Latest / Chef's PSA Podcast / Taking Over the World - One Restaurant at a Time Ep. 60
Transcript
- 0:00Hello chefs, This is Chef's PSA Podcast.
- 0:02I'm your host, Andre Natara. On today's episode, we're going
- 0:05to talk about taking over the world with your restaurant.
- 0:08Stay tuned. Now, before we get into this
- 0:22episode, just want to give everyone a very brief update.
- 0:26For those of you that have been asking, I've translated the
- 0:28first book, Culinary Leadership Fundamentals, into Italian and
- 0:31I'm working on the remaining books.
- 0:34Hopefully within a week or so, they'll all be ready to go.
- 0:38So for those of you that needed your Italian version, it's ready
- 0:42to go. Spanish versions are live, and
- 0:44of course the English versions are live.
- 0:45So if you don't have those books, go to chefspsa.com.
- 0:48All five books are available, including three free ebooks, 100
- 0:52basic recipes, critical path to opening up a restaurant and a
- 0:56culinary dictionary. Because you need to know the
- 0:58slang. That culinary dictionary, by the
- 1:01way, I don't know if I've ever said this, but there's there's
- 1:04the slang in there, there's the proper terms in there, and
- 1:07there's also slang that's unique to me that I that I put in
- 1:10there, slang that I would say with my chef friends.
- 1:13So there's some, there might be some new words that you're
- 1:15unfamiliar with and they're like a Halloween ninja or kitchen
- 1:19karate. Anyway, those are my words.
- 1:24So when you see other people using them, know who started it?
- 1:27Right here. Chef's PSA.
- 1:28What inspired today's episode? So this past week I had the
- 1:32opportunity to go to two different friends restaurants,
- 1:35one of them, Alex Castro, He's the chef over at 7 Spirits in
- 1:40Austin, TX and he used to work for me prior.
- 1:44Really good chef makes incredible Mexican food and I
- 1:48went to go check out his kitchen and I went to go try his food.
- 1:51It's very good. So shout out to Seven Spirits in
- 1:54Austin if you happen to be there.
- 1:55Great bar program, great food. Go check it out.
- 1:58Shout out to Alex and he was giving me a tour of his kitchen
- 2:00and showing me look, the tapes cut straight, the towels are
- 2:03folded. It was really proud of me and
- 2:05his kitchen looked really fantastic.
- 2:07I was happy to see him. I love, I love seeing people
- 2:09that I've worked with shine and come into their own.
- 2:11So really happy for him. And then later on that week, I
- 2:16went to go visit a good friend of mine, Gabor Alice, who's
- 2:19opening up his restaurant also in Austin, TX called Bacalar.
- 2:22He's a previous Top Chef winner, fantastic cook, went to go see
- 2:28his place, got the tour. Beautiful, was going to be one
- 2:30of the most beautiful restaurants in the city, and I
- 2:34know his food, so it's going to be excellent as well.
- 2:36So I spent a little bit of time hanging out with him this past
- 2:39week talking about his restaurant.
- 2:41But the reason I bring this up is because as I was in Seven
- 2:44Spirits Kitchen and Restaurant, and then I was in in Gabe's
- 2:47Kitchen and getting the back of the house tour and seeing what
- 2:50he's doing and getting excited as they're in preopening.
- 2:54I started to reminisce a little bit about my last experience in
- 2:59opening up a restaurant and what my mindset was like and how fun
- 3:02it is and how intense it is and how exciting it is and then the
- 3:05timing of it. I happen to be listening to an
- 3:08old podcast interview I did with Flavors Unknown.
- 3:10Shout out to Emmanuel LaRoche, good friend of mine.
- 3:12Great podcast as well and he interviewed me several years
- 3:16ago. I don't know the exact date of
- 3:18the interview, but I want to say maybe it was like 2018 or 2019
- 3:22and I went back and listened to it earlier today because it
- 3:25popped up on my timeline. It was funny for me to listen to
- 3:28it because I'm very much a chef. Still switched on, thinking like
- 3:31a chef in the grind. You could even if you, if you
- 3:33happen to listen to you can even see how I talk.
- 3:35It's probably much different to how I speak right now because I
- 3:38was still in that. I don't want to say I was wound
- 3:40up, but I'm much more relaxed right now that I don't have
- 3:43anyone reporting to me. I'm not trying to conquer the
- 3:46world. But it was good and it he
- 3:48brought up a story in that podcast which made me think
- 3:52about today's episode when I was opening up the restaurant called
- 3:57Garrison, which is a great restaurant and you know, I would
- 3:59say arguably some of the best food in that city, at least
- 4:02according to several lists. And the the chefs there, Chef
- 4:06Graham Little Chef Jacob Chischen, extremely talented
- 4:10chefs. And I would, I'd put Chef Jacob
- 4:12up against a lot of chefs up there and incredibly talented
- 4:18chefs. So shout out to Jacob.
- 4:20But anyway, when we were opening up that restaurant, we weren't
- 4:24allowed in the building, but we needed to create in in.
- 4:27In our case we needed to create about 1000 recipes because it
- 4:30was multiple concepts, but we didn't have a kitchen to cook
- 4:33out of. But we specifically, when we
- 4:36were talking about Garrison, we needed to probably create about
- 4:3930 dishes and then whittle it down to the few that that were
- 4:42going to be the ones that make the menu.
- 4:44And when we were opening this restaurant, there was a lot of
- 4:46pressure on us because of what I had done previously in my
- 4:49career, the team that I had assembled, the amount of money
- 4:52that was going into this building, the amount of press
- 4:55that was behind it, the amount of people talking, there was
- 4:58things that were said that were positive, things that were said
- 5:00that were negative. More importantly than anything
- 5:04is I wanted to plant my flag in the ground and establish that we
- 5:09were at the top of the food chain in Austin when it came to
- 5:14the level of culinary and the level of food that we were
- 5:15putting out. Mind you, this is about six
- 5:17years ago, so the food scene from Austin has definitely
- 5:20evolved. And when I go back and look at
- 5:21the food that we put on in 2017, it's it's definitely stuff that
- 5:26looks a little bit dated. But the food that they're doing
- 5:29now obviously evolves with the times.
- 5:32And what we ended up doing is we ended up renting an Airbnb
- 5:35because we had no test kitchen. And we went in there and there
- 5:38was, I want to say, 8 chefs, because we called ourselves the
- 5:40Hateful 8. And we went in there and every
- 5:43day was just head down to cook. And we had to create these
- 5:45recipes, weigh everything out, measure it to the gram, taste
- 5:49it. No, it needs more of this.
- 5:50It needs more acidity, It needs more salt.
- 5:52It's not on the level, it's not creative enough.
- 5:54And there, there was a lot of stakeholders in the, in this
- 5:56restaurant, 3 particular stakeholders that I'll call out
- 5:59was obviously myself being the head chef, Jason Purcell, who
- 6:03was the chef to cuisine, fantastic, phenomenal chef, and
- 6:08Atticus Grant, who was my #2 in charge.
- 6:12And all three of us had very different backgrounds, but we
- 6:14had to come together and create something exceptional for this
- 6:17restaurant. So we'd go through these dishes
- 6:19and taste them and we talk and is is this on the level that is
- 6:23the same as the best restaurants in our city?
- 6:25Or if not, a little bit better and we'd sit down and we'd
- 6:27dissect them. I would have different chef
- 6:29friends of mine coming in, would come in and taste and I'd want
- 6:33them to pick it apart. I wanted people to see what we
- 6:36were doing and say, okay, there's a new game in town.
- 6:39We were extremely competitive but also extremely secretive in
- 6:42what we were doing. But when you're opening up a
- 6:44restaurant, you have to be a little bit aspirational.
- 6:47So early on, the 1st 2 chefs that were hired on this project
- 6:52was myself and my chef Atticus, and we had sat in the office and
- 6:55we were talking about we really need this restaurant to be one
- 6:58of the best restaurants in the city, but we needed a benchmark.
- 7:01Now he was just moving from Chicago at the time and I had
- 7:05never eaten there, but he had. And I really looked at Smith
- 7:09Restaurant and said, you know, that that is kind of the level
- 7:12that we need to be. Because Austin at the time, even
- 7:14though, you know, people look at Austin as one of the most
- 7:18progressive food cities in the country at that time, I still
- 7:22didn't think it was on the level of a Chicago or a San Francisco
- 7:27or New York for that matter. And then one of the chefs was
- 7:30coming from Chicago and the other chef was coming from San
- 7:33Francisco. We had another chef coming from
- 7:35New York. So we kind of knew what the what
- 7:37the top end food scene would look like, but this needed to be
- 7:41ours now. We ran into a little bit of
- 7:43difficulty with this because we had no proof in concept, meaning
- 7:50we hadn't demonstrated that the level of food that we wanted to
- 7:52pull off was actually going to be accepted in Austin.
- 7:55That was problem number one. Problem number two was just
- 8:00because three or four chefs could executed at the top,
- 8:03didn't mean the 10 or 15 people that worked for us could.
- 8:07So we had to think, we're coming into a city and we're trying to
- 8:10push food to a certain level, but the guests might not be
- 8:15ready for that level and the cooks also might not be ready to
- 8:18cook at that level. So that created a little bit of
- 8:20a dilemma. So when we're doing this, we had
- 8:22to make sure that the recipes were ironclad, detailed,
- 8:25everything was specked out, weighed to the gram, and like I
- 8:28said, multiple iterations of it. But when we opened the
- 8:32restaurant, we put a couple of things on there that we thought,
- 8:36okay, this is probably going to stay on the menu for a long
- 8:38time. But we introduced items with
- 8:40training wheels and we had a plan that said, okay, we're
- 8:43going to start here because we need to introduce new techniques
- 8:47to the cooks that are working for us and we need to introduce
- 8:51new flavor profiles to the city that we're in.
- 8:53So we're going to put training wheels on and take them here.
- 8:56And we had mapped out a journey that with every seasonal menu
- 8:59change and in our case we were changing on the season.
- 9:03So December 21st, April 21st, June 21st, September 21st.
- 9:08So the 21st is usually the the first day of the new season.
- 9:11So we always set that as the marker that that would be the
- 9:14first day that we'd implement the new menu.
- 9:16So we were updating our menu 4 * a year annually, But with each
- 9:22menu iteration progressively amping up the difficulty
- 9:25setting, not just for the cooks but also for our loyal
- 9:30customers. We would take them on this
- 9:31journey, introducing them to more and more complex
- 9:33techniques, different flavors, pushing them out of their
- 9:37comfort zone a little bit with the ultimate end goal of, like I
- 9:40said, taking over the world. We wanted to become the best
- 9:43restaurant in the city. Because when you're building an
- 9:45empire, right, first you take over the town, then the city,
- 9:51then the country, then the world, right?
- 9:53So I mean that that's how you scale up.
- 9:55If you can't be the best chef in your city, you're not going to
- 9:58be the best chef in your state or your country or the world for
- 10:03that matter. So you have to start small.
- 10:05So our primary objective was how do we become the best restaurant
- 10:09in the city. And with every menu iteration we
- 10:12started to get more and more difficult.
- 10:14Now if you've if you're not from Austin, the one thing that I
- 10:17could tell you about the Austin food scene is it is a little bit
- 10:19eclectic and it it has its own unique flavor.
- 10:24So we were also trying to play to the crowd here in the city.
- 10:28So we had to, we had to quickly think what was our greatest
- 10:31advantage. And so we sat around in a room
- 10:34and I remember talking with the chefs and I said let's if
- 10:38they're not embracing us then let's just create our own lane.
- 10:43And what we recognized an opportunity, our own lane in
- 10:46this particular city is that there wasn't anyone really doing
- 10:51the high end. Well, like the the luxury
- 10:53market, the lane there was pretty clear there wasn't a lot
- 10:56of competition in there. So I said since most other
- 10:59people can't do it, let's just dive right into that lane and
- 11:03let's go more high end. Let's put the white truffles on,
- 11:06let's get the caviar, let's get the A5 Wag U, let's put the
- 11:11tasting menu on, let's push it to the next level.
- 11:13Let's buy the Gold Bernard Ode plates and let's amplify the
- 11:19luxury end to be a little bit more provocative.
- 11:23So let's push to be a little bit more high end.
- 11:25And what we found was that we created a lane all for ourselves
- 11:32with minimal competition and we became that luxury restaurant in
- 11:35the city that needed it at the time because it was still
- 11:37growing. Now I I got to say this was
- 11:40years ago, so now Austin's much different.
- 11:42I think the food has progressed in the city tremendously since
- 11:45then and I think it's not uncommon now to find caviar and
- 11:48truffles and things like that or even the the luxury market.
- 11:52I think there's some incredible restaurants here in the city
- 11:54specifically. But I but I get asked this often
- 11:58is how do you start introducing things with more and more
- 12:01complexity. So I talked about this before,
- 12:03but I would pair them up with something that's popular with
- 12:07something that's maybe on the fringe and pair them up
- 12:09together. So that way you could introduce
- 12:11the more fringe ingredient with the very popular thing.
- 12:14And so I I did this strategy when we were opening up the
- 12:16restaurant, you know, the chef to cuisine would come to me and
- 12:18we'd look at the dish and be like, yes, that's it.
- 12:20He was, he was extremely creative that had a dynamic team
- 12:23for that restaurant, which is part of the reason why it was so
- 12:26successful. But we had a laser like focus on
- 12:29what we were trying to achieve. I still view Garrison as one of
- 12:33the best restaurants in the city, and I think an argument
- 12:35could be made food wise. It's in that interchangeable #1
- 12:39spot. But in order to get there, you
- 12:41had to have a very likeminded group of individuals that all
- 12:44believed in that mission and all understood that we needed to get
- 12:46there. But the cooks had to come up at
- 12:49a certain level and the guests had to come up at a certain
- 12:52level. So when you're in some other
- 12:54markets, I'm just making this up.
- 12:56Let's say you're in a in Nebraska.
- 12:58And and by the way, I've never been to Nebraska.
- 13:01I don't know, I don't know how the restaurant scene is there,
- 13:03but let's just say you're in Nebraska and you're trying to go
- 13:07Ultra Lux and you want to bring in this Noma style menu.
- 13:10They might not be ready for it. They might not be ready for
- 13:14reindeer penises with some salad that just might not be their
- 13:19comfort zone yet. So you might want to pump the
- 13:21brakes and introduce things slowly but surely, because it
- 13:24could be the kiss of death for your restaurant.
- 13:27Because ultimately, if you bring a concept before it's time, it's
- 13:30going to fail. Just because it works now
- 13:32doesn't mean it's going to work 10 years ago.
- 13:34And it doesn't mean that it was bad ten years ago.
- 13:36It just means it's time had not yet come.
- 13:38So I, I, I caution people trying to take over the world
- 13:41immediately, right out the gate, understand your market, go in
- 13:44with a little bit of training wheels, test the waters and see
- 13:48if the city's going to be ready for it.
- 13:50I'm not sure, one last thing with you, because we're jokingly
- 13:53calling this episode taking over the world.
- 13:56But one of the things that I had done previously and sometime I
- 13:59still do to this day, like when you want to get into that
- 14:01mindset, it's a good thing to study them to and to study
- 14:06greatness and to kind of put yourself in the mindset of those
- 14:09great people. So something that I do is I will
- 14:13read books or listen to audiobooks of great people in
- 14:17history. So whether it's Alexander the
- 14:19Great, Julius Caesar, Jengas, Khan, Napoleon, whoever, right.
- 14:24So if you're if you're trying to conquer the culinary world, you
- 14:26need to know how conquerors do it, right?
- 14:27There's some strategy involved, understanding the art of war
- 14:30like you want. You have to understand how the
- 14:32tactics are used to take over what the strategy is and not
- 14:36just go in with reckless abandon.
- 14:39There has to be a certain level of thoughtfulness when you're
- 14:42going into these scenarios. Opening a restaurant is like,
- 14:46metaphorically crossing the Rubicon, right?
- 14:49When Caesar crossed the Rubicon, it was like it was an act of
- 14:51war. That's what opening up a
- 14:54restaurant is. It's the point of no return.
- 14:56Once you've put your foot in the water, you're in.
- 14:59And when you're talking about people putting in a lot of money
- 15:02in this owners, investors, you have to act swiftly.
- 15:06If you made a bad decision on a menu item, you have to adjust
- 15:10very quickly because restaurants live and die every day off
- 15:13sales. One bad review hurts way more
- 15:16than people realize. Anyway, food for thought.
- 15:20So something I thought about recently.
- 15:22Kind of Random Thoughts Podcast Take over the world.
- 15:24If you're out there conquering the world, good luck to you.
- 15:27Focus strategic, create great food.
- 15:30Have a plan. First the city, then the state,
- 15:33then the country, then the world.
- 15:35That's what Chef's PSA Podcast is doing #1 podcast, 5 Star
- 15:39Podcast. If you want to support the show,
- 15:42hit the subscribe button. If you're on YouTube, hit the
- 15:43Like button. Make sure you leave five stars.
- 15:46Go to chefspsa.com. Get all the books Culinary
- 15:50Leadership, Fundamentals in Multiple Languages Kitchen, Art
- 15:54of War, Bad Sue, Good Chef Line Cook Survival Manual, The Free
- 15:58ebooks. See you next week.
- 15:59Hit the porno music.