Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / The Book of Clarence with Costume Designer, Antoinette Messam
Transcript
- 0:11My hands were like this, Oh my gosh, I'm going to take out the
- 0:16actor before the scene and I'm getting James texting me.
- 0:21Just put him in something else and I'm like, he said no, yeah.
- 0:28You come here and tell him. Hello and welcome to the Art of
- 0:44Costume podcast. I'm Elizabeth Joy Glass.
- 0:46And I'm Spencer Williams. Hello, Elizabeth.
- 0:50Hey, Spencer, How's it going? It's going.
- 0:54It is. The sun is shining, the
- 0:57allergies are flowing. It sets over to you again.
- 1:02I just like, I love that the sun's out.
- 1:05I love that the sun's out. I like it's brings me like so
- 1:09much joy and energy. But then, like, I step outside
- 1:13my house and I'm like, no, not the pollen.
- 1:19Not again. It's dangerous out here.
- 1:22We just had in in California or Los Angeles, we have these
- 1:25things called the Santa Ana winds.
- 1:28I don't know. I don't understand.
- 1:29Yeah, I remember. Those I don't understand the
- 1:32science, so don't ask me. But occasionally this, like,
- 1:35really horrible windstorm comes through, and we just had it two
- 1:39days ago. It literally blew the roof off
- 1:42of my garage. That's how intense it was.
- 1:44And I didn't know roofs could come off in just one piece like
- 1:48that. Yeah, it did.
- 1:50Have you never seen like, video of a tornado?
- 1:54But I mean, I saw a twister before.
- 1:56I mean but. Well, I hope.
- 2:02I hope your roof is returned soon.
- 2:05Yeah, it'll work itself out, but you know, taking off the allergy
- 2:09meds, staying home, you know it's just it's dangerous
- 2:13outside. For us people with allergies,
- 2:15this is the the dangerous time. But I also finished school this
- 2:22week. I'm officially done with that
- 2:25degree I was working on. Yeah, congratulations.
- 2:29How does it feel to have your your bachelor's to join the
- 2:32club? Feels good.
- 2:34It's more like I think the best part so far.
- 2:37I finally kicked in this morning when I got to sit in my bed and
- 2:40I got to just play Dream Light Valley and not feel guilty about
- 2:43it. You know, like Donald Duck's
- 2:45giving me like, missions to do, like, go pick up this fish and
- 2:49go do that. And I finally was like, oh, I
- 2:51could actually do this and not feel guilty about the three
- 2:54essays I need, right? Doesn't it?
- 2:57Doesn't it feel? Nice.
- 2:58Yeah, it feels nice. Got a lot done.
- 3:00So yeah, I'm really, I'm really stoked about.
- 3:02I'm excited and I'm thankful to you and Daniel for sticking by
- 3:07me with my chaotic deadlines as I try to figure how to be a full
- 3:11time student while running the podcast and the blog at the same
- 3:15time. So I'm stoked I'm free.
- 3:18You're free. What about you?
- 3:21How's the How's the Music Hall going?
- 3:24Oh, it's it's going. It's just kind of like last week
- 3:30I kind of really sat down and I was like, OK, I need to do like
- 3:32XYZ. And I'm like, oh, and once you
- 3:35realize you need to do XYZ, you're also like, oh, I need to
- 3:38do this and this and this so that I can do XYZ And then I
- 3:43have to do these other five things.
- 3:45And I was like, it's gonna be fine.
- 3:47It's gonna be great. You're telling me behind the
- 3:49scenes that you're sewing corsets right now?
- 3:51Yeah, I'm selling corsets right now, man, 'cause I picked out
- 3:55we're doing like a 18th century, like kind of like rococo theme
- 3:59for Cinderella. And I was like, OK, here are the
- 4:03dresses I want da, da, da, like figuring out what I need for
- 4:07those. And I was like, Oh my gosh, I
- 4:09need to, I need to get corsets and then course, it's our
- 4:12expensive. And I'm working in a budget.
- 4:14So I'm like, well, I guess I'll just have to make them 'cause
- 4:17that's significantly cheaper. So it's it's going well, it's
- 4:21going great. Sounds awesome.
- 4:24Glad everything's working out. Me too.
- 4:26Oh my gosh. It's good to see you well, We
- 4:33have a great episode. We have a lot of a lot to get
- 4:36to. So what do we watch this week?
- 4:38So excited, this week we watched the book of Clarence.
- 4:42Yeah, I'm excited. It was.
- 4:44It was a great movie. I I think I said in our last
- 4:47episode, I didn't know what to expect.
- 4:50Typically, like anything that I feel like has any sort of like
- 4:53religious undertones, I'm usually not like super thrilled
- 4:57about it. And I feel like this film just
- 5:01like, really was such a pleasant surprise because it really
- 5:04wasn't just that. It really had a lot of different
- 5:07themes, a lot of great fun, color, costumes, an incredible
- 5:13cast. The music is amazing.
- 5:15I loved everything about it, honestly.
- 5:18I did too. I did too.
- 5:19I was. I was very interested to see,
- 5:22'cause I was like, OK, they're clearly, like, working around
- 5:25like Jesus's story as well. Like, I was really interested to
- 5:29see what they were gonna like, do with this.
- 5:32And it was just, it was so pleasant and so, like, it was
- 5:36like a fresh take on. So, like, so many Bible stories
- 5:42that have been played out again and again, you're like, oh, I
- 5:44like this. Right.
- 5:46Also it's done in like a pre contemporary, contemporary way
- 5:49where even someone like me was able to understand it.
- 5:52Honestly, I was like, Oh well, if we would have explained to me
- 5:56like this, I would have got it more.
- 6:00Like I get it now. Yeah, such a good film.
- 6:05But before we get into it, perhaps I'll give us a little
- 6:08summary. Yes, give us a summary Spencer
- 6:12all. Right, and I'm reading it for
- 6:14the first time too. So the book of Clarence, a down
- 6:18on his luck man struggles to find a better life for his
- 6:21family while fighting the free himself of debt.
- 6:24Captivated by the power and glory of the rising Messiah, he
- 6:28risked everything to carve his own path to a divine life,
- 6:32ultimately discovering that the redemptive power of belief may
- 6:35be his only way out. And that is the book of
- 6:38Clarence. That is the book of Clarence.
- 6:41If you haven't seen it, go watch it.
- 6:43It's a great. It's a great movie.
- 6:45Where did you say you streamed it?
- 6:48Amazon, you do still have to buy it.
- 6:52It's it's not free to stream anywhere, but it's worth it.
- 6:55It's very much worth it. And I admit I intended to see
- 6:58this in theaters, 'cause I was really excited when I saw the
- 7:01trailer and it it was in and out of the theaters before I could
- 7:05like get my head around, like going outside to go see it.
- 7:10Yeah, outside bad sounds good. So.
- 7:12Yeah, it was the middle of the winter.
- 7:15Outside was bad. So yeah, definitely worth.
- 7:20It's worth it to to see this movie.
- 7:24I am so excited to go behind the costumes we have director and
- 7:28writer James Samuel and costume designer Antoinette Messam.
- 7:33You will know her work from Orphan Creed Colossal, Hold the
- 7:39Dark, The Harder They Fall, Secret Headquarters and right
- 7:45now on Netflix Lift. Yeah, it's that's a good one.
- 7:49I just watched that the other day, right before we prepared
- 7:52for this episode of Kevin Hart. It's it's quite funny.
- 7:56I love the harder They Fall. That's such a great movie.
- 8:01And I mean, I don't know if we've ever talked about it, but
- 8:03I love Orphan. That's one of my favorite horror
- 8:06movies. That is so creepy.
- 8:07Have you never seen Orphan? No, I haven't.
- 8:11That's so spooky. I didn't start watching scary
- 8:15movies till I was in college, so most of the ones I've seen I saw
- 8:18with y'all. My bad.
- 8:20Oh man. Well Spencer, I am very, very
- 8:28excited to hear your interview with Antoinette.
- 8:32I'm so excited. Yeah, I'm so excited to say that
- 8:35Antoinette Messam came by to talk about her work on the book
- 8:39of Clarence and it was such a great conversation.
- 8:42I've known Antoinette for a little while now, but this was
- 8:45our first time really getting to sit down and actually talk about
- 8:48her work and her career, 'cause we usually run into each other
- 8:51at parties. So this is our first time
- 8:54actually like sitting down and getting to know each other and
- 8:57talk about her work. So yeah, I'm very excited for
- 8:59you all to listen. We really get into great detail
- 9:03about the book of Clarence. We also did talk about her
- 9:06recent film on Netflix, Lyft that will be published on Art of
- 9:11Costume website. So you can all go and read that
- 9:13part of the interview as well just for the sake of time.
- 9:17So enjoy the interview, and after the interview, come back
- 9:21so Elizabeth and I can play our favorite game.
- 9:24Yes, the. I am so excited to introduce my
- 9:52friend, costume designer Antoinette Mezam.
- 9:55Hey. How are you?
- 9:57Hey, I'm OK. You're busy, booked and busy.
- 10:03Yeah, a little. Just a little, as we were just
- 10:06saying. A lot of movies in my head right
- 10:09now, but. As I said behind the scenes, I'm
- 10:12excited to have this time with you because I feel like we're
- 10:14always in similar spaces, but I never really get to, you know,
- 10:18get to know you as the designer. So you've had such a successful
- 10:22career, not just in costume but also in fashion.
- 10:25So I just want to know a little bit more about like your
- 10:26background, because I hear about this fashion background of
- 10:30Antoinette, like I want to hear about that too.
- 10:34I know. It's so interesting that you
- 10:35mentioned that I was speaking to a commercial production house in
- 10:41Toronto who was, you know, reached out to congratulate me
- 10:44on Lift 'cause they just saw it and they loved it.
- 10:48And I'm like, you guys stopped booking me and like, oh, you
- 10:51still do commercials and music videos?
- 10:53Hell yeah. You know, because I I have to
- 10:58give props to. That's that part of my life.
- 11:02It really, I think, helped me set the base for where I am now.
- 11:09I I mean, a lot of people really separate the stylist from the
- 11:17costume designer, but there's many, many layers of styling and
- 11:21different lanes you could be in styling.
- 11:23And I love the one I was in. I mean, I started.
- 11:27I've always loved clothes, period.
- 11:29You know, I grew up in it. Whether I wanted to be in it or
- 11:33not. It was in my life, my between my
- 11:35mother and my grandfather, there was fabrics and clothes.
- 11:38And my mother's a beautiful custom.
- 11:42She makes beautiful clothes still to safe.
- 11:44We allow her to sew. But I and I modeled as a kid.
- 11:50But what I loved was what the people who were I was working
- 11:56for was doing, you know? And I remember working for
- 12:04someone who I work with now and have worked with for many years.
- 12:08Izzy Camilleri. I was young.
- 12:09I was still modelling and I assisted a a designer now
- 12:15Deborah Ferguson when she's still in Toronto on a fashion
- 12:20show and I just Deborah was so creative.
- 12:23She used to get the coolest gigs back then and I just loved how
- 12:27she was styling the clothes, dressing the models as before
- 12:31they went out to the runway. I'm like, I want to do that.
- 12:36And of course, it went from doing some of that to then
- 12:41helping at a production company that, God bless them, they gave
- 12:45me. The biggest start was Revolver
- 12:48Films that did a lot of big music videos back in the early,
- 12:52late 80s, early 90s. I mean, I did Florida's Biggest
- 12:57Monday. I'm probably pronouncing her
- 12:59name. Wrong her.
- 13:01It's pretty good so. Yeah, her first music video in
- 13:05Toronto and it Blue Rodeo, which is a Canadian band that
- 13:09Canadians know. But back then, that was a that
- 13:13was my first job and it was just by fluke that I got it.
- 13:17But even then Florida's style was very goth, very creative,
- 13:23very. You know, you've seen what she's
- 13:25done with Christina Aguilera and it's it's another it's
- 13:30otherworldly, so bring that down a little smaller.
- 13:34And I was dressing a child in ratty clothes.
- 13:37But it was a Canadian fashion piece, you know what I mean?
- 13:41But I was. Breaking it down on set.
- 13:44And I just loved it. And I think if you're asking me,
- 13:48you know, the early days there was fashion involved, but I
- 13:52also, what I loved about it was creating things within fashion,
- 13:58you know, I'll never forget this.
- 14:01I was doing a shoot with one of my model friends, 'cause I was
- 14:05lucky to have friends who I could call in to do creative
- 14:07stuff. And of dear friends.
- 14:09Charmaine was in town from Paris and Charmaine was working with
- 14:14Patrick Kelly and Asadina Laia, but she was my friend so she did
- 14:21this for me. And the make up artist is like,
- 14:25we have Charmaine Bernard and you're putting her in doilies.
- 14:30I literally tapped with a, you know, thread doilies, placing
- 14:34them on her body and it was black and white and all you saw
- 14:37is her Ebony skin and the doilies, the Lacy doilies.
- 14:41And he's like bitch, I was expecting Gucci.
- 14:46I've never forgotten that. And I felt so bad at the time
- 14:50that I wasted this incredible makeup artist's time because I
- 14:54recognize the business. It would have sold for us both
- 14:57better if she was in high end fashion, but that's not what
- 15:03interested me. I just loved her tone, her
- 15:06color, her face, and I just wanted to put her in do
- 15:09something texture, you know? Yeah, and it's all about like
- 15:13the trajectory, though. Like, we all go through these
- 15:15stories in life to end up getting us to where we're
- 15:17supposed to be now too. So, I mean, you know, it's a
- 15:21part of the creative process that made you the costume
- 15:24designer you are today too. So with that, I'm so with that,
- 15:31we have a ton of costumes to talk about.
- 15:34So let's start with the book of Clarence.
- 15:36And you know, I, you and I already talked about it, but I
- 15:40just have to give you your flowers again.
- 15:42I thought this was such a brilliant film, the colors, the
- 15:45music, the sets and of course the costumes.
- 15:48So to begin, what drew you to the book of Clarence?
- 15:52James Samuel. And he didn't even.
- 15:58It wasn't even draw me. It was like, Are you ready?
- 16:00We're going. Let's go.
- 16:03I. Kind of had a feeling.
- 16:05So I mean, to my next question then you worked with James
- 16:07Samuel on The Harder They Fall as well.
- 16:09So tell me a little bit about the collaboration between you
- 16:12two, 'cause it sounds very intimate, actually.
- 16:15You know, when I first met James, it was he was in London
- 16:22and it was via Zoom. So we didn't get to meet in
- 16:24person. And I was just honored to even
- 16:28have the opportunity to interview for this film, 'cause
- 16:31I heard some of the names that had gone before.
- 16:33And I'm like, wow, OK, I'll take that meeting.
- 16:37Yes. And you know it.
- 16:39I read the script and it was obviously period.
- 16:44So you instinctively think you're going to go down the lane
- 16:48of just doing peered reference research, which I did, But then
- 16:53also looked at who was making this movie and I did my research
- 16:56on them. And James did some of his own
- 17:00creative things, videos and a short film.
- 17:04And even though some of it was period and character driven,
- 17:07they were all very fashion forward and very he loves
- 17:11clothes. OK, One of our first in person
- 17:15meetings in London, in Toronto, in no where were we LA was
- 17:19walking along Melrose and looking at clothes and going to
- 17:23Fred Siegel and shopping for him together.
- 17:25He was, he just popping and shopping.
- 17:27We were going for a coffee and we ended up shopping in Fred's.
- 17:30He. Ended up working on this coffee.
- 17:32Yeah, I'm getting to know each other.
- 17:35And I realized, so when I did you know, for that interview, I
- 17:40just to test the waters, I dropped in a few fashion images
- 17:45and then he came back and he wanted more.
- 17:48So what I found is he gravitated to references that were
- 17:53inspiration as compared to literal.
- 17:57And he wasn't making a literal movie.
- 17:58His exact words was I'm not making no Dusty Dirty Cowboy
- 18:02movie, Antoinette. He is, his background is
- 18:05Nigerian, growing up in London amongst Jamaicans and other
- 18:11Caribbean islands. So as soon as he said that and I
- 18:14responded to him in by Jamaican dialect, he's like you're a
- 18:20Yardie, Oh my God. Then the whole tone of the
- 18:24conversation changed and we bonded on music.
- 18:28He started playing me songs and music that he was going to have
- 18:31in the film that were music that I grew up on, you know?
- 18:36And so that was amazing that we connected first with music and
- 18:42then with fashion and how then are we going to incorporate this
- 18:48into the movie? And color is so important to
- 18:50James. We used to have butt heads.
- 18:53And when I say that, it's like Antoinette, where's the color?
- 18:57And I'm like, it's coming, James, because in a fitting,
- 19:03he's just seeing someone look dark with maybe a pop of color
- 19:07but not enough color. He wanted color.
- 19:10That was scripted that Idris was going to be in the red jacket,
- 19:15but that's a whole other story in the red jacket.
- 19:18So I didn't have a choice in putting Idris in the red jacket.
- 19:22And then obviously his favorite color is blue, so let's put
- 19:27Virginia in blue. But color was his life.
- 19:30He loved color and color and music, but wasn't until the Cass
- 19:35got on the set and he saw how the colors worked with the set.
- 19:40Then he got it right it. Works with everything.
- 19:43Yeah. So I think, I mean, it was tough
- 19:47when we went because of COVID. So even though we started with
- 19:50James coming over to my shop at Western and hanging out and
- 19:55calling the actors and showing them the illustrations and some
- 19:58of the clothes, that was amazing.
- 20:01And then COVID happened. And then I he was like this from
- 20:05me. So other than text and video, I
- 20:08barely got to see him. But I got it.
- 20:12I got and got his style and that was the hardest line.
- 20:17Just walking that walk of the bass silhouette and how much the
- 20:24studio wanted fashion they had setting up their store and how
- 20:28much. I know James and Jay-Z were
- 20:32interested in having fashion influences but still not making
- 20:36it jarring for me as a costume designer.
- 20:40That was my biggest challenge, and I felt there's places I felt
- 20:44I hit it on the nose and it worked.
- 20:46And then there's other places where I still cringe when I see
- 20:49it. I mean, that's normal.
- 20:52I hear that all the time. Yeah, but but that just to
- 20:56answer your question, we bonded there and then he dropped me
- 21:01into Italy and left me to my it's like make it happen.
- 21:07Right. Well, so the book of Clarence
- 21:10tells stories through the eyes of people of color in a biblical
- 21:13setting. So what sources of inspiration
- 21:16did he draw from to reimagine and create these costumes for
- 21:21familiar figures? But it really is your all own
- 21:24take on these figures that you know people are familiar with.
- 21:29I wish I could tell you there was a plan and there was a time.
- 21:32Sometimes, no plan's the best plan.
- 21:34Well, that's what happened and I just, I'm just, I say thank you
- 21:38every day that it all fell into place and worked.
- 21:42When I got the call, I was in Jamaican.
- 21:44We were 12 weeks out and I still had to get back to first Toronto
- 21:49to drop off my parents. It's like we're going home,
- 21:52let's go home backwards. But also to get back to LA, meet
- 21:59with James, find out what it what is it we're doing?
- 22:02You know, we the trigger was pulled very quickly on this film
- 22:06because of Benedict's availability.
- 22:11So when I got to Italy, we're like 8 weeks out.
- 22:15Oh my. Gosh, not going to lie.
- 22:16I was panicking and you know, crewing setting up.
- 22:21We prepped in Rome. And so in terms of finding that
- 22:27research, I mean, I spend a couple of hours with James just
- 22:31to get an idea of what are we making.
- 22:34You know, I read the script, but knowing who I'm working with,
- 22:37what music are you doing, guy? Let's talk about the mood.
- 22:41Yeah, it's not as easy as reading the script.
- 22:43No part of the fall. He literally had meet the songs
- 22:48written into the script lines. So you knew the lead up to to
- 22:53what he was thinking. And that's why we bonded because
- 22:56all those songs were early Jamaican reggae songs by Jimmy
- 23:02Cliff. And, you know, people like you.
- 23:04But there were none of those linear notes in the new script.
- 23:07So I I needed a tone. What was the tone?
- 23:11And then we're going to Matira, which is so beautiful.
- 23:17So what was important to me is we're making a black film and
- 23:21when I say black film, the characters in the film that are
- 23:24driving this story are black in 33 AD.
- 23:30How did they get there? My first sort of reason is just
- 23:35trying to find out the facts, the the, the, you know what,
- 23:41what was truth, what was what, what I what would I have to
- 23:44reimagine? What would I have to create out
- 23:50of? Well, there's nothing that say
- 23:51didn't exist, but the fact is it did exist.
- 23:55We did find research, especially in in tombs, historical tombs.
- 24:02I even saw that in the museums in Italy and took beautiful
- 24:05references once I got there. But before that deep dive in and
- 24:10seeing that there were African Jews who were in Israel and
- 24:17Jerusalem, there were Arab and Arabs who came through from the
- 24:25North Coast along the the trade routes.
- 24:28So there's there's there was a migration to that part of the
- 24:32world that was not just who we see that is documented that
- 24:37there's enough. There's enough scholars who have
- 24:39done the research and I've got to give a shout out to Western
- 24:43costume research for as I'm literally packing and packing.
- 24:48My kid is doing helping me with research running.
- 24:51I had one day to get over there and spent the day looking at you
- 24:58know Michael Douglas's costume and Spartacus and the actual
- 25:03touching it, you know. And then they had already
- 25:07started to pull books and and reference for me for me to weed
- 25:10through and they were the two of them were actually helping me as
- 25:15I'm doing. Like it was tag teaming because
- 25:18I literally had the date hit it on a plane the next day.
- 25:22But I have to say, thank you Costume research.
- 25:25Who I. Shout out.
- 25:27Yeah, shout out that people realize the amazing resource we
- 25:31have at Western Costumes in their research.
- 25:34Wow. I mean that that's it's such a,
- 25:36like you said, it's a long time ago and but there's still so
- 25:40much research out there. If you're able to look for it
- 25:42and really inspired the story, which you know it's, it came out
- 25:46quite beautifully. And as we mentioned earlier,
- 25:50James Samuel's a big fan of color and I feel like color
- 25:53played a huge role in the book of Clarence.
- 25:56So how did you use colors to define the character's style
- 26:00while also communicating their status in society, I felt.
- 26:05Wow. You know, that was hard.
- 26:10Harder than the hard than the harder they fall.
- 26:15It was hard because until I got to Materia, we prepped in Rome,
- 26:22which all those incredible rental houses are to rally
- 26:25Ferrani, Peruzzi and shout out to Paris, who shipped stuff in
- 26:32for us. I didn't really.
- 26:37It didn't really click. I mean, obviously I landed in
- 26:40Rome. The first thing I did is just
- 26:42knowing the amount of background.
- 26:44I started pulling what was available to me.
- 26:47And I'm literally on the phone with James saying, look,
- 26:51scanning, this is a tone. These are And he's like OK, but
- 26:55what about what about the light colors The beige is the brown
- 26:59you know because he he loved Jesus of Nazareth and that sort
- 27:02of neutral vibe which is very different from the color he way
- 27:07he usually goes to. So that would kind of threw me
- 27:10off and I'm like I thought this man wanted color.
- 27:17Wait a second. I got to I got to Matera I went
- 27:21to meet with him 'cause we were prepping in Rome but they were
- 27:25in Matera which is like 4 hours drive away a little further
- 27:29north and or an hour flight. So I went in to meet him and
- 27:33spent the weekend and I landed on Plymouth.
- 27:37It's like, oh, walking around and seeing the sand tones, the
- 27:45the natural, then the blue sky. It was a contrast of just
- 27:51everything being so organically neutral, like the word tan and
- 27:58beiges and creams. And I'm like, I How do I make it
- 28:03that these people don't jar? They're not jarring.
- 28:06There's not the contrast is so harsh.
- 28:11But I still have color, you know.
- 28:13And one of the things we had decided early on when we I first
- 28:17met with him in LA is Italians are known for making beautiful
- 28:21biblical movies, you know, And there is a lot of them that have
- 28:27a lot of what I call haberdashery, you know, a lot of
- 28:33bells and whistles, a lot of trim, lot of beading layers,
- 28:38colors, beautiful fabrics. But the script was so gritty,
- 28:44you know it was. So these guys are down on their
- 28:47luck, they're hustlers. If they were now and living in
- 28:51an urban area, it'd be a little swag, a little, you know, it
- 28:55would be in high fashion. They wouldn't have a lot of
- 28:59things. But cause also I had to show the
- 29:02progression. So being in Matera, it started
- 29:06to click of how I can use that. That was my background, that was
- 29:11my location. All the casts were up against
- 29:15these neutral tones. So having it be complimentary
- 29:19and then the pops of color and also too I mean the beggar, that
- 29:26was the first big challenge. How do I have this beggar read?
- 29:32And I just felt it was important to have him almost that he could
- 29:36blend into the walls, into the ground, into the scenery and not
- 29:42be seen because he doesn't anyone to see him.
- 29:45Yeah, wow. So with that, I was struck by
- 29:49the breakdown of these costumes, as well as, as we mentioned, the
- 29:53fabrics and the textures, which really brought a feeling of
- 29:55authenticity to it. Like you just mentioned with the
- 29:58beggar just he was able to blend in with the crowd.
- 30:02So tell me a little bit more about just your use of fabrics,
- 30:05textiles and maybe the breakdown process.
- 30:09Breakdown is my life. It's my favorite.
- 30:11I could talk about forever. Yeah, any area.
- 30:15I'm not a strong sewer and I'm considering who my family is.
- 30:20I just didn't have the patience. I love playing in the age of
- 30:25dire shop, you know, and showing and showing by doing what I'm
- 30:31looking for, the under understanding how to to speak
- 30:35their language I think is important, right?
- 30:38I almost, believe it or not, had a hard time finding the fabrics
- 30:43I was looking for immediately. In Italy it took a minute, and
- 30:49it took a minute for the love language of fabric, love
- 30:53language to to everybody to be on the same page.
- 30:56But I needed organic bat textiles that were dyable
- 31:00because I have to dye the tones I needed especially for the lead
- 31:05actors. And we built all the lead actors
- 31:08clothes. All the most of the the cast
- 31:13principal clothes were made in house.
- 31:16I had some of the most incredible cutters and stitchers
- 31:19like it was a procession. It's like Muslim fitting.
- 31:23Continue costume to aging. Back to the Stitchers.
- 31:27You know it. Was a factory lineup.
- 31:30It was a factory lineup shout out to my Italian crew.
- 31:34Amazing craftspeople. Amazing patience with
- 31:38Antoinette, with our family. By the by the end we were all in
- 31:45it together and it I'm I'm so blessed to have had them.
- 31:48But it was a procession and I I just gave him a shout out on
- 31:53Instagram. Augusto, who was my head aged
- 31:58Dyer, used to work for Ferrani and he used textiles for
- 32:03Ferrani. I didn't know that when I hired
- 32:06him. Didn't find that out until I
- 32:09brought some samples of textiles that I loved the dyes and the
- 32:14layering of dyeing. And you know how they
- 32:17incorporated natural, organic materials into it?
- 32:20Like straw, like leaves, You know, stuff like that.
- 32:24And he's like, I made it. OK.
- 32:31All right. So that was that was a check.
- 32:36For me. And yeah, so there was, it was
- 32:39just really great having not only their expertise, I mean
- 32:45they've all done biblical over and over again.
- 32:47So having their expertise to show me different ways we could
- 32:52do things or cheat things And our biggest challenge aside from
- 32:59having the look be somewhat true to the period is organic.
- 33:06If that makes sense. Because as you say each it's
- 33:11almost like the the harder they fall.
- 33:13I had different cities within this movie, different areas that
- 33:18show different class structure. And one of the things that I
- 33:21needed to introduce because we had Romans, but we only had
- 33:26Romans really in uniform except for when we came to that trial,
- 33:31right. And I needed to make how do I
- 33:36influence the wealthy in this town so that they don't all look
- 33:41the same. So I had to bring elements of
- 33:44Rome. So you saw a little bit of it
- 33:47when Rome attire which would have been Greek influence to
- 33:55that was the elite. That was a class structure.
- 33:57So bringing some of that into, say, Jedediah's harem, if you
- 34:02want to call it his football, his club, really.
- 34:06Club. And a men's club and seeing
- 34:12elements so that I could show the diverse class structures.
- 34:17You know, you see the cast, Clarence and Elijah walking in
- 34:23and they obviously look very different than the people who
- 34:26are in that setting. Yeah, and that's the same with
- 34:30with the beggar. Who was the beggar before he
- 34:34became destitute? Maybe he was Roman and fell on
- 34:38hard times. I had to figure something out.
- 34:41How do I What kind of costume am I going to give this guy that
- 34:44differentiates him a little bit from the others, you know?
- 34:49Well, you really had to think of a lot of different cultures and
- 34:53aspirations, and that's a lot. As I was running, it was crazy
- 34:58and that's why I I I keep saying it over and over again.
- 35:01The every job is a learning experience and as I'm we're
- 35:07literally figuring this out as we're going.
- 35:10And my Italian. My first Italian cutter.
- 35:13I started one and then the second one joined me.
- 35:16Couldn't speak a word of English to me, so we had an interpreter
- 35:20with my junior design assistant. Best position in the world with
- 35:25us. Jessica and she would help, but
- 35:27what we had in common is what we were doing.
- 35:31She allowed me to drape on the fabric.
- 35:34I want to say allow, meaning just seeing where I was going
- 35:38because I needed to drape the fabric to show her so that we
- 35:42could workshop it, you know, so the two of us, I have a picture
- 35:46of the two of us on this, the ground wrapping and figuring the
- 35:50fabric out and which one and yeah, so it it it was a work in
- 35:55progress. We literally there wasn't time
- 35:58to sit down and do research and development.
- 36:00We did it on the fly. Right, man, that's that's a lot
- 36:05what I loved about this film. I I'm not much of A jewelry
- 36:09person, but I feel like you converted me.
- 36:11For example, Teyana Taylor, who played Mary Magdalene, I was
- 36:15obsessed with just all the gold accent jewelry on her.
- 36:18So how did the gold accents play a part in your process?
- 36:22Wow. Well, let's talk about that
- 36:25specific piece for just a second.
- 36:28It's so good. Gave me a heart attack.
- 36:32That was one of the James gave me a few reference images when
- 36:35we met in LA for that brief moment.
- 36:41And one of them was a beautiful image of three African women
- 36:46from afar, which is northern. And they had these elaborate
- 36:52jeweled beating gold around the around the Their face was
- 36:58covered in it and their head and I looked at him.
- 37:01I'm like, that's not a period picture.
- 37:08I want Lady Madeleine. She's driving a chariot.
- 37:17Wait a minute, this is not adding up.
- 37:21Yeah. And he's like, yeah, and I'm
- 37:25like, OK, in other words, make it happen, Internet.
- 37:31So that was the challenge. And I I went to, I did the
- 37:39research, obviously, you know, deep diving.
- 37:43Where did this image come from? And that's how I recognize,
- 37:46realized that they came from afar, but not just afar, across
- 37:52Northern Africa, these women as far back as 1000 AD that I could
- 37:57find, I couldn't find anything further than that.
- 38:00That wasn't a painting. And you could see in the
- 38:03paintings that they were jewel, but not to that style.
- 38:07So OK, at least I know it. It's not just today it goes
- 38:13back. The materials may have changed,
- 38:16but the style was the same. So I then had to take what was
- 38:24the original inspiration and we had.
- 38:28We found actual original pieces that I had come from all over
- 38:33the world shipped into me so that we could see how the shape
- 38:40and then I had to make it work for somebody who had three stunt
- 38:43people. So much.
- 38:49You know, it's a stunt, You know, she's actually, and she is
- 38:53badass. Yeah, Taylor got behind that
- 38:56chair and rode that. I was in.
- 38:58It's like the first few minutes of the film and I was like, I'm
- 39:01strapped in, let's go. Yeah.
- 39:03So that that piece was custom and workshop to death as we went
- 39:09because it needed to to represent that community, but
- 39:15also it needed to work as I do a lot of action movies, creative
- 39:22ads to work within a stunt environment.
- 39:25You know what I mean? I I now I hate it but I have to
- 39:31design around the action around the stunt and make sure that my
- 39:35stunt actors are are safe and we'll be safe.
- 39:39You know how do we make the the stunt woman's eyepiece
- 39:43comfortable and line So that is that you know when she if she
- 39:49falls she won't hurt herself or hurt her eyes.
- 39:51All those things I have to take into consideration when I'm
- 39:54designing it, you know, but rest of the jewelry we made some in
- 40:01house, OK. Yeah, some of it, especially
- 40:05some of the beautiful pieces that were worn in the harem we
- 40:08made. And we found Paris costumes has
- 40:14an entire floor of collections from different ages of jewelry.
- 40:20So I I flew to Spain to do some pulling and pulled a lot of
- 40:23jewelry from Paris. I found jewelry at Rancati.
- 40:30We found jewelry in the African markets in Rome.
- 40:34You know the vendors who brought up jewelry from Africa and some
- 40:40of them still very organic and haven't changed in decades.
- 40:46You know, but jewelry was important not only for the
- 40:51minimalism of it, but to show progress with with with time
- 40:58passage. As these men, Clarence's tribe,
- 41:03you know that they went from having nothing to you start to
- 41:09see the jewelry getting, not just, you know, organic beading
- 41:13or shells. It then became metal, you know.
- 41:18That's where you saw class structure too.
- 41:22Interesting. So Antoinette James McAvoy was
- 41:26recently on Good Morning America and he gave you quite the shout
- 41:29out regarding a certain curveball he threw you.
- 41:32But he also brought up his love for the armor that his character
- 41:35got to wear. So I want to ask you, how did
- 41:38the armor come about for the Roman soldiers?
- 41:42James, I hear that. Let's talk a little about the
- 41:44wardrobe, that there was a particular suit that you're a
- 41:47very excited costume that you were excited to wear.
- 41:50Yeah, you saw me in a a la Toga, I guess just there which is what
- 41:54I was meant to wear. And I show up on the first day
- 41:56and Antoinette, our incredible caution designer is going, so
- 41:59this is what you're going to wear.
- 42:00This is what's in the script and like, no, no, no, no, I need, I
- 42:02need like Roman armor. She's like well we think he's
- 42:05more like a kind of diplomat or something like no, no, no, he's
- 42:08a really like he's a he's a teed off soldier that like has to do
- 42:12this. So I need armor.
- 42:13And she's like. You got less than 24 hours to
- 42:16get you some armor. I was like, I'm sure you can do
- 42:18it. And she did.
- 42:19She pulled out the bag and she gave.
- 42:20Me this amazing. Thing and.
- 42:22I really I accepted this role so that I could get to where armor.
- 42:26I need my armor. Need my armor?
- 42:28Go find some armor. They found it for you.
- 42:30They worked. That almost killed me.
- 42:38I rewatched it this morning. I was like, this doesn't sound
- 42:41like a good story. It was not.
- 42:43It was not a good story. So we're shooting in Matera and
- 42:50before we wrapped for the holidays we had one week of
- 42:54stage work in Rome. The work we did in Rome was the
- 43:00jail cell and the The Walking on water scene.
- 43:05And we did all of James Mcavoy's scenes in Rome, and so I had to
- 43:11fly from Matera to Rome to meet with him before the rest of the
- 43:16crew traveled that weekend. And as per usual, he doesn't
- 43:25land until like Friday, Thursday night.
- 43:28We got there Friday morning, midday.
- 43:31I'm fitting him Friday for camera Monday.
- 43:36Oh boy, I was trying to get chills already.
- 43:38Yes. So I spoke to him.
- 43:41I think I spoke to him like Thursday night before I
- 43:44traveled. This is how tight my casting was
- 43:47on this film. And again, shout out to the best
- 43:51cutter stitchers ever. Nothing frazzled them.
- 43:56So we've done as scripted as requested by James.
- 44:00He was wearing a, you know, very elaborate toga for his stature.
- 44:05And I told him this when we spoke and he said, I don't know,
- 44:14I'm thinking, I'm thinking I want to be in a uniform and I'm
- 44:19like, OK, well we'll see what we can do.
- 44:21And obviously this is not scripted, this is not.
- 44:28I didn't have enough time to find out how accurate this would
- 44:34be, but he just felt for how he wanted to portray the the
- 44:38character. This is the route he wanted to
- 44:41go. Did I mention that Gladiators
- 44:44was prepping at the same time? You mean the one Janta Yates is
- 44:49doing? Oh my gosh, yeah.
- 44:53Oh my gosh, that's horrible. I mean, it's also cool, but
- 44:56horrible. Yeah, so we for when I arrived,
- 45:04my background, my crowd supervisor had already gone
- 45:07ahead of me and was fit in her costumes for the background
- 45:17scenes because there was a lot of Roman soldiers and some of
- 45:19them were stunts. And she's like, I think I've
- 45:24taken everything that is left. I don't know that there's a
- 45:27general like he wouldn't have needed to be of a higher level.
- 45:33So we found we bought we I pulled one of hers just so he
- 45:36could try it and see if this is what he wanted to do.
- 45:43So when we went he tried on He's like, well this isn't this is
- 45:47not. I need to look different from
- 45:48the others and I said I know, but I don't know.
- 45:56I can't guarantee that I will be able to.
- 46:01I said. I have every rental house
- 46:02looking to find something in your size, in the, you know,
- 46:09that is appropriate because my, it wasn't Even so much that we
- 46:13couldn't find something. I wanted to be sure that it
- 46:18would be the right costume. So I literally had my
- 46:22supervisor, who was still in Matera, contacting Western
- 46:27costume military to help me just narrow down because in Italy
- 46:34they're going to tell me, oh, it's fine.
- 46:39It's not fine. Oh, let me at least see what
- 46:42it's supposed to look like, right?
- 46:45So we got that. And obviously the one I was
- 46:49putting on him was not accurate because it would have been a
- 46:51much junior but he tried it and he's like, oh, wool makes me
- 46:57itch because the under tunics were all made out of wool makes
- 47:01me itch and OK, great, one of my cut earnest stitchers here we
- 47:07can cut a line in to put under something.
- 47:10I said I'm going to try my hardest to find you the accurate
- 47:15costume, so we literally had to go dig back into the back walls
- 47:24of I think we found something at Peruzzi, a couple that were
- 47:29close enough and when he tried it on he went into allergic
- 47:37reaction. Oh.
- 47:41Gosh, I'm stressed out right now.
- 47:45We had to call the doctor. We had.
- 47:48I mean, I'd already asked the first ADS, and they were really
- 47:52supportive to change the shooting schedule for Monday, to
- 47:57have him first be in the white toga for the jail scene so that
- 48:02I had time to fit him in the morning before his he he went to
- 48:06camera and then line whichever of the uniforms we only found
- 48:12two, whichever one worked, and then we'd have a couple of hours
- 48:19to to get it prepped and for him to be ready for camera.
- 48:23And the studio was there that day.
- 48:25Legendary was there that day. He went into a massive allergic
- 48:30reaction. We had to get the hospital, get
- 48:33someone there. They stopped shooting.
- 48:36They said put him back and let him wear the other.
- 48:40I said let him This is James McAvoy.
- 48:43He wants to wear this costume. He wants somebody to give him an
- 48:47EpiPen or medication or whatever.
- 48:51He's wearing a uniform in that scene.
- 48:54We steamed dryer balls, made a lined the costume.
- 49:02Doctor King gave him a shot. He was wearing that costume and
- 49:07he wore that costume. Nice.
- 49:10But I had the producers, the studio, a doctor standing
- 49:16outside of the trailer as I'm dressing him for camera.
- 49:21My hands were like this. Oh.
- 49:23My gosh. I'm going to take out the actor
- 49:27before the scene and I'm getting James texting me.
- 49:30Just put him in something else and I'm like, he said no, yeah.
- 49:38You come here and tell. Him.
- 49:43Oh my. Gosh.
- 49:45That's above my pay scale. Come on, man.
- 49:49I. Dress them.
- 49:49I don't tell them what to do. Yeah.
- 49:52What? Well, I appreciate this story
- 49:54because, you know, I talked to a lot of designers, but I don't
- 49:57often hear like the hard times. You know, it's always not that,
- 50:02you know, we don't have our struggles.
- 50:03But I appreciate the story because it's not always a
- 50:06glamorous job at all and this is proof to it.
- 50:10But it came out and everyone appears to be happy and I think
- 50:14it worked out for the best. What'd you say?
- 50:17And you know that really, really sweet of him to acknowledge what
- 50:24he put us through. Yeah, I mean, he's very, he
- 50:27knows. He knows he's a pro.
- 50:29He knows he you know and he was he was right.
- 50:32He he just looked at me and says you'll be fine, you'll make it
- 50:35happen. Yeah, you know, almost off my
- 50:39job guy. Yeah.
- 50:42Come on. Yeah.
- 50:45Well, with that, I mean, I'm just so happy for you.
- 50:48I'm just really excited to see what you're doing next.
- 50:50It's really such a joy. And I'm so glad that we're able
- 50:52now to talk about these films, costume, desire.
- 50:55Antoinette Messam, I hope you will come back again.
- 50:57Thank you so much for coming. This was so.
- 50:59Fun. No, thank you.
- 51:01And thank you for going to see the book of Clarence.
- 51:03That makes me really happy of. Course, I want to see it again,
- 51:06honestly. And I hope you'll come back
- 51:08hopefully around Halloween this year so we could talk about the
- 51:11orphan. I still want to do that.
- 51:13Yeah. All right.
- 51:16All right. Thank you, Antoinette.
- 51:18Bye. Hi, this is Dan, audio engineer
- 51:36of the podcast here to let you know that if you wanted to
- 51:40support the show, you can head over to the Art of
- 51:43costume.com/pod store. There you can buy some awesome
- 51:47tea, public merch with the podcast logo such as a shirt,
- 51:52coffee mug, stickers and of course a baby onesie.
- 51:57Thanks for all your support. Spencer That was amazing, that.
- 52:22Was such a fun. Interview.
- 52:23I could listen to Antoinette talk forever.
- 52:26She's just so in depth. I mean, she's she's a
- 52:30professional. Oh yeah that like I that's that
- 52:37wasn't that was amazing. That was really, really
- 52:41interesting and I cannot wait now to play our favorite game.
- 52:46Yeah, well, let's do it, Daniel. You know what to do.
- 52:50The one costume to rule them all.
- 52:57Spencer What's your one costume to rule them all?
- 53:00That's a hard one, actually. I kind of struggled this week to
- 53:04figure out what. There's just so many great
- 53:06costumes in this film. It's it's quite a large film
- 53:09too. There's so many costumes, so
- 53:11it's hard to settle one, but I think the one that just like
- 53:14really captivated me before I even saw the film in terms of
- 53:18like the trailer and then going into the film, I really loved it
- 53:21was the costume worn by Tiana Taylor, who played Mary
- 53:25Magdalene when she's in the chariot with the gold jewelry
- 53:29and a Cape, just like following behind her.
- 53:32I thought it was spectacular and I just love the colors, the use
- 53:36of color in this film in general.
- 53:37It was just brilliant and I think Antoinette did an
- 53:40incredible job with it. And I'm not much of A jewelry
- 53:43person, but this film kind of converted me.
- 53:47I was really struck by the use of gold and just jewelry in
- 53:51general. I that is, that's very that's
- 53:55very, very true. They really use jewelry well in
- 53:58this, and jewelry is a little bit of part of my one costume to
- 54:04rule them all, which is Clarence's All White Messiah.
- 54:09Yeah, at the party. At the party, he is just ready
- 54:16to woo his woman, and I love it, 'cause it's so like
- 54:21quintessentially like like Messiah Jesusy look, but
- 54:27perfectly tailored to the character of Clarence.
- 54:31It's It's perfect. It is so perfect.
- 54:35I also have to give an honorable mention to Benedict
- 54:41Cumberbatch's character once he has been cleaned up and looks
- 54:46like just the, like, stereotypical white Jesus.
- 54:51That's. So funny.
- 54:54I was laughing so much. It was so hard.
- 54:59It was so perfectly executed, so perfectly executed.
- 55:04It was fantastic. She did an incredible job across
- 55:08the board. I love that, too, because I
- 55:11remember I I found out just before I saw that Benedict
- 55:14Cumberbatch was in it. And the whole time you're
- 55:16watching a movie, you're like, Are you sure he's in it?
- 55:20You know, like just kind of looking at every character like
- 55:23something's not adding up. And then when you see the big
- 55:25reveal, oh, there it is. Yes.
- 55:30So funny. I love that Benedict Cumberbatch
- 55:32wanted to do that role too, you know?
- 55:35Oh gosh, it was. So I like, that's another thing
- 55:38about this movie. The casting is flawless.
- 55:40Oh yeah, it's. Like.
- 55:42Every character. Every.
- 55:44Cast Member was brilliant in this film.
- 55:46There's not a lot of movies that I watch where I'm like, Oh yeah,
- 55:49you couldn't have cast this any other way, but this is
- 55:52definitely one of those movies. For sure.
- 55:56I couldn't agree more. And Elizabeth, that is our The
- 55:59Book of Clarence episode. What a fun one I was.
- 56:03Unexpected. Like Banger to me, you know.
- 56:06Yeah. Oh man.
- 56:09Well, if you all loved what you heard in this episode.
- 56:12Or maybe you want to tell us what your one costume to rule
- 56:14them all is. Don't forget to leave us a
- 56:17voicemail at 626-515-1826 or e-mail us at
- 56:22theartofcostume@gmail.com. We want to know what your
- 56:26favorite costume was, so hit us up.
- 56:28Don't worry and we won't bother you with spam or prank calls or
- 56:32anything. Though actually, now that I say
- 56:34out loud, that would be kind of fun, but I promise I won't.
- 56:37Yes, we will not. We absolutely will not prank
- 56:40call you or spam e-mail you. I can't imagine getting a prank
- 56:45call from us, though it would be funny anyway, people.
- 56:50Would be confused. Elizabeth, what Are we watching
- 56:55it for our next episode? I am so excited.
- 57:00We've waited a long time for this.
- 57:03Next week we are watching Dune Part 2.
- 57:08Finally, finally, we could finally talk about the next
- 57:13Messiah, the Lisa and Al Ghayib. Absolutely, absolutely.
- 57:23And if you would like some visuals with what you're
- 57:27hearing, check out our YouTube at youtube.com slash at the Art
- 57:33of Costume or if you want some content in between episodes, you
- 57:38can follow us at the Art of Costume pod on Instagram or at
- 57:43the Art of Costume on TikTok. And like we said, it's getting
- 57:47warm. So if you need a little like
- 57:49T-shirt or something to wear out and about, I don't know, in your
- 57:53garden on a nice nature walk, you can go to
- 57:57theartofcostume.com/POD store and pick yourself up a Art of
- 58:02Costume Podcast T-shirt. Yes, I still haven't let go of
- 58:08the Art of Costume podcast Swimsuit.
- 58:10That is still very much in the works.
- 58:13Sure, OK. We love whatever you say.
- 58:18Don't forget to leave us a five star text review on Apple
- 58:22Podcasts and you can also rate US on Spotify as well, which we
- 58:25very much appreciate. Yes, Elizabeth has been so good
- 58:30to see you. I am so excited to hear that The
- 58:32Musical is going well, even if you have to sell a bunch of.
- 58:36Corsets. So have fun with that.
- 58:39Let me know if you need. Anything, I will definitely will
- 58:43let you know if I needed anything from California.
- 58:46Yep, available to help. Thank you all so much for
- 58:51listening. Have a fantastic week.
- 58:57The Art of Costume podcast is hosted and produced by Elizabeth
- 59:01Joy Glass and Spencer Williams. Our audio engineering and
- 59:06editing is done by Dan White. Follow us on TikTok at The Art
- 59:11of Costume and Instagram at The Art of Costume Pod.
- 59:16If you want to support the show, go to
- 59:18theartofcostume.com/podstore. For more podcast updates,
- 59:24costume reviews, deep dives and interviews, go to
- 59:28theartofcostume.com, A blog dedicated to highlighting the
- 59:33best in costume design.