Latest / Skin Anarchy / Discovering BIODERMA’s Use of Ecobiology in Formulating Iconic Products Like the Sensibio H2O Micellar Water with NAOS CEO of North America, Jeremy Bayen
Transcript
- 0:08SPEAKER_00: We're all huge fans of the brand Bioderma here at Skincare Anarchy, and you know, rightfully so, because I think they're truly a leader in so many ways when it comes to cleansing and just all the wonderful dermatology grade products that they offer, but they're actually a brand under a bigger umbrella known as the Nalos Group.
- 0:26SPEAKER_00: And so with me today is the CEO North America of Namus Group, Jeremy Bayon.
- 0:31SPEAKER_00: Welcome to the show, Jeremy.
- 0:32SPEAKER_00: I'm so excited to host you.
- 0:34SPEAKER_01: Well, thank you very much.
- 0:35SPEAKER_01: It's a pleasure being here and it's an honor to be with you today.
- 0:37SPEAKER_00: Oh, thank you.
- 0:38SPEAKER_00: The honor is truly mine.
- 0:39SPEAKER_00: And I cannot wait to learn about, you know, Nallos and everything that you guys are doing, Jeremy.
- 0:44SPEAKER_00: But I would love to start with you and your background because it's truly impressive.
- 0:47SPEAKER_00: I mean, I feel like you've taken, you know, Nell's to a new level since you've been with them.
- 0:51SPEAKER_00: So I would love to learn what got you into the realm of beauty and you know innovation, especially, you know, in this industry.
- 0:57SPEAKER_00: And what led you to Naos?
- 0:59SPEAKER_00: If you could give us a kind of walk down memory lane.
- 1:01SPEAKER_01: Sure thing.
- 1:02SPEAKER_01: Well, I'm a French citizen, so I was born and raised in France when I was a bit older.
- 1:05SPEAKER_01: My parents moved abroad, so I had a chance of experiencing different countries throughout my youth.
- 1:10SPEAKER_01: And then more recently, I I moved to Canada in Montreal when uh to do some studying.
- 1:15SPEAKER_01: And by the end of that experience, I was I was lucky enough to start working for L'Oreal.
- 1:19SPEAKER_01: So I started my journey into the skincare at L'Oreal, working for Bioderma, and then uh working for biotherm, sorry, in Lancome.
- 1:26SPEAKER_01: And then I moved to the FNB industry, food and beverage, working for Danon, again in Canada.
- 1:31SPEAKER_01: And then after a while, I moved to Middle East, where I joined NAOS as a marketing executive, where I was in charge of Bioderma for the Middle Eastern region.
- 1:38SPEAKER_01: Loved it every bit.
- 1:40SPEAKER_01: And yeah, my career then moved on to become an area manager where I was settling distribution activities over 16 and then 19 countries in the Middle Eastern region.
- 1:49SPEAKER_01: And then I became GM of NAOS Group for Benelux, Belgium, Netherlands, and Luxembourg.
- 1:55SPEAKER_01: I did that for six years.
- 1:56SPEAKER_01: And three years ago, I was promoted the CEO for North America for the Naos Group.
- 2:00SPEAKER_01: So both all brands by Dama, Dama, C is the Dama and Etapio.
- 2:04SPEAKER_01: So that in a nutshell, that's my experience within the skincare industry.
- 2:07SPEAKER_01: Much hold my career, except for maybe a year or two where I was at Danon and then Ralph Lauren very quickly.
- 2:12SPEAKER_00: Oh, that's very cool.
- 2:13SPEAKER_00: No, I think that that's interesting.
- 2:14SPEAKER_00: We have such such a wide range of experience.
- 2:17SPEAKER_00: I mean, I think it it's definitely interesting when I interview executives like yourself because I I feel like, you know, big beauty is what I call it, right?
- 2:25SPEAKER_00: The big, big corporations in this industry that really kind of pave the way for a lot of the smaller brands, I think, to understand, like, you know, how beauty works.
- 2:33SPEAKER_00: And I think that's what the most fascinating part about for me, you know, mostly Bioderma, because I'm the most familiar with that brand under the Now's umbrella.
- 2:42SPEAKER_00: But it's very fascinating to me because Bioderma is the only brand that my slower water that I can use on my skin.
- 2:49SPEAKER_00: It's really it's fascinating, like you know, the technology in the in the product.
- 2:53SPEAKER_00: So I can't wait to dive into that, but I would love to talk to you about this whole idea of ecobiology, because I know that this is very central to what you guys do and and you know, central to your approach from the scientific perspective.
- 3:05SPEAKER_00: So, can you tell tell us a little bit about that?
- 3:07SPEAKER_00: What is ecobiology?
- 3:09SPEAKER_01: Well, ecobiology is coming from two things, you know, eco and biology.
- 3:12SPEAKER_01: Biology, I mean the study of living species, uh, the study of the living in general, and an eco in the sense of ecosystem.
- 3:18SPEAKER_01: So basically, ecobiology is the study of the relations that exist between a living organism and its ecosystem, and be between skin cell and its environment, it can be between the skin and its environment.
- 3:30SPEAKER_01: So ecobiology can be a lot of things.
- 3:32SPEAKER_01: Funny enough, eco-biology doesn't just apply to skincare.
- 3:35SPEAKER_01: I mean, if you think about it, ways is an ecobiological concept.
- 3:38SPEAKER_01: What you're driving every morning, what you're using for some of us are using every morning to drive to the office, it's basically stemming from the study of hands naturally function.
- 3:48SPEAKER_01: Hands, you know, use different mechanisms and hormones to say when a path is the right one to get to an objective.
- 3:54SPEAKER_01: And they reverse engineer that concept into the Waze application that everybody uses every morning to go to work.
- 4:01SPEAKER_01: So ecobiology, again, is the study of every relations that exist between a living organism and its ecosystem.
- 4:08SPEAKER_01: So Waze is between an ant and its ecosystem.
- 4:11SPEAKER_01: And when it comes to now as brands, it's between the skin, our skin cells, and their ecosystem.
- 4:16SPEAKER_00: Interesting.
- 4:16SPEAKER_00: That's so fascinating.
- 4:17SPEAKER_00: And I love that because that's something that we I think we hear about it a little bit, you know, here and there, but the whole concept of ecobiology, it's never really applied from what I've seen.
- 4:28SPEAKER_00: You know, it's the this concept is not fully applied to like a whole brand per se.
- 4:32SPEAKER_00: You know, so I really want to ask, you know, what are what are some of these principles, you know, that really differentiate you guys from other companies, you know, when you look at product innovation, for example.
- 4:42SPEAKER_01: Well, ecobiology when it comes to skincare is is is about a few things.
- 4:46SPEAKER_01: First, and we're not trying to create something that's gonna correct an imbalance.
- 4:51SPEAKER_01: We're we're trying more to help the skin to correct its own imbalance.
- 4:55SPEAKER_01: And by again, having that ecobiology approach, everything we're learning, everything we're trying to develop is born from the study of the skin.
- 5:03SPEAKER_01: We're trying to use the skin natural mechanism to correct imbalances it may suffer from.
- 5:08SPEAKER_01: So that's that's the key part.
- 5:10SPEAKER_01: The other part about ecobiology is the fact that we're trying to force yourself to use biomimetic ingredients.
- 5:16SPEAKER_01: I mean, again, not 100% of our ingredients are biomimetic, but every time we can, we're trying to use those biomimetic ingredients.
- 5:23SPEAKER_01: It can mean that the ingredient is either very, very close from natural ingredients already inside your skin or close enough.
- 5:31SPEAKER_01: That's what we call biomimetic ingredients.
- 5:34SPEAKER_01: Those two things pretty much guarantee that not only the skin will react well to the skin care that it will be you we will be using on, but it also guarantees that it will be efficient.
- 5:44SPEAKER_01: Again, by using things that your skin naturally recognizes, the chances of that particular active ingredients being efficient is quite high.
- 5:53SPEAKER_00: Yeah, that makes sense.
- 5:55SPEAKER_00: That's actually very fascinating because I always, you know, I'm I'm in medicine myself, and I think one of the things that is kind of, you know, without being said, a lot of scientists understand is that the human body is the most sophisticated, you know, machine or whatever you want to call it that we have.
- 6:10SPEAKER_00: It's the most sophisticated model that we have.
- 6:12SPEAKER_00: So when we are modeling things based on the normal biology, I mean it makes sense, right?
- 6:17SPEAKER_00: Like scientifically, like that that would be the most optimal way to approach a lot of the cosmos, you know, cosmetic products that we have out these days, is to really mimic that type of machinery that you find in the human body.
- 6:28SPEAKER_00: So that's very, very fascinating.
- 6:30SPEAKER_01: It it totally makes sense.
- 6:31SPEAKER_01: And it is also very authentic in the way we approach skincare because again, we're not trying here to cheat or to correct something with you know a magical ingredient.
- 6:40SPEAKER_01: We're really trying to understand how the skin would naturally function and use that in the skin's very own benefit.
- 6:46SPEAKER_01: So I think it's quite an authentic and genuine approach.
- 6:49SPEAKER_01: I think it also speaks volume in terms of how credible and how you know solid the science is behind our our product.
- 6:56SPEAKER_01: Because again, we're not inventing anything, we're learning from what's ours, which is our biology.
- 7:02SPEAKER_00: Right, right.
- 7:03SPEAKER_00: I love that you said that because it is.
- 7:05SPEAKER_00: I mean, science is observation.
- 7:07SPEAKER_00: I think some of the most notable scientists in the world, Jeremy, I kid you not, you know, when you study the philosophy of science, people will say that, you know, science is not discovering something new, it's observing what already exists and understanding it.
- 7:19SPEAKER_00: And so that's brilliant.
- 7:20SPEAKER_00: I love what you said.
- 7:21SPEAKER_00: And I I think it really shows, you know, in the products, you know, that you guys have.
- 7:25SPEAKER_00: This whole concept really shows because they work so wonderfully, you know, and I think there's just a real simplicity and like a sophisticated simplicity to real science.
- 7:35SPEAKER_00: And and that that's such a fascinating thing.
- 7:37SPEAKER_00: But I want to ask you, you know, what are the most notable inventions and patents that you guys have to date?
- 7:43SPEAKER_01: Well, before we dive into the patent, I just wanted to, you know, close the subject on ecobiology, just explaining that the three brands we have within the NAWS group, which are LCT and Etapure, all brands have that same ecobiology principle when we're talking about RD.
- 7:58SPEAKER_01: Bioderma will be ecobiology at the service of the methodology.
- 8:01SPEAKER_01: Institute Estherm will be ecobiology at the service of aesthetic.
- 8:04SPEAKER_01: And when it comes to eta pure, we're eco-biology is at the service of personalized skincare.
- 8:10SPEAKER_01: So really, you know, tailor-made, ingredients-only approach to skincare.
- 8:14SPEAKER_01: So that's just to wrap up about how we use ecobiology within our three brands.
- 8:18SPEAKER_00: I love that.
- 8:19SPEAKER_00: That's really cool.
- 8:20SPEAKER_00: And I'm glad that you're doing it across the board.
- 8:22SPEAKER_00: You know, that's really important, I think.
- 8:24SPEAKER_00: You know, many times larger companies kind of deviate from the central like, you know, topic that they have or central theme that they have, but it's really fascinating to see that you have applied this across the board.
- 8:34SPEAKER_00: It's very cool.
- 8:35SPEAKER_00: So I do want to know though, what are some of the notable inventions and patents?
- 8:39SPEAKER_01: We had, I mean, the group was was founded in 1977 by a man named Jean-Noël Torrell.
- 8:44SPEAKER_01: He's a bio, he has a biologist as a background.
- 8:46SPEAKER_01: He's been he's been fascinating with the uh with the idea of again using the skin as a source of inspiration to develop products.
- 8:53SPEAKER_01: And he launched a brand with a pro uh Bioderma was pretty much one of the first brands he he worked on, with a brand product named Nodé.
- 9:00SPEAKER_01: Node was the first ever non-detergent shampoo.
- 9:03SPEAKER_01: If you think about it, I mean, you want to preserve the skin ecosystem as much as you want, as you can, and creating a product that would cleanse the hair without damaging the scalp was the roots of what would make Bioderma a great brand in the future.
- 9:17SPEAKER_01: And that was our very first innovation.
- 9:19SPEAKER_01: The famous product, the most famous innovation that everybody knows about is obviously the H2O, the Sansibio H2O from Laboratory Bioderma.
- 9:27SPEAKER_01: And if you think about it, this product is also pretty much like Nodin, invented in the spirit of preserving the skin natural ecosystem.
- 9:35SPEAKER_01: So when we first thought about how we would approach cleansing, we thought about the dermatologist.
- 9:41SPEAKER_01: How does he want to cleanse his patient?
- 9:43SPEAKER_01: What are the things he wants to avoid?
- 9:45SPEAKER_01: Obviously, he wants to make the skin very clean, but he wants to avoid irritation, he wants to avoid inflammation because he's going to be working on that skin after that.
- 9:53SPEAKER_01: So we wanted to develop the product that would require very little mechanical action on the skin, so avoiding rubbing as much as we can, while ensuring a very in-depth plan cleansing for the skin of the patients to be as clean as possible before the procedure.
- 10:10SPEAKER_01: And that's how this innovation was born.
- 10:12SPEAKER_01: So Jean-Noël Torrel discovered that basically he created what we call a missile, but missiles are more complex than just than just what I've, I mean what people may think.
- 10:23SPEAKER_01: It's composed of lots of little nucleus and filaments.
- 10:26SPEAKER_01: The nucleus attracts the lipids, the filaments capture them, and all those nucleus and filaments are assembled in the shape of a ball.
- 10:33SPEAKER_01: And that's what's called a missile.
- 10:35SPEAKER_01: And if you think about it, if the nucleus is going to attract lipids like a magnet and the filament is going to capture it, well, it basically you basically have just invented a magnet to dirt to be used on the skin.
- 10:47SPEAKER_01: And that's exactly how the product worked.
- 10:49SPEAKER_01: Without rubbing that much, the dirt, the makeup, the impurities, the lipids that may be on the surface of your skin are attracted by those missiles like a magnet.
- 10:58SPEAKER_01: And when you remove the cotton pad, everything goes away with it.
- 11:01SPEAKER_01: And that's that's where the beauty of this technology lies.
- 11:04SPEAKER_01: Very, very little make any collection, hence the fact that it's great for sensitive skin.
- 11:08SPEAKER_00: Yeah, no, I mean it's a really fascinating product, right?
- 11:11SPEAKER_00: Because I I think you guys kind of created this category and and you know, it shows because I I really when I use it, it's not, I mean, even on days where I, you know, even if you're not wearing makeup or anything heavy on your face and you just want to cleanse your face, right?
- 11:27SPEAKER_00: I mean, a lot of us touch up through the day or whatever we might need it for.
- 11:31SPEAKER_00: If you're in healthcare, I'm sure you understand, you know, your face can get a little greasy, and you know, there's a lot of things going on in the hospital.
- 11:37SPEAKER_00: So if you're touching up your face throughout the day, this is a it's like a must-have product, you know, and it's for many reasons.
- 11:43SPEAKER_00: It's not just because you're taking away something, right?
- 11:46SPEAKER_00: Like makeup or sunscreen or whatever.
- 11:48SPEAKER_00: It's because sometimes your skin also just needs to be freshened up.
- 11:52SPEAKER_00: And what does that really mean?
- 11:53SPEAKER_00: You know, that's everyday pollution, everyday grime, everyday sweat.
- 11:57SPEAKER_00: You know, these are all things that we require, you know, in our normal routine that it doesn't necessarily have to do with this heavy, like, you know, because I feel like there's a category, right?
- 12:07SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean, like makeup removers or something.
- 12:09SPEAKER_00: And, you know, people always gravitate toward towards micellar water because they think it's like a great makeup remover, but then nobody's talking about the fact that exactly what you just explained, like what are what are micles?
- 12:20SPEAKER_00: You know, they are these microscopic, you know, wonderful mechanism of creating an effective way of removing anything that's lipophilic, you know, and it will take it away.
- 12:31SPEAKER_00: And so that can be anything.
- 12:32SPEAKER_00: It doesn't have to be makeup or sunscreen or or whatever.
- 12:35SPEAKER_00: You can use it throughout the day.
- 12:36SPEAKER_00: And so I find it to be very balancing as well for the skin.
- 12:40SPEAKER_00: I think that's what I'm trying to say is that it's a very balancing step in my routine because it doesn't, it's not just about the fact that I'm removing something, it's that I'm also giving my skin hydration through the day, balancing properties.
- 12:52SPEAKER_00: It's a lot of things.
- 12:53SPEAKER_00: So it's very fascinating, the technology.
- 12:55SPEAKER_01: I mean, there's two things you just said are very important.
- 12:57SPEAKER_01: The first is the product was not invented as a makeup remover, it was invented as a cleanser for sensitive skin.
- 13:04SPEAKER_01: The fact that it works as a fantastic makeup remover, the fact that it became worldwide one of the best-selling makeup removers ever, has nothing to do with the makeup artistry.
- 13:13SPEAKER_01: It was first invented as a cleanser for very sensitive skin designed to be used by dermatologists.
- 13:19SPEAKER_01: This is how the product was born.
- 13:20SPEAKER_01: Now, you also said something very interesting.
- 13:23SPEAKER_01: The first, very and most important step of every cleansing or every routine, skincare routine is the cleansing.
- 13:29SPEAKER_01: So if you don't have a good cleanser, if you don't cleanse your skin well, if you don't remove the impurities and then you apply a skincare or serum, you might create a big an even bigger problem.
- 13:38SPEAKER_01: If you don't remove what may create long-term and inflammation from your skin, which is allergens, you know, pollution fragments, well, if you don't remove that and then you apply uh, you know, cream or serum on top of that, you might create a problem where there wasn't any to start with.
- 13:52SPEAKER_01: So again, the first most important step of a healthy routine when it comes to skincare is cleansing.
- 13:58SPEAKER_00: Yeah, yeah, absolutely.
- 13:59SPEAKER_00: And you know what's really fascinating is that this is actually, in my opinion, a pre-wash before you even use it.
- 14:07SPEAKER_00: Any, if you're somebody who loves cleansers, you know, anyone listening out there, if you love a really great, like, foamy cleanser or something like that.
- 14:15SPEAKER_00: I really, I mean, I'm not a huge believer in that because I'm not I'm not very pro like dense like lots of surfactants in your products and all these things, because I think they genuinely just strip your skin of, you know, any kind of natural protection it has.
- 14:28SPEAKER_00: And I don't think you have to do that if you want to cleanse it.
- 14:30SPEAKER_00: I mean, there's no need to strip it just because you're cleansing it.
- 14:33SPEAKER_00: This could this is a great product because it'll show you actually, if you use the bioderma, the micler water, you will see how much cleansing your skin actually needs versus what you thought it needed.
- 14:45SPEAKER_00: I think it's a really, really great strategy for people who are trying to figure out, you know, what is right for my skin.
- 14:51SPEAKER_00: Because at the end of the day, what I see a lot of, and you know, Jeremy, I'm sure you've seen it as well, you know, all over the place is a bunch of products that people have created that are very harsh on the skin and they might even be marketed as being for sensitive skin, you know, they might even have the labels on them that yes, this is great for sensitive skin.
- 15:10SPEAKER_00: Well, at the end of the day, what does that really mean to be great for sensitive skin?
- 15:15SPEAKER_00: If you're if you're putting a chemical on your skin that's going to cause the natural lipids and the natural oils to be stripped away from your skin, I disagree that that's normal and that's good for sensitive skin.
- 15:25SPEAKER_00: So I think it's also great, you know what I mean, in terms of if someone's really trying to figure out like what works for me, how much do I need to cleanse my skin?
- 15:32SPEAKER_00: This is a great way to figure that out, you know, by using this product.
- 15:36SPEAKER_01: I think I'm not gonna go into what's good or what's not good, but but for sure it's you know, there's a skincare for everyone out there.
- 15:41SPEAKER_01: But one thing that is 100% true about what you said is that it's a great step in a two-step cleansing routine.
- 15:47SPEAKER_01: Some sometimes we even hear about three-step cleansing routine.
- 15:51SPEAKER_01: At Biodama, we have usually the missile water at step one, the forming, the sensible forming gel at step two.
- 15:56SPEAKER_01: And very recently we tried to go even further with our cleansing missile oil.
- 16:01SPEAKER_01: So that's you were talking about innovation.
- 16:03SPEAKER_01: So that's the little sister of this missile technology innovation that happens in 1995.
- 16:09SPEAKER_01: Last year we've launched a missile oil.
- 16:11SPEAKER_01: So using the same missile technology, but in an oil-based product.
- 16:15SPEAKER_01: And that again has tremendous benefit.
- 16:18SPEAKER_01: The first one is that oil is very good to dissolve makeup that is waterproof or to remove um sunscreen.
- 16:24SPEAKER_01: You know, I was just recently on holidays putting a lot of sunscreen, sand, sunscreen, it's hard to sometimes remove.
- 16:30SPEAKER_01: You always have some trace residue in your skin.
- 16:32SPEAKER_01: Well, the oil is going to help you dissolve that, plus the missile technology to remove anything that could still remain.
- 16:39SPEAKER_01: So that's the latest innovation.
- 16:40SPEAKER_01: It's been to be doing phenomenally well for us in the US market and in Canada as well.
- 16:44SPEAKER_01: I think this is one of the products that everybody should try lately.
- 16:47SPEAKER_01: And uh, and again, it all stemmed from that ecobiological principle where we're trying to respect the skin natural ecosystem as much as we can.
- 16:55SPEAKER_01: So missile technology was, I said, step one, but it can be used in different products.
- 16:59SPEAKER_01: And we've just proven recently that this missile oil is beautiful in that sense.
- 17:03SPEAKER_00: That's so interesting that you have this oil product now.
- 17:05SPEAKER_00: I mean, that really, I'm sure that complements, right?
- 17:07SPEAKER_00: Like in the scientific sense, the the micels and how they work.
- 17:11SPEAKER_00: Totally.
- 17:11SPEAKER_01: This is totally the behind this innovation is how we can use that technology, which is honestly groundbreaking, still is, into different ways that can suit our consumer needs.
- 17:21SPEAKER_01: And in this case, I would say that we definitely accomplished something great.
- 17:25SPEAKER_01: And if you haven't tried it, uh, you should definitely do do so.
- 17:28SPEAKER_00: Yeah, no, I I I definitely, you know, I'm gonna look into it, but you know, I have no doubt that it's amazing because I mean, at the end of the day, if the science adds up, the science speaks for itself, right?
- 17:38SPEAKER_00: That's my whole fundamental personally as a consumer, is that I look for very science-forward products.
- 17:43SPEAKER_00: And I think you guys really are the epitome of that.
- 17:45SPEAKER_00: You know, I really, really value the the innovation that comes out of Bioderma because it is actually for me as a consumer, it paves the road for me when I'm looking for other products, you know, because I want something that's gentle, I want something that's going to be effective.
- 17:59SPEAKER_00: And I think when the in the clutter of this industry, people are looking for things that are, you know, really great at removing everything that they put on their skin.
- 18:06SPEAKER_00: And you had mentioned sunscreen earlier.
- 18:08SPEAKER_00: And I'm I really believe, obviously, like everybody else, you know, I'm a very pro-sunscreen, but one of the big problems I've noticed is that a lot of people have reported, you know, because I've used so much sunscreen, my skin is starting to break out.
- 18:19SPEAKER_00: And I firmly believe that that is because we're not properly removing our sunscreen at the end of the day.
- 18:25SPEAKER_00: So that's another reason why I'm like, you know, I'm just so excited about biodermist products because they really work.
- 18:31SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 18:32SPEAKER_00: And they work in a way that's like, it's very, like you said, it's made to be gentle.
- 18:36SPEAKER_00: It's made for sensitive skin, it's made for everybody's skin.
- 18:39SPEAKER_00: So that's very exciting for me as a scientist to see that because I think that's half the battle.
- 18:44SPEAKER_00: You know, we talk about things like, for example, acne and we talk about all of these conditions that arise, especially, you know, a lot of adolescent teenagers right now, right?
- 18:52SPEAKER_00: They're like flocking to skincare and they want to do everything for their skin.
- 18:56SPEAKER_00: But one thing that we're not speaking about, I think, as an industry is talking about what are the safe products to use.
- 19:02SPEAKER_00: And I definitely think, again, the products that you guys have created with Bioderma, these are very, very safe for any skin type.
- 19:10SPEAKER_00: And that's like fundamental.
- 19:11SPEAKER_00: And again, it speaks to your science.
- 19:13SPEAKER_00: So very exciting, extremely exciting.
- 19:15SPEAKER_01: You said something very interesting, and I think it it resonates with a lot of us working here at Naos, is that it we we spend, I think, more time trying to figure out what not to put in our products rather than what we're going to put in in terms of efficiency.
- 19:27SPEAKER_01: I think that the consumers have understood it with the education and the knowledge they're acquiring over time, is that having a ton of ingredients inside the product does not guarantee efficiency, and it certainly doesn't guarantee that it will not have any inflammation or any non-dominant effect.
- 19:43SPEAKER_01: So we spend a lot of time trying to figure out which ingredients today are we should be getting away from.
- 19:49SPEAKER_01: We even have a procedure called or you know, rogue that basically coder codes every ingredient that is out there in the world of this of skincare.
- 19:56SPEAKER_01: We're trying to get away from any ingredients that may from either an immediate effect or, you know, in association with the other ingredients, have an indesirable effect over time.
- 20:07SPEAKER_01: So this is something that I think as an industry we should all be focusing on.
- 20:11SPEAKER_01: And it's something that Biodama and Situested and Etapu have done really well so over the last 10 years.
- 20:17SPEAKER_00: Yeah, no, I think that's really fascinating that you guys do that actually.
- 20:20SPEAKER_00: Because I was gonna ask you, you know, since you you've really kind of been in leadership positions, you know, globally, and I'm I'm curious, you know, from your experience, what have you noticed in terms of the differences that, you know, when it comes to say ingredients or or just things that are avoided, you know, in other parts of the world versus like America, for example.
- 20:38SPEAKER_00: This is like separate from bioderma.
- 20:40SPEAKER_00: I'm just wondering from your personal perspective, what what have you noticed that's different?
- 20:44SPEAKER_01: It's a touchy subject, and and I will say you know the best I can.
- 20:48SPEAKER_01: It's true that the US in some areas is is falling a bit short in terms of ingredients, mainly because of you know old, old regulations that have not yet been updated by the AFDA, the Federal Drug Association.
- 21:01SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 21:01SPEAKER_01: This is preventing the US consumers from accessing more modern formulations.
- 21:06SPEAKER_01: When it comes to Suncare, for example, if you go to Europe, you may have noticed that we have sometimes 50 or 100 different Suncare products for certain brands, where in the US we have either none or very few.
- 21:17SPEAKER_01: And that also comes from the fact that those FDA filters approved by FDA haven't been you know updated for a very, very long time.
- 21:24SPEAKER_01: So that can also be a problem for US consumers when it comes to access to good formulation.
- 21:30SPEAKER_01: Now, that being said, I know that they're working on modernizing the FDA regulation.
- 21:35SPEAKER_01: I know the MOCHRA just came out lately in that spirit.
- 21:38SPEAKER_01: So I'm very hopeful that in the coming years we will see improvement on that front and that more modern formulations and innovations will be made available to uh American consumers.
- 21:47SPEAKER_00: I love that.
- 21:48SPEAKER_00: And I I completely agree with you.
- 21:49SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I'm really excited to see what MoCRA does for us, you know, because it's it's very, very fascinating to see whenever I go to Europe or even you know Asia, Asian countries.
- 21:58SPEAKER_00: Yeah, the innovation is striking.
- 22:00SPEAKER_00: Different, you know, it's like you have you go go from almost like five options to like 5,000, you know, all of a sudden.
- 22:07SPEAKER_00: So it's a lot of difference.
- 22:08SPEAKER_00: And so yeah, I that's why I was curious because you know, even in yeah, in Europe, you see so many more options.
- 22:14SPEAKER_00: And I've always said, I think, Jeremy, on the podcast, I always say this if you're shopping for a brand, and this is my opinion, so everyone take it with a grain of salt, but if you're shopping for a brand in skincare and they don't have something like, you know, just an understanding of like what good ingredients versus bad ingredients are, you might want to step back for a minute, you know, and rethink like, what am I really shopping for?
- 22:35SPEAKER_00: What am I voting for with my dollars?
- 22:37SPEAKER_00: You know, because at the end of the day, consumers do drive a lot of this, you know, a lot of innovation is driven by consumers and our voices and what we want in our products.
- 22:45SPEAKER_00: And so if anyone's listening out there and you know, if you're looking for a brand, you should really think about that.
- 22:49SPEAKER_00: You know, what what do I want?
- 22:51SPEAKER_00: What do I want to avoid?
- 22:52SPEAKER_00: Those kind of things.
- 22:53SPEAKER_00: And I think that'll help us in the US because we're a little behind, in my opinion, you know, with the we owe it to the consumers to listen to their voices.
- 23:01SPEAKER_01: And I think that again, the last 10 years, the voices have been pretty clear about the fact that ecology is important.
- 23:06SPEAKER_01: I know not doing anything stupid when it comes to uh to the environment is important.
- 23:10SPEAKER_01: Putting as little as we can in the formulations to avoid any harmful effects due to some ingredients that may have some secondary or negative effect on the skin or even the body itself, those voices have been getting louder and louder.
- 23:21SPEAKER_01: And I think we've most of us within the industry have listened to those voices very carefully.
- 23:27SPEAKER_01: And I'm quite sure that at Naos within the coming you know five to ten years, we will again show tremendous innovation or on those frauds I've just mentioned, which is ecology and and the respect of the skin as an ecosystem.
- 23:38SPEAKER_00: That's really exciting to hear that because I I wanted to actually ask you because you know, this idea of anti-aging or really innovation in aging, right?
- 23:47SPEAKER_00: Like understanding aging as a whole, I think this is really fueled by a lot of larger companies.
- 23:53SPEAKER_00: And I think a lot of that research is really done, you know, by people who are on the larger scale.
- 23:58SPEAKER_00: So I guess my question for you is like, what are you guys doing on that front when it comes to the research and technology towards figuring out, you know, how to combat signs of aging or anything related to longevity, maybe?
- 24:09SPEAKER_00: I mean, if you could speak a little bit on that.
- 24:11SPEAKER_01: That's a great topic.
- 24:12SPEAKER_01: It's something that I personally love.
- 24:13SPEAKER_01: Well, first of all, at Naos, we don't talk about anti-aging.
- 24:16SPEAKER_01: We're not anti-something that is natural.
- 24:18SPEAKER_01: I mean, aging, if you think about it, is a natural thing in life.
- 24:21SPEAKER_01: I mean, we all age somehow, and and and what we're trying to accomplish is rather than being anti-aging, it's trying to help women and men to help beautifully.
- 24:29SPEAKER_01: I think that what people in the end of the day want is to go through ages looking their best.
- 24:34SPEAKER_01: But you cannot be against something that is natural.
- 24:36SPEAKER_01: Again, we're talking here about being ecobiological and you know, aging being very much in a biological process.
- 24:43SPEAKER_01: There's nothing here we should be correcting.
- 24:46SPEAKER_01: Now, that being said, our approach being about helping women age beautifully, we've done a numerous innovation over the years.
- 24:54SPEAKER_01: The most recent one is the age crew TM launch on Anstitute STDM.
- 24:58SPEAKER_01: Again, Institute STDM is really the brand where we will be talking about aging.
- 25:02SPEAKER_01: Bioderma, we don't talk about aging.
- 25:04SPEAKER_01: We talk about pathology, eczema, sensitive skin, acne.
- 25:08SPEAKER_01: We'll talk about how we help the skin to correct those imbalances, but we don't talk about aging.
- 25:12SPEAKER_01: When it comes to aging, it's really the realm of Anstadem, where we've done a number of innovations.
- 25:17SPEAKER_01: The latest one being H proteom, which is honestly, since the invention of missile water for me, the the biggest innovation the group has ever done.
- 25:26SPEAKER_00: Well, that's really fascinating.
- 25:28SPEAKER_00: So you said proteome?
- 25:29SPEAKER_01: So yeah, the concept behind this entire innovation is quite disruptive.
- 25:34SPEAKER_01: Everybody's trying to protect the DNA.
- 25:36SPEAKER_01: That's that's what you know everybody is trying to achieve in terms of innovation lately.
- 25:41SPEAKER_01: When it comes to H proteum, then well, I I should start the story by explaining that it all started with a part with a friendship, the friendship between two men, Jean-Noël Tourel, the founder of Laboratoire Bioderma, and Miroslav Radman, a researcher from Croatia, fascinated with what he calls freaks of life.
- 25:58SPEAKER_01: You know, living organism, whether it's a bacteria, a virus, or you know, any other sorts of living organism that can sustain life under extreme conditions.
- 26:08SPEAKER_01: And he was he's been studying that for 20 years.
- 26:10SPEAKER_01: And at night in Paris, he was actually walking around in Paris and it started snowing.
- 26:15SPEAKER_01: And he thought, well, why don't I collect a few snowflakes and see if there's anything living on obviously snowflakes come from you know upper layer, well, from the sky, but sometimes upper layer of the atmosphere.
- 26:26SPEAKER_01: They're subjected to you know very low temperature, extreme conditions.
- 26:30SPEAKER_01: So maybe we'll find something on one of those local snowflakes that can, you know, share its secret with us.
- 26:36SPEAKER_01: And funny enough, he discovered a bacteria called microruberia, which basically can sustain incredible amount of radiation, can sustain life in very harsh environment.
- 26:47SPEAKER_01: And the the way this bacteria is surviving is because it's protecting the proteins that are in charge of rebuilding your DNA, or you know, repairing DNA.
- 26:56SPEAKER_01: So, you know, radiation to destroy DNA, to damage it, but because it's protecting its proteins, and as you very well know, protein are what you know essential, what is essential to life, and repairing DNA is one of the many functions that proteins have.
- 27:10SPEAKER_01: By protecting these proteins with a the chaperon system, it can sustain life.
- 27:15SPEAKER_01: And what we did is we started cultivating that bacteria, and we are using now that technology within our product to again help the skin repair its DNA.
- 27:26SPEAKER_00: Wow.
- 27:26SPEAKER_00: So it's biocompatible with the human skin then.
- 27:29SPEAKER_01: It is, it is 100% biocompatible.
- 27:31SPEAKER_01: Again, we're here, we didn't invent it anything.
- 27:34SPEAKER_01: We studied the life, we studied the biology that was that was around us.
- 27:37SPEAKER_01: We tried to understand how this particular living organism was working, what was the relationship between that living organism and its environment?
- 27:44SPEAKER_01: And again, that ecobiology concept, we reverse engineered engineered it and used it in our in our products.
- 27:50SPEAKER_01: And yes, it is fully compatible, it's a totally biomimetic approach.
- 27:54SPEAKER_00: That is so cool.
- 27:55SPEAKER_00: And you know what's interesting?
- 27:56SPEAKER_00: I've always been interested in like extremophiles, which are the kind of bacteria you're talking about.
- 28:00SPEAKER_00: Like extremophiles to me have always been like the next frontier.
- 28:03SPEAKER_00: And I've always wondered why are people not looking into them?
- 28:06SPEAKER_00: Because they, you know, there are bacteria.
- 28:08SPEAKER_00: You mentioned the the UV radiation, but they're a bacteria that can survive like ridiculous hot temperatures, you know, without degrading any of their components.
- 28:16SPEAKER_00: And they're just, you know, that's their natural way of living.
- 28:18SPEAKER_00: And for for us to be able to apply that to our own biology, that's so fascinating, you know.
- 28:24SPEAKER_00: And I'm very excited about that.
- 28:25SPEAKER_00: That's truly, truly innovative.
- 28:27SPEAKER_00: Very cool.
- 28:29SPEAKER_01: The solutions are all around us.
- 28:31SPEAKER_01: We need to be, we need to be able to look into what's around us and learn from that.
- 28:35SPEAKER_01: I think that trying to beat nature is is is a concept that we shouldn't we should steam away from.
- 28:40SPEAKER_01: Solutions exist in the very thing that's around us, and that's where that innovation came from.
- 28:45SPEAKER_00: I completely agree.
- 28:46SPEAKER_00: That's so beautiful.
- 28:47SPEAKER_00: I love that.
- 28:48SPEAKER_00: And I I'm so excited to see you guys bring that to you know the forefront because we we need that, I think, more than ever.
- 28:55SPEAKER_00: And I think across the field, you know, Jeremy, for me, medicine is so it's so interesting because the innovation that has always occurred, the really big hallmark innovations that have always occurred in medicine have always been exactly what you just said, which is not trying to change the world around us, but learning from it, you know, and really adapting and understanding it and applying it.
- 29:16SPEAKER_00: And I've always noticed that across the board, you know, both as a student and my training, everything that everything that was big and relevant to our human body was an adaptation from what we observed out here in nature or within ourselves, you know, on a deeper scale.
- 29:30SPEAKER_00: So it's very fascinating.
- 29:31SPEAKER_00: And I just I love everything you guys are doing.
- 29:33SPEAKER_00: Your products are beyond, I mean, there's nothing that compares to them, and rightfully so, because you're pouring your money into the right stuff, which is the science.
- 29:41SPEAKER_00: So, really hats off to you and your whole team.
- 29:43SPEAKER_00: And thank you so much for leading the way for this industry because we need that.
- 29:47SPEAKER_00: I'm very, very honored to have interviewed you and to learn from you.
- 29:50SPEAKER_01: And you know what's the beauty of also H Pro TM is is that being a product that was born within Institute Sidam, the texture, the fragrance that we're using in in that product is simply out of this world.
- 30:03SPEAKER_01: I mean, I'm a man, and for me to use skincare is is a stretch, even though I work within the industry and and I tend to not have many products within my routine.
- 30:11SPEAKER_01: I brought that product back six months, nine months ago to my wife, and I tried it once, and since then it's mine and it's in my in my pouch every time I travel.
- 30:19SPEAKER_01: It has feel-good effect.
- 30:21SPEAKER_01: It it immediately penetrates my skin.
- 30:23SPEAKER_01: It feels great, it gives me a boost every morning.
- 30:25SPEAKER_01: And again, for me to say that it is a is a stretch.
- 30:29SPEAKER_01: I just adore that product.
- 30:31SPEAKER_01: It's it's the one product that will not leave anywhere without it's it's a feel-good product all the way.
- 30:36SPEAKER_00: So that's so that's so amazing to hear that because yeah, the hardest part about, you know, I think the skincare industry is getting you men on board, you know, with skincare.
- 30:46SPEAKER_00: So that's really fascinating.
- 30:47SPEAKER_00: I hope anyone listening out there, any women listening that have husbands or you know, anyone that you're trying to get onto the skincare that's a man, yeah, this might be it.
- 30:55SPEAKER_00: So definitely to pay attention to that.
- 30:57SPEAKER_00: That's really cool.
- 30:58SPEAKER_00: Very fascinating.
- 30:59SPEAKER_00: But thank you so much, Jeremy.
- 31:00SPEAKER_00: This has been really great.
- 31:01SPEAKER_00: And I've loved learning from you.
- 31:02SPEAKER_00: And I'm really a huge fan.
- 31:04SPEAKER_00: I really am of Bioderma and all of the all of the you know, wonderful brands under analysis umbrella.
- 31:10SPEAKER_00: I think you guys are truly innovating in a way that I rarely see, you know, in this industry.
- 31:15SPEAKER_00: I've interviewed a lot of brands and you know, I I I love what we do.
- 31:19SPEAKER_00: I think as an industry as a whole, I think everyone's trying to improve it in some way, but I think that there's a level of science and innovation that goes beyond, you know, and it and it takes you to that next frontier.
- 31:29SPEAKER_00: And I think that's exactly what you guys stand for.
- 31:32SPEAKER_00: So I'm a huge fan, and I think a lot of our listeners are.
- 31:35SPEAKER_00: So I thank you again for coming onto the show and and educating us.
- 31:39SPEAKER_01: Thank you very much, Ekta.
- 31:40SPEAKER_01: It was a true pleasure.
- 31:41SPEAKER_01: And I want also to thank all the people listening to us because in the end of the day, being you know, consumer-centric brands means we're learning from you, we're learning from the methodologies we're working every day with.
- 31:50SPEAKER_01: We're also learning from our, I don't like to say competitors, because I do think that eventually we're all serving the same objective, which is the health of our of our consumer skin.
- 31:59SPEAKER_01: And we all partner in a way.
- 32:01SPEAKER_01: So I want to thank everyone working hard in the industry to uh to create those those fantastic products and to push us further.
- 32:07SPEAKER_01: I think that in the end of the day, we all win.
- 32:09SPEAKER_01: And and the and the consumer skins is definitely winning every time we are we are coming, uh, one of us is coming with a breakthrough innovation.
- 32:16SPEAKER_01: So thank thanks to all of us.
- 32:17SPEAKER_01: Thank you very much for hosting this beautiful podcast.
- 32:20SPEAKER_01: And I look forward eventually in the future coming back.
- 32:22SPEAKER_00: Yes.
- 32:23SPEAKER_00: Oh my gosh, please, anytime that your time allows, I'm here for it.
- 32:26SPEAKER_00: And I love everything you said, by the way.
- 32:28SPEAKER_00: I completely agree with you.
- 32:29SPEAKER_00: I think it is about the greater good, you know, it is about coming to a a better understanding, you know, of skin and skin health.
- 32:36SPEAKER_00: And so I I love that that's what you lead with, and that's what you your own philosophy is, because I think we need to see more of that.
- 32:43SPEAKER_00: And I I mean, there's a reason you guys are the leaders here, you know what I mean?
- 32:46SPEAKER_00: And there's a reason why your products resonate with so many people because they're they're coming from a very genuine place.
- 32:52SPEAKER_00: And I, for anyone listening, you know, I'm like literally a huge fan of every single thing I've tried.
- 32:57SPEAKER_00: You know, Bioderma is my the main brand under Now's group that I love.
- 33:02SPEAKER_00: But you guys, I want to hear from you.
- 33:04SPEAKER_00: And if you can chime in, let us know what you guys love, and and maybe we can bring Jeremy back for a fun QA or something.
- 33:09SPEAKER_00: That'd be really great.
- 33:10SPEAKER_01: That'll be my pleasure.
- 33:11SPEAKER_01: Thank you very much.
- 33:12SPEAKER_00: Thank you so much.
- 33:13SPEAKER_00: Hey guys, so I hope you love that episode.
- 33:15SPEAKER_00: Please make sure to hit subscribe if you're tuning in to us on any podcast platform.
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