Latest / Wander the World with Pippa Hudson / Wander the World: Discovering the wonders of Moster’s Mill
Transcript
- 0:00Speaker 1: It is time for our travel segment Wander the World,
- 0:02Speaker 1: and we are wandering in our very own backyard today
- 0:05Speaker 1: as we shine the spotlight on one of Cape Town's
- 0:08Speaker 1: most distinctive landmarks. Mostet's Mill has occupied its spot in
- 0:12Speaker 1: the shadow of Devil's Peak since the are seventeen to
- 0:14Speaker 1: ninety six. It is the oldest surviving complete windmill in
- 0:18Speaker 1: South Africa and the last working windmill in Africa. But
- 0:22Speaker 1: as you will know, it has been through a lot
- 0:24Speaker 1: in recent years. Most noted be the fact that just
- 0:27Speaker 1: one day after the completion of a six year restoration project,
- 0:32Speaker 1: it was burnt in the fire that destroyed parts of uct,
- 0:36Speaker 1: starting all over again. It took another three years for
- 0:39Speaker 1: it to be rebuilt and restored, and we are going
- 0:41Speaker 1: to have a conversation today with the man who is
- 0:44Speaker 1: in charge of that restoration. I want to, though, first
- 0:46Speaker 1: thank our listener Don who wrote to me saying please
- 0:49Speaker 1: get this guest onto the show, because Don and some
- 0:52Speaker 1: of his family members had the opportunity to do a
- 0:55Speaker 1: tour of Mostets Mill some time ago and said the
- 0:58Speaker 1: distant past and the most recent restoration make for the
- 1:00Speaker 1: most fascinating history. From the acquisition of the wood to
- 1:04Speaker 1: replace all that was burned, to the technical work that
- 1:07Speaker 1: went into constructing the lathe for the year, the break
- 1:10Speaker 1: and the cap rings. It was astounding. Don thank you
- 1:13Speaker 1: so much for pointing us in the direction of the
- 1:16Speaker 1: story of Most at Smull. And it's a huge pleasure
- 1:18Speaker 1: to welcome on the line. Andy self, who is somebody
- 1:21Speaker 1: who has studied both windmills and water mills in depth,
- 1:24Speaker 1: has been involved in the restoration of a number of
- 1:26Speaker 1: different mills in addition to Most at Smell And maybe
- 1:31Speaker 1: we'll have time to talk about some of those others.
- 1:32Speaker 1: But Andy, Firstley, thank you for making yourself available to
- 1:35Speaker 1: us on a public holiday. We really appreciate your time
- 1:37Speaker 1: and welcome to the show.
- 1:39Speaker 2: Thank you, Papa. Yes, it's good speaking. You've you've said
- 1:43Speaker 2: everything that needs to be.
- 1:45Speaker 1: If you finished. Okay, sorry about that.
- 1:49Speaker 2: And yeah, one thing we must get dry is that
- 1:53Speaker 2: I was only in charge of the moving parts, the
- 1:56Speaker 2: working parts, okay. The building, the floors, the beams, the windows,
- 2:03Speaker 2: the doors, and the roof were all in the in
- 2:10Speaker 2: the sphere of John Wilson Harris of Fagan's Architects.
- 2:18Speaker 1: Okay, thanks for for clarifying that, Andy, and I appreciate
- 2:22Speaker 1: that we get to acknowledge his role as well. Thank
- 2:24Speaker 1: you for that. Andy. Before we talk about the restoration
- 2:27Speaker 1: and the history of most Ittsmell itself, just tell us
- 2:29Speaker 1: a little bit about your backstory and where the fascination
- 2:33Speaker 1: with water and windmills actually began for you.
- 2:36Speaker 2: Well, it's I'm an agricultural mechanic by trade, or I've
- 2:43Speaker 2: got a business in that line, and I was I'm
- 2:47Speaker 2: also a collector of stationary engines, and I was introduced
- 2:51Speaker 2: twenty years ago to the water mill at Beaumont Wines.
- 2:55Speaker 2: That's Compania's drift right in the middle of bot River,
- 2:59Speaker 2: and that was made four times when there was no
- 3:03Speaker 2: water to be driven by a stationary engine. So I
- 3:08Speaker 2: brought an engine of mine down there and we got
- 3:12Speaker 2: the mill going, part of the mill going in a
- 3:16Speaker 2: couple of weeks. But that started a four year every Saturday,
- 3:22Speaker 2: every spem minute restoration of that water mill to work
- 3:27Speaker 2: with water again. And now we operate that once a
- 3:33Speaker 2: month and it brings a lot of people there and
- 3:36Speaker 2: it's an added attraction to the winery and the deli
- 3:40Speaker 2: and everything else that's on the farm. So that started,
- 3:44Speaker 2: and during that time I was asked to help out
- 3:48Speaker 2: at LaMotte, and I'm actually today working on an aspect
- 3:54Speaker 2: of LaMotte's mill, which has also been gradually we've been
- 3:59Speaker 2: upgrading that one. We're going to be making a new
- 4:04Speaker 2: water wheel for that, and I'm working on the millstones
- 4:09Speaker 2: at the moment, so we are going to have that
- 4:11Speaker 2: one running absolutely perfectly again, really for the first time
- 4:16Speaker 2: since doctor Rupert brought the equipment from a farm in
- 4:22Speaker 2: Series many years ago. So that and then also in
- 4:27Speaker 2: those four years, I was asked to help at Mostarts
- 4:30Speaker 2: mill with those upgrades, which spread over six years. In fact,
- 4:37Speaker 2: we did one aspect and then we milled for a
- 4:40Speaker 2: while and it was better, and then we said, okay,
- 4:42Speaker 2: well now we've got some money in from the gate,
- 4:46Speaker 2: let's tackle the next one. And those restorations, those upgrades
- 4:50Speaker 2: really took six years, and as you said, the last
- 4:56Speaker 2: of them, the sixth one, we finished the afternoon before
- 4:59Speaker 2: the fire.
- 5:00Speaker 1: Unbelievable story. And he will get back to the fire
- 5:03Speaker 1: and to that restoration shortly, but let's go way back
- 5:07Speaker 1: in the past. So thank you for the sort of
- 5:10Speaker 1: context for the conversation, and fantastic to how much work
- 5:13Speaker 1: is being done on the water mills as well. This
- 5:15Speaker 1: Mustard's Mill, though, is unique in being the windmill that
- 5:20Speaker 1: is the last working windmill in Africa. What do we
- 5:23Speaker 1: know about its early history? We know the date seventeen
- 5:26Speaker 1: ninety six appears on the structure, but how much do
- 5:31Speaker 1: we know about how it came to be there and
- 5:34Speaker 1: who actually built the original mill.
- 5:37Speaker 2: It was built byton Rhiannon and it gets the name
- 5:42Speaker 2: Mustard from his son in law. It was built at
- 5:46Speaker 2: the sort of tailor end of the Voces control over
- 5:50Speaker 2: food and milling and all the other food supply. Their
- 5:56Speaker 2: late seventeen hundreds they were face of fiddling, fizzling out
- 6:03Speaker 2: the voc And it's a half size mill. It's a
- 6:09Speaker 2: small farm mill. If you go to Livemullen in Alexandra
- 6:14Speaker 2: Hospital you'll see its double the size. All the Dutch
- 6:18Speaker 2: mills that double the size. So this is a mini
- 6:22Speaker 2: farm mill made for the Fernery Andums and perhaps their
- 6:26Speaker 2: neighbors as well in that time. And it must have
- 6:32Speaker 2: been used, say from the late seventeen hundreds for well.
- 6:37Speaker 2: Certainly by the time that Rhodes bought that area as
- 6:42Speaker 2: part of Kotskiev, it was derelict by that stage. We've
- 6:46Speaker 2: got photographs of it there, so we don't know how
- 6:49Speaker 2: long it was used as a as the farm mill
- 6:54Speaker 2: before it before it went out of service and perhaps
- 7:00Speaker 2: was taken over by the commercial mills, and there were
- 7:02Speaker 2: about fifteen of them in Cape Town. And then yeah,
- 7:09Speaker 2: it was derelict by the early nineteen hundreds. Then in
- 7:18Speaker 2: nineteen thirty five it was decided to restore it to
- 7:23Speaker 2: working order and a combination of the Dutch government and
- 7:28Speaker 2: the South African government the Department of Public Works that
- 7:33Speaker 2: own it, decided to restore it to working order and
- 7:38Speaker 2: they brought a dutchman over from Holland. He spent about
- 7:42Speaker 2: a year here doing a superb job. Rarely they thought
- 7:48Speaker 2: that there was just a few beams to replace, but
- 7:53Speaker 2: when he got here, he really discovered that it really
- 7:57Speaker 2: needed all like I had to do all the wooden
- 8:01Speaker 2: parts over again. Did a lovely job and got it
- 8:05Speaker 2: back into working order. He was held back here. He
- 8:11Speaker 2: was going to have an opening, but then the king
- 8:14Speaker 2: died and everybody was in mourning and he had to
- 8:16Speaker 2: be kept here until that had passed, and then they
- 8:22Speaker 2: had an opening and then so that would have been
- 8:26Speaker 2: nineteenth thirty six. I supposed beginning of thirty six. Yeah,
- 8:30Speaker 2: and then and then it was used again for a
- 8:35Speaker 2: tourist attraction, and we are not sure exactly for how long,
- 8:40Speaker 2: but we do have a photograph, a cutting of the
- 8:45Speaker 2: burger which shows that it was used in the for
- 8:50Speaker 2: the nineteenth fifty two Rebec festival. So that's the last
- 8:59Speaker 2: date that we can pinpoint that it was still in operation.
- 9:04Speaker 2: There was a miller there in government uniform and he's
- 9:11Speaker 2: demonstrating in the run up to the Henriebek Festival. Then
- 9:20Speaker 2: it went out of use again and it was only
- 9:25Speaker 2: in about ninety four that the Vernacular Society Vernacular Architecture
- 9:32Speaker 2: Society spawned a I think that's right word, a group
- 9:38Speaker 2: called Friends of Marstart's Mill, and the decision was to
- 9:43Speaker 2: find some money and restore it again. And remember this
- 9:48Speaker 2: was one year into the New South Africa, and where
- 9:52Speaker 2: is the money going to come from for something that's
- 9:55Speaker 2: clearly colonial. Luckily there was there was a fun tucked
- 10:01Speaker 2: away that was able to be used. And again Dutch
- 10:06Speaker 2: millers mill rights were engaged. But they prefabricated a lot
- 10:12Speaker 2: of the stuff in Holland and brought it over and
- 10:17Speaker 2: it was assembled. Their parts were assembled in two weeks
- 10:24Speaker 2: and Harvey Fagan was still busy on the tower. They
- 10:27Speaker 2: couldn't test it and rarely and then they went off
- 10:32Speaker 2: on holiday after two weeks, toured the country and climbed
- 10:36Speaker 2: on the plane and went home. So after the ninety
- 10:40Speaker 2: four restoration, it never rarely worked properly. There was a
- 10:48Speaker 2: lot of hiccups, and we rather wonder whether they actually
- 10:53Speaker 2: expected us to be seriously milling. But Friends of Master's
- 10:59Speaker 2: Mill worth serious, are serious, and there's no point in
- 11:03Speaker 2: restoring something mechanical like that if it's not going to
- 11:06Speaker 2: be used regularly. And the Dutch Volunteer Society their handbook
- 11:15Speaker 2: starts with a statement saying, if a mill is restored
- 11:20Speaker 2: and it's not used on a regular basis within I
- 11:23Speaker 2: think ten years fifteen years is going to need restoration again.
- 11:27Speaker 2: So we mill, and so Friends of Master's Mill milled
- 11:34Speaker 2: regularly after ninety four ninety five. But we're aware that
- 11:42Speaker 2: there were shortcomings with the restoration of ninety four, and
- 11:46Speaker 2: so that was when I was asked to come in
- 11:50Speaker 2: and do these to help with these these upgrades, and
- 11:56Speaker 2: they were about a six of them, I think altogether.
- 11:59Speaker 1: I just want to say for anybody coming into this interview.
- 12:01Speaker 1: Halfway you're listening to Andy self integrally involved in the
- 12:05Speaker 1: restoration of Mostatt's Mill and talking to us about the
- 12:07Speaker 1: history of this absolutely ariconic cape town landmark and the
- 12:11Speaker 1: many renovations and restorations it's undergone over the years to
- 12:16Speaker 1: keep it in working order. Now, Andy, that second last restoration,
- 12:21Speaker 1: the one that took six years and was done in
- 12:23Speaker 1: waves as funds were raised privately to make it possible
- 12:27Speaker 1: a huge project, Do you want to talk to us
- 12:30Speaker 1: about some of the more remarkable aspects of what it
- 12:33Speaker 1: took to get it back into working order. Our listener Don,
- 12:36Speaker 1: who wrote to us, was just commenting on how fascinated
- 12:40Speaker 1: he was to hear about the technical work that was involved,
- 12:43Speaker 1: the kind of wood that had to be acquired. Can
- 12:45Speaker 1: you paint a picture for us of some of the
- 12:47Speaker 1: standout moments of that six year restoration?
- 12:51Speaker 2: Okay, I'd prefer to call it upgrade. It was sort
- 12:55Speaker 2: of working. We worked on the millstones not properly aligned
- 13:01Speaker 2: with one another, and you can imagine a bedstone underneath
- 13:06Speaker 2: and a runner stone on the top of it. It
- 13:10Speaker 2: must be all pretty accurately matched. So that one said
- 13:16Speaker 2: that it said that they come together properly, and as
- 13:21Speaker 2: the Dutch say, they they have to meet first before
- 13:25Speaker 2: they make love. And so we had to level the bedstone.
- 13:31Speaker 2: We had to balance the runner stone. There was a
- 13:36Speaker 2: loose bearing at the very top of the vertical shaft
- 13:41Speaker 2: that had to be stabilized. What else but the big job,
- 13:48Speaker 2: the last job was the fact that the brakes, because
- 13:53Speaker 2: in a windmill you need to be able to stop
- 13:55Speaker 2: the mill with a brake in order to reset the
- 14:01Speaker 2: sails or reduce the amount of sail cloth that you
- 14:05Speaker 2: have exposed to the wind if it's going to pass.
- 14:09Speaker 2: So you need a break on and the brake. The
- 14:14Speaker 2: brake blocks were we think probably the original ones from
- 14:19Speaker 2: seventeen ninety six, but they were working on a brake
- 14:23Speaker 2: wheel that was brought in nineteen ninety four and that
- 14:27Speaker 2: had gone out a round and it wasn't nearly as
- 14:31Speaker 2: well made as the one that we did. It comes later,
- 14:35Speaker 2: but so Don mentioned the lathe. I had to make
- 14:41Speaker 2: a temporary lathe and make the brake wheel round again,
- 14:49Speaker 2: and that meant people turning the sails on the outside,
- 14:53Speaker 2: so the brake wheel turned while I was able to
- 14:57Speaker 2: take a grinding machine across the surface to make it round.
- 15:01Speaker 2: Then we added blocks over the outside to build up
- 15:05Speaker 2: the diameter, and then we had to make those blocks
- 15:09Speaker 2: round again, and then we had to resize the seventeen
- 15:13Speaker 2: ninety six break a block to match the new diameter.
- 15:18Speaker 2: And that was what we finished and tested. And I've
- 15:22Speaker 2: got a one minute video of somebody turning on the outside,
- 15:28Speaker 2: somebody working on the brake makingism and the break applies,
- 15:32Speaker 2: and the breaker is released and the break is applied,
- 15:36Speaker 2: and I said, well, that's what they wanted us to do.
- 15:38Speaker 2: And of course the next day was all a pile.
- 15:40Speaker 1: Of apsh unbelievable. I mean, Andy, I can't even begin
- 15:44Speaker 1: to imagine what went through your mind when you heard
- 15:47Speaker 1: that the mill was burning one day after you had
- 15:50Speaker 1: successfully tested that.
- 15:52Speaker 2: Take us back to that day.
- 15:53Speaker 1: I mean, did you think the person was having you
- 15:55Speaker 1: on when you first got the news that this was happening.
- 15:59Speaker 2: No, I was well aware, because I'm involved here with
- 16:03Speaker 2: a fire protection association. I was well aware that there
- 16:06Speaker 2: was a fire. I have a fire engine. It was
- 16:09Speaker 2: giving me a bit of trouble, you know, farm type
- 16:12Speaker 2: fire engine. I thought of going through. I thought, gee,
- 16:16Speaker 2: there's a ministerial house next door. Surely they're not going
- 16:21Speaker 2: to let it burn. And then the photographs started coming
- 16:26Speaker 2: through through our friends in the Fire Protection Association showing
- 16:31Speaker 2: worse and worse and worse news. And then of course
- 16:35Speaker 2: it was all.
- 16:36Speaker 1: Over, absolutely soul destroying.
- 16:40Speaker 2: In a way, in a way, it's worked out better
- 16:45Speaker 2: because we've you've heard what I said. There were shortcomings
- 16:49Speaker 2: in the nineteen ninety five nineteen ninety four restorations, and
- 16:56Speaker 2: we are ninety five yah, sorry, and we've now got
- 17:04Speaker 2: a windmill that is better than it was after the
- 17:09Speaker 2: nineteen ninety five restoration, and that all through local craftsmanship.
- 17:18Speaker 2: I was able to We were luckily supported by the
- 17:23Speaker 2: We got donations from all around, but the main dono
- 17:28Speaker 2: was the Report Historic Houses Foundation, and they with that
- 17:35Speaker 2: money behind behind us, it was possible to find the
- 17:39Speaker 2: very very best craftsmen in and around Cape Town. Some
- 17:46Speaker 2: in Cape Town out they here in Elgin, and we
- 17:50Speaker 2: really I was able to say to them, the best
- 17:54Speaker 2: job you can possibly do, the best materials you can
- 17:58Speaker 2: lay your hands on, and it wasn't necessary to ask
- 18:01Speaker 2: for pre bees or discounts and things like that. So
- 18:06Speaker 2: these people really, and there were about seven of us
- 18:09Speaker 2: altogether doing woodwork depending on our skills and our machinery.
- 18:17Speaker 2: So somebody who makes big beams like him on in
- 18:20Speaker 2: Hardbay isn't the right person to ask, perhaps to do
- 18:24Speaker 2: the finest cabinet making that was done here by here
- 18:32Speaker 2: in cabou. So yeah, I mean it's.
- 18:36Speaker 1: A remarkable story, and you know several people messaging in
- 18:38Speaker 1: to say how much they've enjoyed coming to have the
- 18:40Speaker 1: opportunity to see them all. I'm embarrassed to say that
- 18:43Speaker 1: I've never been been to visit it Andy. After living
- 18:46Speaker 1: in Cape Dun since nineteen ninety nine and driving past
- 18:49Speaker 1: it so often and always enjoying what I see, I've
- 18:52Speaker 1: never been to visit. Let's finish with information on how
- 18:55Speaker 1: listeners who are fascinated by the story and want to
- 18:58Speaker 1: admire the exquisite work that has been done can come
- 19:00Speaker 1: and experience it for themselves. Won't you remind us of
- 19:02Speaker 1: how the open days work.
- 19:04Speaker 2: The open days are every third Saturday of every month,
- 19:10Speaker 2: come hell or no wind, so that means that means
- 19:14Speaker 2: this coming Saturday, and we're open from ten until about
- 19:19Speaker 2: three in the afternoon, and of course if there's wind
- 19:23Speaker 2: then we mill and we go through the whole procedure
- 19:27Speaker 2: of setting it up and turning the cup to the
- 19:30Speaker 2: wind and all that sort of thing, and then hope
- 19:33Speaker 2: that there's enough whend to mill with. So we're not
- 19:38Speaker 2: allowed to according to Rhodes as well, we're not allowed
- 19:42Speaker 2: to charge for entry. But what we are allowed to
- 19:46Speaker 2: do is we make people a member for a year,
- 19:50Speaker 2: and that costs fifty rands ahead or one hundred rands
- 19:54Speaker 2: for a family, and then they get a little ticket
- 19:57Speaker 2: and they can come back as many times as they
- 19:59Speaker 2: want to on every third Saturday of every month.
- 20:05Speaker 1: Okay, so this coming Saturday, I hope you'll have a
- 20:07Speaker 1: horde of new Cape Talk listeners coming to take a look. Andy.
- 20:11Speaker 1: We so appreciate your time this afternoon, and thank you
- 20:14Speaker 1: to you and everybody else who's been involved in this
- 20:16Speaker 1: painstaking work to restore it to its a position. And
- 20:20Speaker 1: I mean just so wonderful to see it working again
- 20:23Speaker 1: after the horror of watching it burning. What a happy
- 20:26Speaker 1: ending to the story. And thank you so much for
- 20:28Speaker 1: sharing it with us this afternoon.
- 20:30Speaker 2: Thanks for the exposure too, Thank you, Thank.
- 20:32Speaker 1: You Andy self on the line there. Appreciate your time.
- 20:35Speaker 1: And by the way, the website if you want to
- 20:36Speaker 1: read up more and remind yourself of the details, or
- 20:39Speaker 1: join up as a members of a friend of Mostart's
- 20:42Speaker 1: mill you want to be on Mustardsmell dot co dot
- 20:44Speaker 1: Saturday for more information.