Latest / Skin Anarchy / Trust and Transparency in Green Beauty: An Insight with Blissoma’s Founder, Julie Longyear
Transcript
- 0:00SPEAKER_00: Hey guys, welcome back to Pinker Anarchy.
- 0:02SPEAKER_00: This is your host Vecta.
- 0:03SPEAKER_00: I am so excited about introducing me to the brand today that we are featuring and highlighting.
- 0:08SPEAKER_00: I've always been a consumer that's really interested in like the botany, the medical botany, the herbalism.
- 0:15SPEAKER_00: I really love either beta, like the plant side of things when it comes to my wellness products, healthcare products, or even like obviously skincare products, as we talk about here.
- 0:24SPEAKER_00: And so the brand I'm interviewing today, I feel like is a really cool hybrid between the science meets the herbalism.
- 0:30SPEAKER_00: So without further ado, I want to introduce you guys to the founder of Blusoma, Julie Longyear.
- 0:35SPEAKER_00: Welcome to the show, Julie.
- 0:36SPEAKER_00: I'm so excited to chat with you and to learn from you and more of the brand.
- 0:40SPEAKER_01: I am delighted to be here, and it's always fun having conversations with other smart and nerdy people who like science.
- 0:47SPEAKER_00: Yeah, no, I completely agree.
- 0:48SPEAKER_00: No, I really can't wait because as we were chatting earlier, if we were listening, you know, Julie and I were discussing how much there is to talk about in this space of like ergalism and all the things I mentioned in the intro.
- 0:59SPEAKER_00: And so I can't wait to dive into that.
- 1:01SPEAKER_00: But I would love to learn about you, Julie, and how you know you got into skincare, the background, and all the fun stuff leading up to the brand, if you don't mind.
- 1:10SPEAKER_01: Yeah, absolutely.
- 1:11SPEAKER_01: So I am a bit of an unlikely beauty entrepreneur, quote unquote.
- 1:14SPEAKER_01: I it wasn't like when I was younger, I dreamed that I would be running a skincare brand.
- 1:20SPEAKER_01: I, although I did used to sit in the bathtub as a kid and like blend my soaps together and make little commercials for them.
- 1:28SPEAKER_01: So I mean, maybe there was a hint of what was to come in those experiences.
- 1:32SPEAKER_01: But basically, I've always had a very experimental exploratory mind.
- 1:36SPEAKER_01: I love just trying things, you know, where other people sometimes fear failure.
- 1:40SPEAKER_01: I'm like, let's try it and see.
- 1:43SPEAKER_01: And I mean, sometimes that still gets frustrating when like an emotional science.
- 1:48SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 1:48SPEAKER_00: That's awesome.
- 1:49SPEAKER_00: Absolutely.
- 1:49SPEAKER_01: I love it.
- 1:50SPEAKER_01: And I love that personal experience.
- 1:51SPEAKER_01: Like, you know, when somebody when somebody else tells me something, I'm like, okay, cool.
- 1:55SPEAKER_01: But then when I have that personal experience with it, it means so much more to me.
- 1:59SPEAKER_01: So I really love the direct experience that I get with the plants these days.
- 2:03SPEAKER_01: But I mean, I I basically started off as someone who really didn't know what they wanted to do with their lives that I was interested in too many things.
- 2:11SPEAKER_01: And life kind of guided me very strongly at first.
- 2:14SPEAKER_01: So I get chronic migraines and started getting those while I was still in college.
- 2:19SPEAKER_01: So I like as a child never got them.
- 2:21SPEAKER_01: But then in college I started getting them.
- 2:23SPEAKER_01: I was about 19 at the time they started hitting, and I mean it was a big deal.
- 2:26SPEAKER_01: Like I was getting about 20 headache days a month.
- 2:29SPEAKER_01: And so that substantially changed the course of my life because basically I did make it through school, but it was very difficult to hold down any kind of routine.
- 2:38SPEAKER_00: Yeah, it's like debilitating.
- 2:39SPEAKER_00: I mean, that's debilitating to have.
- 2:41SPEAKER_00: I I I've got some friends who had like really bad migraines, but that's crazy.
- 2:45SPEAKER_00: That's wow.
- 2:46SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 2:46SPEAKER_01: And I mean, realistically, like I went to neurologists, they really couldn't tell me much.
- 2:51SPEAKER_01: Basically, the answer that I got initially was it's a dominant gene, runs in families, and my grandmother did get them chronically.
- 2:57SPEAKER_01: So it was like, oh, you're just this is what you're gonna be dealing with for the rest of your life.
- 3:01SPEAKER_01: And I was like, that is not a very good answer.
- 3:04SPEAKER_01: I don't think I like that.
- 3:05SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 3:06SPEAKER_01: I basically, after about three years of playing the game the regular medical systems way, I was like, these daily meds are not helping me.
- 3:15SPEAKER_01: I just feel like a zombie.
- 3:16SPEAKER_01: I'm not cool with this.
- 3:18SPEAKER_01: I'm gonna go figure things out more so on my own.
- 3:20SPEAKER_01: And I mean, it took a long time, you know, when you're out on your own just trying stuff, you know, but between lifestyle, herbs, acupuncture, you know, getting older, getting my body a little bit more balanced, trauma therapy, all kinds of stuff.
- 3:33SPEAKER_01: Then I figured out I clenched my teeth at night.
- 3:35SPEAKER_01: So I got a mouth guard for that.
- 3:37SPEAKER_01: But it has been in large part a lot of times ballistic self-care that has really helped me have a life at all.
- 3:45SPEAKER_01: And that's really what led me into herbalism in the first place was those health challenges.
- 3:49SPEAKER_01: And then when I started having skin problems as a result of like reacting to lots of different cosmetic ingredients, I took that information and kind of took it to the next level, you know, in solving that problem.
- 4:03SPEAKER_01: So I I just have never been satisfied with sitting around and accepting things like this is just the way things are.
- 4:08SPEAKER_01: I'm like, there's not something better out there.
- 4:11SPEAKER_01: So I'm continuing to do that, you know, striving for better and better every day in my work.
- 4:16SPEAKER_01: That's sometimes very difficult, but you know, you just have to try.
- 4:19SPEAKER_00: So yeah, no, I love that you have this.
- 4:22SPEAKER_00: I mean, I don't love that you had to go through what you went through, the you know, the amount of pain and struggle with any kind of health, I feel like health condition, much less something that impacts your day-to-day that often, you know.
- 4:33SPEAKER_00: And so I am but I am grateful that you did kind of I I hate the word take it into your own hands, but I I really believe in in anyone who suffers.
- 4:43SPEAKER_00: Like I, you know, I tell patients this too, like, if you feel like something's helping, do it.
- 4:47SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 4:48SPEAKER_00: Because we don't know in medicine.
- 4:50SPEAKER_00: Like that's the bottom line.
- 4:52SPEAKER_00: Like, I I don't think people like recognize that enough.
- 4:55SPEAKER_00: I mean, honestly, from an I I come from an allopathic side, you know, where we believe in drugs and giving you a pill for stuff, and that's fine.
- 5:03SPEAKER_00: That's my training.
- 5:04SPEAKER_00: But like what we don't talk about as a society enough is this herbalism is really the root of all modern medicine.
- 5:11SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 5:12SPEAKER_00: All modern medicine comes from it.
- 5:13SPEAKER_00: And so I think when pe like people can experiment with different herbs, different, you know, like I know like mint and you know, all of these different, like like green leafy herbs that we have are great as like antimicrobial agents, for example, you know, so like when you can work with stuff like that and get something to work for you, that's so powerful to me.
- 5:32SPEAKER_00: Um, long story long, you know, that's such a powerful journey to go on that.
- 5:36SPEAKER_00: So I love your products.
- 5:37SPEAKER_00: Like, I actually want to ask you, you know, about each one because I know a whole thought process went into every single one.
- 5:44SPEAKER_00: It's really true.
- 5:45SPEAKER_00: And I would love to start with the cleanser.
- 5:48SPEAKER_00: Like, what was your ideal cleanser like when you created this?
- 5:51SPEAKER_00: Like, what did you want for it to have?
- 5:52SPEAKER_00: And like also like any kind of herbalistic properties you would want to define, you know, that were your pillars.
- 5:58SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 5:58SPEAKER_01: Refresh my memory.
- 5:59SPEAKER_01: Did I send you the rice cleanser or the gel cleanser?
- 6:02SPEAKER_00: So this one is the originating herbal gel and makeup remover.
- 6:06SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I love this.
- 6:07SPEAKER_01: Yeah, the gel cleanser is it is our top-selling product currently and has been for a chunk of years.
- 6:13SPEAKER_01: It's just extremely popular.
- 6:14SPEAKER_01: We we had launched with the rice cleanser that we make, which I don't I don't think I included for you necessarily.
- 6:19SPEAKER_01: Like we we sent you with a limited range of stuff.
- 6:22SPEAKER_01: So I started with the rice cleanser, which is not it does not have makeup removal properties.
- 6:26SPEAKER_01: So I went into designing the gel cleanser at a time when my studio manager's mom was dealing with cancer.
- 6:33SPEAKER_01: And we always had a focus on people with sensitive skin.
- 6:36SPEAKER_01: But as I got more into formulating and the company matured, I really started to see more and hear more from our clients, like exactly what they were needing.
- 6:46SPEAKER_01: And so when I started designing the gel cleanser, I really wanted to create something that was going to be suitable for people with extremely reactive skin, but that would be extremely effective at cleansing and leave the skin really balanced because I think a lot of times people are over cleansing.
- 7:02SPEAKER_01: And a sales rep, I think, had shared with me a link to like the DHC olive oil-based cleanser.
- 7:10SPEAKER_01: And I couldn't make something like that quite work.
- 7:13SPEAKER_01: It had ingredients in it that I didn't want to use, but I kind of from my experiments, you know, in in trying different things, I spun off and ended up with the gel cleanser that we have now, which is really super gentle, has a lot of raw, unrefined herb extracts in it and raw oils.
- 7:33SPEAKER_01: And, you know, it's it's really the philosophy of our cleansing is really that we are not just removing things from the skin, we are adding things to the skin in that process as well.
- 7:42SPEAKER_01: So with our line, even the cleansers are nutritive.
- 7:46SPEAKER_01: So, you know, you'll get like the polyphenols from your babomate in there.
- 7:49SPEAKER_01: It has uh cornflowers, which are really good for sensitive skin, and then soap bark extract, which is a South American tree extract that's also used in organic food.
- 7:59SPEAKER_00: Wow, wow.
- 8:00SPEAKER_00: No, this is it's a really good cleanser.
- 8:03SPEAKER_00: Like it actually works really well for like, I'm not a big believer in like there needs to be like an A or something like that in every single cleanser I use.
- 8:10SPEAKER_00: I because cleansing is a very important step, and that's why I wanted to start there.
- 8:14SPEAKER_00: I personally gravitate towards this product because I don't have to worry about my skin feeling raw because I do try a lot of things.
- 8:21SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 8:21SPEAKER_00: I try different serums and I love actives, and I I think if you're anybody like me, you love your actives.
- 8:27SPEAKER_00: Like I think the cleansing step is kind of like the healing step.
- 8:31SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 8:31SPEAKER_00: Like it's kind of like I let my skin balance and heal as the first thing.
- 8:35SPEAKER_00: And this one is really great because it gets everything off.
- 8:39SPEAKER_00: Like if I'm using it at night, but in the day, even it doesn't feel like my as a morning cleanser, it doesn't feel like it's too much, you know what I mean?
- 8:46SPEAKER_00: Because I don't think any of us want that kind of raw feeling skin or like super tight skin in the morning when you're about to step out the door, it just isn't good for you, you know, to go into the song like that.
- 8:56SPEAKER_00: And I found this to be really soothing, like it was really helping me with the soothing aspect and waking up aspect.
- 9:02SPEAKER_00: So I appreciate this product a lot.
- 9:04SPEAKER_00: And I was, you know, I was very curious.
- 9:06SPEAKER_00: Like, what did she think about when she created this?
- 9:08SPEAKER_01: But love this.
- 9:09SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 9:09SPEAKER_01: So with the designing of the recipe, I mean, I ended up actually adding more oils back into it because you know, the first versions of it, I didn't necessarily have as much of the sunflower oil and grapeseed oil in there.
- 9:22SPEAKER_01: And I was finding that my skin was just feeling a little overdried.
- 9:25SPEAKER_01: And it feels counterintuitive, maybe to some people to say, oh, you know, there's a solid bit of oil actually in a cleanser, and it's, you know, balancing your skin oil.
- 9:36SPEAKER_01: So it is, you know, still like helping remove dirt and pollutants and you know oxidized oils from your skin, but it's also adding vitamin E and you know, essential omega fatty acids back.
- 9:47SPEAKER_01: The grapeseed oil has really nice linoleic fatty acid, which is great for people with imbalanced skin.
- 9:53SPEAKER_01: So yeah, I mean, there was a process of actually adding back some of that oil to make sure that it was leaving the skin in a really nice conditioned state.
- 10:02SPEAKER_01: So, I mean, and I think that in the natural world, people tend to sometimes gravitate towards soap-based cleansers because they feel that they're very safe.
- 10:11SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 10:11SPEAKER_01: And from a toxicity standpoint, they are.
- 10:14SPEAKER_01: They're, you know, people can make them at home if they want to.
- 10:16SPEAKER_01: But personally, I would rather see people using a cleanser that's correct for skin.
- 10:20SPEAKER_01: And I think that especially people with disrupted skin really need something that is not alkaline on their skin and isn't overly acidic, as you mentioned.
- 10:30SPEAKER_00: Yeah, that's also go either side of the spectrum, you know, like just stay in the nice skin-loving range.
- 10:36SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 10:36SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 10:37SPEAKER_00: No, I loved, I love that.
- 10:38SPEAKER_00: I think that's a cool, it's a really cool product.
- 10:40SPEAKER_00: And I, you know, I don't really highlight censors for the most part in any range because of exactly what you said.
- 10:46SPEAKER_00: You know, it's like either tooth stripping or it's just, you know, whatever.
- 10:49SPEAKER_00: But I like that it's it is balancing, it has the oils.
- 10:51SPEAKER_00: And, you know, I think the across the range, this is something I noticed was that, and this is again like kind of talking about why I think we mutually we both appreciate herbalism, is this idea that when you use the products, it just feels like you're doing something genuinely good for yourself.
- 11:07SPEAKER_00: Like your face is you know, I think of the face as or any part of your stand is like the top layer is a layer that you want to nourish and you want as bathed in nutrients.
- 11:17SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 11:17SPEAKER_00: It's not for you to worry about cellular signaling at the very top layer most of the time.
- 11:22SPEAKER_00: Like if you're looking for a clinical grade or whatever they call it nowadays, you know, skincare, that's gonna be more stuff that you know, you're gonna use a lot of actives and you're gonna try to slip things from your skin because you want things to get deeper, you know?
- 11:35SPEAKER_00: And so when I look at like everyday skincare, I don't think of that.
- 11:40SPEAKER_00: You know, I think of just back in the day, they used to grind up herbs, like you know, this is where it all started, and they that's what they would put on their on their face, like a mask, you know, and that worked for people, and it brought your skin to a place where you know you didn't have to worry about the things that we worry about now.
- 11:57SPEAKER_00: So I have a huge appreciation for how you've crafted every product.
- 12:00SPEAKER_00: Which one is your favorite one, Julia?
- 12:02SPEAKER_00: Which one was the most fun to craft?
- 12:04SPEAKER_01: Well, well, uh fun.
- 12:05SPEAKER_01: I mean, probably the rice cleanser.
- 12:07SPEAKER_01: So the cleanser that you you didn't get to try yet.
- 12:10SPEAKER_01: So rice cleanser was a happy accident.
- 12:12SPEAKER_01: I was experiment, I was just straight experimenting with trying to create emulsions that didn't have, you know, traditional emulsifiers in it and trying to see the structure I could get to hold together.
- 12:22SPEAKER_01: And I ended up combining a rice flour with the glycerin and the oils and a little bit of glycerol stearate, and it does wonderful things for my skin.
- 12:30SPEAKER_01: So every day, twice a day, I use the rice cleanser.
- 12:33SPEAKER_01: And that's partly because I don't really wear a lot of makeup, so I don't necessarily need mascara removal every single night.
- 12:38SPEAKER_01: I do keep the gel cleanser handy because sometimes I dress up or you know, business events or whatever.
- 12:43SPEAKER_01: And then I do wear, you know, some mascara that might need to come off at the end of the day, but I really take good care of my skin, so I don't really wear a lot of makeup unless I'm on camera.
- 12:52SPEAKER_01: And so the rice cleanser is usually all I need.
- 12:54SPEAKER_01: I love the smell of it.
- 12:56SPEAKER_01: It's really good for facial massage, and so it's a it's a nice lubricant.
- 13:00SPEAKER_01: And because you have to work it into the skin a little bit more, it kind of reminds you, I feel like, because it's not going to cleanse effectively if you don't work it into the skin.
- 13:08SPEAKER_01: So that whole process to me is very nurturing because I'm basically getting a default skin massage twice a day.
- 13:15SPEAKER_01: So that is really good for me because that's one of my main rejuvenating practices that I incorporate into my routine.
- 13:21SPEAKER_01: So that's probably the most used product.
- 13:24SPEAKER_01: And then I would say the next is probably the Aura phytobrightening serum because there are days when like that's my main skincare item after cleansing, like maybe, maybe a little toner.
- 13:34SPEAKER_01: But like I spent summer, it's very humid here in St.
- 13:37SPEAKER_01: Louis and I have oily skin, so I don't really need a whole lot of weight on my skin, especially when it's warm.
- 13:43SPEAKER_01: And the Aura phytobrightening serum is just the right weight.
- 13:46SPEAKER_01: It has like it's just packed with nutrition.
- 13:48SPEAKER_01: And as like I'm 46 now, so I'm getting a little bit older, and I do need like that extra boost of you know, vitamin C and the coenzyme tubes.
- 13:56SPEAKER_01: We all do, but we are extra.
- 13:58SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I don't yeah.
- 13:59SPEAKER_01: So that that kind of grabbles with me daily basis.
- 14:02SPEAKER_00: This serum is is this serum is rock star, by the way, Julie.
- 14:05SPEAKER_00: For real.
- 14:05SPEAKER_00: I love this serum.
- 14:06SPEAKER_00: Yeah, no, I'm glad you're talking about this one because I really like I'm the same way, I like a light serum, but I want to let you continue.
- 14:12SPEAKER_00: I just wanted to say I love this one as well.
- 14:14SPEAKER_00: Oh good.
- 14:15SPEAKER_00: It's really nice.
- 14:16SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 14:16SPEAKER_01: It we're one of the only, I we may still be the only skincare company using the palmella pomegranate extract in there that that's in there.
- 14:24SPEAKER_01: We started using it years ago when the company that makes that particular extract, it's one of the few extracts we don't make ourselves.
- 14:30SPEAKER_01: That one we buy from another company and it comes to us as a powder, so it doesn't have any added preservatives or anything.
- 14:35SPEAKER_01: And it has a ton of university research behind it for the bioavailable antioxidant fraction that it's standardized for, which is punicalagens.
- 14:44SPEAKER_01: So it's a little different than allagic acid.
- 14:46SPEAKER_01: A lot of pomegranate extracts are standardized for allagic acid.
- 14:49SPEAKER_01: It turns out the punicalogens are actually more bioavailable and some really good benefits for stabilizing the matrix of the cellular structures for collagen and elastin and the deeper layers of the skin.
- 15:02SPEAKER_01: And so, yeah, I mean, that that's an ingredient that's like plant-based, but you are not missing out on anything.
- 15:08SPEAKER_01: Like you don't have to worry that, like, oh, I'm not getting enough actives or it's not doing enough.
- 15:12SPEAKER_01: Like, there is a ton of research proving that yes, that one is doing a ton.
- 15:16SPEAKER_01: And so that's partly why that serum has the yellow color to it, because it's a very yellow-colored extract.
- 15:21SPEAKER_01: And that's good to think for people to know about our products is that because we are using unrefined whole plant ingredients, a lot of them do have like a color to them, and that's actually the original or nutrition is there, you know, because that's part of the whole thing, is like you're getting all the side compounds.
- 15:38SPEAKER_01: You know, we didn't necessarily refine it down to just one.
- 15:42SPEAKER_01: You're getting every little fraction that can contribute to activity in the ingredient.
- 15:47SPEAKER_01: So that's why they're effective too.
- 15:49SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 15:49SPEAKER_00: No, this is like a really good product, I think overall, because I love that it's actually like it's very barrier supportive, you know.
- 15:57SPEAKER_00: I mean, I really think that a lot of times we say things are like supporting our barrier, but you can't really see the effects of it.
- 16:04SPEAKER_00: I mean, I can give you an example, you know, what I said earlier about when you wake up and your skin feels raw because you had retinol the night before or something, like you want to add something on that's going to protect it, right?
- 16:15SPEAKER_00: So we use our sunscreens, we use all of this stuff, but sometimes, you know, the serum to me is like that one step that you need to be very sure of why the things that are in it are in it.
- 16:26SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 16:27SPEAKER_00: Like it's like the when I said coating a petri dish, like that's the thing you're coating it with.
- 16:31SPEAKER_00: And I found that this serum over time for me, Julie, I used it for I think almost a week straight, like just a week straight, and it felt like that feeling of just I don't I don't want to call it raw, but it just wasn't there anymore.
- 16:44SPEAKER_00: You know, it felt more like my skin was my skin, it felt intact, it felt like I could add on, and that's another thing.
- 16:50SPEAKER_00: It's so light that you can easily add on other products without feeling like, oh my god, like I'm wearing a mountain, you know what I mean?
- 16:57SPEAKER_00: Like I love it, like I really love this one, and I like the yellow, by the way.
- 17:01SPEAKER_00: I was gonna actually compliment you on that because I feel like it gives your skin a genuine natural inside out glow.
- 17:07SPEAKER_00: I kind of like, you know, when the natural colors retained, that always makes your skin look better.
- 17:12SPEAKER_00: I feel like so yeah.
- 17:13SPEAKER_01: So would you believe like I have never used a retinol product at all?
- 17:18SPEAKER_01: Like oh my god! Like not even once.
- 17:23SPEAKER_01: So, like, I'm from like a totally different world than you know, some of your listeners.
- 17:27SPEAKER_01: I've I've never had a Botox injection.
- 17:29SPEAKER_01: I have like never had any kind of invasive procedure.
- 17:34SPEAKER_01: Um, it's pretty much holistic all the way, which is an interesting journey in the sense that like I mean, I get compliments all the time on my skin.
- 17:40SPEAKER_01: I've taken really good care of it ever since I was, you know, 30-ish when I started making skincare.
- 17:45SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 17:46SPEAKER_01: A different path.
- 17:47SPEAKER_01: And and I do think that what you're pointing out about my recipes is that a product can be active and not be aggressive to the skin.
- 17:55SPEAKER_01: So, you know, that's that's our goal is to help provide really active products for people who do have maybe sensitivities and or don't want to go the route of maybe using a more slightly irritating ingredient.
- 18:08SPEAKER_01: You know, maybe they just want to do something else that like take a different path.
- 18:11SPEAKER_01: That's really where we're at.
- 18:12SPEAKER_01: And and also I think what you're highlighting too is that there isn't necessarily like just one way to do things.
- 18:19SPEAKER_01: Like people that use other products can still really benefit from using a more holistic approach as well.
- 18:26SPEAKER_01: Um, and we do see our products being used sometimes for post-procedure skin, you know, by some of our aestheticians.
- 18:33SPEAKER_01: Because we have aestheticians that are like full-on, they only do facial massage and lymphatic drainage.
- 18:38SPEAKER_01: And then we have other aestheticians that do microdermobrasion and maybe micronatling and stuff like that, where they need something calming after the fact.
- 18:45SPEAKER_01: The great thing is our products act well for both of those sets of people.
- 18:50SPEAKER_01: There is no problem with you know, somebody that usually uses a retinol to dip into our line because we don't have any like conflicting ingredients in there.
- 19:00SPEAKER_01: So yeah, and then you're correct, like that serum was designed to be layered with our photonic SPF mineral sunscreen.
- 19:08SPEAKER_01: So that's why it's so lightweight.
- 19:11SPEAKER_01: Like, and the two products together, they're both in our defend ecosystem, but they were designed as a pair.
- 19:17SPEAKER_01: And the photonic has a totally different set of ingredients and then has like niacinamide, which is not in the aurum, and then has like a little little more potent oils in it.
- 19:27SPEAKER_01: Um, so it's kind of completing that barrier building effect.
- 19:30SPEAKER_00: That makes sense.
- 19:30SPEAKER_00: I actually well, you know, I wanted to ask you because I did notice, like, you know, one thing I am always appreciated about green beauty, and this is like I think this is my favorite term out of all the terms that we have for marketing.
- 19:41SPEAKER_00: Like we have clean, we have natural, we have organic, and then we have, I feel like we have green beauty, which is now kind of getting its light, which I love that name.
- 19:50SPEAKER_00: I love green beauty because green science is a real, like it's real, you know, like you can call it whatever you want, botany, ecology, like all of these different disciplines fall into it.
- 20:00SPEAKER_00: And one thing I love about what you're doing is that you're preserving like the actual plant.
- 20:06SPEAKER_00: You know, you're observing, you're preserving the extract.
- 20:09SPEAKER_00: And so one of my big questions for you was when you were crafting any of your products, especially the serum, like what is the extract process for you guys?
- 20:16SPEAKER_00: Because a lot of times big laboratories will strip naturally occurring compounds of their like nature, you know, like their their full nature is my point.
- 20:26SPEAKER_00: So, how was that?
- 20:26SPEAKER_00: How did you extract your your stuff for your products?
- 20:29SPEAKER_01: Yeah, so we I I really do a lot of reading into what compounds we're trying to get out, like what compounds are being shown to have specific actions for different skin needs.
- 20:40SPEAKER_01: And then I'll look into is this water soluble, alcohol soluble, oil soluble?
- 20:45SPEAKER_01: Is it heat sensitive?
- 20:46SPEAKER_01: And then we will, you know, work a process that allows us to get as much as we can, you know, out of that particular herb.
- 20:55SPEAKER_01: And so depending on what we're trying to get out of it, and if it's heat sensitive, we might do a water-based extraction.
- 21:01SPEAKER_01: Some herbs, like you might mostly be getting minerals, tannins, things like that out of those are fine to go in heat.
- 21:07SPEAKER_01: So a lot of our root-based herbs, like maybe butcher's broom root or horse tails, like one that we put in pot water sometimes, or roses, those have a lot of tannins in them.
- 21:17SPEAKER_01: So rose petals go in some of our products.
- 21:20SPEAKER_01: We do a hot extraction at the beginning of most of our batches.
- 21:25SPEAKER_01: So that's made like an extremely strong tea with water and heat.
- 21:28SPEAKER_01: And then the nice thing is we just strain it and you go straight into manufacturing.
- 21:33SPEAKER_01: So it is definitely a process that a copacker would not want or would not be able to do because they wouldn't want to handle doing that extraction process.
- 21:41SPEAKER_01: The fact that I couldn't, I really 15 years ago when I started, it really was the infancy of and as well as kind of heyday of the green beauty industry.
- 21:51SPEAKER_01: Because when I launched, there were a lot of other independent businesses that were catering to, you know, the market that we were in.
- 21:58SPEAKER_01: And it was a really great time to be.
- 22:00SPEAKER_01: Business.
- 22:00SPEAKER_01: There were a lot of people that were really getting into more ecological concerns as well as health concerns about skincare products, but there weren't a lot of ingredients that were available that were naturally preserved.
- 22:11SPEAKER_01: And so the fact that the choices were so limited led me to start doing our own extraction processes.
- 22:19SPEAKER_01: So that's partly why our products are so unique, is because the lack of availability forced us to innovate.
- 22:25SPEAKER_01: And so yeah, that's still something that we do.
- 22:27SPEAKER_01: And then we compost the herb waste after the fact.
- 22:30SPEAKER_01: So there's a lot that goes into the water base of each of the emulsions.
- 22:34SPEAKER_01: Basically, every almost every product has a hot herb infusion in the water base.
- 22:38SPEAKER_01: And then we also do, you know, something that's more like a traditional tincture, except we've modified the amount of organic alcohol that's in those.
- 22:45SPEAKER_01: And then those go in the cold portion of the recipe.
- 22:48SPEAKER_01: So if we're trying to get out something that's heat sensitive, like oleoropene, which is an olive leaf compound, is heat sensitive to the point where if you make an olive leaf tea, you can drink it and I'm sure it's still going to be beneficial for you and healthy, but it's not going to have that particular compound in it because it's going to be destroyed by the process of the hot water.
- 23:06SPEAKER_01: So doing that one as a cold extract is really important.
- 23:09SPEAKER_01: We also do like calendula, licorice, and a bunch of others as cold extraction processes so that we can treat them really gently.
- 23:17SPEAKER_01: And then we have some that we infuse into glycerin or into oil bases.
- 23:21SPEAKER_01: It's usually I prefer to use a CO2 extract versus doing a maceration.
- 23:26SPEAKER_01: A maceration is what herbalists call like putting herbs into an oil and you know, letting it sit and infuse for a while.
- 23:32SPEAKER_01: I generally prefer to use CO2 extracts when I can, just because those are technically more potent.
- 23:37SPEAKER_01: But the process of actually going like working with the herbs themselves is still really important to me.
- 23:43SPEAKER_01: So I do love the direct connection that we have with our farmers and actually putting those leaves and you know, stems and everything into the oil itself and then you know getting to strain it later.
- 23:55SPEAKER_01: So we have a really nice oil infusion and sesame oil, which is kind of an ayurbatic oil base in our updated SPF product as well.
- 24:04SPEAKER_01: So I'm excited.
- 24:06SPEAKER_00: So cool.
- 24:06SPEAKER_00: Oh my god, I love that.
- 24:07SPEAKER_00: I feel like I need to like take a look at like a couple day course on how extractions work, you know, like what you're describing, because that's really interesting.
- 24:15SPEAKER_00: I mean, I always found it to be so unique because, you know, I've been hearing this, and and you know, I'm gonna take it with a grain of salt as should everyone listening, but like there's a lot of stuff out there that says that when a brand claims there's like an extract of any kind of naturally naturally occurring ingredient in there, like that might not be what you think.
- 24:35SPEAKER_00: It might not be even close to what you think.
- 24:37SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 24:38SPEAKER_00: So, like that's why I'm like, I have such an appreciation for genuine green science.
- 24:43SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 24:43SPEAKER_00: Like this stuff, because this tells me that herbs that I want in here are actually in here, you know.
- 24:49SPEAKER_00: Like that's yeah, it scares me to think that we're buying products that don't have the stuff that we think is actually there as you know, whatever therapeutic value it's supposed to be in, like, you know, dosing and whatnot.
- 25:00SPEAKER_00: So it's very interesting to me, this whole extraction process and and all of it.
- 25:04SPEAKER_00: So I I love that you guys, you know, you do that correctly and that you're putting that out there.
- 25:09SPEAKER_00: We need that.
- 25:10SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I think I think trust has really gotten damaged in the beauty industry overall.
- 25:15SPEAKER_01: And yeah, there is, you know, marketing is necessary, and you probably know as well that like you know, selling skincare, because you know, you're talking to people every day whose business is selling skincare.
- 25:27SPEAKER_01: It it is it's hard to convince people to buy something.
- 25:30SPEAKER_01: And so it's natural that companies would want to make stuff sound really cool and fun.
- 25:35SPEAKER_01: But I think that the label can hide a lot more than people realize.
- 25:39SPEAKER_01: And, you know, something could say a stragalus extract, and between two different products, that extract could be a completely different quality.
- 25:48SPEAKER_01: And even with organic oils, I mean, I I see huge variation in organic oils depending on who pressed it and how it was handled and the quality of the original seeds.
- 25:59SPEAKER_01: Like literally everything matters, and you have to be watching out on all those fronts in order to get a consistent quality.
- 26:06SPEAKER_01: And if a brand is mostly wanting fun label claims, then you know it is easy to get off track.
- 26:14SPEAKER_01: And our goal has always been like we've never really been quote unquote trendy, right?
- 26:20SPEAKER_01: We I I am more of a traditional-minded person in the sense that like we're working with plants that have been used for generations.
- 26:27SPEAKER_01: I don't really, it takes us long enough to develop a new recipe that I don't really pay too much attention to like what's hot this year in you know, ingredients.
- 26:36SPEAKER_01: I mean, I I keep an eyeball on it, but I'm not usually able to move at that speed because I'm just not a big company.
- 26:43SPEAKER_01: So I'm really more interested in like what are the recent research papers that are coming out?
- 26:49SPEAKER_01: How does that actually help people?
- 26:51SPEAKER_01: You know, rather than, you know, if it's trendy, I'm looking at does it work?
- 26:56SPEAKER_01: And that doesn't always, you know, it's not necessarily what's getting media attention.
- 27:01SPEAKER_01: That's a huge point too.
- 27:02SPEAKER_00: I like that you said that.
- 27:03SPEAKER_00: I really like that you said that.
- 27:05SPEAKER_00: You know what?
- 27:05SPEAKER_00: I completely agree with you, and I will even say what's trendy is most of the time not really working.
- 27:12SPEAKER_00: You're buying a lot of packaging, guys.
- 27:13SPEAKER_00: Like I say this all the time that I think that there's more packaging in this industry, especially beauty, than any other one.
- 27:21SPEAKER_00: And that's what we're buying.
- 27:22SPEAKER_00: Packaging.
- 27:23SPEAKER_00: That's why I asked you, Julie, how do you extract your ingredients?
- 27:26SPEAKER_00: How do you because at the end of the day, if I'm buying something that says, okay, I'm gonna heal your skin or I'm gonna give you like a natural glow, I don't know what you mean, anyways, but you damn well make sure there's ingredients in there, you know what I mean?
- 27:40SPEAKER_00: That actually are there.
- 27:41SPEAKER_00: Like a lot of the stuff I've seen and bought that's like quote trendy, I guess you could call it, you know, pretty packaging, whatever.
- 27:48SPEAKER_00: They don't do jack for my skin.
- 27:50SPEAKER_00: Nothing, it doesn't work.
- 27:51SPEAKER_01: You know, what I don't I mean, that's kind of how I got into the industry was as a frustrated consumer because I had tried a bunch of stuff and it was honestly all making my skin worse.
- 28:01SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 28:01SPEAKER_01: I like nothing would have been a preferable reaction for me because my skin was like pissed off.
- 28:08SPEAKER_01: It was flaky and red, and I had cystic breakouts.
- 28:12SPEAKER_01: And when I stopped using a lot of the stuff that I was getting from the store, it got better.
- 28:17SPEAKER_01: So I went into the industry partly because I was really frustrated.
- 28:21SPEAKER_01: I was like, man, people have no idea what they're actually buying.
- 28:25SPEAKER_01: I I thought I was trying to do a good job of shopping, and I didn't even know what I was buying until I got into the industry.
- 28:31SPEAKER_01: And I I think that there is a lot of work to do.
- 28:34SPEAKER_01: I mean, I as a consumer, I think that there it's really confusing for people to be able to, they they don't realize how many products are just basically the same thing in a different bottle.
- 28:45SPEAKER_01: Yes, exactly.
- 28:46SPEAKER_01: Yeah, there are a lot of companies that mainly act kind of as a marketing engine versus being into the product itself.
- 28:53SPEAKER_01: And to me, I personally don't think that's responsible.
- 28:57SPEAKER_01: If you're going to entice somebody to buy something and spend their money, it had better help.
- 29:02SPEAKER_01: And if it doesn't, then you need to be asking yourself what.
- 29:05SPEAKER_01: And I mean, like it's fine to have something that just smells nice or feels nice every once in a while.
- 29:09SPEAKER_01: Like, not everybody's looking for like less fine lines or reducing their redness or whatever.
- 29:14SPEAKER_01: So it's fine to have things that are just fun and feel good, but as well, like you need to be honest about that.
- 29:19SPEAKER_01: If it's just fun, feel good skincare, you can market it that way.
- 29:22SPEAKER_00: Just say that.
- 29:23SPEAKER_00: Yeah, just say it.
- 29:24SPEAKER_00: And you know what?
- 29:25SPEAKER_00: And you can make it super gentle and you can have just three ingredients.
- 29:28SPEAKER_00: You know, you don't have to pretend like you're doing actual, you know, like you're actually creating.
- 29:34SPEAKER_00: I mean, it's I can go down this road forever.
- 29:36SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 29:36SPEAKER_00: But like I completely agree.
- 29:38SPEAKER_00: Like, I think that there is so much lying going on, and I just and you know what makes me mad is that I'm on one end, I'm really glad because I'm getting rid of a lot of terms.
- 29:46SPEAKER_00: Like, you know, I'd said to you, like, I like green beauty, but I don't like the other terms.
- 29:50SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 29:51SPEAKER_00: That's I'm gonna be honest.
- 29:52SPEAKER_00: I don't like them because I think they're big marketing machines, you know what I mean?
- 29:55SPEAKER_00: But what I really love is genuine herbalism, genuine botany, you know what I mean, genuine like understanding how these herbs work.
- 30:04SPEAKER_00: And you know what?
- 30:05SPEAKER_00: It's interesting, Julia.
- 30:06SPEAKER_00: I'm gonna send this to you.
- 30:07SPEAKER_00: I wrote a post the other day for like our social media, right?
- 30:09SPEAKER_00: Like our education post, and it was about the science of natural beauty.
- 30:13SPEAKER_00: And that's what I was trying to say in that post.
- 30:15SPEAKER_00: And I don't know if you agree with me, but a lot of the times that we like the chemicals we see in like herbs and plants and like tree bark or you know, wherever you're looking, these have occurred over so many thousands of years, and that that you know, that plant has it embedded in their DNA to make certain chemicals the way they're supposed to be made, and you can't mimic it.
- 30:37SPEAKER_00: You just can't, you know, like science.
- 30:39SPEAKER_00: I feel like it's coming to a point where like we need to understand what synthetic really means, you know, and what are our limitations with it.
- 30:47SPEAKER_00: So that's where it's important, you know what I mean, to understand herbalism, to understand the need for genuine brands bringing this to the table.
- 30:55SPEAKER_00: And so I'm just I don't know, I'm kind of like, I'm not shifting bandwagons.
- 30:59SPEAKER_00: I love my clinical grade, whatever they call it now, you know, skincare, but I also love that mixed win, you know, without making it sound so serious, you know what I mean?
- 31:08SPEAKER_00: Like I'm about to get an injection like right now, like you know, the sterile packaging and all that stuff.
- 31:14SPEAKER_00: So I think it's a really cool merger that's happening right now.
- 31:17SPEAKER_00: And I see that in your brand.
- 31:18SPEAKER_00: I mean, you have the science, the solid science, and then you're also not creating something where I'm like, okay, well, I I don't know, everything's clear.
- 31:26SPEAKER_00: I can't tell what's in here, you know?
- 31:28SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I try to leave our audience smarter than they came, you know, and we have very in-depth ingredient discussions on the blog.
- 31:36SPEAKER_01: I really try to get into issues, and I've never been into like the fear-mongering.
- 31:40SPEAKER_01: I do think the natural beauty world has sometimes been guilty of fear-mongering to a degree, or that was the original reason that people were maybe switching.
- 31:48SPEAKER_01: And our brand is really more focused on highlighting all the positives of using plant-based ingredients and going a different way because it's really super effective.
- 31:56SPEAKER_01: And we just did a clinical study on it, it was really one of our products, but the gel cleanser was also involved in the routine that people used.
- 32:04SPEAKER_01: And we've seen the results of these products for more than 10 years on our clients, and we hear all the time about what they do, but we wanted to get some third-party data finally because we're a small company, we just hadn't been able to do the official laboratory work because it's expensive.
- 32:19SPEAKER_01: And we were really excited to get back, you know, the results.
- 32:23SPEAKER_01: Like we our study group saw a 54% redness reduction in their skin.
- 32:28SPEAKER_01: That's huge.
- 32:30SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 32:30SPEAKER_01: I mean, so when people tried, I and I and I think that there is, it's true to some degree that some natural products are not well designed.
- 32:39SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 32:39SPEAKER_01: And I think that that's the key difference is that what you're looking for in either department, whether you're going synthetic or where the whether you're going natural, you're looking for really thoughtful design that really takes the wellness of skin into account because there are certainly synthetic ingredients sometimes that can offer real benefits for skin.
- 33:00SPEAKER_01: And there are also lots of plant ingredients that offer benefits for skin.
- 33:04SPEAKER_01: And I think that the two worlds sometimes get into demonizing each other a little too much.
- 33:09SPEAKER_01: Yes.
- 33:10SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 33:10SPEAKER_01: I'm kind of like a use the tools in the toolbox.
- 33:13SPEAKER_01: I have chosen to go a completely plant-based, you know, really more like natural.
- 33:19SPEAKER_01: I mean, we do use some ingredients that are like kind of one step off, like if we need an emulsifier or like, you know, isoamylorate is in our new sunscreen.
- 33:28SPEAKER_01: So that's a plant-based ingredient, but it isn't like it didn't get extracted from a plant, but it is, you know, biodegradable, it's safe, you know, and I kind of look for those qualities when we need a functional ingredient that's going to hold all the other ingredients together and give people the performance that they need.
- 33:44SPEAKER_01: But I I do think that there needs to be kind of more of like a middle ground between the two sides of the industry.
- 33:52SPEAKER_01: You know, there are certainly people in the natural world that I don't agree with, you know, that are demonizing using like polyunsaturated fats.
- 34:00SPEAKER_01: They want you to use like just tallow on your skin, which personally I think is pretty wild.
- 34:05SPEAKER_01: And that's not how I roll either.
- 34:08SPEAKER_01: You know, I think like the whole waterless skincare kind of thing is it's an interesting tactic, but I think that you're missing a lot of nutrients and putting water in skincare is not cheating people if there's really good things suspended in the water.
- 34:22SPEAKER_01: Like you're not gonna get any minerals from waterless skincare because minerals are soluble.
- 34:28SPEAKER_01: Exactly.
- 34:29SPEAKER_01: Yeah, yeah.
- 34:30SPEAKER_01: And there are plenty of other like beneficial plant compounds like polysaccharides and that that you are just not mucilage, you're not gonna find any of that in a waterless product.
- 34:41SPEAKER_01: And you can disrupt your barrier depending on the product.
- 34:45SPEAKER_01: So, like, you know, certain oils are better for skin than others.
- 34:48SPEAKER_01: And so just because something's natural doesn't mean that it's perfect for skin.
- 34:52SPEAKER_01: And I'm very big on getting extremely specific about what ingredients are the best.
- 34:57SPEAKER_01: Like I choose to go all natural, but I also want it to really work.
- 35:00SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 35:00SPEAKER_00: And I think that that's the actually it's very, very much the main point, I think, of this whole conversation is that like it it should be natural, but it needs to work and it needs to actually do what you want it to do for your skin.
- 35:14SPEAKER_00: And I think that, you know, I've been a firm believer in the fact that like, you know, brands that are actually trying to go the natural route, like we have to understand how expensive this stuff can get.
- 35:24SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 35:24SPEAKER_00: Because like all of these processes, like cosmetic chemistry is not cheap.
- 35:28SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 35:29SPEAKER_00: So, like you're really, if you're trying to do things right, from what I've heard everybody say, is like it's a very costly like route to go.
- 35:36SPEAKER_00: And I feel like we need as consumers, like we need to vote with our dollars, you know.
- 35:40SPEAKER_00: If something's really working, like get behind these brands that are trying to, you know, they're trying to bring this to the mainstream where you then understand that like that natural extract that you loved and that worked for your skin, more people can experience that.
- 35:53SPEAKER_00: I feel like that's how it works.
- 35:55SPEAKER_00: Like, you know, I'm all for trends if they're founded in like real evidence, you know.
- 35:59SPEAKER_00: That's my whole thing.
- 36:00SPEAKER_00: And I feel like the things that are getting funded from what I'm seeing in this industry are not the things that I personally as a scientist would say fund this, you know, and that's why I'm like fund the green science.
- 36:12SPEAKER_00: Like it's actually really good stuff, you know, that we're missing out on.
- 36:16SPEAKER_00: And like, you know, I believe in it.
- 36:17SPEAKER_00: So I think I don't know, I just find it to be really cool.
- 36:20SPEAKER_00: Your balance of the science means the true herbalism and the true like green chemistry.
- 36:25SPEAKER_00: Like, it's very cool.
- 36:26SPEAKER_00: And like I haven't had one, not obviously no bad reactions, but I haven't been disappointed by even a single one of your products so far.
- 36:34SPEAKER_00: Like, I love them.
- 36:35SPEAKER_00: So I'm gonna ask you to send me more because I'm really loving them.
- 36:38SPEAKER_00: Like they're really, really good.
- 36:40SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 36:40SPEAKER_00: We can work together.
- 36:41SPEAKER_00: Yeah, no, I'm gonna be bugging you for that.
- 36:43SPEAKER_00: But no, I really I love your line and I love what you're doing.
- 36:47SPEAKER_00: And honestly, for everybody out there, like if you're somebody who genuinely is because I know a few people do reach out to us, right?
- 36:53SPEAKER_00: Like Julie, like people will write to me and be like, Ecta, I want this, but please find me a brand that's like not an endocrine disruptor, like you know, like just like their version of clean, you know what I mean?
- 37:02SPEAKER_00: Like, they just don't want to get hurt, like in the long run.
- 37:05SPEAKER_00: And I think that's where a lot of consumers feel clean chemistry and clean beauty is now is like, listen, just give me something real.
- 37:11SPEAKER_00: I get a lot of those.
- 37:12SPEAKER_00: So if you're somebody like that, I really, really encourage you to check out Blasopoma.
- 37:17SPEAKER_00: I'm gonna be linking everything in the show notes for this episode.
- 37:20SPEAKER_00: But Julie, thank you so much.
- 37:21SPEAKER_00: It was such an honor to host you and to learn from you.
- 37:24SPEAKER_00: I would love to do this again anytime that your schedule allows.
- 37:27SPEAKER_01: Oh, I'd I'd be happy to come back.
- 37:29SPEAKER_01: We can always talk, you know, talking plants all day is my job.
- 37:31SPEAKER_00: So yeah, no, I love it.
- 37:33SPEAKER_00: I love it.
- 37:34SPEAKER_00: Awesome.
- 37:35SPEAKER_00: No, but everybody check them out and let me know what you guys think.
- 37:37SPEAKER_00: And if you've tried the products, please let me know.
- 37:40SPEAKER_00: And yeah, if you haven't, this is a good brand to you know start if you're into this whole, you know, new route of thinking.
- 37:46SPEAKER_00: So thank you so much.
- 37:47SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 37:48SPEAKER_00: Hey guys, so I hope you love that episode.
- 37:51SPEAKER_00: Please make sure to hit subscribe if you're tuning in to us on any podcast platform.
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