288. Koa Smith: You're Facing Your Fear the Wrong Way. A Top Big-Wave Surfer's Method

The Ultimate Human with Gary Brecka · Jul 21, 2026 · 1h

You think some people are just born without fear, but my guest Koa Smith has spent 15 years paddling into waves big enough to kill him, and he'll tell you the opposite: fear never leaves, the whole game is what you do when it shows up. After a reef injury knocked him unconscious underwater and left him eight months numb, depressed, and unable to get a straight answer from a doctor, he clawed his way back with forest time, breathwork, meditation, clean food, and real sleep instead of a prescription. This isn't really a surfing video, it's about the same fear that keeps you from a hard…