Latest / Around the Clock in Europe : A Travel Sequence / National Geographic Magazine Vol. 07 - 12. December 1896-National Geographic Society

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National Geographic Magazine Vol. 07 - 12. December 1896-National Geographic Society · Around the Clock in Europe : A Travel Sequence

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  Speaker 1: Section one of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven, December
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  Speaker 1: eighteen ninety six. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
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  Speaker 1: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
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  Speaker 1: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. The Geography of
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  Speaker 1: the Southern Peninsula of the United States by the Reverend
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  Speaker 1: John M McGonagall. The study of the geography of the
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  Speaker 1: Southern Peninsula of the United States began about four hundred
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  Speaker 1: years ago. Although the Great Admiral had not found the
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  Speaker 1: mainland of the Western Hemisphere, he had planted the standard
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  Speaker 1: of Spain on its adjacent islands, and his reports had
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  Speaker 1: kindled the spirit of adventure and awakened the hope of
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  Speaker 1: greater discoveries. In nineteen forty eight, an expedition led by
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  Speaker 1: Pinson and Solis entered the Gulf of Mexico and made
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  Speaker 1: the harbor of Tampico, sailing thence around the whole of
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  Speaker 1: the Gulf coast, circumnavigating the Southern Peninsula, and journeying northward
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  Speaker 1: as far perhaps as the cape of Chesapeake Bay. Of
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  Speaker 1: this successful voyage, Ledezma and America's Vespuccius were the pilots,
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  Speaker 1: and it was doubtless from their charts that the first
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  Speaker 1: map of the peninsula was made. This map was made
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  Speaker 1: in Portugal by someone unknown for Alberto Cantino, who carried
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  Speaker 1: it to Italy to the Duke of Ferrara in the
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  Speaker 1: autumn of fifteen oh two. The original may now be
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  Speaker 1: seen in Modina, where it has been since eighteen eighty six.
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  Speaker 1: One recognizes at a glance its singular correctness, at least
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  Speaker 1: as to its general outlines. It shows the deep indentations
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  Speaker 1: of the west coast and hints at the characteristic lagoon
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  Speaker 1: on the east. Without much difficulty and with reasonable certainty,
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  Speaker 1: we can make some identifications. The river of the Palms
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  Speaker 1: is the Appalachicola. The cape of the end of April
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  Speaker 1: is the southern point of the peninsula. The river of
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  Speaker 1: the canoes is the Matanzas, and the river of the
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  Speaker 1: Alligators the Saint John's. Both this and the Tabolo ter
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  Speaker 1: Noove of fifteen oh eight were supposed to exhibit the
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  Speaker 1: New World, and their for to include in Florida the
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  Speaker 1: whole of North America. How widely they were published we
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  Speaker 1: do not know, but they doubtless aided greatly in the
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  Speaker 1: conduct of subsequent expeditions added to the other impulses toward
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  Speaker 1: discovery which marked the twilight of the fifteenth century. The
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  Speaker 1: love of life contributed its strong motives. In a book
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  Speaker 1: which might have been dedicated to Anonaias, John Mandeville told
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  Speaker 1: of a fountain in Eastern Asia of which he and
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  Speaker 1: his fellow travelers had drunk freely, and ever since had
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  Speaker 1: known new life instinct with the strength and joy of youth.
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  Speaker 1: To find this fountain of youth became a new quest
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  Speaker 1: of the voyager from Puerto Rico, in the island of Hispaniola,
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  Speaker 1: jue Ponce de Leon set sail in March fifteen twelve.
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  Speaker 1: From the folklore of the natives of Hispaniola, he had
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  Speaker 1: learned that the fabled fountain would be found in Bimini,
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  Speaker 1: a little island of the Bahama Group. He had authority
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  Speaker 1: from the king to conquer Bimini. His course, however, led
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  Speaker 1: him too far to the westward, and on March twenty seventh,
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  Speaker 1: the u the white Sands of the Southern Peninsula came
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  Speaker 1: in sight. It was Pascua Florida or Easter Sunday, and
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  Speaker 1: the new land was named Florida Terra Florida. It has
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  Speaker 1: been ever since, not only because Ponce de Leon reached
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  Speaker 1: it on Pascua, Florida, but because it is a land
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  Speaker 1: of flowers. On April second, Ponce de Leon landed at
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  Speaker 1: about thirty degrees north, but sailed away again, immediately making
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  Speaker 1: his way around the peninsula to latitude twenty seven degrees
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  Speaker 1: thirty minutes, whence he sailed home. In fifteen twenty one,
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  Speaker 1: he returned to colonize his territory. The Indians met him
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  Speaker 1: with savage resistance, and instead of the Fountain of Perpetual Youth,
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  Speaker 1: he found defeat, receiving an arrow wound, which resulted in
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  Speaker 1: a lingering illness and his death in Cuba. The portion
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  Speaker 1: of the state of Florida to be considered in this
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  Speaker 1: article lies between longitude three degrees and six degrees thirty
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  Speaker 1: minutes west of Washington and between twenty four degrees thirty
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  Speaker 1: minutes and thirty degrees north latitude. It has the Atlantic
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  Speaker 1: Ocean on the east, the Gulf of Mexico on the west,
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  Speaker 1: and the Strait of Florida on the south. Close to
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  Speaker 1: its eastern shore is the Gulf Stream, in many places
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  Speaker 1: not more than two miles distant. The geology of Florida
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  Speaker 1: presents no grave or complicated problems. Lying immediately beneath the
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  Speaker 1: surface is a limestone which persists through the entire length
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  Speaker 1: of the state. This doubtless belongs to the Eocene system.
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  Speaker 1: The limestone, which forms the crest of a fold known
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  Speaker 1: as the Ridge, is very permeable by water. It is
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  Speaker 1: characterized by enormous stinkholes and subterranean streams. It forms the
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  Speaker 1: beds of the Middle Rivers and of the countless lakes.
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  Speaker 1: Lying to the west of this limestone ridge are those
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  Speaker 1: marvelous deposits of phosphates which are found along the west
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  Speaker 1: coast of the peninsula. East of the Ridge, and more
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  Speaker 1: especially where it approaches the Atlantic, we find the Cachina
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  Speaker 1: beds of sand and shells, which, with varying struct form
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  Speaker 1: the barrier between the sea and Great Coastal Lagoon. The
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  Speaker 1: peninsula naturally separates into three divisions, the middle portion, which
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  Speaker 1: comprises the beautiful lake region, the West coast, which slopes
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  Speaker 1: away from the high Ridge to the Gulf of Mexico,
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  Speaker 1: and the East coast, whose sandy levels are protected from
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  Speaker 1: the Atlantic by the Great Cochina Atoll, extending from the
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  Speaker 1: mouth of the Saint Johns River to the shores of
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  Speaker 1: Lake Worth. Each of these divisions differs wholly from the others,
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  Speaker 1: presenting conditions and characteristics peculiar to itself. Middle Florida is
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  Speaker 1: a broad ridge which reaches at places an elevation of
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  Speaker 1: nearly two hundred and fifty feet. The soil is for
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  Speaker 1: the most part sandy, but like that of the state
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  Speaker 1: in general, it contains a sufficient quantity of phosphate to
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  Speaker 1: render it fertile. Forests of pine are everywhere. Here and
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  Speaker 1: there a cypress swamp varies the scene, and now and
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  Speaker 1: then a palmetto hammock suggests the approach of the tropics.
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  Speaker 1: It is in this division the Lake region is found.
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  Speaker 1: Dotting the landscape like jewels of crystal in a field
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  Speaker 1: of green, are numberless lakes, varying in size from a
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  Speaker 1: gem like lakelet to the broad expanse of Okeechobee. Within
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  Speaker 1: a radius of five miles from winter Haven, one hundred
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  Speaker 1: have been counted, and within seven miles of Orlando there
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  Speaker 1: are known to be one hundred and fifty. With Gainesville
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  Speaker 1: as its northern limit and including Lake Okicho beyond the south,
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  Speaker 1: this region contains, at a conservative estimate, at least thirty
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  Speaker 1: thousand of these lakes and lakelets. They are not as
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  Speaker 1: many imagine the result of surface drainage or the reservoirs
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  Speaker 1: of sluggish streams. Many of them find their chief supply
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  Speaker 1: in the hidden sources of the great limestone which forms
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  Speaker 1: their beds, and some of them are connected by subterranean channels.
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  Speaker 1: It has frequently been observed that the fall of one
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  Speaker 1: means the rise of another. In some cases, the water
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  Speaker 1: has disappeared entirely for a long period, only to return again,
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  Speaker 1: sometimes quite unexpectedly. Their water are pure, and they abound
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  Speaker 1: in fish. Clustered around them are the homes of thousands
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  Speaker 1: of people who have been driven south by diseases of
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  Speaker 1: the throat and lungs. The pine forests, the dry soil,
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  Speaker 1: the elevation above the not distant coast, the soft air,
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  Speaker 1: and the healing sunshine ensure almost entire immunity from pulmonary affections.
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  Speaker 1: It is in this region that many of the great
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  Speaker 1: springs of Florida are found. The famous Silver Spring lies
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  Speaker 1: just on the edge of the Middle Belt, the Leon Spring,
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  Speaker 1: fabled as Youth's Fountain, and the strange Blue Spring, with
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  Speaker 1: its ultramarine waters are the most notable of these whims
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  Speaker 1: of nature. The West Coast region slopes gently away from
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  Speaker 1: the Middle Ridge until it touches the Gulf. It is
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  Speaker 1: traversed by rivers whose beauty it is impossible to describe.
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  Speaker 1: Rising in swamps and morasses, they make their way by
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  Speaker 1: countless windings to the gulf. Overheads, the trees twine their
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  Speaker 1: branches into one unbroken cannon, shutting out the sunlight. Other
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  Speaker 1: banks are lands of great fertility, devoted in some cases
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  Speaker 1: to grazing and in others to gardens whose early products
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  Speaker 1: reach the north while that region is still enveloped in
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  Speaker 1: ice and snow. The far famed Suani River rises in
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  Speaker 1: the edge of the Okefanoki Swamp in Georgia, and after
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  Speaker 1: a course of two hundred and forty miles, empties into
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  Speaker 1: the Gulf. The with Lakuchi takes its rise just west
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  Speaker 1: of Kissimi, and, after almost losing itself in the spread
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  Speaker 1: of its waters, eventually reaches the Gulf and with Lakuchi Bay.
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  Speaker 1: The Kalusahatchie has its headwaters in the secret recesses of
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  Speaker 1: the Okulukuchi sloth and as it approaches the coast it
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  Speaker 1: widens into a majestic stream through the drainage canal of
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  Speaker 1: the distant Company. It is connected with Lake Flirt, Lake Hikpochi,
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  Speaker 1: and Lake Okeechobee. A voyage unique in every circumstance, may
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  Speaker 1: be made by steamer from Punti Rasa, following the river,
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  Speaker 1: the lakes or the canal as far inland as Kissimi,
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  Speaker 1: where one sees the spreading cane fields redeemed by drainage
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  Speaker 1: at Saint Cloud. Along the brinks and in the beds
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  Speaker 1: of these streams are found one of Florida's chief sources
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  Speaker 1: of wealth, the Great Phosphate deposits. These deposits furnish the
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  Speaker 1: purest form of phosphate of lime found in nature, a
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  Speaker 1: fact especially significant of the manner in which the minerals
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  Speaker 1: of the West Coast have in general been deposited. Hundreds
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  Speaker 1: of thousands of tons are taken annually to Tampa, Pontagorda,
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  Speaker 1: and Fernandina to be forwarded to foreign ports or American
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  Speaker 1: manufactories for conversion into commercial fertilizers. There are also here
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  Speaker 1: enormous bodies of sedimentary limestone, Fuller's earth and calnin, all
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  Speaker 1: of unusual purity due to the peculiar conditions of their deposition.
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  Speaker 1: The Gulf coast is indented by many bays. These bays,
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  Speaker 1: from Swanny to Sanibel, are dotted with tropical islands, and
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  Speaker 1: are bounded on the one side by the coasts of
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  Speaker 1: unfailing Verdure, and on the other by the blue waters
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  Speaker 1: of the Gulf. Chief of these are the Tampa Bay
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  Speaker 1: and show At Harbor, the terminals of two great railway systems.
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  Speaker 1: Here one may take the steamer for the West Indies
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  Speaker 1: or South America, or, choosing a smaller craft, find endless summer.
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  Speaker 1: He may go with the sponger who plies his trade
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  Speaker 1: on the great sponge reefs in the Gulf, may ply
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  Speaker 1: the open waters for the silver king of the sea,
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  Speaker 1: the Tarpuan, Or may find in the interior whatever his
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  Speaker 1: heart desires, in the chase for deer and bear, or
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  Speaker 1: in that supreme idleness to which the climate induces. Dividing
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  Speaker 1: the middle region of the Lakes from the East coast
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  Speaker 1: is Saint John's River. This river enters the Atlantic at
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  Speaker 1: Mayport in a broad, open sweep of water running parallel
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  Speaker 1: with the Atlantic coast. It is navigable southward as far
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  Speaker 1: as Sandford. At some points narrow and crooked. It elsewhere
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  Speaker 1: widens into sheets like Lake George, five miles wide and
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  Speaker 1: fifteen miles long, never more than thirty miles from the ocean.
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  Speaker 1: Its head waters are not ten miles from the Great Lagoon,
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  Speaker 1: in Helpatioki Swamp, a sall grass region. Not unlike the Everglades,
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  Speaker 1: the scenery of this Great River changes continually. Banks that
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  Speaker 1: are green with cypresus and fragrant with magnolia and honeysuckle
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  Speaker 1: give place to orange groves and gardens, or widened out
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  Speaker 1: into a prairie fringed with low palmettos, over whose tops
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  Speaker 1: high pines appear. The chief tributary of the Saint John's
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  Speaker 1: is the Oklawaha, whose windings through intricate masses of vegetation
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  Speaker 1: by floating islands and bayous haunted by alligators, afford a
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  Speaker 1: voyage of rare beauty. The east coast proper is formed
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  Speaker 1: by the Coquina Ledge, which is found all the way
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  Speaker 1: from Anastasia Island to the southern limit of Palm Beach.
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  Speaker 1: This ledge, for varying distance along its western border, encloses
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  Speaker 1: the Great Lagoon. This lagoon is known by various names.
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  Speaker 1: In its extreme northern development, it is the North River,
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  Speaker 1: then the Matansas. Here the ledge shuts off the sea
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  Speaker 1: until it reaches Smiths and Malaicompra Creeks. Beyond this, the
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  Speaker 1: estuary has its own way, forming the Hillsborough, Halifax, Banana,
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  Speaker 1: Indian and Jupiters and Lake Worth. The southern end of
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  Speaker 1: the lagoon is in Lake Worth, unless it should hereafter
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  Speaker 1: be discovered that the Cocina Ledge continues to Cape Florida,
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  Speaker 1: in which case Boca Raton, New River Inlet and Dumbfoundling
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  Speaker 1: Bay will be included. The lagoon is sometimes a broad
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  Speaker 1: deep stream, sometimes a shallow bayou or lake of brackish water.
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  Speaker 1: It is flanked on either side by the characteristic belts
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  Speaker 1: of the coast. First comes the white sand beach, which
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  Speaker 1: is succeeded by sand dunes covered with beech grass, sea oats,
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  Speaker 1: wild morning glory and saupalmetto, changing to red bays and cedars.
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  Speaker 1: This is often succeeded by a half hammock of tall
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  Speaker 1: trees and vines. Inside the lagoon is the very fertile
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  Speaker 1: belt of the high Hammock, composed mostly of oyster shells
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  Speaker 1: and fringed on its western end, with pine. Following this
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  Speaker 1: is the low Hammock of deep, black, exhaustless soil, the
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  Speaker 1: growths of which are picturesque and tropical, And last the
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  Speaker 1: yellow pine or flat woods, where the Negro and the
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  Speaker 1: Cracker find their home. Between the arms of the lagoon,
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  Speaker 1: a channel sixty feet wide and six feet deep has
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  Speaker 1: recently been dredged, with the result that one will be
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  Speaker 1: able this winter to enter the lagoon at Saint Augustine
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  Speaker 1: in a nafta launch or houseboat, and sail all the
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  Speaker 1: way to Babiscayne. Leaving Saint Augustine with its old Spanish
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  Speaker 1: streets and frowning fortress of San Marco, the voyage lies
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  Speaker 1: through leafialleys of verderous valleys to ormond on the Halifax.
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  Speaker 1: Further south lie Daytona and New Smyrna, the site of
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  Speaker 1: old Indigo and canefields, English failure and minorcan misfortune. Next
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  Speaker 1: come canaveral lights and at length the broad pineapple fields
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  Speaker 1: of the Indian River, Then the narrows of the Indian
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  Speaker 1: and Jupiter Rivers to Jupiter Light. A canal passes into
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  Speaker 1: Lake Worth, where nature and art have combined to produce
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  Speaker 1: tropical conditions. Thence it extends to New River, and by
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  Speaker 1: succeeding reach of river and creek and canal into Babis
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  Speaker 1: Gain thence south through Babis Gayne inside the quays, or
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  Speaker 1: outside the Keys through Hawk Channel took west. The products
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  Speaker 1: of the peninsula are so well known that I give
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  Speaker 1: them but a passing notice. The orange was for many
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  Speaker 1: years the chief object of labor and culture. In eighteen
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  Speaker 1: ninety three to ninety four the crop reached the enormous
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  Speaker 1: output of five million, five hundred thousand boxes. Then the
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  Speaker 1: frost killed to the roots. Ninety percent of the trees.
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  Speaker 1: Sixty percent of these grew again from the roots, and
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  Speaker 1: some will bear this year three years. Hence the crop
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  Speaker 1: will probably aggregate five million boxes. A country of one crop, however,
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  Speaker 1: is like a man with a pet virtue of doubtful character.
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  Speaker 1: And Florida has learned the lesson of the freeze to
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  Speaker 1: good effect. Next to the orange is the pineapple, of
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  Speaker 1: which this year probably eighty thousand grates have been shipped.
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  Speaker 1: Added to these, everything in the nature of fruit or
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  Speaker 1: vegetable that the temperate zone produces may be found ripening
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  Speaker 1: in our gardens for shipment to the north. While the
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  Speaker 1: farms and gardens and orchards of that region are yet
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  Speaker 1: deep in the sleep of winter. The climate of the
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  Speaker 1: peninsula presents so many phases that only an exhaustive study
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  Speaker 1: can do it justice. The chief interest, however, centers in
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  Speaker 1: its winter conditions. The disposition to escape from the rigors
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  Speaker 1: of the northern winter is gradually increasing, and the number
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  Speaker 1: of people able to do so is likewise on the increase.
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  Speaker 1: Such meager details as it is practicable to introduce into
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  Speaker 1: this article but poorly express the actual experience at Tampa
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  Speaker 1: during December eighteen ninety five and January and February eighteen
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  Speaker 1: ninety six. The following observations were made. Maximum for the
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  Speaker 1: period observed eighty degrees minimum thirty two degrees mean fifty
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  Speaker 1: nine degrees. Greatest daily range thirty two degrees, average number
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  Speaker 1: of clear days per month, twelve of partly cloudy, twelfth
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  Speaker 1: of cloudy six. At Jacksonville for the same period, maximum
• 15:52
  Speaker 1: eighty degrees minimum twenty four degrees mean fifty five degrees,
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  Speaker 1: greatest daily range forty one degrees days, fifteen partly cloudy nine,
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  Speaker 1: cloudy six. At Jupiter for the same period, maximum eighty
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  Speaker 1: three degrees minimum thirty seven degrees mean sixty three degrees,
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  Speaker 1: greatest daily range twenty four degrees, clear days eight, partly
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  Speaker 1: cloudy thirteen, and cloudy nine. These figures show that the
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  Speaker 1: climate becomes more equable as you go southward. This is
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  Speaker 1: equally true of the coasts and of the interior, the
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  Speaker 1: winter climate of the lake region being of great equability
• 16:34
  Speaker 1: for all varieties of pulmonary disease. The middle region is
• 16:38
  Speaker 1: a genial sanitarium. The east coast particularly affords relief for
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  Speaker 1: all forms of what is called American itis or nerve exhaustion.
• 16:46
  Speaker 1: That the climate is eminently suited either for rest or
• 16:49
  Speaker 1: for increased mental activity and labor, I can bear personal
• 16:53
  Speaker 1: testimony it is the climate par excellence for the student.
• 16:58
  Speaker 1: In March eighteen ninety two, James E. Ingram conceived the
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  Speaker 1: idea of and at once proceeded to organize an expedition
• 17:05
  Speaker 1: for the exploration of the Everglades. The expedition experienced the
• 17:10
  Speaker 1: greatest hardships, but its object was accomplished, and it is
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  Speaker 1: chiefly to its records that I am indebted for the
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  Speaker 1: following description. The Everglades consist of two great basins lying
• 17:20
  Speaker 1: between Lake Okeechobee and the extreme southern point of the peninsula.
• 17:25
  Speaker 1: The floor and rim of these basins are formed of
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  Speaker 1: a limestone, which is doubtless a continuation of the rock
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  Speaker 1: composing the central ridge or backbone of the state. On
• 17:34
  Speaker 1: the edges or rim, where the rock is exposed, it
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  Speaker 1: presents a very singular appearance. Here it is weathered and
• 17:40
  Speaker 1: water worn into the peculiar shapes which gave rise to
• 17:43
  Speaker 1: the early opinion that Florida was of coraline formation. The
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  Speaker 1: pressure of the floods of water pouring over the sides
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  Speaker 1: or through the edges of this rim has worn away
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  Speaker 1: the softer portions of the rock, leaving the harder substance
• 17:56
  Speaker 1: to present a somewhat coral like structure, the color from
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  Speaker 1: cream to dark brown owing to the black water so
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  Speaker 1: called which issues from the glades. This rock not only
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  Speaker 1: persists throughout the Glades as far as explored, but seems
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  Speaker 1: also to be present in the river beds to the south,
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  Speaker 1: through which the water of the Glades finds an outlet.
• 18:17
  Speaker 1: To the north, the water empties into Lake Okeechobee. To
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  Speaker 1: the west, south and east, it flows through various rivers
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  Speaker 1: into the Atlantic and the Gulf. The evident elevation of
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  Speaker 1: the area above the east, west, and south coasts precludes
• 18:31
  Speaker 1: the idea of drainage from surrounding areas, and we must
• 18:34
  Speaker 1: look elsewhere for the sources of the water. These I
• 18:38
  Speaker 1: think are found in part in precipitation and in part
• 18:41
  Speaker 1: in subterranean streams or springs. The rainfall over this vast
• 18:45
  Speaker 1: area of three million acres must be very great, but
• 18:49
  Speaker 1: when we remember that all the creeks and rivers lead
• 18:52
  Speaker 1: out of and not into the glades, the rainfall, which
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  Speaker 1: possibly approximates an average of ten inches per month during
• 18:59
  Speaker 1: the months of June, June, July, and August, is not sufficient.
• 19:02
  Speaker 1: From what we know as to the subterranean relations between
• 19:06
  Speaker 1: the lakes in the Lake region, from the well known
• 19:08
  Speaker 1: conditions of Silver, Blue and Delionic springs, as well as
• 19:12
  Speaker 1: from data acquired by drilling for artesian water, it is
• 19:16
  Speaker 1: reasonable to infer that the volume of water due to
• 19:19
  Speaker 1: precipitation is materially increased by an underground supply. As some
• 19:24
  Speaker 1: justification of this assumption, I may mention a spring which
• 19:27
  Speaker 1: has its issue from the Rocky Rim just below the
• 19:30
  Speaker 1: falls of the Miami River. Over the Rocky Ledge. The
• 19:33
  Speaker 1: dark brown water of the glade pours itself in a
• 19:36
  Speaker 1: turbulent flood into the rapids of the Miami, but only
• 19:40
  Speaker 1: a little distance below the falls, and exposed to view
• 19:43
  Speaker 1: during the period of low water in the glade, the
• 19:45
  Speaker 1: clear and uncolored volume of a huge spring gives itself
• 19:49
  Speaker 1: up to the sunshine. The quality of the water is
• 19:52
  Speaker 1: entirely different from that of the glades, and as far
• 19:55
  Speaker 1: as I have been able to observe, is unsurpassed in
• 19:58
  Speaker 1: purity the glades. From either east or west, the water
• 20:02
  Speaker 1: gradually deepens the rock forming the floor of the basin,
• 20:06
  Speaker 1: receding toward the middle at the rate of about eight
• 20:09
  Speaker 1: point six inches to the mile in the valley thus formed,
• 20:12
  Speaker 1: running north and south, the rock is about fifteen feet
• 20:16
  Speaker 1: below the surface. It is traceable directly across the glade,
• 20:20
  Speaker 1: leaving no manner of doubt as to its persistence. Immediately
• 20:24
  Speaker 1: over the rock is deposited the result of ages of
• 20:27
  Speaker 1: decayed vegetation, forming a soft peat or mook, the depth
• 20:31
  Speaker 1: of which varies from a few inches to five feet.
• 20:35
  Speaker 1: It is everywhere present over the floor of the great basins,
• 20:38
  Speaker 1: and if ever drained, will afford a soil of incalculable
• 20:42
  Speaker 1: richness and fertility. For miles east and west from the
• 20:45
  Speaker 1: valley of the basin, and north and south. Through its length,
• 20:49
  Speaker 1: there stretches an almost impassable prairie.
• 20:51
  Speaker 2: Of saw grass.
• 20:52
  Speaker 1: This sawgrass, rooted in the mook, grows to enormous size
• 20:56
  Speaker 1: and in many instances resembles a bamboo pole of the
• 20:59
  Speaker 1: size of an ordinary fishing rod, with a continuous barbed
• 21:03
  Speaker 1: wire covering on three sides of the grass grow teeth
• 21:06
  Speaker 1: of singular sharpness, sometimes an inch in length. Through this
• 21:10
  Speaker 1: prairie of sawgrass. Clear waterways are found here and there.
• 21:14
  Speaker 1: Their direction is generally southward, and any attempt to cross
• 21:18
  Speaker 1: the glades from west to east, as was the case
• 21:20
  Speaker 1: with mister Ingram's expedition, is attended with great hardship and difficulty.
• 21:26
  Speaker 1: Owing to the southerly trend of the glades proper. It
• 21:29
  Speaker 1: sometimes became necessary for the members of the expedition, while
• 21:32
  Speaker 1: carrying on their shoulders the camp outfit, to cling to
• 21:35
  Speaker 1: the boats to prevent permanent bogging and an awful death
• 21:38
  Speaker 1: in the sticky peat and ooze of the bottom. For
• 21:41
  Speaker 1: the white man. The passage of the glades means wading, poling,
• 21:44
  Speaker 1: and portage, not unfrequently through the densest of the grass
• 21:48
  Speaker 1: through which he sometimes has to blaze his way. The Indian,
• 21:52
  Speaker 1: who has time on his hands, accommodates himself to the
• 21:55
  Speaker 1: provisions of nature. He follows the path of the open waters,
• 21:58
  Speaker 1: and through years of experience, has learned the apparently trackless
• 22:02
  Speaker 1: way to his homestead or to the outside world. Frequently,
• 22:06
  Speaker 1: during mister Ingram's expedition, the entire distance covered by a
• 22:10
  Speaker 1: day of most arduous toil would not exceed two and
• 22:13
  Speaker 1: a half or three miles. When night came on, nothing
• 22:16
  Speaker 1: but sawgrass was in sight, and the camp was made
• 22:19
  Speaker 1: on the spot, the making of camp consisting merely in
• 22:22
  Speaker 1: cutting away the sawgrass tops to a level, spreading out
• 22:26
  Speaker 1: upon them the rubber blankets, and over these the clothing
• 22:29
  Speaker 1: for protection, and the cheese cloth netting as a safeguard
• 22:32
  Speaker 1: from sandflies and mosquitoes. This somewhat uncomfortable mode of camping
• 22:37
  Speaker 1: gave the party opportunities for observing and repeatedly verifying the
• 22:41
  Speaker 1: marvelous growth of the everglade bamboo. It was frequently noted
• 22:45
  Speaker 1: that the inner part of the cut grasses grew fully
• 22:48
  Speaker 1: three fourths of an inch during a single night. Mosquitoes
• 22:52
  Speaker 1: are plentiful enough, and sundflies exist in large numbers, but
• 22:55
  Speaker 1: the greatest pest is the alligator flee. This creature lives
• 22:59
  Speaker 1: in the glade water and has all the characteristics of
• 23:01
  Speaker 1: his two namesakes. He is as strong as the alligator,
• 23:05
  Speaker 1: as active as the pulux irritants, and his sudden sting
• 23:09
  Speaker 1: has all the directness and keenness of that of the hornet.
• 23:13
  Speaker 1: He is an oblong insect, brown in color, spongy and substance,
• 23:17
  Speaker 1: and about three sixteenths of an inch in length. For
• 23:20
  Speaker 1: eight or ten miles on either edge of the glades,
• 23:22
  Speaker 1: the conditions change materially. Thousands of islands, varying in size
• 23:27
  Speaker 1: from one eighth of an acre to several acres, greet
• 23:30
  Speaker 1: the eye. On these islands, the soil is phenomenally rich,
• 23:33
  Speaker 1: and giant ferns, the fronts of which measure twelve feet
• 23:37
  Speaker 1: in length, grow upon their edges. The virgin forest is
• 23:41
  Speaker 1: composed of the wild lemon, wild cucumber, and wild orange,
• 23:46
  Speaker 1: the dogwood, the custard apple, the prickly ash, and hundreds
• 23:50
  Speaker 1: of other varieties. Overhead, the myrtle and morning glory mingle
• 23:55
  Speaker 1: in tangled masses with countless varieties of tropical vines in
• 23:59
  Speaker 1: the early summer after the annual overflow. The entry of
• 24:03
  Speaker 1: the eastern region by the Miami River is singularly beautiful,
• 24:07
  Speaker 1: where a few weeks before the flood covered everything is
• 24:10
  Speaker 1: now a green prairie, and through the green gleam the
• 24:13
  Speaker 1: delicate yellow and pink of numberless orchids. The emerald hued
• 24:17
  Speaker 1: islands are vocal with the songs of birds, and one
• 24:21
  Speaker 1: can walk the now dry pathway of the waters, keeping time,
• 24:24
  Speaker 1: perchance to the direpacin of some aged alligator bellowing away
• 24:29
  Speaker 1: in a creek nearby. Unappreciated and undisturbed. The great volume
• 24:34
  Speaker 1: of water in the Glades finds many courses to the sea.
• 24:37
  Speaker 1: The Northern Basin empties its surplus into Lake Okeechobee, from
• 24:41
  Speaker 1: which it passes by the distant drainish canal, through Lake
• 24:45
  Speaker 1: Hikpochee and Lake Flirt into the Calusahatchie River, and thence
• 24:50
  Speaker 1: into the Gulf. In exceptionally wet seasons, the Northern Basin
• 24:54
  Speaker 1: overflows its southern rim and contributes to the volume of
• 24:58
  Speaker 1: the greater Southern Glade. These southern waters pour out through east,
• 25:02
  Speaker 1: south and southwest channels. Some portion of the volume doubtless
• 25:07
  Speaker 1: furnishes the supply for the big Cypress Swamp. The remainder
• 25:12
  Speaker 1: finds outlet through Gullovans, the Chocoluski, the Facanachi, the Chatham,
• 25:18
  Speaker 1: the Rogers, the Shark, the Harne, the Ingram, and numerous
• 25:23
  Speaker 1: smaller rivers and creeks. To the south. There has not
• 25:26
  Speaker 1: been sufficient exploration to furnish reliable data, but the Seminole
• 25:31
  Speaker 1: tells of a southern outlet which is doubtless cheese cut,
• 25:34
  Speaker 1: and which furnishes the peculiar color of Blackwater Bay. On
• 25:38
  Speaker 1: the east, the outlets are numerous, beginning with the Hillsboro River.
• 25:42
  Speaker 1: On the north, the Great Flood finds its way into
• 25:45
  Speaker 1: the Atlantic through the Middle River, Cypress Creek, New River,
• 25:49
  Speaker 1: Snake River, Arch Creek, Little River, and the Miami. The
• 25:53
  Speaker 1: islands in the Everglades have long been inhabited by the Seminole.
• 25:58
  Speaker 1: His Cypress dugout follows the path of the waters from
• 26:01
  Speaker 1: the outside world to his homestead. He lives in comparative civilization.
• 26:06
  Speaker 1: Using some specially high and fertile island, He clears away
• 26:10
  Speaker 1: enough of the dense growth to make a garden. Here
• 26:13
  Speaker 1: he grows bananas, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables. He is
• 26:17
  Speaker 1: reasonably industrious and does his own work, leaving it only
• 26:21
  Speaker 1: to hunt or to attend the symbolic dances of the tribe.
• 26:25
  Speaker 1: For many years his chief support was derived from the
• 26:27
  Speaker 1: sale of bird pelts and the growing of kunti, the
• 26:31
  Speaker 1: arrowroot of Florida, but the one has been rendered illegal
• 26:34
  Speaker 1: and the other unprofitable. His home is usually a somewhat
• 26:38
  Speaker 1: crude hut made of rough boards riven from the log
• 26:41
  Speaker 1: and covered with a thatch of palmetto. The women of
• 26:44
  Speaker 1: the seminole are treated as women, the rearing of the
• 26:48
  Speaker 1: children and the cares of the household being their only labor.
• 26:51
  Speaker 1: As the tribe is gradually diminishing in numbers, an abundant
• 26:55
  Speaker 1: game supply is found in the water Band reservation and
• 26:58
  Speaker 1: in the Big Cypress. Deer, bear and the wild turkey
• 27:03
  Speaker 1: are found in fair quantity, and countless herons and ducks
• 27:06
  Speaker 1: have their perpetual home on the islands. The wild cat
• 27:10
  Speaker 1: and the panther are also found in moderate numbers, while
• 27:13
  Speaker 1: the alligator is always in evidence, with now and then
• 27:17
  Speaker 1: a crocodile. The fine array of venomous snakes of the
• 27:20
  Speaker 1: early geographies is not to be found in the eastern Glades,
• 27:23
  Speaker 1: an occasional moccasin only appearing. The average distance from the
• 27:28
  Speaker 1: rim of the Glades to the coast is on the
• 27:30
  Speaker 1: south and southwest about fifteen miles, on the east about
• 27:34
  Speaker 1: six miles, and on the west about fifty miles. West
• 27:38
  Speaker 1: of the Glades lie the Okalukuchi Slough and the Big
• 27:42
  Speaker 1: Cypress Swamp. Southwest of the Big Cypress and south of
• 27:46
  Speaker 1: the Everglades, exploration is fraught with so many difficulties that
• 27:49
  Speaker 1: the country remains to a large extent unknown. Along the
• 27:54
  Speaker 1: greater rivers such as Fakanachie, Harnee, Rogers, and Ingram, the
• 27:59
  Speaker 1: land lie very low, a little higher, usually on the
• 28:02
  Speaker 1: south bank than the north. These banks are subject to
• 28:06
  Speaker 1: overflow continuing through a considerable period during the spring. This
• 28:11
  Speaker 1: makes the region practically unavailable for settlement. The banks of
• 28:15
  Speaker 1: many of these rivers are covered with a growth of
• 28:17
  Speaker 1: black and red mangrove, which grow here to the giant sizes,
• 28:21
  Speaker 1: comparatively speaking of fifty to seventy five feet in height
• 28:26
  Speaker 1: and twenty four to thirty inches in diameter. When the
• 28:29
  Speaker 1: mangrove is not present, there is a dense hammock growth
• 28:32
  Speaker 1: springing from a soil of wonderful richness, composed of mook
• 28:36
  Speaker 1: with an underlying green marl, below which the ever presence
• 28:39
  Speaker 1: limestone is found inside the hammock, and next the rim
• 28:43
  Speaker 1: of the glades is the usual prairie fringe. On the
• 28:47
  Speaker 1: south coast of the peninsula, there is almost no shoreline.
• 28:50
  Speaker 1: The dense forests of mangrove have reached out so far
• 28:54
  Speaker 1: into the bays that the shoreline is merely an impenetrable
• 28:57
  Speaker 1: tangle of roots. The weight of a man's body is
• 29:01
  Speaker 1: enough to impart a swaying motion to three or four
• 29:04
  Speaker 1: acres of this floating forest. Off the coast and extending
• 29:08
  Speaker 1: to the northwest for many miles, are countless islands or keys.
• 29:13
  Speaker 1: These keys are covered with a dense growth of mangrove
• 29:16
  Speaker 1: on the edges, while further in the sea grape, wild fig, pawpaw,
• 29:20
  Speaker 1: and buttonwood abound. On many of them. There have been
• 29:24
  Speaker 1: observed for years what appeared to be shell mounds, not
• 29:27
  Speaker 1: differing in general appearance from other shell mounds. Through the narrow,
• 29:31
  Speaker 1: sunkissed channels of these ten thousand islands, the sponger, the conch,
• 29:37
  Speaker 1: and the smuggler sailed for years. The settler in search
• 29:41
  Speaker 1: of lands, and the sportsman looking for a camp pass
• 29:44
  Speaker 1: them by in contempt. But under the mangrove roots and
• 29:48
  Speaker 1: the tangle of vines there slept the civilization of past centuries.
• 29:53
  Speaker 1: These keys, with their strange shell heaps, are cities of
• 29:56
  Speaker 1: the dead, and the magic touch of mister Frank Hamilton
• 30:00
  Speaker 1: Pushing has brought them into life. At Key Marco. He
• 30:04
  Speaker 1: has brought to light evidences of a culture belonging to
• 30:07
  Speaker 1: the Stone Age, yet surpassing it amazingly in beauty. Here
• 30:11
  Speaker 1: dwelt a strange people who built sea walls of shells
• 30:15
  Speaker 1: and made themselves water courts and temples on the Gulf shore,
• 30:19
  Speaker 1: working amazing results in pottery and copper with shark's teeth
• 30:24
  Speaker 1: and fish bones. How much more of this early civilization
• 30:28
  Speaker 1: awaits research It is impossible to tell, but mister Cushing's
• 30:32
  Speaker 1: work has made the southwestern coast of the Peninsula a
• 30:35
  Speaker 1: shrine for the student and a mine of wealth for
• 30:37
  Speaker 1: the worker. In archaeology, it would hardly be possible to
• 30:41
  Speaker 1: imagine in coast conditions a greater contrast than exists between
• 30:45
  Speaker 1: these southern and southwestern coasts of Florida and the coast
• 30:50
  Speaker 1: lined to the east of the Everglades. As one crosses
• 30:53
  Speaker 1: the rim of the Glades basin, the inevitable prairie is
• 30:57
  Speaker 1: first met with. This is a verir but of remarkable fertility.
• 31:03
  Speaker 1: Passing eastward, it is succeeded by the Pinelands Belt, which
• 31:06
  Speaker 1: in turn gives place to a hammock growth that is
• 31:09
  Speaker 1: of its own kind. This new hammock fringes the inner
• 31:13
  Speaker 1: shore of Bay Biscayne, which including Cards Sound, has a
• 31:17
  Speaker 1: shoreline of nearly sixty miles. To the utter surprise of
• 31:22
  Speaker 1: the student of Floridian scenery and geology, this shoreline is
• 31:26
  Speaker 1: a rocky bluff. It is composed of a limestone yet unidentified, which,
• 31:31
  Speaker 1: when first exposed, is soft and friable. It gives evidence
• 31:36
  Speaker 1: of a slow, still water bedding here and there. It
• 31:39
  Speaker 1: contains quantities of small shells. Exposed, it weathers to a
• 31:44
  Speaker 1: rich gray and hardens sufficiently to make excellent building stone.
• 31:49
  Speaker 1: In many localities inland, for a mile the rock is
• 31:52
  Speaker 1: on the surface, but for the most part it is
• 31:55
  Speaker 1: covered with rich vegetable mold. The hammock surpasses all others
• 31:59
  Speaker 1: of Florida in the variety of its woods. The familiar
• 32:03
  Speaker 1: wild mulberry, red bay, and live oak are here. With
• 32:07
  Speaker 1: them grow the wild fig or rubber tree, the gumbo, limbo,
• 32:11
  Speaker 1: iron wood, mustic, naked wood, crabwood, and many others. Scattered
• 32:17
  Speaker 1: along the rocky bluff washed by the crystal blue water
• 32:20
  Speaker 1: of Biscayne, are great numbers of wild lemons, limes, and oranges.
• 32:25
  Speaker 1: And over them all from tree to tree climbs the
• 32:28
  Speaker 1: vivid green of a giant vining cactus. It is here
• 32:31
  Speaker 1: too that the coconut palm sends up its giant plume
• 32:35
  Speaker 1: like fronds. The bamboo, transplanted makes itself at home. The
• 32:40
  Speaker 1: century plant, reckless of weather, bears its giant bloom, and
• 32:44
  Speaker 1: the queen of all the trees, the royal palm, graceful
• 32:47
  Speaker 1: beyond description, adds her luxuriance to the tropical beauty of
• 32:51
  Speaker 1: the scene. The rocky front of the inshore of Bay
• 32:54
  Speaker 1: Biscayne is broken by the Miami and other rivers flowing
• 32:58
  Speaker 1: out of the Everglades little north of the Bay into
• 33:01
  Speaker 1: New River Inlet Empties New River. Both of these glade
• 33:05
  Speaker 1: rivers are singularly beautiful, their waters clear and limpid are
• 33:09
  Speaker 1: fringed on either shore by all the wild growths of
• 33:13
  Speaker 1: the hammock, until they make their way through pine and prairie,
• 33:16
  Speaker 1: reflecting every change of scene like mirrors. Through these rivers,
• 33:20
  Speaker 1: the Indians come to the frontier to sell their skins
• 33:23
  Speaker 1: and venison. The distance from the coast to the glades
• 33:26
  Speaker 1: is from six to eight miles under the overlocking branches
• 33:30
  Speaker 1: of trees that are always green. The fall of the
• 33:33
  Speaker 1: Miami River as it leaves the glade is about ten
• 33:36
  Speaker 1: feet in nine hundred, its mouth fringed with lordly coconuts.
• 33:40
  Speaker 1: The Miami empties into the bay. Almost due west of
• 33:44
  Speaker 1: Cape Florida. The southern extremity of Key Biscayne forms Cape Florida,
• 33:49
  Speaker 1: not far from which is the northern end of the
• 33:51
  Speaker 1: Great Florida Reef. South of Cape Florida, here clustered and
• 33:55
  Speaker 1: there widely separated by the opal waters of the Southern Ocean,
• 34:00
  Speaker 1: lies the great system of the Florida Keys, beginning with Sands, Keys,
• 34:04
  Speaker 1: passing Cards Sound, Barns, Sound, and the Bay of Florida,
• 34:09
  Speaker 1: until in the extreme south Key West sits in her isolation,
• 34:13
  Speaker 1: a city of over twenty thousand inhabitants cut off from
• 34:16
  Speaker 1: her sister cities, and compelled to be content with a
• 34:19
  Speaker 1: male twice a week. These keys are a study in themselves.
• 34:24
  Speaker 1: They vary in size from a point of land to
• 34:26
  Speaker 1: Key Largo, which is twenty five miles long, and from
• 34:30
  Speaker 1: one eighth of a mile to two miles in width.
• 34:33
  Speaker 1: This fringe of the continent forms a safe barrier against
• 34:36
  Speaker 1: the sea and in landslocked waters. The voyage from Miami
• 34:39
  Speaker 1: to Key West, whether in midwinter or midsummer, is full
• 34:43
  Speaker 1: of comfort, charm, and beauty. The keys are not barren
• 34:47
  Speaker 1: sand wastes, as was first supposed, but seem to be
• 34:50
  Speaker 1: forms of the same rock as the bluff of Biscayne Bay.
• 34:54
  Speaker 1: They are tropical in plant life, genial in climate, and fertile.
• 34:58
  Speaker 1: Almost beyond belief. The waters of this summer country are beautiful,
• 35:03
  Speaker 1: beyond everything that language or color can express. They are
• 35:07
  Speaker 1: for the most part shallow, but in their greatest depths
• 35:10
  Speaker 1: one sees through their crystal blue the underlying floor of bay,
• 35:15
  Speaker 1: or sound or straight This floor is covered by sea
• 35:18
  Speaker 1: weeds in picturesque tangles and sponges of grotesque form, through
• 35:23
  Speaker 1: and above which myriads of fish flit like flashes of
• 35:27
  Speaker 1: electric light close by the shores. The lazy shark glides
• 35:31
  Speaker 1: along indifferent to your presence. The modest manatee, the strange
• 35:36
  Speaker 1: sea cow hurries away to deeper water from the opalescent surface.
• 35:41
  Speaker 1: The tarpon springs for his prey, the pompano for his pleasure. Overhead,
• 35:46
  Speaker 1: the sun shines brilliantly, but even at midsummer, the trade
• 35:50
  Speaker 1: winds blow so surely, but so soothingly, that there is
• 35:53
  Speaker 1: no sense of heat, and certainly none of oppression, at
• 35:56
  Speaker 1: any season of the year. The fertility of the cell
• 36:00
  Speaker 1: the Eastern coast region is really beyond description. It presents
• 36:04
  Speaker 1: a variety of soils and lands unequaled. Anything known to
• 36:08
  Speaker 1: the north temperate zone except wheat, will grow. The vegetables
• 36:13
  Speaker 1: of the ordinary garden mature and ripen at any period
• 36:16
  Speaker 1: of the year. Planting and gathering run side by side,
• 36:20
  Speaker 1: winter and summer. It is the natural home for all
• 36:23
  Speaker 1: the citrus family, such as lemons, limes, oranges, citrons, grapefruit,
• 36:29
  Speaker 1: and shadock. The pineapple grows and yields almost without attention, mangoes, guava,
• 36:35
  Speaker 1: the alligator pear, the sepodea, the sugar apple, the japan plum,
• 36:40
  Speaker 1: and persimon with numerous other tropical fruits, thrive and yield amazingly.
• 36:46
  Speaker 1: The culture of vanilla, camphor, cola, sincona, cinnamon and coffee
• 36:52
  Speaker 1: has begun with great promise of success. The eastern edge
• 36:55
  Speaker 1: of the southern Everglade furnishes every condition of soil and
• 36:59
  Speaker 1: climate necessary to the culture of the India rubber tree,
• 37:03
  Speaker 1: and whether the glades are ever drained or not, the
• 37:06
  Speaker 1: islands of their eastern edge will furnish the rubber of
• 37:09
  Speaker 1: future commerce. In this favored region, frost is entirely unknown.
• 37:14
  Speaker 1: In addition to its southern latitude, it has two potent
• 37:17
  Speaker 1: protectors close to its eastern shore courses that nursing mother
• 37:22
  Speaker 1: of the sea, the Great Gulf Stream. Westward, the warm
• 37:26
  Speaker 1: waters of the Glades hang a mist veil for fifty
• 37:29
  Speaker 1: miles in the eastern islands of the Glades. The habit
• 37:33
  Speaker 1: of growth shown by the trees proves that frost has
• 37:36
  Speaker 1: never fallen. End of section one.
• 37:46
  Speaker 3: Section two of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven, December
• 37:51
  Speaker 3: eighteen ninety six. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
• 37:55
  Speaker 3: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
• 37:59
  Speaker 3: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. The Sage Plains
• 38:05
  Speaker 3: of Oregon by Frederick V. Coville, botanist of the U.
• 38:09
  Speaker 3: S Department of Agriculture. The states of Washington and Oregon
• 38:15
  Speaker 3: are cut in half from north to south by a
• 38:18
  Speaker 3: great mountain range known as the Cascades. By this schimatic barrier,
• 38:23
  Speaker 3: the eastern portions of these two states are transformed into
• 38:26
  Speaker 3: a great arid plain centering about the valley of the
• 38:29
  Speaker 3: Columbia River. The eastern limit of the plain is the
• 38:34
  Speaker 3: western base of the Bitterroot Mountains toward the north, and
• 38:37
  Speaker 3: of other ranges belonging to the Rocky Mountain system further south.
• 38:42
  Speaker 3: Thus is formed a great wedge shaped area, its base
• 38:46
  Speaker 3: toward the south, where the plains are continuous with those
• 38:49
  Speaker 3: of Nevada, and its apex toward the north, where the
• 38:53
  Speaker 3: plain is finally shut in by the boreal forest belt,
• 38:57
  Speaker 3: which connects the northern end of the bitter Roots with
• 39:00
  Speaker 3: the northern end of the Cascades. Near the center of
• 39:04
  Speaker 3: this triangle, in northeastern Oregon rises a great irregular mass
• 39:10
  Speaker 3: of rock known as the Blue Mountains, which, projecting into
• 39:14
  Speaker 3: the plain from the eastward, almost divides it into two portions,
• 39:19
  Speaker 3: the resultant plains area being roughly of the shape of
• 39:23
  Speaker 3: a dumbbell, the upper half lying in Washington, the lower
• 39:27
  Speaker 3: half in Oregon, and the two connected by a narrow neck.
• 39:31
  Speaker 3: In the mid northern portion of the latter state, the
• 39:35
  Speaker 3: area is drained largely by the Columbia River, which has
• 39:38
  Speaker 3: cut its way through the Cascades to the Pacific. In
• 39:42
  Speaker 3: the southern portion of Oregon, the streams in many places
• 39:46
  Speaker 3: find no outlets to the Shanic waters, but flow into
• 39:50
  Speaker 3: alkaline lakes and marshy sinks, from which their water either
• 39:54
  Speaker 3: percolates into the soil to find an outlet elsewhere, or
• 39:58
  Speaker 3: is evaporated into the ry atmosphere. In altitude, the plains
• 40:04
  Speaker 3: range from less than five hundred feet along the Columbia
• 40:07
  Speaker 3: River valley to four thousand and even five thousand feet
• 40:11
  Speaker 3: in the more distant portions. From north to south in
• 40:16
  Speaker 3: a direct line, the extreme length of the plains is
• 40:19
  Speaker 3: about four hundred fifteen miles from east to west, in
• 40:22
  Speaker 3: the northern portion about one hundred fifty and in the
• 40:26
  Speaker 3: southern portion about two hundred fifty miles, The relatively narrow
• 40:31
  Speaker 3: neck connecting the two being constricted in its narrowest part
• 40:35
  Speaker 3: to not more than fifteen miles. The first white men
• 40:40
  Speaker 3: to penetrate this region were those belonging to the expedition
• 40:44
  Speaker 3: of Lewis and Clark, who crossed the bitter Root Mountains
• 40:47
  Speaker 3: from the east in the summer of eighteen o five
• 40:50
  Speaker 3: and traveled laboriously across the plains and then down the
• 40:54
  Speaker 3: valley of the Columbia to the ocean. The subsequent history
• 40:58
  Speaker 3: of eastern Oregon may be divided into the period of
• 41:01
  Speaker 3: occupation by the Hudson's Bay Company and other fur dealing organizations,
• 41:07
  Speaker 3: then the period of gold mining excitement, and finally the
• 41:10
  Speaker 3: period of agricultural settlement, beginning with the Grand Rand and
• 41:15
  Speaker 3: stretching out to other less attractive localities. Two decades ago,
• 41:21
  Speaker 3: the plains of eastern Oregon south of the Blue Mountains
• 41:25
  Speaker 3: were practically an unsettled region. It was then generally recognized
• 41:30
  Speaker 3: that the country was capable of producing a good quality
• 41:33
  Speaker 3: of beef in enormous amounts, and available land was rapidly
• 41:37
  Speaker 3: taken up, chiefly under homestead entries, so that now there
• 41:41
  Speaker 3: remains little land worth entering. The country, however, is still
• 41:46
  Speaker 3: very sparsely settled. Perhaps the most suggestive fact about the
• 41:51
  Speaker 3: whole region is that no point in the United States
• 41:55
  Speaker 3: lies further from a railroad than the center of this plain.
• 42:00
  Speaker 3: Even the great Desert from Death Valley eastward across southern
• 42:03
  Speaker 3: Nevada and Utah is more deeply penetrated by railroad lines
• 42:08
  Speaker 3: than is this great wilderness of eastern Oregon. Traveling southward
• 42:13
  Speaker 3: from the Dolls to the southern part of the state
• 42:16
  Speaker 3: and then eastward into Idaho, one can go more than
• 42:20
  Speaker 3: a thousand miles without crossing a railroad track, although no
• 42:24
  Speaker 3: point is more than about one hundred sixty miles in
• 42:27
  Speaker 3: a direct line from some railroad connection. In the year
• 42:33
  Speaker 3: eighteen ninety three, the Division of Botany in the Department
• 42:36
  Speaker 3: of Agriculture began to make a comprehensive examination of the
• 42:41
  Speaker 3: vegetation of these plains, beginning with the Columbia Plains proper
• 42:45
  Speaker 3: in the state of Washington in eighteen ninety four, this
• 42:50
  Speaker 3: work was continued southward across the Columbia, through the neck
• 42:53
  Speaker 3: of the Dumbell and down nearly to the southern boundary
• 42:57
  Speaker 3: of the state of Oregon. In eighteen ninety five, the
• 43:01
  Speaker 3: work was interrupted for more urgent explorations in the Cordeline Mountains,
• 43:06
  Speaker 3: but in eighteen ninety six it was again taken up
• 43:10
  Speaker 3: and the remainder of the Oregon Plains was covered. The
• 43:14
  Speaker 3: collections made in these three years, though not confined entirely
• 43:18
  Speaker 3: to the plains region, but including also some of the
• 43:21
  Speaker 3: adjacent forested mountain country, contained not far from one thousand,
• 43:25
  Speaker 3: eight hundred species, and it is probable that the plains themselves,
• 43:30
  Speaker 3: as distinguished from the forests upon the surrounding mountains, contained
• 43:35
  Speaker 3: not less than one thousand this year. The route followed
• 43:40
  Speaker 3: was from the town of Ontario on the Snake River
• 43:44
  Speaker 3: westward to Harney, from which place a side trip was
• 43:47
  Speaker 3: made northward in the Blue Mountains. The expedition then traveled
• 43:52
  Speaker 3: south from Harney to Stein's Mountain, then westward across the plains,
• 43:57
  Speaker 3: winding back and forth between the North and South mountain
• 43:59
  Speaker 3: reining to forth Klamath, and finally over the Cascades to
• 44:03
  Speaker 3: the railroad. The whole country appears to have been covered
• 44:08
  Speaker 3: at some not very remote geological period by a great
• 44:12
  Speaker 3: sheet of lava, which has since been cracked, uplifted, and
• 44:15
  Speaker 3: depressed in various portions. Almost every plateau ends in an
• 44:21
  Speaker 3: escarpment of naked basalt, known throughout the region as rim rock,
• 44:25
  Speaker 3: perhaps geologically the most characteristic surface feature of the country.
• 44:31
  Speaker 3: Nearly every valley is enclosed by such a formation. The
• 44:36
  Speaker 3: vegetation of the country consists primarily of sagebrush, the well
• 44:41
  Speaker 3: known Artemisia tridentata of botanists, a shrub three to six
• 44:46
  Speaker 3: feet high, closely related to the wormwood of Europe, and
• 44:50
  Speaker 3: having in common with that plant a light gray color
• 44:53
  Speaker 3: and a strongly aromatic odor. Away from stream beds and
• 44:59
  Speaker 3: sinks in the Shoe lakes, sagebrush covers the whole country
• 45:03
  Speaker 3: like a gray mantle, and constitutes probably nine tenths of
• 45:07
  Speaker 3: the total vegetation. It is a plant, the herbage of
• 45:11
  Speaker 3: which is eaten by but few animals, and by those
• 45:15
  Speaker 3: only in starvation times, one that will grow with little
• 45:19
  Speaker 3: moisture and will stand the widest range of temperature. Sagebrush
• 45:24
  Speaker 3: gives to the country its character. A level stretch is
• 45:28
  Speaker 3: known as a sage plain. The grouse which live there
• 45:32
  Speaker 3: are known as sage Hence, the fuel of the region
• 45:35
  Speaker 3: is sage brush. The odor upon the atmosphere is that
• 45:39
  Speaker 3: of sage brush. After a season's lack of rain, the
• 45:45
  Speaker 3: sage brush turns to a blackish gray, and everything has
• 45:48
  Speaker 3: a dead, burnt out look, suggestive of thirst of hot
• 45:52
  Speaker 3: rocks and parching winds. But after a soaking spring rain,
• 45:57
  Speaker 3: the sage brush puts on a new coloration, a delicate, pale,
• 46:02
  Speaker 3: bluish green, soft and very pleasing to the eye. Occasionally,
• 46:07
  Speaker 3: in some far off lava covered basin of the plains,
• 46:10
  Speaker 3: where there has been no rain for months, a stream
• 46:13
  Speaker 3: bed stretching down from a mountain brings to the thirsty
• 46:16
  Speaker 3: plain the water that has fallen in a summer thunderstorm
• 46:20
  Speaker 3: upon some high peak, and as a consequence, the dark
• 46:24
  Speaker 3: gray blanket of sagebrush is lighted up by a line
• 46:27
  Speaker 3: of soft pea green. If the stream bed is one
• 46:32
  Speaker 3: that still continues to carry water, the sage hens gather
• 46:36
  Speaker 3: along it from miles back in the plains, and every
• 46:39
  Speaker 3: morning and evening come down to drink. Sometimes, the tail
• 46:44
  Speaker 3: and other docks, if the mountain is high enough to
• 46:46
  Speaker 3: produce a perennial stream, bring up their broods of young
• 46:50
  Speaker 3: in the tall grass along its margin. In one days
• 46:54
  Speaker 3: journey of about twenty miles along such a stream, we
• 46:57
  Speaker 3: passed by actual count three hundred eighty nine sage hens
• 47:01
  Speaker 3: and brood after brood of ducks, while at some point
• 47:05
  Speaker 3: we started up at a distance of half a mile
• 47:08
  Speaker 3: a herd of twenty antelope, which lined up like Indians
• 47:11
  Speaker 3: and trotted away from their drinking place over the rim
• 47:14
  Speaker 3: of the plateau. They were doubtless on their way back
• 47:18
  Speaker 3: to their grazing grounds, or even at the present stage
• 47:21
  Speaker 3: of civilization, no hunter ever disturbs them. Regret is sometimes
• 47:28
  Speaker 3: expressed that sagebrush, abundant as it is, does not furnish
• 47:32
  Speaker 3: a succulent, palatable herbage suited to the appetites of cattle
• 47:36
  Speaker 3: and horses. If it did, what an inexhaustible supply of
• 47:41
  Speaker 3: forage these arid plains would support. But those who suggest
• 47:46
  Speaker 3: such a resourceful condition of affairs have forgotten that the
• 47:49
  Speaker 3: cause of its abundance and wide distribution is undoubtedly the
• 47:53
  Speaker 3: protection against the ravages of grazing animals afforded by its
• 47:57
  Speaker 3: disagreeable taste, so that it can grow, produce its seed,
• 48:01
  Speaker 3: and spread almost unchecked. Had it been a grazing plant
• 48:06
  Speaker 3: suited to the appetite of antelope and deer, and later
• 48:09
  Speaker 3: to that of sheep, horses and cattle, it would long
• 48:13
  Speaker 3: since have been exhausted, and the Oregon Plains have become
• 48:16
  Speaker 3: as bare of sage brush as some of the wyoming
• 48:19
  Speaker 3: plains are bare of grass. A few other shrubs form
• 48:24
  Speaker 3: an inconsiderable part of the woody vegetation, but these and
• 48:29
  Speaker 3: the sage brush make up by no means all the
• 48:31
  Speaker 3: plant life of the country. As the snow melts away
• 48:35
  Speaker 3: in the spring, the well moistened soil between the Artemisia
• 48:39
  Speaker 3: bushes becomes covered with the ceilings of innumerable annuals. For
• 48:44
  Speaker 3: a few weeks, the ground is carpeted with these plants,
• 48:48
  Speaker 3: which flower in the greatest profusion, but after about two
• 48:51
  Speaker 3: months they ripen, their seeds, dry up, die, and disappear.
• 48:58
  Speaker 3: Growing with these annuals is another time type of plants,
• 49:01
  Speaker 3: tuberous rooted perennials, which have stored up during the preceding
• 49:05
  Speaker 3: year's growth a large amount of nourishment. They therefore bloom
• 49:09
  Speaker 3: at the first break of spring, go through a brief
• 49:12
  Speaker 3: period of rapid growth, lasting usually a little longer than
• 49:16
  Speaker 3: that of the annuals, and then the newly formed bulbs,
• 49:20
  Speaker 3: well protected by impervious coats against the desiccating influences of
• 49:25
  Speaker 3: a long, dry summer, carry over a full supply of
• 49:28
  Speaker 3: plant food for the next springs, blooming at some points
• 49:34
  Speaker 3: in the higher altitudes of the Sage plains in level
• 49:38
  Speaker 3: or slightly depressed areas which catch and retain for a
• 49:41
  Speaker 3: time some of the water from the melting snows in spring,
• 49:44
  Speaker 3: and then smeadow of fine grasses, interspersed with the greatest
• 49:48
  Speaker 3: profusion of brilliantly colored flowers is formed, and as one
• 49:53
  Speaker 3: of the most abundant is the blue flowered hyacinth like
• 49:56
  Speaker 3: camas Camasia esculenta. The these formations are known as camas meadows.
• 50:03
  Speaker 3: They cover from a few acres to many hundreds. By
• 50:07
  Speaker 3: the middle of summer, these meadows, drained by some creek
• 50:10
  Speaker 3: or rivulet, are dried out, the fine black soil extremely
• 50:14
  Speaker 3: sticky and moistkeeping open in deep ragged cracks, and becoming
• 50:19
  Speaker 3: so hard that an ordinary spade makes scarcely any impression
• 50:23
  Speaker 3: upon it. A lump of it, broken off with a
• 50:27
  Speaker 3: pick and cut with a knife shows a smooth, shining
• 50:30
  Speaker 3: surface very similar to that of pipe clay. When the
• 50:35
  Speaker 3: soil of a cammas meadow reaches this stage of dryness,
• 50:38
  Speaker 3: the vegetation ripens, the seeds and dormed, bulbous underground parts,
• 50:43
  Speaker 3: carrying the plants over the remaining period of drought. As
• 50:49
  Speaker 3: one descends from the open plains into the valley bottoms
• 50:52
  Speaker 3: and approaches a lake or the sink of a stream,
• 50:55
  Speaker 3: the soil becomes alkaline and the vegetation changes, the sage
• 51:00
  Speaker 3: being followed by a somewhat similar hard wood spiny shrub
• 51:04
  Speaker 3: known as greasewood sarcobatus but micolatus, and this, in turn,
• 51:10
  Speaker 3: in case the alkaline valley bottom is dry, is succeeded
• 51:13
  Speaker 3: by a hard baked soil absolutely devoid of vegetation. If
• 51:19
  Speaker 3: the valley bottom is moist, the greasewood may be succeeded
• 51:22
  Speaker 3: by a green carpet of salt grass, and this in
• 51:25
  Speaker 3: turn by an incrustation of salt, often with a thin
• 51:28
  Speaker 3: covering of briny water or uzy alkaline mud in the
• 51:32
  Speaker 3: center of it. If, as frequently happens, the water in
• 51:37
  Speaker 3: one of these valley bottoms is nearly fresh, it supports
• 51:41
  Speaker 3: a more luxuriant vegetation, and the dense line of salt
• 51:44
  Speaker 3: grass may be followed by taller, succulent moorish grasses, the
• 51:48
  Speaker 3: area covering hundreds and sometimes even thousands of acres and
• 51:52
  Speaker 3: furnishing an almost inexhaustible supply of forage. In still wetter
• 51:58
  Speaker 3: soil and surrounding the open water grows a line of
• 52:01
  Speaker 3: tully as it is called, a species of tall bulrush
• 52:05
  Speaker 3: known to botanists as Sirpus lacustris occidentalis, at the western
• 52:12
  Speaker 3: bays of Steyne's Mountain, in a great groove formed on
• 52:15
  Speaker 3: the east by the sloping mountain base and on the
• 52:18
  Speaker 3: west by an abruptly ended uplift of the lava crust
• 52:22
  Speaker 3: lie along succession of marshes or sluice as they are called,
• 52:26
  Speaker 3: connected by a flowing stream, and covering probably a hundred
• 52:29
  Speaker 3: thousand acres, This land constitutes the principal part of an
• 52:34
  Speaker 3: immense ranch, consisting of one hundred eighty thousand acres of
• 52:39
  Speaker 3: fenced land, for the most part well watered. Indeed, it
• 52:43
  Speaker 3: covers all the available water supply of the region and
• 52:47
  Speaker 3: controls a several times greater area of arid grazing land
• 52:50
  Speaker 3: belonging to the government. In the spring, the cattle are
• 52:55
  Speaker 3: driven out into the open sage brush, where they graze
• 52:58
  Speaker 3: for several weeks. Upon abundant spring vegetation. Later As the
• 53:04
  Speaker 3: dry summer begins and the estranchient porge supply is exhausted,
• 53:08
  Speaker 3: the stalk is driven higher upon the plateaus or the
• 53:11
  Speaker 3: mountain snopes, where they find an abundance of bunch grass. Then,
• 53:16
  Speaker 3: as the cold weather of autumn sets in and the
• 53:19
  Speaker 3: snows begin, the cattle are brought down again to the marshlands,
• 53:23
  Speaker 3: and when the swamps are frozen over and the ice
• 53:26
  Speaker 3: is sufficiently thick, they are driven out upon it and
• 53:30
  Speaker 3: there eat the air dried sugar grass and cane grass
• 53:33
  Speaker 3: and tu leaves. Finally, forewarned of the opening spring by
• 53:38
  Speaker 3: a warm chinook from the southwest, the Mexican voccos or buccaroos,
• 53:43
  Speaker 3: as they are more commonly called in the language of
• 53:45
  Speaker 3: the Argonians, clear the cattle off the ice before it
• 53:49
  Speaker 3: finally breaks up. Every summer, an immense amount of hay
• 53:54
  Speaker 3: is secured from these great meadows, about three thousand tons
• 53:59
  Speaker 3: being annually cut and stacked for winter use on this
• 54:02
  Speaker 3: particular ranch. During the storms of winter, the cattle on
• 54:07
  Speaker 3: the ranch are as far as possible fed and sheltered,
• 54:12
  Speaker 3: but heavy losses from freezing and starvation frequently occur. In
• 54:17
  Speaker 3: eighteen eighteen nine to ninety occurred one of those long
• 54:21
  Speaker 3: hard winters which are expected in eastern Oregon perhaps once
• 54:24
  Speaker 3: in ten years. Snow began to fall earlier than usual
• 54:29
  Speaker 3: and continued almost incessantly throughout the winter. The stalk caught
• 54:35
  Speaker 3: out upon the range were wholly inaccessible and could not
• 54:38
  Speaker 3: be brought into the corrals. The cattle that were under
• 54:42
  Speaker 3: shelter at the time the conditions became serious were fed
• 54:46
  Speaker 3: as long as the supply of hay lasted, and then
• 54:49
  Speaker 3: the spring not breaking at its accustomed season, the animals
• 54:53
  Speaker 3: slowly starved. The loss of a starvation in the entire
• 54:58
  Speaker 3: region varied from from thirty to seventy and even ninety percent.
• 55:04
  Speaker 3: Those stock raisers who were well prepared for such an
• 55:07
  Speaker 3: emergency escaped with the setback of a year or two
• 55:10
  Speaker 3: in profits, but those who were taken in the worst
• 55:14
  Speaker 3: condition were in many cases ruined. The Indians who once
• 55:20
  Speaker 3: lived upon these plains found, through centuries of slowly gathered experience,
• 55:25
  Speaker 3: not only that they could exist, but that they could
• 55:28
  Speaker 3: live in comfort, building themselves shelters of touleas and of
• 55:32
  Speaker 3: juniper brush, and easily obtaining an abundant supply of game
• 55:37
  Speaker 3: and rich nutritious food, with all the articles necessary to
• 55:41
  Speaker 3: the manufacture of their various implements, their clothing, their cooking utensils,
• 55:46
  Speaker 3: and in fact all the other necessaries of an outer
• 55:50
  Speaker 3: existence and the luxuries of savage life. Perhaps no Indians
• 55:56
  Speaker 3: in the far Northwest have been guided by better councils
• 55:59
  Speaker 3: from their chiefs, have shown a greater desire to assume
• 56:03
  Speaker 3: the conditions of civilized life, and have proved themselves more
• 56:07
  Speaker 3: capable of development under those conditions than the Klamath Indians
• 56:11
  Speaker 3: of Oregon. They are now gathered together upon a reservation
• 56:16
  Speaker 3: about forty miles by sixty in extent, in the southwestern
• 56:20
  Speaker 3: part of the Oregon Plains, in a country partly forested
• 56:24
  Speaker 3: and partly covered with sage brush. The land they occupy
• 56:29
  Speaker 3: is a part of that upon which their ancestors lived,
• 56:32
  Speaker 3: and thus, not having been removed from the conditions under
• 56:36
  Speaker 3: which they developed, they furnish an excellent opportunity for observing
• 56:40
  Speaker 3: an intelligent engine tribe in process of civilization, still retaining
• 56:45
  Speaker 3: the best and most deeply rooted of their old customs
• 56:48
  Speaker 3: and habits, and substituting for the less useful ones the
• 56:51
  Speaker 3: improvements of civilization, yet not giving up in a generation
• 56:56
  Speaker 3: the old tendencies of centuries as Indians graze cattle and horses,
• 57:02
  Speaker 3: cut hay for winter use, and raise a small quantity
• 57:06
  Speaker 3: of grain and occasionally a few vegetables. They build fences
• 57:10
  Speaker 3: around their separate forms, and are now building houses of
• 57:14
  Speaker 3: sawed lumber, their blacksmiths, carpenters, shoemakers, and other artisans being
• 57:20
  Speaker 3: educated at the agency schools. At least a hundred species
• 57:26
  Speaker 3: of the native plants of the region are still used
• 57:29
  Speaker 3: by the Clamats in one way or another. One of
• 57:33
  Speaker 3: their staples farinaceous foods is the seed of the great
• 57:36
  Speaker 3: yellow water lily of the northwest, Nimphia policepala, which grows
• 57:41
  Speaker 3: in inexhaustible quantities in the marshes of the reservation. The
• 57:47
  Speaker 3: bulbs of the camus plant, of which enormous amounts are
• 57:50
  Speaker 3: pried out of the ground in spring with a camas
• 57:52
  Speaker 3: stick or digger furnish. Another excellent and favorite food. The
• 57:58
  Speaker 3: most important of their fleshy fruits is a huckleberry Vaccinium myrtiloidis,
• 58:04
  Speaker 3: which covers the mountain slopes in some parts of the
• 58:07
  Speaker 3: neighboring cascades. The best of their fibers is a perennial
• 58:11
  Speaker 3: blue flowered flax Linum luisii, which grows without irrigation in
• 58:17
  Speaker 3: the open sage brush. At higher altitudes, they get a
• 58:21
  Speaker 3: beautiful lemon yellow permanent dye from a yellow lichen a
• 58:26
  Speaker 3: Vernia volpina, which grows abundantly on the trunks of trees
• 58:30
  Speaker 3: in the pine forests. Some of these plants, and others
• 58:34
  Speaker 3: equally useful, may well attract the attention of agricultural experimenters.
• 58:42
  Speaker 3: In view of the present agricultural depression, which appears to
• 58:45
  Speaker 3: be especially severe in the plains of eastern Oregon, the
• 58:49
  Speaker 3: question naturally arises what the future promises in the way
• 58:53
  Speaker 3: of relief, Whether the agricultural capacities of the region are
• 58:58
  Speaker 3: such as to offer a fair prospect of relief by
• 59:02
  Speaker 3: some modification of the prevailing system, or whether the result
• 59:06
  Speaker 3: must be the gradual abandonment of present settlements. This is
• 59:11
  Speaker 3: notably one of those regions in which money is made
• 59:15
  Speaker 3: out of only one product, in this case forage. The
• 59:19
  Speaker 3: forage crop is not immediately exchanged for money, but is
• 59:23
  Speaker 3: used to fatten cattle for beef, to raise horses for
• 59:26
  Speaker 3: farm and other purposes, and to grow sheep for wool.
• 59:31
  Speaker 3: At present, the low price of wool has practically put
• 59:35
  Speaker 3: an end to sheep grazing. The low price of horses
• 59:39
  Speaker 3: as strapped animals has resulted in the inability of the
• 59:43
  Speaker 3: ranchers to market their stock, horses fresh from the range
• 59:46
  Speaker 3: being now worth in some parts of Oregon no more
• 59:50
  Speaker 3: than five dollars per head. The actual products of the
• 59:54
  Speaker 3: region therefore are essentially limited to one namely beef cattle,
• 1:00:00
  Speaker 3: and the price of these is so low that the
• 1:00:02
  Speaker 3: income is barely sufficient to pay the expenses of managing
• 1:00:06
  Speaker 3: the ranch. One practical modification of the present system is
• 1:00:12
  Speaker 3: clearly apparent to the traveler. Ranchers have been accustomed, under
• 1:00:17
  Speaker 3: the high prices of former years, to neglect the ordinary
• 1:00:20
  Speaker 3: processes of farming, and to purchase their entire food supply
• 1:00:24
  Speaker 3: from the outside, paying not merely the first cost of
• 1:00:28
  Speaker 3: the food in eastern markets, but the cost of railroad
• 1:00:31
  Speaker 3: transportation and of a long wagon hall. Besides, the ranchers
• 1:00:36
  Speaker 3: of the plains have assumed, rather than proved by experience,
• 1:00:40
  Speaker 3: that the country is incapable of producing the ordinary farm
• 1:00:43
  Speaker 3: crops such as are necessary for family use. There is
• 1:00:48
  Speaker 3: no question that the proper use for gardens and field
• 1:00:51
  Speaker 3: crops of some of the water which now either goes
• 1:00:54
  Speaker 3: to waste or is turned upon grazing lands, would be
• 1:00:57
  Speaker 3: a most important step toward battering the press agricultural conditions.
• 1:01:03
  Speaker 3: This lesson, indeed, is now being learned practically from force
• 1:01:06
  Speaker 3: of necessity, and in many places where it has been
• 1:01:10
  Speaker 3: assumed from the occasional early or late frosts that certain
• 1:01:13
  Speaker 3: crops could not be grown, it is now found that
• 1:01:16
  Speaker 3: with proper foresight and care, excellent crops are produced. Another
• 1:01:23
  Speaker 3: lesson to be drawn from the fact that the native
• 1:01:26
  Speaker 3: races obtained an abundant subsistence from these same plains in
• 1:01:30
  Speaker 3: which a civilized race now finds it hard to subsist,
• 1:01:34
  Speaker 3: is that it is impossible to carry on with success
• 1:01:37
  Speaker 3: in an arid region an agriculture developed in a humid region,
• 1:01:42
  Speaker 3: unless important modifications are introduced. This lesson has already been
• 1:01:47
  Speaker 3: learned in some other parts of the country, as for example,
• 1:01:51
  Speaker 3: in western Kansas, in Indian Territory, and in northern Texas,
• 1:01:56
  Speaker 3: where after years of largely unsuccessful trials, it was found
• 1:02:00
  Speaker 3: impossible to depend upon the typical American stock feed Indian corn,
• 1:02:06
  Speaker 3: but it was found possible to grow a cereal of
• 1:02:08
  Speaker 3: the Old World, now commonly known as cafer corn. This
• 1:02:14
  Speaker 3: has been found to flourish under conditions too arid for
• 1:02:17
  Speaker 3: indian corn, to produce heavy crops, and to have about
• 1:02:21
  Speaker 3: the same nutritive qualities as that product for feeding farm
• 1:02:24
  Speaker 3: stock of all kinds or for human food. There is
• 1:02:29
  Speaker 3: a great sub arid belt in that region in which
• 1:02:32
  Speaker 3: cafer corn has now become the staple crop. And while
• 1:02:36
  Speaker 3: there is no great demand for it in the markets
• 1:02:38
  Speaker 3: of the world, and it is not therefore directly convertible
• 1:02:42
  Speaker 3: into money, yet when transformed into pork, beef or draft animals,
• 1:02:47
  Speaker 3: it brings quite as good a price as indian corn.
• 1:02:51
  Speaker 3: Though this particular crop is probably not suited to the
• 1:02:54
  Speaker 3: plains of Oregon, it suggests strongly that there may be
• 1:02:58
  Speaker 3: equally valuable plants well adapted to that region. The observations
• 1:03:04
  Speaker 3: we have just made on the native plants demonstrate the
• 1:03:07
  Speaker 3: fact that there are many food producing species which stand
• 1:03:11
  Speaker 3: the climate well, and there is a reasonable probability that
• 1:03:15
  Speaker 3: some of them might, by careful cultivation and selection, be
• 1:03:19
  Speaker 3: turned into useful agricultural products. The bringing about of such
• 1:03:24
  Speaker 3: a result, however, can be the outcome only of long
• 1:03:28
  Speaker 3: and laborious experimentation, and it offers no immediate solution of
• 1:03:33
  Speaker 3: the present problem. There is one phase of wastefulness of
• 1:03:38
  Speaker 3: the natural resources of the United States which a trip
• 1:03:42
  Speaker 3: across the plains of Oregon particularly impresses upon the traveler,
• 1:03:47
  Speaker 3: namely the careless destruction of our great natural wealth of forage.
• 1:03:52
  Speaker 3: It is doubtless to this that the local aggravation of
• 1:03:55
  Speaker 3: the present agricultural depression is in some parts of the country.
• 1:03:59
  Speaker 3: Jew After an educational campaign of twenty years, the government
• 1:04:05
  Speaker 3: has recently appointed a commission to report a practical plan
• 1:04:09
  Speaker 3: of dealing with the forestry problem of the United States.
• 1:04:13
  Speaker 3: From the condition of our great grazing areas in the West,
• 1:04:17
  Speaker 3: it seems probable that the time will come when a
• 1:04:19
  Speaker 3: similar popular demand will be made upon the government for
• 1:04:23
  Speaker 3: some means of preventing the exhaustion of the forged supply
• 1:04:26
  Speaker 3: on the public lands. Continued overgrazing year after year, if
• 1:04:32
  Speaker 3: sufficiently excessive, unquestionably kills out the native forge plants, which
• 1:04:38
  Speaker 3: are then replaced largely by introduced tweeds. The original nutritious
• 1:04:43
  Speaker 3: grasses never regain their former luxuriance, and sometimes are almost exterminated.
• 1:04:50
  Speaker 3: Under moderate grazing, the native species produce yearly a good crop,
• 1:04:56
  Speaker 3: or if even slightly overgraced, will after a few years
• 1:05:00
  Speaker 3: suffrest regain their former abundance. Only a comparatively small percentage
• 1:05:07
  Speaker 3: of the arid grazing lands of the West are under
• 1:05:10
  Speaker 3: private ownership. Most of the grazing is done upon the
• 1:05:14
  Speaker 3: public lands. When the price of beef or other product
• 1:05:19
  Speaker 3: of grazing was high, as it was, for example, ten
• 1:05:22
  Speaker 3: years ago, it was to the immediate interests of every
• 1:05:25
  Speaker 3: cattle owner to fatten the largest number of stock in
• 1:05:28
  Speaker 3: the preevist possible time, regardless of the effect of so
• 1:05:32
  Speaker 3: doing upon the future productiveness of forage. Not only is
• 1:05:36
  Speaker 3: the system a bad one theoretically, but its practical effects
• 1:05:40
  Speaker 3: are manifest in the actual conditions of many portions of
• 1:05:43
  Speaker 3: our grazing regions today. And if the prices of the
• 1:05:47
  Speaker 3: products of grazing continue high enough to make grazing a
• 1:05:50
  Speaker 3: profitable industry, the condition of affairs is bound to become
• 1:05:54
  Speaker 3: gradually worse, and we shall, ultimately, in section after section,
• 1:05:59
  Speaker 3: ruin our grazing lands. The correction of the evil may
• 1:06:04
  Speaker 3: be brought about, it seems to me by one of
• 1:06:07
  Speaker 3: three methods. First, by a system of licenses, which shall
• 1:06:12
  Speaker 3: regulate the number of cattle to be grazed on a
• 1:06:15
  Speaker 3: given area. A similar system has been proposed for our
• 1:06:20
  Speaker 3: forest lands, and some plan of the kind seems likely
• 1:06:23
  Speaker 3: to be adopted. The principal objection to licenses in the
• 1:06:28
  Speaker 3: case of grazing lands is that the responsibility of the
• 1:06:31
  Speaker 3: government would be great, and the administration of such a
• 1:06:35
  Speaker 3: law would add enormously to the machinery of the executive.
• 1:06:41
  Speaker 3: A second, and perhaps preferable method is the private ownership
• 1:06:45
  Speaker 3: of land. It is evident that it is to the
• 1:06:48
  Speaker 3: advantage of an owner to maintain his land at its
• 1:06:51
  Speaker 3: greatest continued productiveness, and he would not therefore seriously overgraze it.
• 1:06:58
  Speaker 3: As a matter of fact, the great cattle ranges, which
• 1:07:01
  Speaker 3: are either owned by individuals or corporations, or are essentially
• 1:07:05
  Speaker 3: theirs through the control of the available water supply, are
• 1:07:08
  Speaker 3: in far better condition to day than the public lands
• 1:07:12
  Speaker 3: which are common grazing grounds, and many of the areas
• 1:07:15
  Speaker 3: thus controlled are in just as good condition as they
• 1:07:19
  Speaker 3: ever wear. A third method of securing responsible management of
• 1:07:25
  Speaker 3: grazing lands is a long term lease from the government.
• 1:07:29
  Speaker 3: The principal objection of cattlemen to private ownership of land
• 1:07:33
  Speaker 3: is the necessity of paying taxes. This difficulty would be
• 1:07:37
  Speaker 3: oviated by a lease of the land from the government,
• 1:07:41
  Speaker 3: and even though the amount paid were small, the advantage
• 1:07:44
  Speaker 3: of one interested management would prove of the highest benefit
• 1:07:48
  Speaker 3: to the general public, while the government would still retain
• 1:07:51
  Speaker 3: its title to the land, and after the expiration of
• 1:07:54
  Speaker 3: the lease, could make new terms based on longer experience
• 1:07:58
  Speaker 3: and changed conditions. End of section two, section three of
• 1:08:10
  Speaker 3: the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven, December eighteen ninety six.
• 1:08:17
  Speaker 3: This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in
• 1:08:21
  Speaker 3: the public domain. For more information or to volunteer this
• 1:08:25
  Speaker 3: visit LibriVox dot org. The United States Department of Agriculture
• 1:08:32
  Speaker 3: and its Biological Survey. Probably no investigations now being carried
• 1:08:38
  Speaker 3: on in connection with the many cited scientific work of
• 1:08:41
  Speaker 3: the U. S Department of Agriculture will be more productive
• 1:08:45
  Speaker 3: of beneficial results than those which are being conducted in
• 1:08:49
  Speaker 3: the Division of Biological Survey. Under the direction of doctor C.
• 1:08:53
  Speaker 3: Hart Merriam. Six years ago, Congress authorized the Department to
• 1:09:00
  Speaker 3: institute a comprehensive investigation of the geographical distribution of plants
• 1:09:05
  Speaker 3: and animals, but it made no change in the official
• 1:09:08
  Speaker 3: designation of the division that of Ornithology and Mammalogy to
• 1:09:14
  Speaker 3: which this important work was to be assigned. At the
• 1:09:18
  Speaker 3: last session of Congress, however, this omission was made good,
• 1:09:22
  Speaker 3: and now the study of the distribution of life in
• 1:09:25
  Speaker 3: the United States would reference to the adaptation of different
• 1:09:28
  Speaker 3: sections of the country to different agricultural and horticulture of products,
• 1:09:33
  Speaker 3: will no longer be even nominally subordinated to those less important,
• 1:09:38
  Speaker 3: though most useful investigations in which doctor Merriam and these
• 1:09:43
  Speaker 3: collaborators have hitherto been mainly engaged. During the last half
• 1:09:49
  Speaker 3: dozen years, American agriculture has been passing through a period
• 1:09:53
  Speaker 3: of transition, consequent in part upon a sudden shifting of
• 1:09:57
  Speaker 3: the agricultural center of gravity, and in part upon an
• 1:10:01
  Speaker 3: unusually prolonged era of low prices. It has been a
• 1:10:05
  Speaker 3: time of change and experimentation, and millions of dollars have
• 1:10:09
  Speaker 3: unquestionably been wasted for ignorance of the complex relations of
• 1:10:13
  Speaker 3: the different products of the soil to the conditions under
• 1:10:16
  Speaker 3: which their growth to maturity can most effectually be promoted.
• 1:10:22
  Speaker 3: Although with exception of the cotton plant, and the West
• 1:10:25
  Speaker 3: India sugar cane. All the principal agricultural products of the
• 1:10:29
  Speaker 3: United States have come through the adaptation, either natural or artificial,
• 1:10:34
  Speaker 3: of one or another of the varieties to local conditions.
• 1:10:38
  Speaker 3: To have a range of successful cultivation almost as far
• 1:10:42
  Speaker 3: extending as the country itself. There is not one of them,
• 1:10:46
  Speaker 3: or a single variety of one of them, that has
• 1:10:49
  Speaker 3: not an area within which its yeald is more certain,
• 1:10:52
  Speaker 3: more perfect, and more abundant than it is anywhere else.
• 1:10:56
  Speaker 3: And this area is as definitely ascertainable as is the
• 1:11:00
  Speaker 3: geographic distribution of the humming bird or the long lived pine.
• 1:11:05
  Speaker 3: To discover these regions of ideal conditions, of perfect adaptations,
• 1:11:11
  Speaker 3: and so to understand their essential relations, each to its
• 1:11:14
  Speaker 3: particular product, that the result of the slightest departure therefrom
• 1:11:19
  Speaker 3: can be accurately foretold, constitutes one of the principal duties
• 1:11:23
  Speaker 3: of the new division. The distribution of cultivated products cannot, however,
• 1:11:29
  Speaker 3: be restricted to the localities in which the conditions of
• 1:11:32
  Speaker 3: growth are exclusively favorable, And it may be presumed, therefore
• 1:11:37
  Speaker 3: that we shall see not merely a definite localization of
• 1:11:40
  Speaker 3: the various regions of perfect development, but also an exact
• 1:11:44
  Speaker 3: graduation of the manifold conditions of all reasonably successful cultivation.
• 1:11:51
  Speaker 3: A natural complement of these important investigations will be the
• 1:11:55
  Speaker 3: introduction of new species of economic plants from abroad and
• 1:12:00
  Speaker 3: their allocation to congenial climates in suitable soils, a procedure
• 1:12:04
  Speaker 3: that will open up enormous possibilities of usefulness in a
• 1:12:08
  Speaker 3: country possessing so great a diversity of soil and climate
• 1:12:12
  Speaker 3: as does the United States. All this, however, will call
• 1:12:17
  Speaker 3: for the exercise of scientific attainments of the highest order,
• 1:12:21
  Speaker 3: and his accomplishment will be a work of years. It
• 1:12:25
  Speaker 3: is to be hoped that neither changes of administration nor
• 1:12:29
  Speaker 3: mutations of congressional majorities will interfere with it, but that
• 1:12:34
  Speaker 3: its maintenance will be as liberal and uninterrupted as with
• 1:12:38
  Speaker 3: its an investigation of such vast economic importance. J. H.
• 1:12:46
  Speaker 3: End Of, Section three.
• 1:12:53
  Speaker 4: Section four of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven, December
• 1:12:59
  Speaker 4: eighteen nineteen. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings
• 1:13:04
  Speaker 4: are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer,
• 1:13:08
  Speaker 4: please visit liprivox dot org. Recording by Avayi in April
• 1:13:14
  Speaker 4: twenty seventeen. Statistics of Railways in the United States from
• 1:13:22
  Speaker 4: an advanced copy of Statistics of Railways in the United
• 1:13:25
  Speaker 4: States from the report of the Interstate Commerce Commission for
• 1:13:29
  Speaker 4: the year ending June thirtieth, eighteen ninety five, It appears
• 1:13:34
  Speaker 4: that the total railway mileage of the country at that
• 1:13:37
  Speaker 4: date was one hundred eighty thousand, six hundred fifty seven miles,
• 1:13:42
  Speaker 4: an increase during the year of one thousand, nine hundred
• 1:13:45
  Speaker 4: forty nine miles, or one point zero nine percent. This
• 1:13:51
  Speaker 4: is the smallest annual increase for nearly a generation. It is, however,
• 1:13:56
  Speaker 4: very generally distributed over the country, being participated in by
• 1:14:01
  Speaker 4: nearly every state. As to railroad equipment, the number of
• 1:14:06
  Speaker 4: locomotives has been increased by two hundred seven The number
• 1:14:09
  Speaker 4: of passenger cars also shows a slight increase, but the
• 1:14:13
  Speaker 4: number of freight cars in use has been reduced by
• 1:14:16
  Speaker 4: nine thousand and fifty. The number of railroad employees was
• 1:14:20
  Speaker 4: seven hundred eighty five thousand, thirty four. This is a
• 1:14:24
  Speaker 4: trifle larger than in eighteen ninety four, but is a
• 1:14:28
  Speaker 4: great reduction from the preceding year, when high water mark
• 1:14:31
  Speaker 4: in railroad transportation was reached. The reduction is quite uniformly
• 1:14:36
  Speaker 4: distributed among all the different classes of employees. It is
• 1:14:41
  Speaker 4: a notable fact that while the pay of the officers
• 1:14:44
  Speaker 4: and clerks of railway corporations has been materially reduced during
• 1:14:48
  Speaker 4: the recent depression, that of other employees remains practically the
• 1:14:53
  Speaker 4: same as at its commencement. The total amount of railway
• 1:14:57
  Speaker 4: stock stands at nearly five thousand millis million dollars, and
• 1:15:01
  Speaker 4: the total indebtedness is four thousand, six hundred forty one millions,
• 1:15:06
  Speaker 4: both showing a slight increase over the preceding year. As
• 1:15:10
  Speaker 4: to public service and transportation, the total number of passengers
• 1:15:14
  Speaker 4: carried was five hundred seven millions, or to put the
• 1:15:18
  Speaker 4: figures in another form, the number of passengers carried one
• 1:15:22
  Speaker 4: mile was twelve thousand, one hundred eighty eight millions. This
• 1:15:26
  Speaker 4: is a decrease from the preceding year of one thousand,
• 1:15:30
  Speaker 4: two hundred millions, showing the extent to which the depression
• 1:15:33
  Speaker 4: in business has effected the migrations of the people. On
• 1:15:38
  Speaker 4: an average, every man, woman, and child in the country
• 1:15:42
  Speaker 4: traveled by rail the distance of one hundred seventy five
• 1:15:45
  Speaker 4: miles during the year. The number of tons of freight
• 1:15:49
  Speaker 4: moved was six hundred ninety seven millions, the number moved
• 1:15:53
  Speaker 4: one mile being eighty five thousand, two hundred twenty seven millions,
• 1:15:58
  Speaker 4: an increase of four thousand, eight hundred ninety two millions
• 1:16:01
  Speaker 4: over the preceding year. The cross income of the railroads
• 1:16:06
  Speaker 4: was one thousand, seventy five million dollars, an increase of
• 1:16:10
  Speaker 4: two millions, and the net income three hundred fifty millions,
• 1:16:14
  Speaker 4: an increase of seven point seven millions. The dividends declared
• 1:16:19
  Speaker 4: during the year amounted to fifty six millions, or about
• 1:16:23
  Speaker 4: one point one percent on the capitol stock hg end
• 1:16:30
  Speaker 4: of Section four.
• 1:16:37
  Speaker 1: Section five of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven, December
• 1:16:42
  Speaker 1: eighteen ninety six. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
• 1:16:46
  Speaker 1: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
• 1:16:49
  Speaker 1: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Geographic work in Peru.
• 1:16:56
  Speaker 1: In several of the South American republics, there are flourished
• 1:17:00
  Speaker 1: geographic societies there, as in Russia and a few other countries.
• 1:17:04
  Speaker 1: The geographic organization is a nucleus of general scientific activity,
• 1:17:09
  Speaker 1: and geography becomes the foster mother of various sciences, including geology, mineralogy, meteorology, botany, zoology, archaeology, ethnology, etc.
• 1:17:23
  Speaker 1: This is eminently true of the Socioda Giographica de Lima,
• 1:17:27
  Speaker 1: the leading scientific society of Peru. Its active membership is large, vigorous,
• 1:17:33
  Speaker 1: and widely distributed, including many of the best known professional
• 1:17:37
  Speaker 1: men and civil and military officers of the country. The
• 1:17:41
  Speaker 1: ex officio president is the President of the Republic, and
• 1:17:45
  Speaker 1: the ex officio Vice President is the Minister of Foreign Affairs.
• 1:17:49
  Speaker 1: The present President of the Council is doctor d. Luis
• 1:17:53
  Speaker 1: Caransa FRS, a widely known publicist, and the Secretary is
• 1:17:58
  Speaker 1: doctor D. Federi Ico elgneerra kinsman of, a diplomatic official
• 1:18:03
  Speaker 1: favorably known in Washington. The honorary membership includes several active
• 1:18:08
  Speaker 1: members of the National Geographic Society. The society issues a
• 1:18:13
  Speaker 1: bulletin of which the third trimester of the fifth volume
• 1:18:17
  Speaker 1: has recently appeared. Its contents indicate the breadth of the
• 1:18:20
  Speaker 1: field occupied by the society. The opening article is the
• 1:18:25
  Speaker 1: itinerary of Raimondi, el immortal Raimundi Creador de la gi
• 1:18:30
  Speaker 1: Rafia Peruana. As he is styled by a leading Peruvian
• 1:18:34
  Speaker 1: geographer among the Mountains of Juancayo in eighteen sixty six.
• 1:18:40
  Speaker 1: The second article is an exposition of a graphic method
• 1:18:43
  Speaker 1: of determining latitudes and meridians. The third is the report
• 1:18:47
  Speaker 1: of the delegate to the sixth International Geographic Congress in London.
• 1:18:52
  Speaker 1: Then follows a list of the common and systematic names
• 1:18:55
  Speaker 1: of Peruvian plants. Sixteen pages are devoted to a description
• 1:19:01
  Speaker 1: of Peruvian hydrography, and there is a classic contribution to
• 1:19:04
  Speaker 1: the knowledge of Aboriginal linguistics, occupying forty two of the
• 1:19:09
  Speaker 1: large octavo pages. A brief account of the Victoria Regia
• 1:19:13
  Speaker 1: Lorena de Lamazonas follows, and the fascicle closes with a
• 1:19:17
  Speaker 1: series of elaborate meteorologic records, including the official tables prepared
• 1:19:23
  Speaker 1: by the National Academy of Medicine. End of section.
• 1:19:27
  Speaker 2: Five Section six of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven,
• 1:19:39
  Speaker 2: December eighteen ninety six. This is a LibriVox recording. All
• 1:19:43
  Speaker 2: LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information
• 1:19:47
  Speaker 2: or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording by
• 1:19:53
  Speaker 2: Betty b. Geographic Literature, The Scenery of Switzerland and the
• 1:19:59
  Speaker 2: Causes to which it is due by Sir John Lubbock,
• 1:20:02
  Speaker 2: New York, McMillan and Company, eighteen ninety six. Two critics
• 1:20:08
  Speaker 2: of this one book have said, had not this volume
• 1:20:11
  Speaker 2: borne a well known name, we should have guessed it
• 1:20:13
  Speaker 2: to be the production of one or more geological students
• 1:20:18
  Speaker 2: who had read too many German textbooks and mixed their
• 1:20:21
  Speaker 2: notes with brief and simple extracts from the Diary of
• 1:20:26
  Speaker 2: a Swiss tour London Athenaeum, August first, eighteen ninety six.
• 1:20:32
  Speaker 2: And this admirable book shows how thoroughly a sagacious amateur
• 1:20:36
  Speaker 2: may follow, appreciate, and transmit to a large circle of
• 1:20:41
  Speaker 2: readers the best physiographic results gained by geologists and geographers
• 1:20:47
  Speaker 2: of Switzerland. Science, August seventh, eighteen ninety six. As the
• 1:20:53
  Speaker 2: latter opinion is my own, I naturally prefer it to
• 1:20:56
  Speaker 2: that of the London writer, who seems to me a
• 1:20:59
  Speaker 2: carping critic, unsympathetic and unappreciative. He gloats over misprints, he
• 1:21:05
  Speaker 2: dwells on mistakes of de Fordeux, he magnifies other trifling inaccuracies,
• 1:21:11
  Speaker 2: and thus fails to present to his readers a clear
• 1:21:14
  Speaker 2: idea of the intention of the book and of its
• 1:21:18
  Speaker 2: essentially successful accomplishment. As it seems to me the real
• 1:21:22
  Speaker 2: point of the book is this. Instead of contenting himself
• 1:21:26
  Speaker 2: after the fashion of the typical alpine clubmen with the
• 1:21:30
  Speaker 2: merely athletic ascent of a mountain peak, in itself, truly
• 1:21:34
  Speaker 2: a fine and invigorating exercise, lubbook has done much more,
• 1:21:39
  Speaker 2: for he has studied as well as climbed, and the
• 1:21:41
  Speaker 2: book is an effort to share with others the intellectual
• 1:21:45
  Speaker 2: entertainment thus gained. As he says, my attention was from
• 1:21:50
  Speaker 2: the first directed to the interesting problems presented by the
• 1:21:54
  Speaker 2: physical geography of the country. I long to know what
• 1:21:58
  Speaker 2: forces had raised the monts, had hollowed out the lakes,
• 1:22:02
  Speaker 2: and directed the rivers. During all my holidays, these questions
• 1:22:06
  Speaker 2: have occupied my thoughts, and I have read much of
• 1:22:10
  Speaker 2: what has been written about them. Speaking of the plan
• 1:22:13
  Speaker 2: of his book, he adds, I urged Tyndall and several
• 1:22:17
  Speaker 2: others far better qualified than I am myself, to give
• 1:22:21
  Speaker 2: us such a volume, feeling sure that it would be
• 1:22:24
  Speaker 2: welcome to our countrymen, and add both to the pleasure
• 1:22:28
  Speaker 2: and to the interest of their Swiss trips. They were
• 1:22:31
  Speaker 2: all however otherwise occupied. But they encouraged me to attempt it,
• 1:22:36
  Speaker 2: promising me their valuable assistance, and this must be my
• 1:22:39
  Speaker 2: excuse for undertaking the task, perhaps prematurely. The book is
• 1:22:45
  Speaker 2: a very welcome contribution to popular scientific literature, and the
• 1:22:50
  Speaker 2: more so because it is upon a subject that is
• 1:22:53
  Speaker 2: called forth singularly little writing of this class, in spite
• 1:22:57
  Speaker 2: of the rich variety of its materials. It gives a
• 1:23:01
  Speaker 2: brief account of the geology of the Alps, of the
• 1:23:04
  Speaker 2: origin of mountains in general, and of the structural features
• 1:23:07
  Speaker 2: of the mountains of Switzerland in particular. Then follow chapters
• 1:23:12
  Speaker 2: on ice and glaciers, on rivers, valleys and lakes, and
• 1:23:16
  Speaker 2: on the influence of the strata on scenery nearly two
• 1:23:20
  Speaker 2: hundred pages en sous on special districts of the Alps,
• 1:23:24
  Speaker 2: such as the Jura, the Central Plain, Mount Blanc, the
• 1:23:28
  Speaker 2: Bernese Oberland, the Rhine, the Russ and the Engadine. Nowhere
• 1:23:33
  Speaker 2: else can the intelligent reader or observant traveler so readily
• 1:23:38
  Speaker 2: gain a general view of the results attained by specialists.
• 1:23:42
  Speaker 2: One may amusedly regret that snow is spoken of as
• 1:23:47
  Speaker 2: having eight sided crystals, and at the same time, enjoy
• 1:23:50
  Speaker 2: the account of avalanches and of moraines, which will surely
• 1:23:55
  Speaker 2: edify many an inquiring traveler. Perhaps two names, Celanche and
• 1:24:01
  Speaker 2: sealantf are confused. But where else shall we go for
• 1:24:05
  Speaker 2: a simple and accessible English rendering of such studies as
• 1:24:09
  Speaker 2: hymes on the former course of the Rhine or the
• 1:24:12
  Speaker 2: beheading of the Inn. As a consequence of the latter accident,
• 1:24:17
  Speaker 2: four little lakes have been formed on the valley floor,
• 1:24:21
  Speaker 2: barred by alluvial fans thrown out by the lateral streams.
• 1:24:25
  Speaker 2: Here is the best example that can now be quoted
• 1:24:28
  Speaker 2: of this peculiar species of lakes. Yet the Athenaeum critic
• 1:24:32
  Speaker 2: will have it that they are not caused by dams
• 1:24:36
  Speaker 2: formed by lateral streams, but by the rocky barriers above
• 1:24:40
  Speaker 2: and below the Lake of Saint Maritz, lateral streams have
• 1:24:44
  Speaker 2: only divided in two places, the upper lake. Having a
• 1:24:48
  Speaker 2: particular interest in lakes of this class, I wrote to
• 1:24:51
  Speaker 2: Professor Him of Zurich for fuller particulars. It being from
• 1:24:56
  Speaker 2: his original study that Lubbock took his account. In reply,
• 1:25:01
  Speaker 2: Heim gives details confirming his original statement and justifying Lubbock's
• 1:25:06
  Speaker 2: abstract of it. A valuable list of works and authors
• 1:25:10
  Speaker 2: referred to is given in an appendix. An index is
• 1:25:14
  Speaker 2: unfortunately wanting. One of the chief values of Lubbock's book
• 1:25:19
  Speaker 2: lies in its being so manifestly the work of one
• 1:25:22
  Speaker 2: who has enjoyed the study and observation required in its preparation.
• 1:25:28
  Speaker 2: The author may still spell shamonis shamois. Perhaps as a
• 1:25:33
  Speaker 2: very busy man, he may leave proofreading to others. We
• 1:25:37
  Speaker 2: hope he gives his own time to higher pursuits. But
• 1:25:40
  Speaker 2: he certainly shows himself a generous man in taking the
• 1:25:43
  Speaker 2: pains to make so accessible to many others the beauties
• 1:25:47
  Speaker 2: of nature that he has himself appreciated so well. W. M.
• 1:25:53
  Speaker 2: Davis Fry's Home and School Atlas, Boston, Gin and Company
• 1:25:59
  Speaker 2: a time tween ninety six one dollar fifteen cents by mail.
• 1:26:04
  Speaker 2: This is a by product of the Fry series of
• 1:26:06
  Speaker 2: school geographies. It contains twenty four geographic maps, nine of
• 1:26:11
  Speaker 2: which are devoted to the United States and ten to
• 1:26:14
  Speaker 2: other parts of the world, the remainder being historical and commercial.
• 1:26:19
  Speaker 2: These are well indexed and are convenient for ordinary use,
• 1:26:23
  Speaker 2: although upon very small scales. There is also a series
• 1:26:27
  Speaker 2: of relief maps of the continents and principal countries, and
• 1:26:31
  Speaker 2: the work concludes with climatic and industrial maps of the
• 1:26:34
  Speaker 2: United States with descriptive text, tables, et cetera. Lakes of
• 1:26:40
  Speaker 2: North America A reading lesson for students of geography and
• 1:26:44
  Speaker 2: Geology by Israel C. Russell, Professor of Geology in the
• 1:26:49
  Speaker 2: University of Michigan. Pages Roman Numeral eleven plus one hundred
• 1:26:54
  Speaker 2: twenty five with thirty two illustrations, Boston, Gin and Company,
• 1:26:59
  Speaker 2: eighteen nine nine. This little book is a treatise on
• 1:27:03
  Speaker 2: lakes in the light of the new geography. It classifies
• 1:27:07
  Speaker 2: lakes by the origin of their basins as those doue
• 1:27:10
  Speaker 2: to atmospheric, aqueous, glacial, volcanic, and other agencies. It treats
• 1:27:16
  Speaker 2: of the movements of lake waters as tides, waves and currents,
• 1:27:21
  Speaker 2: the effect of lakes upon climate, and the flow of streams.
• 1:27:25
  Speaker 2: It describes the characteristic topography of lake shores as cliffs, terraces, banks, deltas, etc.
• 1:27:35
  Speaker 2: The characteristics of fresh waters and saline lakes are given.
• 1:27:39
  Speaker 2: Life histories of lakes are detailed, and the book closes
• 1:27:43
  Speaker 2: with studies of certain lakes living and extinct, including the
• 1:27:48
  Speaker 2: Laurentian Lakes. Lakes Agazies, Bonneville and La Hontan. The book
• 1:27:54
  Speaker 2: is an exceptionally fine contribution to the science of physiography.
• 1:27:58
  Speaker 2: It is delightfully written, and the illustrations are in keeping
• 1:28:02
  Speaker 2: with the matter of the work. End of Section six,
• 1:28:13
  Speaker 2: Section seven of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven, December
• 1:28:18
  Speaker 2: eighteen ninety six. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
• 1:28:23
  Speaker 2: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
• 1:28:27
  Speaker 2: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording by Betty B.
• 1:28:34
  Speaker 2: Geographic Notes Asia, Japan. Arrangements are being made for a
• 1:28:40
  Speaker 2: direct line of steamers to run between Japan and the
• 1:28:43
  Speaker 2: Black Sea ports Siberia. The West Siberian Railway has been
• 1:28:48
  Speaker 2: brought into direct communication with the principal railway systems of Europe.
• 1:28:54
  Speaker 2: The expeditions sent out by the Russian Geographical Society for
• 1:28:58
  Speaker 2: the exploration of the Urkhatz region will be absent three
• 1:29:03
  Speaker 2: years Africa trans val. The final count makes the population
• 1:29:09
  Speaker 2: of Johannesburg according to the recent census, one hundred, two thousand,
• 1:29:14
  Speaker 2: seventy eight. Of the fifty thousand, nine hundred seven whites,
• 1:29:19
  Speaker 2: only six thousand, two hundred five were born in the
• 1:29:22
  Speaker 2: trans val Egypt. The re embarkation of the Indian troops
• 1:29:27
  Speaker 2: for Bombay disposes of the statement that the Anglo Egyptian
• 1:29:32
  Speaker 2: Army would soon continue its march southward beyond Dongola. Up
• 1:29:38
  Speaker 2: to the end of eighteen ninety five, nine hundred miles
• 1:29:41
  Speaker 2: of agricultural roads were completed. The construction of a system
• 1:29:45
  Speaker 2: of light railways for the transportation of agricultural produce has
• 1:29:50
  Speaker 2: also been authorized. Natal. The revenue for the fiscal year
• 1:29:55
  Speaker 2: eighteen ninety four ninety five was one million, one hundred
• 1:29:59
  Speaker 2: six sixty nine thousand, seven hundred eighty pounds and the
• 1:30:03
  Speaker 2: expenditures of one million, one hundred forty eight thousand, ninety
• 1:30:08
  Speaker 2: three pounds. In a recent lecture at the London Imperial Institute,
• 1:30:13
  Speaker 2: Professor Crooks stated that the colony of Natal contains more
• 1:30:17
  Speaker 2: coal than existed in Great Britain before a single ton
• 1:30:21
  Speaker 2: was raised Tunis. After fourteen years of French occupation, Tunis
• 1:30:27
  Speaker 2: contains only three thousand French inhabitants, as compared with seven
• 1:30:32
  Speaker 2: thousand Maltese and eight thousand Italians. The colonizing efforts of
• 1:30:37
  Speaker 2: the government have been attended with but little success, but
• 1:30:41
  Speaker 2: French rule is regarded as being in the main beneficial
• 1:30:45
  Speaker 2: Australasia New South Wales. During the recent session of Parliament,
• 1:30:51
  Speaker 2: some slight amendments were made in the land Laws with
• 1:30:54
  Speaker 2: a view to further facilitating the settlement of the colony,
• 1:30:58
  Speaker 2: which is said to be made making remarkable progress Victoria.
• 1:31:03
  Speaker 2: During the last three years, the city of Melbourne has
• 1:31:06
  Speaker 2: lost forty thousand of its population. The prosperity the agricultural
• 1:31:11
  Speaker 2: industry of the colony affording superior attractions to the pursuits
• 1:31:16
  Speaker 2: of the capital city. The Colony of Victoria has shown
• 1:31:20
  Speaker 2: remarkable energy in opening up an extensive export trade with
• 1:31:24
  Speaker 2: Great Britain. The colonial government has practically assumed control of
• 1:31:29
  Speaker 2: the trade, and its contracts with two of the principal
• 1:31:32
  Speaker 2: lines of steamers enable shipments to be made at extraordinarily
• 1:31:37
  Speaker 2: low rates, the charge for butter, cheese and meat being
• 1:31:41
  Speaker 2: only one and a half sends per pound for the
• 1:31:44
  Speaker 2: voyage from Melbourne to London in cold storage. The butter
• 1:31:48
  Speaker 2: shipments to London from this single colony last year were
• 1:31:52
  Speaker 2: close on to twenty six million pounds valued at five million,
• 1:31:57
  Speaker 2: four hundred six thousand, two hundred fifteen. West Australia. Intelligence
• 1:32:04
  Speaker 2: has been received of the arrival at Fitzroy River in
• 1:32:08
  Speaker 2: the northern part of West Australia on November sixth of
• 1:32:11
  Speaker 2: the expedition, which left Adelaide in May, lasts for the
• 1:32:15
  Speaker 2: exploration of the interior of Southern and Western Australia. Two
• 1:32:20
  Speaker 2: members of the party are missing and the survivors suffered
• 1:32:24
  Speaker 2: great hardships and had to abandon their effects and scientific collection.
• 1:32:30
  Speaker 2: Polar Regions and Arctic. July fifteenth, eighteen ninety seven is
• 1:32:35
  Speaker 2: the day fixed for the starting of the Belgian Antarctic Expedition.
• 1:32:40
  Speaker 2: The voyage is expected to be completed within two years,
• 1:32:43
  Speaker 2: but a three years supply of provisions will be taken.
• 1:32:47
  Speaker 2: The steamer, the Belgica, will go first to the east
• 1:32:51
  Speaker 2: of Graham's Land in George the Fourth Sea, and then
• 1:32:54
  Speaker 2: winter in Australia. The second year will be devoted to
• 1:32:58
  Speaker 2: Victoria Land. Steamer will be well equipped for scientific investigations
• 1:33:03
  Speaker 2: as to marine specimens and submarine deposits. End of section seven.
• 1:33:16
  Speaker 3: Section eight of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven, December
• 1:33:21
  Speaker 3: eighteen ninety six. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
• 1:33:26
  Speaker 3: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
• 1:33:30
  Speaker 3: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Miscellania, the resources
• 1:33:39
  Speaker 3: and attractions of the Far West could hardly be more
• 1:33:42
  Speaker 3: interestingly and at the same time more fairly set forth
• 1:33:46
  Speaker 3: than is done in the corn Belt, an illustrated monthly
• 1:33:50
  Speaker 3: publication of the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad. The heated
• 1:33:56
  Speaker 3: term from July twenty eighth to August seventeen last is
• 1:34:00
  Speaker 3: stated by Professor H. A. Hazen in the monthly Weather
• 1:34:04
  Speaker 3: Review for August to have covered a larger region and
• 1:34:07
  Speaker 3: given abnormal heat on a greater number of consecutive days
• 1:34:12
  Speaker 3: than ever before recorded. Always full of good things, thoroughly
• 1:34:18
  Speaker 3: up to date, and for the most part admirably illustrated.
• 1:34:22
  Speaker 3: Knowledge published monthly in London deserves to be better known
• 1:34:27
  Speaker 3: in the United States than is indicated by its somewhat
• 1:34:30
  Speaker 3: rare appearance in our libraries and use rooms. Boltine del
• 1:34:36
  Speaker 3: Instituto Geologico de Mexico, number three, by doctor Carlos Sapper,
• 1:34:41
  Speaker 3: is devoted to the geology and physical geography of Yucatan.
• 1:34:46
  Speaker 3: It includes chapters on the agricultural and mineral production of
• 1:34:50
  Speaker 3: the peninsula and a valuable supplement containing meteorological tables and
• 1:34:55
  Speaker 3: elevation of three hundred sixty three principal points in the
• 1:34:58
  Speaker 3: province described. Four hundred Illinois teachers attended the course of
• 1:35:04
  Speaker 3: lectures on physical geography recently delivered at the University of
• 1:35:08
  Speaker 3: Chicago by Professor Albert Berry Brigham of Colgate University. The
• 1:35:14
  Speaker 3: lectures were practically limited to the illustrative study of landforms,
• 1:35:18
  Speaker 3: but the audience was led from definitions and elementary principles
• 1:35:23
  Speaker 3: to the relation of physical geography to history and to
• 1:35:26
  Speaker 3: industrial development, in a manner that must have proved as
• 1:35:30
  Speaker 3: delightful as it was instructive. End of Section eight, end
• 1:35:37
  Speaker 3: of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume seven, December eighteen ninety six.