Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / American Primeval with Costume Designer, Virginia B. Johnson
Transcript
- 0:06Hello, and welcome to the Art of Costume podcast.
- 0:08I'm your host, Spencer Williams, and thank you for joining me for
- 0:12yet again another bonus episode. Hey costume nerds, Emmy season
- 0:18continues over here at the podcast and I have another
- 0:21exciting interview for you all as today I talked to costume
- 0:26designer Virginia B Johnson, a new friend of mine who designed
- 0:30the costumes for American Primeval.
- 0:32You will know Virginia from quite a bit.
- 0:35Some of her notable work includes The Man from Toronto,
- 0:38The New Mutants, Surrogates, Hillbilly Elegy and Salem's Lot,
- 0:44which is a film that came out recently which I.
- 0:46Absolutely. Loved and did not know that
- 0:48Virginia worked on the show when they interviewed her, so missed
- 0:51opportunity on my part. And of course, Virginia B
- 0:55Johnson was nominated for an Emmy in Outstanding period
- 0:58costumes. This.
- 0:59Season for her work. On American Primeval.
- 1:03I love the show. It was devastating.
- 1:06I was obsessed with. The realism of it?
- 1:08How just to the point and how it didn't really sugarcoat any
- 1:13aspect of this time period in Utah.
- 1:17I learned a lot. Some things maybe I didn't want
- 1:20to know and some things I'm very happy that were brought onto
- 1:26screen. So and of course, I was blown
- 1:29away by the costumes. I really, truly am in love with
- 1:33the aging and dying in a breakdown.
- 1:35We solve all these costumes with that.
- 1:37Before I go on and on about the costumes and how much I adored
- 1:40them, why don't we take a break? And when we come back, we'll be
- 1:44joined by costume designer Virginia B Johnson.
- 1:47And don't forget, coming out actually tomorrow, another
- 1:51regular. Episode of the art.
- 1:53Of Costume podcast. Where Elizabeth?
- 1:54Will be with me and we'll be talking about the costumes of of
- 1:59Elizabeth from 1998 as we'll be wrapping up our historical Hot
- 2:05Girls summer series before we get into our adventure films and
- 2:10of. Course the moment we've.
- 2:12All been waiting for our spooky season, Now let's.
- 2:15Get to the break. I am so thrilled to be here with
- 2:23my new friend, costume designer Virginia B Johnson.
- 2:27Hey Virginia, it's so nice to finally meet you.
- 2:30I can't even tell you how excited I am, Spencer.
- 2:34Like, see you like, like moving around in the flesh on my
- 2:38computer screen as a as like a big fan of the pod and yeah, and
- 2:43listener and viewer. It's just really exciting to be
- 2:46here. Oh, that is, that is so, so
- 2:48sweet. Well, I just really started to
- 2:50get to know you recently with your work on American Primeval,
- 2:53and I'm such a fan. It is such a great show.
- 2:56And, you know, I'm a big fan of costume breakdown and textiles
- 3:01and very much ruggedness and authenticity, which you very
- 3:05much brought to the show. So I'm so excited to get into
- 3:08it. But before we do, I don't want
- 3:10to let you go without talking about your recent Emmy
- 3:12nomination. Huge congratulations to you and
- 3:15the crew. Outstanding period costumes.
- 3:19Tell me about that moment. I mean, what was it like?
- 3:21Where were you all jumping up and down?
- 3:23I haven't. Do you believe it?
- 3:24What's going on? I was literally sitting in a
- 3:29Pilates class when I found out and freaking out that I hadn't
- 3:33managed to close my exercise ring even though I'd been there
- 3:36for a solid 45 minutes and was sweating.
- 3:40And then finally, as we were like resetting our equipment, I
- 3:44glanced at my watch and saw Congrats.
- 3:48And I just hit the question mark and say the person like who
- 3:52wrote back Emmy, Emmy, Emmy. And then I like, screamed and
- 3:57ran away from my equipment to grab my phone.
- 4:01And then like, had to go outside the studio to like, look at all
- 4:05my text messages. But my phone wouldn't like
- 4:09accept phone calls like so I only could communicate with
- 4:13people via text. But I honestly was not.
- 4:17I just didn't. I just wasn't expecting it.
- 4:19So it was like really, really thrilling.
- 4:23And it's just a testament to the work of the entire costume
- 4:28department. Just so many hands.
- 4:30Everything went and was touched by so many different people.
- 4:34And I'm just really, I mean, it sounds a little trite, but it's
- 4:40just such an honor to have that work recognized.
- 4:44And I'm just so proud of my entire team that everything they
- 4:49did over the course of those eight months was actually seen,
- 4:53you know, like people saw it and really loved what the work they
- 4:57did. So really excited about it.
- 5:00Yeah, you all should be so proud.
- 5:01I mean, it's truly such a fantastic show.
- 5:04And I just, I can't wait to get into the costumes with you.
- 5:09So let's talk about the series. American Primeval is a raw,
- 5:12unflinching look at the violent collision between native tribes,
- 5:16pioneers, Mormon soldiers, U.S. government, all in 1857, which,
- 5:21you know, it's not exactly a fun time in Utah at the moment.
- 5:25The show is grounded in realism and historical authenticity.
- 5:29So I was going to ask you what initially drew you to this
- 5:33project and tell me about working with director and
- 5:35executive producer Pete Berg. Do I was in Hawaii working on
- 5:43vacation friends and when I received a phone call from Pete
- 5:49telling me a little bit about the project and seeing if I
- 5:52would be interested in in chatting more.
- 5:56And when he told me what the actual scope of the work was and
- 6:03the fact that we would represent so many different native nations
- 6:10on screen and how it was important to him and Markel
- 6:15Smith to really make that feel very real.
- 6:19And I was immediately struck with how few opportunities we
- 6:26got to put various significant cultural representations of
- 6:33dress on the screen for a large scale audience.
- 6:37I come from the world of docudramas.
- 6:40Some of my first work was actually for PBS and we would
- 6:45dive deep into the research of it.
- 6:47But you know, that is like they were just like a little
- 6:50snapshots of what people wore. Never like seeing how people
- 6:54truly exist from dawn to dusk in what they were wearing and how
- 6:59and how they decorated themselves.
- 7:01So that was really exciting to me and this idea that, you know,
- 7:06when you were settling the lands that are already, you know,
- 7:12settled what what do you bring with you and what are you
- 7:17prepared for and what aren't you prepared for?
- 7:20And that was also, it's like, you know, something that
- 7:23fascinates me about action movies too, Like how do you get
- 7:28from point A to point B in what you're wearing and what is what
- 7:32happens to what you wear through through that actual journey?
- 7:37I think that I have. I've done 4 projects with Pete
- 7:43in the past, the first being Patriots Day, which once again
- 7:47it was like a research heavy. We wanted to really honor the
- 7:53people who experienced that really horrific moment in
- 7:59Boston's history and the marathon.
- 8:02And, you know, I've really wanted to be respectful and true
- 8:10to, you know, the people that I consider my neighbors.
- 8:13I live in Greater Boston, and I was here for that event.
- 8:18And it really did kind of like change the city in ways that,
- 8:22you know, no one was really talking about.
- 8:26So I think I had proven that I am super committed to, like,
- 8:31digging in deep but also not making another documentary.
- 8:36I want to really think about those choices and what
- 8:41everyone's wearing as a way to further enhance the character
- 8:46and further visually tell the story of where we are and what's
- 8:50happening. So I think those experiences
- 8:54really helped me continued doing that kind of work for American
- 8:59Primeval. Sure.
- 9:01So with that, you know, I'm really fascinated to hear about
- 9:04your research process for this project.
- 9:07So I understand you worked with our mutual friend Julie O'Keefe,
- 9:10who served as Indigenous cultural consultant, project
- 9:13advisor, who have gone to interview and work with her a
- 9:15few times. I'm curious to hear like what
- 9:18kinds of what kinds of research resources did you rely on?
- 9:22What were some of the most meaningful things you learned
- 9:24during that research phase? So I always start by digging
- 9:30deep into the art and the literature of that era of
- 9:36anything like like currently, you know, I'm looking into 2010
- 9:40and I want to know like what were the icons and what was
- 9:44everyday life like? And so that's where I started
- 9:46with Primeval. I know it's like centered on
- 9:50settling the Utah Territory, but and who and in the end owns
- 9:55Utah. And, but I was also looking at
- 10:01who are the bodies of people that are settling West and where
- 10:07are they from? Where do they shop and all of
- 10:12that kind of stuff. And, you know, we had a great
- 10:16consultant, Dudley Gardner, who is out of Wyoming and knows so
- 10:20much about Fort Bridger and just so much about the Mormon
- 10:25militia, all of that kind of stuff.
- 10:27And he was like able to send like photos from museums of like
- 10:30an actual beehive button. And just like what an amazing
- 10:35resource like to men be like, wow, somebody's going to think
- 10:39this is really cool. So in my mind, I'm like, I need
- 10:43to make some beehive buttons. But also, just like there is
- 10:48this amazing costume historian who passed away in 2015 and she
- 10:57was out of Wisconsin. Yeah.
- 10:59Wisconsin state's Historical Society.
- 11:02Joan El Severa. It's pardon the Severa family if
- 11:07I'm saying your last name wrong, but she has to one really
- 11:11popular book that's dressed for the photographer everyday
- 11:16Americans from 1840 to 1890. Her lesser known title, which
- 11:23was one I leaned on really hard, was my likeness taken and it's
- 11:29Daguerreian portraits from 1840 to I think 1860, something like
- 11:36that. And what she does is it's not
- 11:41just like this daguerreotype that's you know, in the in the
- 11:45book. She then does like a deep and
- 11:48that analysis into everything on the body, everything they're
- 11:53wearing, their hairstyle, the accessories.
- 11:56And through reading the text, you learn so much about, you
- 12:01know, she's looking at the the details of a pleat or Princess
- 12:06theme to tell you that this is actually a garment that's
- 12:10probably been recycled from 1830 to fit into an 1840s fashion.
- 12:18And the reason that is she's making this this analysis is
- 12:21because of a certain way the person's wearing their hair or
- 12:25the way they have suddenly added an accessory.
- 12:28So going through that really gave me a sense of what everyday
- 12:32people who might have been settling West, you know, how
- 12:36they dressed and what were the prints and all those interesting
- 12:40things that you don't get if you're just looking at a costume
- 12:43history book. And what's really important to
- 12:48me and understanding like, 'cause we still, there were
- 12:52still manufactured clothing. We like to think that everything
- 12:55is like handmade. It's still like the 19th
- 12:58century, but we were still manufactured like manufactured
- 13:02ready to wear did exist. And there's also this steamship
- 13:06that sank the Arabia and it was carrying a bunch of dry goods
- 13:15West. And you can go to this like
- 13:19museum and see the footwear, the hairpins and all like in the
- 13:26accessories and garments that like were like somehow preserved
- 13:31in the mud. And then they were able to
- 13:33excavate and they were like, yeah, it's totally nuts.
- 13:36So I. Gotta get there.
- 13:38Yeah, I. Know I was like can I like?
- 13:41Bucking in on the side. But there's like great
- 13:47photographs from that, those exhibits where I was like, this
- 13:51is how a pair of pants would have been if you were like to
- 13:54buy them from a trading post, you know.
- 13:57So that kind of information like goes, I think a step further
- 14:01than just seeing what you know is available in our mainstream
- 14:05museums, which are often garments that were worn by
- 14:08people who made maybe didn't wear their clothes all the time.
- 14:11And what we needed to see are the clothes that have been
- 14:14handed down and worn all the time and have undergone like a
- 14:20long, long journey for like the native things, though, you know,
- 14:24I did, I reached out to Julie because of Killers of the Flower
- 14:29Moon and our connection to Jacqueline West and wanting more
- 14:36resources. And like, our first
- 14:38conversations were about how do we make contact with
- 14:44craftspeople and storytellers from these nations, from
- 14:51Shoshone Paiute and Ute so that we aren't just creating these
- 14:59clothes and accessories in a vacuum.
- 15:02Just based on maybe what I'm finding at the National Museum
- 15:07of the American Indian. Like I really wanted the
- 15:12feedback and the actual craftsmanship of, of people
- 15:18whose like stories are often told through somebody else's
- 15:22lens. So like to give that opportunity
- 15:26for them to have hand in what is going to be projected was key to
- 15:33me. And Julie was great at like
- 15:35putting me in contact and helping facilitate
- 15:39conversations. And like, literally, I'd be
- 15:41like, here is the dress we've made and I'm painting in where I
- 15:46think the the dye would be would have been painted.
- 15:49And then like she like we texted in a group chat and he would be
- 15:53like, no, it should be a little bit smaller, a little bit, you
- 15:56know, and it was great to get like that immediate feedback.
- 15:59I don't, I don't want that feedback after we put it up.
- 16:02You know, I wanted the feedback while we were making it, but,
- 16:07you know, like, this community in Oklahoma, like made all of
- 16:13the moccasins and yeah, like an elder out of the Eastern
- 16:22Shoshone, like made the breastplate that red Feather
- 16:25wore. And it's like all of those
- 16:27elements that then also help the actor know that this is not a
- 16:33costume. This is literally made by the
- 16:37hands of the ancestors of the people we're representing.
- 16:41Sure. So much storytelling is like
- 16:43sitting on, you know, the backs of these garments as well too.
- 16:46So you're carrying a lot of that through the storytelling and
- 16:49some of these very heavy, intense scenes.
- 16:52So actually wanted to talk about some of these characters as
- 16:56well, particularly Red Feather. And winter bird their.
- 16:59Costumes obviously stood out to me for their textiles and
- 17:03material choices, so how essential were textiles to your
- 17:06approach and designing for the Shoshone?
- 17:09So there is like a, like a story about how we really wanted to
- 17:16use like, authentic real Leathers because after sampling
- 17:21like faux or vegan Leathers, it just didn't have the same kind
- 17:25of drape. It didn't age the same.
- 17:28And, you know, in conversations with Curtis Barney, who is a
- 17:33elder in the Eastern Shoshone Nation, you know, was like
- 17:38really adamant that it would have been made from brain tanned
- 17:42hide. And that, you know, if we could
- 17:45do that, even if it's artificial brain tan, we then we would have
- 17:49like at least chosen the right material for the clothing.
- 17:54And in my conversations with our production designer, Renee was
- 18:00like, how do we make it visually clear the various nations, like
- 18:07the natives, people that live around Fort Bridger, like who
- 18:12are like trading with Fort Bridger, who work there.
- 18:16Suddenly you see them with like kind of like what we call the
- 18:20Eurocentric textile, wool, cottons, linens.
- 18:25And then you see the Ute who are scavenging from all of these
- 18:30raids and you see that infiltration of they're still
- 18:34wearing a lot of deer hide and Buffalo.
- 18:38But you see some elements from the the raids.
- 18:43You know, maybe somebody is wearing like Eurocentric style
- 18:47sack coat. And then we get to winter bird
- 18:51and the Shoshone, which is like like purist.
- 18:55We don't see that the the European cut coats, we don't see
- 19:05European boots. What we are seeing is like true
- 19:09all hides, furs, feathers, all of these things found through
- 19:19living in in the land, living in their communities.
- 19:23For like Winter Bird, we had these artificial replicas of elk
- 19:31teeth made because the elk teeth on your garment signified that
- 19:37you had a great hunter in your family.
- 19:40So the more elk teeth, the more stature you had.
- 19:44So there was a dress in the Wyoming Historical Society's
- 19:51collection that had like all these beautiful elk teeth
- 19:54stitched on the front of the hide.
- 19:56And, you know, I showed that to Irene.
- 19:59And she was really, she loved it, loved this idea that she
- 20:02would have more elk teeth than anyone else.
- 20:05And that was a way of showing her position in the in the
- 20:08community. And then in one of the scenes
- 20:13she also has this rabbit. Fur, cloak and those are all
- 20:19individual Rapids that you know, are all stitched together in the
- 20:25very traditional manner they would have been done.
- 20:28And again, another way of showing stature where is like
- 20:33red feather it once again in hide, but also like a little
- 20:39more intensely decorated in a little more aged to show that
- 20:45they are not in like the stable community.
- 20:47They're always on the move. But again, all brain tanned gear
- 20:52hide. Wow, that's I mean, I'm sure you
- 20:56learned so much on this. I'm speaking to you.
- 20:58You. Know, like, there's like, states
- 21:00in my brain where I was like, did I lose childhood memories?
- 21:03Yeah. When, when the show ended, I
- 21:07mean, were you still feeling like you're in that world a
- 21:09little bit too and still seeing research come about?
- 21:12Oh God, it's really hard to like, let go of all that
- 21:18information. Plus like we filmed in like
- 21:21these wild rough locations in New Mexico that like the first
- 21:26time I took out my blunt stone boots, like in winter, I was
- 21:31like, that is like New Mexico mud.
- 21:33Like it's just it's never coming off.
- 21:36Same with like my winter coat. I was just like, I am just my
- 21:41clothes look like I tried to settle in the Wild West, you
- 21:44know, like it's just nuts. Well, that brings me to where
- 21:48where I want to go next, switching to our traveling group
- 21:51with of Isaac, Sarah, Devin and two moons.
- 21:55These characters, unlike most of the characters in this series,
- 21:59endure extreme environments and physical challenges throughout
- 22:02the series. There's dirt, there's snow,
- 22:05there's blood, lots of blood, lots of dirt.
- 22:10So how did the landscape and climate shape your design
- 22:13process? I imagine the costume breakdown
- 22:15process for American Primeval was quite significant, so I
- 22:19would love to hear all about it. Yeah, I mean, two of the
- 22:24characters that were probably the most challenging to actually
- 22:27design were Isaac and two Moons. Because two moons having lived
- 22:32in Fort Bridger, like figuring out what she did there, how she
- 22:36existed. How do we like note that she is
- 22:40from a native community, but also is like working in on the
- 22:48Fort And then like to do that. Like we realized that in those
- 22:55lighter weight garments, the cotton and linen, like why when
- 22:59they head into winter, like it's like, oh, like you wouldn't have
- 23:03survived. Like, you know, you're like, we
- 23:06have made some some decisions here that aren't necessarily
- 23:11great for running. So it was like, you know, Mark
- 23:17and Pete like already had like all these beats built in where
- 23:21we were going to come across these stampeded settlers and
- 23:27they were going to forage and find warmer garments.
- 23:31And so those then raised other opportunities to add to the
- 23:35clothing because you're not necessarily losing clothing you
- 23:39needed more as we headed up the mountain and.
- 23:43They weren't traveling with suitcases either, so.
- 23:45I know. Like, they don't even, like,
- 23:47sometimes they had horses, sometimes they didn't.
- 23:51Yeah. Like they're really being forced
- 23:54to like just use whatever they come across to, to stay warm.
- 23:58And I'm still mobile. Like they couldn't slow down.
- 24:02That was like kind of the that part, that beating drum of the
- 24:06series, Like you have to keep moving because there's always
- 24:09someone hunting them. But what I also love about those
- 24:144 characters is like this idea of what will we do to care for
- 24:22others. And like, I don't know if people
- 24:24noticed, but it was really important to me that as the
- 24:30weather changed and the terrain changed that we like made all of
- 24:36like the hand wraps and scarves and everything, the things to
- 24:43like wrap Devin, we're all part of Sarah's costume.
- 24:48So like it's her petticoat wrapped around his hands.
- 24:53It's part of her skirt that is wrapped around 2 Moon's body.
- 24:58And like, we use those same fabrics and like totally broke
- 25:01them down to show that they've been drug through the terrain,
- 25:07but that this here's a person who is willing to sacrifice
- 25:11everything for her child and to help this other child keep
- 25:16going, you know, and that was the key to like building that
- 25:23character for me. Like, if anyone noticed, great.
- 25:26But to me, and in my conversations with Benny it, it
- 25:31was important that you know, whatever you can do to keep your
- 25:35kid warm is is important. Right.
- 25:38And I mean, and a little notes like that to help, like you
- 25:41said, like these these actors feel like the character really
- 25:45get into the mindset of these people from the 1850s.
- 25:48And I think. Someone who really speaks to
- 25:50that is Betty Gilpin, who plays is Sarah, who really acts as a
- 25:53powerful anchor throughout this story, going through this
- 25:58journey with the audience. So what is your approach to
- 26:01designing Sarah's look and what was it like working with Betty
- 26:05to help shape that character through costume?
- 26:07And I also would love to hear about your thoughts and
- 26:10representing the specific challenges faced by women in
- 26:131857 because she really carries a lot of that on her as well.
- 26:17Yeah, I mean, that element of like this woman surviving
- 26:25domestic violence, not having access to your own money, all of
- 26:29these things that, like, force you away from the comforts of
- 26:34home and how important it is to like raise and provide for your
- 26:39child. Another reason that I was drawn
- 26:42to the story and in those early conversations with Betty, like
- 26:48it's understanding that in the 1850s, though, there's not a
- 26:54hotline you call and you, you know, need to not stand out like
- 27:00as you're moving West and there is like this desire when
- 27:07somebody is like breaking free that.
- 27:10And then I heard this from males all the time.
- 27:12Why isn't she wearing pants? And I go back to some, once
- 27:19again, the research where women were literally being arrested
- 27:24for wearing pants in public. Like you could be fined.
- 27:29So for her to have run away, one that's like, you know, possibly
- 27:35for murder. You know, you're not going to
- 27:38put on pants. You are, you're going to do as
- 27:44much as possible to blend in. So a woman needs to wear the
- 27:48dress, wear the corset, put on the big coat.
- 27:51You know, like you're suddenly weighed down by your position in
- 27:55the world, which is like been dictated by fashion.
- 28:00That's how we know you're a woman in this world and where
- 28:03you fall in the world. And then, you know, arriving to
- 28:09Fort Bridger, you know, she looks as like together and prim
- 28:14and proper, even using strength and like knowing what she wants
- 28:20full heartedly sometimes knowing what where she needs to be next.
- 28:24But she does that in a way that everybody else who understands
- 28:29women in the world, because we already have this idea in the
- 28:331850s of what maybe a widow looks like or what an upper
- 28:40middle class, lower upper class woman looks like.
- 28:44Already she's giving off those clues.
- 28:46So people take her seriously. People are like willing to like
- 28:50be hired or you know what a robber, like all that kind of
- 28:55stuff. You know, we've laid the
- 28:57groundwork for that because that's what it meant to be a
- 29:01woman alone in the world in the 1850s.
- 29:04We didn't, I was like, I'm not this isn't a fairy tale.
- 29:07If we're going to be true and honor what it meant to be, you
- 29:11know, Brigham Young or Jim Bridger, we need to do the same
- 29:14for this fictional woman on her own and why it's so dangerous to
- 29:19be on her own. She also like, you know, when we
- 29:26like start traveling and we're on the run.
- 29:29It was like also like a feat of like, how does a woman do that
- 29:32when you have like 3 petticoats on and a big wool skirt, you
- 29:37know? And we had made a conscious
- 29:39decision as part of the character not to put her in like
- 29:42a dress where the bodice and the skirt are attached.
- 29:46We went with what's called the Basque bodice.
- 29:49So it's more like a jacket. It has like a little peplum.
- 29:53If we did it out of like something that felt smart and
- 29:58that like was dark. So because she's traveling, we
- 30:02don't want there to be a lot of dirt showing up.
- 30:05It has to be resilient. But like doing that jacket
- 30:09versus a dress then would allow to like lose layers.
- 30:13Eventually, she did end up in pants.
- 30:18She was probably very thankful. By that point, though, she did
- 30:22say that it was really warm. Like when we got up into the
- 30:26mountains and you're in the skirts and the layers, it's much
- 30:30warmer than a pair of pants. Let me tell you.
- 30:34She's like, oh, the skirts were warmer.
- 30:37Oh well. Oh geez.
- 30:40Well, before we go, I really want to actually use Fort
- 30:44Bridger as an example because I really think it's a great moment
- 30:47to show just how well, how many costumes and actors there were
- 30:51on set. Sometimes there were huge crowd
- 30:53scenes. Of course, we have the massacre
- 30:54scene as well, some battle scenes or even Brigham Young and
- 30:59the Mormons game together for their sermons.
- 31:01So I really want to use that opportunity to talk about your
- 31:04crew. What?
- 31:06Tell me about the people that you worked with and how you all
- 31:09were able to rely on each other to help create some of these
- 31:12huge crowd scenes. Yeah, I mean, Fort Bridger was a
- 31:17beast when we got there. Like I threw like a little
- 31:21weekend BBQ. There's like, we arrived at Fort
- 31:24Bridger like we had really been marching towards that moment.
- 31:29And like many period shows, but specifically period shows where
- 31:34you have a lot of action, everything is made like yes,
- 31:41some of our background we were able to pull and rent from
- 31:46United American Costumes, which you know, is known for their
- 31:50like stock of 1800s, you know, in that world of the Western.
- 31:55But we are pre Western, so it needed to feel a little more
- 31:59dated. So that was like a wonderful
- 32:02resource. And Diana Foster, like, was so
- 32:05kind and generous with us to help us get those big crowds of
- 32:11people and, you know, really understood the aesthetic and
- 32:15like that we didn't want things that felt precious.
- 32:17They had to feel dirty and rugged.
- 32:19And so that was a fantastic resource for all of us.
- 32:24And we actually started our prep at United America and we used a
- 32:28workroom there and had once again an amazing, amazing
- 32:33leather like sample maker and then ended up doing most of our
- 32:40principles, Sarah Huff and Sarah or Sarah.
- 32:46And they once again like leggings and the breech clothes
- 32:52and the war shirts, like did those initial pieces for us and
- 32:59then came and helped establish all of that and built like
- 33:02winter birds dress, built the big Buffalo coach that Isaac
- 33:07wears and like with that took 2 Buffalo hides.
- 33:11Like, so like, you know, we had that prep period in early 20 in,
- 33:16I guess the holidays of 2022. And then, you know, on the
- 33:22ground, we are great, you know, fantastically organized.
- 33:27Savvy costume supervisor Tanya Barrett was like on the ground
- 33:33in New Mexico getting everything set up and trying to find this
- 33:38massive team of people to make it all happen.
- 33:42Because we knew that action would be so hefty that we were
- 33:46going to have to build the militia, build all of our like,
- 33:53Native nations, because also those nations hadn't been
- 33:59represented in the past. So to do them true, like
- 34:02authentic, honorable justice was to actually make them from
- 34:07scratch. All of like the Cutter gang,
- 34:10that's all built, you know, they're just like this
- 34:13hodgepodge of wool and leather and linen.
- 34:18And then, yeah, so that gigantic team, there were days where I
- 34:23was like, there's like 75 people that I am trying to like, touch
- 34:29base with. And there were times where I was
- 34:31like, oh, who are you? You know, like you're like, Oh
- 34:35my God, did you just fit like 30 background?
- 34:38And so it was just a feat of really trying to find really
- 34:46good key people to kind of manage the micro departments so
- 34:52that we could all stay on the same page.
- 34:55And we definitely had to divide and conquer the work.
- 34:58But we were on this like former college campus in Santa Fe.
- 35:04And so we had like some of us were in the theater, like
- 35:08literally like in the theater building.
- 35:11And so we had the costume shop and like the leather was
- 35:14backstage of the actual theater and they would like set up.
- 35:18They just have like boxes of different hides and shelves of
- 35:21different animal hides. Like on the stage.
- 35:24It was like so surreal. And they were literally like in
- 35:28the scene shop of what that theater had been.
- 35:30And then we had this really long hallway and in the lobby was
- 35:34where we had like what we call everybody joke that I had like
- 35:38built this fabric store in the lobby because we just had all
- 35:41these giant rolls of fabric. Because unlike other shows where
- 35:45maybe you're building a coat, like we'd be like, oh, we got to
- 35:48build him a coat and a stuntman a coat.
- 35:50Oh, and then they're going to like get all blood.
- 35:53So we need to build 6 coats. So we would buy like these like
- 35:5630 to 40, you know, yard pulse fabric and they were just all in
- 36:02there and you'd walk in and it was like super weird.
- 36:05And then and then all the racks of the clothes, like in the
- 36:10actual like red carpeted lobby, there was just like racks and
- 36:15racks of clothes. But then you would cross the
- 36:17campus to age die and they had a whole like dorm like mommy.
- 36:24And that was where all of that was set up.
- 36:27And yeah, you would like walk across campus.
- 36:30So people really got their steps in and yeah, we, we did all of
- 36:37our fittings and like consultations and the meetings
- 36:40and everything in what had been like a dance studio, like in the
- 36:44whole thing was this huge just. And the fact that it's.
- 36:48Like a factory. I know.
- 36:50And people were able to like you had to get up.
- 36:55You had to get up and leave your space to like make sure that
- 36:58clothes got from one part of the campus to the next so that it
- 37:03went through all of the processes.
- 37:05And then we have this great key, Joanna, who like made sure then
- 37:10that everything was bagged and tagged and sent to the right
- 37:12truck because we had two trucks. So there's just like a logistics
- 37:16element to it that was would not have been possible with all
- 37:20those people being very transparent about the work and
- 37:25really asking for what they needed and when they would need
- 37:28it. Because sometimes we just are
- 37:29like, oh, that's the due date I can get.
- 37:31You know, we, we really had to have sometimes really
- 37:34challenging conversations about what is possible.
- 37:38Can we do this? Do we have what we need to do
- 37:41this? Well, you all worked in such
- 37:43great Symphony, obviously it looked incredible on screen with
- 37:46all you know, your big olfactory and all.
- 37:48It all came together and you also just be so proud.
- 37:52So Virginia, as we wrap up, I just want to ask you, what has
- 37:55this series meant to you personally and what do you hope
- 37:58audiences take away from? Watching American Primeval.
- 38:01Well, I think that one of the things that is really important
- 38:07to me as someone who doesn't like design in anyone genre, I
- 38:11really just hope that these stories, these people, real and
- 38:16fictional, encourage folks to just think a little bit about
- 38:22whose stories are missing. Whose stories do we not hear
- 38:27enough of and why is that? And can we enthusiastically want
- 38:34to hear more? And I definitely see that in the
- 38:38native communities as they rallied around red feather and
- 38:44winter bird stories and this they want to know more about the
- 38:50nations that, you know, you know, attempted to survive
- 38:56American expansionism. And yeah, so I just, I hope it
- 39:00makes people want eagerly want to hear more of those missing
- 39:06stories in the like, what we see, what's available and that
- 39:11we've put so much effort and money into creating in this
- 39:16instance that, you know, makes it all the more, I mean,
- 39:22valuable to like the larger storytelling ethos, I guess the
- 39:27universe. You know, we just added a new
- 39:31chapter to how we understand the people that made this country.
- 39:38Sure. Well, costume designer Virginia
- 39:40B Johnson, thank you so much for talking to me.
- 39:42I'm so glad I got to meet you. This has been so fun and so
- 39:46enlightening. I feel like I've learned so much
- 39:48from you and I look forward to the next time we get to do this.
- 39:52Spencer It was a joy. I love getting to nerd out about
- 39:57all the history. Behind everything we could go
- 39:59all day I. Know, and I just I so appreciate
- 40:04this podcast and you know all that you do to like shine the
- 40:07light on the many, many people it takes to bring a story to
- 40:12life on screen. So thank.
- 40:13You. That's so kind.
- 40:14Congratulations once again. OK, thanks.
- 40:17Take care.