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From frying pans to head torches: how chef James Brun learned to cook from the land

James didn't plan to be a chef at five; he drifted into it after art history and a spell teaching English in Barcelona. He landed at Cricket in London with no professional experience and learned fast. “On the stoves within two months,” he says. It was a place that gave young cooks responsibility and taught him how to make food taste, in the bluntest sense, good: the old rules about salt and butter.

A stint at Fenn introduced him to fine-dining precision and rare-breed suppliers. But moving to Namayashi on the Isle of Lewis changed his relationship to ingredients. No fridges, off-grid…

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