07Exactly. But we need to start this deep
- 0:09dive with a a dose of reality. Oh, what's the reality check?
- 0:16The brutal, honest truth is that most people who book this trip,
- 0:20they're booking it for completely the wrong reason.
- 0:23OK, I'm. Intrigued.
- 0:23What's the wrong reason? They saw a picture.
- 0:26A picture of a building. You know the one?
- 0:29The shiny metallic building that looks like a street ship or a
- 0:31giant silver fish that just, I don't know, crashed on a
- 0:35riverbank. The Guggenheim.
- 0:36The Guggenheim. They're going only for Frank
- 0:38Gehry's museum. And look, that building is
- 0:41magnificent. It really is.
- 0:43But if that's your only reason for going, you're setting
- 0:45yourself up for disappointment. You've completely missed the
- 0:48real story of the city. But hold on, if it's that
- 0:50magnificent, why is chasing at a wrist?
- 0:52What are people actually missing if they just focus on the
- 0:55titanium and the spectacle? They miss the heart, they miss
- 0:58the context. Bilbao isn't San Sebastian.
- 1:01It's definitely not Barcelona. If you just chase the
- 1:04Guggenheim, you're basically treating the city like a museum
- 1:07parking lot, right? And you're failing to see what
- 1:09it really is, which is a a masterpiece of urban planning.
- 1:14This is a city that literally dragged itself up from rust and
- 1:17industrial collapse to become a European capital of design and
- 1:20culture. There's this persistent, Moody
- 1:23Basque grit under everything and you have to appreciate that to
- 1:27get Bilbao. So our mission today is to get
- 1:29you beyond that shiny metal building idea.
- 1:32We've gone through the whole blueprint for a perfect, you
- 1:34know, an efficient and insight driven 72 hours.
- 1:37There we are going to be, your guides to the real Bilbao.
- 1:40And it is real, it's functional, it's incredibly efficient, and
- 1:43it has this sort of reserved, quiet pride that just feels
- 1:48different from the rest of Spain.
- 1:49And we have to. Start with the weather.
- 1:50We need to manage expectations right up front.
- 1:52Oh, absolutely. There's a reason they call it
- 1:54green Spain. It's it's often Gray.
- 1:56It rains a. Lot if.
- 1:58You're looking for a tan if you want that guaranteed
- 2:00Mediterranean sun. Stop listening now.
- 2:03Honestly, stop listening. Book a flight to Malaga or
- 2:06Alicante. This is damp Atlantic territory.
- 2:10The whole vibe is cozy. It's intimate and yeah, it's
- 2:13often Moody. But, and this is a big but, if
- 2:17you care about culture, if you want world class architecture
- 2:20and design, if safety is a huge priority, and if you just love
- 2:24the atmosphere of a truly revitalized working city, then
- 2:29this is the blueprint for you. We've crunched all the numbers
- 2:31from the, you know, the hostile rat backpacker to the high end
- 2:35lottery traveler and all the essential logistical moves you
- 2:38have to make so you don't get ripped off or soaked.
- 2:42We have the logistics, the budget, and we also have three
- 2:44really critical insights, 3 contrarian surprises that go
- 2:48against everything you'd read in a normal travel.
- 2:50Guide and these are the things that make your trip.
- 2:51OK, let's hear them surprise #1. The best food, and I mean the
- 2:55most authentic, most delicious food experiences in Bilbao.
- 2:58You will not find them in a formal sit down restaurant with
- 3:01white tablecloths. Where do you find them?
- 3:03Standing up elbow to elbow with locals probably leaning over a
- 3:07wet bar counter. That physical act of standing
- 3:11and eating is part of the ritual.
- 3:13I love that. OK, surprise #2.
- 3:15It's related to the food, the wine you think you want, that
- 3:18big, heavy, oaky red Rioja. It's great, but it is not the
- 3:23wine you should be drinking when you're doing the local pintos
- 3:26crawl. So there's a better pairing.
- 3:27There is a local, crisp, slightly bubbly alternative that
- 3:32is absolutely non negotiable for the full Basque experience.
- 3:35And the final one, surprise #3. The single best view of the
- 3:39city, the one that tells the whole story.
- 3:41The river, the Guggenheim, the mountains behind it.
- 3:44It's not from the city center at all.
- 3:45You have to leave and it'll cost you about €3.
- 3:48All right, that's the setup. Let's get into it, because
- 3:50Bilbao's comeback story is genuinely one of the most
- 3:53fascinating architectural and economic tales of the last
- 3:56century. It.
- 3:57Really is. OK, let's unpack that
- 3:59transformation. It's the context that gives the
- 4:02city its whole flavor. I mean, for the last decade
- 4:05Bilbao has been seen as the cool alternative to Barcelona, but
- 4:09there's a real economic reason for its success.
- 4:11It even has an official. Name it does.
- 4:13It's called the Bilbao Effect. And that's not some, you know,
- 4:15marketing slogan. It's a real term.
- 4:17It's taught in urban planning and economics courses in
- 4:20universities all over the world. So what does it actually mean?
- 4:23It describes the phenomenon where a city uses 1 landmark, a
- 4:27signature piece of architecture, in this case the Guggenheim, to
- 4:31pivot its entire economy to go from a dying industrial center
- 4:35to a major cultural and tourist hub.
- 4:38And in the process, it generates just massive global attention,
- 4:42economic activity, and this is the important part, renewed
- 4:46pride for the people who live. There, we can't overstate the
- 4:48crisis they were in before this. Before Gary's building, Bilbao
- 4:51was synonymous with shipyards, steel mills, just massive
- 4:55declining heavy industry. And the river, the Nervian
- 4:58River, which is so central now. It was an open sewer.
- 5:01I mean, by all accounts it was brown, toxic, dead.
- 5:04The city was facing a terminal decline.
- 5:07We're talking huge unemployment, urban decay, a real loss of
- 5:11hope. So this wasn't just a vanity
- 5:13project, it was an act of desperation almost.
- 5:16It was a massive gamble. The initial investment was
- 5:19staggering. Estimates put it at nearly $400
- 5:21million from the regional and city governments for the whole
- 5:24revitalization project. And the museum itself.
- 5:27About 100 million of that went just to acquiring and building
- 5:30the Guggenheim. This was a huge calculated bet
- 5:34that architecture could be an economic engine.
- 5:36And it paid off. I mean, it paid off
- 5:38exponentially. The museum opened in 97 and
- 5:41within just three years it was estimated to have generated over
- 5:44half a billion dollars in economic activity.
- 5:46That is just incredible to think that it was an industrial
- 5:50powerhouse that basically had to declare bankruptcy on its own
- 5:53past and invent a new future. And understanding that history
- 5:56is so critical because it shapes the culture you feel today.
- 6:00This isn't just Spain. This is the.
- 6:02Great, and that translates into a social vibe you need to be
- 6:05ready for. You can't just show up expecting
- 6:07the same relaxed, loud, extroverted energy you might
- 6:11find in Andalusia. Not at all.
- 6:13Authenticity here is built on a really deep historical pride,
- 6:18intense social bonds and a sense of, you know, efficient self
- 6:22determination. The Basque people are famously
- 6:26reserved, principled and incredibly efficient.
- 6:29How does that actually feel for a traveler on day one?
- 6:32Is it something you really notice?
- 6:34You do. It's in the social energy.
- 6:35You're not going to see flamboyant public arguments or,
- 6:39you know, big emotional displays like you might in the South.
- 6:42The service in bars and restaurants is highly
- 6:44professional. It's efficient and maybe you'll
- 6:46guard it at 1st until you break the ice.
- 6:48So it's a culture that values getting the job done right?
- 6:51On time and without a lot of fuss.
- 6:53They're immensely friendly, but it's a quieter, less theatrical
- 6:56kind of friendliness. And that efficiency extends to
- 6:58your culinary expectations. The number one cultural warning?
- 7:02Do not come here looking for Paya.
- 7:04Oh, please don't. The famous rice dish we all
- 7:07associate with Spain is from Valencia.
- 7:09It's a Mediterranean dish. It is not native to the Basque
- 7:12Country at all. So if you see a sign in the Old
- 7:14Town that says authentic Paya. That is your giant flashing red
- 7:18light. That is the definitive signal
- 7:21that you are walking into a cynical tourist trap aimed at
- 7:24people who haven't done their homework.
- 7:26The local diet is about the sea, the land, incredible produce,
- 7:31not rice from the other side of the country.
- 7:33The local pride also shows up in the language, which is maybe the
- 7:37most obvious visual cue that you're somewhere distinct.
- 7:39Definitely. You immediately see Uskara, the
- 7:42Basque language, on all the signs, usually right next to the
- 7:45Spanish. And Uskara is it's a total
- 7:48linguistic anomaly, right? It's a language isolate.
- 7:50It has no known connection to Spanish, French, or any other
- 7:54language family in the world. Visually, you'll see a lot of XS
- 7:57and KS in the words Kayo for hello.
- 8:00Hi, Katrick. Oscar for Thank you, Jacoli for
- 8:02the wine we're going to talk about.
- 8:04And while pretty much everyone is bilingual in Spanish and
- 8:07English is fine in the tourist areas, learning those two Basque
- 8:10phrases. It shows an immediate level of
- 8:12respect that locals really appreciate.
- 8:15Also try to learn the city's name.
- 8:17It's not Bilbobobo. The Spanish pronunciation is
- 8:20closer to bill. BHO stress on the middle
- 8:24syllable. It's a small thing, but it
- 8:26helps. So you have this reserved,
- 8:28efficient culture and this often overcast climate.
- 8:32This brings us to the social media fantasy versus the
- 8:34reality. Yes, we have to correct the
- 8:37image. Social media is full of sunny
- 8:39terraces, people sipping white wine by the river.
- 8:42And look, the sun does come out, but that is not the daily norm.
- 8:45Time for a reality check. Bilbao is deep in an industrial
- 8:49valley. You're surrounded by these
- 8:50stunning, intensely Green Mountains, which are green
- 8:53because of all the rain, but the dominant vibe is often overcast,
- 8:57damp and yeah, sometimes a little gloomy.
- 8:59But the. Gloom is the mood.
- 9:01The gloom is the mood. It's not a bad thing.
- 9:03It's what defines the social rituals.
- 9:04It creates this cozy indoor atmosphere that's perfect for
- 9:07Texedio, the local tradition of hopping from one small bar to
- 9:10the next, staying inside where it's warm, clustered together.
- 9:13So it's artsy but still has that working class heart.
- 9:17Exactly. It doesn't feel manicured and
- 9:19perfect like San Sebastian. Sense of ash is beautiful, but
- 9:23it's almost too perfect. Like a wealthy ants vacation
- 9:26home. Bilbao feels lived in.
- 9:28It's functional. It's a tough port city that got
- 9:31a master's degree in design without losing its edge.
- 9:33And that dictates the pace of your trip.
- 9:36A three day trip here is fast. It's physical.
- 9:39You are not lounging on a beach, you will be walking constantly.
- 9:42You'll be navigating hills and because of the Pintos culture,
- 9:45you'll be eating and socializing while standing up.
- 9:48It takes energy. So if you're coming for a deep
- 9:51dive into urban rebirth design and amazing food, you're in the
- 9:55right place. Just pack a good raincoat.
- 9:57A very good raincoat. OK, let's get you on the ground.
- 9:59You've just landed at Bilbao Airport Bio and your very first
- 10:04impression is probably going to be the architecture of the
- 10:06terminal itself. It's a piece of art.
- 10:08It was designed by the controversial Spanish architect
- 10:11Santiago Calatrava. It's nickname is La Paloma the
- 10:15Dove because of its swooping wing like shape.
- 10:18So it immediately signals that this is a city that cares about
- 10:20design. Absolutely, it's a world class
- 10:22gateway, but like a lot of highly aesthetic designs, it's
- 10:26beauty hides a small but significant logistical flaw,
- 10:30especially given the slime that we just talked about.
- 10:32What's the flaw that catches people out?
- 10:34When it rains, which is often, there is basically no shelter on
- 10:39the drop off or pickup curb outside the main doors.
- 10:42Calatrava chose pure aesthetics over a functional awning, so
- 10:46you're standing there admiring this beautiful building while
- 10:49potentially getting completely served waiting for your ride.
- 10:52Which brings us to the first crucial logistical hack arrival
- 10:56Do not take a taxi. Do not take a taxi unless you're
- 10:59a group of four splitting the cost or you have so much luggage
- 11:02you absolutely need door door service.
- 11:04A taxi is going to be 30, maybe €35 and it's totally
- 11:08unnecessary. The alternative is.
- 11:09This KIBUS 83247, this is the official airport bus.
- 11:12It costs €3, three EUR €3. It is extraordinary value and it
- 11:17runs with military precision every 15 minutes from early
- 11:20morning to late at night. It's clean, it's reliable, it's
- 11:24efficient. And it takes you right where you
- 11:26need to go. Perfectly.
- 11:27It drops you at Moya Plaza, which is the heart of the
- 11:30elegant modern district, or the main bus station terminus.
- 11:34It is the definition of high value transit.
- 11:37Just use it. So once the bus drops you off,
- 11:38your first impression of Bilbao is all about contrast.
- 11:41It really feels like a city of two different personalities.
- 11:43A complete visual divide. On one hand you have the Casco
- 11:47Viejo, the Old Town. This is the medieval core, the
- 11:507th St. Sociede Cais.
- 11:52It's tight, it's dark, it's winding, it's noisy.
- 11:55Wonderfully chaotic. And on the other hand.
- 11:57You have the onsage. This is the 19th century
- 11:59expansion. This is where you find the wide
- 12:02grand boulevards, the perfect St. grids, the fancy shops, the
- 12:06financial center. It feels almost Parisian in its
- 12:09order and elegance. It's a total shift in scale and
- 12:12mood. And the thing that connects
- 12:13these two worlds is the Nervion River, the Rio de Bilbao, it's
- 12:17the city spine. And it's transformation is the
- 12:20whole Bilbao effect in miniature.
- 12:23For a century that river was brown and toxic from all the
- 12:26shipbuilding and steel production.
- 12:28Now it's clean enough for kayaking.
- 12:31You see people rowing on it. That cleanup alone was a massive
- 12:34civic undertaking, maybe even more profound than the
- 12:37Guggenheim. I remember my first time in the
- 12:38Casco Viejo around 7:00 PM. The thing that hit me wasn't a
- 12:42sight. It was the sound, the sheer
- 12:45volume. Not traffic noise.
- 12:46No human noise, a genuine roar of conversation and laughter
- 12:51spilling out of all the pin sexes bars echoing in those
- 12:54narrow stone streets. It feels incredibly vibrant and
- 12:58safe, but undeniably loud. A beautiful kind of chaos.
- 13:03For me, I was struck by the commitment to design in
- 13:05unexpected places, the idea that even basic infrastructure should
- 13:08be art. I'm talking at the subway
- 13:10entrances, the famous Foster Itos.
- 13:12Named after Norman Foster, the architect, they look like these
- 13:15minimalist green glass tubes. Just sort of growing out of the
- 13:19pavement. Right.
- 13:19They're just subway entrances, but they're also sculptures.
- 13:22They're a constant signal that this city values aesthetics in
- 13:24every corner, not just the big museum.
- 13:26It's functional art. So with all that in mind, where
- 13:29you stay? Strategic lodging is key.
- 13:31Yeah, the Casco Viejo has that romantic medieval vibe, but it
- 13:35is just too loud for light sleepers.
- 13:38If you value efficiency and a good night's sleep, we strongly
- 13:41recommend the Abando District. Why Abando?
- 13:44It's perfectly central, it's quiet enough at night, and it's
- 13:47positioned right between the old chaos and the new architecture.
- 13:50You can walk to pretty much everything in 10 minutes.
- 13:52It's the strategic sweet spot, OK.
- 13:54Let's open the spreadsheet. Let's talk money.
- 13:56This is where Bilbao's efficiency really shines.
- 13:59As long as you know the hacks. Right.
- 14:01We've established its mid range. It has very high quality, but
- 14:04it's not dirt cheap like parts of Andalusia.
- 14:07But critically, it is way cheaper than its glamorous
- 14:10neighbor, San Sebastian. Let's breakdown the cost,
- 14:13starting with the biggest 1 accommodation.
- 14:15OK, if you're a backpacker you are in luck.
- 14:18Bilbao has excellent high quality hostels.
- 14:21Places like Cartier Bilbao hostel are top rated.
- 14:23You're looking at 30 to €50 for a clean bed in a great location.
- 14:27Fantastic value. And for the mid range traveler,
- 14:29most of us. You should budget between 100
- 14:32and 160 euros a night. For that you're getting a very
- 14:36good three star or a solid 4 star hotel.
- 14:39At €120, you'll get a clean, quiet room in that strategic
- 14:44Abandu district that feels way superior to what you'd get for
- 14:47the same price in London or Paris.
- 14:49And the high end The luxury snob.
- 14:51You're aiming for prime real estate.
- 14:54Think about the historic Hotel Carlton or the showstopper, the
- 14:57Grand Hotel Domini, which is literally across the street from
- 15:00the Guggenheim. Prices there will start around
- 15:03€250 and can easily climb to 500 a night for a room with that
- 15:07Iconic. View OK so accommodation is
- 15:09sorted now. Food This is where people get
- 15:11tripped up. You mentioned the pinsos trap.
- 15:13Yes, the Pinsos trap. It's a psychological trap.
- 15:16Let's break it down. Pinsos, that's pinchos, are
- 15:18these small, beautiful bites, usually on a piece of bread with
- 15:21a skewer. They look small and individually
- 15:23they seem cheap, 250, maybe €450 apiece.
- 15:26The trap is volume. You think, oh, I'm just having a
- 15:28little snack. But you graze, you talk, you
- 15:31have a drink. Before you know it, you've eaten
- 15:33six different pintos, you've had three glasses of wine and
- 15:36suddenly that cheap lunch for two people has cost you 40 or
- 15:40€50. And you might not even feel
- 15:42properly full. Exactly.
- 15:44It adds up so so quickly over 3 days.
- 15:47So how do you hack this? This brings us to contrarian
- 15:49surprise #2 it's about what you drink.
- 15:52It is. Forget the heavy red Rioja for
- 15:55daytime pintos crawling. When you're standing in a
- 15:58crowded bar eating seafood, Peppers, salty cured meats.
- 16:03You need the local white wine. You need tixicoli.
- 16:06Tell us about Tixicoli. What is it?
- 16:08Tixicoli, pronounced chacoli, is uniquely Basque.
- 16:12It's a dry, slightly acidic, slightly effervescent white
- 16:15wine. Think notes of green apple
- 16:17citrus. Critically.
- 16:18It's low in alcohol and incredibly refreshing.
- 16:20It's designed to cut through the salt and fat of the pintos.
- 16:23It cleans your palate. And there's a whole ritual to
- 16:25how it's poured. Oh absolutely.
- 16:27The bartender will pour it from high above the glass, sometimes
- 16:30a full meter up. Why do they do that?
- 16:32It aerates the wine and brings out that natural slight fizz.
- 16:36When you order a Tacole in a Pintos bar, you're signaling to
- 16:40the staff that you've done your homework.
- 16:42It is the essential pairing Pintasos and Texacole.
- 16:45OK, so that's the standing up snack.
- 16:47What about a real sit down meal for good value?
- 16:50You have to live by the menu del dia, the menu of the day.
- 16:54This is the ultimate budget hack, but you have to remember
- 16:57it is only available at lunchtime, usually between 1.3
- 17:00and 3:30 PM. And the value is.
- 17:02Staggering. For 15 to €20 you get a full 3
- 17:06course meal, a starter, a main course, often fresh fish or meat
- 17:11and a dessert plus bread and a drink, usually a glass of wine
- 17:14or water. It's a huge high quality meal
- 17:17for the price of like 2 fancy pintos and a drink.
- 17:20So if you skip that and try to eat a la carte at dinner.
- 17:22You're looking at 40 to €60 per person easily, even at a mid
- 17:26range place. The smart move is to have your
- 17:28big meal at lunch with the menu Daldia and then just snack on a
- 17:31few quality pintos in the evening.
- 17:32You'll save a fortune. And what about fine dining?
- 17:35Oh, Bilbao has that covered, multiple Michelin stars.
- 17:38You have Nurua, which is inside the Guggenheim itself or the
- 17:41destination spot Azermendi, just outside the city.
- 17:44But for that you need to budget €150 per person minimum.
- 17:48And activities. Mostly the Guggenheim is about
- 17:53€18. Book that online ahead of time.
- 17:55The funicular to Art Sanda is less than €5 round trip, but the
- 18:00real joy is just walking around, which is totally free.
- 18:02So let's summarize the total daily budget for the backpacker.
- 18:06You could easily manage this trip for about €70 a day, and
- 18:09that includes your hostile bed. And for a mid range couple?
- 18:12I would budget 180 to €220 per person per day.
- 18:16That comfortably covers a great hotel, all your transport and a
- 18:19good mix of the many dildia and fun, high quality Pintos
- 18:23experiences. So the final value conclusion is
- 18:26what? That Bilbao offers tremendous
- 18:28functional value. You are getting world class
- 18:30infrastructure, sophisticated design, and a globally famous
- 18:33food culture for prices that are maybe 20% lower than what you'd
- 18:37pay in Paris or London. It's affordable sophistication
- 18:40with an industrial soul. Now that we've got the money
- 18:42sorted, we need to focus on logistics.
- 18:45Bilbao is incredibly efficient, but there are still a few
- 18:48quirks, a few planning traps that can ruin one of your three
- 18:51precious days if you're not careful.
- 18:53Let's start with getting around. The city is very, very walkable
- 18:58and you should walk it as much as you can.
- 19:00That's how you find the little details.
- 19:01But you will need public transport for longer distances.
- 19:04The hills, the rain. And for that, your single most
- 19:08essential purchase is the Barrett card.
- 19:11This is non negotiable. It's your logistical superpower.
- 19:14In Bilbao you get it from any metro machine for a few euros.
- 19:18And what does it do? It's a rechargeable card that
- 19:20works on everything. The metro, the tram, the city
- 19:23buses, even the funicular. And here's the key using the
- 19:28Barrett card immediately cuts your fare in half compared to
- 19:31buying single paper tickets. So buying single tickets is just
- 19:35throwing money away. Literally and wasting time.
- 19:38Get the barrack card the moment you arrive.
- 19:40It's the key to efficient mobility.
- 19:41OK, let's get into the three timing traps, the ones that
- 19:44catch almost every first time visitor.
- 19:46Trap number one is the big one, the Monday trap.
- 19:49I think I know this one. It's the most common mistake for
- 19:52people on a long weekend trip. The Guggenheim Museum is closed
- 19:55on Mondays. Rigidly closed.
- 19:57The only exception is during the absolute peak of summer, July
- 20:01and August. So if you book a Saturday,
- 20:03Sunday, Monday trip and save the museum for your last day.
- 20:06You will be staring at locked doors.
- 20:08You have to check the calendar and plan your visit for
- 20:10Saturday, Sunday or Tuesday morning.
- 20:12Don't get caught by the Monday trap.
- 20:13OK, trap #2. The siesta kitchen clock.
- 20:16You have to reset your internal schedule to bask time or you
- 20:19will eat badly. Lunch is between 1:30 PM and
- 20:233:30 PM Dinner. Dinner does not even begin until
- 20:268:30 or 900 PM. So if you're starving at 60 PM
- 20:30and go looking for a sit down meal?
- 20:31You will end up in a deserted, overpriced tourist trap.
- 20:34Yeah, maybe eating that sad frozen paella we warned you
- 20:37about. Everything good is closed.
- 20:39The kitchens are not open. What's the fix for that 6:00 PM
- 20:42hunger pang? The Pintos Bar.
- 20:44They are your bridge. They serve food pretty much all
- 20:46day. If you need a snack to hold you
- 20:48over until a proper 9:00 PM dinner, go to a good Pintos bar,
- 20:53have a couple of quality bites, a glass of toxicoli, and
- 20:56recalibrate. That's how locals do it.
- 20:57And trap #3. The car Trap If your three day
- 21:01trip is just about Bilbao itself, do not rent a car while
- 21:04you're in the city. Why is it such a nightmare?
- 21:06Parking. It's an absolute disaster.
- 21:09The entire Old Town is pedestrianized.
- 21:11Many other streets have restricted access and if you do
- 21:14find a public garage the fees are insane, €2535 a day is
- 21:19normal. It'll destroy your budget.
- 21:20So the advice is simple. Only rent a car when you are
- 21:23ready to leave Bilbao and explore the region for your
- 21:25three days in the city. Just use your feet and your
- 21:28Barrett card. Let's talk gear.
- 21:30We've established it's damp and windy.
- 21:32Yes, so leave your flimsy umbrella at home.
- 21:35The wind coming off the Atlantic will destroy it in 5 minutes.
- 21:38You need a proper waterproof shell or a good rain jacket.
- 21:42But you also said specific shoes are critical.
- 21:44Yes, shoes with excellent grip. This is really important.
- 21:49The stone pavement in the Costco Viejo, the old part of town,
- 21:52gets as slick as ice when it's wet.
- 21:55It's polished stone plus dampness.
- 21:57I've seen people go down hard. Don't risk it, we're practical,
- 22:01grippy footwear. When's the best time to book
- 22:04this trip? Avoid August, it gets hot,
- 22:07humid, and incredibly crowded. Plus late August is the Austin
- 22:11Nagusia Festival, a huge 9 day city party.
- 22:15It's fun if that's what you're there for, but it's a nightmare
- 22:18for efficient sightseeing. So aim for the shoulder seasons.
- 22:21Exactly. May, June, September, even early
- 22:23October. The crowds are smaller, the
- 22:25weather is often milder, and you get a much better feel for the
- 22:28real city. Let's touch on safety again
- 22:30because it's a huge plus for Bilbao.
- 22:32It's one of the safest major cities in Europe statistically.
- 22:35Violent crime is extremely low. You can walk around late at
- 22:38night, even in the Old Town, and generally feel completely safe.
- 22:41But no city is crime free. What about petty crime?
- 22:44Pickpockets. Same as any busy European city,
- 22:48they work the high traffic areas around the Guggenheim, the Moya
- 22:51Plaza transport hub and of course in the most crowded
- 22:55Pintos bars where everyone is distracted.
- 22:57Standard precautions apply. Keep your bag zipped and in
- 23:00front of you, Don't hang anything on the back of a chair.
- 23:03The usual low level St. scams are around the river.
- 23:05To the Rosemary women, the signature petition clipboard
- 23:09people, the advice is always the same.
- 23:12Do not engage. Ignore them.
- 23:14Keep walking fast. OK, a key point on mobility.
- 23:18The city is hilly, which can be tough, but Bilbao has a genius
- 23:23solution. It's brilliant urban planning.
- 23:25They've installed free public elevators all over the city.
- 23:28You'll just see these random elevators build into hillsides
- 23:31or on street corners connecting the lower streets to the upper
- 23:34neighborhoods. And they're free.
- 23:35Totally free. They are an essential part of
- 23:37the public infrastructure and they make the city surprisingly
- 23:40accessible even if you have mobility challenges.
- 23:42And a final logistical warning for light sleepers.
- 23:44Do not stay in the Casko Viejo because you were sleeping inside
- 23:48a party that goes until two or three in the morning.
- 23:51It's fun, but the soundproofing in those old medieval buildings
- 23:55is 0. For a restful night, use the
- 23:58quieter, more modern on Sash or a Bando districts.
- 24:02You're still just a 10 minute walk from the action.
- 24:04OK, this is where it gets really fun.
- 24:06We're moving beyond logistics to the moments of discovery.
- 24:09The things the brochures don't quite capture are favorite
- 24:12moments of awe and the places that just failed the test.
- 24:16I'll let you start with your favorite discovery.
- 24:18Mine is all about function, but yours is a pure design marvel.
- 24:22My absolute best moment was spending an afternoon at the as
- 24:25Cunes Enterois. This was the Old City Wine
- 24:27Warehouse and it was completely redesigned by the French master
- 24:31Philip Stark. And it's not just a pretty
- 24:33building now, it's a living, breathing community hub.
- 24:36It's a great example of urban recycling.
- 24:38It's incredible. It's free to enter the main
- 24:40atrium, and this atrium is supported by 43 enormous
- 24:43columns. And here's the kicker, every
- 24:46single column is different. Different materials, different
- 24:48styles, different histories. Right.
- 24:50You can spend 1/2 hour just walking from column to column
- 24:53admiring the detail. But then I looked up at the
- 24:56ceiling and I saw movement light was refracting strangely.
- 25:00It took me a second to realize what I was seeing.
- 25:03The swimming pool. The ceiling is the glass bottom
- 25:05of a swimming pool. On the roof, you can literally
- 25:08see the distorted shapes of people doing lapse above your
- 25:12head. It's surreal, it's beautiful,
- 25:14it's completely unexpected. A moment of pure design genius.
- 25:18OK, that is a true design triumph.
- 25:21My favorite moment, which gets to our contrarian surprise #3
- 25:25was taking the funicular de argsanda.
- 25:27This is so often overlooked by first timers.
- 25:29They stick to the river. They do, and this funicular is
- 25:32the best return on investment in the entire city.
- 25:35It costs a couple of EUR with your barrack card.
- 25:37It's this charming old cable card that just chugs up the side
- 25:40of Mount Argsanda. And the payoff at the top?
- 25:42It's just staggering. It's the single best panoramic
- 25:45view. You see everything, the entire
- 25:48valley laid out below you. You see the Nervian River
- 25:51snaking through the city, the Guggenheim glitters.
- 25:55You can clearly see the difference between the tight
- 25:57medieval Casko Viejo and the orderly grid of the uncertain.
- 26:01There's a little cafe up there. A cheap, no frills cafe where
- 26:05you can get a beer, sit down and just absorb the sheer scale and
- 26:08ambition of Bilbao's transformation.
- 26:11If you want the definitive postcard shot that tells the
- 26:13whole story, you take it from Art Zanda.
- 26:15OK, let's flip it. Let's talk disappointment.
- 26:17The designs that failed the function test.
- 26:19I immediately think of the Zoo Bazuri Bridge.
- 26:22This is another Santiago Calatrava design.
- 26:24It's that dramatic white arched bridge with the glass floor.
- 26:27Looks amazing in pictures. It is the textbook example of
- 26:30form over function failing, especially in the damp climate
- 26:33of northern Spain. That beautiful glass floor and
- 26:38turned out to be lethally slippery when wet.
- 26:40A genuine hazard. A huge hazard.
- 26:42People were constantly slipping and falling.
- 26:44So what did the city have to do? They had to cover the beautiful
- 26:47high design glass with a boring utilitarian non slip rubber
- 26:53carpet. It completely ruins the original
- 26:56aesthetic. It's this permanent, ugly
- 26:58Band-Aid on a piece of high architecture, a necessary lesson
- 27:03in designing for your actual climate.
- 27:05My biggest disappointment was logistical and it was outside
- 27:07the city. I was so excited to see San Juan
- 27:10Godag the Godse. If the Game of Thrones stares,
- 27:13it's gone viral. It's incredibly scenic, yes, but
- 27:17visiting it requires meticulous months in advance planning.
- 27:21It's an hour from Bilbao and because of the TV show crowds,
- 27:24they've implemented A mandatory free ticket system and.
- 27:27Mandatory is the keyword. Exactly, if you just drive out
- 27:30there for the day without having booked that free ticket online,
- 27:33often months ahead, you are denied entry.
- 27:36I saw dozens of disappointed people being turned away.
- 27:38Their whole day trip was wasted. It's magnificent, but you have
- 27:41to plan way, way ahead. Any minor disappointments within
- 27:44the city itself? Plaza Nueva On a Saturday night,
- 27:47I'd avoid it. It's a beautiful neoclassical
- 27:49square. But on a weekend night it is an
- 27:52absolute zoo. The crowds are so overwhelming
- 27:55you can barely get near a bar to order a Pinto.
- 27:58It's just not enjoyable. Go on a Tuesday for lunch
- 28:01instead, you can actually appreciate the space.
- 28:04OK, so the beauty of northern Spain is how many great cities
- 28:08are packed in close together. If his deep dive makes you think
- 28:12maybe Bilbao is a bit too gritty for me, what are the
- 28:15alternatives? If you want something more
- 28:17polished, the immediate easy answer is San Sebastian or
- 28:21Dnostia in Basque. It's only an hour away by bus so
- 28:24it's a very easy connection. And San Sebastian is undeniably
- 28:27prettier. It's polished.
- 28:29It has that famous Crescent beach, La Concha, a real resort
- 28:32town feel. But there's a catch price.
- 28:34It is significantly more expensive and much more crowded
- 28:37with tourists, especially foodies, hunting for its famous
- 28:40Michelin stars. You pay a big premium for that
- 28:43polished look. What if you want that Grand
- 28:45Northern feel, but cheaper and with fewer international
- 28:48tourists? Then you should look E to
- 28:50Santander in the region of Cantabria.
- 28:53It's a very underrated city. It has beautiful bays, grand
- 28:57architecture and it feels a bit more, I don't know, royal and
- 29:01established without the huge crowds you find in San
- 29:03Sebastian. It's a great high value
- 29:05alternative. And if the rain is just a total
- 29:07deal breaker? Then skip northern Spain
- 29:09entirely. Honestly just redirect your
- 29:12focus to the South. Go to Seville for history and
- 29:14romance or Valencia for design and sunshine.
- 29:18You need guaranteed blue skies and you won't find them here.
- 29:21But if you love the Northern vibe, you recommended a specific
- 29:24combo trip to get the most out of three days.
- 29:26Yes, the three day split. It's perfect for efficiency and
- 29:29variety. Spend day one and day 2 doing a
- 29:32deep dive into Bilbao, the museum's the architecture that
- 29:35Pintos culture. Then on day three rent a car
- 29:38and. Get out of the city.
- 29:39Drive the coast to Gataria. It's this tiny historic fishing
- 29:42village about an hour away. It's the perfect palate
- 29:45cleanser. You can eat the freshest grilled
- 29:47turbo of your life, cooked on coals outside the restaurants
- 29:49and visit the Balenciaga Museum. It gives you a taste of that
- 29:52smaller coastal Basque life before you fly home.
- 29:56That sounds like a perfectly balanced trip, all right.
- 29:58It's the moment of truth. We've done the logistics, the
- 30:00cost, the culture, Now the final verdict.
- 30:04Is Bilbao worth it for you? It's time for the Bilbao Worth
- 30:08It Matrix. Let's run through the profiles.
- 30:11First up, the backpacker. A huge, resounding yes.
- 30:15The hostels are high quality, the Pinto's budget is
- 30:18controllable if you're smart, and the Barrett card makes
- 30:20transit incredibly cheap. It's a fantastic city to be
- 30:24young, curious and resourceful in.
- 30:26Next, the midrange couple. Absolutely yes.
- 30:29It's romantic in a Moody, sophisticated adult way.
- 30:33Great hotels, outstanding dining value with the menu del dia.
- 30:37It's the perfect efficient high value 3 day city break for a
- 30:40couple. The family with young kids.
- 30:42This one is a thoughtful maybe. The city is hilly and the
- 30:45museum's might bore young children.
- 30:47The puppy sculpture of the Guggenheim is a hit though.
- 30:49I'd say San Sebastian is probably easier because of the
- 30:52beach, but Bilbao is definitely doable and very safe.
- 30:55The luxury traveler. A very firm yes.
- 30:58Bilbao does luxury extremely well.
- 31:01The Grand Hotel dominate for the views, high end shopping in the
- 31:04Ensanch and world class dining at places like Azermandi, the
- 31:07three Michelin star restaurant. It's all there.
- 31:10And finally, the aesthetic influencer, the traveler who
- 31:13needs perfect light pink walls and guaranteed sunsets for their
- 31:17feed. That's a definite NO.
- 31:19This city's aesthetic is Brutalism.
- 31:22Gray skies, functional geometry. It's beautiful, but it's a deep,
- 31:26gritty beauty. If you need consistently perfect
- 31:30sunny backdrops, you will struggle here.
- 31:32So the overall verdict is clear. Bilbao is a triumph.
- 31:35It's a masterpiece of urban planning and logistical heaven,
- 31:38and it is absolutely worth 3 days of your time.
- 31:41As long as you're going for the food, the architecture, and the
- 31:43story of rebirth. Not for a tan.
- 31:45This is a city that refused to die, and it came out with a
- 31:47vibrant working soul. And that's going to wrap our
- 31:50deep dive. But before we go, one final
- 31:52provocative thought for you to explore on your own.
- 31:54We talked a lot about the Guggenheim being the catalyst
- 31:57for the Bilbao effect, but maybe the real enduring legacy of the
- 32:01city's transformation is something much less glamorous,
- 32:04much more functional. So think about this, if it
- 32:07wasn't the giant shiny museum, What non architectural piece of
- 32:12urban planning? The universal Barrett card
- 32:15system? The network of free public
- 32:18elevators that conquer the hills?
- 32:20The decades long river cleanup What truly represents the
- 32:23enduring legacy of Bilbao's comeback?
- 32:26What's the thing that actually defines a truly livable city
- 32:29long after the tourists have stopped taking pictures of the
- 32:31shiny building? That's the Bilbao Effect that
- 32:33really matters to the people who call it home.
- 32:35We'll see you in the next terminal.