Latest / Specialty Matcha Podcast / Notes at Origin: Hand-picking Honzu Shaded Asahi Cultivar in Uji
Transcript
- 0:00Hello and welcome to the Specialty Match podcast.
- 0:02My name is Ryan, this is my Cohosunjun who also goes by Sam.
- 0:05Hello, hello. And we're the Co founders of
- 0:08Sanka Matcha. Products we launched this
- 0:10podcast to discuss our learning journey, matcha share startup
- 0:13stories and interview experts right now we are sitting right
- 0:17next to this 100 year old camphor tree looking directly
- 0:21into this beautiful riverbank of Wichita and as we just finished
- 0:27our first take to me in underneath a home so shaded tea
- 0:31garden. It's something magical about
- 0:34this moment. We.
- 0:35Wanted to record our initial raw impressions.
- 0:37So we're actually doing this from my phone.
- 0:39So if the audio is not perfect, apologies in advance.
- 0:42But we had the wonderful experience.
- 0:45We're very grateful to have gotten to do handpicking to zoom
- 0:49me of Asahi cultivar trees that have been Hansu shaded here in
- 0:53Uji. We're not allowed to disclose
- 0:55who it was, so we're not going to give any revealing
- 0:58identifiable detail, but we wanted to document and describe
- 1:03the experience of like, what is it like?
- 1:05What is Tizumi like? So Zhengjun, what were some of
- 1:08your first impressions? If someone asks you like, hey,
- 1:11what's it like to handpick tea for?
- 1:13For tensha to be turned into matcha.
- 1:15I think the first thing that I notice is the smell underneath
- 1:20this. Really floral smell coming out
- 1:23from the tea trees. There was something wonderful
- 1:25and the temperature difference as we enter underneath Hangzhou.
- 1:29It was pretty sunny and hot day today in Uji, but it was
- 1:34actually very cool and almost a little bit cold underneath
- 1:38Hangzhou. Yeah, And we had the experience
- 1:41today of being underneath Kalisha or sort of the black
- 1:46quote UN quote synthetic shading clothes, but still on a raised
- 1:49Tana so you could walk underneath them.
- 1:51And as you know, we were walking around Uji afterwards.
- 1:54You, if you really look closely, you can see the heat radiating
- 1:58up from these black Tana, from these black clothes, these black
- 2:04coverings. So the temperature difference
- 2:09was enormous between the Honzu and Kali.
- 2:12So it's much more comfortable. And actually when you're hand
- 2:15picking, you got to get pretty close to the ground.
- 2:17So sometimes you basically have to completely squat to have
- 2:21access to some of the branches and close to the earth.
- 2:26I would say it was almost like chilly.
- 2:30I had a couple moments where there was a little breeze pass
- 2:32through. It felt like I was walking into
- 2:35like a cellar, like when you walk into a really old house
- 2:38that goes deep underground or into a cave, very similar humid
- 2:44kind of, you know, 50°F type breeze and, and feeling which
- 2:50was which was really interesting and the last thing I would
- 2:52expect because it's actually quite a hot day here.
- 2:56Yeah, totally agree. And so picking the tea itself is
- 3:00very different than of course picking Chinese tea and also
- 3:04very different from picking Sancha.
- 3:05So I almost need to unlearned my previous experience picking
- 3:10other teas to pick, you know this Hong SU shaded Asahi which
- 3:13is going to be made for Tancha. So the trick is to feel the
- 3:18tenderness of all of the new grown branches and you snap the
- 3:24entire branch. You don't pick like individual
- 3:26butt or you don't pick individual leaves or you don't
- 3:29pick the, you know, one butt and two leaf or one leaf kind of
- 3:33composition. You snapped in the higher branch
- 3:36off and you know part of the stem is going to later be turned
- 3:40into a hojita and the leaves itself is going to be turned
- 3:44into ten child themselves. So that was very interesting and
- 3:48and we also learned that, you know, it's not the toughest
- 3:52leaves that are the best. It's actually the leaves that
- 3:55are underneath the bushes. They kind of get covered further
- 3:59by the, you know, leaves on the Bush so that they receive even
- 4:03less sunlight. But that tastes the best, the
- 4:05most umami. And some of them, I guess,
- 4:08receive so little sunlight that they might have a little
- 4:11discolored. They actually look pale than
- 4:12white. Yeah, some of them were were
- 4:15very white, very pale, almost yellow and these young tender
- 4:19buds that were underneath and you know, it's interesting.
- 4:21So you know, before the harvest probably about a month ago now
- 4:26and whenever you're doing 10 shot production, you remove move
- 4:28the apex bud or the bud that's on the very, very top.
- 4:32And what happens is when you the apex bud releases a hormone that
- 4:36goes all the way down that particular branch and sub
- 4:40branches that is suppressing the growth of what we call secondary
- 4:44narrow stem. Just like we have stem cells in
- 4:48our bodies that are undifferentiated tissue.
- 4:50It can basically replace any or most of the different type of
- 4:55cells in your body. And the biologist thought it
- 4:57would be confusing to call these stem cells, stem cells and
- 5:01plants, at least that's what my biology teacher has told me.
- 5:04They call them Marist stem cells and they're undifferentiated
- 5:08tissue. So basically can turn into any
- 5:09part of a plant and they're basically the lack of that
- 5:13hormone that's suppressing its growth as a signal to grow.
- 5:16So you have all these mature leaves and a little bit bud,
- 5:19little baby bud that's being hugged right in between the
- 5:22junction between the mature leaf and the stem and it starts to
- 5:26grow. So what you actually do when
- 5:28you're harvesting, you pull the branch towards you and you start
- 5:33at the base and many, many, many leaves down, nestled down there
- 5:38are these buds and sometimes they grow, then they grow into
- 5:41to tender young leaves. And that is what you pick.
- 5:46And sometimes they have the chance to grow themselves into
- 5:50having many leaves now, or sometimes it's just a a much
- 5:53smaller leaf. That's what Zhongjin was talking
- 5:56about. When you remove the entire
- 5:58branch, it's just this new tender part which sometimes can
- 6:01grow quite large. So from when you pull one single
- 6:04branch of the plant towards you, you might be able to pick your
- 6:08actual plucking motion might be anywhere from 10 to 15 plucks
- 6:12working your way all the way up. And it's even and more difficult
- 6:16when the main, the main branch that you pull has sub branches,
- 6:20because then it's like trying to, if you think like a big
- 6:23Christmas tree, you have all these branches and sub branches
- 6:26and trying to remove very specific parts of each.
- 6:29You kind of have to work in an organized way.
- 6:31So that was kind of a hamper to efficiency.
- 6:34But no, it was really cool. And as you're doing so, your
- 6:37body needs to lean all the way over towards the T bushes.
- 6:41It's a killer to my back and my waist, my lower body.
- 6:46It was none after standing there in 3 for three hours, it was
- 6:49quite painful. And if you look around, it was
- 6:53all of these 6070 year old grand grand grannies and grandpas are
- 6:58picking tea around you and they were a lot faster than me.
- 7:02So that was almost a little discouraging and.
- 7:05I think the oldest person there picking tea was like 85 years
- 7:09old. Yeah, so.
- 7:11And we were only there for three hours for about 25% of today's,
- 7:17actually. It's quite daunting.
- 7:18You look across these entire fields that are all going to be
- 7:20Tazumi and you think to yourself, Oh my word, wow.
- 7:24Just the amount of work that goes into hand picking tea.
- 7:29My back hurts too. And we were only doing it for
- 7:31three hours. And it it's it's uncomfortable
- 7:36work. I'm sure there's worse work.
- 7:38We've been knowledge workers are all our whole careers.
- 7:41So like doing this type of manual work is very new to us.
- 7:44But you know, I am so much more grateful for all of the tea
- 7:49pickers and I have actually changed my position on Hanzu
- 7:55shaded or non Hanzu shaded Tazumi matcha.
- 7:59I I'm no longer ever going to mix anything with Kazumi tea or
- 8:06let anyone else around me. No lattes, no mixed drinks.
- 8:10I don't care if like it's like Noma or 11 Madison Park or like
- 8:15La Bernadine chef making something like the amount of
- 8:19backbreaking work of actual human pain it takes to harvest
- 8:24this type of tea is, you know, I think it's painful.
- 8:27It's painful and it's just the harvesting part, you know, like
- 8:31honzu and all of these shading works goes for days and months.
- 8:36And these, you know, structures are hard to fix.
- 8:40For anyone to be able to create a home zoo structure, someone
- 8:43needs to actually physically stands on top of the tunnel and
- 8:46be able to sense where where does the skeleton of the tunnel
- 8:50is so that they can step their foot on top of it to spread the
- 8:54rice straws. And so it's actually very
- 8:55dangerous work. We've learned tea farmers in
- 8:58Wuji who had their relatives doing so and end up breaking
- 9:02their ribs because they fell down from the tunnel.
- 9:06So it's there are a lot of very challenging difficulties and
- 9:10efforts went into all of these productions of Hongzhou shaded
- 9:13some matter. Yeah, and some real human
- 9:16sacrifices. It's pretty interesting.
- 9:18There's a pretty strong case actually, especially as farmers
- 9:21age, that Hongzhou is arguably the sustainability of this
- 9:26method just from a danger and workplace hazard perspective is
- 9:33quite high. And we were doing some
- 9:36independent exploration of our own a couple days ago here in
- 9:39Uji, walking around the Shirakawa region.
- 9:42And our goal was to see like, get a real impression of the
- 9:47number of hanzu shaded plants there.
- 9:51And I'm pretty sure we saw like 70 or 80% of what's in
- 9:55Shirakawa, at least that's what we could tell from the satellite
- 9:58pictures. And we were literally just
- 10:00walking on the highway for hours, like half the day and
- 10:04looking at all of the structures and all the action going on.
- 10:09And I think we saw three, maybe 4 Shirakawa.
- 10:13And typically it was a substructure.
- 10:15And then the rest was Kylie Saw or the the black synthetic
- 10:19cheesecloth. That's a lot easier to work
- 10:21with. So the more context that we
- 10:24have, the more we realize that it's not really the end all be
- 10:27all. And it is like really the
- 10:30pinnacle of human effort, but you know, at what expense.
- 10:35And we've also heard too anecdotally that the taste
- 10:38difference isn't huge. So from a workplace hazard like,
- 10:42are we putting people's health on the line by creating such
- 10:46demand for this when when it doesn't make the world's largest
- 10:51impact in the tea, even though it's a heritage method?
- 10:54Yeah, but you know, Ryan, what, what is our position to make
- 10:58such comment? You know, like that's true.
- 11:01We we've been talking to all these farmers.
- 11:03They were talking about all of these laborers works, but also
- 11:06by the end of the day, they were like, this is traditional.
- 11:09This is how Tancha was made for hundreds of years.
- 11:12And they are spending their effort trying to preserve this
- 11:15really dying art. And, you know, really mad
- 11:18respect to all these people from, you know, different area
- 11:21in in Wuji. And we've heard that, you know,
- 11:23there are other there are places in Japan starting doing home zoo
- 11:26too. There are home zoo starting to
- 11:28be constructed in places like Yame.
- 11:31And I think this is a great news for this, you know, traditional
- 11:34art. There is something really
- 11:37magical and beautiful standing underneath that straw canopy,
- 11:41looking through all of the sunlights, kind of creating this
- 11:44little thin light spots scattering through the entire
- 11:47tea field. Yeah.
- 11:48The actual like color and like temperature of the light, so to
- 11:51speak, feel very different under the Hongzhou than it does under
- 11:56the kale shock. So like the actual spectral like
- 12:00light that is making it to the plants is different.
- 12:03You can feel it. You can see it.
- 12:05And the temperature is really obvious because, like a lot of
- 12:08these Canon shots we saw are at least three layers.
- 12:12They're actually pretty thick. And between the layers, you
- 12:15have, you know, space for air to kind of flow through and, you
- 12:18know, kind of carry a weight out of the heat being retained by
- 12:22the color of the Kalasha. It's black, takes a lot of heat,
- 12:25but for home. So it's really just one layer
- 12:28above us. And it's so much, you know,
- 12:31obviously more cool than Kalasha.
- 12:34It's kind of amazing. Yeah, that's true.
- 12:37That's true. Although I just really hope that
- 12:39this, the matcha boom doesn't put undue pressure to
- 12:44incentivize producers to do it when they just don't have the
- 12:47human capital like the actual skilled people on the site to
- 12:52not only create but maintain these structures, especially
- 12:55over the course of the season. Kind of really that that story
- 12:58of how dangerous it is really was something I never even
- 13:02considered. So, you know, there's multiple
- 13:04sides to these these things. Well, it's creates wonderful
- 13:08tasting matcha, that's true. And I will be much, much more
- 13:12grateful in the future consuming Titsumi Hong.
- 13:15So shaded Asahi or any other cultivars?
- 13:18We saw some other cultivars being planned underneath Hong
- 13:20Soo too. And it's, you know, it really
- 13:24brings people new appreciation to this wonderful drink.
- 13:27The rate of picking is also something that I really
- 13:32appreciate. I think Sam and I together with
- 13:35just a little tiny bit of help in the demoing early on about
- 13:40how to do it, we did. We, we did.
- 13:44Because these plants are in big rows.
- 13:46You're only doing half of 1 Bush at a time and then you move and
- 13:51then the other half would eventually be picked by someone
- 13:54else who's on the other side of the row.
- 13:56Kind of makes sense. And I think we move down about 8
- 13:59plants in three hours, so about four tea bushes with a little
- 14:04bit of help. And we collected about.
- 14:07Underneath 2 kilos each. Yeah, just underneath 2 kilos
- 14:11each, so between 3 to 4 kilos. And that's of leaf that has like
- 14:16these fresh stems in it. And of course it's fresh leaf.
- 14:19So there's a lot of water content.
- 14:21I forget what the percentage is, but it's got to be at least you
- 14:24you take like 20% of that weight is what ends up making it is
- 14:28matcha. Oh yeah.
- 14:28Like, you know, the shrinkage rate is about 5 times for a lot
- 14:33of these teas in general. And you got to take away all of
- 14:35these, you know, stems and things.
- 14:37So it's another 20% of, you know, decrease from that weight.
- 14:42So very little, very little tea. Actually remarkably unclear.
- 14:48If we have picked more Hansu shaded matcha now, then we have
- 14:54consumed Tizumi Hanzu shaded matcha, then we have consumed.
- 14:59I hope that we have ever in our lives that have contributed back
- 15:03the the amount of effort that the singular processing step has
- 15:07kind of wild. It is wild.
- 15:09Something also very interesting that I learned is that so I, I
- 15:13was actually quite curious about how the winds are not going to
- 15:17blow out of these straws away doing Hanzu shading.
- 15:20Because in some other parts of Uji or further out into Wazuka,
- 15:25Uji Tawala, people are constantly talking about this
- 15:28wind damage of Kanisha hitting on the tea Bush, creating some
- 15:32bruised on the tea Leafs. And all of these winds in higher
- 15:36elevation to mountains kind of sometimes destroy the, the
- 15:40shading and needs to be constantly fixed.
- 15:42So you know, I, I asked the question to our farmer today and
- 15:46they said that there's very little wind actually underneath
- 15:49that area that will do any damage or blow any of the straw
- 15:54away. So I guess there is also a
- 15:56physical or geographical limitation of where can homes be
- 16:00done because you know, if it's in some of the more mountainous
- 16:05area, it there's just really no way for you to be able to hold
- 16:09all of the rice straw together as canopy.
- 16:12That's interesting. I actually never thought about
- 16:14that until you just said that there's a lot of local
- 16:17constraints around production methods.
- 16:19That's pretty interesting. Yeah.
- 16:21So it's really a limited technique, not only being
- 16:25limited by human or, you know, laborers, but also by geography.
- 16:31That makes sense. That really makes sense.
- 16:33Something that I was very surprised by was the vibe.
- 16:37We were the only foreigners there.
- 16:39And I would have expected that when you're coordinating with
- 16:44this many tea pickers because there were a lot of people
- 16:46there. And it's the busiest time of
- 16:49year for tea farmers in general who are putting in these crazy
- 16:54hours and constantly working and I'm sure getting very little
- 16:58sleep, sacrificing for all of us so that we can consume and sell
- 17:02Matcha is that it was so calm. It was the atmosphere was also
- 17:09so positive. Everyone was laughing and joking
- 17:13and there was some chit chat. I couldn't understand it because
- 17:15I can't understand Japanese, but everyone's interaction was so
- 17:20positive and everyone was just so grateful and gracious to
- 17:24everyone there. In my mind at least, like a
- 17:27little bit more chaotic, but it really wasn't, It just felt
- 17:32really genuine in a way that I, I guess I didn't, I didn't think
- 17:37what would happen under a such circumstances.
- 17:39I, as someone like myself, I tend to get a little frazzled
- 17:43when you have to do a lot of coordination with a lot of
- 17:45different people. And there's all this time
- 17:47pressure and those, all these complexities and you have all
- 17:50these people who have various levels of experience working on
- 17:55this thing that you spent all year getting to this point.
- 17:58Because you know, most, almost all of the farmers here, the
- 18:01good farmers only harvest once per year.
- 18:04And like all of your eggs are in this one basket in a few nice
- 18:08days because they don't pick when it rains like this, all
- 18:11this. It was more like a, you know,
- 18:14community gathering for them to, you know, do some work and
- 18:17chitchat. I'm sure it was is actual work.
- 18:20Yeah, yeah. But it didn't feel like that.
- 18:22Yeah, it doesn't feel like. It all day.
- 18:23They certainly do not get that a project manager anxiety that you
- 18:27do. But yeah, it's super friendly.
- 18:31Everyone obvious obviously feels like know each other for a long
- 18:34time. And I was asking one of the
- 18:36farmers that, you know, how is the interaction between
- 18:41different gardens and farmers within Fuji?
- 18:43And this farmers told me that it's actually a super friendly
- 18:47and small community. Everyone helps each other out
- 18:50during harvest and processing. So, you know, like it's you
- 18:55really get this kind of, you know, vibe like almost like a,
- 18:59you know, Miyazaki movie from, you know, all these mountain
- 19:03villages or small villages. You know, people are friendly,
- 19:06people are nice and people are just right there.
- 19:09You know, I think a nice nice life makes me almost want to
- 19:13retired here. But actually, like, a Miyazaki
- 19:16movie is such a fantastic way of putting it.
- 19:18It almost felt like a fiction, so much so that we didn't notice
- 19:22or feel any of the pressure. And like, even the farmer who
- 19:26who invited us was like asking us.
- 19:29And, you know, if we have any questions, feel free to ask.
- 19:32And they were spontaneously explaining things as we were
- 19:35going for like, I don't know, a good, like, half hour.
- 19:38I felt so guilty. It's like there's so much going
- 19:41on. It's like it's OK, just you can
- 19:43leave us. I'm sure you're so busy.
- 19:45But they were so. Nice.
- 19:46Yeah. And, you know, this is really
- 19:48the busiest time of the year and we do not have a proper
- 19:52translator to do the communication.
- 19:54So we had to relied on my very limited Japanese and the farmers
- 19:58were like very actively using, you know, Google Translate to
- 20:02help facilitate the communication.
- 20:05So we were, you know, very grateful about that.
- 20:08And you know. And as we really convey the
- 20:11message that we really want to learn about tea farming, about
- 20:15Hitsumi, about Hunzu shading, they were being super
- 20:19transparent about all the information and the questions
- 20:22that we ask. Yeah, when you're really this
- 20:24close to the product into the farm, the amount of gatekeeping
- 20:28really just seems to vanish. And much is such a unique
- 20:31product. It's so weird in so many ways
- 20:33because it's honestly like from a really high level perspective,
- 20:38sometimes being a student of matcha, trying to learn as much
- 20:42as we can about this product, its history, its legacy and its
- 20:46nuances is that it feels gate kept a lot of times at every
- 20:50single level, including the preparation through all these
- 20:53ceremonial institutions and what all the cultural associations
- 20:58people put behind it. And like, you know, the, the T
- 21:01schools are one of the one of the more compelling or
- 21:06interesting things about the tea schools that I think they use as
- 21:09motivation for the students and access and mystery is that there
- 21:13are a lot of secret teachings. So if you are in or a sink, I'm
- 21:16multi sink. And I'm sure the other schools
- 21:18have some of this, although I know some are more transparent
- 21:20than others. There's a lot of this concept of
- 21:23secret teachings. It's kind of like you're almost
- 21:25joining a, you know, a secret society or a living legacy, but
- 21:30you can only see more and more of it until you get into higher
- 21:33and higher levels progress. So it often feels very gate
- 21:37capped. And we're also really interested
- 21:39right now learning about the wholesalers and the chashi and
- 21:42the tea blenders. The tea purveyors also feels
- 21:45very, very gate capped. We were doing some retail
- 21:49learning of how products are being positioned in Uji and
- 21:53they're also trying to see the macho shortage first hand, which
- 21:56is totally real. You can see out of stock and
- 21:59quantity limits here in Uji. We're here in May for, for
- 22:02matcha cans. And so only you can only buy one
- 22:05at a time. And we were at one store and
- 22:07they only had two products left. And I asked, they're the same
- 22:11price, but they had different names.
- 22:12And I asked what's the difference?
- 22:14And we, she, we kept hearing over and over they're the same,
- 22:18same product, same product. And I'm like, well, how can they
- 22:21be the same product? They have different names.
- 22:23And then Zhongjun helped facilitate the communication a
- 22:28bit, and we learned that one was for Motosynke, 1 was for
- 22:33Utosynke, and it's the same blend but two different poetic
- 22:38names. Different names.
- 22:39So this really adds another layer of the complexity of the
- 22:43naming scheme in in Uchi or in Matcha 1 product can literally
- 22:48be the same but having different names because their usage or
- 22:52their end customers. So they take this full circle.
- 22:55I mean, it really feels very gate captain.
- 22:58There's all of this complexity to learn when you're learning
- 23:02it, but whenever we're interacting with tea farmers, it
- 23:05just seems to vanish. If you can like have the
- 23:09opportunity to meet tea farmers and talk to them and be in the
- 23:12field. I've never had that feeling at
- 23:15all. It's like all of the stuffiness
- 23:17and associations and secrecy and complexity, it's just brought
- 23:22all the way back down to earth on from the ground, like in the
- 23:26soil, like it's just the raw thing and people are much less
- 23:29hesitant to share information. Yeah.
- 23:32And they are like much less enclosed to the outside and also
- 23:37much less enclosed to each other to all of these tea farmers.
- 23:42We have heard that and we have seen them gathering in all these
- 23:47processing facility, helping each other out to create better
- 23:51tension or better, you know, other types of tea.
- 23:53So it, there is a really, you know, strong sense of community
- 23:56that exists here in Japan in the tea world.
- 23:59So that's quite, quite the opposite there, I guess to, to,
- 24:04to some other, you know, communities that we saw.
- 24:07Yeah, absolutely. So Songjun, if anyone's
- 24:11listening, and I'm sure everyone who's a regular listener is
- 24:13definitely interested in doing this type of thing in the
- 24:16future. Like what general advice could
- 24:19we offer people who want to have experience doing hand picked tea
- 24:24either in Uji or in other places?
- 24:26And you know, how, what are the mechanics that they could do to
- 24:30go about getting opportunities like this?
- 24:33Like if we were to deconstruct, how did we end up there today?
- 24:37What lessons can we share with others that might be valuable?
- 24:41Yeah, definitely. First of all, try to build
- 24:43relationship before tea harvest season.
- 24:46There's really very little chance for you to be able to get
- 24:50a hold of a tea farmer in which that you do not know before.
- 24:54To have them respond to you and have them help you to schedule,
- 24:58you know, some time to, you know, sit down and learn, you
- 25:02know, learn your story, learn your personality, learned, you
- 25:06know, what do you want to do here and then lead you to the
- 25:08tea garden to take tea. They are like spinning around
- 25:12like tornadoes trying to get things done in midst of all
- 25:17these, you know, chaotic situation, you know, got to
- 25:21arrange different tea pickers doing different, you know,
- 25:25cultivars, got to do all the schedule of the tea processing
- 25:29right after the fresh, fresh leaves being collected.
- 25:32They are busy. So definitely try to come your
- 25:37make your visit to these tea farmers, you know during off
- 25:40seasons for the first time. Get to know them before asking
- 25:43to participate in the tea picking.
- 25:47But that's of course for Wuji and for other regions.
- 25:50If you just want to, you know, be able to stand in the tea
- 25:53garden, you know, experiencing, you know, plugging tea leaves
- 25:56off from tea bushes, there are other regions outside of Wuji
- 26:00that are much more loose. So places like, you know,
- 26:04Wazuka, places like Wuja Terwala, there's a lot of these
- 26:08farms that actually have connections with local schools
- 26:12and they ship, you know, buses, buses and buses of students to
- 26:16all these tea fields to participate in, you know, tea
- 26:20picking. So in those areas you definitely
- 26:22will have a better chance, you know, participating and you
- 26:26know, getting to learn the first hand experience, you know,
- 26:28without, you know, having too much planning in advance.
- 26:33And a lot of the producers that are in UGI proper are so
- 26:40inundated with requests to meet and with business inquiries and
- 26:45that it's not uncommon to hear stories of them just not having
- 26:50time to respond will take a a long time and a lot of
- 26:54persistence a probably to get that that first meeting and
- 26:57would be much easier in general with some form of introduction
- 27:01typically. So if you wanted to form direct
- 27:04relationships with them, the time to do that was probably a
- 27:07few years ago before they were so inundated.
- 27:10And, you know, specialty matcha was less of a thing, right?
- 27:13It was much more novel and the idea of going and and not
- 27:17selling your teachers to the wholesalers, but to someone that
- 27:19was going to sell it on as a single origin, single cultivar
- 27:22products, relatively new. But everyone's rushing in.
- 27:25It's a big land, a goldmine land rush.
- 27:28And actually we eventually want to source them some tension for
- 27:31our mills. But we're doing this purely
- 27:33academically. Everyone that we're talking to,
- 27:36we're just really there to learn.
- 27:37And then to share the content either anonymously or
- 27:40unanonymously here. I'm on this podcast to share it
- 27:43with everyone else. So also intention really
- 27:45matters. And also, so getting some
- 27:47background knowledge, walking in knowing what cultivars are and
- 27:51some, you know, a lot of the basics around much as production
- 27:56and history, et cetera, goes a really long way.
- 27:59Like no farmer wants to be be that first entry point.
- 28:04So like one of the general good pieces of advice for all
- 28:08startups and all businesses to be interesting.
- 28:11And a lot of these people who are contacting them are starting
- 28:15up a Matcha business and you can just pick a random location in
- 28:18the world and, and they're Matcha brand.
- 28:21And I could see myself if I was a tea farmer, just not being
- 28:25that interested. Like everyone says they're
- 28:28interested in preserving tradition, innovating on the
- 28:31product and showcasing to consumers, etcetera, etcetera.
- 28:34So I'm sure after you see this enough times, you're like, OK,
- 28:37well, I already sell all of my product.
- 28:39I'm already dealing with a lot of these B2B accounts and I
- 28:43don't have the capacity for anymore.
- 28:45And I'm getting like 3 emails a week like I'm probably just
- 28:49going to stop responding. And that's approximately where
- 28:51we are with all of these Rockstar famous farmers.
- 28:54And would you proper? And so I think there's a lot for
- 28:57property sourcing where you're forming direct relationships.
- 29:00The real land of opportunity is going to the places that are not
- 29:05as famous and the people that you do not see online.
- 29:08And we ourselves are not there yet, but we have heard a lot
- 29:12about other regions what are much more obscure and off the
- 29:16beaten path, both in Kilter Prefecture and other
- 29:19prefectures. And the difficult part is
- 29:22knowing who to contact. That is a game that we are still
- 29:25actively trying to figure out as well.
- 29:27And there's, it's ironic of me to say this because we're
- 29:29sitting here in Uji having that, you know, worked as a Rockstar
- 29:32uji farmer because they're all Rockstar farmers.
- 29:34But it seems like that's where all the opportunity is, where
- 29:37these people are just not getting absolutely inundated to
- 29:41the point where they just cannot respond to everybody.
- 29:43Yeah, which is definitely a resi.
- 29:45It's ultra competitive in terms of, you know, getting yourself
- 29:49in front of the line and to be able to just speak to anyone.
- 29:53But for, you know, all the other more obscured tea farmers or tea
- 29:58areas out there, it's challenging, it's difficult.
- 30:01Frequently, these people will only just have a telephone
- 30:03number sit somewhere on the newspaper or on some very
- 30:08obscured website. And that's the only way that you
- 30:10can contact them. And you need to have a car.
- 30:13You need to be able to navigate, you know, through all of these
- 30:16regions to get to them. And you need to speak the
- 30:19language because, you know, they really would not be able to, you
- 30:23know, communicate to you that easily.
- 30:26You know, a lot of them probably don't even know very much about
- 30:30how to use a cell phone properly.
- 30:32So using Google Translate might might be a little bit
- 30:35challenging to facilitate a trans, you know, conversation
- 30:38with them. Now maybe for some of the older
- 30:40farmers, yeah. So if we were to summarize, it's
- 30:43very difficult right now to meet the people in Uji proper.
- 30:46If you can, that's wonderful. Introductions definitely help
- 30:49coming in with the right amount of knowledge and there's just
- 30:52like completely by our perception by people we've
- 30:55talked to in the industry. There's a lot of opportunities
- 30:59for other regions outside of Yamai and Uji proper and Wazuka
- 31:04and Uji Tawara, there's lots of other places making great
- 31:07products. That is true.
- 31:08That is true. And we have seen some really
- 31:11young farmers previously farming other types of tea like kabu
- 31:14secha or Yokudo starting to convert or starting trying to
- 31:19learn how to farm tensha in other regions.
- 31:22So there's hope and there are probably a lot of upcoming
- 31:25opportunities in those places. Yeah, absolutely, which would be
- 31:29really great just for the specialty movement in general
- 31:31because that kind of expands the portfolio of options for
- 31:35consumers. There might be some really
- 31:37interesting terroir expressive places that are producing some
- 31:42fantastic tea. And you know, not all cultivars
- 31:45are suitable for all environments too.
- 31:47So like when you're talking about terroir and environmental
- 31:50factors and in any particular geography, you know, what
- 31:54cultivar you have is very just similar to wine.
- 31:58I think there's a lot of grapes like Pinot Noir that are just
- 32:01super ultra sensitive and really can only be grown in certain
- 32:04environments, but very similar for cultivars too.
- 32:08So, you know, some are going to be better expressed in certain
- 32:11regions than in others. Yeah.
- 32:14So expanding the horizons a bit would be super cool.
- 32:18I mean, there's probably room for 100 new Japanese specialty
- 32:23matcha companies and each focusing on a different area.
- 32:26Like there's really a lot of opportunity here.
- 32:29And quite frankly, I think that's where we're going to head
- 32:32next and focus. A lot of our effort in coming
- 32:34years is, is trying to find some of these regions that are making
- 32:40great product. Just no one talks about it or it
- 32:42gets shoved into some gigantic blend.
- 32:44And it's probably going to be good for consumers too, because
- 32:47all of the tea that's coming out of Uji is just going to get more
- 32:50and more and more and more expensive.
- 32:52All of this hand picked tea. And a lot of the tea here is the
- 32:56price is going nowhere but up for multiple reasons.
- 32:59Not like it's the shortage, it's the economic environment.
- 33:03It's the demand. It's the demand being, you know,
- 33:07uh, you know, causing things like the shortage.
- 33:09So, you know, just increasing the supply of single origin,
- 33:12single cult farty can expand beyond what's, what's currently
- 33:15out there. So, uh, it's going to become
- 33:19more of a luxury product where it's just not very accessible.
- 33:23So even as a consumer now, we should enjoy the prices that we
- 33:27have because I bet in three years they double.
- 33:29This is the rough proximate X explanation.
- 33:32And anyone in the Chinese tea world really knows this first
- 33:35hand with poor prices. I started buying tea, poor tea
- 33:41in 2013 and and I remember thinking that was kind of
- 33:46expensive at the time. And I recently went back and
- 33:50referenced some of the pour cakes that I own and I'm aging
- 33:55and they like forexed in price and they're not even like that
- 33:59special. It's if we learn from that, it's
- 34:02time to age some tension in your freezer.
- 34:04Yeah, Maybe if you have the ability to mill it fresh.
- 34:06So we should really enjoy these prices despite how high they are
- 34:11while they're still at an accessible level.
- 34:13But by expanding the horizons for these different specialty
- 34:16products to other regions, we have the ability to increase
- 34:20supply of of the transparent products.
- 34:24Or you can learn something and it's probably a great
- 34:27intersection of value and quality because it's not famous
- 34:32and because the demand will be relatively low.
- 34:35And then the hardest problem that that brand is doing is the
- 34:38consumer education piece, which brands are doing anyway, right?
- 34:43Like most of the matcha companies that are selling
- 34:46product are selling product to even B to B or most of them are
- 34:49selling it to people who don't necessarily know a whole lot
- 34:52about about matcha. So place like eat a town, which
- 34:55is pretty close to Uji, I think it's an hour or two away, could
- 34:58be someone's Uji, you know, without all the legacy and
- 35:02history. But you know, from a product
- 35:04perspective, you know, telling the story of the matcha there
- 35:07and the different terroir and micro growing environments.
- 35:10But there's all sorts of interesting stories to be told
- 35:13to any consumer who's just coming in so fresh.
- 35:17Not everyone needs to be taught uji, uji, uji early on and
- 35:21yummy, yummy, yummy. It's at some point, it's no
- 35:26longer going to be where value lies, which is where the vast
- 35:29majority of people drinking matcha, you know, if they care
- 35:32about the price. And it definitely matters.
- 35:34And we would like to see higher quality options that are
- 35:37artisanally produced in the mid range.
- 35:40That can be someone's quote, UN quote, everyday cup of coffee,
- 35:45you know, the product that's Tazumi or Asahi, or you know,
- 35:48from cultivars that are difficult to grow like Asahi or
- 35:51like Siamidori. There's just not much of them.
- 35:55They're very special, finite experiences for people to have.
- 35:59Yeah, absolutely. We are.
- 36:03We keep talking about this so much a shortage, but, you know,
- 36:06as we were even, you know, roaming through Uchi, there are
- 36:10a lot of these land waiting just to be farmed.
- 36:13There are a lot of these abandoned land.
- 36:15There are a lot of these tea farms that are not necessarily
- 36:19making tensha. There are a lot of potential for
- 36:23Japan to produce much, much more delicious tea in the future.
- 36:27And it's, you know, just waiting for us to discovered.
- 36:31Yeah, we on our walk through Shirakawa, walking from, from
- 36:36Uji, you know, center Uji, like right near the train station and
- 36:40branching out. It was really interesting.
- 36:42We saw a lot of abandoned tea plantations.
- 36:46There was a completely abandoned tea plantation two blocks away
- 36:50from the Oklahoma Tea Garden, the very famous one from Horati
- 36:54Shiman. If you walk to, if you go into
- 36:57the Horati Shiman retail store, I don't know if they have it
- 37:00anymore, but they did the first time I went.
- 37:02There's this little map and there's this little hike that
- 37:05you can. It's not really a hike.
- 37:06It's like a 10 minute walk up the hill where you can see one
- 37:11of their gardens. So we, you know, we popped up
- 37:13there and started our long adventure there.
- 37:16And then two blocks over, bam, abandoned tea field.
- 37:19And it's pretty obvious that it's abandoned.
- 37:21There's weeds everywhere. Nothing's kept.
- 37:24All of the structure shading structures are completely
- 37:27dilapidated. All falling apart.
- 37:30Things are getting rustic. It's clearly a abandoned tea
- 37:33field. Arguably from one of the single
- 37:37greatest plots of land to grow in the entire.
- 37:41World. Yeah.
- 37:42It's like you see a abandoned grape vineyard right next to
- 37:45Romani County. It's kind of, you know, hard to
- 37:49understand. So it's also the sad reality
- 37:52here is that there's just not enough, you know, labor, there's
- 37:56not enough people here to continue to support this
- 37:59industry. It's just, you know, a lot of
- 38:01people who really care and work very hard.
- 38:03But you know, there's still a succession problem here, even
- 38:05though this region's getting all of this recognition, which is a
- 38:09little bit concerning to see considering the probably what
- 38:13our astronomical prices they they could charge for tea made
- 38:18here if they wanted to. And then tis obviously things I.
- 38:21Would have if I could really just letting go my mind sitting
- 38:26right there using them. Not everyone's so money
- 38:29motivated. OK, I want delicious tea.
- 38:33I want to buy more than one person per can dry and.
- 38:36That's true. That's so real, that is painful.
- 38:39It's very unfortunate. So, uh, that was our adventure
- 38:43there. Nuji picking tea.
- 38:44I think this is a fine place to stop.
- 38:46Umm, We're going to continue to record umm throughout our
- 38:49experiences here in Japan for the 2025 harvest.
- 38:53Umm, and do these real time takes or near real time takes.
- 38:58Umm, so you get our raw impressions of what it was like.
- 39:02And, uh, thank you so much for listening and we'll see you on
- 39:04the next one. See you.
- 39:05Stay tuned.