Latest / Skin Anarchy / E.284: Managing and understanding acne ft Jan Marini- MASTERCLASS SERIES
Transcript
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- 0:31SPEAKER_03: Hey guys, welcome back to Speaker Anarchy.
- 0:33SPEAKER_03: I'm so happy to be announcing this wonderful masterclass with the iconic legendary and happy brilliant channel.
- 1:55SPEAKER_03: So I want to introduce you guys to Jan Marini.
- 1:58SPEAKER_03: She is truly an icon in the professional skincare market for over 40 years.
- 2:03SPEAKER_03: She's been enthusiastically recognized and endorsed by the medical community for all of her innovative technologies and her patents.
- 2:10SPEAKER_03: And she was also recognized by New Beauty magazine as one of the top 20 innovators in aesthetic space.
- 2:16SPEAKER_03: And so she's truly, you know, a rock star when it comes to skin health and everything.
- 2:22SPEAKER_03: Um, she's spoken at so many different medical conferences.
- 2:24SPEAKER_03: Jen, you're such a you're such a motivation for me too.
- 2:27SPEAKER_03: Cause I just I love that you've done so much and you've put yourself out there and educated so many people.
- 2:32SPEAKER_03: So welcome to the show.
- 2:34SPEAKER_03: Thank you for giving me the honor to host you and to host this wonderful class series with you.
- 2:39SPEAKER_03: So welcome.
- 2:40SPEAKER_01: Well, thank you.
- 2:41SPEAKER_01: You know, it's a pleasure to be here.
- 2:43SPEAKER_01: And I've really, I'm really excited about this.
- 2:45SPEAKER_01: This is gonna be fun.
- 2:46SPEAKER_01: And thank you for your kind words.
- 2:48SPEAKER_03: Yes, no, it's it's truly gonna be amazing because I love that um we're gonna be going through topics that are so key to understanding.
- 2:56SPEAKER_03: And I and I love, you know, when we can really go through it systematically.
- 3:01SPEAKER_03: So before we dive into that really nitty-gritty science stuff, I want to learn more about you and just your journey um in just medicine and you know, teaching and and educating and being this being an expert really, um, if you can get kind of guide us through, you know, memory lean.
- 3:17SPEAKER_01: Well, I have been a product researcher for well over 40 years.
- 3:22SPEAKER_01: Actually, it's going on 50 years.
- 3:23SPEAKER_01: And back in the early days, my expertise was in the area of ingredients.
- 3:26SPEAKER_01: You know, when people pick up a skincare product, they look at the ingredient listing and it's complicated and it's mysterious.
- 3:31SPEAKER_01: And how do you know if it's really gonna make your acne better or worse?
- 3:35SPEAKER_01: Is it really gonna help your fine lines and wrinkles?
- 3:37SPEAKER_01: Is it really gonna have an effect on discoloration?
- 3:40SPEAKER_01: And I did a lot of lecturing to physicians and skincare professionals, medical professionals, a lot of radio and television.
- 3:47SPEAKER_01: It lends itself really well to talk shows, and people love to hear about ingredients and what works and what doesn't work.
- 3:52SPEAKER_01: But as time went on, I began to develop associations with physicians and researchers literally all over the world, and I really started to focus on uncovering and identifying breakthrough technologies.
- 4:04SPEAKER_01: And I have to tell you, I always qualify the term breakthrough because anytime somebody comes to market with a product, it's always a breakthrough.
- 4:12SPEAKER_01: So, what I'm really referring to, these are things that weren't in the marketplace.
- 4:16SPEAKER_01: And as an example, I was an early glycolic acid pioneer back in the early to mid-80s.
- 4:22SPEAKER_01: You couldn't walk into a department store or drugstore and buy a glycolic acid product.
- 4:29SPEAKER_01: It didn't exist commercially.
- 4:31SPEAKER_01: And then around 1989, going into 1990, I financed and brought to market two product lines.
- 4:37SPEAKER_01: Um, I'm going back a lot of years, so people may not remember these, but MD Formulations and MD Forte.
- 4:43SPEAKER_01: Now they were unique for a couple of reasons.
- 4:47SPEAKER_01: One, it was probably the first real glycolic acid line in the marketplace, but I made a decision that I was going to market them through physician offices.
- 4:56SPEAKER_01: And that was unheard of.
- 4:59SPEAKER_01: And I have to tell you, Ecta, this is my fourth business.
- 5:02SPEAKER_01: And that was the most challenging time I've ever had in a career because physicians were incensed that you would ask them to sell products out of their office.
- 5:12SPEAKER_01: Or as I said, I'm not going to sell cosmetics, didn't even consider it to be skincare.
- 5:17SPEAKER_01: Well, now, of course, the rest is history, but it was unique for another reason because in 1994, it was the first company in the professional market in that doctor space skincare company that was ever purchased by a major pharmaceutical firm, Allergan.
- 5:34SPEAKER_01: And so on July 1st, 1994, we took down the MD formulation sign and we put up the Jamlini skin research sign, and here we are.
- 5:43SPEAKER_03: Wow, that is mind-blowing.
- 5:46SPEAKER_03: I you're a pioneer.
- 5:47SPEAKER_03: I mean, through and through.
- 5:48SPEAKER_03: That's that's so interesting that you said that was the hardest time, but that's you know, that that was the moment, the turning point.
- 5:55SPEAKER_03: Wow, that's crazy.
- 5:57SPEAKER_03: I mean, so then what happened after that?
- 5:59SPEAKER_03: So you just I know you have so many patents and you've done so much, you know, in addition to that.
- 6:05SPEAKER_03: So, what was the next step for you once it was Jamarini?
- 6:07SPEAKER_01: You know, I really found a Jammerini skin research because I felt that the professional market was in its infancy.
- 6:16SPEAKER_01: And you know, when you look at the professional market, it really still is a very young market in comparison to skincare venues, department stores that have been out there for you know decades and decades and decades.
- 6:28SPEAKER_01: And this really started in right around 1990.
- 6:32SPEAKER_01: And so it's kind of in a way, it was sort of the Wild West.
- 6:35SPEAKER_01: And I thought, well, with Jamarini Skin Research, I could bring to market a company, not only that I would really pioneer new technologies, but in terms of just education and just really being able to partner with resellers and physicians and and and that professionalism, I really wanted to bring that into the marketplace.
- 6:57SPEAKER_01: And um we've, you know, we're going into our 27th year, and it's I'm I'm I'm you know, I'm really proud.
- 7:05SPEAKER_01: We've we're an international company, and I I think that we're highly respected in the physician marketplace.
- 7:11SPEAKER_01: And it's not just, you know, one of the things that I always say, Ecta, you always want to have the best product.
- 7:19SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 7:19SPEAKER_01: Nobody ever tells you that they have the second best product, right?
- 7:22SPEAKER_01: But everybody wants to have the best product.
- 7:25SPEAKER_01: But you know that there's a lot of companies out there that have done very well that don't have the best product, and sometimes it's because they're the best partner.
- 7:33SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 7:34SPEAKER_01: And so I really always wanted to be the best partner, not only have the best products and efficacious products, but to the best partner for our resellers.
- 7:44SPEAKER_01: And I I think we've we've done a really good job of that.
- 7:47SPEAKER_03: Oh, absolutely.
- 7:48SPEAKER_03: And you know, honestly, Jen, I want to know because this must have been such an interesting journey in terms of working with the physicians and turning their kind of mindset.
- 7:58SPEAKER_03: So can you tell us a little bit more about that?
- 8:00SPEAKER_03: Like what it was like when you first really kind of like, you know, uh, I guess got through to a doctor and said, This is a, you know, I'm I'm coming up to you with real treatment options here, you know, not this isn't just cosmetics or whatever.
- 8:14SPEAKER_03: Like, what can you give us like a story or an uh, you know, example?
- 8:18SPEAKER_01: Well, I think there were two things that were really catalysts.
- 8:21SPEAKER_01: One is that because it was glycolic acid, yeah, it did have some validity, and glycolic acid was being studied uh for things like acne scarring and for appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, there were studies that were starting to emerge having to do with collagen deposition, and it it was it was really getting some high marks.
- 8:45SPEAKER_01: But then I also have to say that one of the things that happened at that time that was another catalyst was managed health care.
- 8:56SPEAKER_01: So when you look at this from a business perspective, you have a physician, say a dermatologist, and maybe they're getting$60,$65 for an appointment, and then all of a sudden managed healthcare comes in, and they're lucky if they get$10 or$15 for that same appointment.
- 9:16SPEAKER_01: Right, right.
- 9:17SPEAKER_01: Um, and you know, the doctor is still paying the same rent, they're still paying the same staff, and so you they began to look outside the box for ways to draw in discretionary income outside of managed health care.
- 9:34SPEAKER_01: But at the same time, they needed to feel that it was still something that was efficacious and wasn't outside their you know commitment to medicine.
- 9:44SPEAKER_01: Yeah, well, you so it's there were some favorable conditions that just happened around that time that I was able to take advantage of.
- 9:54SPEAKER_01: But still, it was a very, it was it was really a very um challenging situation.
- 10:01SPEAKER_03: No, I can imagine, and I and I didn't mean to interrupt you earlier, but I think this is, I mean, this is truly uh great stuff if you look at it from you know my perspective, because I can tell you, you know, as an MD, I've I've seen that like you know, doctors hitting this wall when it comes to like you know, technologies and being open-minded, and for you to be able to be right there and being able to offer real solutions to physicians that they could really get behind in terms of science, that's huge, Jan.
- 10:28SPEAKER_03: I mean, that's you know, like I I mean, I I just want to rave about that.
- 10:32SPEAKER_03: Yeah, that's amazing.
- 10:33SPEAKER_03: And to do that, yeah, I bet it was really difficult.
- 10:35SPEAKER_03: That's you're going against the system, you know, you're going against a whole system at that point.
- 10:40SPEAKER_01: But I will tell you one thing, Ecta, and I remember the very first conference where I ever had a table where I exhibited.
- 10:49SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it was Dr.
- 10:51SPEAKER_01: Mark Rubin, who was a dermatologist who has gained a lot of notoriety for his work in TCA peels.
- 10:59SPEAKER_01: And he used to host some, you know, I mean, kind of medium-sized conferences, but he could get 500, 700 physicians that would come and listen to his technique.
- 11:08SPEAKER_01: And they none of these conferences had ever had any skincare exhibitors ever.
- 11:14SPEAKER_01: So he asked me if I wanted to have a table, and it was right outside the conference room.
- 11:20SPEAKER_01: I had a six-foot table on one side of the door.
- 11:22SPEAKER_01: On the other side of the door was a company that was not selling to physicians.
- 11:28SPEAKER_01: They it was a company called High Screen, which is sold in drugstores, and it was simply like they just were making physicians aware of the product.
- 11:35SPEAKER_01: And he Dr.
- 11:37SPEAKER_01: Rubin mentioned the product, and he mentioned, said some things about it on how efficacious it was and what he was able to achieve with with our products.
- 11:46SPEAKER_01: And I'll never forget they broke for lunch, and the doctors came out of the room and they swarmed around the table, and literally it everything happened so fast, my lunch was gone, and all the products were gone.
- 12:00SPEAKER_01: And that was but that was really kind of uh a milestone in terms of at least with that group right there, starting to get some credibility.
- 12:11SPEAKER_03: Yeah, yeah, that's amazing.
- 12:13SPEAKER_03: I love that.
- 12:14SPEAKER_03: You know, I think it's it's just quality, you know, Jan, it's innovation.
- 12:17SPEAKER_03: When you see real innovation as a scientist or a doctor, you're just like, oh my gosh, this is real, you know, and it's so easy to get behind.
- 12:24SPEAKER_03: So that's amazing.
- 12:26SPEAKER_03: And I I love that you told us, you know, a little bit about um, you know, and I hope through this masterclass, I would love for you to tell us these little stories because, you know, it's not every day we get to hear from um, you know, especially women pioneers in this like medical science research, you know what I mean?
- 12:42SPEAKER_03: Like it's like a big, like, like I feel like people categorize it either either you're a woman in medicine or you're a woman in science or you're a woman, but it's like when you finally when I meet someone like you, you've you've crossed so many different, you know, categories here.
- 12:55SPEAKER_03: And I I really admire that.
- 12:56SPEAKER_03: So I would love to, you know, go through our series, like kind of pick your brain a little bit.
- 13:00SPEAKER_03: Um, but I want kind of you know and I want to but I want to dive in to um to you know, really the the knowledge and I want you to educate us.
- 13:09SPEAKER_03: And I know I've been watching a little bit, um, you know, sneaking into your lives on Instagram and stuff, and I've I've really um been listening to you speak about things like acne and you know, uh really kind of go into the science and the nitty-gritty.
- 13:21SPEAKER_03: And I heard you say that acne is an epidemic today, and I would love for you to speak on that a little bit.
- 13:27SPEAKER_01: You know, it is it's an actual epidemic among women in their 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s, and beyond.
- 13:34SPEAKER_01: And when I say women, I'm not leaving men out of it, but men typically don't have acne past the age of 23 because they reach something called terminal beard growth.
- 13:42SPEAKER_01: The beard reaches its full diameter, pushes everything out of the follicle.
- 13:46SPEAKER_01: You rarely see men unless they have something like acne fuminins or acne conga blata.
- 13:49SPEAKER_01: You don't you don't see them with complaining about acne the way that women do throughout literally their entire adult life?
- 13:58SPEAKER_01: And this is something that affects an individual's self-image and self-esteem.
- 14:05SPEAKER_01: It really um has an effect on how you view yourself, and it's unfortunate for consumers because there's not a lot of real solutions out there.
- 14:16SPEAKER_01: Now, do you know that in the consumer marketplace I think it's something like$1.3 billion is spent or more each year on acne solutions, and more money is spent on non-prescription acne solutions, so-called solutions, than if you took all the prescription products and put them together.
- 14:38SPEAKER_01: And if you are an adult female, do you pick an acne solution, which typically is uh uh goes toward the teenage skin?
- 14:47SPEAKER_01: Maybe it's gonna dry the skin out and your skin looks red and it peels and it looks worse than ever.
- 14:51SPEAKER_01: Or do you go for your anti-aging solution and now your acne gets worse?
- 14:56SPEAKER_01: And so this range of adult consumers, and we work with teenagers as well, but they need to be taken seriously and really have real solutions that can address complete clearing as well as addressing their concerns with the appearance of aging.
- 15:14SPEAKER_03: Yeah, and and that's a whole process too.
- 15:17SPEAKER_03: So I want I want to um you know start from the beginning.
- 15:19SPEAKER_03: So, like, how does acne really start?
- 15:21SPEAKER_03: Like, where where does it begin?
- 15:23SPEAKER_03: You know, whether as teenagers or adults.
- 15:26SPEAKER_01: Well, I feel that it's really helpful to sort of paint a picture in the listener's mind because so many times when you're trying to find a solution, you don't really understand what is it that you're trying to address.
- 15:42SPEAKER_01: What is the process?
- 15:43SPEAKER_01: And first of all, the term acne is a term that's used to describe or identify a process.
- 15:49SPEAKER_01: Now, sometimes people say, Well, I don't have acne, I just break out once in a while.
- 15:53SPEAKER_01: Doesn't matter whether you break out once a day, once a month, whether you break out 10 times a day, it's all acne.
- 15:58SPEAKER_01: It's a term that's used to describe a process.
- 16:01SPEAKER_01: Even when you have blackheads or clogged pores or just little, maybe some little mild bumps on the skin, that would be even still a form of non-inflammatory acne.
- 16:11SPEAKER_01: And it's referred medically as retention hyperkeratosis.
- 16:14SPEAKER_01: Um, we think it could be hereditary, but we haven't discovered the acne gene, but it makes sense.
- 16:19SPEAKER_01: You know, it's common sense.
- 16:20SPEAKER_01: If mom and dad have acne, chances are the kids are going to have acne.
- 16:24SPEAKER_01: We see it running in families, but you could be the only person in the family that has it, or the only person that doesn't.
- 16:29SPEAKER_01: You can skip a generation.
- 16:31SPEAKER_01: It's very complex, it's multifaceted, it's an inflammatory process, and nobody wants to hear this, but there's no cure for acne.
- 16:40SPEAKER_01: Now, we can manage it, we can get complete total clearing.
- 16:43SPEAKER_01: Even Accutane is not a clear for it's not a cure for acne.
- 16:47SPEAKER_01: Statistically, medical statistics show that about 50% of people fail accutane.
- 16:53SPEAKER_01: And by that meaning their acne comes back to some extent where it's not acceptable.
- 16:57SPEAKER_01: Of the 50%, where it's not considered a failure, their acne may be better, but very often, if you talk to people that have been on accutane, they still break out.
- 17:05SPEAKER_01: It's just not, they don't break out as badly.
- 17:08SPEAKER_01: And sometimes they go into a remission where they may be very clear for six months or a year and then gradually it starts to come back.
- 17:15SPEAKER_01: We can get complete total clearing, we can manage it.
- 17:18SPEAKER_01: So, in terms of the process, when you think about the outside of your skin, the stratum corneum, it's a dead layer.
- 17:26SPEAKER_01: That's the layer that we look at and we touch, and it sheds about 500 million cells a day, shed them all over your whole body.
- 17:31SPEAKER_01: When you look at a follicle opening, you're looking at the opening into a long hollow tube, it's about as big around as the diameter of a hair.
- 17:38SPEAKER_01: And that tube is lined with dead cells, very much like on the outside.
- 17:44SPEAKER_01: They constantly shed into the follicle.
- 17:46SPEAKER_01: At the end of the tube, you have sebaceous glands.
- 17:48SPEAKER_01: One of the reasons you produce oil is not to stay young forever, but because the oil pushes the cells to the surface, they sit there and they fall off, and that's the normal process.
- 17:57SPEAKER_01: Now, individuals that have a tendency to acne, the cells stick together.
- 18:04SPEAKER_01: We don't understand why.
- 18:05SPEAKER_01: Acne starts in the follicle.
- 18:08SPEAKER_01: So, you know, people are obsessed with a breakout.
- 18:11SPEAKER_01: You get a breakout, and oh my god, I gotta scrub it away, I gotta pick it off, I've got to do something.
- 18:14SPEAKER_01: That's the end of the process.
- 18:16SPEAKER_01: You have to prevent it.
- 18:17SPEAKER_01: So it starts in the follicle with the cells sticking together.
- 18:21SPEAKER_01: And what happens is those cells continue to stick together and stick together, the very mildest form of acne would be where the follicle dilates.
- 18:29SPEAKER_01: You see that like an open comidone or a blackhead.
- 18:32SPEAKER_01: And you know, you can go and get those extracted or you can squeeze them, but the reason that they're back so quick sometimes by the next day is because you've done nothing to interrupt the process, it just pushes itself back up to the opening.
- 18:43SPEAKER_01: Now, in more serious acne, cells stick together, cells stick together, and the there's lit traps oil, and there's literally no oxygen in there with the trapped oil and the cells.
- 18:57SPEAKER_01: And so it also traps P.
- 18:59SPEAKER_01: acne bacteria.
- 19:00SPEAKER_01: Now, P.
- 19:00SPEAKER_01: acne bacteria is harmless.
- 19:01SPEAKER_01: You can't catch it, you can't spread it, you can have the clearest skin of anyone, and you still have colonies of P.
- 19:07SPEAKER_01: acne bacteria, just part of your body.
- 19:10SPEAKER_01: But when it's trapped in the follicle with the oil and dead cells, it eats the oil and then it excretes this fatty acid byproduct that's very toxic.
- 19:21SPEAKER_01: And what it does is it wears down your follicle walls.
- 19:24SPEAKER_01: If everything stayed in your follicle, you wouldn't have a problem.
- 19:28SPEAKER_01: But when it starts to wear down the follicle walls, you can end up with either a leak, a rupture, or a blowout.
- 19:38SPEAKER_01: Now, a leak would happen near the top of the follicle, and so some of this inflammatory material comes outside and it's an inflammatory process.
- 19:46SPEAKER_01: You end up with a little red bump, a capule, maybe it turns into a pestuole.
- 19:50SPEAKER_01: If it's a rupture, it's deeper, more material goes outside, and as it makes its way to the surface, you get a nodular aminis.
- 19:58SPEAKER_01: Those are those hard underground lesions, take a lot longer to go away.
- 20:02SPEAKER_01: They typically don't scar, but they leave discoloration.
- 20:07SPEAKER_01: A scar is an injury to the dermis.
- 20:10SPEAKER_01: It's not discoloration.
- 20:13SPEAKER_01: That's not a scar.
- 20:14SPEAKER_01: We can get rid of the discoloration.
- 20:16SPEAKER_01: And if you have where the side of the follicle literally looks like it blew up, and lots of material comes outside and it's down much deeper.
- 20:25SPEAKER_01: It goes into the dermis, it destroys collagen elastin as it makes its way to the surface.
- 20:30SPEAKER_01: You and you're gonna end up with a full-blown cyst, and that typically does scar because you have destroyed collagen, you've destroyed elastin, and so you could end up with an ice pick scar or a rolling scar, a boxcar scar, you know, a divot, something like that.
- 20:45SPEAKER_01: Um, so that's that's that's the process, and and again, it's so important to understand that acne starts in the follicle, and you have to interrupt that process.
- 20:59SPEAKER_01: You can get a complete total clearing.
- 21:02SPEAKER_01: Um, you can't guys, nobody in the you can't see me, but if you could see me, I'm a two-time Accutane failure.
- 21:10SPEAKER_01: And my skin, I never break out.
- 21:12SPEAKER_01: My skin is flawless all the time.
- 21:15SPEAKER_01: But if I didn't do what I do every single day, I guarantee you I would start breaking out.
- 21:20SPEAKER_01: And the other thing that's important for people to note is that you can do something that's not necessarily appropriate for your skin that maybe is acneogenic.
- 21:31SPEAKER_01: And it's not like you're going to break out tomorrow necessarily.
- 21:34SPEAKER_01: There can be a lag time.
- 21:36SPEAKER_01: And I'll give you a really good example.
- 21:38SPEAKER_01: The average age at which females begin to develop hips in the US is eight years old, and the onset of puberty is measured by breast development, not menstruation.
- 21:47SPEAKER_01: So you've got, say, a little nine or ten year old girl and she's got biting breasts and she's in puberty, but her skin is perfect.
- 21:54unknown: Right.
- 21:55SPEAKER_01: She could be developing these little microcomidones, these little this little club, this little Bit of dead cells that are starting to stick together.
- 22:03SPEAKER_01: And she could have perfect skin and then wake up on her 12th birthday and all of a sudden she's breaking out.
- 22:09SPEAKER_01: So it took that long for those microcomidones to kind of develop.
- 22:14SPEAKER_01: They can sit there and they can be dormant.
- 22:16SPEAKER_01: So it's so just because you have a period where maybe your skin is clear for whatever reason, it doesn't mean that you've you've you've somehow you've cured your acne.
- 22:31SPEAKER_01: You've got to do something every single day.
- 22:33SPEAKER_03: So you're basically, yeah, and you're telling us um that basically it's the skin.
- 22:38SPEAKER_03: I mean, we have to take care of the skin.
- 22:40SPEAKER_03: It's not so much about, you know, people focus, I feel like, so much on like specific things, like it, and in terms of like just too focused, but really it's about overall skin health.
- 22:50SPEAKER_03: It's like keeping your skin in homeostasis almost.
- 22:54SPEAKER_01: Well, I think that there is this um, there is this sort of focus on somehow.
- 23:04SPEAKER_01: Well, let me put it to you this way.
- 23:06SPEAKER_01: Let's just say that you didn't have any genetic tendency to acne at all.
- 23:10SPEAKER_01: Yeah, you had really clear skin, and only about one to two percent of the teenage population escapes acne.
- 23:17SPEAKER_01: So that means it's the same, you know, really with adults.
- 23:20SPEAKER_01: But let's say you were one of those very fortunate people.
- 23:23SPEAKER_01: Well, theoretically, you could put dirt on your face every day and you wouldn't break out.
- 23:27SPEAKER_01: Acne starts in the follicle.
- 23:30SPEAKER_01: So, you know, there's this obsession with maybe cleaning the skin, or that somehow, if you you hear all kinds of crazy things, um, put toothpaste on is that it'll make it go away.
- 23:42SPEAKER_01: And so we're obsessed with how we can make something go away as opposed to how we can prevent it.
- 23:48SPEAKER_03: Yes, that's oh my gosh, I'm glad you said that.
- 23:51SPEAKER_03: Yeah, I agree.
- 23:52SPEAKER_03: I agree.
- 23:52SPEAKER_03: That's really about the prevention.
- 23:54SPEAKER_03: And you know, that's interesting what you were talking about the follicle aspect because um, you know, there's a lot of, for example, once you start seeing the acne, um, you know, a lot of teenagers love to spot treat, right?
- 24:07SPEAKER_03: So can should we be spot treating?
- 24:11SPEAKER_01: Well, you know, there's something that could happen with, for example, breakthrough, and we can we can talk about the solution for all of this, but even if you have a good solution, occasionally you could have breakthrough.
- 24:22SPEAKER_01: Maybe it's something in your diet or it's excessive stress or something like that.
- 24:28SPEAKER_01: And there are ways in which you can decrease the initial inflammation or maybe help the lesion to go away a little bit faster by maybe just being more vigilant or a little bit more aggressive with the the kinds of topical treatments that work.
- 24:49SPEAKER_01: Um, but really again, it's prevention.
- 24:53SPEAKER_01: And even if you have the breakthrough, most people find that it is minor and it goes away so much more rapidly than it did before they were using the right regimen.
- 25:07SPEAKER_03: Yeah, yeah.
- 25:09SPEAKER_03: That makes sense.
- 25:11SPEAKER_03: Now, what about okay?
- 25:12SPEAKER_03: So I know that you had mentioned teenagers, and then you know, we have adults.
- 25:17SPEAKER_03: So with teenagers, um, as you discussed, you know, puberty is such a difficult thing to kind of pinpoint.
- 25:23SPEAKER_03: And I feel like a lot of people are talking about that, right?
- 25:25SPEAKER_03: With hormones and stuff.
- 25:26SPEAKER_03: But then what about adults?
- 25:28SPEAKER_03: Like, can you give us a little bit of information about adult acne?
- 25:32SPEAKER_03: Like, well, you know, how does that really what is that?
- 25:34SPEAKER_01: Well, why do we you know, pretty much it's acne, acne is acne, but it then again it's not.
- 25:43SPEAKER_01: And so with adult women, there's a little bit of a difference.
- 25:51SPEAKER_01: Um, and it depending on who you talk to or what statistics you look at, this could be as many as 95 or more percent of adult women that have some kind of persistent breakout.
- 26:02SPEAKER_01: So when you think about adult females, typically they can break out anywhere, but typically the breakout, whether it was on their forehead or their cheeks as a teenager, maybe they didn't have any acne as a teenager.
- 26:14SPEAKER_01: It started when they were 25.
- 26:15SPEAKER_01: I hear this all the time, you know, or my acne kind of went away after I got in, you know, turned 20, and then all of a sudden I'm 35 and it's back again.
- 26:23SPEAKER_01: It's usually on the chin, the jawline perioral, that area.
- 26:28SPEAKER_01: And typically it is that really persistent nodular kind of acne.
- 26:34SPEAKER_01: Now, here's what's going on.
- 26:37SPEAKER_01: So, in your follicle, you have certain enzymes that are harmless.
- 26:42SPEAKER_01: Isozyme type 1, isozyme type 2, known as fibroeductase.
- 26:45SPEAKER_01: You have them up on your scalp too, in your follicles.
- 26:48SPEAKER_01: And then outside your follicle, you have hormones, hopefully.
- 26:51SPEAKER_01: You have estrogen, you have progesterone, you have testosterone.
- 26:54SPEAKER_01: Now, we women have almost as much testosterone as men, but it's bound by hormones.
- 26:58SPEAKER_01: And it's kind of like having a sack around them, and it keeps us from getting a deep voice and a hairy chest and a mustache, big mustache.
- 27:05SPEAKER_01: Some of us get little mustaches, but um, and what happens is that if you have a little bit of a testosterone sensitivity, and it's not something that shows up in a blood test, it's not like having polycystic ovary.
- 27:19SPEAKER_01: You there's a wide range of normal.
- 27:21SPEAKER_01: So a lot of times people say, Oh, it's my hormones must be off because I break out every time I'm around my period.
- 27:26SPEAKER_01: And it can be perfectly normal, but you can have a little bit of a testosterone sensitivity, or you can produce a little free testosterone, and it gets together with the enzymes in the follicle, they shake hands and they produce dihydrotestosterone.
- 27:41SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's the most aggressive form.
- 27:43SPEAKER_01: And guess what?
- 27:44SPEAKER_01: It's acne, chin, jawline, perioral, and it's very, very stubborn.
- 27:49SPEAKER_01: It'll fail accutane, it'll go away, but it'll come right back.
- 27:53SPEAKER_01: And so um that is what is really kind of the underlying.
- 27:59SPEAKER_01: Now we can get into some more complexities about kind of what causes this, but I there's a solution for it.
- 28:06SPEAKER_01: Yeah, what is that?
- 28:08SPEAKER_01: Okay, so this is really for the solution for any acne.
- 28:13SPEAKER_01: But I always say that you can do anything you want, but if you really want complete total clearing, there's really no negotiation, no exception.
- 28:19SPEAKER_01: So, number one, you've got to introduce something into the follicle that helps interrupt the process of the cells sticking together.
- 28:27SPEAKER_01: So that's the first part.
- 28:29SPEAKER_01: And we do that with the skin care management system.
- 28:33SPEAKER_01: Now, the skin care management system is a boxed set of product that really is for anyone, it addresses virtually any common skin concern.
- 28:44SPEAKER_01: But the reason people always say, Well, how can it address so many different concerns?
- 28:49SPEAKER_01: Or how can I be on the same system and address so many different concerns?
- 28:53SPEAKER_01: And I'll give you an example.
- 28:54SPEAKER_01: There's a product in there called BioClear.
- 28:56SPEAKER_01: Now, bioclear is glycolic, salicylic, and azlaic acid.
- 29:00SPEAKER_01: Azlaic acid is sold by prescription for acne.
- 29:03SPEAKER_01: It's also sold by prescription for rosacea.
- 29:06SPEAKER_01: It's also one of the best resurfacing agents we've ever seen for the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and just pore size and just refining the skin.
- 29:13SPEAKER_01: It's also a pigment lifting agent for individuals that have discoloration and makes the skin just look a lot more even.
- 29:20SPEAKER_01: And then in that product is also glycolic acid.
- 29:24SPEAKER_01: Now, active, all the skincare ingredients in the entire world that have been studied medically, where you have biopsies and you have histological studies, and they've been studied at medical conferences and presented, all the ingredients in the world that are cosmetic.
- 29:38SPEAKER_01: There are two that have been studied more than any other.
- 29:40SPEAKER_01: One is retinoids, one is glycolic.
- 29:42SPEAKER_01: And glycolic has this ability because of small molecular weight to dissolve and dislodge the glue-like substance between cells on the surface of the skin.
- 29:52SPEAKER_01: So it resurfaces the surface, it makes it look incredibly glowing, refined, and helps with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- 30:02SPEAKER_01: And in the follicle, because of small molecular weight, it goes into the follicle, dissolves and dislodges the glue-like substance or cellular cement between cells so they don't stick together, interrupts the acne process.
- 30:14SPEAKER_01: Now I could talk for an hour on glycolic in terms of how it also stimulates glycosaminoglycans and mucoply saccharites and ceramides and phospholipids and hyaluronic acid.
- 30:24SPEAKER_01: But for this purpose here, I can take somebody who has skin that's kind of aging, and I can completely transform it.
- 30:34SPEAKER_01: But at the same time, the person who has acne, and they may have acne and aging, we can also address that.
- 30:39SPEAKER_01: And finally, salicylic.
- 30:41SPEAKER_01: Now we've all heard of that because we know it's used for acne, but in this combination, it works much better.
- 30:46SPEAKER_01: And it's it's kind of a nice resurfacing agent, it makes the skin a little brighter.
- 30:50SPEAKER_01: So you put those three together.
- 30:52SPEAKER_01: I've never seen anything for home care that can address so many different concerns, and the whole system is geared toward those common skin concerns, whether it's you know fine lines or it's acne or etc.
- 31:08SPEAKER_01: Um, so that's number one.
- 31:10SPEAKER_01: That's the first part.
- 31:11SPEAKER_01: So the second part is and a product called duality.
- 31:16SPEAKER_01: Now, duality is a product that's got two chambers, okay, and you pump each side out and then you mix it together in your hand.
- 31:24SPEAKER_01: But the the first chamber is benzoyl peroxide, and I gotta tell you, I know what everybody's thinking.
- 31:32SPEAKER_01: I can hear them.
- 31:33SPEAKER_01: They're going, but Shannon, benzyl peroxide is a teenage medication, it's gonna dry out my skin.
- 31:38SPEAKER_01: This is not mom's benzoyl peroxide or your daughter's benzoyl peroxide or the infomercial benzoyl peroxide.
- 31:44SPEAKER_01: This is something benzoyl peroxide works because benzoil forces peroxide in the fulcal, releases oxygen.
- 31:52SPEAKER_01: Piacne bacteria can't live in oxygen, it kills it better than anything we've ever seen.
- 31:57SPEAKER_01: And that's a statement by the American Academy of Dermatology.
- 31:59SPEAKER_01: And if you're working with the right product, you can't develop a resistance.
- 32:03SPEAKER_01: If it works for you once, it'll work for you forever.
- 32:06SPEAKER_01: Now, it the most benzyl peroxide, virtually all of it, is micronized, so it doesn't feel rough.
- 32:12SPEAKER_01: It's micronized to 60 microns.
- 32:15SPEAKER_01: This is 12 microns, or excuse me, five microns.
- 32:19SPEAKER_01: It's 12 times smaller.
- 32:21SPEAKER_01: It doesn't dry and it bypasses the surface, and it works better and it works quicker, and it doesn't dry.
- 32:32SPEAKER_01: Now, how can I say that?
- 32:34SPEAKER_01: Well, one of the reasons I can say that is not only do the studies demonstrate it, but we tested this product in Alberta, Canada with Dr.
- 32:43SPEAKER_01: Jaggy Rao.
- 32:44SPEAKER_01: Now, Dr.
- 32:44SPEAKER_01: Jaggy Rao is a deram that's board certified in the US and in Canada.
- 32:48SPEAKER_01: He's head of the dermatology residency program at the University of Alberta, and he um is also the CEO and founder of the Acne Clinics of Canada.
- 32:56SPEAKER_01: He treats virtually more acne than any other doctor.
- 32:59SPEAKER_01: So we did a study with him, and it was done in weather that was 20 to 40 degrees below zero.
- 33:10SPEAKER_01: And this in the study, the patients in the study, their skin was actually more hydrated after the study than before the study with this benzoyl peroxide.
- 33:19SPEAKER_01: So that's part one.
- 33:21SPEAKER_01: Now the second part of the chamber is retinol, and this is not just any retinol, but I won't go into a lot of details.
- 33:31SPEAKER_01: But retinol is a gold standard for acne, right?
- 33:44SPEAKER_03: Pardon?
- 33:45SPEAKER_03: It's the gold standard for everything right now because it's it's not, you know, we don't know much about it or anything else, you know.
- 33:52SPEAKER_01: Here's the interest, it's it's been studied now for well over 50 years.
- 33:56SPEAKER_01: And so I'm gonna tell you a couple things of why it's so amazing, why we can address the acne, but we can de-age the skin at the same time.
- 34:04SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 34:05SPEAKER_01: So retinoids kind of change the environment and the follicles.
- 34:08SPEAKER_01: So they work different than glycolic, they work different than benzyl peroxide, but it's very synergistic.
- 34:15SPEAKER_01: But one of the things about a retinoid that is so stunning is how it de-ages the appearance of skin.
- 34:24SPEAKER_01: So bear with me for a moment because it gets gonna this is gonna get really good.
- 34:29SPEAKER_01: So, you know, we say to people all the time, we say, when you look in the mirror and you start to see the first signs of aging, and maybe your pores look larger and your texture looks different, and your skin starts to just look duller and fine lines, and we say, Well, you know, most of that damage happened before the age of 10.
- 34:44SPEAKER_01: It takes 10, 20, 30 years to show up, and at least 50% before the age of 20.
- 34:48SPEAKER_01: So we intellectualize that, but we don't really unpack it, we don't really quite understand what that means.
- 34:55SPEAKER_01: So your genes are made up of DNA, and some of your genes are expressive genes, so they express out information or instructions.
- 35:03SPEAKER_01: It's like a blueprint.
- 35:04SPEAKER_01: Doesn't matter if you have a cold or a broken bone or you have a sunburn, your body, if it's going to be normal again, that's the instructions, it has to read those instructions and go by those instructions to learn to know how to repair.
- 35:21SPEAKER_01: So when you're born, those instructions pretty much are perfect.
- 35:25SPEAKER_01: It's like a perfect CD.
- 35:27SPEAKER_01: Your epigeome is just it's just the clarity is beautiful, there's not a scratch on it, and of course, you're making brain cells and muscle mass and you're growing, and you're in an anabolic state, and you maybe you're you know, you're you're getting a few little scratches along the way onto that that CD, but still you're repairing beautifully.
- 35:48SPEAKER_01: Then you hit 20 or so, and now you're going into a catabolic state, and you're you know, you're fully cooked.
- 35:56SPEAKER_01: And so you're gonna you're going into a small decline, even though you may not really notice it, but you're starting to not repair quite the same way because your instructions, they've got lots of scratches on them, and so it's not the interpretation is not quite the same.
- 36:10SPEAKER_01: You're not gonna repair the same way at 40 that you did at 15, you're not gonna repair at 50 like you did at 20.
- 36:17SPEAKER_01: And so we start to see this as aging, both internally and externally.
- 36:24SPEAKER_01: You know, again, we see larger pores, we see textural changes, we start to see fine lines.
- 36:30SPEAKER_01: Every person on the face of the earth by the age of 35 will have abnormal pigmentation, and so here is what is just so absolutely astounding, and that is that we know for a fact that the right retinoid can actually repair the instructions coming from your DNA.
- 36:49SPEAKER_01: That's a fact, yeah.
- 36:50SPEAKER_01: And you could take two twin girls that have identical DNA and put them on the same skincare program, but have one using a retinoid, one doesn't, and in 10 or 15 in 10 years when I look at 10 or 15 years younger than the other.
- 37:07SPEAKER_02: Right.
- 37:08SPEAKER_01: So we can I can literally really transform, I could put somebody who doesn't have acne, I wouldn't do this, but I could put somebody on on duality that doesn't have acne, and I can transform their skin from an from an appearance of aging.
- 37:22SPEAKER_01: And so um it's really a breakthrough.
- 37:25SPEAKER_01: And I had physicians say to me for years, Jan, if you could just take the two gold standards, benzyl peroxide and a retinoid, and somehow put them together.
- 37:34SPEAKER_02: Yeah, yeah.
- 37:36SPEAKER_01: And the other thing about that chamber with the retinoid is that it has something that gets rid of discoloration, the leftover acne discoloration about 300 times faster.
- 37:48SPEAKER_01: Um, we also have something in there that helps to block the fiber reductase and that testosterone sensitivity from getting together and forming dihydrochestosterone.
- 38:00SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 38:03SPEAKER_03: Fiber reductase for everyone listening is an enzyme that converts into testosterone, right?
- 38:08SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 38:08SPEAKER_01: Right.
- 38:09SPEAKER_01: So we have something that blocks, you know, helps to block that, which is again that really that significant issue in adult females.
- 38:16SPEAKER_01: And we also have peptides and we have anti-inflammatories.
- 38:20SPEAKER_01: So um it's really exceptional, there's just nothing like it, along with the system, to be able to address all of those concerns that people have that go along with acne and just you know, getting as we get older.
- 38:38SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 38:38SPEAKER_03: No, I'm okay, I'm very, very intrigued right now because when you were talking about the um benzyl peroxide and um the the duality, right?
- 38:46SPEAKER_03: Here, it's very, very interesting for me as a scientist because I'm thinking of, well, you've just created an artificial way to create, well, not artificial, but just a better, more you know, directed way to do an oxidative burst.
- 38:59SPEAKER_03: And that's you know, normal way that we kill bacteria in our body is this one of the mechanisms is an oxidative burst.
- 39:06SPEAKER_03: So we were doing that and destroying those bacteria with that, but then you've got the retinol, and now the retinol is working on a genetic expression level, right?
- 39:16SPEAKER_03: So that's very interesting to me in terms of timeline.
- 39:20SPEAKER_03: Can like how long does it take for someone to really see this like results of like, well, now I'm not breaking out like I used to anymore?
- 39:27SPEAKER_01: You know, like that's a really good question because let me mention to you something about benzyl peroxide that I want to mention and I'll answer your question.
- 39:36SPEAKER_01: So I told you the P acne bacteria is part of your body.
- 39:39SPEAKER_01: So you can't do anything that's bacteria sidal.
- 39:42SPEAKER_01: I can't kill it permanently.
- 39:44SPEAKER_01: This is bacteriostatic.
- 39:47SPEAKER_01: So, what I do with the benzyl peroxide is every single day I keep those colonies down.
- 39:53SPEAKER_01: That's why I say if I miss one day, the colonies come back, they eat the oil, and whether you break out the next day or maybe in a few days, it you're going to have a backlash.
- 40:06SPEAKER_01: Now, the the thing with benzo peroxide, and I'm sorry, ask me your question again, and then I got off track.
- 40:12SPEAKER_01: Excuse me.
- 40:13SPEAKER_03: No, I was just no, you were on track, actually.
- 40:15SPEAKER_03: I was just wondering about like the timeline of the this treatment.
- 40:18SPEAKER_01: Oh, how long it takes.
- 40:19SPEAKER_01: Okay.
- 40:20SPEAKER_01: So, first of all, when you're using the system and you're using this, it's so common.
- 40:26SPEAKER_01: Our practitioners tell us this all the time that the patient will say, Is it my imagination?
- 40:32SPEAKER_01: Even just like the next after a day or two, they'll say, My skin looks smoother, my pores look smaller, my skin just seems to be a little calmer.
- 40:41SPEAKER_01: And typically with benzyl peroxide, because it works so fast, that you can see a huge difference in the skin in just a week or two with new breakouts, because you can immediately help to interrupt that process, and you start to see it on the outside, but you have fewer new breakouts.
- 41:05SPEAKER_01: And the existing breakouts tend to go away a little faster.
- 41:09SPEAKER_01: Now, with females, it's cyclical because I oftentimes will say you might get complete clearing where you're not breaking out in the first two or three weeks, but then your period comes and sometimes you might have a little flare-up, but then each subsequent cycle, the flare-up is less and less until you have complete total control.
- 41:33SPEAKER_01: So it's very rapid.
- 41:34SPEAKER_01: I actually have done interviews where I've talked about you call it countdown to the holidays, and you know, you say, Well, you've got six weeks before the new year or four weeks before new year, we can get you completely clear.
- 41:46SPEAKER_01: Yeah, wow, that's really cool.
- 41:48SPEAKER_01: I like that.
- 41:49SPEAKER_01: But it's it's managed, it's not a cure, it's managed because if you didn't do this, it's gonna come back.
- 41:57SPEAKER_01: There's no cure for acne.
- 41:59SPEAKER_03: Yeah, and you know, it's all about like creating this balance in your the largest organ of your body.
- 42:05SPEAKER_03: And that's a beautiful I I love that you're you know explaining this so in a systematic way, because I think the fundamental thing that I most consumers miss, which you know, uh you're clearly aware of Jen, is that it it's this understanding of what is it that I need to do for my skin so that I don't have to worry about it anymore, you know, like I don't have to think about am I gonna break out and like you know, right before that event I have to go to, or is all this stress gonna break?
- 42:34SPEAKER_03: Like those kind of questions.
- 42:36SPEAKER_03: And I I I think that is just the most unique approach.
- 42:39SPEAKER_03: I've never seen that really, other than you know, I like this is the first time I'm seeing this really like in-depth approach where it's more preventative than anything.
- 42:47SPEAKER_03: And I, you know, I I think consumers really need to get on that bandwagon, I think, more because it's it's really Esther.
- 42:54SPEAKER_01: I spent when I I developed severe cystic acne, and I mentioned I was trying to accutane failure around uh just before I turned 19, 2020.
- 43:07SPEAKER_01: And I ended up being one of the last groups connected with Stanford University before Accutane was fully approved for uh regular use.
- 43:17SPEAKER_01: And um, and then I went on it again um about oh a year later.
- 43:23SPEAKER_01: But I used to wake up, if I woke up in the middle of the night, the first thing I did was I put my hand on my face.
- 43:30SPEAKER_01: That was the very first thing I did because I wanted to see, oh my god, if I'm gonna find in the morning that I've got, you know, two new cysts or something.
- 43:37SPEAKER_01: And to have to know, to be able to actually know what I'm doing and to be able to have complete control and manage it is such a gift.
- 43:49SPEAKER_01: And one of the things when I'm interviewed by the media, there's usually two questions I get asked.
- 43:54SPEAKER_01: One is do I use my own products?
- 43:57SPEAKER_01: Which yes, I do.
- 43:58SPEAKER_01: And the second one is, What is it that inspires me or motivates me?
- 44:02SPEAKER_01: You know, why do I read all the medical journals and I do the research and I develop product?
- 44:07SPEAKER_01: And I give the same answer every single time.
- 44:10SPEAKER_01: I do it for me.
- 44:11SPEAKER_01: I develop these products because I'm selfish.
- 44:13SPEAKER_01: I don't want adult acne.
- 44:15SPEAKER_01: I don't want discoloration.
- 44:17SPEAKER_01: I don't want rosacea.
- 44:20SPEAKER_01: I'd like to keep fine lines and wrinkles away as long as possible.
- 44:23SPEAKER_01: I'd like to have healthy, you know, radiant, younger looking skin as long as possible.
- 44:28SPEAKER_01: And I don't think I'm different than anyone else.
- 44:31SPEAKER_01: And the average female has over$600 in product in her bathroom, she doesn't use.
- 44:36SPEAKER_01: And I always say, I don't want another product.
- 44:40SPEAKER_01: I want a solution.
- 44:42SPEAKER_01: And that's really when I founded Jamarini Skin Research.
- 44:47SPEAKER_01: It was really about finding solutions for common skin concerns, not just because a product feels good or it's got some ingredient that has something, you know, somebody developed something that had to do with wound healing or whatever.
- 45:00SPEAKER_01: And so they put it in every single product.
- 45:02SPEAKER_01: It's really about building products from the ground up and that are actual solutions.
- 45:07SPEAKER_01: And I always say, think about how you'd feel about your skin if you're able to address every one of the common skin concerns that bother you.
- 45:15SPEAKER_03: Right, right.
- 45:16SPEAKER_03: No, I I I'm with you.
- 45:18SPEAKER_03: And I think this is, you know, this is so interesting to me, especially because, you know, when I think of just the female consumer, right, Jen, I think of like we have so many different concerns that we all, you know, every day something new pops up that we want to avoid or we want to prevent.
- 45:34SPEAKER_03: But then especially with women who are pregnant or they're getting or they are pregnant or they're about to get pregnant, and then they get very concerned, you know, we're sitting here talking about retinol, right?
- 45:44SPEAKER_03: So this is where I get very kind of flustered with with women because they want to say things like, Well, I want to go the all-natural route with my products now because I'm pregnant, but I still want to use a retinol.
- 45:55SPEAKER_03: So can you tell us about how to really treat acne when you're pregnant and if you should go which route you should go, what you should be doing?
- 46:04SPEAKER_03: Because here's my thing.
- 46:05SPEAKER_03: I'm gonna I'm not gonna lie.
- 46:06SPEAKER_03: I would, if I was pregnant and I still want to take care of my skin and stick to like, you know, as close to my routine as possible, I would go more towards something like that's scientific, you know, like you know what you're talking about.
- 46:18SPEAKER_03: I would go more towards the doctors and be like, give me clinical grade or clinically, you know, tested skincare rather than natural ingredients or organic.
- 46:27SPEAKER_03: So that's a really good question.
- 46:28SPEAKER_01: Now, the first thing I'm gonna say is that if somebody were to call our technical support department and say, I'm pregnant, can I use water?
- 46:36SPEAKER_01: The answer would be ask your doctor.
- 46:40SPEAKER_01: Because so that's always the answer.
- 46:42SPEAKER_01: But with that said, what I will tell you is that benzyl peroxide is not contraindicated in pregnancy.
- 46:50SPEAKER_01: If you look at the physician's estrogen or the studies, it's not contraindicated in pregnancy or nursing.
- 46:54SPEAKER_01: Now it's still up to the physician, but we make a separate benzyl peroxide that's not connected with the retinol.
- 47:00SPEAKER_01: Now, with retinol, the way that retinol works is you have a receptor site, everybody has it in their skin, an enzyme, and when it comes in contact with this enzyme, it is immediately converted into retinoic acid or tretinoin, the active ingredient that's in the prescription.
- 47:16SPEAKER_01: So retinos are controversial, but if I were to look back on the years of all of the plastics and the female derms that all used continue to use the prescription retinoids when they were pregnant.
- 47:31SPEAKER_01: So, you know, it kind of goes back to when my mom was pregnant with me, she took 25,000 units of vitamin A in the prenatal every day.
- 47:42SPEAKER_01: And for whatever reason, thinking that this could have a some connection to particular birth defects, they cut it down to 10,000.
- 47:50SPEAKER_01: But the fact is, and this is just an overabundance of cautions, to think that if you put a retinoid on your face and somehow it's going to go through your skin, into your bloodstream, into your liver, and then it's going to make it to the fetal and through the sac and all of that, is kind of almost it's just almost impossible.
- 48:12SPEAKER_01: But as an overabundance of caution, I understand this.
- 48:15SPEAKER_01: So I leave it up to the physician, and many physicians are fine with retinol, more so than they are with a prescription retinoid.
- 48:23SPEAKER_01: But it's up to the doctor.
- 48:25SPEAKER_01: Now, both of my stepdaughters, their OBGYNs were fine with them using retinol during pregnancy, but it's up to the doctor.
- 48:34unknown: Right.
- 48:34SPEAKER_01: Benzyl peroxide, you can we have that separately.
- 48:37SPEAKER_01: There's no contraindication that I know of with glycolic or any of the other kinds of ingredients that we work with.
- 48:45SPEAKER_01: And you're absolutely right because a lot of ingredients that are so-called natural, yeah, organic, that are not tested, and many times can have um certain levels of uh of toxicity, um, and or just don't work.
- 49:03SPEAKER_01: You know, it's just it's a waste of money because we don't have receptor sites in our skin for plants.
- 49:08SPEAKER_01: Right.
- 49:08SPEAKER_03: And also it's like we don't have a way of dosing that.
- 49:12SPEAKER_03: You know, that's that's one of my biggest draws to you know, innovators such as yourself is that you guys think differently.
- 49:19SPEAKER_03: And this is something I've been trying to like just put out on this podcast as much as I can is that when you approach a skin health expert, you shouldn't even have to ask them things like, well, what about the dose?
- 49:30SPEAKER_03: And what about this?
- 49:31SPEAKER_03: And is it gonna work?
- 49:32SPEAKER_03: Because they've already thought about that, you know, and it's like you you're already on that.
- 49:37SPEAKER_03: Like, I I a doctor is not going to just say, Oh, by the way, just take some aspirin.
- 49:41SPEAKER_03: They're gonna say, no, take 81 milligrams of bait aspirin.
- 49:44SPEAKER_03: It's called baby aspirin.
- 49:45SPEAKER_03: You know, people give you numbers when they know what they're talking about.
- 49:48SPEAKER_03: And my biggest pet peeve is when women who are pregnant, they're like, Well, I just don't trust, you know, clinical grade skincare.
- 49:55SPEAKER_03: And I'm like, then that's an oxymoron.
- 49:58SPEAKER_03: Like, I don't get it.
- 49:59SPEAKER_01: I don't understand.
- 50:00SPEAKER_01: Ecto, uh, when the European, when when the UK, Great Britain became part of the European Union, they took on certain rules and regulations.
- 50:11SPEAKER_01: So it used to be that you could export product or to uh the UK, and it was just you know basically the same as the US.
- 50:19SPEAKER_01: There were no particular regulations that were that much different.
- 50:22SPEAKER_01: But the European Union had very strict um compliance in place where you had to do if a company like Jam Rini Skin Research were going to export product, it had to go through toxicity testing, and it had to be done by a toxicity expert who was in the UK and it had to be done on every single product, and then your formulas and all of these results had to be put with a what was called an interested third party, where their health ministry could anytime they needed to could look at these records.
- 50:56SPEAKER_01: And so the toxicity testing was so strict because there are things we use here in the US that we don't even think about, that they won't even allow you to have one gazillion of a of one part of one millionth of whatever in the product, and so as a result, a lot of companies that are so-called organic or natural or whatever, they can't import into there.
- 51:21SPEAKER_01: They can't.
- 51:22SPEAKER_01: Now we passed on every level, right?
- 51:25SPEAKER_01: And if there was anything we needed to change, we changed those same products in the US as it is there.
- 51:30SPEAKER_01: So they have been tox tested.
- 51:33SPEAKER_01: I mean, doesn't it get any stricter?
- 51:36SPEAKER_03: Yeah, no, I and that's you know, it's expected, you know.
- 51:40SPEAKER_03: I think when when things are done right, those kind of things just, you know, those kind of uh checks and balances just exist.
- 51:47SPEAKER_03: It's more about researching who you're buying products from and what that company stands for.
- 51:53SPEAKER_03: You know, if I were to just give like any consumer advice, that would be my like main thing is like make sure you do your homework, you know, make sure you're understanding who it is that's behind the line that you're buying.
- 52:04SPEAKER_03: And so yeah, I I love that you mentioned that.
- 52:06SPEAKER_03: And I love that there are stringent criteria there that everyone should be aware of, right?
- 52:11SPEAKER_03: I mean, I'm so glad that you know, Jan Marini research products are are there and they're tried and true and tested.
- 52:16SPEAKER_03: But I'm I hope other brands can learn from that and really kind of keep this in mind that these things do exist and you are liable.
- 52:23SPEAKER_03: You know, you have to go through these this whole process.
- 52:26SPEAKER_03: So um now I want to ask you, what about um, like we talked about pregnancy.
- 52:32SPEAKER_03: Now, what about all other types of like adult hormonal acne?
- 52:35SPEAKER_03: I mean, is is it really is there a difference?
- 52:37SPEAKER_03: Like, what is the difference?
- 52:39SPEAKER_03: How does it I mean, what are all the different, you know, um categories, I guess you could say?
- 52:44SPEAKER_01: It's you know, it's pretty much all the same.
- 52:48SPEAKER_01: And what I will tell you, um there's the there's the rare occasion where you have somebody who is an adult and they get their acne gets better, but it just doesn't, we just can't get it, you know, completely 100% clear.
- 53:07SPEAKER_01: And that's really rare.
- 53:09SPEAKER_01: But in that case, what I typically do is I tell them to talk to their physician and to get something, and everybody can kind of keep this in your back pocket.
- 53:19SPEAKER_01: This is gonna sound crazy, but what it is, it's something called spironolactone.
- 53:24SPEAKER_01: S and Sam, P is in Peter, I-R-O-L-O-N-O-L-O-C-A-T-O-N-E.
- 53:33SPEAKER_01: So spironolactone, interestingly, is a diuretics that's been around over 50 years that's used for congestive heart failure and high blood pressure, and what it does with regard to acne is it does one thing, one thing only.
- 53:50SPEAKER_01: It kind of puts a wall up between the hormones and the 5A redexase in the follicle, it just blocks it, they can't get together.
- 54:00SPEAKER_01: And then these individuals that have really stubborn, and I I talked to, I I consulted with a doctor in in um in Texas a number of years ago, a Durham who had a five-time macutane failure, and put her on low-dose spironolactone.
- 54:14SPEAKER_01: So it's not like you're putting it on what you would do for congestive heart failure or high blood pressure.
- 54:18SPEAKER_01: We're talking about 50 to 150 milligrams a day.
- 54:22SPEAKER_01: And that person was clear, completely clear for the first time in her life.
- 54:28SPEAKER_01: Completely clear.
- 54:30SPEAKER_01: And so that's you know, something that you can kind of have in your back pocket if you can't get to complete total clearing, but most people do, they don't have to resort to that.
- 54:40SPEAKER_01: Um, I have a question.
- 54:42SPEAKER_03: I have a question because all revolving now around testosterone.
- 54:46SPEAKER_03: And I want to I want you to tell me a little bit more about that, the role that testosterone plays.
- 54:50SPEAKER_03: I know that this is, you know, um, because spirital lactone, like you just said, again, we're talking about five alpha reductase, right?
- 54:58SPEAKER_03: And but now, like, you know, I just want the audience to understand, like, on what different levels, because Jen, you're really addressing this problem or this uh thing with acne on so many different levels, which I love because we went through mental proxy, that was the oxidative burst, which is what our white blood cells go through to kill the bacteria.
- 55:17SPEAKER_03: And now we're talking about um, you know, this spirinolactone um aspect, which is an enzyme level, right?
- 55:24SPEAKER_03: Like protein level.
- 55:25SPEAKER_03: And then we have the retinol, which also is on the gene level.
- 55:28SPEAKER_03: So it's like on different tiers of biology.
- 55:31SPEAKER_03: So I really want you to talk to us about testosterone and why it's important for us to like, you know, I guess block this step, right?
- 55:38SPEAKER_01: Or multiple one of the things that's really um interesting about the spironolactone.
- 55:46SPEAKER_01: So um, you know, you don't have to wait, you don't have to have a situation where you you feel like you're failing in terms of controlling your acne completely to the level that you want to control it to complete total flaring.
- 56:00SPEAKER_01: Because what happens is um when 50% of all females, as an example, will have female pattern baldness.
- 56:08SPEAKER_01: And female pattern baldness is not where, like male pattern baldness where you get this horseshoe baldness and you lose all your hair, but it's where the hair becomes uh can become thinner, it can kind of get patchy sometimes.
- 56:20SPEAKER_01: Um, maybe your part gets wider, uh, maybe the the temple area gets a little bit less, but also there's some hair miniaturization where the hair just doesn't have the same resiliency, the same, um, each individual hair is not as thick, it's not as resilient to chemical treatments.
- 56:35SPEAKER_01: And if you look at somebody from behind, that's say 50, 55 years old or 45, and you look at them walking next to their you know 20-year-old daughter, you can tell the difference in their age just looking at their hair from a distance.
- 56:46SPEAKER_01: And so um, so the hair, female hair though, and female pattern volumes, the hair doesn't typically the follicle doesn't die, whereas men over time the follicle dies.
- 56:56SPEAKER_01: So it can be revived.
- 56:58SPEAKER_01: Now, what happens is when you take spironolactone and you're blocking the 5A reduxase from getting together with the testosterone, so they don't meet shake hands, you're also blocking the follicle.
- 57:14SPEAKER_01: And what happens is that most women find out that their hair loss stops immediately, and they actually get hair regrowth.
- 57:22SPEAKER_01: They start singing in about four to six weeks, um, and they also have less hair on their face because what happens is as you start to get hair thinning above, you grow hair more hair on the face.
- 57:35SPEAKER_01: So this has you know multiple uses, and the other thing that I want to mention about testosterone is there is a link between acne and diet.
- 57:49SPEAKER_01: Now, we didn't used to think that was the case, yeah, but we there's a couple of things.
- 57:55SPEAKER_01: One, milk causes acne.
- 57:59SPEAKER_01: We know this beyond a doubt.
- 58:00SPEAKER_01: It has been proven conclusively.
- 58:02SPEAKER_01: Now, sure, there are some people who do a lot of dairy and they don't get acne, but for the majority of us, it is a causative or an exacerbating factor.
- 58:11SPEAKER_01: This was a study that was done on 47,000 nurses.
- 58:15SPEAKER_01: It was repeated on their sons and daughters, and then two separate groups of 3,000 teenage girls and 3,000 teenage boys.
- 58:21SPEAKER_01: This study was printed in the Mosby Journal of Dermatology, which is the we call it the Mosby Blue Book.
- 58:28SPEAKER_01: It's the like the most technical dermatology journal that comes out every month.
- 58:32SPEAKER_01: And what it found is that milk causes dairy causes acne.
- 58:37SPEAKER_01: Now, not because we give hormones to cattle, because whether you buy your milk at Whole Foods or you buy it at Safeway, we milk cows when they're pregnant.
- 58:50SPEAKER_01: We want to keep the herds up, we want to keep the you know, keep the revenues up.
- 58:55SPEAKER_01: And in nature, if a cow is pregnant, it immediately will push their calf away and not allow it to nurse because it's producing steroidal hormones.
- 59:03SPEAKER_01: Go get the milk tested, it's got steroidal hormones in it.
- 59:07SPEAKER_01: So that's milk, that's ice cream, that is um whey protein.
- 59:15SPEAKER_01: You know, you drink protein because it's more concentrated in the whey protein.
- 59:19SPEAKER_01: It's protein bars.
- 59:21SPEAKER_01: Now, that's so that's one issue.
- 59:23SPEAKER_01: So dairy is a causative factor, and this is what one of the reasons we see so much in adult females.
- 59:30SPEAKER_01: Now, the second part of this is the glycemic load.
- 59:36SPEAKER_01: Now, most people know what the glycemic index is because if you look at a candy bar, you say, Oh wow, yeah, that's high on the glycemic index.
- 59:41SPEAKER_01: The glycemic load is more how how does your body deal with this food when you eat it?
- 59:49SPEAKER_01: How how much glucose has it turned into?
- 59:52SPEAKER_01: So, for example, you could have a quarter cup of sugar compared to the best piece of whole wheat bread that you can get your hands on, and the bread will turn into more sugar with the glycemic load than the sh if you just ate the quarter cup of sugar.
- 1:00:10SPEAKER_01: And so what happens is today, uh particularly in the US, so this is one of the reasons why the US has kind of been ahead of many parts of the world in terms of acne is because you know we grew up on grew up on high carb breakfast cereals, right?
- 1:00:31SPEAKER_01: We grew up on things like bagels and mac and cheese, and we have pasta, and a lot of these things might seem to be healthy, but what happens is when you ingest them, you're putting glucose into every single cell in your body.
- 1:00:48SPEAKER_01: And not only is that inflammatory, so it's it's part of the you know it it exacerbates aging and all that, but you're putting glucose into every cell in your body.
- 1:00:57SPEAKER_01: Now, what happens is is that even though you may not be a diabetic, as you age, your glucose levels oftentimes are not quite the same.
- 1:01:06SPEAKER_01: They may not be the same at 40 as they were at 20.
- 1:01:09SPEAKER_01: And so how you process how you handle that glucose, especially if you have spikes, what happens is your body produces testosterone.
- 1:01:21SPEAKER_01: If you have a high spike, if you take it down and normalize it, you're producing more testosterone.
- 1:01:27SPEAKER_01: So that's one of the things that contributes, we believe, to adult acne.
- 1:01:34SPEAKER_01: And what a lot of physicians, this is still something that's evolving, but what a lot of physicians, germs are finding, is that if they take even their teenage patients and they put them on a low carb diet or lower carb, but a low carb diet, that it has a significant effect on inflammation and pustulal count.
- 1:01:59SPEAKER_01: Now think about this.
- 1:02:00SPEAKER_01: You as a physician know that if you have a patient that has polycystic ovary syndrome, right producing a lot of testosterone.
- 1:02:08SPEAKER_01: And by the way, this isn't going to show up in a blood test, but with polycystic, it shows up in a blood test.
- 1:02:13SPEAKER_01: So you know they're producing testosterone.
- 1:02:15SPEAKER_01: What are the things that you do besides putting them on birth control or something?
- 1:02:21SPEAKER_01: Well, what do you do?
- 1:02:21SPEAKER_01: You put them on a low-carb diet, usually no more than 30 carbs a day.
- 1:02:27SPEAKER_01: Yeah, and what that does is it takes the testosterone levels down.
- 1:02:31SPEAKER_03: Yeah, and that's exactly, I love that you're saying this because we for the longest time, polysysovarian syndrome, everyone was on metformin, and they still are.
- 1:02:41SPEAKER_03: And what metformin is it's used for insulin sensitivity, ins, you know, insensitivity, sorry.
- 1:02:47SPEAKER_03: And what happens is you you have these people that are, you know, like you said, Jan, they're the the glycemic load and the able to the ability to process that glucose, right?
- 1:02:59SPEAKER_03: Over over time, which would think those are the things that I mean, I I love that you brought this up.
- 1:03:04SPEAKER_03: Yeah, that changes as we age, and that that really makes sense what you're saying with the diet, because if you can't process the same amount of sugar you could when you were 10 years old as you can when you're you know 50 or 45 or 35, you know, it changes.
- 1:03:19SPEAKER_03: And so we have to be mindful of that.
- 1:03:20SPEAKER_03: And PCOS actually, it's funny, you know, that we're talking about this.
- 1:03:24SPEAKER_03: PCOS, insulin, insensitivity syndrome, all these have been rising, you know, in the last decade.
- 1:03:30SPEAKER_03: Like the the incidence of women having it, you know, what is it?
- 1:03:33SPEAKER_03: One in ten women have PCOS now?
- 1:03:36SPEAKER_03: Like everybody has it.
- 1:03:37SPEAKER_01: Well, they also put these same women to help with the outward characteristics of the acne because a lot of times the women will go to the doctor and they don't say I have polycystic ovary, they'll say, gee, doctor, I have all this acne.
- 1:03:48SPEAKER_01: I'm growing a lot of hair on my face, I'm getting, I'm even getting hair around my my nipples.
- 1:03:54SPEAKER_01: And so one of the they get tested and it's if they find out they're polycystic.
- 1:03:59SPEAKER_01: And so one of the things they give them, besides say the metformin and they the diet and birth control and all of that is spironolactone because again, it blocks what's happening in the follicles.
- 1:04:09SPEAKER_01: So at least the acne clears up, and they're also losing a lot of hair.
- 1:04:14SPEAKER_01: So, and I'm glad you mentioned metformin because um we can talk about this sometime in more depth.
- 1:04:19SPEAKER_01: I talk a lot about nutrition and aging, but metformin is actually going through the FDA as an is an anti-aging drug.
- 1:04:26SPEAKER_01: And metformin um was discovered around 1922, it comes from the lily plant, and then in 1972 it went into use for type 2 diabetes, of which you know we're that's almost like an epidemic.
- 1:04:38SPEAKER_01: And um, it's an interesting drug because it's been tested out in the marketplace.
- 1:04:43SPEAKER_01: I mean, it's been on millions and millions of people.
- 1:04:47SPEAKER_01: So we know what it does, and very simply, it just works with an enzyme in the liver and it just keeps the liver from dumping too much glucose.
- 1:04:54SPEAKER_01: If you take it, it works.
- 1:04:56SPEAKER_01: If you stop taking it, it's not like there's some type of a backlash or something, it just stops working.
- 1:05:01SPEAKER_01: Um, there's relative, really, relatively no side effects with it.
- 1:05:05SPEAKER_01: And they give it to teenagers, they give it to for people for all kinds of things, but every researcher that I know, Harvard, Yale, all the ones that are on the cutting edge of anti-aging, they all take metformin and they're not diabetic.
- 1:05:20SPEAKER_01: I take metformin.
- 1:05:21SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I do.
- 1:05:23SPEAKER_01: Um, I think that it does have a really nice effect.
- 1:05:26SPEAKER_01: Not only does it do they know they've been able to demonstrate that it has an effect on helping to prevent Alzheimer's, heart disease, uh, certain types of cancer, um, you know, a lot of inflammatory aging issues because it just keeps glucose from sticking to every cell in your body, including your collagen.
- 1:05:45SPEAKER_01: Your 80% of your dermis is collagen.
- 1:05:48SPEAKER_01: And so it has an effect on skin, it has an effect on cognitive function, it has an effect on so many things.
- 1:05:53SPEAKER_01: But the interesting thing about it is the reason that it also is so intriguing.
- 1:06:00SPEAKER_01: It was that in one study, I think it was on 14,000 individuals who were elderly and they were type two diabetic and they weren't necessarily taking good care of themselves.
- 1:06:10SPEAKER_01: They were on metformin, but they were, you know, kind of couch potatoes and not necessarily the greatest diet, but they lived longer.
- 1:06:18SPEAKER_01: They lived longer than people like me who really try to take care of myself.
- 1:06:22SPEAKER_01: I think it was like three to four years or so.
- 1:06:25SPEAKER_01: And it's supposedly because metformin releases tiny little amounts of free radicals into cells.
- 1:06:32SPEAKER_01: It's just enough of a stressor that turns on certain sertoons, which are anti-aging genes.
- 1:06:37SPEAKER_01: So it's really, really, really intriguing.
- 1:06:41SPEAKER_01: But what this all points to is that you've got to keep those that those glucose levels down.
- 1:06:49SPEAKER_01: And it all points toward low-carb diets.
- 1:06:53SPEAKER_03: Yeah, yeah.
- 1:06:54SPEAKER_03: No, I love I completely agree.
- 1:06:56SPEAKER_03: And I, you know, I know the research is it's it's there and it's it's a lot of it.
- 1:07:01SPEAKER_03: You know, metformin has been around, like you said, and you know, it's very interesting that we are now looking at diet so closely because the diet, I mean, if you think about it, you know, it makes sense, Jen.
- 1:07:13SPEAKER_03: Like everything you said.
- 1:07:14SPEAKER_03: I mean, you look at like, you know, ancient cultures, right?
- 1:07:17SPEAKER_03: Like Eastern cultures, people lived off their land.
- 1:07:19SPEAKER_03: They ate vegetables, you know, they ate like simple foods.
- 1:07:23SPEAKER_03: And then you look at Western civilizations and cities and just look at the kind of different pathologies that they, you know, still are dealing with.
- 1:07:30SPEAKER_03: I mean, diabetes and you know, these kind of like obesity-related things are so much more prevalent in the West.
- 1:07:35SPEAKER_03: And it's it is our diet.
- 1:07:37SPEAKER_03: So I I completely, I completely see the link.
- 1:07:39SPEAKER_03: And I it's that's really exciting though about metformin.
- 1:07:42SPEAKER_03: I didn't know that it was being so heavily studied as a anti- Yeah.
- 1:07:46SPEAKER_01: It it is, and you know, um anthropological nutrition is really fascinating, and it's kind of where they go back and they look at even they can study the bones of cavemet, and they can actually, by looking at the inside of the bones, they can tell pretty much what they ate, you know, how much of this was were they eating elk or they were eating berries, and and what they found is that when man got to the point where we were farming, and it wasn't quite as nomadic because you could instead of having to go where there were animals that you could kill and eat, you could grow more grains and you could grow more vegetables and things like that.
- 1:08:28SPEAKER_01: But that was the first time they started seeing that the size of the jaw changed, they started seeing crooked teeth, and they started seeing a lot of changes that were not present prior to that.
- 1:08:42SPEAKER_01: And so, you know, I I think nutrition is one of the last great frontiers in terms of determining how it really affects um you know how we age.
- 1:08:54SPEAKER_01: And with that said, um, there's just a lot of research going on into how we can um turn on serotonins, these anti-aging genes, and also um even things like intermittent fasting, which they're finding, you know, some good research that shows that that can also have a very beneficial effect.
- 1:09:15SPEAKER_03: Right, right.
- 1:09:16SPEAKER_03: Again, with the glucose load, it's all all around that glucose load, the yeah, you know, what you were saying.
- 1:09:21SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 1:09:22SPEAKER_03: I mean, you know, it it's very interesting.
- 1:09:24SPEAKER_03: And and I loved, you know, this was the first episode, and I love that we discussed so much um, you know, about acne and about um everything that has to do with it.
- 1:09:33SPEAKER_03: And you know, such a well-pression.
- 1:09:36SPEAKER_03: So um this was really great.
- 1:09:38SPEAKER_03: I I loved it.
- 1:09:39SPEAKER_03: Thank you so much.
- 1:09:40SPEAKER_01: It's been a lot of fun.
- 1:09:41SPEAKER_01: I really enjoyed it.
- 1:09:43SPEAKER_01: Um, you know, thank you so much for for letting me just kind of talk on and on, but it's something that I love talking about.
- 1:09:50SPEAKER_01: And gosh, I hope we get to do it again.
- 1:09:53SPEAKER_03: Absolutely.
- 1:09:53SPEAKER_03: No, I'm really looking forward, and everyone listening, we're going to have um a few episodes in this um masterclass.
- 1:10:00SPEAKER_03: So stay tuned for everything that's upcoming.
- 1:10:03SPEAKER_03: And if you have any questions or if this conversation really kind of sparked your interest about anything that Jan brought up or that was discussed, please leave um comments in our comment section on Instagram or any of our social platforms.
- 1:10:15SPEAKER_03: I will um definitely collect them and ask um, you know, ask Jen next time when we speak.
- 1:10:21SPEAKER_03: But thank you so much for tuning in and um we'll be back again with part two.
- 1:10:25SPEAKER_01: Uh well, thank you and everybody who has listened.
- 1:10:29SPEAKER_01: I thank you so much because I wouldn't be here without you.
- 1:10:31SPEAKER_01: So bye, Ekta.
- 1:10:33SPEAKER_01: Bye, thank you, Jan.
- 1:10:35SPEAKER_01: Uh-huh.
- 1:10:36SPEAKER_03: Hey guys, so I hope you love that episode.
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