Latest / The MeatEater Podcast / Ep. 730: Dispatches from Africa - So You Wanna Be A Professional Hunter?
Transcript
- 0:29Speaker 1: Welcome to Africa Dispatch flop three. And first, before we
- 0:34Speaker 1: even introduce who we're talking right now, we got to
- 0:36Speaker 1: address the elephant in the room, which is this.
- 0:40Speaker 2: Tell my mound.
- 0:41Speaker 1: Yeah, this is for you people watching not listening. This
- 0:45Speaker 1: is one of the most This is like a major
- 0:48Speaker 1: feature of the landscape. Is this is a termite hill.
- 0:55Speaker 1: They're everywhere.
- 0:56Speaker 2: Yeah, and they go a little bit of an iceberg
- 0:58Speaker 2: kind of thing, goang on. What you see above ground
- 1:00Speaker 2: is much less than what's underground, So that's maybe a
- 1:04Speaker 2: third of what's actually going on.
- 1:05Speaker 1: Yeah, and this thing is it's a mound, looks like
- 1:08Speaker 1: a mount of dirt probably nine maybe nine feet high,
- 1:12Speaker 1: eight or nine feet high, riddled with holes. But they're
- 1:17Speaker 1: all over out here. And there's even a fancy term
- 1:19Speaker 1: for this. Because we're in a big we're near a
- 1:21Speaker 1: big lake shore and so we're in a big like
- 1:23Speaker 1: big open grass flat. It's kind of reminiscent of it
- 1:30Speaker 1: would be reminiscent of like oak savannah in the US
- 1:33Speaker 1: or in Florida. You get that grass lane with the
- 1:37Speaker 1: I'm not trying to think of seth the Yeah, the
- 1:41Speaker 1: grassland with the oak hammocks. But these hammocks are often
- 1:45Speaker 1: based around these giant termite mounds, which have a name.
- 1:48Speaker 1: It's a Morgan, the little territory made by the turmite mound, Turmitalia.
- 2:00Speaker 3: And then all these trees have what's called termitalia association,
- 2:05Speaker 3: so they like the.
- 2:06Speaker 2: Kind a bit of a symbolt relationship that's.
- 2:09Speaker 3: Created by the kind of moistured humidity that's going on
- 2:12Speaker 3: inside that termite mountain.
- 2:14Speaker 1: Yeah. So if you were here scanning around, it's all grass.
- 2:18Speaker 1: If it's standing up, it's like six foot grass with
- 2:21Speaker 1: all these little clusters of trees here and there, and
- 2:24Speaker 1: they're built around these giant termite mountains. With dad, said
- 2:28Speaker 1: George Dodds, George Dodds, who we're going to talk to
- 2:33Speaker 1: him today because he is doing his second year apprenticeship
- 2:38Speaker 1: to become a professional hunter. Right, and you are what's
- 2:42Speaker 1: known as you have to explain as the people you're
- 2:45Speaker 1: a white Kenyon.
- 2:46Speaker 2: I'm a white Kenyon.
- 2:46Speaker 1: Yeah, explain explain that everybody.
- 2:48Speaker 2: Yeah, fifth generation Kenyon. My great grandfather came to Kenya
- 2:54Speaker 2: in the early nineteen hundreds and yeah, we've we've born
- 2:58Speaker 2: and bred every generations. Yeah, out of small small farming
- 3:02Speaker 2: area in Kenya called like Keipia, yeah, which is sort
- 3:05Speaker 2: of slightly north of central central Kenya.
- 3:08Speaker 1: And you guys farm and ranch there, Yeah.
- 3:11Speaker 2: Yeah, I correct, terminalogy would be a ranch. Yeah, so
- 3:15Speaker 2: an indigenous cattlegory called the barn cattle and it's just
- 3:19Speaker 2: a just a bit of a ranch and a small
- 3:21Speaker 2: bit of crop farming. But yeah, full of full of game. Yeah,
- 3:26Speaker 2: much like much like what we got going on here,
- 3:28Speaker 2: just wilderness really top people.
- 3:31Speaker 1: White. Elephants hate drones.
- 3:33Speaker 2: Sound like bees. Elephants hate bees.
- 3:35Speaker 1: I know elephants hated bees.
- 3:36Speaker 2: Yeah, a lot of a lot of small scale farmers
- 3:39Speaker 2: actually put put beehives up around their crops because their
- 3:42Speaker 2: elephants just hate that noise and it really helps them
- 3:44Speaker 2: keep them away from their crops. Yeah, it's incredible.
- 3:47Speaker 1: So when you guys, what is the number one things
- 3:50Speaker 1: that do crop damage in Kenya? The number one like
- 3:54Speaker 1: farm and ranch.
- 3:56Speaker 2: Hassles, Elephant would probably have the biggest impact just because
- 3:59Speaker 2: of shifts eyes. So you know, they they get into
- 4:03Speaker 2: a small small piece of land, they do a huge
- 4:05Speaker 2: amount of damage. They can they can you know, a
- 4:08Speaker 2: group of elephant can clean out acres in a matter
- 4:10Speaker 2: of hours of a maze crop. So yeah, they they
- 4:13Speaker 2: probably do the biggest damage. And then we've got the
- 4:16Speaker 2: bird species, the colia, which also do a massive amount
- 4:19Speaker 2: of damage, but sort of large large mammals would definitely
- 4:22Speaker 2: be would be elephant, and they're also so clever. They're
- 4:25Speaker 2: how to break electric fences. Yeah, they can think about
- 4:30Speaker 2: how to get into it and what kind of stuff
- 4:31Speaker 2: kills your cable. Lions mostly lions and leopard leopard. Leopard
- 4:36Speaker 2: will take out our calves, but lions take out our big,
- 4:40Speaker 2: our big, fully grown animals.
- 4:42Speaker 1: It doesn't on your like on your ranch at any
- 4:46Speaker 1: given time, there could be African lions, elephants and leopards
- 4:52Speaker 1: could be like on in among your live style. Yeah.
- 4:56Speaker 2: We we've usually got about four resident lions on the
- 4:59Speaker 2: on the farm, on the ranch, and anywhere up to
- 5:03Speaker 2: sixty elephant at one time. They move a lot depending
- 5:06Speaker 2: on season and water availability as well as you know
- 5:09Speaker 2: the cropping season for small scale farmers around us. So
- 5:12Speaker 2: they'll move into an area when they when the crops
- 5:15Speaker 2: are nearly ripening and they'll come in and eat it. Yeah,
- 5:19Speaker 2: and then a lot of leopard it's quite thick bush
- 5:22Speaker 2: where we are. And then yeah, we've got the buffalo
- 5:25Speaker 2: eland and all the all the antelope species as well.
- 5:29Speaker 1: You know, a peculiarity of Kenya, or maybe it's not
- 5:33Speaker 1: so peculiar in terms of all African countries, but I
- 5:36Speaker 1: think that always has surprised me as I've tried learning
- 5:40Speaker 1: a little bit about Africa, reading books about Africa. Is
- 5:42Speaker 1: that Kenya years ago in the seventies, I believe banned honting. Yeah,
- 5:48Speaker 1: I mean just like banned hunting across the across the board.
- 5:52Speaker 1: What was that conversation? Like why did that occur?
- 5:56Speaker 2: And I can't speak much to why. You know, I
- 5:58Speaker 2: wasn't I wasn't around then, but yeah, they banned all
- 6:03Speaker 2: large game hunting. They kept bird hunting for a long time.
- 6:06Speaker 2: I think that was banned in the sort of mid
- 6:09Speaker 2: two thousands. But yeah, they banned all sort of planes
- 6:14Speaker 2: game dangerous game hunting, and I think seventy six, seventy seven,
- 6:18Speaker 2: and yeah, no chance of it opening anytime soon.
- 6:20Speaker 1: Again, was it like when it happened? Was it a
- 6:24Speaker 1: regarded as a conservation move or does a cultural move?
- 6:27Speaker 2: I think a conservation move. I think there was a
- 6:29Speaker 2: lot of pressure to sort of move with the times.
- 6:33Speaker 2: I think that was sort of the driving force and yeah,
- 6:36Speaker 2: so definitely a big conservation move.
- 6:38Speaker 1: Really. Yeah, so even though you grew so growing up
- 6:40Speaker 1: in Kenya, you've come to like you would go elsewhere
- 6:46Speaker 1: in Africa and do big game hunting. Yeah. Yeah, like
- 6:49Speaker 1: like I imagine would it feel You're probably out from the States,
- 6:52Speaker 1: But I mean, is it fairly easy and fluid to
- 6:56Speaker 1: bounce around and hunt?
- 6:58Speaker 3: It is?
- 6:59Speaker 2: It is, it's it's definitely we can. We can access areas.
- 7:03Speaker 2: I mean, Southern Africa is probably the most popular and
- 7:06Speaker 2: most accessible, but definitely Tanzania, Uganda, Central and Central Africa,
- 7:12Speaker 2: Cameroon's we can. You know, you can get to these places.
- 7:16Speaker 1: But you're prior to the band you were from, you
- 7:19Speaker 1: were you guys were a hunting family. Yeah.
- 7:22Speaker 2: Yeah, we my sort of great grandparents and great great
- 7:26Speaker 2: grandparents were all we're all hunters and yeah, I've been
- 7:30Speaker 2: doing it, doing it for a long time and still shooting.
- 7:34Speaker 2: We do a lot of sort of sports shooting. A
- 7:36Speaker 2: lot of sports shooting is big in Kenya and that's yeah,
- 7:40Speaker 2: so it's there's no hunting, but there's still a lot
- 7:42Speaker 2: of a lot of sports shooting, fish, a lot of fishing.
- 7:45Speaker 2: Great fishing some really interesting species as well.
- 7:48Speaker 1: Describe the fishing to me, like, what what kind of
- 7:50Speaker 1: fishing as a person doing Kenya.
- 7:52Speaker 2: Sort of recreational fishing. Probably some of the most popular
- 7:55Speaker 2: benal perch, which is a really big I mean they
- 7:59Speaker 2: used to get up to sort of two hundred, two
- 8:01Speaker 2: hundred and fifty pounds freshwater fish.
- 8:03Speaker 1: Oh, I thought nile perch is a tilapia.
- 8:06Speaker 2: No, no, so noile perch eat lapia. That's that's a
- 8:09Speaker 2: really good bait that we use live bait. That's not
- 8:12Speaker 2: the same thing, totally different, much bigger. Yeah, I mean
- 8:16Speaker 2: when we're fishing for big, big noil perch, we'll use
- 8:19Speaker 2: up to a two pounds size to lapia to catch
- 8:22Speaker 2: a now perch.
- 8:23Speaker 1: Yeah.
- 8:23Speaker 2: Yeah, they they're big, and they're they're a bit like
- 8:27Speaker 2: bass in the way they sort of ambush and love structure.
- 8:31Speaker 2: So it's really fun fishing.
- 8:33Speaker 1: Yeah, and you you we we do.
- 8:38Speaker 2: We keep the little ones. I mean, they're they're they're
- 8:40Speaker 2: getting a bit rare now, the numbers. There's a lot
- 8:43Speaker 2: of pressure on them, fishing pressure, so we release a
- 8:45Speaker 2: lot of the big ones. But they're they're very good
- 8:48Speaker 2: eating and where we catch them is a place of
- 8:52Speaker 2: absolute beauty. Most guys fishing in a place called Lake Takana,
- 8:56Speaker 2: which is I think the one of, if not the
- 9:00Speaker 2: longest desert lake in the world, which is northern Kenya.
- 9:03Speaker 2: And it's what we would call a safari, not a
- 9:06Speaker 2: hunting safari, but a safari just getting there, take you
- 9:08Speaker 2: two or three days, all offer a driving, no access
- 9:13Speaker 2: to sort of shops or anything like that. So yeah,
- 9:16Speaker 2: it's it's a bit of an adventure just getting there,
- 9:19Speaker 2: which makes it really special.
- 9:21Speaker 1: Yeah. Yeah, I want to refer real quick to the
- 9:26Speaker 1: to the very familiar uniform that people might see with
- 9:30Speaker 1: with people from Africa, the hunt. Yeah, you guys were
- 9:35Speaker 1: on the shorts. Yeah, you know you're getting malled all
- 9:37Speaker 1: day by tetsi flies.
- 9:39Speaker 2: Yeah. I hate hunting in all sort of cruising around
- 9:44Speaker 2: in trousers. I just get too hot. I run hot.
- 9:46Speaker 1: Oh yeah. But then the flip side is you get
- 9:48Speaker 1: marled by fly.
- 9:49Speaker 2: More by flies. I kind of look at it that,
- 9:52Speaker 2: you know, you kind of just let them eat you
- 9:54Speaker 2: for two weeks and then your body gets used to it,
- 9:57Speaker 2: does it.
- 9:57Speaker 1: Yeah, Because I'm kind of like a few of us,
- 10:01Speaker 1: a few of US Americans are having some mic and
- 10:05Speaker 1: some body feelings.
- 10:07Speaker 2: Yeah, I know, we all, we all get those.
- 10:08Speaker 1: Yeah.
- 10:08Speaker 2: I first week is always tough.
- 10:11Speaker 1: Like a tingly poison ivy kind of feel from too
- 10:15Speaker 1: many TESTSI fly some welts. Yeah, but that fades away.
- 10:19Speaker 2: Yeah, yeah, after one of two weeks it goes.
- 10:22Speaker 1: Yeah, and you run those cute little gators.
- 10:24Speaker 2: Yeah, run the gators. Keep the birds and everything out
- 10:27Speaker 2: of the socks.
- 10:28Speaker 1: Yeah. Let's keep your socks clean.
- 10:29Speaker 2: Yeah, keep the socks clean. Nothing worse than it she socks. Yeah,
- 10:32Speaker 2: and then just some good quiet leather boots.
- 10:34Speaker 1: Yeah. You want to like, I understand, you get your
- 10:40Speaker 1: ranch responsibilities, but you're doing an apprenticeship to become a
- 10:44Speaker 1: professional hunter, indeed, to work to hunt in Tanzani and
- 10:47Speaker 1: be a hunting what would professional hunt being like what
- 10:49Speaker 1: we would recall, you know, a hunting guide in Tanzania. Yeah. Uh,
- 10:53Speaker 1: does that mean you're gonna walk away from ranching?
- 10:55Speaker 2: No, I'll do it part time. You know, hunting is
- 10:59Speaker 2: very seasonal and also depends on how many trips you
- 11:02Speaker 2: can do, So I'll definitely sort of stay on the farm,
- 11:05Speaker 2: run the farm, and then when I get a when
- 11:07Speaker 2: I get a trip, I'll come down and do the work.
- 11:10Speaker 1: Yeah, what draws you to do in the professional hunting?
- 11:13Speaker 2: I just I'm I grew up a bush kid on
- 11:16Speaker 2: the farm, you know, just being outdoors. Both my parents
- 11:20Speaker 2: were photographic guides as well. My mum was a botanist,
- 11:24Speaker 2: so yeah, she described some species of pint, Yeah, described
- 11:27Speaker 2: a few. She specialized in aloes, so you know, aloverra
- 11:30Speaker 2: sort of African species, So she's described a couple of
- 11:32Speaker 2: couple of aloes. So my childhood was sort of spent
- 11:37Speaker 2: traveling across Kenya and into Ethiopia searching for different species
- 11:42Speaker 2: of plants, which took us to some incredible places, far
- 11:46Speaker 2: out places that most people don't go to, off the
- 11:48Speaker 2: beaten track, and just fell in love with being in
- 11:52Speaker 2: the bush and just yeah, it just gelled with me.
- 11:55Speaker 2: And this is this is as close as I can
- 11:57Speaker 2: get to.
- 11:57Speaker 1: That is the process formal meaning you have to do
- 12:01Speaker 1: two years of apprenticeship. Is that because of who you want,
- 12:03Speaker 1: because you want to work for Robin Hurt Safaris? Or
- 12:06Speaker 1: is that a government thing?
- 12:07Speaker 2: It's it's a government thing. I think that's a standard
- 12:12Speaker 2: standard for all all want to be professional hunters. You've
- 12:15Speaker 2: got to do an apprenticeship with one of the recognized
- 12:18Speaker 2: hunting outfitters or hunting companies like Robin Hurtsafaris. And then
- 12:22Speaker 2: once you finished that, then you've got a theoretical exam
- 12:27Speaker 2: which is pretty heavy, and you've got to get all
- 12:31Speaker 2: the law and everything. It's quite it's quite extensive. Yeah,
- 12:34Speaker 2: So you finish your two years of apprenticeship, I think obviously,
- 12:38Speaker 2: you know you have to be recommended to actually sit
- 12:41Speaker 2: the exam. So if you if you've done your apprenticeship
- 12:44Speaker 2: and the outfitter thinks, oh, he's not up to the task,
- 12:47Speaker 2: you just won't be recommended to sit the exam, and
- 12:50Speaker 2: then you can't sit the exam without a recommendation, got it.
- 12:53Speaker 1: Yeah. Morgan mentioned to me, like I was kind of
- 12:57Speaker 1: marveling how he was one in Australia, came here and
- 13:01Speaker 1: learned the Swahili language Qui Swahili as says, and he said,
- 13:08Speaker 1: you can kid yourself and think you can do it
- 13:10Speaker 1: without but you gotta have Yeah. Absolutely, But Keny in Kenya,
- 13:14Speaker 1: the national language is English.
- 13:17Speaker 2: It's it's it's also ki okay. Kiswahili is very it's
- 13:21Speaker 2: very different to Tanzanian Kiswahili. So the first couple of
- 13:25Speaker 2: months for me. Every time I get back down here
- 13:27Speaker 2: is quite a challenge. I would describe Tanzani and Swahelia
- 13:31Speaker 2: as sort of a very very correct, very polite language,
- 13:37Speaker 2: whereas sorry, which one is Tanzanian, whereas kenyansweely is quite colloquial,
- 13:42Speaker 2: a lot of other languages thrown in there.
- 13:45Speaker 1: So I can.
- 13:47Speaker 2: I can converse with anyone back home in Kenya and
- 13:49Speaker 2: they'll understand me. But I need to think a bit
- 13:52Speaker 2: and and sort of use the correct words and not
- 13:55Speaker 2: sort of use all these colloquialisms that we use in Kenya. Yeah,
- 13:59Speaker 2: so it's it's tricky, and yeah, I think if you
- 14:01Speaker 2: don't speak Swahili, yeah, I mean most of our most
- 14:04Speaker 2: of our guys don't speak English language. Barrier is a
- 14:07Speaker 2: big thing.
- 14:08Speaker 1: So did you grow up you grew up bilingual? Yeah?
- 14:10Speaker 2: Yeah, I actually I actually spoke to Heli before I
- 14:12Speaker 2: spoke English. My My mom and dad said, well, he's
- 14:16Speaker 2: obviously gonna speak English. You know, I went to an
- 14:18Speaker 2: English English boarding school. So they just said, okay, everyone
- 14:22Speaker 2: don't speak to these kids in English speak, and they
- 14:25Speaker 2: spoke to us in Swahili until we were fluent in
- 14:28Speaker 2: Swahili and then once we were fluent, then they spoke
- 14:30Speaker 2: spoke to us in English. Yeah, which has been a godsend.
- 14:34Speaker 1: So you'll you'll finish a prenticing this year, yeah, and
- 14:38Speaker 1: then next season and we should clarify a season is
- 14:42Speaker 1: what do you guys think about as the season the
- 14:44Speaker 1: hunting season.
- 14:45Speaker 2: So typically in western Tanzania where we are now, it'll
- 14:48Speaker 2: be from from July up to October. So yeah, so
- 14:52Speaker 2: hopefully by by next next July, I'll be I'll be
- 14:55Speaker 2: fully qualified before it goes well and.
- 14:57Speaker 1: You might come here and hunt.
- 14:59Speaker 2: That would be that's to go. Yeah, this is this, Yeah,
- 15:02Speaker 2: this is the standard for me. This this loupganz or
- 15:04Speaker 2: tonge gamers of his. Yeah, it's unbelievable. It's as you've seen. Yeah,
- 15:13Speaker 2: that's the thing that you know. Prior to coming here,
- 15:15Speaker 2: I went out to Massi Land. Yeah, you know, and
- 15:19Speaker 2: that was so cool in its own right where you're
- 15:24Speaker 2: you know, you're out in that like very desert like
- 15:27Speaker 2: open grassland and you know, every couple of hours or
- 15:33Speaker 2: whatever you see, you're seeing.
- 15:35Speaker 1: I mean, well, one, you can never look around and
- 15:37Speaker 1: not find in the open you can never look around
- 15:40Speaker 1: and not find animals. Absolutely, there's always something there. But
- 15:45Speaker 1: every couple hours or whatever, there's like a group of
- 15:49Speaker 1: Massi kids with like yeah, their parents. You know, they
- 15:55Speaker 1: make water runs with donkeys loaded with jugs of water.
- 15:58Speaker 1: So you'll see a string of you know, women with
- 16:01Speaker 1: you know, a dozen donkeys lower water going across and
- 16:04Speaker 1: it's like a working landscape and mixed within this is
- 16:07Speaker 1: all this wildlife and it's it's stunning, it's like amazing.
- 16:10Speaker 1: But here you are in like one of the pure, pure,
- 16:16Speaker 1: more vast chunks of wilderness I've ever been in. Yeah.
- 16:19Speaker 2: Absolutely, I think we've got different sort of classes of
- 16:21Speaker 2: land use in these in these wildlife areas in Tanzania,
- 16:25Speaker 2: and this this area is a game reserve, so there's
- 16:28Speaker 2: no there's no permanent settlement, there's no semi permanent settlement.
- 16:32Speaker 2: The only access guys will have is permitted honey harvesting,
- 16:36Speaker 2: which is you'll see you've seen all those bee hives.
- 16:40Speaker 1: It's incredible.
- 16:41Speaker 2: So we get guys coming in about twice a year
- 16:44Speaker 2: to come and check on their hives, harvest their honey.
- 16:46Speaker 2: But other than that, it's it's pristine wilderness. Yeah, there's
- 16:49Speaker 2: no one here. There's nothing here yeah.
- 16:52Speaker 1: And then when you start, you'll you'll engage with clients. Yeah.
- 16:58Speaker 1: Now do you imagine, like, do you imagine that you
- 17:02Speaker 1: are probably have clients from off the continent.
- 17:04Speaker 2: Right, Yeah, absolutely. I think the majority is is is
- 17:10Speaker 2: American clients or European clients. So yeah, that's the that's
- 17:14Speaker 2: the next trick is to get your name out there
- 17:17Speaker 2: and and start getting some trips.
- 17:19Speaker 1: Yeah.
- 17:19Speaker 2: Yeah, I'll hopefully get some get some trips for the
- 17:22Speaker 2: company if I if I make the cut.
- 17:25Speaker 1: Yeah.
- 17:26Speaker 2: So it's it's a long it's a long, slow process,
- 17:28Speaker 2: but it's I think that's what it's all about. That's
- 17:31Speaker 2: you know, at the end of the day, when you
- 17:32Speaker 2: do come out here, you you're you're hunting with someone
- 17:35Speaker 2: who who knows what they're doing.
- 17:37Speaker 1: Oh yeah, yeah, Well I don't want to interfere in it,
- 17:39Speaker 1: but good luck on getting the okay. Thank you. I
- 17:42Speaker 1: feel like you might be gonna Yeah, I feel like
- 17:43Speaker 1: you're maybe going to get the okay. I haven't. I
- 17:46Speaker 1: feel like somehow if you weren't, we wouldn't be talking
- 17:49Speaker 1: to you. I just feel like it'd be awkward, but
- 17:52Speaker 1: fresh as on. I feel like you might get the
- 17:53Speaker 1: okay to do some studying. Last note, when we ended
- 18:00Speaker 1: the Last the Last Flop edition, we're heading out back
- 18:05Speaker 1: on the trail of some buffalo and that night we
- 18:09Speaker 1: got one. I'm i gonna give you any more detail
- 18:12Speaker 1: in that, but we got one. We've been eating them, yep.
- 18:15Speaker 1: And he's a beauty of three times yesterday and two
- 18:19Speaker 1: times today.
- 18:20Speaker 2: Yeah. Yeah, yeah, that's what we're doing, all right.
- 18:24Speaker 1: Thanks man, Cool