Latest / Old Ways New Days / At the Garden Gate - episode 7

Transcript

At the Garden Gate - episode 7 · Old Ways New Days

0:00
SPEAKER_00: Hey listeners, this is Kayla.
0:02
SPEAKER_00: I'm just letting you know that due to technical difficulties while Nell and I were recording and doing the live TikTok, we ended up, or rather, I ended up deleting 90% of the episode that was meant for today.
0:26
SPEAKER_00: So instead, you will be getting the Garden Gate episode that we normally reserve for Monday, today, Thursday, October 29th.
0:37
SPEAKER_00: So I hope you enjoy, and uh Nell and I will have to re-record uh the episode, um, and we will be breaking it up into multiple parts as it was extensively long.
0:51
SPEAKER_00: So I hope you enjoy, and thanks for listening.
0:57
SPEAKER_00: So, welcome friends! You've caught us between chores.
1:00
SPEAKER_00: The watering cans are empty, the chickens have settled in for the evening, and there's still a little dirt beneath our fingernails.
1:06
SPEAKER_00: I'm Kayla.
1:07
SPEAKER_01: And I'm Nell.
1:09
SPEAKER_01: You found us at the Garden Gate, a place where gardeners gather, neighbors swap stories, and no question is too simple to ask.
1:17
SPEAKER_01: Every week we'll pull a real gardening question from the online gardening community and bring it here to the fence line.
1:26
SPEAKER_01: Together we'll sort through the advice, separate gardening myths from proven practices, explore the science, rediscover the old ways, and share the practical knowledge that's helped generations of gardeners grow food and confidence.
1:43
SPEAKER_01: So pull up a bucket, lean on that fence.
1:46
SPEAKER_01: The garden is always teaching us something.
1:48
SPEAKER_01: Let's see what today's visitor has brought to the garden gate.
1:57
SPEAKER_00: Welcome back, gardeners, growers, and curious green thumbs.
2:02
SPEAKER_00: The gate is open, and we're glad you're joining us here at the Garden Gate.
2:05
SPEAKER_00: The Garden Gate.
2:06
SPEAKER_00: Part of Old Ways New Days, where we're learning to grow smarter, work with nature, and make the most of whatever space we have.
2:14
SPEAKER_00: Today we're talking about autumn.
2:16
SPEAKER_02: Ooh!
2:17
SPEAKER_00: I know.
2:18
SPEAKER_00: For some gardeners, autumn means the last tomatoes are coming in, the squash is curing, and the garden is slowly winding down.
2:26
SPEAKER_00: For others, it's the perfect time to plant trees, establish native flowers, divide certain perennials, and tuck spring flowering bulbs into the soil.
2:36
SPEAKER_00: And in some parts of the world, autumn doesn't mean frost at all.
2:40
SPEAKER_00: It might mean the beginning of a rainy season.
2:43
SPEAKER_00: A welcome back from um a welcome break from summer heat, or the perfect opportunity to start a vegetable garden.
2:51
SPEAKER_00: So if you've ever wondered whether you're supposed to be putting your garden to bed or planting something new, this episode is for you.
3:00
SPEAKER_00: We're going to talk about growing zones around the world, understanding your first autumn frost, protecting delicate plants, and knowing when to plant native species, spring bulbs, and fruit trees.
3:12
SPEAKER_00: Because here's the thing: the calendar tells us what month it is, but our local climate tells us what our garden needs.
3:20
SPEAKER_00: So let's get our hands dirty.
3:22
SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
3:24
SPEAKER_00: Hi Nell.
3:25
SPEAKER_00: Hi, Kayla.
3:27
SPEAKER_00: It's been a long evening.
3:28
SPEAKER_00: Yes, it has.
3:30
SPEAKER_00: Sorry, that last episode was a doozy.
3:33
SPEAKER_01: A doozy and a half.
3:35
SPEAKER_01: And then some.
3:36
SPEAKER_00: I know.
3:37
SPEAKER_01: There's a lot of information I packed into that.
3:40
SPEAKER_01: You sure did.
3:41
SPEAKER_01: It could have easily been a three-parter.
3:44
SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I know.
3:47
SPEAKER_00: Mm-hmm.
3:49
SPEAKER_00: Alright.
3:50
SPEAKER_00: So uh if people didn't notice, we have a new sound deck, so we should be still.
3:57
SPEAKER_01: You should be able to hear me better.
3:59
SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
3:59
SPEAKER_00: Better, better, better.
4:02
SPEAKER_01: Alright.
4:03
SPEAKER_01: Okay, so first let's talk about growing zones.
4:07
SPEAKER_02: Yes.
4:08
SPEAKER_01: If you've ever bought a seed packet or looked up a gardening article, you've probably encountered a growing zone.
4:17
SPEAKER_01: You might see something like zone 4, zone 7, zone 10.
4:21
SPEAKER_01: But what does that actually mean?
4:25
SPEAKER_01: Well, in the United States, the USD-8 plant hardiness zone map is one of the most commonly used gardening references.
4:35
SPEAKER_01: It divides regions into zones based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature.
4:43
SPEAKER_01: In simpler terms, it helps us understand how cold a location typically gets in winter and which perennial plants are more likely to survive those conditions.
4:57
SPEAKER_01: Each main zone is divided into two half zones, designated A and B.
5:04
SPEAKER_01: So for example, zone 5A is colder than zone 5B.
5:12
SPEAKER_01: But this is important.
5:14
SPEAKER_01: A hurdiness zone is not a complete gardening calendar.
5:20
SPEAKER_01: It does not tell you exactly when to plant your tomatoes.
5:24
SPEAKER_01: It doesn't tell you when your first frost will arrive.
5:28
SPEAKER_01: It doesn't tell you how long your growing season lasts, how much rain you'll receive, or whether your garden sits in a sheltered courtyard or an exposed field.
5:41
SPEAKER_01: Two gardens in the same hardiness zone can have very different growing conditions.
5:47
SPEAKER_01: One might be on a sunny slope with excellent drainage, the other might sit in a low spot where cold air settles and frost arrives early.
5:59
SPEAKER_01: That's why we need to look beyond the number.
6:03
SPEAKER_00: So growing zones around the world.
6:06
SPEAKER_00: While the USDA map is useful, gardeners around the world use other systems and local climate information.
6:14
SPEAKER_00: In the United Kingdom, for example, gardeners may encounter the Royal Horticultural Society's hardiness ratings, which help describe how well plants tolerate the cold.
6:24
SPEAKER_00: In Australia, local climate conditions, regional plant guides, frost risk, rainfall patterns, and seasonal differences all play important roles in determining what grows well.
6:36
SPEAKER_00: And in many tropical and subtropical regions, the distinction between wet and dry season may be much more useful for planting or planning than a winter hardiness zone.
6:49
SPEAKER_00: In some places, the challenge isn't surviving freezing temperatures, it's surviving extreme heat, humidity, drought, heavy rainfall, or seasonal storms.
7:00
SPEAKER_00: Then there's the southern hemisphere.
7:03
SPEAKER_00: When gardeners in much of North America are preparing for winter, gardeners in Australia, New Zealand, and parts of South America are moving towards spring.
7:13
SPEAKER_00: The seasons are reversed, so autumn planting advice needs to be interpreted according to your local growing season.
7:20
SPEAKER_00: This is why we always recommend checking the gardening advice guidance for your specific region.
7:26
SPEAKER_00: Don't automatically follow a planting calendar just because it says September or October.
7:31
SPEAKER_00: Instead, ask yourself three questions.
7:34
SPEAKER_00: What are my typical winter temperatures?
7:37
SPEAKER_00: When does my soil usually become too cold, dry, wet, or frozen for planting?
7:44
SPEAKER_00: How much time does this particular plant need to establish before difficult weather arrives?
7:51
SPEAKER_00: Those questions will take you much further than a zone number alone.
7:57
SPEAKER_01: So now let's talk about the first frost.
8:01
SPEAKER_01: For gardeners in colder climates, the first autumn frost can feel like a deadline.
8:07
SPEAKER_01: You might be watching the forecast, looking at your tomatoes, and wondering whether you have another week or only another night.
8:15
SPEAKER_01: But not all frost is the same.
8:18
SPEAKER_01: A light frost may damage tender leaves while leaving roots and more cold tolerant plants unharmed.
8:25
SPEAKER_01: A hard freeze can cause much more extensive damage, especially when temperatures remain below freezing for a prolonged period.
8:35
SPEAKER_01: And the forecast temperature isn't necessarily the exact temperature your plants will experience.
8:42
SPEAKER_01: Cold air can settle in low areas.
8:46
SPEAKER_01: Raised beds may cool differently from the ground around them.
8:50
SPEAKER_01: A sheltered wall can create a warmer microclimate, while an exposed balcony can become colder and windier than the surrounding neighborhood.
9:01
SPEAKER_01: This is one reason experienced gardeners pay attention to their own garden rather than relying entirely on regional averages.
9:12
SPEAKER_00: So understanding those frost dates, you may see references to the average first frost date for your area.
9:19
SPEAKER_00: That date is an estimate based on historical weather patterns, not a promise.
9:26
SPEAKER_00: The frost date is often calculated using a probability.
9:30
SPEAKER_00: For example, the date by which a certain percentage of historical years have experienced frost.
9:36
SPEAKER_00: That means frost could arrive earlier than expected or much later.
9:41
SPEAKER_00: Use those dates as planning tools, not guarantees.
9:45
SPEAKER_00: As autumn approaches, keep an eye on local forecasts.
9:49
SPEAKER_00: If you have particularly tender plants, don't wait until the last possible evening to decide what to do with them.
9:56
SPEAKER_00: And remember that frost and freezing temperatures are not the only seasonal hazards.
10:01
SPEAKER_00: Cold wind, waterlogged soil, sudden temperature swings, and prolonged winter dryness can also damage plants.
10:11
SPEAKER_01: So which plants need the most attention?
10:15
SPEAKER_01: Some of the most vulnerable plants include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and other tender warm season vegetables, basil and other frost-sensitive herbs, tropical houseplants that spent summer outdoors, tender annual flowers, container grown plants whose roots are more exposed to temperature changes, young plants that haven't had much time to establish, plants that are only marginally hardy in your climate.
10:50
SPEAKER_01: On the other hand, many established perennial plants, cool season vegetables, and locally adapted native species can tolerate autumn cold much better.
11:01
SPEAKER_01: Don't assume that every plant needs to be rescued from the first chilly night.
11:07
SPEAKER_01: Know what you're growing.
11:10
SPEAKER_00: Protect delicate plants before the frost arrives.
11:14
SPEAKER_00: So let's say the forecast is calling for a frost tonight, and you've got a garden full of plants you'd rather not lose.
11:22
SPEAKER_00: What can you do?
11:24
SPEAKER_00: The first thing is to decide which plants are worth protecting and which are naturally coming to the end of their season.
11:31
SPEAKER_00: You don't necessarily need to save every annual vegetable plant.
11:36
SPEAKER_00: Sometimes the most sensible option is to harvest what you can and let the season finish.
11:42
SPEAKER_00: But if you have a healthy pepper plant, a late crop of tomatoes, or a favorite plant you'd like to keep alive, a few simple measures can help.
11:52
SPEAKER_01: Cover plants properly.
11:55
SPEAKER_01: Frost cloth, horticulture fleece, or a lightweight fabric cover can help protect plants during a cold night.
12:03
SPEAKER_01: Old sheets can also work for some garden situations.
12:08
SPEAKER_01: The important thing is to cover the plant before temperatures drop and allow the cover to reach the ground, where it can help trap warmth released from the soil.
12:20
SPEAKER_01: Whenever possible, use hoops or supports so the cover doesn't rest directly on delicate foliage.
12:29
SPEAKER_01: Avoid letting plastic sheeting touch the leaves because the areas where plastic contacts the plant can become especially vulnerable to cold damage.
12:40
SPEAKER_01: And remember to remove or open the cover when temperatures rise the following day so plants don't overheat.
12:50
SPEAKER_01: For repeated cold nights, make sure the cover is secure enough to withstand wind.
12:57
SPEAKER_00: Bring containers indoors.
12:59
SPEAKER_00: Container gardening gives us a major advantage.
13:04
SPEAKER_00: If your basil is growing in a pot, bring it indoors before a frost.
13:08
SPEAKER_00: If you've been growing citrus, tropical plants or other frost-sensitive species outdoors for the summer, start preparing them for their winter location before temperatures become dangerous.
13:20
SPEAKER_00: Check plants for pests before bringing them inside, and gradually adjust them to lower indoor light levels when practical.
13:28
SPEAKER_00: A sudden move from bright outdoor sunlight to a dim room can stress plants, even if the temperature is comfortable.
13:36
SPEAKER_00: Water thoughtfully.
13:38
SPEAKER_01: Plants experiencing drought stress can be more vulnerable to cold damage, so don't allow the garden to become excessively dry as autumn approaches.
13:50
SPEAKER_01: However, watering is not a magical frost shield.
13:54
SPEAKER_01: If soil is already saturated, additional water may cause other problems.
14:00
SPEAKER_01: And wetting foliage immediately after or and wetting foliage immediately before a freezing night is not a reliable protection method for ordinary home gardens.
14:14
SPEAKER_01: Water the root zone as needed.
14:17
SPEAKER_01: Taking your soil conditions and local forecast into account.
14:22
SPEAKER_00: Mulch the roots.
14:24
SPEAKER_00: Mulch can help moderate soil temperature and reduce moisture loss.
14:28
SPEAKER_00: It is especially useful for protecting perennial root systems and reducing the effects of repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
14:36
SPEAKER_00: But timing matters.
14:37
SPEAKER_00: In cold climates, avoid piling insulating mulch around plants too early while the soil is still warm, particularly where rodents might shelter.
14:47
SPEAKER_00: Once the ground has begun to cool or freeze, an appropriate layer of mulch can help protect the root zone, keep mulch away from direct contact with tree trunks and the crowns of plants that are susceptible to rot.
15:00
SPEAKER_01: So, what about plants you'd like to save for next year?
15:05
SPEAKER_01: Some plants can be overwinterized indoors or in protective spaces.
15:11
SPEAKER_01: Others can be propagated from cuttings.
15:15
SPEAKER_01: Some tender bulbs and tubers, such as dahlias, can be lifted and stored in regions where they won't survive winter outdoors.
15:24
SPEAKER_01: But this depends entirely on the plant species and your climate.
15:30
SPEAKER_01: Research the needs of each plant before deciding whether to leave it in the ground, bring it inside, or store it dormant.
15:39
SPEAKER_01: The goal isn't to keep every plant alive at any cost.
15:43
SPEAKER_01: The goal is to protect the plants that are worth protecting while allowing the rest of the garden to move naturally into its dormant season.
15:55
SPEAKER_00: Autumn is for more than cleaning up.
15:58
SPEAKER_00: One of the biggest mistakes gardeners make is thinking that autumn means everything has to be cut down, pulled out, and made tidy.
16:07
SPEAKER_00: But a garden isn't a living room, and nature doesn't clear every stem and leaf the moment summer ends.
16:14
SPEAKER_00: Seed heads can feed birds.
16:16
SPEAKER_00: Hollow stems can provide overwintering habitat for some insects.
16:21
SPEAKER_00: Leaf litter can shelter small organisms and return organic matter to the soil.
16:27
SPEAKER_00: Standing vegetation can protect the soil from erosion and provide structure through winter.
16:33
SPEAKER_00: Of course, diseased plants, invasive species, and materials that harbor serious pest problems may need to be removed or managed appropriately.
16:42
SPEAKER_00: But a healthy garden doesn't need to be stripped bare.
16:45
SPEAKER_00: Consider leaving some native flower stem standing until spring, especially where they provide seed or habitat.
16:53
SPEAKER_00: Leaves fallen Excuse you.
17:00
SPEAKER_00: Leave fallen leaves in suitable garden beds or move them to a compost pile or a leaf mold area if they're smothering small plants or covering a lawn.
17:10
SPEAKER_00: And before you begin cutting everything back, ask yourself, is this plant finished for the year or is it still providing something useful?
17:19
SPEAKER_00: That one question can change how you prepare your garden for winter.
17:24
SPEAKER_01: So when should you plant native plants?
17:27
SPEAKER_01: Now let's talk about native plants.
18:12
SPEAKER_01: Autumn can be an excellent time to plant many native perennials, shrubs, and trees, especially in regions where the soil remains workable and there is enough time for roots to establish before severe winter conditions arrive.
18:29
SPEAKER_01: Cooler weather can reduce heat stress and water loss from leaves, while soil that is still warm enough can support root growth.
18:39
SPEAKER_01: But there is no universal date for planting natives.
18:43
SPEAKER_01: The right timing depends on your region, the species, your soil, and whether you're planting seeds, bare root plants, or established nursery growing plants.
18:56
SPEAKER_00: Native plants aren't all the same.
18:58
SPEAKER_00: A native wildflower may have very different needs from a native shrub or tree.
19:03
SPEAKER_00: Some plants establish readily when planted in autumn.
19:07
SPEAKER_00: Others are best planted in spring, particularly in regions with harsh winters, short autumns, or poorly drained soils.
19:15
SPEAKER_00: Some native seeds need a period of cold, moist conditions before they germinate.
19:20
SPEAKER_00: This process is called cold stratification.
19:24
SPEAKER_00: For certain species, autumn sowing outdoors allows winter weather to provide that natural treatment.
19:30
SPEAKER_00: But not every native seed needs cold stratification, and not every seed should simply be scattered over the soil.
19:38
SPEAKER_00: Some require specific planting depths, light conditions, or moisture levels.
19:43
SPEAKER_00: Read the instructions for the species you're growing and use regional native plant resources whenever possible.
19:50
SPEAKER_01: Choose plants that belong in your region.
19:54
SPEAKER_01: The word native is important.
19:57
SPEAKER_01: A plant native to one part of the world isn't automatically native to another.
20:03
SPEAKER_01: Even within a country, native plant communities can vary dramatically from one region to another.
20:11
SPEAKER_01: A prairie wildflower, a woodland perennial, and a coastal plant may all have different requirements.
20:19
SPEAKER_01: Choose plants native to your local ecological region when possible and consider the conditions in which they naturally grow.
20:29
SPEAKER_01: Does the plant prefer full sun or woodland shade?
20:33
SPEAKER_01: Dry sandy soil or moist ground?
20:37
SPEAKER_01: Open prairie or a forest edge.
20:40
SPEAKER_01: Matching plants to their natural conditions generally gives you a better chance of success.
20:47
SPEAKER_01: And it also helps create more useful habitat for the wildlife that evolved alongside those plants.
20:55
SPEAKER_00: So, how to plant your native perennials in autumn?
20:58
SPEAKER_00: If autumn planting is appropriate for your species and location, start by choosing a healthy plant and preparing the site.
21:06
SPEAKER_00: Remove aggressive weeds, loosen compacted soil where necessary, and avoid making unnecessary changes to the soil if the plant is adapted to lean or specialized conditions.
21:18
SPEAKER_00: Plant at the same depth the plant is growing in its container unless species-specific instructions say otherwise.
21:25
SPEAKER_00: Water thoroughly after planting, then continue watering as needed while the roots establish.
21:31
SPEAKER_00: Don't assume autumn rain will always be sufficient.
21:35
SPEAKER_00: A dry autumn can be just as challenging for new plants as a dry summer.
21:40
SPEAKER_00: Once the ground begins to freeze, the planting window may close for that species.
21:46
SPEAKER_00: And here's a helpful rule plant for the roots, not for the calendar.
21:51
SPEAKER_00: You want the plant to have enough time and suitable conditions to establish before winter stress arrives.
21:58
SPEAKER_01: Spring bowl.
22:00
SPEAKER_01: Bulbs.
22:00
SPEAKER_01: Planting tomorrow's flowers today.
22:05
SPEAKER_01: Now for one of Autumn's most satisfying jobs.
22:08
SPEAKER_01: Planting spring flowering bulbs.
22:11
SPEAKER_01: Like tulips, daffodils, crocuses, hycinthias, hyacinth, hyacinth, snowdrops, alliums, and many other bulbs and bulb-like plants that can bring color back to the garden after winter.
22:32
SPEAKER_01: These plants give us something to look forward to.
22:36
SPEAKER_01: We plant them when the garden may look tired and brown, trusting that months from now they'll emerge and flower.
22:45
SPEAKER_01: But bulbs have their own timing requirements.
22:49
SPEAKER_01: Many spring flowering bulbs need a period of winter chilling to flower properly.
22:56
SPEAKER_01: They also need enough time in suitable soil to establish roots before the ground freezes.
23:04
SPEAKER_00: So when should you plant them?
23:06
SPEAKER_00: The answer depends on the bulb and your climate.
23:09
SPEAKER_00: In many temperate regions, autumn is the main planting season for spring flowering bulbs.
23:15
SPEAKER_00: In colder climates, gardeners often plant bulbs early enough in autumn for roots to establish before the soil freezes.
23:23
SPEAKER_00: In milder climates, planting may happen later once soil temperatures have cooled.
23:28
SPEAKER_00: Tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths can have somewhat different planting windows, so check the guidance for the particular varieties you're buying.
23:39
SPEAKER_00: If you're in a warmer winter region, not every spring bulb will perform well outdoors.
23:46
SPEAKER_00: Some varieties need a reliable period of cold and may require a special treatment or may simply be unsuitable for your climate.
23:55
SPEAKER_00: Don't assume a bulb that thrives in cold northern garden will behave the same way in a subtropical one.
24:02
SPEAKER_01: So how to plant a spring bulb.
24:05
SPEAKER_01: Start by choosing healthy bulbs that are firm and free of soft rotten areas.
24:12
SPEAKER_01: Look at the plant label for the correct planting depth spacing, sunlight requirements, and drainage needs.
24:20
SPEAKER_01: As a general guide, many bulbs are planted at a depth of roughly two to three times their own height, but the exact requirement varies by species.
24:32
SPEAKER_01: Plant them with the growing point facing upwards.
24:36
SPEAKER_01: If you're not sure which end is up, check the bulb's shape or consult the packaging.
24:44
SPEAKER_01: Most common spring bulbs prefer soil that drains well.
24:48
SPEAKER_01: Waterlogg soil can cause bulbs to rot.
24:51
SPEAKER_01: After planting, water if necessary to settle the soil, especially if conditions are dry.
24:58
SPEAKER_01: Then mark the area.
25:00
SPEAKER_01: Trust me, your future self will appreciate this.
25:06
SPEAKER_01: There is nothing quite like accidentally digging up the bulbs.
25:10
SPEAKER_01: You carefully planted because you forgot they were there.
25:16
SPEAKER_01: You've done it?
25:16
SPEAKER_00: I've done it.
25:17
SPEAKER_00: Weird! I know.
25:19
SPEAKER_00: Well, and then when I look at my garden after they've flowered, I forget to mark them so that when I'm digging up weeds, I'm not accidentally digging up the bulbs.
25:29
SPEAKER_00: So I have to remember next year.
25:32
SPEAKER_00: Mark them when they flower.
25:34
SPEAKER_01: So you didn't mark them this year?
25:36
SPEAKER_01: No, I did not.
25:39
SPEAKER_00: Woman, what am I gonna do with you?
25:42
SPEAKER_00: The other tip that I would give, um dust all of your bulbs with cayenne pepper because bulbs are a squirrel's favorite food.
25:54
SPEAKER_00: And so if you actually want them to come up and not lose 50 or more percent of them.
26:00
SPEAKER_01: Or even probably sprinkle, like before you cover them back up, just sprinkle cayenne pepper on them.
26:07
SPEAKER_00: Um yeah, I mean I've tried it both ways.
26:10
SPEAKER_00: I've tried like dusting, like putting the bulbs in a bowl and dusting them with uh cayenne pepper, and I've also sprinkled it on the dirt one rain and then it's gone, and then they get dug up and I find holes.
26:22
SPEAKER_01: Weird.
26:23
SPEAKER_01: I know.
26:24
SPEAKER_01: Hmm.
26:24
SPEAKER_01: So if anybody has any recommendations of keeping squirrels away from your bulbs, other than cayenne pepper.
26:34
SPEAKER_01: Comment.
26:35
SPEAKER_00: That the rain won't wash away.
26:37
SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
26:37
SPEAKER_00: Alright, so what if you only have containers?
26:40
SPEAKER_00: You can grow spring bulbs in pots too.
26:44
SPEAKER_00: Choose containers with drainage holes and use a suitable potting mix.
26:48
SPEAKER_00: Containers can dry out and freeze more rapidly than the surrounding ground, so their placement and winter protection matter.
26:55
SPEAKER_00: In very cold climates, you may need to shelter pots or use other appropriate measures to protect the bulbs.
27:02
SPEAKER_00: And remember that not all summer flowering bulbs are winter hardy.
27:06
SPEAKER_00: Tender plants such as dahlias and gladioli often need different treatment from hardy spring flowering bulbs.
27:13
SPEAKER_00: Check the needs of each plant before leaving it outdoors for winter.
27:17
SPEAKER_01: Now we're going to talk about fruit trees.
27:21
SPEAKER_01: So, fruit trees like apples and pears and plums and cherries and peaches and all the other fruit trees gardeners dream about planting.
27:33
SPEAKER_01: Autumn can be an excellent planting season for many fruit trees, especially in regions where mild to moderate winters, suitable soil conditions, and enough time for roots to establish.
27:47
SPEAKER_01: But in colder regions, spring planting may be the safer choice for some species and situations.
27:55
SPEAKER_01: This is particularly important where young trees may be exposed to severe winter temperatures, drying winds, or repeated freeze thaw cycles before they've established themselves.
28:09
SPEAKER_00: So bare root versus container-grown trees.
28:13
SPEAKER_00: You may encounter two main types of nursery trees.
28:16
SPEAKER_00: Bare root trees are solid while dormant, with their roots exposed rather than surrounded by a container of soil.
28:24
SPEAKER_00: Container-grown trees have an established root ball inside a pot.
28:29
SPEAKER_00: Bare root fruit trees are generally planted during the dormant season with exact timing varying by climate and nursery guidance.
28:37
SPEAKER_00: Container-grown trees may offer a wider planting window, but autumn or spring is often easier than the heat of summer.
28:45
SPEAKER_00: Don't plant into frozen, waterlogged, or otherwise unsuitable soil just because the calendar says it's planting season.
28:56
SPEAKER_01: Choose the right fruit tree for your climate.
29:00
SPEAKER_01: This is where growing zones become especially important.
29:05
SPEAKER_01: Many fruit trees need a certain amount of winter chilling to flower and produce fruit reliably.
29:12
SPEAKER_01: Different varieties have different chilling requirements.
29:16
SPEAKER_01: Some varieties are better suited to colder regions, while others are developed for milder winters.
29:23
SPEAKER_01: A tree can survive the winter and still fail to produce a good crop if its chilling requirements aren't met.
29:31
SPEAKER_01: Likewise, a variety that thrives in cold climate may struggle where winters are too mild and summers are too hot.
29:41
SPEAKER_01: Before buying, check whether the variety is suitable for your local hardeness zone and climate, whether it needs a compatible pollination partner, whether it has an appropriate winter chilling requirement, whether your soil drains well enough, how large the tree will become at maturity, whether it is resistant to common diseases in your region.
30:08
SPEAKER_01: A little research before purchasing can save years of frustration.
30:14
SPEAKER_00: Alright, planting your fruit tree.
30:16
SPEAKER_00: Choose a location with suitable sunlight, soil drainage, and room for the mature tree.
30:22
SPEAKER_00: Nothing worse than having to trim it down because there's no room.
30:27
SPEAKER_00: Dig a hole wide enough to accommodate the roots without bending them unnaturally.
30:32
SPEAKER_00: Avoid planting too deeply.
30:34
SPEAKER_00: The root flare should be positioned appropriately near the soil surface, and the graft union on a grafted fruit tree should remain above the soil according to the nursery's instructions.
30:46
SPEAKER_00: Backfill it with the evacu excavated soil, settle it gently, and water thoroughly.
30:52
SPEAKER_00: Use a tree guard if rabbits or other animals might chew the bark.
30:56
SPEAKER_00: Mulch around the tree to conserve moisture and moderate soil temperatures, but keep the mulch away from the direct contact of the trunk.
31:05
SPEAKER_00: And don't forget to water during dry autumn weather.
31:09
SPEAKER_00: A newly planted tree still needs moisture even when its leaves have fallen and it appears dormant.
31:15
SPEAKER_00: If you live in a region with harsh winters, check with your local extension service or fruit growing authority before deciding whether autumn or spring is the best for your particular tree.
31:26
SPEAKER_01: So what about gardens' warm climates?
31:29
SPEAKER_01: Okay.
31:30
SPEAKER_01: We don't want this conversation to leave gardeners in warmer regions out.
31:35
SPEAKER_01: No, we don't.
31:36
SPEAKER_01: So if your winters are mild and your soil rarely freezes, autumn may be one of the best times of year to grow food.
31:47
SPEAKER_01: Cool season vegetables may thrive when the worst summer ha heat has passed.
31:53
SPEAKER_01: You may be able to plant leafy greens, peas, carrots, radishes, bruschias, and other crops suited to your local autumn and winter conditions.
32:08
SPEAKER_01: Native plants and fruit trees may also have different planting windows from those in colder climates.
32:16
SPEAKER_01: In some tropical and subtropical areas, the wet season, dry season, and local rainfall patterns matter more than a traditional frost date.
32:27
SPEAKER_01: But don't assume that warm weather means planting anything at any time.
32:34
SPEAKER_01: Heat can stress young plants, heavy rains can cause rip problems, and seasonal drought can make establishment difficult.
32:45
SPEAKER_01: Your local planting calendar is still your best friend.
32:49
SPEAKER_01: And if you're gardening in the southern hemisphere, remember that the seasons are reversed relative to the northern hemisphere.
32:59
SPEAKER_01: Use local autumn advice rather than simply copying a northern hemisphere calendar.
33:06
SPEAKER_01: The principle remains the same everywhere.
33:09
SPEAKER_01: Choose the right plant at the right time for the conditions you actually have.
33:18
SPEAKER_00: Alright, your autumn checklist.
33:20
SPEAKER_00: So let's bring everything together with a simple checklist you can use in your own garden.
33:26
SPEAKER_00: First, check your local frost forecast and typical first frost dates.
33:32
SPEAKER_00: Second, identify which plants are tender, which are cold hardy, and which are naturally finishing their growing season.
33:41
SPEAKER_00: Third, harvest what needs to be harvested and decide which plants are worth protecting.
33:47
SPEAKER_00: Fourth, bring frost-sensitive container plants indoors or move them to an appropriate sheltered location.
33:55
SPEAKER_00: Fifth, considered whether autumn is a suitable time to plant native perennials, shrubs, or trees in your region.
34:04
SPEAKER_00: Sixth, check your spring flowering bulb varieties and plant them during the recommended local window.
34:12
SPEAKER_00: Seventh, research fruit trees before purchasing them.
34:15
SPEAKER_00: Pay attention to hardiness, chilling requirements, pollination, drainage, and the mature size of the tree.
34:22
SPEAKER_00: Eighth, leave some healthy stems and seed heads standing where they provide habitat or food, while removing diseased or invasive materials appropriately.
34:33
SPEAKER_00: And finally, keep a garden journal.
34:35
SPEAKER_00: Write down when your first frost arrived, which plants survived, which ones struggled, which bulbs did you plant, and where.
34:44
SPEAKER_00: And where, especially the where.
34:47
SPEAKER_00: Which plants went, which trees went into the ground, what worked, and what would you change next year?
34:54
SPEAKER_00: Over time, that notebook becomes one of your most valuable gardening tools because it records what actually happens in your garden, not just what a general planting guide predicts.
35:07
SPEAKER_01: So the garden is already preparing for spring.
35:12
SPEAKER_01: There's something wonderful about autumn gardening.
35:16
SPEAKER_01: We plant bulbs that we won't see flower for months.
35:20
SPEAKER_01: We plant trees that may take years to produce their first sustainable harvest.
35:27
SPEAKER_01: We establish native plants that may need several seasons to mature.
35:33
SPEAKER_01: We protect roots and prepare the soil.
35:36
SPEAKER_01: Even when the garden looks as though it's slowing down.
35:41
SPEAKER_01: And we learn to think beyond the immediate reward.
35:46
SPEAKER_01: Not every gardening tasks produce something we can harvest this week.
35:52
SPEAKER_01: Some tasks are investments in next spring.
35:56
SPEAKER_01: Others are investments in the next five years.
36:00
SPEAKER_01: And some are investments in the wildlife, soil, and wider ecosystem that make our gardens possible.
36:10
SPEAKER_01: That's a useful way to think about the changing seasons.
36:14
SPEAKER_01: The garden isn't necessarily ending when summer ends.
36:19
SPEAKER_01: It's changing its priorities.
36:22
SPEAKER_01: And we can change ours too.
36:26
SPEAKER_01: We can stop asking only what can I harvest right now?
36:31
SPEAKER_01: And begin asking, what can I do today that will make this garden healthier next year?
36:38
SPEAKER_01: Maybe the answer is planting bulbs.
36:41
SPEAKER_01: Maybe it's putting a fruit tree in the ground.
36:44
SPEAKER_01: Maybe it's protecting a tender plant from frost.
36:49
SPEAKER_01: Maybe it's planting a native perennial.
36:52
SPEAKER_01: Or maybe it's simply leaving a few seed heads standing and allowing the garden to provide food and shelter throughout the winter.
37:04
SPEAKER_01: Whatever you choose, remember that gardening is a long conversation with the place where you live.
37:14
SPEAKER_01: Every season gives us another opportunity to listen.
37:19
SPEAKER_00: So as we wrap up today's episode, we want to leave you with one simple reminder.
37:25
SPEAKER_00: You don't need to do every autumn gardening task.
37:29
SPEAKER_00: You don't need a huge garden.
37:31
SPEAKER_00: You don't need to plant dozens of bulbs or fill your yard with fruit trees.
37:37
SPEAKER_00: Start with what makes sense for your space, your climate, and your goals.
37:43
SPEAKER_00: Learn your growing zone, and but don't stop there.
37:47
SPEAKER_01: Learn your frost patterns.
37:50
SPEAKER_01: Learn your soil.
37:52
SPEAKER_01: Learn which plants belong in your region.
37:55
SPEAKER_01: And learn when to let the garden rest and when to give it a little help preparing for the seasons ahead.
38:04
SPEAKER_00: Because the best garden isn't the one that follows somebody else's calendar perfectly.
38:10
SPEAKER_00: It's the one that responds to the place where it grows.
38:13
SPEAKER_01: Thank you for joining us at the garden gate.
38:17
SPEAKER_01: Until next time.
38:18
SPEAKER_01: Keep observing, keep experimenting, and keep growing.