Latest / The Nerdy Photographer Podcast / 163 - The Art of Light and Melanin: Photographing Black Subjects Beautifully
Transcript
- 0:04Casey Fatchett: I try adjusting the contrast a little bit
- 0:07Unknown: more right there. Oh, hello. Welcome to the nerdy
- 0:11photographer podcast. I'm your host. Casey Fatchett. In
- 0:14addition to providing informative and entertaining
- 0:16photography related content, I also go on adventures with the
- 0:19crew of the starship Fibonacci. Right now, we're working on
- 0:21customizing some of our cameras so that we can capture images of
- 0:25the residents of the planet that we're on, because most of the
- 0:28imaging equipment can't display their true colors. In fact, most
- 0:31of our cameras can't detect them at all. I have increased
- 0:35sensitivity in the ultraviolet and infrared ranges by 15%
- 0:41thanks. Fib in this episode of the podcast, I'm speaking with
- 0:44regular guests on the show, Leighton da Costa about how to
- 0:47best photograph black skin. Leighton provides some helpful
- 0:50tips to make sure you're capturing your melanated
- 0:53subjects in all of their beauty. All that after the break, we are
- 0:59locked on at optimal sensitivity. Excellent.
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- 3:07Leighton DaCosta: well, that, I mean, I would say, in some ways,
- 3:10that would be good, but it's kind of funny now that we're
- 3:13seeing a very kind of, how can I put it this way, a weird
- 3:19situation going on where a lot of commodity and luxury items
- 3:26have the same industry pressures as government expenditures,
- 3:35government purchases, as well as Corporate America. So you know,
- 3:42it's very rare. Do you have where the government's not
- 3:44spending money? Real Estate's not spending money. Luxury items
- 3:49are still getting bought, but I think they're getting bought on
- 3:54FOMO more than anything else, absolutely. And it's funny
- 4:00because, and I know we haven't started yet, but it's funny that
- 4:03when you go into as we're going into WPPI season, and everything
- 4:07else which kind of relates to what we want to talk about,
- 4:13Annie, Annie at WPPI as the keynote speaker, which is a huge
- 4:19Deal, like, like in I think she's probably, you know, not a
- 4:24wedding photographer, somebody who has shot weddings, but not a
- 4:28wedding photographer like, you know, a gentleman. Now, I think
- 4:30she's probably the biggest draw that they've had at WP vi for
- 4:36probably about 20 years.
- 4:38Casey Fatchett: Well, as we were talking about before, I think
- 4:41that the numbers had gone down. So that might be an attempt to,
- 4:44like, try to boost.
- 4:47Leighton DaCosta: Well, I hope so, because I think right now,
- 4:50we are going through the change that we saw, probably in 2008 to
- 4:582012 Where photography truly made the digital photography
- 5:06transition. And it went from being, it became democratized.
- 5:11So it went from being, I mean, it's still technically is, but
- 5:15it went from being an old white man industry to being a young
- 5:23talent that was now, and especially in the wedding and
- 5:25portrait side, where the customers and the providers
- 5:29started the match, you know, and you know, we talked a couple
- 5:34weeks ago when I was up there for our watches, and I like to
- 5:39go on some of the watch forums to see how a lot of women are
- 5:43don't like how the watch companies are marketing towards
- 5:47women and and I had to, you know, my thought is watch
- 5:53companies market towards their buyers. A majority of buyers of
- 5:58watches are men, right, even when they're buying for women.
- 6:05So therefore, instead of making a smaller version of a
- 6:08Submariner, they make a pink version of a Submariner, or they
- 6:13make put like diamonds and sparkly on it, because that's
- 6:16what women like, right? That's what kids think that women like.
- 6:20That's what they think, right? And so I think when you start
- 6:24going into the photography side, back in 2008 most of the
- 6:28customers of consumer photography were women. They're
- 6:33the ones that arrange the family photos. They're the ones that
- 6:36arrange the wedding photos. They did a lot of that stuff. And now
- 6:40for the first time, you had women who were on the other side
- 6:43of that table providing that service. Yeah. And so now we get
- 6:47fast forward to now you have, we've gone beyond getting, I'm
- 6:54not saying it doesn't happen, but we've gone beyond getting
- 6:58cameras for Christmas and not starting a photography business
- 7:01to where we were at a point to where everybody's utilizing AI
- 7:04to some point. And photography is not about just the product,
- 7:11because I can go on Google Gemini and making some great
- 7:14headshots, regardless of what we photographers would like to
- 7:17think, right? Yeah, but yes, it doesn't look like me, but it
- 7:22looks like a good resemblance of me. And the what you're now
- 7:28trying to pay a photographer for is to capture your essence,
- 7:32which the AI can't capture. Yeah, and so, and that's why I
- 7:35said it would become democratized to where, if we're
- 7:39not using the new technology, we get canceled out because we
- 7:44don't have that business. We're artists, right? We're artists.
- 7:47And so we don't have that business acumen to say, Okay,
- 7:51how do we leverage and exploit so which I will go to in there.
- 7:56How I leverage, exploit dark skin when I was in Charleston,
- 8:01South Carolina, that's a unique area of the US, because they
- 8:07have a lot of people who are not too too many generations removed
- 8:14or diluted from slavery. And if you ever hear about the Gullah
- 8:18Geechee, the big thing about the geeky most of those slaves came
- 8:21from the Ogeechee River in Savannah. And the big thing
- 8:27about those slaves were that they were from Western Africa, I
- 8:30want to say around the Ghana area. Somebody can correct me if
- 8:32I'm wrong, but they were well versed in growing rice and
- 8:38indigo and tea and things that you do not equate America
- 8:44plantations with is rice, indigo and tea, right?
- 8:47Casey Fatchett: Yeah, not necessarily something that you
- 8:50thought of like as staple crops for the South, right?
- 8:53Leighton DaCosta: And in Charleston, they have tea
- 8:54plantations, indigo plantations, black rice was used to make
- 8:58Indigo, right? So it was used as a dye. And if you know anything
- 9:03about rice production, like in Asia, with all the technology
- 9:09that is out there now, it's really still artisanal, where
- 9:16your family passes down this tribal knowledge of how deep and
- 9:20how wet and everything that the soil has to be. So in
- 9:24Charleston, you have a lot of people who have this very dark,
- 9:28dark pigment. And as we spoke about before, there's undertones
- 9:31in that skin. And so too long to read, but the TLDR of a
- 9:38situation of why I think photographers are having even a
- 9:41harder time now shooting dark skin is because photographers
- 9:48are shooting more and more in color that it sees. That's my
- 9:53hot take. That's my Stephen A Smith hot take, right? They're
- 9:56shooting more and more in color than they ever. Have to wear
- 10:00black and white photography is different. And think about this
- 10:0530 years ago, you know, you had the difference between Ilford
- 10:10film and Fuji film as far as which ones you wanted to use for
- 10:14black and white photography, especially if people use sports
- 10:16and just different tones that were inside of that, compared to
- 10:19using Kodak film for portraits and stuff. And it's hard to
- 10:25believe that 30 years ago we were doing that. It's hard to
- 10:27believe that 30 years ago, payphones were normal, right?
- 10:32And I think that more so than anything else, is because while
- 10:37we use histograms, we use histograms for exposure of the
- 10:41image, and not, not necessarily, for exposure of the subject. And
- 10:46so when your histograms are based off of 15 to 18% grayscale
- 10:50white, yeah, and you get something that's 85% grayscale
- 10:56white, right? Because we say it's white, not black, right? So
- 11:00grayscale, white, the nuances that come with that is, yeah, I
- 11:07might be exposed for it, but the color doesn't look right, or
- 11:10it's too dark, or whatever. Yet we can shoot Harry Connick Jr.
- 11:17Is he still alive?
- 11:17Casey Fatchett: Yes, okay,
- 11:19Leighton DaCosta: all right. Who isn't known to have the best
- 11:24hand in the world, but it's known to be a very snappy
- 11:28dresser that will be in a tux while he's playing the piano.
- 11:31I'm thinking, that's right, he plays a piano, right? And we
- 11:34shoot the lapel like you can't see it, because this is going to
- 11:38be audio, but I have a black hoodie on, and you can see the
- 11:41difference of the shade of the inside of the black hoodie
- 11:44compared to the outside of the hoodie of the outside. Yeah,
- 11:47there's a difference. And this camera, which is a DJI camera
- 11:55that I'm shooting on, perfectly exposes for that. But yet we,
- 11:57with our technologies, don't do that, and we make an excuse
- 11:57that, oh, I don't know how to shoot black people. To shoot
- 11:58black people. Black people are harder to achieve. But that
- 12:06being said, the question I would ask, what I wanted to shoot back
- 12:10to you is, because you threw me out some questions, and I look
- 12:13reviewed through them, right? Why? Why? After 1015, years of
- 12:21us having this conversation now, other than being able to shoot
- 12:25in color all the time, is it still hard for photographers to
- 12:30and with the Sony, which does a great job in computational
- 12:34photography inside of the camera, and Fuji, which does a
- 12:38great job of computational photography inside the camera,
- 12:43not to mention iPhones and stuff like that. Why do we still have
- 12:44such a hard time exposing exposing for dark skin? I think
- 12:50because I mean, and as a white guy who has photographed lots of
- 12:54people of varying symptoms and a lot of time at weddings, I'm
- 12:58dealing with people who are wildly different skin tone. So
- 13:02I'll have somebody who's one, you know, you have one partner
- 13:06who's a very light skin tone, somebody who's a very much
- 13:10darker skin tone, is because of what you're talking about there.
- 13:12Like you don't think about the undertones for one thing that
- 13:16the camera technology is not, obviously not considering that
- 13:20it's, thinking about things in terms of highlight and, you
- 13:26know, like and black, like it's either black or white, that it's
- 13:31very you can I always talk about this as, like, some thing that
- 13:35people don't think about when they're exposing for is like,
- 13:39they don't think about a metering method that they're
- 13:43using. They're not thinking about like, Oh, am I using spot
- 13:45metering? Am I using, you know, center weighted? Am I using,
- 13:49like, an overall but they're like, Oh, why is it that my, you
- 13:55know, in this shot that I took in a wedding, people are
- 14:00dancing. Everything is really under is really overexposed, or
- 14:06underexposed, or whatever. And I'll find like, Well, it's
- 14:09because a big like, what metering mode we're using, and a
- 14:12big chunk of this is white, like somebody with a white shirt,
- 14:16like they took their jacket, their jacket off, their touch
- 14:18jacket off, and they got a white shirt on, and they stepped in
- 14:21front of the camera during, like, on the dance floor, and
- 14:26that's like 60% of the frame is somebody's like, shoulder got in
- 14:31the way with their like, purely white shirt. So everything else
- 14:35is not exposed properly, or the flash being blue, right, coming
- 14:41up, right? The flash is still it's kind of funny that we talk
- 14:43about mono blocks and whether or not Godox is enough white or
- 14:48compared to pro photo, compared to Braun color or whatnot. But
- 14:51the the flash tubes are still blue, right? The Flash tubes are
- 14:54still coming out. Added this ice, I want to say a. 35 or 3000
- 15:02Kelvin type blue that comes out. So we're, it's something that
- 15:07you just said that I think, and I know we got to get started,
- 15:12but
- 15:13Casey Fatchett: I think we, I think we started. Welcome to the
- 15:16nerdy photographer podcast, everybody. I'm your host, Casey.
- 15:20We're here with Leighton da Costa. We're into it. I think, I
- 15:24think we've already started having the discussion. So I
- 15:26think,
- 15:26Leighton DaCosta: Okay, well, so I will at least say this. Hey,
- 15:30this is LD, Leighton da Costa, give you a drop for your thing.
- 15:35Your intro. This is LD, late in the Costa. And I am a semi,
- 15:41Semi. Semi I can use that word, semi retired photographer down
- 15:47here in Florida, because that's what people do in Florida. We
- 15:48semi semi retired, which means that as long as, uh, I have, as
- 15:52long as I have a camera and there is a tax advantage, I will
- 15:54still be shooting, which is what we do here in Florida, tax
- 15:59advantage, as opposed to you people in New Jersey,
- 16:04Casey Fatchett: What do you mean, you people.
- 16:07Leighton DaCosta: What do you mean? You people? So as we talk
- 16:13about it's something that you just said. So three things I
- 16:16think that really affects us on how we shoot, just people,
- 16:22different shades of people, and things that we're not doing
- 16:26anymore, that we used to do regularly to 1015, 2030, years
- 16:31ago. And once you learn how to do these, you never had the
- 16:36problem on being able to expose or shoot or whatnot. Metering
- 16:40the light. How are we metering? Are we, like you said, are we
- 16:43doing incidental metering? Are we doing spot meter, right? And
- 16:47one of the things with, you know, in studio, if you have a
- 16:53light meter, you usually are going to actually shoot, you
- 16:57know, the incidental light. You're actually going to shoot
- 16:59what the light is actually receiving, what the subject is
- 17:01actually receiving, as opposed to what's reflecting off the
- 17:03subject exposure. There's something I used to have when I
- 17:07used to do weddings, especially down here in Florida, outdoor
- 17:10weddings, where the sun changes every 15 minutes, and it's
- 17:14angle, and you either have the benefit of shooting in broad
- 17:19High Noon from 10 to two where, where the shadows are harsh, but
- 17:24the color temperature is consistent, right? Or you're
- 17:27going to shoot in from three o'clock to five o'clock and
- 17:31beyond, where it gets warmer and warmer and warmer as you go on.
- 17:36And so the challenge that comes back is that back in the days we
- 17:40used to have this thing, which they still make, they still
- 17:42sell, call an expo desk. And the big thing about the expo dist
- 17:47serve two purposes. It one, it helped you to expose for this,
- 17:51for the scene based off of the light that was actually coming
- 17:54from the light source. But it also allows you to do custom
- 17:58white balance right in camera, which was a huge difference,
- 18:02especially even if you're shooting RAW, which 10 years ago
- 18:07with the, I want to say it's the Sony A 7r which was really the
- 18:12big, big, big dig, in my opinion, Digital Camera pioneer,
- 18:18and the 35 millimeter frame space. And we all know that Sony
- 18:25had awful, awful color science coming out of the camera in the
- 18:30beginning, compared to Canon and Nikon. But, and I say digital
- 18:36space, the mirrorless digital space. But the thing about it
- 18:41is, if you could do custom white balance, the once that was set
- 18:47you were shooting weddings, that you could edit pretty much in,
- 18:50you know, 40 minutes to two hours right after the wedding.
- 18:54And then the third thing, exposure, color exposure. So
- 18:57both lighting exposure and color exposure metering, which will
- 19:00lead you to visual perception. I think when we look at somebody
- 19:09who is dark skin, we may like how they their skin looks, but
- 19:16we may not like how their skin looks on them in frame or in
- 19:20picture. So therefore we add different colors, different
- 19:24undertones, different pigments or whatever, because we didn't
- 19:27capture it right in what their essence was, and we want to
- 19:32expose them in the same ways that we expose, you know, white
- 19:38people right now, that being said, it wasn't until I went
- 19:43overseas that I realized that guys that work with a lot of
- 19:48younger to Asian women, which which shoot very, very their
- 19:51skin tends to be a lot more paler, right by by societal
- 19:56design, I'll say that, or people like. Uh, what's your question?
- 20:01Name is it? Live, not live, Tyler. Live. Tyler is fairly
- 20:04pale too, but I'm thinking of Anne Hathaway, yes, very pale.
- 20:10That it is harder for them to shoot color for them as well,
- 20:14because they go below that, that that 15% threshold, right,
- 20:18right? And people have hard times lighting them. Yes, I'm
- 20:22saying it's so and then they make them look ghostly and
- 20:24ghastly at the same time. And they make black folks look
- 20:27either ash, like red, orange or very, very ashy or whatever, to
- 20:34compensate for that.
- 20:35Casey Fatchett: Okay, I think here's a question for you, like
- 20:38in this is not a question that we have discussed beforehand,
- 20:42the like, something I noticed a lot in the is the use of
- 20:48different the colored, like gelled light started more I feel
- 20:55like, with people using that with With black skin models, you
- 21:01get, like the very orange in, in cyan type of thing, then, then
- 21:08with so that you'd have like, those highlights in the skin to
- 21:15bring up, like to bring that that, like, not have just like A
- 21:19white light on someone with darker skin tones, then with
- 21:25very pale models, because, like, the very pale models would just
- 21:28come across as, like, you're just yellow, you're just yellow,
- 21:31right?
- 21:32Leighton DaCosta: Like you don't, they don't usually use
- 21:33CTOs with, with, with very pale subjects, right? And that you
- 21:40know, if, or if they do, they use them as accent lighting, not
- 21:43for the main front line. If you know that, I love that fire and
- 21:49ice type, you know, blue and red gels, or whatever, with dark
- 21:53skin because of how a, you know, the specular highlight that
- 21:56still comes off of that. I know that's an old term, specular
- 21:59highlights. I haven't heard that in a while, but I
- 22:01Casey Fatchett: was just thinking it, and I was like,
- 22:06Leighton DaCosta: but that I still think, and I'm going to
- 22:11use her for an example. Hopefully I can use her, because
- 22:14I think right now in the education space, using off
- 22:19camera lighting and different creating light of creative
- 22:23lighting techniques. Ms Adler, right? That she has been very,
- 22:28very deliberate in how she teaches lighting, especially for
- 22:35different skin tones, right? And I think she does a pretty
- 22:39exceptional use now, I don't know how much of that comes from
- 22:45the area where she grew up versus the area where she lives,
- 22:50right? And when I say that is this, I grew up in Florida, New
- 22:56York, well, Brooklyn, New York, and I'm Jamaican, right? So I
- 23:03tend to see dark skinned people all the time. If you're from,
- 23:07and I can't remember where, exactly where she's from, from,
- 23:10like, if you're from, like, Ithaca and you grew up near the
- 23:13Finger Lakes or the cat skills, you're not seeing so many
- 23:20differentiators and different shades of black, right? And so
- 23:23it's like when you go shop for chocolate, there's a difference
- 23:24between milk chocolate and dark chocolate, but even when you go
- 23:25into dark chocolate, you start going 4570 8588, 90, 92% cacao.
- 23:38Yeah, right. There's a difference in just that texture
- 23:41and the shape. So I think when you start coming back to that
- 23:46other side of hey, they're using gels, they're using this.
- 23:51They're using light. And sometimes that stuff was used to
- 23:53compensate for not being able to light, and sometimes it's used
- 23:58to enhance, if we use it as a recipe, we use it as cooking.
- 24:02Are you using salt and pepper to enhance the flavor of the dish?
- 24:09Are you using salt and pepper and hot sauce to mask a bad dish
- 24:16or badly a poorly cooked dish? Going back to when we were
- 24:20talking about the flash, that blue bulb of flash that comes
- 24:24out the old wedding trick is when you're shooting and all of
- 24:29a sudden, some guest, or whatever has shot their their
- 24:34flash, right while you're shooting? Well, that's gonna be
- 24:38black and white, yeah? Because right,
- 24:42or you've got those the like, the DJ lights, like, like, come
- 24:48on all of a sudden, and you're like, Oh, that's a black and
- 24:50white one,
- 24:51exactly. And, and I think that's kind of one of those things to
- 24:55where. And I'll throw one last thing. So earlier, I said that
- 25:01we market to our customers. When I was in Charleston, like I
- 25:06said, a lot of my customers were dark skin, and it wasn't even so
- 25:10much that, oh, only black photographers can shoot dark
- 25:13skin. Even a lot of black photographers were had a hard
- 25:16time shooting dark skin, right, because, because a lot of us
- 25:21were not taught some of the old traditional ways of how to light
- 25:25and shoot people. In general, we weren't taught and given the
- 25:28bowling ball challenge. I don't know if you where you take a a
- 25:32black bowler ball or a spear or a bottle or something, and to be
- 25:36able to use and adjust, to be able to shoot that ball or that
- 25:39black sphere, that orb perfectly, because that orb
- 25:42represents a space, and then you can take a dark bowling ball and
- 25:47a red bowling ball and a white bowling ball and get the get
- 25:53similar exposures to them. They, you know, we and then we weren't
- 25:58taught a cheat code. So those are things that I still
- 26:01encourage people to learn, like I said, if you don't grow up
- 26:05with that perception of what different textures and skin
- 26:09tones and whatnot look like, and to where they become just
- 26:13normal, to where you can look at Naomi Campbell and be like, Oh
- 26:19my gosh, her skin is so beautiful. And it's to look at
- 26:22Anne Hathaway and still look and say, oh my gosh, your skin is so
- 26:25beautiful, right? You know, it's like dark chocolate milk, milk,
- 26:29you know, whatever it is. I think that's where it becomes
- 26:32hard to shoot those extremes. And what we consider cultural
- 26:35extremes,
- 26:36Casey Fatchett: well, you bring up that, like getting used to
- 26:43it, or having the exposure to, like, what are the
- 26:46misconceptions that people go into, like, trying to, like,
- 26:50light, darker skin tones, like, what is it? What are like, the
- 26:54big misconceptions that people just like, go in and think,
- 26:57Okay, well, I can do this. I haven't done it before, but,
- 27:00like, I can I know how to I know how to do lighting, right? What
- 27:04would you say? Like, the biggest misconception is
- 27:07Leighton DaCosta: so lack of practice. Like I said the
- 27:09bowling ball thing, lack of practice or not having a canned
- 27:15lighting setup to start from before doing certain people in
- 27:22general, right? So it's like, if I am a photographer that always
- 27:28puts my lighting source on the open side that I'm shooting,
- 27:33right and as opposed to shooting from the closed sides and
- 27:36having, you know, to give this cinematic look, well, I may
- 27:41always have, and you see me with my light on there, I may always
- 27:43have my male subject looking into the light the same way I
- 27:48would have my female subject looking in the light, not
- 27:50realizing that it softens both of them. And for certain
- 27:56subjects, I may want one to look more assertive or aggressive or
- 28:02gender terms, masculine versus feminine, right? And, and to me,
- 28:07that's the same thing with lighting. To say, Oh, I can't
- 28:10use harsh light. I can't use a soft box, or I have to use this.
- 28:17We get away from the actual subject lighting, the actual
- 28:19subject itself, right? To just to say, hey, we're going to
- 28:24create a look. And in this day and age where editing has been
- 28:32very, very democratized by software, right? That software
- 28:37is pre programmed with the visual perception of the
- 28:41programmer, of what a person should look like, exposure, skin
- 28:47tone and color. Yeah. So some software, I'm not going to pimp
- 28:53any software out. Some software is better at that than others.
- 28:59Some software has had to go through iterations to get to a
- 29:01certain point now. And once again, if it's garbage in,
- 29:06garbage out, if it's not balanced, to go in, that
- 29:11software is just going to take those, the information on the
- 29:14pixels, and say, Hey, based off of this, this is what I think it
- 29:17should look like. And then you have somebody, just like I said,
- 29:20using the DJI right now, I know that if I shot this on my Nikon,
- 29:23exact same if I'm looking at it, I think I am right at 3300
- 29:30Kelvin, the DJI has put my white background almost perfectly.
- 29:37White gives a little blue tone on it, but it has me almost like
- 29:42an incandescent tone to where I think I'm being exposed right
- 29:45around 6000 Kelvin ish, and I know that that's not what it
- 29:50looks like. And I've noticed this when I've shot watches and
- 29:53I'm using my co branded. Light setup from one of the
- 30:03photography stores in New York, right, which gives you the
- 30:11benefit of local service. So right, that way, I don't, I can
- 30:15still save that for a possible sponsor, or we don't. But
- 30:18anyway, I know that it's model lamps are warmer. I just now
- 30:25recently got a set of apertures right which the coolness that
- 30:32perfect 5500 makes such a huge difference in shooting video and
- 30:39on even how the DJI picks up because of the quality of the
- 30:45light. And last, oh, I forgot about that, the quality, quality
- 30:49of the light source, if we're like because we are such a
- 30:54visual, we want it to look right, that even sometimes if we
- 31:00get the skin to look right, the rest of the image looks off,
- 31:06because the quality of the light source is not on. The subject
- 31:08may not be as great as what we're trying to achieve. You
- 31:13know, you probably went to the same old school thing where we
- 31:17used to call it stroboscopic lighting, and we were taught
- 31:22that stroboscopic lighting was not used to light a subject.
- 31:26Stroboscopic lighting was used to freeze motion of a subject,
- 31:31and the secondary effect of it is that it illuminates, right?
- 31:34Yeah. But we all had hot lights back then too, as well, so that
- 31:38was the big thing, right? I think now we're at a spot now to
- 31:43where perceptionally, to get people to look like how they
- 31:50look like in real life, and a better version of them has to be
- 31:54the driving force on shooting and exposing folks better. And
- 32:00we can't use excuse. Shoot a black like I said. Shoot a black
- 32:03tablecloth. Shoot salt and pepper on a black tablecloth.
- 32:07Shoot a bottle of wine, a bottle of red wine, which is going to
- 32:11have the nuance of red but still. Photograph very, very
- 32:15dark, right? It's one of those things where hot take right here
- 32:20again,
- 32:22Casey Fatchett: they're coming fast and furious, folks,
- 32:25Leighton DaCosta: black coffee is really brown. Yeah, right.
- 32:29And that nuance of shooting spilt coffee on a white
- 32:37tablecloth next to a glass that's reflecting filled with
- 32:43black coffee and still making black coffee look black, but the
- 32:49foam look brown. And if you ask most people to do that, they can
- 32:54do that. So why do they have such a hard time shooting a dark
- 33:00person in any other environment wherein, oh and I love this a
- 33:07dark person wearing bright yellow or orange clothing
- 33:13getting that effect. And dark people like wearing because not
- 33:19only does the red or the blue or the orange or whatever pop out,
- 33:22but it usually makes your skin pop as well, and capturing that
- 33:26essence. And I think, like I said, it was going back to when
- 33:31I was talking about the software and being democratized editors,
- 33:32as we go shoot overseas editors a lot of times, or graphic
- 33:38editors who look at the entire image and not and they just want
- 33:42to make sure the skin looks smooth and everything else. The
- 33:47software makes the skin look brown. It adds those yellow
- 33:50tones into it, and it's not trying to keep it neutral. So,
- 33:55like I said in the photographer will always get blamed. I have
- 34:00seen
- 34:02the person that's the keynote speaker at WPI. I can say, Okay,
- 34:06I've seen Annie shoot Serena different ways, and her skin
- 34:14would come, sometimes come out absolutely beautiful and
- 34:16gorgeous, and then other times it's like, that's not the same
- 34:20Serena that I know, right? Whereas, man Jeff and the
- 34:29photographer down in I have his name is Jeff, and his last name
- 34:34is blowing my mind right now, and like, two minutes after we
- 34:40have this conversation, I would actually rely no remember his
- 34:44name so I am Oh, there we go. Jeffrey Salter, amazing
- 34:51photographer in the Miami area, a lifestyle, I would venture to
- 34:58say fashion, but a very much a lifestyle. Style photographer
- 35:02who hits every time he shoots, and when it comes to color,
- 35:09color grading, the essence of someone, even with gels and
- 35:14everything, the dude hits. I mean, every time he shoots,
- 35:19every time he aims, he hits the target. But he grew up, I
- 35:24believe he grew up in the Miami area, former Navy photographer.
- 35:28Did, I think he did, also combat photography. So he's used to
- 35:33doing things on the fly. He is a phase one photographer. So you
- 35:38don't see too many phase one photographers these days. But
- 35:42one thing that impressed me about Jeff is he is not a sports
- 35:48photographer, but he has a ton of covers on Sports Illustrated.
- 35:52He shoots good portraits. So he shoots good portraits, and you
- 35:56can't have bad color.
- 35:58Casey Fatchett: Yeah, on the cover. See, there's the thing.
- 36:03We discussed this a little bit. I think it was part of the
- 36:06reason we decided to get together and record this.
- 36:10Because a lot of like, Annie Leibovitz is getting a lot of
- 36:13flack for her pictures of Michelle Obama and people saying
- 36:19like, she has not like, like black people, she doesn't know
- 36:22how to like, like black skin. And I have this feeling we
- 36:27talked about this, it's like, not that she doesn't necessarily
- 36:30know how to light it, it's that she doesn't know how to edit it,
- 36:33or whoever's editing it, the colors always come out. I feel
- 36:39like that's it's not necessarily in the lighting. It's the it
- 36:44feels like they're like tones that are applied afterwards.
- 36:50Maybe I'm wrong, but it's a it just like there's a portrait of
- 36:56Simone Biles that she had like that I feel like has the
- 37:00tonality of like, a climpt like or some other like, painterly
- 37:07looking tones to it. But it doesn't do any favors to Simone
- 37:15Biles like it actually like it makes her, her skin tone look
- 37:20like, there's no like, there are no undertones, there's like it,
- 37:24but it's like, it's this look of like the visual tone that we are
- 37:29going for does not, is not complimentary to the subject,
- 37:34Leighton DaCosta: if that makes so, because I just had to pull
- 37:36up. But you know, I know you're talking about the one that was
- 37:39on Vogue, or the back, shot right. And I think the challenge
- 37:44is, is this, in 2020, ish, the 2000s the 21st Century. And I'm
- 37:58not saying shooting, I'm saying presenting, a lot of
- 38:01presentation in the effort of being timeless and classic is
- 38:06still being shot in the way that 1970s Rolling Stone would shoot,
- 38:11right and that, that time you're talking about, there is a lot of
- 38:18colorism inside of the industry, one of The biggest things back
- 38:21in the 80s, when a movie that, you know, we all love, coming to
- 38:25America, right, where there is there is certain, and I'm not
- 38:30going to hash it up, but there were certain co stars that were
- 38:34said that Eddie Murphy wouldn't have at the time, right, because
- 38:38of that, the colorism. So when you look at the summer on bio,
- 38:41so I'm looking at it now. I think the reason why we see the
- 38:46color issues, because I want to throw out there is a Vogue
- 38:52cover. Let me see if I can pull this up real quick with LeBron
- 38:57and Gisele bunching very different skin tones. It is but
- 39:04it's perfection. It is perfection. You I mean, if you
- 39:11pull it up, you cannot get better. You cannot get better
- 39:18exposure. And it has green, it has the brown skin has the
- 39:22black. Giselle is perfectly edited and shadow LeBron is
- 39:26perfectly edited and shot. It is the perfection of what you would
- 39:31expect in any shot to look like in studio. But on the same note,
- 39:41it is also flattering to both of them, even though I want to say
- 39:50there's some tones there, there are some tones there, societal
- 39:54tones there, but you look at the cover of the. With Kanye and his
- 40:01former wife, you now see there is like it becomes color grading
- 40:09because Kanye is fairly dark skin, they have made Kanye brown
- 40:15skin and added a blue color grader to give it a timeless
- 40:22look. So the reason why I say this is that some of what stands
- 40:28out, where we pick out and choose on what Annie does and
- 40:31Annie doesn't do, is the posing and presentation of the
- 40:36subjects, and when it comes to posing and presentation of dark
- 40:41and brown skinned subjects. It is very much more subjective
- 40:48than esthetically pleasing for everything else. When she does
- 40:55group photos, in my mind, one of the best photos like the iconic,
- 41:02iconic. And I have it somewhere around here, where I have the
- 41:06shots of Vogue, a book around here, and I'm trying to see if I
- 41:10have it in the office, and it has the Dream Team, versus or
- 41:13not, say the Dream Team, the political Dream Team of George
- 41:16Bush's cabinet. And you turn the page, and it has the Fahrenheit
- 41:23911 Michael Moore crew, but everybody in that George Bush
- 41:32cabinet, Condoleezza Rice, Colin Powell, all those people are
- 41:37light lit perfectly and color graded perfectly, and they're
- 41:42shot on film, so they're not even shot being shot. Being shot
- 41:44digitally, right? They're shot on film. I think what she what
- 41:48she puts out, is what people want to what the people who buy
- 41:54Vogue and buy Vanity Fair and buy Rolling Stones and those
- 42:00editors want to see, because if you look at I just pulled up
- 42:03one, if you look up Viola Davis and Vanity Fair, same cover,
- 42:11beautiful, dark, beautifully lit. Another back shot, totally.
- 42:17But you know what she's showing, the muscles and the physical
- 42:22attributes of this person. There is a lot of undertones that are
- 42:29usually used with black subjects, in their physical
- 42:36prowess, not their achievement prowess. And you can even go
- 42:41back to Marion Jones. There's a reason why, when Andy shoots the
- 42:49body issues, yeah, they look great because they become very
- 42:55subjective. And this is not, this is not a chastisement, as
- 42:55much as is an observation. Well, it's neither right nor wrong.
- 42:55That's, I think that's what one is going for with like the
- 42:56saying that it's in the editing, it feels like it's in the post
- 43:06production. It is very much a an editorial choice for those
- 43:11particular publications. Not necessarily that she's lighting
- 43:15it poorly. It's that she's like, this is a, this is the editorial
- 43:19choice of the magazine, and they're choosing, and they're
- 43:23choosing those certain poses, because she's not just shooting
- 43:2715 frames and culinary today, right, right? So the editorial
- 43:32process is and that's why, like, if we talk about the, think
- 43:39about this, if the Lebron James Vogue cover with Giselle bunch
- 43:44exactly as it is, came out in October 4, 1996 people have been
- 43:55in an uproar because the of the OJ Simpson ruling On October 3,
- 43:591996 or 95 the day before, right because of those connotations.
- 44:06Now we come back to where we're at right now, like I said, the
- 44:12look and esthetic and please. I mean, don't make me look bad. I
- 44:16might get fired for this. The look and esthetic of that. It
- 44:21shows you how great that person is and what kind of product they
- 44:26could present. The Michelle Obama cover of Vogue right made
- 44:32her look brown, but it also still made her look youthful and
- 44:35graceful and elegant when she shoots Meryl Streep on that
- 44:43Rolling Stone cover. Look at this like I said. It shows up on
- 44:50here. It shows Lady Gaga on my on my search. Lady Gaga, Meryl
- 44:54Streep and Adele side by side. It shows Adele looking rosy
- 45:02cheeked. He looks great. Makeup looks good, beautiful. Meryl
- 45:07Streep has a lot more seasoning to her visage than Adele does.
- 45:13She's been around for a minute a close up, so they put her in a
- 45:17mask. Why do they put her in a mask? Is they put her in a mask
- 45:25to cover up that seasoning. I don't want to say the age,
- 45:29right? It's what we want to see on the cover, and the editors
- 45:37and the the like I said, I don't know if she can get all the
- 45:41blame when it's the art directors, the print directors,
- 45:44the editors, the you know. I mean, there's so much more added
- 45:48to the team. But what you do notice is that when you see them
- 45:52shoot men, you don't see as much fall off in how they are
- 46:00presented as far as color grading goes. If you see them
- 46:04shoot Idris, they don't have that problem. If you see him
- 46:09shoot like I said, LeBron, they don't have that problem. Kanye,
- 46:13they shot him lighter. But if you see them shoot Kanye by
- 46:17himself, they don't have that problem.
- 46:22Casey Fatchett: And my question is this, like, a, is this a bias
- 46:27that, because of how women are presented, they think that? I
- 46:31mean historically, though, like, I mean, we touched on this a
- 46:34little bit before, but like, historically, the like, the
- 46:44like, film stock, the light meters, the like, early digital
- 46:52sensors are all sort of geared towards exposing, towards a
- 46:57lighter skin tone. And we, we're we're like, he's used to getting
- 47:06the result. It's not necessarily even like an attempt, on the
- 47:11photographer's part to misrepresent the tonality of
- 47:18somebody's skin, but it's just that the the the stock or the
- 47:22and we'll
- 47:23Leighton DaCosta: push back against that. So sorry. I will
- 47:26push back against
- 47:27Casey Fatchett: it's like the stock and the sensors, at least
- 47:35early on, are not geared to accurately represent those
- 47:41tones.
- 47:41Leighton DaCosta: But if you look at photography from as
- 47:45recent as wings, but go back to like Gordon Parks back in the
- 47:4970s, right? Or Cecil from South Carolina. Cecil, ah, I can't
- 47:54remember Cecil's last name, but Cecil, for those who don't know,
- 47:56Cecil, is the one that is photographed drinking from the
- 47:59whites only water fountain. He is also a photographer right
- 48:03back in the 60s or whatnot, 50s and 60s, right? But anyway, you
- 48:08go back to they're shooting black and white. They're
- 48:09shooting on these stocks. They're shooting with the same
- 48:12film as everybody else, and in the 60s, 70s and 80s, they're
- 48:17still able to expose with the same equipment as everybody
- 48:21else. You go back to the most photographed man of the 1800s
- 48:26Frederick Douglass, right. Right. Photograph, more than
- 48:33even Abraham Lincoln, even though he didn't have as much
- 48:37time to get photographed, that's beside the point, right? You
- 48:42know, his last night was a shot, a little shoot, but no, that was
- 48:52a John Wells joke, no. So the thing about it is, is that, if
- 48:56you think about it, is it really that way? Or is it that excuses
- 49:02that we make? Is it really say, hey, we couldn't cook like this
- 49:07because we don't have that same kitchen setup as Gordon Ramsay,
- 49:11but if Gordon Ramsay came into our kitchen after a few
- 49:15expletives, he would still make a better meal. He would still
- 49:18make a better Beef Wellington than I do. It may not be up to
- 49:21his standard, but it will still be a resemblance of the beef
- 49:27wellington that he's known to make. And I think we use because
- 49:31we have so much of a crutch. We do not market, sell, shoot to
- 49:37people. And this is not me gonna blame the victim, but it's not
- 49:40like blaming the victim. If a certain customer base demands a
- 49:47certain product outcome and results, the market will
- 49:50eventually move to provide that certain product outcome and
- 49:53result. If certain photographers lose business and. Is a market
- 50:00for that business. Guess what? The market will provide that if
- 50:07you go to Chick fil A McDonald's, the drive thrus,
- 50:11right? All them now have double drive throughs. All the new ones
- 50:15have double drive throughs. Multiple drive throughs going
- 50:17out because less people are actually sitting in the
- 50:20restaurant eating most people are getting it to go. You go to
- 50:24now McDonald's. You can get a McFlurry after a few lawsuits or
- 50:29whatever, but the ice cream machine is working. Is the ice
- 50:34cream machine working because the lawsuits, or is the ice
- 50:37cream machine working because they're losing market share to
- 50:41restaurants like Culvers or Wendy's and Dairy Queen and
- 50:45Wendy's. You see, I'm saying yeah, so I'm not saying that.
- 50:49I'm blaming dark skinned people for not. I'm blaming dark
- 50:55skinned people for for taking substandard work that they do
- 51:02not themselves, like from photographers and not demanding
- 51:07better. If you demand better, and you say that you vote with
- 51:12your wallet, your pocketbook, right if you demand better from
- 51:16your providers, because photography, at the end of the
- 51:19day, while it is commoditized, it is still a relationship. It
- 51:23is still a relationship like I want to be shot by Jerry
- 51:27gillnes, I want to be shot by Jerry giones, right? And if I
- 51:31have a choice between getting shot by Jerry giones and Peter
- 51:37Hurley for a headshot, I may make a certain choice, but I'm
- 51:41gonna tell you this right now, if I have the choice we get
- 51:45between those two, which both of them, they're great guys, right?
- 51:49I watch you for cigar and a beer. If Jeffrey Salter is added
- 51:54to that mix, Jeff's getting my money. Jeffrey's getting my
- 52:00money because he is going to make me look in a way that I did
- 52:04not know that I could look and still feel like myself. That is
- 52:10very important, that is very important as a photographer, to
- 52:15get your subjects to look in a way that you provide that they
- 52:22didn't know that it could look like themselves. This is the
- 52:25reason why so many people are using the AI streaming platforms
- 52:32to get well, you don't look like that. I know I don't look like
- 52:35that. Last 37 pounds, I will look like that, right? But, I
- 52:42mean, what's what's got? Um, now I'm doing that. Uh, what's it?
- 52:51Lil NAS X, look how he is photographed. You've never heard
- 52:56anybody say, oh, man, his skin don't look like that. He is
- 52:59photographed as a Black Stallion, black, dark racehorse.
- 53:02I call him Sunday silence, right? He is where you racehorse
- 53:06people. So I think there's, there has to be where the
- 53:11customer base. And I even throw this out, you don't hear
- 53:18customers. You don't hear regular people say Annie
- 53:21linguist cannot shoot Simone Biles, you hear photographers
- 53:26say Annie Lee was cannot shoot Siobhan balls. And you know what
- 53:30Annie Leibovitz says, show me your photo of Siobhan boss,
- 53:34right? Because I have one. Do you have one?
- 53:39Casey Fatchett: Right? Yeah, I think that, again, it's, she's,
- 53:44I think that the the criticism, a lot of that criticism is
- 53:48probably more leaned towards the editorial and, like, post
- 53:52production and whatever toning in, in my opinion, as a
- 53:54photographer, but I think in the agree with what you're saying.
- 53:58Like, demand better. Demanding better service is going to like,
- 54:01you know, better product is going to have a huge impact. And
- 54:07I think that the problem that happens for some people is that
- 54:16they don't know how to approach getting better at photographing
- 54:23black skin or just different skin tones. Like, again, this is
- 54:27something that I had to learn early on as a wedding
- 54:29photographer, because I was getting a lot of, you know,
- 54:32mixed tone weddings where I was like, oh, like, how do I like
- 54:37this person is very dark, this person is very light. How do I
- 54:40get them in the same photo and have the like it not look like
- 54:43it's under or overexposed on somebody? And I think that a lot
- 54:48of people overcompensate to lightning dark like, by just
- 54:52turning up the lights to light darker skinned people, because
- 54:55they don't know, like, oh, I need to keep some I need to keep
- 54:58some shadow in there. I need. Keep some so
- 55:01Leighton DaCosta: remember you so you still used to like over
- 55:04like somebody when they had wrinkles, yeah, right, like you.
- 55:09Bless it out, right? Yeah. That goes back to a customer base. I
- 55:13will say this as a wedding photographer, if you knew that
- 55:18you were passing up an extra five wet five to 10 weddings a
- 55:22year based on your inability to light somebody, not even a dark
- 55:27skinned person, a brown skin person, right? If you knew that
- 55:31you were passing up at effectively five to six digits
- 55:35worth of revenue a year, would that make you more receptive on
- 55:40how learning how to do that. The deeper challenge is, is that
- 55:44that customer base, I was at a wedding this past week. I was at
- 55:49a wedding this past week of a photographer, and I went as a
- 55:54guest because I was known as a photographer. But the question
- 55:58is, hey, LD, how much would you charge to do this wedding,
- 56:02really quick, backyard wedding, or whatever. You know, the more
- 56:07in the wedding photography business, the more a customer
- 56:11describes the wedding, the more they expect the wedding or the
- 56:16cheaper they expect the wedding photography to be. It's only a
- 56:21small wedding in the backyard where there's only gonna be 10
- 56:25of us and, you know, we're gonna have really good food, and this
- 56:30that you only need you for an hour, right? The more that that
- 56:34comes up, the less they want. So when you sit there and you're
- 56:39like, Well, hey, how much would you charge me to come? Do you
- 56:44wedding? Three hours? Oh, only $3,500 All right? Well, it's
- 56:48only two hours. I know I was looking you up, right? And the
- 56:52thing about it is, is that normally don't do two hours like
- 56:57normally, I need at least four, right? They you have a you still
- 57:02have a large customer base that and a photographer base meeting
- 57:06that customer demand of not providing value for their
- 57:10quality of photography. And so when I say that is, you're
- 57:15providing good enough, and that's what the customer wants.
- 57:19The customer wants good enough. If a photographer had the
- 57:23essence to say, hey, I want to provide better than good enough.
- 57:28I want to swim up. I want to be able to adequately light any
- 57:32skin subject, and then get better at that. I want to know
- 57:37my lane. If my lane is, hey, I do courthouse weddings, and I
- 57:41want to stay in my lane. Just because you stay in your lane
- 57:45doesn't mean that you can't dominate that lane, right,
- 57:49right? You can't just be amazing at Courthouse weddings, exactly.
- 57:54And the thing about it is, is that, hey, if I'm only charging
- 57:59$750 for a courthouse wedding, right, which puts me in a point
- 58:04to where I'm competing with my friend that has a camera, right?
- 58:08And do I want to spend that much? But if I'm doing that and
- 58:13I'm like, Dude, this dude does a 35 minute courthouse wedding
- 58:17photography, gives you an album this that the other and you
- 58:22democratize it to where that 35 minute only takes you an hour of
- 58:26pre post and whatever it is outside of transportation, and
- 58:31you can sit out there and do eight winners a day at the same
- 58:35courthouse, and that's you. That's your studio. You have it
- 58:40locked in. The only way you get to that spot is because you
- 58:44dominated that lane. And I think photographers, Dunning crew, we
- 58:49talk about Dunning Kruger, incompetent people are not
- 58:53competent enough to realize that they're incompetent. And
- 58:57competent people feel that what comes easy to them should come
- 59:02easy to everybody else, right? I used to tell folks this, the
- 59:06difference between me and you is that I'm good enough to realize
- 59:11that I suck, right? The white speck on chicken shit, that's
- 59:15chicken shit too, right? And so pure country. George Strait,
- 59:20great movie. And I think that is important for us to as a
- 59:24photographer, not necessarily to be humbled, but to have the
- 59:29desire to say, Hey, can I shoot a cup of rice, a cup of rice
- 59:33pudding in white milk and a paper cup in a snowstorm, and be
- 59:38able to get the details in those shadows, right? You know, you
- 59:42sort of saying that, understand that they're not just different
- 59:47shades of white, they're different they're different
- 59:51qualities of shadows that that make it stand out. If I'm going
- 59:55to insert some watch into this currently, right now, swatch
- 1:00:00watch. Have a moon swatch called the snow moon. This is the, the
- 1:00:05first white watch or non blue watch in this series, and it
- 1:00:09has. An earth phase complication on it where Snoopy is on the
- 1:00:14moon as the cartoon from the 60s, when we landed the moon, he
- 1:00:18said, I beat everybody. I even beat the cat next door, right? I
- 1:00:23beat the Russians. I beat everybody. I beat the cat next
- 1:00:27door. But one of the differences in this version is that while
- 1:00:32Snoopy is on the moon with Woodstock and he has a helmet on
- 1:00:36on the moon, little easter egg. He actually has snow on his
- 1:00:40helmet, which I've only seen it because it was photographed well
- 1:00:45to differentiate the snow from the helmet, from looking through
- 1:00:50the helmet on the back of the watch, it's just a little
- 1:00:54nuanced, different white it may be the difference between 00000,
- 1:00:59and 0001, right? Just that little nuance. But young for and
- 1:01:03I say young, not by age, but by experience. Young photographers
- 1:01:08still look at exposure based on the highlights, not also by the
- 1:01:13shadows. So when you're talking about quality of light, quality
- 1:01:17shadows, quality of all of that, I think that's kind of where we
- 1:01:22have to educate the customers to say, Hey, why you are getting
- 1:01:27for me, is not just good enough, it's beyond good enough. And
- 1:01:31then they can see that. And unfortunately, we are using
- 1:01:35crutches like editing. We are using crutches like software. We
- 1:01:40are using crutches like and little, no secret, I use the
- 1:01:44same crutches, so I'm not chastising, right, but, but
- 1:01:48Cullen. Cullen became such a huge industry in the past 10
- 1:01:52years, from photo mechanic to aftershoot that now, guess who
- 1:01:57has culling inside of there? Lightroom. It's not but
- 1:02:01Lightroom doesn't have color because of those things.
- 1:02:05Lightroom has color because when you go into Google Photos or
- 1:02:09Apple photos, I type in what I'm looking for and all of a sudden
- 1:02:14it brings up everything that I've shot that way, yeah, so
- 1:02:18they lost market share and use. Why do I need Lightroom anymore?
- 1:02:23When Google Photos or Apple photos does a generic enough
- 1:02:27editing on it, it does great. You know, fetching. I've started
- 1:02:32shooting by because I was forced to. I've started shooting Camera
- 1:02:37Raw on my Samsung phone. And every time I shoot Camera Raw,
- 1:02:41it does its own little generic editing. And that generic
- 1:02:45editing is good enough. So if I'm giving a customer good
- 1:02:50enough, why do I have to get better? And that's what a lot of
- 1:02:54photographers think about because, excuse me, they do not
- 1:02:58upgrade until the market is about to leave them behind. I've
- 1:03:03been guilty of that we know a lot of film photographers. Hey,
- 1:03:07you know digital is just a fad, and in 2005 when digital started
- 1:03:12become much, much more approachable, it's just a fad.
- 1:03:16They still spent four grand on a Nikon f6 camera because a $3,000
- 1:03:21D, 2h or whatever it was at the time was not worth it because
- 1:03:26the pixels didn't match for the film. But it's like, if I can go
- 1:03:30back 20 years, man, I tell you right now, I would be a much
- 1:03:35better photographer, because we lost the the we lost perception
- 1:03:39of I took a shot right now, looked at the back of the
- 1:03:43camera, at my 256 channels, and saw that I was underexposed. And
- 1:03:48in less than 30 seconds, I realized that I needed to be at
- 1:03:53one, 3/50 of a second. You know? Yeah, f7, one. And here, that's,
- 1:03:57Casey Fatchett: that's, that's one of the biggest things about
- 1:04:00like, the difference between shooting. I was talking to
- 1:04:03somebody who shoots only film for weddings, or mostly film,
- 1:04:06not only film, and I was talking about how that would just drive
- 1:04:10me. I used to do it. That's how I started out. Like I said, it
- 1:04:13would drive me insane. Now, why? Because I need, I want to know
- 1:04:17that I am making the adjustments that I'm, you know, and
- 1:04:20especially during, like, portrait time, when I'm shooting
- 1:04:23portraits for everybody, and it's like everybody got their
- 1:04:27eyes open, yep, okay, we're good. It's like that. That was
- 1:04:30the thing when I was shooting films that just always drove me
- 1:04:33crazy. And being able to know that stuff now and be able to
- 1:04:37look at it, and like, you have the ability to, like, practice
- 1:04:40and look at the look at the back of your camera, or look at the
- 1:04:44file and just be like, Okay, I need to change up what I'm doing.
- 1:04:48Leighton DaCosta: It's funny. You could see this, but the
- 1:04:50audience can't, but I have a it's
- 1:04:51Casey Fatchett: another jab at me recording video. That's okay.
- 1:04:54Leighton DaCosta: Well, you know, it's nice to have face to
- 1:04:57face conversations, right? It? It. I have a Nikon f1 100 in my
- 1:05:02hand. And the main reason why I bought this Nikon f1 100, and at
- 1:05:07the time I was shooting with the Nikon d8, 10, is because this f1
- 1:05:12100 had TTL logic built in. And why that was so important with
- 1:05:16me at the time this was like 10 years ago, is that I can use my
- 1:05:21pro photo B ones which had TTL logic for Nikon, and I can go
- 1:05:25between my da 10 meter exposed to everything else within 30
- 1:05:30seconds based off of the film that I was going to have in
- 1:05:34here, right?
- 1:05:35Casey Fatchett: Oh, yeah, I do. I still do that. I still do that.
- 1:05:39Leighton DaCosta: And if I had that in 1995 the ability to do
- 1:05:42that, I tell you what, that adds another 10 years of your growth,
- 1:05:47because, you know, you're not once your eyes get trained to
- 1:05:51see what you want to see. This goes back to the colorism. It's
- 1:05:56like, once you get trained to see what you want to see. Why?
- 1:06:00LD, why do you shoot in black and white in camera. Well,
- 1:06:04because I'm shooting RAW, right, that's that's the quickest way.
- 1:06:09But I just wanted to see if I'm exposed, right, if I got good
- 1:06:13composition, and if I'm focused, that's all I care about. So once
- 1:06:18I get the color balance done, boom, I switch it over to black
- 1:06:23and white, because it's less I got to think about now, every
- 1:06:27once in a while, especially with my old icon, I would fat finger
- 1:06:32something, and the quality would go for a raw find to just find,
- 1:06:36right? And I'm in JPEG, and if the worst thing that I had
- 1:06:41happened to me is that I shot something in black and white, in
- 1:06:45JPEG, but the composition, the focus and everything and
- 1:06:49exposure was right, right then, okay, you know what? Man, that
- 1:06:54model photo shoot looks great. Like, look at that texture like,
- 1:06:58yeah, it was pretty good, man, I tell you what, like, you know,
- 1:07:03and it was fine. Eventually, everybody's like that. I love
- 1:07:07that. You use black and white. It was really, really, you know,
- 1:07:12artistic freedom. I think that's important. That's important. Um,
- 1:07:17I wanted to touch on something though. So like I said, in
- 1:07:21Charleston, I had a lot of dark skinned customers. In San Diego,
- 1:07:26I had a lot of interracial customers, but in San Diego, I
- 1:07:30liked to shoot out in the desert. And so desert lighting
- 1:07:34is a little bit different. You know, especially in southern
- 1:07:38California. If you ever been out there and you shot, it's weird
- 1:07:43because it's like this very soft, harsh lighting at the same
- 1:07:47time. But it's great for loop lighting. So if you're a loop
- 1:07:52lighting person, it is probably the best place. To do loop
- 1:07:56lighting that because you have perfect loop lighting for like,
- 1:08:0110 hours of the day. But one of the things like I said, is when
- 1:08:05you're trying to have because you asked me about this, about
- 1:08:10inclusivity of your portfolio, and I touched on this earlier,
- 1:08:14when I was in Salt Lake, were there people that I could shoot
- 1:08:19that were dark skinned? Yes, because it has a high African,
- 1:08:23Nigerian and Cameroonian population in Salt Lake City,
- 1:08:27Utah, but most of my customers would still have been white. So
- 1:08:32I used different subjects to show that I can shoot different
- 1:08:36subjects. I made it a point to that if I'm going to do a TF,
- 1:08:40let me do a TF with somebody that I normally don't have to
- 1:08:45drive business to the people that I normally do get right.
- 1:08:49They see something different visually. If I shoot mostly
- 1:08:53women, let me shoot men to show diversity, right. If I shoot
- 1:08:58mostly kids, right, let me shoot maternity to show diversity
- 1:09:02right. And there are different ways to do that. And I think
- 1:09:06when you as a photographer, especially with the industry
- 1:09:10shifting again, and this is something like I said, 20 years
- 1:09:15ago was a bunch of old white men and then a lot of young excuse,
- 1:09:19the phrase, quote, unquote, mom talks invaded, and these old
- 1:09:24white men got upset, right? And they call them digital Debbies
- 1:09:28and digital dance. I think that was a term that they used in a
- 1:09:33very dismissive way, right? Never heard digital Dan, but I
- 1:09:37definitely heard digital Debbie's, yeah, digital Debbie,
- 1:09:41I tell you, down to South Florida, and then where it got
- 1:09:46an issue was, was that late, 2000s early teens, the
- 1:09:49demographics, especially in wedding photography, when you
- 1:09:54had. Not just interracial couples, but you have same sex
- 1:09:58couples started coming in, and then you had photographers like,
- 1:10:02hey, I need a same sex couple because I want to diversify my
- 1:10:07portfolio. But they never were inclusive in their portfolio to
- 1:10:11begin with. They just did it as a way to increase market share.
- 1:10:16Casey Fatchett: Yeah, when it becomes very obvious that you're
- 1:10:18just trying to, like, tap into the that extra money.
- 1:10:23Leighton DaCosta: And I think that's the same thing with dark
- 1:10:25skin. I think that's same thing with dark skin, brown skin, if
- 1:10:29you want it in your portfolio and you suck at it, there are
- 1:10:34plenty of underemployed models in this country and in the
- 1:10:40world, I can go to Thailand right now and find you a model
- 1:10:45that has a gray scale of between 80 and 90% gray, right now this
- 1:10:50minute, right? I could probably go to Moscow. I don't know about
- 1:10:53Siberia, right, but I could probably go to Moscow. I know I
- 1:10:56can go to Anchorage, right, and find that. And the reality is,
- 1:11:01is this, if you're looking to get better, instead of
- 1:11:06practicing on clients that are paying, you pay someone to
- 1:11:10practice on, if you don't have the resources to pay somebody to
- 1:11:14practice on, like I said, once again, a bowling ball, an
- 1:11:17iPhone, a all these things that have darker specular highlights
- 1:11:21ingredients. Start shooting them in black and white. Get start
- 1:11:25learning how to how to use a light, shape them, angle it, and
- 1:11:30then get the color grading better. And it doesn't matter if
- 1:11:36it's dark skin or if you want to like, like, right? Now, like I
- 1:11:39said, My hobby is watches, right? And I am shooting watches
- 1:11:42to make posters, something similar, like, Hey, I got a
- 1:11:45printer here, right? Let me use my printer to make posters. And
- 1:11:50one of the areas where I found some traction in is in micro
- 1:11:54brands, because everybody's going to shoot a Rolex poster
- 1:11:57right. In New York, you have this great watch company called
- 1:12:01brew right? And it's based off of the timing of a espresso,
- 1:12:05right? Like, like, there's like, the thing on it. Nobody shoots
- 1:12:09brew. Nobody shoots that to make posters. But you see guys from
- 1:12:13Alton Brown to Idris ebook wearing brew watches, right? And
- 1:12:18these are the $600 watches. These are not expensive watches.
- 1:12:22So to me, it's like it's a microbrew, right? If you want to
- 1:12:27get better, find something and practice with that. And I think
- 1:12:33that is what a lot of photographers don't do. I'm
- 1:12:35guilty of it. We don't practice enough on things that we want to
- 1:12:39shoot. And better did we get the less we want to shoot for what
- 1:12:43we don't get paid for. And going back to miss Adler, when she
- 1:12:47talked about, hey, taking two or three days out of the month
- 1:12:50every month to shoot what you want to shoot. Get better at
- 1:12:53that. Build a portfolio just off of that, right? And you'll be,
- 1:12:57yes, it's costing you money, but you would be surprised at how
- 1:13:01much money you'll get returned as you get better shooting that
- 1:13:05and
- 1:13:05Casey Fatchett: because you're building the portfolio you're
- 1:13:07you have, you then have that stuff in your portfolio that you
- 1:13:10can show people who want to hire you to do that work. And as you
- 1:13:13go along, you get better and better at it.
- 1:13:15Leighton DaCosta: And as a business guy,
- 1:13:18you have to have the mindset to say that latent D is my
- 1:13:21customer, latent D is LDS customer, right? And so if
- 1:13:27latent d.com is redoing which I'm guilty of, it because I've
- 1:13:31posted my blogs, because I have one of those guys that have
- 1:13:33like, 200 drafts, right? But you don't get published. But if
- 1:13:39latent D is latent D's customer, that when lately, pays a model,
- 1:13:43pays for a subject, or pays for a watch or pays for something to
- 1:13:46shoot photograph, I'm hiring myself to shoot something. So at
- 1:13:51least if I'm going to practice with a customer, let that
- 1:13:54customer be me that I'm practicing, right?
- 1:13:56Casey Fatchett: I mean, that's yeah, a fantastic way of looking
- 1:14:00at it like the that you are, you're hiring yourself to do the
- 1:14:05work, to to put it into your portfolio, to get it in there,
- 1:14:11like and get better at it.
- 1:14:13Leighton DaCosta: And I believe in alignment. So if you're, if
- 1:14:15you are a, if you are a maternity photographer, right?
- 1:14:20If I'm a maternity photographer in New York, I'm riding the
- 1:14:23subway to say, Hey, this is me. Excuse me for being
- 1:14:27opportunistic. I'm riding the subway looking for dark skinned
- 1:14:30baby mamas or pregnant women. I should say big moms, pregnant
- 1:14:32women. And be like, Hey, do you want to, do you want to train
- 1:14:35pass a metro pass for two months, right? Something as
- 1:14:40simple as that, and you're photographing your maternity but
- 1:14:47you're also getting your dark skin on, yeah, you're also
- 1:14:50building that, and then you can use those for your sample
- 1:14:52products. So when you're showing diversity to your future
- 1:14:57clients, they're like, Oh, you. He or she shoots. Oh, wow. This
- 1:15:02is great. This is different, right? When you are traveling on
- 1:15:06vacation, don't use travel on vacations, because, once again,
- 1:15:08those, those are tax implications on there. But let's
- 1:15:11say that you are using work on vacations, right? Hey, book a
- 1:15:16shoot, book a model, local a local model, or local family, or
- 1:15:19whatever it is to get that kind of content that you are needing
- 1:15:25practice on in your portfolio, and they don't have to be pretty
- 1:15:32I forgot who told me this is like, Hey, your your your
- 1:15:37website is for pretty people, your blog is for all the ugly
- 1:15:41people, right? And it's like, but a lot of people will go
- 1:15:47through your blog to look at people just like them, who are
- 1:15:50look way beautiful, and they ever have a you tell the story,
- 1:15:54and at the end of the day, we have to get back to using our
- 1:15:58lenses to tell stories and capturing people in their
- 1:16:03essence to tell a better story.
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- 1:18:42Unknown: Hey. And now for my favorite part of the show,
- 1:18:47what's that? Say? Useless information. This is always
- 1:18:53death for this episode later,
- 1:18:56Casey Fatchett: which US state, do you think is closest to Africa?
- 1:19:02Leighton DaCosta: I mean, if I was to assume either Florida or
- 1:19:08Hawaii by distance, by population, South Carolina,
- 1:19:14Casey Fatchett: no, no distance was what I was talking about.
- 1:19:16Leighton DaCosta: Okay, the so I would say Florida only because
- 1:19:21the Pacific is big as hell, and even though Hawaii is look like
- 1:19:28it would be a How can I put it this way? If I'm looking at
- 1:19:34Africa, I'm taking in something like, let's say the Azores or
- 1:19:40the Canary Islands, and I'm counting those, and considering
- 1:19:47a hurricane, only takes about five to 10 days to go from the
- 1:19:53Canary Islands to the keys. Okay? And a typhoon? Oh, you. I
- 1:19:59still would say Florida.
- 1:20:02Casey Fatchett: Well, I mean, yes, Florida is obviously closer
- 1:20:05than Hawaii, because you still have Asia to deal with before
- 1:20:09you get to Africa to get right. But the correct answer is, Maine.
- 1:20:13Leighton DaCosta: Are you talking about going over to pole?
- 1:20:17Casey Fatchett: No, no, it's like it Maine is actually
- 1:20:22further east, and you draw a straight line over to, like,
- 1:20:29Morocco, it's like, from there, like, it's actually closer than
- 1:20:33Florida.
- 1:20:34Leighton DaCosta: So, so I'm going to go use them. Are we
- 1:20:37using a Mercator projection or what? Because, because, if I
- 1:20:42were using a chord line, if I'm using a chord line and I'm
- 1:20:47taking I would say Portland,
- 1:20:50Casey Fatchett: okay, look at like, how Africa is shaped
- 1:20:54there, right where Florida actually is. The distance we're
- 1:21:00talking about is going up towards, you realize how far up
- 1:21:05like, when you think of like France, like Paris is actually
- 1:21:11on more of a New York, like New York, as opposed to like people
- 1:21:17always kind of like, think it's like further south, but it's not
- 1:21:23right? That's more like New York, so, but Maine is way
- 1:21:28further east than Florida is, yes, and if you're just going in
- 1:21:34a straight line from from Maine to like Morocco, Azores,
- 1:21:39whatever like
- 1:21:41Leighton DaCosta: I'm looking at it visually. So I'm looking at
- 1:21:44it visually, and I'm using a chord line. Okay, I can give you
- 1:21:49that I'm looking at it visually, but we're still, hold on a
- 1:21:54second. I just want to make sure before I before I commit to that
- 1:21:59answer.
- 1:22:01Casey Fatchett: Finally, yes, say your final.
- 1:22:03Leighton DaCosta: I will accept that. I will accept that I can
- 1:22:07admit when I'm wrong. And the only reason why I say that based
- 1:22:13off of that definition South Carolina, but I still say by
- 1:22:18chord line. If I were to draw a chord line from, I want to say
- 1:22:24the Tangiers, or whatever it is, right, whatever that's at the
- 1:22:29top of Morocco and that area, yeah, because we're because,
- 1:22:35like, the we're not talking straight to Gibraltar. We're
- 1:22:40just talking about that. I want to say, Hold on, a second
- 1:22:45Casey Fatchett: might be the longest we've ever made.
- 1:22:47Leighton DaCosta: Yeah, no, you know you're, no, you're, you're
- 1:22:48absolutely 100 I'm looking at it right now. I'm trying to see
- 1:22:52where I want to look at what town this is, because I'm having
- 1:22:55a little Hunt for Red October,
- 1:22:59Casey Fatchett: whatever they end up parking the sub.
- 1:23:01Leighton DaCosta: Yeah, so like, if I'm in Cutler, Cutler Maine
- 1:23:06or Lubeck Maine, but then by your definition, Canada is
- 1:23:11closer to Africa than America, yeah, which is even more useless
- 1:23:17information. Yeah, that I did not need to know that Nova
- 1:23:23Scotia is closer to Africa. It's closer to Africa than Key West,
- 1:23:29yeah, and that is why we waste time on this podcast.
- 1:23:34Casey Fatchett: Yes, exactly. That's why we have the trivial
- 1:23:36knowledge. Layton, thanks for coming by again. It's been a
- 1:23:40while, so we've had you back on the show. I don't know if you're
- 1:23:43still, I don't know if this makes you the most, most
- 1:23:46frequent guest, but I think it does. I think you've become most
- 1:23:49frequent guest again.
- 1:23:51Leighton DaCosta: Was this, am I the youngest guest? Though? Am I
- 1:23:53still the youngest
- 1:23:54Casey Fatchett: flyest guest? For sure, the you know,
- 1:23:59Leighton DaCosta: you know you know what we got to do when
- 1:24:05Marvel gets back on Netflix and they bring back Luke Cage,
- 1:24:12making access there.
- 1:24:15Casey Fatchett: Second season was terrible.
- 1:24:17Leighton DaCosta: Casey this a new haircut?,
- 1:24:20Casey Fatchett: still not as bad. Well, I don't know, was it
- 1:24:23marked for death?
- 1:24:26Leighton DaCosta: Oh, no, no. Was Meet Joe Black?
- 1:24:28Casey Fatchett: Yes, that's but I'm talking about generally in a
- 1:24:31movie, was that? Was that marked for death when he's like, Screw
- 1:24:35face, Keith David was that he's David Screwface?
- 1:24:38Leighton DaCosta: No, but Mark for death is one of the Kevin
- 1:24:41skull, the Steven Seagal Steven Seagal movies like that's when
- 1:24:47the Steven Seagal movies were popular. More about a
- 1:24:52catchphrase as for title, just like how the Jason stadium
- 1:24:56movies are about occupation phrase, right? You know, I mean.
- 1:24:59Right?
- 1:25:00Casey Fatchett: Yes. The catchphrase one guy thought he
- 1:25:02was invincible,
- 1:25:03Leighton DaCosta: hard to kill. Yeah, hard to kill. He's marked
- 1:25:08for death. He is under siege, right? Whereas Jason Statham is,
- 1:25:15he's the beekeeper. I'm the beekeeper.
- 1:25:19Casey Fatchett: You know how you do a Jason, take some accent.
- 1:25:21Gonna get a little you're gonna get a little love. Because say,
- 1:25:25Do you know who I am? As fast as you possibly can, no,
- 1:25:28Leighton DaCosta: I am, no, AM, no, am.
- 1:25:32Casey Fatchett: You're gonna get rid of his. I'm a beekeeper.
- 1:25:34I'm, right, a working man.
- 1:25:37Leighton DaCosta: So what I love about Jason Staton story? I
- 1:25:40don't know. I don't know. This is like, more useless
- 1:25:43information. Guy, Richie, right?
- 1:25:45Casey Fatchett: Found, yeah. Is this how he found Jason Statham?
- 1:25:48Leighton DaCosta: Go ahead. Yeah. Guy, Richie, and the thing
- 1:25:51about it was, was that Jason Statham is a great example of do
- 1:25:55what? Of not only staying in your lane but dominating it,
- 1:25:59right? By doing what you what you do. Because when you look at
- 1:26:03a Jason stadium movie, you expect Jake. You never want
- 1:26:07Jason stadium to show up and be Brad Pitt, yeah, right. You
- 1:26:11always want him. And the thing that is Brad Pitt. Now, whether
- 1:26:15Brad Pitt is serious, like Moneyball, or He is funny, like
- 1:26:19money train, right? I'm glad I did that off the top of my head,
- 1:26:23where I can get those two together, right? He's still Brad
- 1:26:27Pitt, and he's no he no longer has to be anything. And so even
- 1:26:31when you're looking at World War Z, or whatever it is that he was
- 1:26:35in, it's the clooneyness. He's Brad Pitt. He no longer has to
- 1:26:39be, be. Meet Joe Black. He's just Brad Pitt, and he's cool.
- 1:26:43So that being said, if you could ever get me and Brad Pitt in the
- 1:26:48same room on the podcast, yeah, well, then we have to do video.
- 1:26:52And I have to, like, I will give you the skin tones, right? I
- 1:26:56will do the entire podcast in Jamaican accent, in my Jamaican
- 1:27:00accent, right? Like, and we'd have to schedule it right when I
- 1:27:04come back from home, because that's what it's strongest,
- 1:27:08right? Yeah, well, mania, yeah. And that way people in my Tuan,
- 1:27:12yes, I am twanging because they usually take it from customs
- 1:27:16when I when I come
- 1:27:17Casey Fatchett: through, you have anything to declare, yes,
- 1:27:22my accent,
- 1:27:24Leighton DaCosta: right, exactly right. Once again. Thank you,
- 1:27:27Casey for having me on. Though I appreciate it. It's always great
- 1:27:33to be here it is. As I get older and my eyesight gets worse,
- 1:27:38right? I use that day after even more, right? Make sure your
- 1:27:43diopter is a it's perfectly focused and it's ranked.
- 1:27:48Casey Fatchett: Mine is cranked as far as it can go.
- 1:27:51Leighton DaCosta: It is great to see. I will say this though
- 1:27:55prediction time. I think in the next five years, you will see a
- 1:28:00huge revolution of photography back to 1997 slash 98 to 2003
- 1:28:05when photojournalism was all the rage, right? And the main reason
- 1:28:11why, and even in the early digital era, it was, it was a
- 1:28:15rage. But I think to go back to authentic shot on film, not not
- 1:28:21AI, photo journalism is going to be where people are going to get
- 1:28:26their credibility from. I think that's going to be where they
- 1:28:32get their photo there. And you've already seen it with,
- 1:28:36with Kodak and Fuji bringing back a lot of old recipes on
- 1:28:41film that they didn't have. And you're like, why are they
- 1:28:46bringing back on this 35 millimeter film? Like, who is
- 1:28:51out there making 35 millimeter cameras? Right?
- 1:28:55Casey Fatchett: Oh, there are new 35 millimeter cameras,
- 1:28:57exactly like point and shoots. People want those I bought, I
- 1:29:02bought a an Olympus, like, at the my local camera store that
- 1:29:07is like a used pile, and I'm hoping it'll actually work. But,
- 1:29:11like, I was just like, oh, this is a look that people want. This
- 1:29:14is a look that people want, you know, out there, and, you know,
- 1:29:18I was
- 1:29:19Leighton DaCosta: like, said, I had to buy one of those b i
- 1:29:21think they call b1, two, threes, or whatever, the B cell, yes,
- 1:29:25batteries that that used to have to put in the APS, C cameras.
- 1:29:29Yeah, right, yeah.
- 1:29:30Casey Fatchett: Find one to make to see if it would work and it's
- 1:29:33okay. It's a, there's a, I think what you're you're on to
- 1:29:37something there, because it's that, that sort of backlash,
- 1:29:41because we're already starting to, I think the first wave of
- 1:29:45backlash against AI and people want to know what they're seeing
- 1:29:49is real, and like younger people as much, it's a very and but
- 1:29:53when I say younger, I don't mean by experience. I mean by age,
- 1:29:58but there's a nostalgia for a time that they. Didn't
- 1:30:01experience that was not connected to the internet, and
- 1:30:05what they view as simpler. So I think that you're absolutely correct.