Latest / Hurdle with Emily Abbate / 83. Nina Williams, Pro Rock Climber
Transcript
- 0:01Speaker 1: Hey guys, Emily a body here with episode eighty three
- 0:04Speaker 1: of Hurdle, a podcast that talks to everyone from entrepreneurs
- 0:07Speaker 1: to top CEOs and athletes about how they've gotten through
- 0:10Speaker 1: tough times hurdles of sorts by leaning in to wellness.
- 0:15Speaker 1: I'm fresh back this week from Denver, where I can't
- 0:18Speaker 1: believe I'm saying this is my first time hanging out
- 0:20Speaker 1: in the city. Absolutely stunning. I did things like running
- 0:24Speaker 1: and hiking, and I drank craft beers, and I ate
- 0:27Speaker 1: all the ice cream and just did all the things
- 0:30Speaker 1: you're supposed to do in the Mile High City. I
- 0:32Speaker 1: also had the opportunity to sit down with Nina Williams.
- 0:36Speaker 2: She's a pro climber for the.
- 0:37Speaker 1: North Face and she specializes in a type of climbing
- 0:41Speaker 1: called high balling, which is essentially bouldering, but just climbing
- 0:45Speaker 1: really really high boulders. More on the craziness that is
- 0:50Speaker 1: her passion in just a little bit before we get
- 0:53Speaker 1: to it today, quick shout out to my sponsor Whoop
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- 1:37Speaker 1: you train. Second jot out of the day to Athletic
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- 1:49Speaker 1: It just makes me feel like I'm doing something good
- 1:52Speaker 1: for my body. I feel like it's my opportunity to
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- 2:12Speaker 1: that's Athleticgreens dot com slash hurdle to get yours today,
- 2:16Speaker 1: no code necessary. So today I sit down with Nina Williams.
- 2:21Speaker 1: Like I said, she's a pro climber and the type
- 2:24Speaker 1: of climbing that she does is super super difficult.
- 2:28Speaker 2: You know.
- 2:28Speaker 1: Usually we think of rock climbing, and we think of
- 2:30Speaker 1: people on blay with a rope attached to them, a harness,
- 2:34Speaker 1: but Nina's style of climbing involves none of that stuff.
- 2:37Speaker 1: It's just her moving up boulders the best that she can,
- 2:40Speaker 1: and of course there are crash pads under her, and
- 2:43Speaker 1: we talk about all the logistics of that in today's episode,
- 2:46Speaker 1: we also chat about how she got her start at
- 2:48Speaker 1: a really young age and the pressures that came hand
- 2:51Speaker 1: in hand with that. She opens up to me about
- 2:53Speaker 1: a hurdle moment right when she started climbing, where she
- 2:56Speaker 1: actually cheated her way through a couple of competitions, and
- 3:00Speaker 1: it is something that she looks back on now and
- 3:03Speaker 1: isn't all that proud of course about her actions, but
- 3:06Speaker 1: she can say without a doubt that that experience as
- 3:09Speaker 1: a younger girl really taught her so many things. She
- 3:13Speaker 1: talks to me about the sanctions that happened because of
- 3:16Speaker 1: her actions, and the lessons that volunteering instead of climbing
- 3:20Speaker 1: for an entire calendar year really taught her during this
- 3:23Speaker 1: tough time. She also continues on to tell me how
- 3:26Speaker 1: she got to where she is today, leaving college and
- 3:28Speaker 1: pursuing her climbing passions in Colorado. She tells me about
- 3:32Speaker 1: why she's back in school now, and a lot of
- 3:35Speaker 1: that is because of the lessons that she's learned on
- 3:38Speaker 1: the rocks. We chat about failure and fear, and let
- 3:41Speaker 1: me tell you this girl's perspective on fear and how
- 3:45Speaker 1: to manage it.
- 3:46Speaker 2: It's gonna blow your mind.
- 3:49Speaker 1: As always, you all know the drill at Hurdle podcast
- 3:52Speaker 1: at Emily a Body on Instagram. If you have a
- 3:55Speaker 1: hurdle moment of your own to share or just want
- 3:57Speaker 1: to say hi, you can always reach out to me
- 3:59Speaker 1: at Emily at hurdle dot us. Also special shout out
- 4:02Speaker 1: to the New Yorkers that came out to run last Friday.
- 4:04Speaker 1: A bunch of us got together about twenty or so
- 4:07Speaker 1: and just did about a five k in Central Park
- 4:09Speaker 1: and it just feels again so special and surreal that
- 4:13Speaker 1: because of Hurdle, because of what I'm putting out into
- 4:16Speaker 1: the world, that y'all want to connect and it makes
- 4:18Speaker 1: me just feel so so happy. I'd love to know
- 4:21Speaker 1: if that's the kind of thing you want to see
- 4:22Speaker 1: more often. I would love to know what kind of
- 4:25Speaker 1: events you guys want to see from me as I'm
- 4:27Speaker 1: putting some stuff together for the new year.
- 4:29Speaker 2: So shoot me a.
- 4:30Speaker 1: Message, shoot me a DM, shoot me an email, communicate
- 4:33Speaker 1: with me because I love to communicate with you. And
- 4:37Speaker 1: with that, let's get to hurdling. Today, I'm sitting down
- 4:52Speaker 1: with Nina Williams. She is a north Face sponsored pro
- 4:56Speaker 1: climber and athlete. Also, when I asked her how she
- 4:59Speaker 1: would describe her self, she said, a constantly changing and
- 5:02Speaker 1: dynamic human being.
- 5:04Speaker 2: How does that make you feel? Makes you feel more confident?
- 5:10Speaker 2: In my answer? I think hearing it said back.
- 5:12Speaker 1: To me when it said back, it sounds good. So
- 5:14Speaker 1: what does being a climber mean for you these days? Like?
- 5:17Speaker 2: What are you climbing?
- 5:18Speaker 3: So, when I guess when I first started out climbing,
- 5:21Speaker 3: it was a lot of indoor competition bouldering style and
- 5:23Speaker 3: bouldering is when you climb without any ropes, but usually
- 5:26Speaker 3: don't go up that high. So I stayed in bouldering
- 5:29Speaker 3: for a long time, and then I moved into sort
- 5:33Speaker 3: of taller bouldering, which a lot of people call high
- 5:36Speaker 3: ball bouldering, and it's a niche part of the sport.
- 5:40Speaker 3: So I have sometimes climbed boulders as tall as like
- 5:44Speaker 3: thirty forty or fifty feet tall without any ropes. I
- 5:48Speaker 3: do have crash pads at the bottom in case I fall,
- 5:50Speaker 3: you know, it'll sort of break my landing. But in
- 5:53Speaker 3: addition to bouldering and high ball bouldering, I also do
- 5:55Speaker 3: traditional climbing and sport climbing, which is more roped, say
- 6:00Speaker 3: fir style stuff.
- 6:01Speaker 2: So these days.
- 6:02Speaker 3: I'm really doing a little bit of everything while trying
- 6:04Speaker 3: to balance normal life.
- 6:05Speaker 2: Can we talk about sort of break your fall?
- 6:08Speaker 1: Like the keyword on my sentence was just like slightly alarming.
- 6:12Speaker 2: So what happens when you fall?
- 6:14Speaker 3: Well, generally, when I fall, I'll hit the ground, and
- 6:20Speaker 3: the impact of that ground fall depends on how high
- 6:23Speaker 3: up I am. The farthest I've ever fallen is probably
- 6:26Speaker 3: like twenty feet or so. And the thing about climbing
- 6:31Speaker 3: and bouldering in particular, is you actually do more falling
- 6:35Speaker 3: than climbing, like you're climbing, but you're also like inevitably
- 6:38Speaker 3: you will fall at some point. So I like to
- 6:41Speaker 3: say that I got really good at falling as well
- 6:44Speaker 3: as I got good at climbing, because you're only as
- 6:47Speaker 3: good of a climber as you are at falling to
- 6:49Speaker 3: some degree, because that fear can really hold you back.
- 6:52Speaker 3: And I think that contributed to my being able to
- 6:54Speaker 3: approach high ball bouldering with being like, Okay, I feel
- 6:57Speaker 3: comfortable with falling to the point where I can push
- 6:59Speaker 3: that height a little bit farther. But of course, you know,
- 7:02Speaker 3: once you get into like the forty and fifty foot heights,
- 7:05Speaker 3: if I fall from that height, probably going to get hurt.
- 7:08Speaker 3: And there's this, I mean, there's a small chance of uh,
- 7:13Speaker 3: something worse happening, like dying. But I have enough confidence
- 7:16Speaker 3: in myself and in the climbing that I don't really
- 7:20Speaker 3: think about the falling at all, and I don't.
- 7:22Speaker 1: Want to like underplay like how well you do this
- 7:26Speaker 1: insane stuff. I feel like we need to probably like
- 7:29Speaker 1: break it down a little bit, because I know in
- 7:30Speaker 1: climbing there are all these like jazzy little things that
- 7:34Speaker 1: we used to describe the technicality of what you're doing. So,
- 7:37Speaker 1: like when someone says that you have bouldered a V thirteen,
- 7:42Speaker 1: what does that mean?
- 7:44Speaker 3: So the V thirteen is part of a bouldering scale
- 7:47Speaker 3: where V zero is the easiest, that could be something
- 7:51Speaker 3: as easy as like a ladder, pretty much all the
- 7:54Speaker 3: way up to V seventeen, and V seventeen is like
- 7:58Speaker 3: this mythical grade there's only there's actually only one in
- 8:01Speaker 3: the world. So V thirteen is like on the slightly
- 8:04Speaker 3: upper end of that.
- 8:05Speaker 2: Got it? Okay?
- 8:06Speaker 1: And what is the most insane thing you've ever bouldered?
- 8:13Speaker 3: Probably my most recent high ball boulder, which is called
- 8:16Speaker 3: Too Big to Flail, And that's a fifty foot tall
- 8:19Speaker 3: boulder in Bishop, California.
- 8:21Speaker 2: And that is a V What that's V ten? A
- 8:23Speaker 2: V ten? Yeah? Okay?
- 8:25Speaker 1: You are based out here in Boulder. We're in Denver
- 8:28Speaker 1: right now.
- 8:29Speaker 2: Yes, Where did you grow up? I grew up in
- 8:31Speaker 2: Rhode Island on the East coast. And did you grow
- 8:35Speaker 2: up outdoors? Sort of?
- 8:39Speaker 3: I spent a lot of time in New Hampshire. I
- 8:41Speaker 3: did a lot of skiing and snowboarding when I was young,
- 8:43Speaker 3: and I still do that, but I climbed a lot
- 8:46Speaker 3: indoors as well, so split my time fifty to fifty
- 8:48Speaker 3: indoors and outdoors.
- 8:49Speaker 1: Okay, and when you were young, did you ever dream
- 8:54Speaker 1: of living out this way? Actually?
- 8:57Speaker 2: Yes.
- 8:57Speaker 3: When I first started climbing, I went to a competition
- 9:00Speaker 3: out in Colorado for the first time, and the minute
- 9:02Speaker 3: I saw, you know, the huge expanse of sky and
- 9:06Speaker 3: just all these incredibly wide open spaces, one of my
- 9:09Speaker 3: first thoughts was, I'm going to live here someday, And
- 9:12Speaker 3: then a few years later I moved out here.
- 9:14Speaker 2: Talk to me about how you started climbing.
- 9:16Speaker 3: So I started climbing because I had tried a variety
- 9:19Speaker 3: of different sports and I didn't connect with any of them,
- 9:23Speaker 3: meaning I wasn't really good at any of them, like
- 9:25Speaker 3: what I tried soccer, in ballet, swimming and horseback riding,
- 9:29Speaker 3: but I just didn't feel that natural at any of
- 9:33Speaker 3: the sports except for climbing. And so when I started climbing,
- 9:37Speaker 3: I was immediately psyched on it. And there was just
- 9:39Speaker 3: something about getting up really high off the ground and
- 9:42Speaker 3: having to trust the gear and myself that was really
- 9:45Speaker 3: appealing to me.
- 9:46Speaker 1: How old were you at the time I was twelve
- 9:48Speaker 1: years old. See that's like so impressive for a twelve
- 9:51Speaker 1: year old. And I mean, like I see little kids
- 9:53Speaker 1: at the climbing gym all the time, but in my head,
- 9:55Speaker 1: I'm like, this is such an interesting sport for a
- 9:57Speaker 1: parent to think like this is exactly what my child
- 10:00Speaker 1: should get into.
- 10:01Speaker 3: Oh yeah, my parents did not think that this is
- 10:03Speaker 3: something I should get into. Actually, my dad, who is now,
- 10:07Speaker 3: you know, one of.
- 10:07Speaker 2: My biggest supporters, but back then he.
- 10:09Speaker 3: Was like, don't you want to try like tennis or something.
- 10:12Speaker 2: Is this like a phase.
- 10:13Speaker 3: But eventually, you know, they saw how passionate I was
- 10:15Speaker 3: and were psyched.
- 10:16Speaker 2: Okay, so you start climbing at twelve.
- 10:19Speaker 3: Let's say I started climbing when I was twelve and
- 10:20Speaker 3: started competing when I was thirteen, and then I continued
- 10:25Speaker 3: to compete really up until maybe.
- 10:28Speaker 2: Like two or three years ago.
- 10:29Speaker 1: Okay, when you first started competing in the sport, did
- 10:32Speaker 1: you find like a new appreciation for it?
- 10:34Speaker 2: Was it more fun or was it just different? Oh?
- 10:36Speaker 3: Okay, so when I first started competing, it was it
- 10:39Speaker 3: was definitely more fun. It added this new element and
- 10:42Speaker 3: these new challenges for me as a young person. And
- 10:45Speaker 3: it pushed me to excel physically and mentally just by
- 10:50Speaker 3: that extra motivation.
- 10:52Speaker 1: And did you start to meet other people like through
- 10:54Speaker 1: the competition aspect of climbing.
- 10:57Speaker 3: Yeah, I started to meet I mean all of the
- 10:59Speaker 3: kids in our region and our area. We all climbed together,
- 11:03Speaker 3: and then eventually we started competing against each other, so
- 11:05Speaker 3: we were all friends. But then it sort of built
- 11:09Speaker 3: our relationships differently once we all started competing to totally.
- 11:12Speaker 1: And so as the competition becomes a more regular part
- 11:16Speaker 1: of your climbing, what do you start to learn about yourself?
- 11:21Speaker 1: I mean, you're you're super young and like definitely out
- 11:23Speaker 1: a time where you're doing a lot of growing as
- 11:25Speaker 1: like a pre teen and a teenager.
- 11:27Speaker 3: Yeah, so I guess I wasn't thinking all of this
- 11:32Speaker 3: consciously back then, but as I was getting into the sport,
- 11:35Speaker 3: especially at a time when you know, I was probably
- 11:37Speaker 3: going through puberty, and like having all of these thoughts
- 11:40Speaker 3: about who I was as a person and who I
- 11:42Speaker 3: was developing, who I was developing into. There's a lot
- 11:45Speaker 3: of pressure that I put on myself, specifically within the
- 11:49Speaker 3: competition realm and on my climbing team. So I was
- 11:54Speaker 3: one of the only women on my team, one of
- 11:55Speaker 3: the only girls on my team, and my coaches were male,
- 11:59Speaker 3: and all the rest of my teammates were male. So
- 12:01Speaker 3: that added a different element for me as far as
- 12:03Speaker 3: like expectations that I had for myself.
- 12:06Speaker 2: So, how did you manage that well?
- 12:10Speaker 3: I didn't manage it very well at the time. So
- 12:15Speaker 3: when I started competing I was thirteen, and then a
- 12:20Speaker 3: year later it turned out I had a lot of
- 12:22Speaker 3: natural talent for climbing and competition, and so my coaches
- 12:26Speaker 3: and everyone told me, Wow, you know, you're so gifted,
- 12:29Speaker 3: You're so talented, you don't even have to try hard
- 12:31Speaker 3: for this, you can just do it. And it really
- 12:34Speaker 3: targeted this fixed mentality within myself because not only were
- 12:38Speaker 3: these validations coming from other people, so it was externally motivated,
- 12:42Speaker 3: but by people telling me that I was just naturally
- 12:45Speaker 3: gifted at something, it made me feel like I had
- 12:48Speaker 3: this innate talent that I had to uphold, as opposed
- 12:51Speaker 3: to someone telling me, oh, you're working really hard for this.
- 12:54Speaker 3: And so by telling someone you have talent, it made
- 12:58Speaker 3: me want to hold on to.
- 12:59Speaker 2: That as a post to just work for it.
- 13:02Speaker 3: So ultimately I reached a point you know, as a
- 13:06Speaker 3: young person, when we had this national competition coming up,
- 13:09Speaker 3: and I thought, oh, if I can just impress, like
- 13:12Speaker 3: all of my coaches and teammates, if they think that
- 13:15Speaker 3: I'm a good climber, then maybe I'll think that I'm
- 13:17Speaker 3: a good climber on the inside. Because I really didn't
- 13:20Speaker 3: at the time. So during one of our regional competitions,
- 13:23Speaker 3: I ended up cheating in order to make it to
- 13:26Speaker 3: this national competition because it mattered so much to me
- 13:29Speaker 3: what other people thought. So I signed my initials off
- 13:33Speaker 3: on some climbs that I hadn't done in the competition.
- 13:36Speaker 3: I made it to Nationals and then didn't cheat during
- 13:38Speaker 3: Nationals because of the format, and then after Nationals was over,
- 13:43Speaker 3: I ended up placing fourth, so I got a spot
- 13:45Speaker 3: on the national team. I got a trophy and a
- 13:47Speaker 3: jacket and all that stuff. But once Nationals was over,
- 13:51Speaker 3: that feeling of inadequacy didn't go away. Unsurprisingly looking back,
- 13:55Speaker 3: but you know, I didn't see that as a young person,
- 13:57Speaker 3: and so I continued to cheat or a few more
- 14:01Speaker 3: competitions after that, and eventually luckily was caught and made
- 14:06Speaker 3: I was made an example out of, really so but
- 14:10Speaker 3: it just really taught me. You know what, why am
- 14:13Speaker 3: I climbing in the first place? Am I climbing because
- 14:15Speaker 3: I want other people to think I'm a good climber?
- 14:17Speaker 3: Or like, do I actually want to be the best
- 14:20Speaker 3: climber that I can be because I want to do it,
- 14:23Speaker 3: not because someone else wants me to do it.
- 14:25Speaker 2: I love that you said luckily I got caught.
- 14:29Speaker 1: I mean, that's such an interesting perspective to have, right,
- 14:31Speaker 1: because so many people what you realized at such a
- 14:34Speaker 1: young age, and I'm sure with years looking back on
- 14:37Speaker 1: it now, is that that experience like certainly happened to
- 14:40Speaker 1: teach you something.
- 14:42Speaker 3: Yes, definitely, because if I hadn't got caught. I mean
- 14:45Speaker 3: I probably wouldn't even be climbing today, or I certainly
- 14:48Speaker 3: wouldn't be the climber that I am today. I wouldn't
- 14:51Speaker 3: have learned those lessons. I wouldn't have really learned the
- 14:53Speaker 3: hard way, and that's kind of the only way that
- 14:55Speaker 3: I can learn sometimes it's the difficult way. So yeah,
- 14:58Speaker 3: I'm ultimately glad that it happened to me.
- 15:00Speaker 1: So what happens after this hurdle moment of sorts? Do
- 15:03Speaker 1: you like do you pull back from the sport do
- 15:06Speaker 1: you lean into the sport, Like, do you get suspended
- 15:08Speaker 1: from the sport?
- 15:09Speaker 2: How does it happen?
- 15:10Speaker 3: So part of my punishment was I was banned from
- 15:14Speaker 3: the upcoming climbing season, but I had to volunteer at
- 15:17Speaker 3: all of the competitions, which is really difficult because everyone
- 15:20Speaker 3: in my community at that time knew that I had cheated,
- 15:24Speaker 3: so it was hard to be in that space.
- 15:26Speaker 2: But it also forced me to stay.
- 15:28Speaker 3: And I did take a short break from climbing, but
- 15:31Speaker 3: I thought, you know what, like I really miss it,
- 15:33Speaker 3: and I do. I do love the sport for what
- 15:36Speaker 3: it is and not just because of what other people
- 15:40Speaker 3: think it is for me. So eventually I joined the
- 15:44Speaker 3: team again. I took a break from the team because
- 15:47Speaker 3: some of the parents wanted me kicked off, but I had,
- 15:50Speaker 3: you know, really supportive coaches and most of my teammates
- 15:52Speaker 3: were like, yeah, you know, we know that you messed up,
- 15:55Speaker 3: but it's okay, We're willing.
- 15:56Speaker 2: To take you back. Yeah.
- 15:58Speaker 1: And I think that's also so interesting in this conversation
- 16:00Speaker 1: with someone the other day, and we were talking about
- 16:04Speaker 1: sports as like a pre teen and a teenager in
- 16:07Speaker 1: high school and how they can be so just unnecessarily
- 16:10Speaker 1: serious when the people that are doing them, the kids
- 16:14Speaker 1: that are doing them are at such like a developmental
- 16:17Speaker 1: stage that like, they don't it's not professional athleticism here,
- 16:21Speaker 1: like it's just kids like trying to be active.
- 16:25Speaker 2: I don't know.
- 16:25Speaker 3: Yeah, no, that's an amazing point because I was really
- 16:29Speaker 3: blessed to have. Specifically, my coaches were like, hey, you know,
- 16:33Speaker 3: we see the kind of dark place that you're in,
- 16:36Speaker 3: but at the end of the day, like, you don't
- 16:37Speaker 3: have to impress us, you don't have to impress anybody,
- 16:39Speaker 3: like it's just do it for you. And they were
- 16:42Speaker 3: amazingly supportive in that way. But I mean nowadays, especially
- 16:45Speaker 3: with climbing going into the Olympics and climbing teams getting
- 16:49Speaker 3: really serious and the parents getting really serious, it's like
- 16:52Speaker 3: it hurts sometimes to see a lot of these kids
- 16:56Speaker 3: be in the same place that I was.
- 16:58Speaker 2: But to not have that same support system in place.
- 17:01Speaker 1: Totally Okay, so you get back on the team, Yeah,
- 17:05Speaker 1: and how's that going?
- 17:08Speaker 2: It was hard.
- 17:10Speaker 3: I felt humiliated, I felt beat down, But you know,
- 17:17Speaker 3: life goes on and people don't necessarily forget, but it
- 17:22Speaker 3: fades away with time, and I think, you know, most people.
- 17:26Speaker 3: Let bygones be bygones, and I just kept climbing.
- 17:29Speaker 1: Yeah, And so it's interesting because like you definitely could
- 17:32Speaker 1: have walked away.
- 17:34Speaker 2: Yeah, could have walked away.
- 17:35Speaker 3: But I mean, like I love climbing, Like I knew
- 17:38Speaker 3: that from the beginning. I think even when I first
- 17:40Speaker 3: started climbing, I knew that I loved it, and then
- 17:42Speaker 3: I lost sight of it in the form of ego
- 17:46Speaker 3: and pressure. But then once the ego and the pressure
- 17:50Speaker 3: were ripped off forcibly, then I was able to get
- 17:54Speaker 3: back in touch with what I really loved and just
- 17:56Speaker 3: kept doing it.
- 17:57Speaker 1: So when does it go from a lot of indoor
- 18:00Speaker 1: climbing to like really taking it outside.
- 18:03Speaker 3: Well, most of the competitions are indoors, but then when
- 18:06Speaker 3: I would go outside, it was more for fun, just
- 18:09Speaker 3: like you know, pushing myself physically without the pressure of
- 18:13Speaker 3: an arena around. But I mean I did both. So
- 18:16Speaker 3: it just depends like I would climb indoors and train indoors,
- 18:20Speaker 3: but then I would go outside right whatever I could.
- 18:23Speaker 1: Okay, So, so as you're growing up, you're climbing, you're
- 18:26Speaker 1: back to climbing, and you're getting to a place where
- 18:30Speaker 1: you're doing it more and more often.
- 18:31Speaker 2: And then what happens.
- 18:32Speaker 3: Growing up throughout my teenage years. I went through high school,
- 18:35Speaker 3: went through like you know, still competed, still climbed outside,
- 18:38Speaker 3: really did it all fifty to fifty split down the middle.
- 18:41Speaker 3: But I loved outdoor climbing so much and living in
- 18:45Speaker 3: New England. I mean, I love the East Coast, but
- 18:47Speaker 3: the mountains are not quite as big there. So I
- 18:52Speaker 3: graduated high school and then I went to college for
- 18:54Speaker 3: a few semesters at University of Rhde Island, and that
- 18:57Speaker 3: was actually a big turning point for me because I
- 19:00Speaker 3: didn't really I've never considered myself a great student, and
- 19:03Speaker 3: I've always said, oh, I'm not a classroom learner. I
- 19:05Speaker 3: just like, won't really ever be that great in school.
- 19:08Speaker 3: So I didn't know why I was at university and
- 19:10Speaker 3: I changed my major four times, and I just had
- 19:12Speaker 3: this big breakdown in the middle of midterms and was like,
- 19:14Speaker 3: I don't want to be here, like I'm wasting money,
- 19:16Speaker 3: I'm in all this debt and I don't even know
- 19:19Speaker 3: what I'm doing. So I need to go somewhere that
- 19:21Speaker 3: makes me happy. And that's when I decided to go
- 19:23Speaker 3: to Colorado. Because of that one time. You know, when
- 19:26Speaker 3: I went there first for a competition and made that decision.
- 19:30Speaker 3: In my head, I was like, that's where I'm going
- 19:31Speaker 3: to end up. So I moved to Colorado, And turns
- 19:35Speaker 3: out the training support around here and the psych like
- 19:38Speaker 3: everyone here is so strong and fit and psyched on
- 19:41Speaker 3: training and climbing that it made it really easy to
- 19:44Speaker 3: throw myself into a life that completely revolved around climbing,
- 19:48Speaker 3: like I dropped out of college, moved out West, like,
- 19:51Speaker 3: started working at Starbucks, pretty much started doing anything I
- 19:54Speaker 3: could to support my climbing habit.
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- 21:10Speaker 2: Let's get back to it. What did your parents think?
- 21:19Speaker 3: Uh, well, I'm an only child, so my parents were
- 21:22Speaker 3: not psyched that I was moving away. But at this
- 21:24Speaker 3: point I had been climbing for a long time, so
- 21:26Speaker 3: they understood my need to go to the mountains, need.
- 21:28Speaker 2: To get out. Yeah.
- 21:29Speaker 3: Uh.
- 21:30Speaker 1: And so you move here and you're climbing all the time,
- 21:34Speaker 1: And when does it go from like I'm climbing out
- 21:36Speaker 1: all the time to like I'm a pro climber.
- 21:40Speaker 3: That's a good question because what qualifies as.
- 21:42Speaker 2: Pro right, That's a great I mean, I don't know.
- 21:44Speaker 3: Yeah, there's a lot of climbers that get free gear,
- 21:47Speaker 3: that are ambassadors to the sport, that are you know,
- 21:49Speaker 3: fixtures in their community, and that's really awesome. And then
- 21:52Speaker 3: at some point climbers are getting paid. You know, we
- 21:55Speaker 3: could start out with like a travel budget or then
- 21:57Speaker 3: you move on to salary. So it just and then
- 21:59Speaker 3: like people are climbing full time, but then there's climbers
- 22:02Speaker 3: that are climbing full time with like also, I don't
- 22:04Speaker 3: know regular jobs and lives, So yeah, I.
- 22:08Speaker 2: Guess I'm not sure.
- 22:09Speaker 3: I think when I finally quit my Starbucks job and
- 22:13Speaker 3: my coaching job on the side and I was living
- 22:15Speaker 3: entirely off the money for my sponsors, that's when I
- 22:18Speaker 3: could say that I was one hundred percent professional.
- 22:21Speaker 1: Right, And so do you start traveling more or what
- 22:24Speaker 1: happens like, cause were you like kind of hanging around
- 22:26Speaker 1: the area for a little while and then like once
- 22:28Speaker 1: you really were like this is what I'm really doing,
- 22:31Speaker 1: Like I feel like it must have been such a
- 22:33Speaker 1: surreal kind of transition.
- 22:35Speaker 2: Yeah, well it was.
- 22:36Speaker 3: It wasn't that big of a transition because when I
- 22:38Speaker 3: was working at Starbucks, they I had an awesome manager
- 22:41Speaker 3: that would let me just drop everything and go for
- 22:44Speaker 3: like a month or two and then come back and
- 22:46Speaker 3: have a job. So I was already in this mindset
- 22:48Speaker 3: of like going on these climbing trips and then coming
- 22:50Speaker 3: back and working for a while and then going on
- 22:51Speaker 3: another climbing trip and coming back.
- 22:53Speaker 1: Uh.
- 22:53Speaker 3: And then once I quit Starbucks, it was just this
- 22:55Speaker 3: constant cycle of like going on a trip and then
- 22:58Speaker 3: coming back and going training and then competing and then
- 23:01Speaker 3: going on another trip. And then it just turned into yeah,
- 23:03Speaker 3: this constant flow flow.
- 23:06Speaker 1: Okay, And do you start to make a lot of
- 23:08Speaker 1: good friends in the scene over here?
- 23:11Speaker 2: Yes?
- 23:11Speaker 3: Yeah, I mean the most amazing thing about climbing is
- 23:14Speaker 3: that you can go anywhere in the world and know
- 23:16Speaker 3: people that are also into the same support as you.
- 23:19Speaker 3: So I had a really good base of friends in Colorado,
- 23:22Speaker 3: but then I mean I would spend a lot of
- 23:24Speaker 3: time in Texas, in Utah, California, and then internationally like
- 23:28Speaker 3: in South Africa and Australia.
- 23:30Speaker 2: Like just people all over the world I could tap into.
- 23:33Speaker 1: So let's talk about then, when you become more of
- 23:37Speaker 1: a well known climber, what is that transition like?
- 23:40Speaker 2: Because correct me if I'm wrong.
- 23:42Speaker 1: You have something like one hundred and sixty seven thousand
- 23:45Speaker 1: people following you on social media. So that didn't just
- 23:48Speaker 1: happen like in four seconds.
- 23:51Speaker 3: It's I mean, it's hard to say, I have never
- 23:54Speaker 3: I don't think of myself as a well known climber
- 23:58Speaker 3: because I don't ever expect people to know me, Like
- 24:01Speaker 3: I don't people know of me through climbing, sure, but
- 24:05Speaker 3: I don't know I like walk into the climbing gym
- 24:06Speaker 3: or I go to events.
- 24:07Speaker 2: And I don't, you know, I don't.
- 24:11Speaker 3: I never expect anything in that sense and still don't.
- 24:14Speaker 3: So yeah, maybe one hundred and sixty seven thousand people
- 24:18Speaker 3: follow me on Instagram.
- 24:21Speaker 2: I I guess that's not I'm.
- 24:22Speaker 3: Not even sure where that transition happened, either.
- 24:27Speaker 1: But I mean it happened. So for you, Like, how
- 24:30Speaker 1: has that impacted you? Because like, even for me, like
- 24:34Speaker 1: I do not have one hundred and sixty seven thousand
- 24:36Speaker 1: people keeping up with me in any capacity, but I
- 24:39Speaker 1: do have like fifteen thousand people keeping up with me,
- 24:42Speaker 1: and that actually like feels really overwhelming at times.
- 24:45Speaker 3: Yeah, it actually feels like a certain type of responsibility,
- 24:51Speaker 3: and it means so many different things for different people.
- 24:54Speaker 3: But for me, I guess, being well known and having
- 24:57Speaker 3: this platform with access to so many people, it's a
- 25:01Speaker 3: responsibility for me to be the most authentic person that
- 25:04Speaker 3: I can, so that I don't have to pretend to
- 25:08Speaker 3: be someone that I'm not, because ultimately being someone that
- 25:11Speaker 3: I'm not as a lot harder. But I think that
- 25:15Speaker 3: in this age of social media where we're trying to
- 25:17Speaker 3: portray these images of ourselves and to put out messages
- 25:21Speaker 3: that we think other people will like or enjoy, it
- 25:24Speaker 3: just ties back to my previous experiences of external motivators,
- 25:27Speaker 3: of being motivated by people outside of us and things
- 25:31Speaker 3: that we expect, you know, from other people where but
- 25:34Speaker 3: really like the at least in my opinion, the more
- 25:37Speaker 3: healthier motivation is something that's internal, that's coming from ourselves.
- 25:40Speaker 2: So when I.
- 25:41Speaker 3: Look at my platform and I try and think of
- 25:43Speaker 3: how I'm representing myself, it's like, I just want to
- 25:45Speaker 3: be as true as possible and express what I'm feeling
- 25:48Speaker 3: in the moment, you know, taking into consideration a wide audience.
- 25:52Speaker 3: But yeah, I'm just I'm trying to be me.
- 25:54Speaker 2: Just trying to be me.
- 25:55Speaker 1: Yeah, I want to like better understand with the bold
- 25:57Speaker 1: during situation, because it takes time to work up to
- 26:01Speaker 1: what you're doing now. So when did it go from
- 26:04Speaker 1: more I would say like traditional bouldering maybe, and not
- 26:07Speaker 1: the high the high high stuff that you're doing now,
- 26:10Speaker 1: Like when did that really start to happen?
- 26:12Speaker 2: And how did you get over?
- 26:13Speaker 1: Probably what was a lot of initial fear, I would
- 26:16Speaker 1: think to make that transition.
- 26:19Speaker 3: To make the transition from bouldering to high ball. Yes,
- 26:23Speaker 3: so part of it again ties back into getting good
- 26:26Speaker 3: at falling. So I became comfortable with falling. But when
- 26:30Speaker 3: I started climbing some of these taller boulders, like between
- 26:33Speaker 3: fifteen and twenty feet tall, I would feel my fear
- 26:37Speaker 3: in this physical way.
- 26:38Speaker 2: So I would feel it.
- 26:39Speaker 3: In my body, in my hands, in my eyes, and
- 26:43Speaker 3: it became to the point where it would just like
- 26:47Speaker 3: overcome me. It would overcome my senses, and that's where
- 26:49Speaker 3: I would freeze up, and that's where I would want
- 26:51Speaker 3: to downclimb or not try again. But once I realized
- 26:55Speaker 3: that this fear was something I could identify and become
- 26:59Speaker 3: familiar with, then it wasn't so much a matter of
- 27:03Speaker 3: overcoming my fear as much as it was like recognizing
- 27:08Speaker 3: it and accepting it as part of myself. Because the
- 27:11Speaker 3: minute I accepted my fear as a part of me,
- 27:14Speaker 3: then I could remove it from myself because I was
- 27:18Speaker 3: familiar with it and say hey, like I hear you,
- 27:21Speaker 3: I see you, I feel you in me, but I
- 27:24Speaker 3: don't have to let you hold me back because fear
- 27:27Speaker 3: it's like this survival instinct. Everyone has fear, Everyone experiences
- 27:32Speaker 3: it in these different ways. And the more we try
- 27:34Speaker 3: and ignore it and push it back into the dark,
- 27:37Speaker 3: then we can't ever see it and properly like grab
- 27:40Speaker 3: onto it and say hey, like you're here, and I
- 27:42Speaker 3: know you're here.
- 27:43Speaker 2: It's like this little it's.
- 27:44Speaker 3: Like the monster under the bed that we don't want
- 27:46Speaker 3: to acknowledge. But the minute we over rip open the
- 27:49Speaker 3: covers and we're like, oh, like this is how I
- 27:51Speaker 3: feel when I'm scared. This is what happens to my body,
- 27:54Speaker 3: and so therefore I can manage it. Then the fear
- 27:58Speaker 3: becomes something that you can like hold in and be like,
- 28:00Speaker 3: all right, I'm just gonna put.
- 28:02Speaker 2: You in the back.
- 28:03Speaker 1: Do you totally geek out over sports psychology? I've gotten
- 28:07Speaker 1: yeat really like I'm just listening do you speak? And
- 28:11Speaker 1: it's reminding me And I just literally cracked the book.
- 28:14Speaker 1: But Matt Fitzgerald's how bad do you Want It? I
- 28:17Speaker 1: literally just cracked it. But pretty much the first like
- 28:20Speaker 1: four chapters are all about what you are saying and
- 28:23Speaker 1: talking about fear and rate of perceived exertion. And so
- 28:26Speaker 1: it's so interesting because I think obviously these realizations that
- 28:31Speaker 1: you're having during your sport, while you're climbing, as you know,
- 28:35Speaker 1: are so applicable to just like everything in life. Have
- 28:40Speaker 1: you found that your progress as a climber has enabled
- 28:45Speaker 1: you to kind of unlock potential within like maybe even
- 28:49Speaker 1: your other relationships and certainly within yourself.
- 28:51Speaker 3: Yes, one hundred percent. And that actually so in climbing,
- 28:56Speaker 3: there were so many things I told myself that I
- 28:58Speaker 3: wouldn't do growing up. I was like, oh, I've never
- 29:01Speaker 3: climb V ten, I would never you know, do this
- 29:03Speaker 3: high bultb Boulder. I would never get into traditional big
- 29:05Speaker 3: wall or any of this stuff. I'd never like be
- 29:07Speaker 3: a sponsored athlete. But I proved myself wrong in this
- 29:11Speaker 3: sense because it's just these this step by.
- 29:15Speaker 2: Step progression that happens.
- 29:18Speaker 3: So once I realized these things that I told myself,
- 29:21Speaker 3: there were just limits that I placed because I didn't
- 29:25Speaker 3: believe in myself at the time. But it's it's just
- 29:29Speaker 3: like a lot of bs, it's just all these lies
- 29:32Speaker 3: and not even lies. It's just it's like these boxes
- 29:35Speaker 3: that we put ourselves in, and we don't want to
- 29:37Speaker 3: expand outside of the boxes because it's the unknown. It's
- 29:39Speaker 3: like scary stuff that we don't want to see or acknowledge.
- 29:44Speaker 3: But once I realized, wow, you know, I am, like,
- 29:47Speaker 3: I'm a decent climber, and I can do these things
- 29:50Speaker 3: if I really put my mind to it, and I thought, wow,
- 29:52Speaker 3: there's so many things that you can apply to life,
- 29:53Speaker 3: as I just said. And one of my biggest fears
- 29:57Speaker 3: or limitations in life non climbing, was the fact that
- 30:00Speaker 3: I've never been a good student, that I'm not a
- 30:02Speaker 3: classroom learner. But those are just things that I told
- 30:04Speaker 3: myself that I've made myself believe. So I'm actually going
- 30:08Speaker 3: back to school the semester for the first time in
- 30:10Speaker 3: eight years at University of Colorado, mostly not mostly, but
- 30:16Speaker 3: definitely partly to sort of spite myself and say, hey,
- 30:19Speaker 3: those are just limitations I told myself long ago. And
- 30:21Speaker 3: I know that I can graduate, and I know that
- 30:23Speaker 3: I can get good grades, and I know that I'm intelligent,
- 30:26Speaker 3: and I'm just going to prove that to me.
- 30:28Speaker 1: I know, I was in the seminar a couple of
- 30:30Speaker 1: years ago and we were talking about the difference between
- 30:33Speaker 1: saying I'm scared of heights and I have brown hair.
- 30:36Speaker 1: I have brown hair as a fact, I feel as
- 30:39Speaker 1: though I am scared of heights. Like you can work
- 30:42Speaker 1: on that. You know, it doesn't it's not a definitive.
- 30:45Speaker 1: It's not something that can't change. So it's just identifying
- 30:48Speaker 1: when it is like something feels like some kind of way,
- 30:51Speaker 1: and when something is some kind of way in differentiating
- 30:54Speaker 1: the fact versus like what we believe to be true,
- 30:57Speaker 1: I feel like you're the kind of person that probably
- 30:59Speaker 1: has a lot of really good books suggestions.
- 31:03Speaker 3: Well, actually only have one specific book to recommend. Okay,
- 31:08Speaker 3: it's called Mindset by Carol Dweck, and it's a book
- 31:12Speaker 3: that's been around for a while, but it focuses specifically
- 31:16Speaker 3: on the difference between a fixed and a growth mindset,
- 31:20Speaker 3: and it connects.
- 31:21Speaker 2: To a lot of stuff that we just talked about.
- 31:22Speaker 3: But reading that book helped me tremendously because it applied
- 31:28Speaker 3: a lot of good topics but in a really basic
- 31:31Speaker 3: and simple to understand way. And honestly, I feel like
- 31:35Speaker 3: a lot of books these days are the same thing
- 31:38Speaker 3: expressed differently. But what I love about Carol Dweck's book
- 31:42Speaker 3: is that it's because it's been around for so long.
- 31:44Speaker 3: It's just like a really good foundational book to.
- 31:47Speaker 1: Have, even though you are capable when it comes to climbing,
- 31:52Speaker 1: to like put that fear on your backside. Can you
- 31:56Speaker 1: think back to a time or specific fall or a
- 31:59Speaker 1: problem that you were trying to solve that really shook
- 32:02Speaker 1: you despite knowing that like you could handle it.
- 32:06Speaker 3: Yeah, it was probably my first real high ball, and
- 32:11Speaker 3: by real, I mean this high ball was probably like
- 32:13Speaker 3: thirty five or forty feet off the ground, and I
- 32:16Speaker 3: had tried it once on a rope the day before,
- 32:20Speaker 3: but I didn't try it again after that, like the
- 32:23Speaker 3: top tall part, And normally with these high balls I'll
- 32:26Speaker 3: climb it from bottom to top at least like two
- 32:28Speaker 3: or three or four times, so I get the move styled.
- 32:31Speaker 3: But during this first high ball, my lack of experience,
- 32:33Speaker 3: I just did the top once and then didn't really
- 32:36Speaker 3: expect to make it through the bottom part because that
- 32:38Speaker 3: was the really difficult portion.
- 32:40Speaker 1: I guess that's something also important to reiterate, because once
- 32:43Speaker 1: you get up, you have to get down right.
- 32:45Speaker 2: Yeah, And no one talks.
- 32:46Speaker 3: About that wells usually there's something called the downclimb, which
- 32:50Speaker 3: is like the easiest part of the boulder to climb down.
- 32:53Speaker 3: So on this particular boulder, there's like a five to
- 32:55Speaker 3: nine down climb, so it's not like too crazy. But
- 32:58Speaker 3: I the bottom part of this like forty foot boulder
- 33:04Speaker 3: was a V nine boulder problem, and then the upper half,
- 33:08Speaker 3: like the last twenty feet of it was five ten ish.
- 33:13Speaker 3: But again I only did the the top part on
- 33:14Speaker 3: a rope once, and so the next day I went back,
- 33:19Speaker 3: made it through the bottom unexpectedly like figured out some beta,
- 33:22Speaker 3: and then found myself on the headwall and was like, oh, well,
- 33:25Speaker 3: I've done this once before, so I should be able
- 33:27Speaker 3: to do it again, like it's totally fine.
- 33:29Speaker 2: And it was.
- 33:30Speaker 3: And I kept climbing and climbing until I got to
- 33:33Speaker 3: about maybe like ten feet from the top, so I
- 33:37Speaker 3: was solid, like thirty feet off the ground. And there
- 33:39Speaker 3: was this one foot move that I forgot about on
- 33:42Speaker 3: a rope because when I was on the rope, I
- 33:44Speaker 3: didn't think about it at all. But without the rope
- 33:46Speaker 3: everything becomes much clearer and more in focus, and I
- 33:51Speaker 3: had to make this foot move on a really slippery
- 33:54Speaker 3: nubbin and I just remember pausing and like shake, like
- 33:59Speaker 3: starting to freak out in my head, just like, oh
- 34:01Speaker 3: my god, Like I felt that fear rising in my chest.
- 34:04Speaker 3: But then something slammed the brakes and was like, no,
- 34:09Speaker 3: this is a serious situation, like this is kind of
- 34:12Speaker 3: an emergency and you cannot freak out right now. And
- 34:15Speaker 3: then my second thought was, you know, if you were
- 34:17Speaker 3: two feet off the ground, this move would be no issue,
- 34:21Speaker 3: So it shouldn't be an issue right now, and so
- 34:24Speaker 3: I made the foot move, also understanding like the longer
- 34:26Speaker 3: I waited, the more energy I wasted. So made the
- 34:29Speaker 3: foot move, got to the top, and then the minute
- 34:31Speaker 3: I got, you know, into the safe part. Once I
- 34:34Speaker 3: topped out the boulder, all the tension I had been
- 34:36Speaker 3: holding just released and my body started shaking, and I
- 34:39Speaker 3: was just like I just felt it express physically in
- 34:43Speaker 3: all this adrenaline. But yeah, that was a point where
- 34:46Speaker 3: I was like, Okay, I'm not gonna do that again.
- 34:49Speaker 3: I don't want to feel this way when I'm climbing
- 34:51Speaker 3: up up this high.
- 34:52Speaker 2: I want to be.
- 34:54Speaker 3: Confident in myself and not like I'm pushing through an emergency.
- 35:02Speaker 1: Popping into today's episode to shout out my sponsor Whoop.
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- 36:18Speaker 1: optimize the way you train. It's interesting because I there
- 36:28Speaker 1: are so many things in life that make you feel
- 36:30Speaker 1: that way that you just described right like that, like,
- 36:33Speaker 1: oh my god, I'm so anxious?
- 36:34Speaker 2: What am I doing? How am I going to get
- 36:36Speaker 2: through this?
- 36:36Speaker 1: And a lot of the time we do kind of
- 36:39Speaker 1: like succumb to it just because And and the thing
- 36:42Speaker 1: that's crazy is that even though you have done this
- 36:45Speaker 1: so many times, like you still feel that way. So,
- 36:48Speaker 1: I mean, do you have any suggestions or tactics that
- 36:52Speaker 1: you use to kind of get over that just overwhelming feeling.
- 36:57Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 36:58Speaker 3: So the voice in our head that can manifest as fear,
- 37:03Speaker 3: but it can also manifest as doubt and uncertainty. This
- 37:06Speaker 3: voice that says, you know, you're not strong enough, you
- 37:10Speaker 3: shouldn't be here, you're not good enough, you're not smart enough.
- 37:14Speaker 3: That's one part of ourselves. Again, that's like just part
- 37:17Speaker 3: of us. It's totally natural to have that. But I
- 37:20Speaker 3: like to call on what I refer to as the
- 37:23Speaker 3: observer voice, and the observer is the one that can
- 37:27Speaker 3: look at that part of us kind of like in
- 37:30Speaker 3: this dual mirror type way and be like, huh, it's
- 37:34Speaker 3: interesting that you're going through this. You know what's going
- 37:38Speaker 3: on here? What factors are making you feel this way?
- 37:41Speaker 1: Like?
- 37:42Speaker 3: What is the context? What is the situation? The observer
- 37:45Speaker 3: is able to be totally objective and specifically to use
- 37:49Speaker 3: the word interesting in a way that evokes curiosity. And
- 37:52Speaker 3: I love the word interesting in particular. I don't know
- 37:54Speaker 3: if you've ever noticed in conversation, but people are always like, oh,
- 37:57Speaker 3: that's so interesting, or like it can be either positive
- 38:00Speaker 3: or negative, but it usually is just like, oh, it's
- 38:03Speaker 3: like a little bit more questioning, a little more curiosity.
- 38:05Speaker 3: So when I use the observer voice to engage curiosity
- 38:08Speaker 3: in the situation, it's able to take that element of
- 38:11Speaker 3: fear out and just be like, Okay, what are the
- 38:13Speaker 3: facts what's going on here that I can change that
- 38:17Speaker 3: I have control over? And then what do I not
- 38:20Speaker 3: have control over that I.
- 38:21Speaker 2: Can just like be okay with.
- 38:23Speaker 3: Yeah, So tapping into the observer voice for me is
- 38:26Speaker 3: a way to be like, all right, you know, what's
- 38:27Speaker 3: going on with my body, what's going on with my
- 38:29Speaker 3: heart rate, what's going on in my head? What can
- 38:31Speaker 3: I discard that's not helping me right now? And what
- 38:34Speaker 3: can I tap into that will help me?
- 38:37Speaker 2: Yeah, totally.
- 38:37Speaker 1: I mean, where have you fell in a climbing experience
- 38:40Speaker 1: that you have literally so much so had to tap
- 38:44Speaker 1: into this observer voice.
- 38:46Speaker 3: Uh, probably on too big to flail because the style
- 38:51Speaker 3: of climbing is really insecure. So at several points with
- 38:56Speaker 3: some of the feet, you know, they were really bad.
- 38:57Speaker 3: There were like I could have popped off, and I
- 39:01Speaker 3: felt that fear rising up. I could like hear my
- 39:03Speaker 3: heart beat in my ears, and I could you know,
- 39:06Speaker 3: my hands were really sweaty and my limbs were shaking sometimes.
- 39:09Speaker 3: But I used this observer voice to just think, like, oh, like, okay,
- 39:14Speaker 3: your heart's beeeding really fast and you can hear that
- 39:16Speaker 3: right now. But that's okay because you've done these moves before,
- 39:20Speaker 3: you know what to do and you just have to
- 39:23Speaker 3: keep going.
- 39:24Speaker 1: What would you say has been one of the best
- 39:27Speaker 1: pieces of advice that you've been offered in your career
- 39:31Speaker 1: so far as a climber.
- 39:35Speaker 3: I think, and this is I mean, I've gotten lots
- 39:37Speaker 3: of great pieces of advice from a lot of people,
- 39:39Speaker 3: but one that always comes to mind was something my
- 39:43Speaker 3: coach said to me a long time ago, and it
- 39:46Speaker 3: wasn't like, you know, a little snippet of words of
- 39:51Speaker 3: wisdom or anything, but basically he told me that it's
- 39:54Speaker 3: not productive to put climbers or other people on these
- 39:59Speaker 3: petestals and to you know, like celebrities or pro climbers
- 40:04Speaker 3: or you know, anyone in this world. We're all just
- 40:06Speaker 3: people trying to work through our own lives and our
- 40:09Speaker 3: own issues and problems, and so to believe that anyone
- 40:13Speaker 3: is like so much better or so much worse than
- 40:16Speaker 3: someone else really just holds us back and holds our
- 40:20Speaker 3: own growth back because we're looking to other people. Not
- 40:24Speaker 3: that we shouldn't look to other people for inspiration, but
- 40:26Speaker 3: we should really look to ourselves for inspiration and growth,
- 40:29Speaker 3: because that's where the strongest source is is within ourselves.
- 40:34Speaker 3: So that's something I've always hold on to.
- 40:36Speaker 2: Come back to.
- 40:37Speaker 1: I love that now when you think about what it
- 40:39Speaker 1: is that like you want to do next, like what's
- 40:41Speaker 1: on the radar.
- 40:43Speaker 3: Honestly, I would really love to graduate, that's my goal
- 40:48Speaker 3: number one. But I'd love to get more into big
- 40:52Speaker 3: wall traditional climbing, a little more adventure style climbing, like
- 40:56Speaker 3: I love highballing, but I don't want to pursus sue
- 41:00Speaker 3: it as like as a sport, Like I don't want
- 41:05Speaker 3: that to be my only thing because I like, I
- 41:07Speaker 3: love that type of climbing for the aesthetics, because it
- 41:10Speaker 3: makes me really happy. But the minute I turn it
- 41:12Speaker 3: into something like, oh I have I have to go
- 41:14Speaker 3: climb something tall or like push the limits, that's just
- 41:17Speaker 3: it's an external motivator. So yeah, I'm just exploring my
- 41:21Speaker 3: options and staying psyched.
- 41:22Speaker 1: And obviously over the past few years, like I feel
- 41:25Speaker 1: like more than ever, climbing has kind of come to
- 41:27Speaker 1: the forefront, especially like in a pop culture sensation. What
- 41:31Speaker 1: would you say, like, how does that make you feel?
- 41:34Speaker 1: Is that like something that excites you? Is that something
- 41:36Speaker 1: that you're like, Oh, I kind of wish this wasn't happening.
- 41:39Speaker 3: Oh, I think it's awesome. I think it's awesome because
- 41:41Speaker 3: I think it's inevitable. Like there's no use saying I
- 41:44Speaker 3: wish it wasn't getting so big. Like climbing is great
- 41:47Speaker 3: and I'm unsurprised that it's getting mainstream. I just encourage
- 41:52Speaker 3: people to, you know, climb outside, climb in the gym,
- 41:56Speaker 3: like go wherever they're happy, find a support system and
- 42:00Speaker 3: don't let anyone else try to tell you what climbing is,
- 42:03Speaker 3: because climbing is what you make of it. Whether you
- 42:06Speaker 3: want to you know, climb outside and like be a
- 42:09Speaker 3: bit a great big adventure, or if you just want
- 42:11Speaker 3: to let go do it for fitness and do it
- 42:13Speaker 3: for fun, like make it into whatever you want it
- 42:15Speaker 3: to be, and like.
- 42:16Speaker 2: That's what I love. That's why I love the sports
- 42:18Speaker 2: so much.
- 42:18Speaker 1: I also think that being a female climber is like
- 42:21Speaker 1: an interesting thing because for so long, like we've seen
- 42:24Speaker 1: men do this, but now, especially with the rise of
- 42:28Speaker 1: climbing being in the mainstream media and seeing so many
- 42:31Speaker 1: more of these documentaries and seeing women get outside, it's
- 42:34Speaker 1: really empowering. But it's also like, again, like something that
- 42:36Speaker 1: we haven't seen much of before. So what does it
- 42:39Speaker 1: mean to you to be someone again, Like going back
- 42:42Speaker 1: to that reference point of having so many people like
- 42:44Speaker 1: keeping up with you on social at least, like people
- 42:46Speaker 1: are seeing you in a way and you're inspiring people
- 42:49Speaker 1: to do something that maybe they didn't think was something
- 42:51Speaker 1: that women would be doing.
- 42:53Speaker 2: Yeah, I mean women.
- 42:56Speaker 3: I think I don't want to make like a huge generalization,
- 42:59Speaker 3: but I think in general, women are told to stay
- 43:03Speaker 3: safe and be careful and not take risks, and climbing
- 43:07Speaker 3: offers so many avenues to do the opposite of that,
- 43:11Speaker 3: whether it's climbing you know, a fifty foot boulder or
- 43:13Speaker 3: even a five foot bolder or something like that makes
- 43:15Speaker 3: you scared. And the fact that women can do these
- 43:19Speaker 3: things and really keep up with the men to some degree.
- 43:23Speaker 2: Is amazing.
- 43:24Speaker 3: And I'm I feel in such a position of privilege
- 43:29Speaker 3: and luck to be doing the things that I do
- 43:32Speaker 3: and to inspire other women and hopefully inspire like everyone
- 43:37Speaker 3: regardless of gender. But to be able to speak to
- 43:40Speaker 3: an audience of women and say, hey, like, yeah, women
- 43:43Speaker 3: are out here doing it. Like if I'm doing it,
- 43:45Speaker 3: then you can do it too. I'm in a weird
- 43:48Speaker 3: place with this specific topic because I grew up in
- 43:51Speaker 3: a time where I was the only woman. Not the
- 43:53Speaker 3: only woman, but there just weren't other female mentors around me.
- 43:57Speaker 2: Yeah, so I had to.
- 43:58Speaker 3: Rely on myself to to inspire and to push myself,
- 44:02Speaker 3: and that can be really overwhelming. Yeah, and it was difficult,
- 44:05Speaker 3: And that's honestly one of the factors that led to,
- 44:07Speaker 3: you know, one of the reasons why I ended up
- 44:08Speaker 3: cheating is because I wanted to.
- 44:10Speaker 2: Keep up with the boys.
- 44:11Speaker 3: But these days there are so many inspiring female figures
- 44:15Speaker 3: and a much more powerful female community within climbing that
- 44:19Speaker 3: I think it's awesome that women can get together and
- 44:21Speaker 3: like go to these all female festivals or competitions and
- 44:24Speaker 3: like find community in each other. And I really encourage that.
- 44:28Speaker 3: But I also think that women should not limit themselves
- 44:34Speaker 3: to only being inspired by other women, like to go
- 44:36Speaker 3: out and do things, not to be like the first
- 44:39Speaker 3: woman to do something, but just to be the first
- 44:40Speaker 3: person to do that overall. Yeah, so it's a fine line.
- 44:44Speaker 3: I think there's like a lot of different ways to
- 44:45Speaker 3: look at it.
- 44:46Speaker 1: But again, when people look to you for inspiration, they
- 44:49Speaker 1: come to your page the someone who's super strong obviously,
- 44:53Speaker 1: like you have arms that are amazing because you climb
- 44:57Speaker 1: very big, very big rocks, So they see that. But
- 45:00Speaker 1: when you look in the mirror, what is it that
- 45:02Speaker 1: you see?
- 45:06Speaker 3: I want to look at myself in this like reflective
- 45:08Speaker 3: mirror here.
- 45:09Speaker 2: Uh gosh.
- 45:10Speaker 3: I mean, like I said before, I see someone that's
- 45:14Speaker 3: in a constant state of change. I see a young
- 45:18Speaker 3: woman who's trying to figure herself out and who always
- 45:21Speaker 3: will be trying to learn more about myself and the
- 45:25Speaker 3: people around me, and I'm really excited about that. So
- 45:28Speaker 3: I look in the mirror and I see my past
- 45:30Speaker 3: self and my future self, but I mostly just see
- 45:33Speaker 3: the present me who's trying to ask all the questions.
- 45:37Speaker 1: Aside from climbing and obviously your education at the moment,
- 45:40Speaker 1: what else are you super passionate about?
- 45:44Speaker 3: Ooh mmm, gosh, I love my hedgehog. Oh my god,
- 45:49Speaker 3: pet hedgehog.
- 45:50Speaker 2: What's your hedgehog's name?
- 45:51Speaker 3: Her name is Franki Evon Quillsberry.
- 45:54Speaker 1: Wow, Okay, that's not a pet name at all. Where's
- 45:58Speaker 1: the name from? Well?
- 46:00Speaker 3: I chose Frankie because she's a girl, but I kind
- 46:03Speaker 3: of like the idea of like this girl boy name
- 46:05Speaker 3: and then Vonk Wilsbury, you know, just add some flair
- 46:08Speaker 3: to the end.
- 46:09Speaker 2: Willsbury. How long have you had her?
- 46:12Speaker 3: I've had her since she was a baby, So for
- 46:14Speaker 3: the last five years?
- 46:15Speaker 2: Do you travel with her? I used to, but I
- 46:17Speaker 2: know't anymore. She's gotten a little dream climb.
- 46:22Speaker 3: Oh wow, that's a hard that's a hard one. Probably
- 46:30Speaker 3: something in Yosemite. Yeah, I love I love that area. Gosh, Actually,
- 46:38Speaker 3: you know what A dream climb is something is a
- 46:43Speaker 3: climb that I could bring someone else up and share
- 46:48Speaker 3: that experience, like have that experience for them be really
- 46:51Speaker 3: new and exciting and for me just being able to
- 46:55Speaker 3: share that experience with them. So any climb, you know,
- 46:57Speaker 3: because I could talk for days about like personal goals
- 47:00Speaker 3: and like climes that I'm psyched on, but I think
- 47:01Speaker 3: a dream climb would be a clime that I could
- 47:03Speaker 3: bring someone else that's new to the sport up and
- 47:05Speaker 3: just be like, hey, like check it out.
- 47:06Speaker 2: Isn't this awesome? What excites you right now?
- 47:12Speaker 3: Just having quiet time to myself, Like life has gotten
- 47:14Speaker 3: a little busy with school and climbing, and any point
- 47:17Speaker 3: where I can just sit down and like chill, that's
- 47:20Speaker 3: really special.
- 47:22Speaker 2: All right.
- 47:23Speaker 1: The way that I wind down the podcast, do you
- 47:25Speaker 1: have an opportunity right now to offer yourself a piece
- 47:28Speaker 1: of advice? Maybe your younger self going through that hurdle
- 47:30Speaker 1: moment when you have to take a year off of
- 47:33Speaker 1: the sport. You have an opportunity right now to offer
- 47:35Speaker 1: yourself one piece of advice. Looking back on that right now,
- 47:39Speaker 1: what do you tell yourself?
- 47:41Speaker 3: I think I would tell myself, you know, things are
- 47:44Speaker 3: really hard right now, but it won't be like this
- 47:47Speaker 3: forever and you'll get through it. And as long as
- 47:53Speaker 3: you trust in yourself, then things will change.
- 47:57Speaker 1: And that's it.
- 47:58Speaker 2: Amazing. Thank you so much for sitting down with me. Yeah,
- 48:01Speaker 2: thank you.
- 48:01Speaker 1: Please take a moment and leave a quick review of
- 48:04Speaker 1: the podcast by clicking the link with the description to
- 48:06Speaker 1: this episode. We all face multiple hurdles in life. I
- 48:09Speaker 1: want to hear about yours. Reach out to me at
- 48:11Speaker 1: Emily at hurdle dot us. Connect with the podcast on
- 48:14Speaker 1: Instagram and Twitter at Hurdle podcast Nina.
- 48:17Speaker 2: Where can they find you? How do they keep up
- 48:20Speaker 2: with you?
- 48:21Speaker 3: I'm on Instagram at Chaninigan's and I've also got.
- 48:24Speaker 2: A Facebook page. I love that. Can you spell that
- 48:26Speaker 2: for me? It's s H E N E E N
- 48:30Speaker 2: A G I N S. I'm so glad you did that.
- 48:34Speaker 1: I am at Emily Abadi. Another hurdle concord. Catch you
- 48:38Speaker 1: guys next time.