Latest / Skin Anarchy / Why Expensive Skincare Isn't Always Better with Lei Smith
Transcript
- 0:00Ekta Yadav: Hey guys, welcome back to Skin Anarchy.
- 0:02Ekta Yadav: I'm very, very excited about this episode because we don't get to hear a lot from our new generation of formulators and the ones that are really, really making a mark.
- 0:10Ekta Yadav: And I am so excited because I have a friend, a new friend here with me today that I met on my own social media journey.
- 0:16Ekta Yadav: And I'm very impressed not only by his formulations, but his scientific rigor that he puts into everything that he creates.
- 0:21Ekta Yadav: So without further ado, please welcome Leitin Smith, who is the founder of Leitin Skincare.
- 0:25Ekta Yadav: Welcome, Leitin.
- 0:26Leitin Smith: Thank you.
- 0:26Leitin Smith: Thanks for having me.
- 0:27Leitin Smith: I appreciate it.
- 0:28Leitin Smith: It's been wonderful to meet you for the first time.
- 0:30Leitin Smith: But I'm also a big fan of yours as well.
- 0:32Ekta Yadav: No, it's wonderful to have you, and thank you for agreeing to come on, you know.
- 0:35Ekta Yadav: And I'm excited because your skincare really caught my eye when I first saw it.
- 0:40Ekta Yadav: And I was like, I gotta talk to him.
- 0:41Ekta Yadav: And we were just talking before this for all of our audience listening.
- 0:44Ekta Yadav: Like, it's so cool to watch formulators at work, you know.
- 0:47Ekta Yadav: And I remember watching one of your videos and you were explaining things so wonderfully in the science and what really goes into understanding like what makes skincare efficacious.
- 0:55Ekta Yadav: And I think we just don't have enough of that, you know, and that kind of understanding.
- 0:58Ekta Yadav: So with before I dive into that, I want to start with you, Leitin.
- 1:01Ekta Yadav: And if you could tell us about your journey, like what got you into chemistry and formulation?
- 1:06Ekta Yadav: I mean, where did that start?
- 1:08Leitin Smith: It sort of started as a hobby, actually.
- 1:10Leitin Smith: Um, so it's about six years ago I started developing my own formulas and and all that kind of stuff.
- 1:17Leitin Smith: And uh did the uh cosmetic chemist course and all that kind of thing.
- 1:20Leitin Smith: It just started as a hobby.
- 1:22Leitin Smith: Uh at that time I was landscape gardening.
- 1:24Leitin Smith: I've got a lot of passions in my life that I've done.
- 1:27Leitin Smith: Uh so I have a huge passion for plants.
- 1:29Leitin Smith: And so I did landscape designing and all that kind of stuff.
- 1:31Leitin Smith: So during that time, that's where the passion started.
- 1:33Leitin Smith: Try to launch my own brand around about that time.
- 1:36Leitin Smith: Didn't quite work out, the timing just wasn't right.
- 1:38Leitin Smith: And then about four years ago, I sort of decided, you know, this is what I wanted to do.
- 1:42Leitin Smith: So it was a passion that sort of developed over time, especially with all the skincare that's out there at the moment.
- 1:46Leitin Smith: It took me forever to find the right skincare products.
- 1:49Leitin Smith: And now I I get why, because of the type of formulation that I do now, but that's essentially it.
- 1:54Leitin Smith: It was a it was a passion that sort of developed over time.
- 1:57Ekta Yadav: Yeah, I feel like the best things come out of that though.
- 1:59Ekta Yadav: You know, like I feel like when you really kind of discover something that you you want to understand, like you innovate in that space.
- 2:05Ekta Yadav: So that's that's pretty dope.
- 2:06Ekta Yadav: That's how it works.
- 2:07Leitin Smith: I had a huge sense of curiosity in life.
- 2:09Leitin Smith: Like um, I originally started in banking uh and I had quite a good career in banking.
- 2:13Leitin Smith: Then I fell in love with gardening and plants and all that kind of stuff.
- 2:17Leitin Smith: And it was the same sort of situation as I got deeper into it.
- 2:20Leitin Smith: I just got this like hyper focus type of personality.
- 2:24Leitin Smith: And so uh when it came to cosmetics, it's like an endless, you can never know everything.
- 2:29Leitin Smith: And I love that about it.
- 2:30Ekta Yadav: Yeah, it's like an ocean.
- 2:31Ekta Yadav: It's an ocean.
- 2:31Ekta Yadav: Uh no, I wanna I want to ask you because your your formula is, I honestly I love the whole line.
- 2:36Ekta Yadav: I think it's so, so well thought out.
- 2:38Ekta Yadav: You know, even your new products, whenever you come out, I I get excited because you put a lot of thought into like what's gonna move the needle for consumers, you know?
- 2:44Ekta Yadav: And I think the industry, I personally have been watching it for six years.
- 2:47Ekta Yadav: I know you have 15 years of experience under your belt.
- 2:50Ekta Yadav: What are some things that you started to notice in the industry?
- 2:52Ekta Yadav: Maybe, I mean, did you have moments where you were like, I wish we would do more of this, you know, and I wish we would stop going in this direction and go in this direction.
- 2:59Ekta Yadav: Did you ever have moments like that when you were making decisions about formulas or new products?
- 3:03Leitin Smith: Uh I sort of just went with what I wanted to do to do.
- 3:06Leitin Smith: So the way that I sort of develop uh my products is that I don't really develop with a price in mind.
- 3:11Leitin Smith: There's so many ingredients out there, so I I sort of just play with a lot of ingredients.
- 3:15Leitin Smith: It's like painting with all the colours, really.
- 3:16Leitin Smith: I don't really follow trends.
- 3:18Leitin Smith: So a lot of my products don't really like will have a lot of ingredients that people don't really care about a lot.
- 3:23Leitin Smith: And so if I fall in love with something because the science is there or uh or it seems quite innovative and interesting, then I'll use that.
- 3:30Leitin Smith: I think what's really interesting about formulation and especially what's in the retail market, I know how much a formulation needs to be at in order for it to make it into retail and distribution.
- 3:40Leitin Smith: That when you formulate for that particular market, you have to keep your formulations that are at about 10 to 10 to 15% of the total RRP.
- 3:47Leitin Smith: Which when you look at formulations from that angle, there's not a lot of innovation you can fit into that pricing, you know what I mean?
- 3:53Leitin Smith: And then still keep products affordable.
- 3:55Leitin Smith: And I don't think skincare needs to be expensive, but if you're going into distribution or that kind of stuff, then it does.
- 4:02Leitin Smith: Do you know what I mean?
- 4:03Leitin Smith: So which is why I really appreciate not being in retail and I'm gonna keep it that way because in order for me to keep formulations where people get good value for what they're buying, then I have to sort of do it in-house, if you know what I mean.
- 4:15Leitin Smith: Uh and I made that decision.
- 4:16Leitin Smith: I was back and forth about it.
- 4:17Leitin Smith: That's part of the reason why I I like to formulate my own products, is because I know I can do it better.
- 4:24Leitin Smith: So and because of the price points that I'm at as well, it's affordable for people to get really good formulations at affordable prices.
- 4:32Leitin Smith: I know I'm not the cheapest, but I'm also not expensive at all.
- 4:36Ekta Yadav: Yeah, but you I mean it's fair, you know, because they're very, very, very elegant formulas.
- 4:40Ekta Yadav: And, you know, I've I my skin loves them.
- 4:42Ekta Yadav: And I know you've changed my mind.
- 4:43Ekta Yadav: I'm not gonna lie to you.
- 4:44Ekta Yadav: You've changed my mind on a lot of uh ingredients I thought didn't work for my skin, you know?
- 4:49Ekta Yadav: And I yeah, and like the you have um, there's an essence type of product you have.
- 4:54Ekta Yadav: I think it's your toner.
- 4:55Ekta Yadav: It's very, very nice, it's very soothing, and actually really helped my pores because I never thought that those kind of products would work for me.
- 5:02Ekta Yadav: I'm not gonna lie to you.
- 5:03Ekta Yadav: I've never had luck with them.
- 5:04Ekta Yadav: And so I think that's what impresses me so much, right?
- 5:08Ekta Yadav: Uh, is about what you're saying is that you've found a way to create products that we have heard about through the buzz in the industry, but like we never get the full benefit of those products because they get watered down or they're, you know what I mean?
- 5:21Ekta Yadav: There's like stipulations in play.
- 5:22Ekta Yadav: You know, I'd love for you to talk about that.
- 5:24Ekta Yadav: Like, what are some ingredients that you have really, really enjoyed working with or that you feel like the industry maybe should work with more, you know, that we can get a lot more potential out of?
- 5:33Leitin Smith: Oh, there's so many.
- 5:34Leitin Smith: There's so many.
- 5:35Leitin Smith: Like Urea is like a huge favorite of mine just because of the way it's helping your skin and conditions it and hydrates it.
- 5:40Leitin Smith: I've got that in quite a few of my products.
- 5:42Leitin Smith: Uh honestly, I couldn't list a list because I've there's so many products.
- 5:46Leitin Smith: Ictolin is another one.
- 5:47Leitin Smith: I love ictolin, beta glucan that's making an appearance in in the new uh LSP defense uh pigment system that I'm doing at the moment.
- 5:55Leitin Smith: I'm really interested in in more newer ingredients that people don't really care about.
- 6:00Leitin Smith: Like I've got in my new LSP defense serum lycopene, which is uh which comes from tomatoes, and it's really great at quenching singlet oxygen.
- 6:08Leitin Smith: So I can't name because I've got so many.
- 6:10Leitin Smith: I've got all my I've got I stock over 200 ingredients in my warehouse for my particular products, and I have them all because I love them all.
- 6:17Leitin Smith: I'm sorry I can't answer that without Yeah, no, I mean it's it's tough.
- 6:21Ekta Yadav: I kind of put you on the spot on that one, you know, because I know it's tough, especially as for a formulator.
- 6:25Ekta Yadav: It's like picking your favorite child.
- 6:27Leitin Smith: There's so many ingredients that do wonderful things, but you need a combination of different ingredients to do so.
- 6:32Leitin Smith: There's not one ingredient that does everything, unless, of course, like you know what I mean.
- 6:36Leitin Smith: So it's like a group effort.
- 6:37Leitin Smith: So there's there's ingredients that I love for specific reasons, but there isn't one ingredient, I guess, that I'll say is the holy grail.
- 6:44Ekta Yadav: Yeah.
- 6:44Ekta Yadav: No, that makes a lot of sense.
- 6:45Ekta Yadav: And you know, I want to ask you because there's a topic that comes up, I think, now more than it has ever come up, right?
- 6:51Ekta Yadav: And that is barrier repair.
- 6:53Ekta Yadav: And I think a lot of people are focused on barrier repair.
- 6:55Ekta Yadav: I personally have I have my own theories about that because I think we've been overexfoliating for so long that we're now we're like, fix my barrier, you know, let's let's really heal this stuff.
- 7:04Ekta Yadav: But from your experience, what is what is it that we miss about barrier repair?
- 7:08Ekta Yadav: What is it that you would want consumers to know more about in terms of like the products that will actually move the needle when it comes to healing your barrier, helping your barrier?
- 7:16Ekta Yadav: Um, you know, and what did you use in your line that you think are just you know, hero ingredients?
- 7:21Leitin Smith: Obviously, ceramides are really great for barrier repair, but uh having an impaired barrier is so many things.
- 7:26Leitin Smith: It's it's it's lifestyle.
- 7:28Leitin Smith: Are you stressed out?
- 7:29Leitin Smith: You know what it means?
- 7:30Leitin Smith: That plays a huge part into how healthy your skin is.
- 7:33Leitin Smith: And a lot of people don't really think about that.
- 7:35Leitin Smith: And uh neurocosmetics is like something that I'm sort of keenly getting more interested in as uh the effects that sort of cortisol has on your body uh and your skin.
- 7:43Leitin Smith: And so uh from that perspective, there's that part of it.
- 7:47Leitin Smith: Uh, from a skincare perspective, uh people being really consistent and choosing the right skincare formulation, it's not really ingredients.
- 7:53Leitin Smith: It's really interesting that people love to demonize or they go to a specific ingredient.
- 7:57Leitin Smith: Nysinamide, for example, will be one of them.
- 7:59Leitin Smith: Often what I find is there are people that obviously have allergies to specific ingredients, but quite often it's not one ingredient.
- 8:06Leitin Smith: It usually comes down to either the type of skincare that you're using or the formulations themselves.
- 8:11Leitin Smith: It's really hard, and I'll be honest with you, it's really hard to say that a specific ingredient uh you're reacting to it because you've got a product that's got like 20 ingredients in it.
- 8:19Leitin Smith: So, how could you isolate that it could be that one ingredient?
- 8:22Leitin Smith: From barrier repair's perspective, I think that a lot of people need to find the brand or the cosmetic line that that works really well with them.
- 8:31Leitin Smith: And there's a spectrum of skincare, so it goes from like gel formulations to gel creams all the way through to oil-based skincare, which is something that I keenly formulated on because it was the only skincare that worked for me.
- 8:41Leitin Smith: That's it's liquid-based formulations, so it's got like rosehep oil, hope oil, and all that kind of stuff.
- 8:45Leitin Smith: And that's because my skin type is more dry, it's mature.
- 8:49Leitin Smith: Uh, I've got oily combination skin actually.
- 8:51Leitin Smith: Not so much now, but when I was younger.
- 8:53Leitin Smith: So choosing the right skincare is really important.
- 8:55Leitin Smith: The other thing, as well, is that skin changes, it changes on the seasons, changes with your hormones, changes with age, every decade, you should be revising your skincare.
- 9:02Leitin Smith: So, what used to work for you in your 20s may not be working for you in your 30s, and you may have to go to a different, completely different range.
- 9:08Leitin Smith: So, I think with barrier repair, it's not a specific set of ingredients because you've got a Cera V for, for example, they've got ceramides in theirs, but that'll dry my skin out.
- 9:17Leitin Smith: So it's not just like it's just ceramides, and that's what you should be looking for.
- 9:21Leitin Smith: If you've got drier skin, you should be, and it's not like it's and this is the really interesting thing about when people say rich creams, then I'm guilty of this as well.
- 9:29Leitin Smith: I can make a formulation thick, even if it's got nothing in it.
- 9:32Leitin Smith: And and it will will be sold as a rich cream because we use specific emulsifiers to make it thick, but it doesn't mean it's gonna offer you what we in theory say would be a rich cream that'll be nice and inclusive.
- 9:42Leitin Smith: So I don't know if I answered your question.
- 9:45Ekta Yadav: No, you did, no, you did.
- 9:46Ekta Yadav: It's it's a really, really interesting.
- 9:47Ekta Yadav: No, it's interesting because I it kind of opens a can of worms, right?
- 9:51Ekta Yadav: For me, because I look at a lot of, I mean, I I test formulas every day and I, you know, it's like a lot of times I just wonder, right?
- 9:58Ekta Yadav: It's like, what is this really in there?
- 10:00Ekta Yadav: And I know that we as an industry, we hyperfixate on ingredients, you know, because as consumers, we want to know.
- 10:05Ekta Yadav: We want to know, like, is this really going to match up to the academic literature that's out there, you know, to the knowledge that we've gathered over time?
- 10:13Ekta Yadav: And I feel like there's always a gap.
- 10:15Ekta Yadav: There's always a gap.
- 10:16Ekta Yadav: It's like the theory and then the reality.
- 10:18Ekta Yadav: And the reality never matches up.
- 10:20Ekta Yadav: And so it makes you wonder as a consumer, like, did you actually put this in there?
- 10:23Ekta Yadav: You know, like, did you, did you fill the formula with what you were saying saying you're gonna fill it with?
- 10:27Ekta Yadav: And then the whole conversation arises of like, well, it's in there, but it's under 1%.
- 10:32Ekta Yadav: So like you're not gaining any benefits.
- 10:34Ekta Yadav: And I would love for you to speak on this in terms of like the formulation angle, is like, what does it take to truly make a formula that you're putting the percentages that you know are gonna actually result in changes?
- 10:48Ekta Yadav: What are the tweaks that you sometimes have to do to a formula to make sure that you do the due diligence and that the ingredient is in there in efficacious amounts?
- 10:56Leitin Smith: It's a it's really a conscious decision from a brand to decide on that.
- 11:00Leitin Smith: Uh uh, you can often tell by the price of the formulation whether or not it does.
- 11:03Leitin Smith: Because, like, take Korean skincare, for example.
- 11:05Leitin Smith: If you take the principle that most retail products work on about a 15% cost of goods by selling a toner for $30, that means that the whole entire formulation is less than $4.
- 11:15Leitin Smith: So when you think about all the ingredients that goes into that, just by working backwards, you'll you you you've got a lot of questions there because it'll be impossible for me to do it.
- 11:24Leitin Smith: My cost of goods sit around about 30%, which is massive.
- 11:26Leitin Smith: And I know that, you know, so that's why I know I can't go into retail.
- 11:30Leitin Smith: The margins won't be in there once you take off 50%, then you take off a bit for distribution.
- 11:34Leitin Smith: So when you look from a price-wise perspective, I made a conscious decision to say I want to have I want to have all of those, all of the quantities in there at the percentages that they needed to be, but then it's a more expensive formula.
- 11:46Leitin Smith: And then I either put up my prices or remain affordable.
- 11:50Leitin Smith: And so, you know, that I think the answer to your question, I think, is that it depends on what the brand wants to do.
- 11:56Leitin Smith: Most often I can tell by the price of the goods, but this is the deceiving part about the cosmetics industry, is that price can also be misleading as well.
- 12:03Leitin Smith: So just because the cosmetic product is expensive, and we often say, oh, because it's more expensive, it's going to be better quality.
- 12:10Leitin Smith: No, that is definitely not the case in the cosmetics industry.
- 12:13Leitin Smith: And this is the hard part for consumers, I think.
- 12:15Leitin Smith: It is difficult.
- 12:16Leitin Smith: Uh for people that don't know formulations, don't know skincare, don't know how like how things are priced, is that it's a it's a hard one to figure out, especially when you associate price with quality.
- 12:27Ekta Yadav: Yeah, no, that's I feel like that's been the struggle, you know.
- 12:30Ekta Yadav: Like before like I even before I even launched this podcast and got super interested in like, you know, just all of the ingredients stuff, like as a cons as just strictly a consumer, I remember being that person that was buying the $400 cream, you know, like the la meres of the world.
- 12:44Ekta Yadav: And I used to just convince myself, you know, like, yeah, this is working for my skin, but it never did.
- 12:49Ekta Yadav: And it's like even now, when there are so many educators online that are teaching about like, hey guys, look for this, look for this, you know, we still fall into that trap of like more expensive is better.
- 13:01Ekta Yadav: If my cream doesn't cost $150, it's not gonna do what I needed to do.
- 13:06Ekta Yadav: And I and I don't understand why we have that.
- 13:07Ekta Yadav: It's like the psychology is mind-boggling to me, you know, when I see that.
- 13:11Leitin Smith: So yeah, it's and I'm I'm guilty of it too.
- 13:13Leitin Smith: I love bougie products.
- 13:14Leitin Smith: I I and um I I used to do that, but since I became a content creator, I can't afford to do that all the time for videos.
- 13:20Leitin Smith: Especially when I don't you I don't end up using the products.
- 13:24Leitin Smith: I've got so the thing is I've I've got so many bougie products that I I did end up giving away because I couldn't consciously do a video on them.
- 13:31Leitin Smith: Like even if I liked the formula, I couldn't justify saying it's $300.
- 13:34Leitin Smith: Do you know what I mean?
- 13:35Leitin Smith: So they'll just I bought them and they sat there.
- 13:38Leitin Smith: They were good.
- 13:39Leitin Smith: That some of the form like uh there's lots of brands I like, but when it came to the price, I just didn't think it was worth it.
- 13:46Ekta Yadav: So I you know, I want to ask you because I know that they uh like a lot of chemists say, like for certain products, you need to make sure that it's not like a water-based formulation, you know, like because the active just won't be there, like it just won't work, you know.
- 14:01Ekta Yadav: Is that how much truth is in that kind of a logic with the the formulation side?
- 14:06Ekta Yadav: Like, you know, when is it that you need to have like an oil-based formula versus water-based?
- 14:11Ekta Yadav: And how big of a difference does it make in terms of like, I don't know, shelf life, efficacy, you know, like the being able to add like a certain percentage of ingredients and making sure that they're actually in there?
- 14:22Ekta Yadav: Like, I mean, have you noticed that there's like a difference or like peptides, right?
- 14:26Ekta Yadav: Like certain peptides.
- 14:28Ekta Yadav: I've heard this where people say, like, okay, if you have like a fully water-based kind of formulation, it doesn't have as many peptides in there as something that would be oil-based.
- 14:37Leitin Smith: Uh is it true?
- 14:38Leitin Smith: Uh, it depends on the peptides.
- 14:40Leitin Smith: So some peptides are water-based and they dissolve really well.
- 14:43Leitin Smith: Uh, and then some aren't, they dissolve better in in oils.
- 14:46Leitin Smith: It just depends on the peptides that you're doing.
- 14:48Leitin Smith: Uh, skin penetration is a big talk topic, and there should always be questions asked as to how you're getting that product into the skin.
- 14:54Leitin Smith: That is definitely a valid subject to be talking about.
- 14:57Leitin Smith: Yes, just popping peptides into a water-based serum or a lot of actors for that matter, and not having some type of penetration solution to that, whatever it might be.
- 15:07Leitin Smith: It could be encapsulation, it could be microneedling, it could be, you know, something.
- 15:11Leitin Smith: The formulation should, especially if you're paying good money for it, should let you know what their intention is to get that into the skin.
- 15:18Leitin Smith: So that a consumer can read that and be like, oh, okay, great, whatever it might be.
- 15:21Leitin Smith: And then they can make a decision about whether or not they're going to buy that.
- 15:24Leitin Smith: So when it comes to peptides, yes, definitely, because a lot of actives have a lot of difficulty getting through the skin.
- 15:29Leitin Smith: Whether you use something like urea to help with penetration or it's oxydiol or DMI or uh encapsulation like liposomes, or there's a huge amount of different encapsulation systems out there.
- 15:40Leitin Smith: Yes, I do think that a lot of actives do need to have some type of penetration system.
- 15:44Leitin Smith: And if it's just in a water-based serum, then I would ask questions.
- 15:47Leitin Smith: I wouldn't buy a peptide serum if it wasn't in some type of sense.
- 15:52Ekta Yadav: I asked you that because I really, really love your copper peptides.
- 15:55Ekta Yadav: Like I think it's one of the the best copper peptide serums on the market, like hands down.
- 15:59Ekta Yadav: And I have been absolutely obsessed with it.
- 16:02Ekta Yadav: I'm not gonna lie to you.
- 16:03Ekta Yadav: And it's really good and it's but brings up the whole conversation around copper peptides.
- 16:08Ekta Yadav: You know, like it's a great example of how like we have these like great biotic ingredients, but like we don't have the knowledge of understanding like what's actually gonna make them efficacious and like really able to work on our skin.
- 16:18Ekta Yadav: And I I would love for you to kind of speak on this topic, especially with that product specifically, because you formulated it so beautifully.
- 16:24Ekta Yadav: But I know there's a lot of conversation like online, people say if you use peptides with like acids, it's useless.
- 16:30Ekta Yadav: You know, they're gonna break apart.
- 16:32Ekta Yadav: Or if you use them right after vitamin C, it doesn't work.
- 16:35Ekta Yadav: I mean, what are what's your opinion there?
- 16:36Ekta Yadav: Is there a lot of truth there or is that all hype?
- 16:39Leitin Smith: There are some truths, and then there's some gaps in there where you sort of just have to make uh sort of come to the science, really like let's take, for example, vitamin C.
- 16:48Leitin Smith: The data on that is really only for ascorpic acid.
- 16:50Leitin Smith: It doesn't, there's no uh data for any derivatives, for example.
- 16:53Leitin Smith: But for a couple heptides, because they're so expensive, I normally just say keep it away from vitamin C because there is no data on it.
- 16:59Leitin Smith: They're quite expensive, but so to sort of just keep them separate.
- 17:02Leitin Smith: Unless, of course, you're using ascorpic acid.
- 17:04Leitin Smith: But if you're using derivatives, there's really no data that says that you can't use them with derivatives because it's all about ascorpic ascorpic acid.
- 17:11Leitin Smith: AHAs, it's really to do with the low pH within when it comes to A AHAs.
- 17:16Leitin Smith: The the risk I guess is that the GHKCU becomes disassociated or the the copper becomes disassociated, and then there's free copper roaming around in the skin, and then that can actually have a horrible effect on your skin and cause inflammation.
- 17:28Leitin Smith: So it's a recommendation, it's like it's like it's a guideline.
- 17:31Leitin Smith: I would definitely keep it away from ascorpic acid, but when it comes to derivatives, I usually do say don't use it, but there is no data on it.
- 17:38Leitin Smith: Because we don't really know how ascorbic acid, how it's converting within the skin, and whether or not it's going to cause any effects.
- 17:45Leitin Smith: And given the price of it, I just think it's that's just usually what I would recommend.
- 17:49Leitin Smith: But I get from a science perspective that there's no real certainty around that.
- 17:54Ekta Yadav: That's the I know, and that's the honestly, that's where I get stuck, is like people always say, Well, there's no data.
- 17:59Ekta Yadav: And I'm like, why aren't we generating the data?
- 18:01Ekta Yadav: Like I always wonder that about companies like L'Oreal and like the big ones.
- 18:04Ekta Yadav: I'm like, let's get this data, you know, like let's let's test everything under the sun and see like what are, you know, what's reacting with what and all that.
- 18:11Ekta Yadav: And I I just always wonder, you know, because we have these ongoing debates all the time.
- 18:15Ekta Yadav: It's like I see it with copper peptides, I see it with like retinol and retinoids in general, and there's so many ingredients like that, right?
- 18:22Ekta Yadav: Where it's like what's really going on with the synergy of different ingredients.
- 18:25Ekta Yadav: So that's why I asked, but that's interesting.
- 18:28Leitin Smith: Everyone with skin's so different as well.
- 18:29Leitin Smith: And this is the thing is that like the way that products affect people's skin, like I I can exfoliate, for example, I can exfoliate, retinoid, do retinoids all in the same routine.
- 18:38Leitin Smith: Never really bothered me, but that's because I've got a really good skin barrier.
- 18:42Leitin Smith: Like I take and I understand my skin, so I know when it's going to be triggered and when it's not, so I know when to stop.
- 18:46Leitin Smith: Whereas I know that doesn't apply to a lot of people because their skin can be quite reactive.
- 18:51Leitin Smith: So there's also that as well that comes into play, I think, with a lot of these things.
- 18:54Leitin Smith: But with specifically with copper peptides, I usually do recommend just to keep them separate just because the the data isn't there to say otherwise.
- 19:02Leitin Smith: And plus because of the cost of the the couple peptides, why risk it?
- 19:06Leitin Smith: Even I only use the couple peptides at nighttime.
- 19:08Leitin Smith: Uh, and I usually keep it away from my ANHAs.
- 19:10Ekta Yadav: That makes sense.
- 19:11Ekta Yadav: Yeah, no, that makes sense.
- 19:12Ekta Yadav: I mean, it honestly, it's at the end of the day, it's all about like trying to.
- 19:15Ekta Yadav: I think the consumer now just wants to understand the science.
- 19:18Ekta Yadav: That's that's my opinion.
- 19:19Ekta Yadav: You know, people are more curious now than ever about, well, how do things interact, you know, because we never talked about that before.
- 19:26Ekta Yadav: Like five years ago, I remember like going to Sephora and I was like, I don't even know, like, I don't know what any of this stuff is, you know, and I was just like blindly buying things, but now I'm like reading the ingredient list.
- 19:35Ekta Yadav: I'm trying to figure out like what's the synergy.
- 19:38Ekta Yadav: And you know, it's like we've evolved so much as a consumer base that it just makes you wonder like, where is that limit of understanding like the ingredient synergy and like it doesn't matter after a certain point, you know, especially when it comes to formulas that are like a lot of different things packed into one formula.
- 19:53Ekta Yadav: That's another big question I have for you is like in your opinion, where is that limit of like how many ingredients you can add into like one formulation where it's gonna still be effective and it's going to really deliver, you know, on its promise?
- 20:04Ekta Yadav: Or do you think there's no such thing?
- 20:06Leitin Smith: You can add, you can add in the thing is is you have to think of the marketing side as well that a lot of companies go through.
- 20:10Leitin Smith: So they don't use a lot of ingredients because they can't sell it.
- 20:13Leitin Smith: Do you know what I mean?
- 20:14Leitin Smith: So they will usually have a hero ingredient.
- 20:16Leitin Smith: If they add in 10 ingredients, that might be good for your skin, but they don't need it because from a marketing perspective, there's no point because they how are they going to sell 10 ingredients?
- 20:25Leitin Smith: So they just stick to the few hero ingredients and that's it.
- 20:28Leitin Smith: You can fit quite a bit into a formulation.
- 20:30Leitin Smith: My LSP exam uh, for example, the the defense serum, I couldn't fit all of that and it would be uh into one serum.
- 20:36Leitin Smith: I had to create two separate serums because there's so many active ingredients.
- 20:39Leitin Smith: So there are times where you can't, but if you look at the formulation, there's a lot in there.
- 20:43Leitin Smith: Plus, there were two different types of systems as well.
- 20:46Leitin Smith: And this is why so many people's skincare is like super long, is because they do need all these different products to get all the different benefits.
- 20:52Leitin Smith: Do you know what I mean?
- 20:53Leitin Smith: So you got a 20-step skincare routine.
- 20:54Leitin Smith: You can slim that down quite a bit, but it's difficult to find a product that has all the stuff that you're looking for in it.
- 20:59Leitin Smith: Not that you can't get it, it's just that's the way it is.
- 21:02Ekta Yadav: Piggybacking off of this, like I want to ask you about like hyperpigmentation products and like formulating them.
- 21:07Ekta Yadav: Like, in your opinion, like what's the toughest part about like a high good hyperpigmentation product, like to formulate?
- 21:14Leitin Smith: So you've obviously got your sunscreen that's gonna be your best defense that uh on one side, then you've got your retinoid on the other side, which is gonna help clear out that pigment with sour renewal, right?
- 21:23Leitin Smith: And there's this whole gap in between of what happens after you've got oxidative stress that happens.
- 21:28Leitin Smith: There's so many different ingredients across the spectrum that hit different things.
- 21:31Leitin Smith: There's no real one product out there that hits all those parts.
- 21:33Leitin Smith: And what do I mean by that is that when UV light hits the skin, it's gonna create oxidative stress.
- 21:37Leitin Smith: Well, there's single oxygen and then there's superoxide, two different forms of reactive oxygen species.
- 21:43Leitin Smith: Different actives can help with like quenching singular oxygen, and then you've also got um ingredients that can upregulate superoxide dismutase.
- 21:51Leitin Smith: That's one part of it.
- 21:52Leitin Smith: Then you've got like carmine.
- 21:54Leitin Smith: So when you're looking at carmine, what are the ingredients that are going to help down regulate cytokines and uh help reduce?
- 21:59Leitin Smith: MNPs, which is something that will degrade collagen.
- 22:02Leitin Smith: That's another component of it.
- 22:04Leitin Smith: And then you've got things that disrupt the pathway that triggers the melanocytes.
- 22:08Leitin Smith: That's another part of it.
- 22:08Leitin Smith: There's not a product really out there that don't get me wrong, they've got peptides in it, but they will they will sort of do different parts of that process, but don't hit all of them.
- 22:16Leitin Smith: You've got obviously melanocyte control, which is tyrosinase inhibitors, but tyrosinase inhibitors is just one of them.
- 22:20Leitin Smith: You can disrupt other pathways within the melanocytes, and then you've got the transfer of the pigment into the skin cells.
- 22:26Leitin Smith: That's another, which is nysinamite's a good one for that one.
- 22:29Leitin Smith: So that's the problem that you got with hyperpigmentation.
- 22:31Leitin Smith: There's quite a lot that goes on into that.
- 22:33Leitin Smith: That's why you need so many different ingredients to sort of tackle it.
- 22:36Leitin Smith: That's a difficult part of hyperpigmentation, is reducing inflammation.
- 22:40Leitin Smith: And this is the part I don't think people really quite appreciate.
- 22:42Leitin Smith: I think people so focus on the melanocytes.
- 22:44Leitin Smith: There's so much you can do to calm the skin before you even get to that stage.
- 22:48Leitin Smith: And it's all simplified in an antioxidant serum.
- 22:50Leitin Smith: And I think it's drowned out a little bit, but trying to give yourself as much protection after the sunlight hits your skin for any residual, I think it's in such an important part.
- 22:58Ekta Yadav: Yeah, yeah.
- 22:59Ekta Yadav: No, that's a really, really good point.
- 23:00Ekta Yadav: And thank you for that.
- 23:01Ekta Yadav: Because that's the question like we get a lot, you know, here at Skin Anarchy, a lot of people dealing with hyperpigmentation.
- 23:06Ekta Yadav: And it's like there are so many consumers that have tried like so many products, you know, and they've done the single target, they've done the multi-target.
- 23:13Ekta Yadav: And it's always an uphill battle with hyperpigmentation.
- 23:16Ekta Yadav: And it's like kind of feeding into what you just said and explained is like hitting all of those pathways at once, it just makes you wonder.
- 23:23Ekta Yadav: And I feel like a lot of times, like that's where we start underserving communities of consumers, you know, like a lot of people who have like Fitzpatrick 4, Fitzpatrick 5, like it's very difficult to find that product.
- 23:35Ekta Yadav: And like I just wonder, like from the formulation side, like how difficult it must be to try to formulate that like perfect hyperpigmentation serum, you know what I mean?
- 23:44Ekta Yadav: And doing your due diligence as a chemist, like I'm gonna fix this problem, that kind of thing.
- 23:48Ekta Yadav: So yeah.
- 23:49Leitin Smith: Do you know what the formulation part's a little bit more easier for me?
- 23:52Leitin Smith: Trying to explain it's the hard part.
- 23:53Leitin Smith: So I'll be sitting down doing the marketing material for the LXP defense serum and trying to use terms, and I get really excited.
- 24:00Leitin Smith: Like superoxide dysputase excites me.
- 24:02Leitin Smith: And you see sod, but I'm using EEK134.
- 24:05Leitin Smith: It's so technical that you people's eyes will just glaze over.
- 24:08Leitin Smith: I'm sure in time it will be as people start because I know people have heard ROS or React.
- 24:12Leitin Smith: No one, I don't think anyone really understands it because it's not spoken about enough.
- 24:17Leitin Smith: I think the hardest part for me is trying to sell a product that has quite a lot of cool stuff in it, but not many people hear about the terms and all that kind of thing.
- 24:26Leitin Smith: So that's my biggest difficulty.
- 24:28Ekta Yadav: That makes sense.
- 24:28Ekta Yadav: It makes sense.
- 24:29Ekta Yadav: And and you know, it's it's hard to explain complex science.
- 24:32Ekta Yadav: So I I feel your I feel your struggle.
- 24:34Ekta Yadav: But I think we're getting there though, right, Leitin?
- 24:36Ekta Yadav: I mean, I I have like hope.
- 24:37Leitin Smith: Oh, 100%.
- 24:38Leitin Smith: Yeah.
- 24:39Leitin Smith: The one thing I love about the beauty community is that they are so knowledgeable, they will ask you questions, they want to know the information.
- 24:45Leitin Smith: And I love that because although this industry is really crowded, it's not for those that are trying to make a mark.
- 24:51Leitin Smith: And that's honestly, that's what keeps me up.
- 24:53Leitin Smith: That's the only reason why I created the Couple Pip Tite Syrup.
- 24:55Leitin Smith: That's the only reason why I created the LSP, is because people were so interested in it.
- 25:00Leitin Smith: So it's sort of motivates me.
- 25:01Ekta Yadav: I love that.
- 25:02Ekta Yadav: No, I, you know, I really, really, really love how you approach your brand.
- 25:06Ekta Yadav: I mean, obviously, in so many ways, like the science is very solid, but also like your marketing, like you're not doing any fluff marketing.
- 25:12Ekta Yadav: It's not science washing.
- 25:14Ekta Yadav: It's not, you know what I mean?
- 25:15Ekta Yadav: Like that whole culture of like overpromising, going above and beyond.
- 25:20Ekta Yadav: And I really want to talk to you about this because I feel like this new generation of like chemists and formulators, like you guys are really being mindful about this stuff, you know?
- 25:28Ekta Yadav: And I really admire that because I think for so long as consumers, we've obviously spent our money, but it's also led to so much distrust in the aesthetic industry.
- 25:38Ekta Yadav: You know, like it's like it's completely fed this narrative of like, well, we can't even trust what dermatologists are pushing out anymore.
- 25:46Ekta Yadav: We can't trust anybody anymore because it's all a lie.
- 25:48Ekta Yadav: And I would love for you to just speak on this topic because I know it's difficult.
- 25:52Ekta Yadav: You know what I mean?
- 25:53Ekta Yadav: The marketing component of having a brand.
- 25:54Ekta Yadav: How do you approach your marketing?
- 25:56Leitin Smith: I don't really have a plan.
- 25:57Leitin Smith: To be entirely honest, I don't really sell my products.
- 26:00Leitin Smith: A lot of people start asking me to talk more about products.
- 26:03Leitin Smith: I don't really, at least of course I'm launching a product.
- 26:05Leitin Smith: Uh, then I'll take people on that journey from my there's a horrible marketing plan.
- 26:09Leitin Smith: I don't suggest anyone do it.
- 26:10Leitin Smith: Oh, actually, it's working for me.
- 26:11Leitin Smith: Uh look, I let my customers speak about it.
- 26:13Leitin Smith: Uh, my customer, like, I create formulations that I love, but because I know that everyone's skin type is so different, and I'm just like that person, like, just try it and see how you go.
- 26:21Leitin Smith: Even with my friends, I said, look, even when I give it all my friends buy, I said, look, I know everyone's skin is different.
- 26:26Leitin Smith: If you don't like it, totally fine, I won't be offended.
- 26:28Leitin Smith: And you know, my marketing strategy has always just been, I don't have a marketing strategy, I'll be honest.
- 26:33Leitin Smith: To be entirely fair, I think cosmetic chemist-based formulations are where it's at.
- 26:37Leitin Smith: And there's a number of reasons why I say that.
- 26:40Leitin Smith: The private label industry is massive.
- 26:42Leitin Smith: Even I don't care if you're a dermatologist or a doctor that has a skincare brand, it doesn't really bother me.
- 26:48Leitin Smith: It doesn't impress me because as long as you've created the formula, as long as you got knee deep in the ingredients, do you know what I mean?
- 26:54Leitin Smith: Because understanding, I I struggle even now trying to get through all of the clinical data, uh, and I'm in this job full-time.
- 27:01Leitin Smith: So if you're not in the job full-time and you're creating formulations, did you select those ingredients because the high?
- 27:06Leitin Smith: How many ingredients did you scope to come up with that solution?
- 27:09Leitin Smith: The other thing, as well, is that when you layer in how how much it costs to produce a product, did you formulate your product because it was good or did you formulate it because that's all you could afford?
- 27:20Leitin Smith: These are different.
- 27:21Leitin Smith: It's like creativity is best when it's not capped.
- 27:25Leitin Smith: That's why I don't formulate with a price.
- 27:27Leitin Smith: And I often will go, oh my god, this is so expensive.
- 27:30Leitin Smith: Because if I was led by price, I wouldn't produce a good formula.
- 27:33Ekta Yadav: Yeah.
- 27:34Leitin Smith: Um the other thing, as well, with cosmetic chemists is they have access to ingredients, especially if they formulate them in-house, they can often produce a better outcome than someone in retail could.
- 27:44Leitin Smith: I know my formulations are so good at the prices that they are.
- 27:46Leitin Smith: I I don't think anyone could compete with me based on the formulators that I've got, unless it was another cosmetic chemist that was doing it in-house.
- 27:52Leitin Smith: But from a retail perspective, I would argue like try and keep up with my price.
- 27:56Leitin Smith: Like, even my perfect toner, they're selling that at a 30 mil for the same price.
- 28:00Leitin Smith: These brands out there that are selling similar formulation lines for the same price but just for 30 mils, and I sell mine for 150 mils.
- 28:07Leitin Smith: And that's purely because I formulated it myself.
- 28:10Leitin Smith: I source the ingredients myself, I manufactured them in-house, and I don't have a huge overhead when it comes to distribution or that kind of thing.
- 28:17Ekta Yadav: Yeah, and you know, that actually brings up a really interesting question for me.
- 28:20Ekta Yadav: When you're sourcing your ingredients, what are some of the things you really look for?
- 28:24Ekta Yadav: Like in the supplier, like do you have like your favorite like set of companies that you source from?
- 28:29Ekta Yadav: Or like how do you kind of sift through that and and figure out like what ingredient is really going to perform the best?
- 28:34Leitin Smith: That's a hard one because you just get them in and see what excites you.
- 28:37Leitin Smith: I source my ingredients all over.
- 28:39Leitin Smith: I've got so many different suppliers from China to France to to here in Australia.
- 28:43Leitin Smith: So usually ingredient, not always, uh, I do deal with companies direct as well.
- 28:47Leitin Smith: Ingredient supplies direct, but a lot of ingredient suppliers go through a distributor, and then you deal with the distributor to get those ingredients.
- 28:53Leitin Smith: As a cosmetic chemist, the best thing that you do is be present and go to you know the expos, events, any events that people adopt with ingredients because you've you've got to constantly learn.
- 29:02Leitin Smith: This is this industry is evolving so quickly, and there's so many great ideas as well, things that you never think of.
- 29:08Leitin Smith: So, how do I source my ingredients?
- 29:09Leitin Smith: Uh, having great relationships is essential for formulation because you rely on these people to keep you abreast of really innovative new things that are coming out, but also emerging trends as well that are coming up in the industry, like neurocosmetics, for example.
- 29:22Leitin Smith: I think that's going to be a big thing in the future, which is uh what uh you know, stress-related.
- 29:26Leitin Smith: A big thing in skincare.
- 29:27Leitin Smith: And I because I was going through a breakup for the last 12 months, uh, and people go through glow-ups, right?
- 29:32Leitin Smith: Why do people go through glow-ups?
- 29:33Leitin Smith: Or and it doesn't need to be a breakup, it could be like a traumatic family event or whatever.
- 29:38Leitin Smith: It's the stress.
- 29:38Leitin Smith: Do you know what I mean?
- 29:39Leitin Smith: And and I remember while I was in that relationship, as much skincare as I had, my just face looked tired.
- 29:45Leitin Smith: And that's the stress part of it.
- 29:47Leitin Smith: And it's not until you remove that stress that then your skin is able to bounce back.
- 29:51Leitin Smith: And so I'm keenly interested in it, you know what I mean?
- 29:54Leitin Smith: And there's some really cool things that are coming out in the skill in the skincare industry about it.
- 29:58Ekta Yadav: Speaking of which, what is the most exciting like biotech innovation that you've been like kind of looking at or that's come across your desk that you've been like, oh, this is interesting.
- 30:08Leitin Smith: The thing that came out of with when I was at Paris for the uh beauty at uh in cost cosmetics, they've got like cyclic peptides, which I think were quite interesting.
- 30:16Leitin Smith: Uh also that's where I was sort of getting more interested about neurocosmetics as well.
- 30:21Leitin Smith: PDRN was making is like everywhere.
- 30:24Leitin Smith: Do you know what exosomes I think is interesting to me, even though I know that that's got a lot of it's more look, I've got I understand everyone's concerns, but I'm I'm still like fascinated by it.
- 30:34Leitin Smith: Growth factors, that's really interesting to me as well.
- 30:37Leitin Smith: Um more from a micro-needling perspective, because there's a huge concern with that being used topically, but more for after treatment sort of serums.
- 30:43Leitin Smith: Yeah.
- 30:44Leitin Smith: So growth factors, exosomes, something that I'm really keenly interested in, neurocosmetics, and something that I'm exploring a little bit more of, but need to do a bit more research on is cyclic peptides as well.
- 30:53Ekta Yadav: Cyclic peptides are so interesting to me.
- 30:56Ekta Yadav: I am obsessed with understanding, and you know, it's really cool because I feel like the peptide world, it's like there's just so much we have not done yet.
- 31:04Ekta Yadav: Like the synthetic company, like the companies making the synthetic peptides, I'm just like so geeked out over that stuff because I'm like, oh my god, you know, like you can bottle receptor binding and you know, all that cool stuff.
- 31:15Ekta Yadav: So very cool.
- 31:16Leitin Smith: Well, you know, we wanna, we wanna, we want more ingredients that we know that can get into the skin and do their things right.
- 31:20Leitin Smith: So that's why it keenly interests me.
- 31:22Leitin Smith: Because there are some issues with peptides, you know, not getting through the skin.
- 31:25Leitin Smith: Do they get to the receptors properly, all that kind of stuff?
- 31:27Leitin Smith: So it interests me because it's just it's just a newer innovation that's sort of coming out.
- 31:32Leitin Smith: And oh, it's been around for a while, but then this is the thing, right?
- 31:34Leitin Smith: From a perspective that you're like, now we're gonna have discussions between the difference between a linear peptide and a cyclic peptide.
- 31:40Ekta Yadav: Yeah, yeah, it's coming.
- 31:41Ekta Yadav: Get ready, it's coming.
- 31:43Ekta Yadav: Yeah.
- 31:43Ekta Yadav: All the uh social media posts, you know, people arguing back and forth.
- 31:47Ekta Yadav: But you know, it that's the cool thing.
- 31:48Ekta Yadav: You know, I Leitin, honestly, for me as a scientist, I look at this space and I'm just like, this is so cool because it's one of the only spaces where we can have these like conversations, you know, like constantly about science.
- 32:00Ekta Yadav: Like I literally go online and I learn something every time.
- 32:03Ekta Yadav: And I'm like, oh, I didn't know.
- 32:04Ekta Yadav: Like, you know, there's like a toxicologist that's making a video, and I'm like, I didn't know that, you know, about and and that's where I feel like skincare, like if it's so much more than like cosmetics or like beauty, you know, like it becomes this like it's a culture, it's a culture of science.
- 32:18Ekta Yadav: That's what it is.
- 32:18Ekta Yadav: And I think that's what intrigues me so much about this space.
- 32:21Ekta Yadav: And I and I get excited when I see people that are like the way you're you're carrying yourself with your brand.
- 32:26Ekta Yadav: You know, it's like it's about the innovation with you, you know, it's about creating formulas that have efficacy behind them.
- 32:33Ekta Yadav: That's exciting, you know?
- 32:34Ekta Yadav: And I really, really just I I feel like as an industry, like we have to protect that.
- 32:37Ekta Yadav: Like we have to protect that.
- 32:39Ekta Yadav: And what you said, I could not agree more.
- 32:40Ekta Yadav: I wanted to say something like you were like the cosmetic chemists that are formulating and they're making their own products.
- 32:45Ekta Yadav: These are gonna be some of the best products you have.
- 32:47Ekta Yadav: 100%.
- 32:48Leitin Smith: So because I think a lot of people, I think a lot of brands are just chasing money, or even me, like even when I could think about going into retail, I feel like I'll sell my soul because it'll no longer become about formulating, it'll become become about price margins.
- 33:00Leitin Smith: You know what I mean?
- 33:00Leitin Smith: It's just from what I understand about my industry and what goes into pricing and all that kind of thing.
- 33:05Leitin Smith: Like even like the copper peptides, for anyone to make that, it would have to be a massive company just to just to even meet the minimum order quantities.
- 33:13Leitin Smith: You know what I mean?
- 33:14Leitin Smith: But the reason why I could bring that to market is because the only reason why I could bring that to market, like let's say if you went to a contract manufacturer, they would have a minimum order quantity.
- 33:22Leitin Smith: You'd have to buy each and every one of those ingredients in bulk.
- 33:24Leitin Smith: That's incredibly expensive.
- 33:26Leitin Smith: You know what I mean?
- 33:27Leitin Smith: So to bring that formulation to life, you'd have to have hundreds of thousands of dollars.
- 33:31Leitin Smith: Do you know what I mean?
- 33:32Leitin Smith: Just to meet those minimum order quantities.
- 33:33Leitin Smith: And the the lucky thing with me is that I can bring it to life on a small scale, see if it there's market adoption, and then see if it's going to do well.
- 33:40Leitin Smith: So I'm not too scared about even though it's still expensive to bring up a product.
- 33:44Leitin Smith: I think, you know, even the LXP, I'm like, oh I've still got a few bills to pay on that one.
- 33:50Ekta Yadav: It is, you're right.
- 33:51Ekta Yadav: It is, it's extremely extremely expensive.
- 33:54Ekta Yadav: And I think that's like for me as a consumer, like that's why I value like like chemists who are making their formulas and they're getting the peptides.
- 34:01Ekta Yadav: I know how expensive it is for you guys to source that, you know, and then to you have to use it.
- 34:05Ekta Yadav: Like you have to use the whole thing, and then you have to make sure it sells, you know, that's like a huge risk.
- 34:10Ekta Yadav: And I feel like no one talks about that.
- 34:12Ekta Yadav: No one talks about like that side of the business where it's like this person has put real money on the line because they know this is a great product and it's going, it should sell.
- 34:22Ekta Yadav: I wish more consumers knew about that, honestly.
- 34:24Leitin Smith: Yeah, they don't.
- 34:25Leitin Smith: And I I think when once you sort of understand a little bit more, you can sort of see, oh, okay, that's why whenever I go into Mecca, I try my hardest to buy something and I just can't because I look at everything and I'm trying to look for that innovative product.
- 34:36Leitin Smith: And the ones that I'm interested in are like $400.
- 34:38Leitin Smith: I'm like, no, don't do that.
- 34:39Leitin Smith: But yes, no, from a development perspective, I feel that cosmetic chemists are where the formulations are at at the moment, especially if you want something affordable that's got stuff in it.
- 34:48Leitin Smith: And I don't want to say retail products don't take my fancy.
- 34:51Leitin Smith: It's just I just know that the price doesn't match my standards.
- 34:54Ekta Yadav: No, it's I I think that's fair.
- 34:56Ekta Yadav: And, you know, honestly, for everyone listening, like I've tried your formulas, you know, and I and I can tell the difference.
- 35:01Ekta Yadav: I think that's one of the things.
- 35:02Ekta Yadav: Like, I don't know if your your opinion on this, but for me, it's like at this stage where we are now in the industry, your skincare should make a difference.
- 35:10Ekta Yadav: And you should be able to see that difference.
- 35:11Ekta Yadav: It doesn't have to be like, you know what I mean, like overnight, like crazy results, but you should be able to tell that it did something for you.
- 35:18Ekta Yadav: And if you can't see that, then you have wasted your money and you've been sold a lot.
- 35:22Ekta Yadav: And I genuinely, I believe that at this point because of exactly what we're talking about.
- 35:26Ekta Yadav: There are so many amazing scientists out here that are doing their due diligence, they're putting their hard-earned money into this, and we keep skimming over this because of conglomerates, you know what I mean, of these giant companies that are just like lying to us every day.
- 35:40Ekta Yadav: I made a video, I don't know, on my TikTok, I made a video and I was like reviewing like one of the big companies, you know, like the the big like the L'Oreals of the world knows a drugstore product.
- 35:48Ekta Yadav: I was recording it and I'm like, hey guys, look, it has Matrixel or Geraline, it has all of the buzzy peptide names.
- 35:54Ekta Yadav: But guess what?
- 35:55Ekta Yadav: Everything is at the bottom of the inky list.
- 35:57Ekta Yadav: So you're spending $30 on a drugstore product and you're gonna get nothing for it.
- 36:03Ekta Yadav: Like it's gonna do nothing for you.
- 36:05Ekta Yadav: You know, at some point it becomes like, okay, obviously, we have to vote with our dollars, but we have to really like I feel like now more than ever, like consumers have to really, really vote with our dollars at this point because it's just it's like buying a lie versus buying efficacy.
- 36:20Ekta Yadav: Like that's my opinion, you know.
- 36:21Leitin Smith: And I think so too.
- 36:22Leitin Smith: And I think look, there are brands definitely out there that are really doing it well.
- 36:26Leitin Smith: They are there if you're willing to not get caught up in the brands.
- 36:29Leitin Smith: Do you know what I mean?
- 36:31Leitin Smith: And do you know what?
- 36:31Leitin Smith: This is actually interesting.
- 36:32Leitin Smith: Sometimes I will come across a product where it is expensive, but I don't care about the price, I just like it.
- 36:37Leitin Smith: But they're very far and few between.
- 36:40Leitin Smith: But yeah, I agree with you on this one.
- 36:42Leitin Smith: I think this is the unfortunate part of the cosmetic industry.
- 36:44Leitin Smith: There are a lot of brands that are charging either a lot of money and you're not getting what you you're paying for, or you're spending the cheaper products and they're overpromising and there's like literally nothing in it.
- 36:55Leitin Smith: Which is, I think, which for me is a lot to do with Korean skincare.
- 36:59Leitin Smith: Like, don't get me wrong, I I do love that they're affordable and a lot of people have access to Korean skincare.
- 37:06Leitin Smith: And there is actually, to be entirely honest, I'd rather recommend Korean skincare to a lot of people than some of the bougie of French brands, for example.
- 37:13Leitin Smith: You know, they're not they're also not cheap either when you think about it, like when you're for what you're buying for a lot of these things.
- 37:18Leitin Smith: Because what you said before, you're not getting all the so when you're paying $30 and you're getting like this amount in it, you know, it's not, it's it's it's an expensive product for nothing in it.
- 37:26Leitin Smith: So yeah.
- 37:27Ekta Yadav: No, I I couldn't agree with you more.
- 37:29Ekta Yadav: I think that it's just it's just an interesting time in the industry.
- 37:32Ekta Yadav: You know, I I get very excited when I find brands that are are made with just like truly like science in mind.
- 37:38Ekta Yadav: And I think for a lot of our listeners, I know it's you guys out there, they're always asking us, you know, and what works, what's gonna actually work.
- 37:45Ekta Yadav: That's why I uh shouted out your copper peptide serum because it works.
- 37:49Ekta Yadav: It works, it actually works.
- 37:50Ekta Yadav: And people ask questions about those kind of ingredients like is it hype or is there a real efficacy?
- 37:56Ekta Yadav: Even though we know it comes from serious wound healing research.
- 37:59Ekta Yadav: GHK copper comes from genuinely good research and it can work, but you have to also look at the person who's formulating, you have to look at how they formulate the percentages that matters.
- 38:09Ekta Yadav: And I just feel like we have to vote with our dollars at this point.
- 38:11Ekta Yadav: You know, we got to make that statement as a consumer base.
- 38:14Ekta Yadav: So yeah.
- 38:14Leitin Smith: Yeah, no, you're right.
- 38:15Leitin Smith: I agree with you on that one.
- 38:16Leitin Smith: No, it's a it's a it's a fantastic industry, the cosmetic industry.
- 38:19Leitin Smith: I I don't think I'll ever get bored a day in my life in this job, but you know, Everyone always keeps me on my toes, and I love that.
- 38:26Ekta Yadav: I love that.
- 38:26Ekta Yadav: Well, thank you so much, Leitin.
- 38:28Ekta Yadav: This was awesome, and you are awesome and your your brand is amazing.
- 38:31Ekta Yadav: I really truly am just in love with it.
- 38:33Ekta Yadav: And I for everyone listening, you guys gotta go check it out.
- 38:35Ekta Yadav: Scroll down and um you'll see the link in the bio.
- 38:38Ekta Yadav: But thank you so much, Leitin.
- 38:39Ekta Yadav: This is awesome.
- 38:39Leitin Smith: Thanks for having me.
- 38:40Leitin Smith: I really appreciate it.
- 38:41Ekta Yadav: Yeah, it's a pleasure.
- 38:42Ekta Yadav: Thank you.