Latest / The Red Solo Traveler Podcast / The Thimble Islands Are Private. The Granite Under Them Built Liberty’s Pedestal.
Transcript
- 0:08Speaker 1: So imagine you buy a ticket, right? You're going on
- 0:10Speaker 1: a boat cruise. But the absolute fundamental rule of the day,
- 0:14Speaker 1: before you even step on the deck, is that you
- 0:16Speaker 1: are never, under any circumstances, allowed to get off the boat.
- 0:20Speaker 2: Right. Yeah, you just board at the dock, you float
- 0:23Speaker 2: around looking at this series of private islands, and then
- 0:27Speaker 2: you just return to the exact same dock. Your feet
- 0:29Speaker 2: literally stay planted on the deck the entire time.
- 0:33Speaker 1: Welcome to the Red Solo Traveler podcast. Today we're doing
- 0:36Speaker 1: a really close look at the kind of bizarre, beautifully
- 0:40Speaker 1: stubborn reality of the Thimble Islands.
- 0:42Speaker 2: Yeah, sitting just offshore in the Long Island Sound right
- 0:45Speaker 2: off Brantford, Connecticut.
- 0:47Speaker 1: Exactly. And our mission today, you know, drawing directly from
- 0:50Speaker 1: the Red Solo Traveler guide, is to look past that
- 0:52Speaker 1: initial postcard aesthetic. We want to figure out the actual
- 0:55Speaker 1: mechanics of this place. Because this 45-minute narrated loop on
- 1:00Speaker 1: the water... It exists for one very specific reason.
- 1:03Speaker 2: Oh, absolutely. It is literally the only legal way most
- 1:06Speaker 2: people will ever lay eyes on a Victorian summer colony
- 1:09Speaker 2: that somehow completely managed to avoid becoming a public park.
- 1:13Speaker 1: Right. And the Stony Creek dock, which, by the way,
- 1:15Speaker 1: looks just like this perfectly quaint town landing that is
- 1:19Speaker 1: as close as your ticket is ever going to get you.
- 1:21Speaker 1: You cannot land.
- 1:22Speaker 2: You really can't. The product they're selling you isn't a destination.
- 1:26Speaker 2: I mean, the product is the view, heavily guarded by
- 1:29Speaker 2: the actual residents who are you know, staring back at
- 1:32Speaker 2: you from their porches.
- 1:33Speaker 1: It's so wild to think about. But before we even
- 1:36Speaker 1: get into who actually lives on these rocks, we kind
- 1:38Speaker 1: of need to talk about the physical space itself, right?
- 1:42Speaker 1: Because even counting the islands requires a bit of, well... Oh, totally.
- 1:47Speaker 2: The physical count is entirely dependent on like tide math.
- 1:50Speaker 2: If you're counting strictly the land masses that stay dry
- 1:52Speaker 2: at high tide, you're looking at a neighborhood of about
- 1:55Speaker 2: 100 islands.
- 1:56Speaker 1: 100 islands, which is a lot. But, you know, local
- 2:00Speaker 1: folklore always prefers a better story than just the raw math.
- 2:02Speaker 2: They really do. The tourism brochures love, I mean, they
- 2:05Speaker 2: just love to boast that there are 365 islands out there,
- 2:10Speaker 2: like one for every day of the year.
- 2:11Speaker 1: Right. Which sounds incredibly perfectly planned. But to actually reach
- 2:16Speaker 1: that number, you have to count like every single submerged ledge,
- 2:20Speaker 1: every pebble, every little granite knob that temporarily pokes out
- 2:23Speaker 1: of the water at low tide.
- 2:25Speaker 2: Exactly. It's essentially a daily magic trick. But you cannot,
- 2:29Speaker 2: under any circumstances, treat that 365 number as a legitimate census.
- 2:35Speaker 2: It's just not.
- 2:35Speaker 1: Yeah, because nobody is building a summer home on a
- 2:38Speaker 1: rock that goes underwater twice a day.
- 2:40Speaker 2: No, of course not. The real census, you know, the
- 2:43Speaker 2: number that actually matters for human habitation, is roughly 23
- 2:47Speaker 2: to 25 islands. And across those specific rocks, you're looking
- 2:51Speaker 2: at a total of about 81 buildings.
- 2:53Speaker 1: 81 buildings. And most of these islands, they just host
- 2:56Speaker 1: a single isolated house, right?
- 2:58Speaker 2: Usually, yeah. Just one house on a rock. But Money
- 3:00Speaker 2: Island is the massive exception to that rule. I mean,
- 3:03Speaker 2: it is packed. It carries about 32 of those houses
- 3:05Speaker 2: all by itself.
- 3:06Speaker 1: Wow, 32.
- 3:07Speaker 2: Yeah, all packed tightly together, kind of like a floating
- 3:10Speaker 2: suburban cul-de-sac. It's very different from the rest.
- 3:13Speaker 1: That is fascinating. But, you know, long before the Victorians
- 3:16Speaker 1: decided to pack houses onto Money Island, the original inhabitants
- 3:20Speaker 1: actually had a much more accurate description of the area,
- 3:23Speaker 1: I think.
- 3:24Speaker 2: Oh, definitely. The Matabosek people called this area Kudumquash, which
- 3:29Speaker 2: translates to the beautiful sea rocks. Which, I mean, that
- 3:33Speaker 2: just paints a perfect picture of the raw geology out there. Right.
- 3:37Speaker 1: Beautiful sea rocks. And then Adrian Bloch sailed past them in, what, 1614?
- 3:42Speaker 2: Yeah, 1614. And the early colonial maps literally labeled them
- 3:45Speaker 2: the Hundred Islands, which perfectly aligns with that high tide
- 3:49Speaker 2: math we were just talking about.
- 3:50Speaker 1: See, the math checks out historically. But by 1739, the
- 3:54Speaker 1: town records started referring to them as the Thimble Islands.
- 3:58Speaker 1: And I always just assumed, and I think most people
- 4:00Speaker 1: make this visual assumption, that the islands look like little
- 4:03Speaker 1: sewing thimbles jutting out of the water.
- 4:05Speaker 2: Right. It seems so obvious. But the historical consensus is
- 4:08Speaker 2: actually botanical. The area was apparently covered in wild thimbleberries,
- 4:12Speaker 2: which is a type of native raspberry.
- 4:14Speaker 1: Oh, wait, really? It's named after a raspberry? Yeah.
- 4:17Speaker 2: The name stuck long before any of the grand summer
- 4:20Speaker 2: cottages were ever sketched out. It was all about the berries.
- 4:24Speaker 1: That is so funny. Okay, so this world-class stone is
- 4:28Speaker 1: sitting out there in the water, covered in berries... And
- 4:31Speaker 1: eventually these 19th century families decide to build private summer
- 4:36Speaker 1: kingdoms on top of it.
- 4:37Speaker 2: Right. But the actual historical weight of these violence, the
- 4:40Speaker 2: thing that gives them real national significance, isn't the Victorian architecture.
- 4:44Speaker 2: I mean, it's the bedrock itself.
- 4:46Speaker 1: The granite.
- 4:47Speaker 2: Exactly. The cottages sit on this coarse pink stony creek granite.
- 4:52Speaker 2: And this particular stone is legendary in American architecture.
- 4:56Speaker 1: Right. Because didn't they use it for some massive projects?
- 4:58Speaker 2: Oh, huge. Huge. The commercial quarry on the mainland, along
- 5:01Speaker 2: with an old cut right out in the islands, specifically
- 5:03Speaker 2: on Bear Island, they pulled up the granite that literally
- 5:07Speaker 2: built national monuments.
- 5:08Speaker 1: National monuments. Like which ones?
- 5:10Speaker 2: Well, the pedestal holding up the Statue of Liberty in
- 5:13Speaker 2: New York Harbor. That is made of this rock. Grant S.
- 5:16Speaker 2: Tomb in New York is built from it, too.
- 5:17Speaker 1: That is incredible. So the homeowners out there essentially kept
- 5:21Speaker 1: the leftover bedrock to build their porches on, and they
- 5:24Speaker 1: fiercely protect the view, but the actual valuable pink granite
- 5:28Speaker 1: under them, had already left for New York to become
- 5:31Speaker 1: world famous.
- 5:31Speaker 2: That's exactly it. The islands kept the view. New York
- 5:34Speaker 2: got the rock. And, you know, the commercial quarry is
- 5:37Speaker 2: actually still chewing up the mainland today. But out on
- 5:40Speaker 2: the water, the historical reality is quite literally written in stone.
- 5:45Speaker 1: But it's so funny because you contrast that rock-solid architectural
- 5:49Speaker 1: history with what the guide calls the microphone copy. You
- 5:53Speaker 1: get fed when you take one of the boat tours.
- 5:55Speaker 2: Oh, the microphone copy is a whole different beast. As
- 5:58Speaker 2: the boat drifts past High Island and Kidder's Harbor, the
- 6:01Speaker 2: captains inevitably launch into these elaborate tales of Captain William Kidd.
- 6:05Speaker 1: Right, weaving these stories of pirate gold buried beneath the
- 6:08Speaker 1: summer homes. But I'm looking at this Captain Kidd lore
- 6:11Speaker 1: in the Red Solo Traveler Guide, and it feels like
- 6:14Speaker 1: completely manufactured tourism bait.
- 6:16Speaker 2: Oh, it is, 100%.
- 6:17Speaker 1: Right. Because every single coastal town from Maine to Florida
- 6:21Speaker 1: is desperately claims Captain Kidd buried treasure on their specific beach.
- 6:27Speaker 1: Why are we even giving this pirate mythology airtime on
- 6:30Speaker 1: a tour boat when the actual granite beneath the boat
- 6:33Speaker 1: built the Statue of Liberty?
- 6:34Speaker 2: Well, human nature dictates the script, right? I mean, granite
- 6:37Speaker 2: represents backbreaking labor, industrial logistics, quarry dust. It's work. Pirates
- 6:43Speaker 2: represent romance, rebellion, hidden wealth.
- 6:46Speaker 1: I guess people on vacation don't want to hear about
- 6:48Speaker 1: industrial logistics.
- 6:49Speaker 2: Exactly. Passengers on a breezy summer cruise want the romance.
- 6:54Speaker 2: But the historical record leaves absolutely no room for the myth.
- 6:58Speaker 2: Captain Kidd's documented treasure cache was buried further east on
- 7:01Speaker 2: Gardner's Island, and it was definitively dug up.
- 7:04Speaker 1: So no hidden chests of gold in the thimbles.
- 7:07Speaker 2: None. Locations like Money Island and Kidd's Harbor got their
- 7:10Speaker 2: names from wishful local legends, not from recovered gold.
- 7:12Speaker 1: It's all just branding. But if you want real, like,
- 7:15Speaker 1: clandestine maritime history out there, you actually have to look
- 7:18Speaker 1: at the Prohibition era, right?
- 7:19Speaker 2: Oh, absolutely. Those hidden coves, the deep inlets, the jagged rocks,
- 7:25Speaker 2: they provided the perfect cover for rum runners trying to
- 7:28Speaker 2: sneak illicit cargo past the law sitting across the Long
- 7:31Speaker 2: Island Sound. And that history actually happened. It's documented.
- 7:35Speaker 1: Okay, so moving from the pirates who didn't stay to
- 7:38Speaker 1: the people who actually did, the tour guide gossip often
- 7:41Speaker 1: clashes with the property records here, too.
- 7:43Speaker 2: It really does. You'll hear the microphone announce that P.T.
- 7:46Speaker 2: Barnum and his partner Bailey maintained these grand estates out
- 7:50Speaker 2: on the rocks.
- 7:51Speaker 1: Right, because everyone loves a circus connection.
- 7:53Speaker 2: Right, but the actual connection to the circus belongs to P.T.
- 7:56Speaker 2: Barnum's famous performer, General Tom Thumb. He is said to
- 8:00Speaker 2: have courted his wife out on Cut-In-Two Island, but Barnum
- 8:03Speaker 2: himself didn't have an estate there.
- 8:05Speaker 1: The political name-dropping gets heavily embellished, too, I noticed. There's
- 8:08Speaker 1: this claim that Davis Island served as William Howard Taft's
- 8:12Speaker 1: summer White House.
- 8:13Speaker 2: Yeah, that's a massive stretch of the imagination. The quieter,
- 8:16Speaker 2: much more accurate historical reality is that Taft likely just
- 8:19Speaker 2: visited the island for a few days. Calling it a
- 8:22Speaker 2: summer White House is a very generous microphone copy.
- 8:26Speaker 1: Very generous.
- 8:27Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 8:27Speaker 1: But some of the celebrity claims actually do check out perfectly.
- 8:30Speaker 1: Like when the boat slows down your governor's island and
- 8:33Speaker 1: the captain mentions the Doonesbury creator Gary Trudeau and broadcaster
- 8:37Speaker 1: Jane Pauley having a retreat there. That is entirely accurate.
- 8:41Speaker 2: Yep, that one is true. And then there's Horse Island,
- 8:43Speaker 2: which is the largest of the entire archipelago, and that
- 8:46Speaker 2: one isn't used for summer leisure at all.
- 8:48Speaker 1: Oh, really? Who owns that one?
- 8:49Speaker 2: Yale University owns it outright. They manage the land strictly
- 8:52Speaker 2: for ecological research. No cottages, just sign-ins.
- 8:56Speaker 1: Wow, that's a twist.
- 8:58Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 8:58Speaker 1: But, you know, speaking of ownership, the modern real estate
- 9:01Speaker 1: maneuvers out here are absolutely wild. The guide talks about this.
- 9:05Speaker 1: Starting around 1997, a woman named Christine Svenningsen began buying
- 9:10Speaker 1: up whole island's as single properties.
- 9:12Speaker 2: Whole islands, just snapping them up.
- 9:14Speaker 1: Yes. We're talking about West Crib, Rogers, which features this
- 9:18Speaker 1: massive Tudor-style mansion wheeler, Phelps, Jepson, and the Cutting Twos.
- 9:23Speaker 1: It's like someone casually buying up entire corner lots in
- 9:26Speaker 1: a high-stakes game of Monopoly.
- 9:28Speaker 2: It really is like Monopoly. And buying an archipelago piece
- 9:32Speaker 2: by piece like that It reveals how these islands still
- 9:35Speaker 2: operate under a very old world, almost feudal set of rules.
- 9:39Speaker 1: Feudal is a good word for it.
- 9:41Speaker 2: Right. The transactions resemble the way massive agricultural estates or
- 9:45Speaker 2: small kingdoms used to change hands. You aren't just buying
- 9:48Speaker 2: a house with a water view. You are buying total
- 9:51Speaker 2: sovereignty over a piece of the map, however small it is.
- 9:55Speaker 1: And even though parts of that massive collection have since
- 9:57Speaker 1: been sold off, like I think Wheeler Island closed for
- 10:00Speaker 1: nearly $ 3 million in 2022, the scale of ownership remains total.
- 10:05Speaker 1: You buy the whole rock.
- 10:06Speaker 2: You buy the rock. And on the complete opposite end
- 10:09Speaker 2: of the spectrum from a $ 3 million Tudor mansion, there
- 10:12Speaker 2: is an island out there that consists of nothing but
- 10:15Speaker 2: a gazebo.
- 10:15Speaker 1: Just a gazebo.
- 10:16Speaker 2: Literally just a gazebo sitting on a rock. When the
- 10:19Speaker 2: tour narration points it out, you have to believe your eyes.
- 10:23Speaker 2: People always think there's a trick, but there is no
- 10:25Speaker 2: hidden underground bunker. It is literally just a tiny wooden
- 10:28Speaker 2: structure clinging to a piece of granite.
- 10:31Speaker 1: That is hilarious. But, you know, purchasing the rock, whether
- 10:34Speaker 1: it holds a mansion or a gazebo, that's actually the
- 10:37Speaker 1: easy part. Because living on it, entirely surrounded by saltwater...
- 10:41Speaker 1: requires a deeply stubborn kind of logistical infrastructure.
- 10:45Speaker 2: Oh, absolutely. Most people taking pictures from the deck of
- 10:48Speaker 2: the tour boat completely fail to grasp the daily friction
- 10:52Speaker 2: of living out there.
- 10:53Speaker 1: Yeah, because out of all those inhabited islands, only six
- 10:56Speaker 1: to nine of them, and that depends on how you
- 10:59Speaker 1: classify the underwater cables, actually have electricity pulled from the mainland.
- 11:03Speaker 2: Exactly. That leaves roughly two-thirds of this very wealthy summer
- 11:07Speaker 2: colony completely disconnected from the grid. They rely entirely on
- 11:12Speaker 2: noisy generators, solar panel arrays, and rain barrels.
- 11:15Speaker 1: It's so contradictory. It's like outfitting a 19th century covered
- 11:19Speaker 1: wagon with a GPS system. The technology they're using might
- 11:22Speaker 1: be modern, but the survival mechanics of hauling your own
- 11:25Speaker 1: drinking water and managing your own power are entirely pioneer.
- 11:29Speaker 1: It is.
- 11:29Speaker 2: And modernized, you know, they spot those solar panels and
- 11:32Speaker 2: rain catchments from the boat and they immediately misinterpret the narrative. Well,
- 11:36Speaker 2: they assume they're looking at this highly curated, progressive, green
- 11:41Speaker 2: energy lifestyle brand. You know, like a display of eco-wealth.
- 11:45Speaker 2: Look how green they are.
- 11:47Speaker 1: Oh, right. Like it's a choice.
- 11:48Speaker 2: Exactly. But the reality is a legal concept called a
- 11:52Speaker 2: missing easement.
- 11:53Speaker 1: A missing easement. Explain that for a second.
- 11:56Speaker 2: So an easement is the legal right to run a
- 11:59Speaker 2: physical utility line across someone else's property, or in this case,
- 12:03Speaker 2: through public waters. These homeowners use solar power and catch
- 12:07Speaker 2: rain to Because they are legally and physically barred from
- 12:11Speaker 2: pulling a municipal utility line from the shore.
- 12:13Speaker 1: So they literally just can't get a cable out there.
- 12:16Speaker 2: Right. It is forced survival logistics dressed up in modern tech.
- 12:19Speaker 2: It's not a lifestyle brand. It's a lack of infrastructure.
- 12:22Speaker 1: That is such an important distinction. And that hardcore survival
- 12:26Speaker 1: element dictates the calendar, too. The season for these houses
- 12:29Speaker 1: is strictly mid-April to late October. By the time winter
- 12:33Speaker 1: rolls in, the properties are boarded up and completely abandoned.
- 12:36Speaker 2: Because nobody wants to romanticize a January morning commute through
- 12:39Speaker 2: freezing sea spray and a little dinghy, you know?
- 12:42Speaker 1: Definitely not. And the environment always holds the ultimate veto
- 12:45Speaker 1: power over how these islands are used anyway. Like, Money
- 12:48Speaker 1: Island used to look vastly different than it does now. Oh, vastly.
- 12:52Speaker 2: Before the mid-20th century, it supported a really bustling commercial
- 12:56Speaker 2: summer trade. They had lively hotels. They even had a
- 12:59Speaker 2: bowling alley out there.
- 13:00Speaker 1: A bowling alley on the rock. Yeah.
- 13:02Speaker 2: It was a proper destination where people could mingle. But
- 13:06Speaker 2: the breaking point arrived with the infamous 1938 hurricane.
- 13:10Speaker 1: Right. That storm essentially reset the entire culture of the archipelago.
- 13:14Speaker 1: It wiped the commercial hotel trade completely off the map.
- 13:17Speaker 1: And the business owners just simply never rebuilt.
- 13:20Speaker 2: They couldn't. So what we see today on Money Island...
- 13:23Speaker 2: That dense pack of strictly private homes is just the
- 13:27Speaker 2: residential aftermath of that storm.
- 13:29Speaker 1: And the current homeowners have worked incredibly hard to lock
- 13:32Speaker 1: that private residential version of the islands in place permanently.
- 13:36Speaker 1: In 1988, they secured a designation for the Stony Creek
- 13:39Speaker 1: Thimble Islands Historic District on the National Register.
- 13:43Speaker 2: Which is a huge deal. That official status beautifully protects
- 13:46Speaker 2: the 19th century architectural look of the cottages. It prevents teardowns.
- 13:51Speaker 2: It prevents modern monstrosities from going up.
- 13:53Speaker 1: But what it absolutely does not do is open any doors, docks,
- 13:57Speaker 1: or pathways to the general public. It keeps the public out.
- 14:00Speaker 2: Very much so. Which brings us to the harsh reality
- 14:03Speaker 2: of actually navigating a trip here. We have this stubbornly
- 14:07Speaker 2: private historic district that actively prevents you from walking around.
- 14:10Speaker 2: So how do you actually visit this place without ruining
- 14:13Speaker 2: your own expectations?
- 14:15Speaker 1: Well, the Red Solo Traveler Guide lays out some very
- 14:17Speaker 1: rigid ground rules for the mindset you need. expectations will
- 14:21Speaker 1: absolutely make or break this excursion.
- 14:23Speaker 2: Completely. First of all, scrub the phrase hidden gem from
- 14:25Speaker 2: your vocabulary right now. The thimbles are heavily documented and
- 14:29Speaker 2: very well known.
- 14:30Speaker 1: Not a secret. Got it.
- 14:31Speaker 2: Right. Second, banish any comparisons to sprawling open water cruises
- 14:36Speaker 2: in the Caribbean or Alaska. This is a hyper-local, very
- 14:39Speaker 2: confined loop.
- 14:41Speaker 1: And third, the guide stresses you should never treat this
- 14:44Speaker 1: 45-minute ride as a trial run to see if you enjoy, quote,
- 14:48Speaker 1: real cruising. The experiences share nothing but the presence of saltwater.
- 14:52Speaker 2: Nothing at all. But above all else, and this is
- 14:55Speaker 2: the big one, do not promise anyone in your car,
- 14:58Speaker 2: especially young children, that they are going to get out
- 15:01Speaker 2: and explore an island.
- 15:02Speaker 1: Yes. Do not promise an island landing.
- 15:06Speaker 2: If someone in your party fundamentally requires solid ground to
- 15:10Speaker 2: enjoy the day, you need a completely different itinerary, you
- 15:13Speaker 2: need a specific permit, and you need a trip to
- 15:16Speaker 2: Outer Island— which is managed separately and is not part
- 15:19Speaker 2: of this standard sightseeing loop.
- 15:21Speaker 1: So the experience is essentially identical to visiting an exclusive
- 15:24Speaker 1: museum where you are legally required to stay on the
- 15:27Speaker 1: sidewalk and only peer through the windows.
- 15:29Speaker 2: That's a great way to put it. But, you know,
- 15:31Speaker 2: observing a completely closed private world has a unique anthropological value,
- 15:35Speaker 2: provided you handle the logistics correctly. Right.
- 15:38Speaker 1: So let's talk logistics. There are three independent boats operating
- 15:41Speaker 1: out of the same dock at the end of Indian
- 15:43Speaker 1: Point Road. The Seamist, the Volsunga IV.
- 15:48Speaker 2: And the biggest mistake visitors make is trying to find, like,
- 15:53Speaker 2: a unified ticketing office or a central corporate brand. That
- 15:56Speaker 2: doesn't exist. These are independent captains sharing a piece of wood.
- 16:00Speaker 1: Exactly. The guidebook details the exact ticket fares, which days
- 16:05Speaker 1: certain boats take off in the middle of summer, like,
- 16:08Speaker 1: I know the Seamist is closed on Tuesdays, for example,
- 16:11Speaker 1: and the varying length of the hauls.
- 16:12Speaker 2: Just don't overthink the brand. You simply look at the schedule,
- 16:16Speaker 2: pick the boat that fits your afternoon, and buy the
- 16:19Speaker 2: ticket directly from that specific operator's site.
- 16:22Speaker 1: Match the site to the boat. But managing your arrival
- 16:25Speaker 1: is where the real stress occurs, isn't it?
- 16:27Speaker 2: Oh, absolutely. The boats typically board at the top of
- 16:30Speaker 2: the hour and they push off the dock on the
- 16:31Speaker 2: quarter hour. And parking at the town landing itself is
- 16:34Speaker 2: effectively a myth.
- 16:36Speaker 1: A myth.
- 16:36Speaker 2: It is. Showing up 10 minutes before departure and expecting
- 16:39Speaker 2: a convenient spot right by the water... will result in
- 16:42Speaker 2: you watching your boat sail away without you.
- 16:45Speaker 1: So the strategy requires arriving quite early and hunting for
- 16:48Speaker 1: street parking a few blocks back into the residential neighborhood.
- 16:52Speaker 1: Or the guide mentions a local church lot across from
- 16:55Speaker 1: the beach that often accepts a small donation for parking,
- 16:59Speaker 1: which is usually the most reliable backup plan.
- 17:01Speaker 2: That church lot is a lifesaver and a critical warning
- 17:04Speaker 2: for comfort. Utilize the public restrooms in town or by
- 17:08Speaker 2: the beach before you step onto the deck. A 45-minute
- 17:12Speaker 2: confined loop does not accommodate bathroom breaks.
- 17:15Speaker 1: Very good to know. Now, timing the entire day trip
- 17:18Speaker 1: requires a strategic pairing, and the guidebook provides a flawless
- 17:21Speaker 1: recommendation for this.
- 17:22Speaker 2: I love this itinerary.
- 17:23Speaker 1: It's so good. The ideal Connecticut itinerary starts in the
- 17:26Speaker 1: morning with the Essex steam train and riverboat connections. That
- 17:29Speaker 1: experience gives you the wide, sweeping, historic river corridor.
- 17:33Speaker 2: Right. You do that in the morning, and then after lunch,
- 17:35Speaker 2: you drive down to Stony Creek specifically for the 4 p.m.
- 17:39Speaker 2: departure on your chosen Thimble Islands boat.
- 17:42Speaker 1: Why lock into that 415 p.m. slot specifically?
- 17:45Speaker 2: Because of the sun. The late afternoon sun creates this incredible,
- 17:49Speaker 2: harsh light that hits the pink granite directly. It completely
- 17:53Speaker 2: changes the visual texture of the rocks and the houses
- 17:56Speaker 2: sitting on them.
- 17:57Speaker 1: Oh, that makes sense.
- 17:58Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 17:58Speaker 1: Because morning cruises offer calmer water, but that late afternoon
- 18:01Speaker 1: light provides the drama.
- 18:02Speaker 2: Exactly. You end up experiencing two completely different Connecticut waters
- 18:07Speaker 2: in a single day. Two waters, two entirely different sets
- 18:10Speaker 2: of rules.
- 18:11Speaker 1: But the guide is equally forceful about what you must
- 18:14Speaker 1: never pair with the thimbles. Do not, under any circumstances...
- 18:18Speaker 1: Stack this island cruise with a visit to Mystic Seaport
- 18:21Speaker 1: on the same day.
- 18:22Speaker 2: Never. Mentally and physically, they are completely clashing experiences.
- 18:26Speaker 1: Because Mystic Seaport is a sprawling, interactive, historical village. It
- 18:31Speaker 1: demands your feet, you're walking, you're climbing onto old ships,
- 18:34Speaker 1: you're exploring buildings.
- 18:36Speaker 2: Right, and the thimbles represent a confined harbor where you
- 18:39Speaker 2: are actively, legally restricted to a wooden bench on a boat.
- 18:43Speaker 1: Right, so transitioning from the sheer freedom of Mystic To
- 18:46Speaker 1: the confinement of the Stony Creek Loop, it'll make the
- 18:49Speaker 1: boat ride feel restrictive rather than relaxing. Save Mystic for
- 18:53Speaker 1: a dedicated trip on a different day.
- 18:55Speaker 2: Exactly. So pulling back to look at the entire picture,
- 18:58Speaker 2: I think the core takeaway of this exploration is just
- 19:01Speaker 2: the sheer obstinance.
- 19:02Speaker 1: Of the place. Obstinance is the perfect word.
- 19:05Speaker 2: The Thimble Islands form this beautifully stubborn, frozen-in-time archipelago. The
- 19:10Speaker 2: residents power their modern lives with rain barrels and solar
- 19:13Speaker 2: panels because the ocean refuses to grant them a utility line.
- 19:17Speaker 1: They protect their 19th century aesthetics with fierce historic district
- 19:21Speaker 1: laws and strict privacy barriers.
- 19:23Speaker 2: Right. And all of this sits directly on top of
- 19:26Speaker 2: the leftover pink granite that literally holds up the Statue
- 19:29Speaker 2: of Liberty. The people who buy these rocks have successfully
- 19:32Speaker 2: fought off time, the weather, and the public to keep
- 19:34Speaker 2: their tiny kingdoms exactly as they are.
- 19:37Speaker 1: Understanding the mechanics of that survival... makes you appreciate the
- 19:40Speaker 1: view from the boat in a completely different way. You
- 19:44Speaker 1: aren't just looking at pretty houses, you are looking at
- 19:46Speaker 1: a master class in private preservation. Thank you for joining
- 19:50Speaker 1: us on the Red Solo Traveler Podcast. Before you go,
- 19:53Speaker 1: we want to leave you with one final thought to
- 19:55Speaker 1: ponder the next time you find yourself looking out at
- 19:57Speaker 1: those pink granite rocks. Is a narrated loop past other people, ease, docks,
- 20:01Speaker 1: a visit, or the only form this place will allow?
- 20:11Speaker 1: Thank you.