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What's New In Skincare: Recapping the AAD meeting in Orlando · The Science of Skin

• 0:09
  SPEAKER_00: Hello and welcome to Skincare Confidential, a podcast supporting the Science of Skin Care Summit, an annual educational event occurring in Austin, September 5th through the 7th, 2025.
• 0:22
  SPEAKER_00: My name is Dr.
• 0:22
  SPEAKER_00: Ted Lane.
• 0:23
  SPEAKER_00: I am a board certified dermatologist, and I am with my partner in crime, Dr.
• 0:28
  SPEAKER_00: Patty Ferris.
• 0:29
  SPEAKER_00: Hi, Patty.
• 0:30
  SPEAKER_01: Morning.
• 0:32
  SPEAKER_00: We are in Orlando, and we have been in Orlando longer than anybody really should be in Orlando.
• 0:38
  SPEAKER_01: I was gonna say we are on a roll.
• 0:40
  SPEAKER_01: We've been here and we've been going 24-7.
• 0:44
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 0:44
  SPEAKER_00: That we are at the AAD meeting in Orlando, and we thought we would just uh record a quick episode talking about everything we have learned from the exhibitor hall and from all the meetings that we've been having regarding what's new in skincare.
• 1:00
  SPEAKER_00: And really, Patty, there's a lot.
• 1:03
  SPEAKER_01: It's unbelievable.
• 1:04
  SPEAKER_01: You know, every year at the American Academy of Dermatology, that exhibit hall seems to get bigger and bigger.
• 1:11
  SPEAKER_01: And there are so many new companies coming in the marketplace.
• 1:15
  SPEAKER_01: It's unbelievable.
• 1:17
  SPEAKER_01: Innovations with different products, you know, looking and addressing different subpopulations of our patients.
• 1:23
  SPEAKER_01: It just goes on and on.
• 1:25
  SPEAKER_01: And you know, I was tickled because when I walked in the exhibit hall and I'm seeing a lot of the usual big companies there, the L'Oreal's and Neutrogenas, all the great companies we love.
• 1:34
  SPEAKER_01: And then I looked over and I saw this colorful booth, just pinks and blues, and I'm like, what is that?
• 1:41
  SPEAKER_01: Bubble go figure, bubble at the AAD.
• 1:46
  SPEAKER_01: Amazing.
• 1:47
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, and Patty, you actually met the founder of Bubble who was at the booth.
• 1:51
  SPEAKER_01: I did.
• 1:52
  SPEAKER_01: I gotta tell you the whole story in a nutshell.
• 1:55
  SPEAKER_01: So my grandkids are obsessed with bubble.
• 1:57
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, it's darling.
• 1:59
  SPEAKER_01: The packaging is beautiful, and I'm always like, you know, probably doesn't hurt, maybe maybe it doesn't do anything.
• 2:04
  SPEAKER_01: You know, you don't want kids to get anything too active anyway.
• 2:07
  SPEAKER_01: So I just strolled over to Bubble, and I actually ran into the founder of the company and the research scientist who's the formulator who's involved with it.
• 2:17
  SPEAKER_01: And I start asking them, and they've got a medical advisory board of some of our friends who we know are, you know, big-time skincare people, um, and some people who deal in acne and some of the issues that might address that particular population.
• 2:31
  SPEAKER_01: And they're doing studies, clinical studies.
• 2:33
  SPEAKER_01: So I asked them, I haven't seen them, I said, please send me a package when you get back of the things that you have.
• 2:40
  SPEAKER_01: And uh Patty Ferris, who never takes products home from the American Academy of Dermatology, has bubble to take home to her grandkids.
• 2:47
  SPEAKER_01: I'm like a rock star with them.
• 2:50
  SPEAKER_01: So I've got bubble, little cute, cute samples they gave in a little mesh bag.
• 2:55
  SPEAKER_01: But I'm very interested to see the science behind it because you know it goes to show you just don't discount anybody until you know.
• 3:02
  SPEAKER_01: And I say that a lot of times on podium, just because you don't know if there's a study doesn't mean there isn't a study.
• 3:07
  SPEAKER_01: And so we we really need to look at the science, and I certainly will.
• 3:11
  SPEAKER_00: You know, as we were walking around, it struck me how many of these small companies, which maybe a few years ago you would think they would never have the funding to support a clinical trial.
• 3:21
  SPEAKER_00: They're all now with their, you know, their copies of their clinical trials that they're handing out, as they detail people on the different products.
• 3:29
  SPEAKER_00: It's amazing.
• 3:30
  SPEAKER_00: It's just a totally new era, I feel like, in skincare, where you don't just rely on the huge companies for the clinical trials.
• 3:39
  SPEAKER_00: It's percolated down to even the smaller companies because they realize, especially if they're going to be at the AAD, they have to have the data to support their products.
• 3:49
  SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
• 3:49
  SPEAKER_01: And we know it's not inexpensive to exhibit at the AAD.
• 3:53
  SPEAKER_01: So it really shows, you know, you have to be a company of a certain maturity to even get in that door because it's it's fairly pricey.
• 4:00
  SPEAKER_01: But I agree with you, it's it's super exciting.
• 4:03
  SPEAKER_01: Let's talk maybe about some of the specifics that we saw this year, and one that I know you've been involved in.
• 4:08
  SPEAKER_01: I was also involved in the ad boards for is a userin product, which comes from Buyer Store.
• 4:14
  SPEAKER_01: If one of my favorite lines is userin, and it's under the userine radiant tone brand, and they've got a serum, a day lotion with SPF 30, and they've got a night cream.
• 4:24
  SPEAKER_01: So talk about thiamidol.
• 4:26
  SPEAKER_01: This is a very cool new ingredient coming into the market.
• 4:29
  SPEAKER_00: Finally available in the United States.
• 4:31
  SPEAKER_00: This has been launched in Europe a few years ago and just done incredibly well uh outside of the U.S.
• 4:37
  SPEAKER_00: Thiamidol is an ingredient that is a human tyrosinase inhibitor.
• 4:41
  SPEAKER_00: So, tarosenase is the enzyme that's involved in the pathway of producing pigment in the skin.
• 4:46
  SPEAKER_00: If you're able to inhibit this, the idea is that you'll stop the production of pigment and reduce the appearance of brown spots, uh, maybe even melasma as well, which as you know is probably the most difficult to really reduce.
• 5:00
  SPEAKER_00: And finally, it's it's here.
• 5:02
  SPEAKER_00: I think the, you know, it's it's a great new ingredient.
• 5:05
  SPEAKER_00: It seems to be very safe.
• 5:07
  SPEAKER_00: Uh, it has been tested on a novel uh testing pathway where the the company not only found this new ingredient, but they also figured out a way to mimic the human tarosinase enzyme.
• 5:21
  SPEAKER_00: Most other companies test their tarosinase inhibitors on mushroom tarosinase, which is not human.
• 5:27
  SPEAKER_00: And so this company did both.
• 5:30
  SPEAKER_00: They figured out a new uh chemical entity that they were going to use, and they figured out how to test it so that they could be sure that it worked in humans.
• 5:38
  SPEAKER_00: Uh, so it is really exciting, and I hope it ushers in a new era of much safer lightning and brightening products for uh the consumer and our patients.
• 5:50
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I agree.
• 5:50
  SPEAKER_01: And I I think it's really interesting that they've done some studies where they have combined it or used it in the Kligman formula.
• 5:59
  SPEAKER_01: So pull out the hydroquinone, add in the thiamidol, and it appears to be efficacious in that as well.
• 6:06
  SPEAKER_01: So there they've done a lot of good work.
• 6:07
  SPEAKER_01: They've done it in combination with laser treatments.
• 6:10
  SPEAKER_01: And like you said, this has been going on for years.
• 6:13
  SPEAKER_01: It's and now it's finally launching in the U.S.
• 6:15
  SPEAKER_01: And we all need hydroquinone alternatives.
• 6:18
  SPEAKER_01: Can't keep people on HQ too long, and some patients don't want HQ at all, which makes it hard on us.
• 6:23
  SPEAKER_01: But this is a very effective uh skin lightening agent.
• 6:26
  SPEAKER_01: So I think we're gonna hear more on that to come.
• 6:29
  SPEAKER_00: I think just to piggyback on the idea of we need to move away from hydroquinone, there was uh a meta-analysis done on uh some de-identified data from millions and millions of people.
• 6:40
  SPEAKER_00: And although this is really not that specific, but if you just look at those patients who were prescribed hydroquinone versus those who were not, those who were prescribed hydroquinone had an increased risk of cancer.
• 6:54
  SPEAKER_00: And so yeah.
• 6:56
  SPEAKER_01: Where was that published?
• 6:57
  SPEAKER_01: Do you remember?
• 6:58
  SPEAKER_00: It was by a resident at UTMB in Galveston, and I think it was five to eight years ago.
• 7:04
  SPEAKER_00: Wow.
• 7:04
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 7:05
  SPEAKER_00: And and again, you know, she she couldn't, he or she could not account for all the variables, but it just raised eyebrows.
• 7:13
  SPEAKER_00: And I I think the hydroquinone is you know related to a really toxic chemical that can hurt the kidneys, and I think we just need to move away from that if we can.
• 7:23
  SPEAKER_00: So having these products.
• 7:25
  SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
• 7:25
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you for bringing thiaminol to the US of A.
• 7:28
  SPEAKER_01: It's long overdue.
• 7:30
  SPEAKER_00: Well, you know, long overdue.
• 7:31
  SPEAKER_00: And Patty, a a huge issue that everyone's talking about is this GLP1 inhibitors, right?
• 7:36
  SPEAKER_00: So GLP1 agonists, I should say, excuse me.
• 7:39
  SPEAKER_00: And these are, you know, obviously with the they're injected now to to reduce semaglutide, for example, to to help people lose weight, but they also have all these other amazing effects on the body and on the skin.
• 7:51
  SPEAKER_00: Absolutely.
• 7:52
  SPEAKER_00: And and while a lot of skincare companies are talking about the phenomenon of GLP1s, we actually found a company who formulated a product for people on GLP1s.
• 8:03
  SPEAKER_01: This is unbelievable.
• 8:04
  SPEAKER_01: And you know, uh, so many companies, as you know, have asked us what we can do about this problem, because you know, when you lose a lot of weight, you definitely have skin that's lax, and we know it's a lot of it is fat atrophy, so that's very hard to address with skincare products.
• 8:21
  SPEAKER_01: So we found a product in that exhibit hall called Volu Lift.
• 8:26
  SPEAKER_01: And VoluLift is by Image, and you and I spent a good bit of time talking to the to the team at Image, and they're really excited about this product addressing that loss of volume that you get, hence the name Volue Lift.
• 8:40
  SPEAKER_01: It's got I've got a little list of the ingredients I jotted down.
• 8:43
  SPEAKER_01: It's got exosomes, it's got also Bacuchiol, which we're all familiar with, botanical, that's sort of a retinoid mimetic.
• 8:50
  SPEAKER_01: It's got Ha hyaluronic acid, so that's a plumping ingredient.
• 8:53
  SPEAKER_01: And it's got ornithine.
• 8:55
  SPEAKER_01: And I I wasn't 100% sure, so maybe I'll ask you how the ornithine played in.
• 9:01
  SPEAKER_01: I know it's a I wasn't sure what what that ingredient exactly was doing in the formula.
• 9:07
  SPEAKER_00: As an amino acid, I think the idea was just to provide the a reservoir of amino acids for protein production and making sure that the skin is.
• 9:16
  SPEAKER_00: Yes, the the skin had what it needed uh in order to do that.
• 9:20
  SPEAKER_00: I otherwise I'm not sure what the ornithine would do.
• 9:23
  SPEAKER_00: Um maybe we need to get them on the podcast and and learn a little bit more about it.
• 9:28
  SPEAKER_01: We're a hundred percent gonna have them on the podcast.
• 9:31
  SPEAKER_01: This is so cool.
• 9:33
  SPEAKER_01: But you know, Rajasubamani, who both you and I have a huge amount of respect for, he does all kinds of great trials, and he's in the process of doing a trial.
• 9:40
  SPEAKER_01: Preliminary results they were presenting, which he said were good when we ran into him for a nanosecond while he was running around.
• 9:47
  SPEAKER_01: So this is super exciting to me.
• 9:50
  SPEAKER_01: Um to have something topical.
• 9:52
  SPEAKER_00: Okay.
• 9:53
  SPEAKER_00: Well, you know, stay tuned.
• 9:55
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, so so we have the topicals, and we'll go back to the topicals, but another exciting launch here is actually a nutraceutical, it's a supplement, isn't it?
• 10:04
  SPEAKER_00: Absolutely.
• 10:06
  SPEAKER_01: That that that whole remind me the name of it, bio rewind.
• 10:10
  SPEAKER_01: Rewind, yeah.
• 10:11
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, kind of a bio-rewind.
• 10:13
  SPEAKER_01: So this is a botanical supplement, an herbal supplement based on rosemary extract.
• 10:19
  SPEAKER_01: And, you know, we know that that's a potent anti-inflammatory molecule, and of course, it's an antioxidant.
• 10:25
  SPEAKER_01: And they've done some really extensive studies to look at whether it can actually remove advanced glycation end products from the skin.
• 10:34
  SPEAKER_01: So it's really designed to attack these AGEs that we know trigger aging in the skin, and they start accumulating when you're in your 20s.
• 10:43
  SPEAKER_01: So ages are a problem from the very get-go, and they, you know, escalate over time and they get worse when you are exposed to the sun.
• 10:51
  SPEAKER_01: Um, AGEs are super interesting to me, and I'd love to talk about glycation.
• 10:55
  SPEAKER_01: You know, I wrote a book about sugar, so it's right in my wheelhouse.
• 10:58
  SPEAKER_01: But this was really interesting, and Zoe Dreilos did a nice clinical study for them.
• 11:02
  SPEAKER_01: Giuseppe Velocki paired with her and did some really nice systologies where he did show these AGEs were removed from the skin or reduced, I should say, in the skin.
• 11:13
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, it was really impressive.
• 11:14
  SPEAKER_01: I thought they did a very in-depth dive at what this could do.
• 11:20
  SPEAKER_00: It was interesting.
• 11:21
  SPEAKER_00: Um, and again, this is from Skin Better, which is in the L'Oreal portfolio of companies.
• 11:26
  SPEAKER_00: And uh, this is a product they've been working on for seven years, I think it is.
• 11:30
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, you know, this nothing comes out from L'Oreal without ensuring safety is is paramount.
• 11:38
  SPEAKER_00: And yeah, uh, there's no diligence.
• 11:41
  SPEAKER_00: Right.
• 11:41
  SPEAKER_00: So I think that safety is there.
• 11:43
  SPEAKER_00: It's it's really a rosemarinic acid supplement that the the synthesis of it has been finely tuned to make sure that they get the highest concentration of the purest form.
• 11:55
  SPEAKER_00: Uh and they showed great antioxidative effects with lipid peroxidation reduction and and then of course the reduction in advanced glycation end products as well.
• 12:06
  SPEAKER_00: It's pretty cool.
• 12:07
  SPEAKER_00: And yeah, very cool.
• 12:09
  SPEAKER_00: You know, and I think it aligns with a lot of what we're doing in the office, which is treating people holistically for both their skin and body health.
• 12:16
  SPEAKER_00: And and I see this being one of the offerings that we all have.
• 12:20
  SPEAKER_00: And, you know, so it's it's a big launch.
• 12:23
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, that's a big launch for them, is right.
• 12:25
  SPEAKER_01: And uh I think you're right.
• 12:27
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, we've got to consider the inside out approach.
• 12:30
  SPEAKER_01: We do a lot of the outside in with the topicals, and you know, it's so tempting because we're dealing with skin and it's so easy to access from the outside.
• 12:38
  SPEAKER_01: But I think you know, consumers are interested in nutraceuticals.
• 12:40
  SPEAKER_01: Our patients are interested in nutraceuticals, you know?
• 12:44
  SPEAKER_01: They are there's huge, huge interest in it.
• 12:47
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, thank goodness for neutrophil, quite frankly, because neutrophil made our you know opened our eyes to the opportunity that supplements and botanical ingredients can can really make a difference, in particular for for hair growth.
• 12:59
  SPEAKER_00: I can't tell you how many of my patients are taking neutroph.
• 13:03
  SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
• 13:03
  SPEAKER_01: And the other thing I think they did is they set the bar up where you've got to do studies on your nutraceuticals.
• 13:09
  SPEAKER_01: And actually, I'm speaking, as you know, in a couple hours on nutraceuticals at the meeting, and I'm starting with a discussion on what do we look for with nutraceuticals?
• 13:18
  SPEAKER_01: And we look for studies.
• 13:19
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, and those companies that have studies um are definitely gonna find themselves ahead in the marketplace because that's what the consumer is now looking for.
• 13:28
  SPEAKER_01: Consumers hip to the fact that companies like Neutrafall have done studies.
• 13:33
  SPEAKER_00: So good for them.
• 13:34
  SPEAKER_00: Speaking of consumer companies, I think we we had a really interesting time visiting the Unilever booth where they have Dove and Vaseline and so many other that they are really leaning into cleanser technology and they've got some new Dove has some new cleansers that not only cleanse, you know, remove the the dirt and debris and the dead skin cells, but they leave on a layer of various uh ingredients depending on what you want, including, for example, hyaluronic acid or some other moisturizing ingredients.
• 14:09
  SPEAKER_00: They've got brightening ingredients.
• 14:11
  SPEAKER_00: I mean it's it's a mason.
• 14:13
  SPEAKER_01: Sal acid, they have acne.
• 14:15
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I mean, and they're they wash off, but they leave the active behind.
• 14:20
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, it's so cool.
• 14:22
  SPEAKER_01: It's so cool.
• 14:23
  SPEAKER_00: I I don't know how they do that.
• 14:24
  SPEAKER_00: It's like the shampoo and conditioner in one.
• 14:25
  SPEAKER_00: How can you use the shampoo to remove the oil and debris and then condition at the same time?
• 14:29
  SPEAKER_00: I don't get it.
• 14:30
  SPEAKER_01: I don't know.
• 14:31
  SPEAKER_01: But you know, they're a master at it.
• 14:33
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, you know, they're like the cleansing shampooing company.
• 14:36
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 14:37
  SPEAKER_01: Uh it's amazing.
• 14:38
  SPEAKER_01: We did get a picture of you in their shower, didn't we?
• 14:41
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, we did the booth at a shower, and a huge bedazzled Vaseline jar, which I was obsessed with.
• 14:47
  SPEAKER_00: I thought that was.
• 14:48
  SPEAKER_00: That was pretty cool.
• 14:49
  SPEAKER_01: I know.
• 14:49
  SPEAKER_01: I walked by it every time.
• 14:50
  SPEAKER_01: I like that is so cool.
• 14:53
  SPEAKER_00: Um, all right, so that was Unilever, and then we went to the Neutrogena booth, and all of Kenview uh was buzzing.
• 15:03
  SPEAKER_01: And they have as it all as it always is.
• 15:05
  SPEAKER_01: KenView's got so many great brands, you know.
• 15:08
  SPEAKER_01: And you and I both presented there.
• 15:10
  SPEAKER_01: So I I talked about Collagen Bank, which is a new consumer product.
• 15:14
  SPEAKER_01: I love the fact that they're targeting pre-aging.
• 15:18
  SPEAKER_01: So this is something that, you know, I think years ago we didn't recognize.
• 15:22
  SPEAKER_01: They have done over a hundred studies looking at this patient population.
• 15:27
  SPEAKER_01: These are young people who have complaints of loss of radiance.
• 15:32
  SPEAKER_01: You know, they come in your office and in everyone's office.
• 15:35
  SPEAKER_01: I my skin looks dull.
• 15:37
  SPEAKER_01: I'm starting to see a few little wrinkles, they have uneven skin tone, and they really have categorized it, and it's so interesting because they develop these things called aging turning points.
• 15:48
  SPEAKER_01: And if you have very light skin, Caucasian skin, Fitzpatrick's one and two, as we call them in Durham, you actually have an aging turning point at 25.
• 15:57
  SPEAKER_01: That's young.
• 15:58
  SPEAKER_01: If you if you have like a medium skin tone, it's 30, and if you have darker skin tones, it's 35.
• 16:03
  SPEAKER_01: So intuitively, we know darker skin types will age later than younger skin types.
• 16:09
  SPEAKER_01: But it's so cool that they categorized it.
• 16:11
  SPEAKER_01: And then they looked at loss of elasticity, which starts in the 20s, amazing.
• 16:16
  SPEAKER_01: Loss of collagen, which again starts very early in these patients with very light skin tones.
• 16:22
  SPEAKER_01: So then the solution is something that can prevent, obviously, and then boost collagen and boost elastin and other things.
• 16:31
  SPEAKER_01: And you're and I are both familiar with the cetyl dipeptide 31 amide, which I call AP31.
• 16:37
  SPEAKER_01: And that's a cool molecule that was developed by the research team at Kenview.
• 16:43
  SPEAKER_01: Took them eight years.
• 16:44
  SPEAKER_01: Again, same thing, eight years in development, and they did a lot of clinical testing.
• 16:49
  SPEAKER_01: They found it's a great anti-inflammatory molecule and it boosts the extracellular matrix, collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, decorin, and fibronectin.
• 16:58
  SPEAKER_00: Tiny little peptide, right?
• 16:59
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's a tiny peptide, 229 Daltons, and it goes right through the stratum corneum.
• 17:05
  SPEAKER_01: And it's, you know, obviously it's getting down to the fibroblast because it's turning on fibroblast activity, so it's really like a matricine, as we would call it.
• 17:13
  SPEAKER_01: And they paired it in the morning in the collagen bank product with an SPF-30.
• 17:20
  SPEAKER_01: So there's your prevention with treatment in the morning, and then the night product has Bacuchiol, which again is that botanical retinoid mimetic uh botanical, very cool, has been tested against retinol and has some very similar activity.
• 17:36
  SPEAKER_01: So I think it's a great play for a population that is generally underserved and floundering around trying to figure out what to use.
• 17:46
  SPEAKER_01: You know?
• 17:47
  SPEAKER_00: So I mean, I've been to Sephora and I get completely lost at Sephora.
• 17:52
  SPEAKER_01: You know, everybody gets lost at Sephora.
• 17:55
  SPEAKER_00: Um, and so having a product line like this, which we know has the right ingredients.
• 18:00
  SPEAKER_00: I I love the AM product with SPF.
• 18:02
  SPEAKER_00: I think that's brilliant.
• 18:04
  SPEAKER_00: A PM product with a with a retinoid mimetic makes a lot of sense.
• 18:08
  SPEAKER_00: Just to preserve the collagen and elastin and and all the the glycosaminoglycans in the dermis to make sure to make sure that your skin has the turger and the youthful appearance, just makes so much sense.
• 18:20
  SPEAKER_00: I really yeah, we're we're totally aligned on that product.
• 18:23
  SPEAKER_01: Uh and they're gonna hit a home run with it, it's gonna be a giant product.
• 18:27
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 18:28
  SPEAKER_01: Uh I was telling my kids about it, and they were all like, oh, we're we're probably too old for it.
• 18:32
  SPEAKER_01: I said, I think your ship sailed, guys.
• 18:36
  SPEAKER_01: Too much sunbathing and no collagen bank when you were in your twenties.
• 18:40
  SPEAKER_00: I um I had the amazing opportunity to meet Katie Ledecki here.
• 18:44
  SPEAKER_01: Oh, I wanted to meet her.
• 18:46
  SPEAKER_01: Oh my god.
• 18:46
  SPEAKER_01: How was that?
• 18:47
  SPEAKER_00: It was amazing.
• 18:48
  SPEAKER_00: And and she, you know, the most decorated female Olympic swimmer of all time.
• 18:54
  SPEAKER_00: And she is great.
• 18:56
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, we we really had a good conversation.
• 18:58
  SPEAKER_00: I really enjoyed meeting her.
• 19:00
  SPEAKER_00: So that's the kind of fun stuff that happens, you know?
• 19:02
  SPEAKER_01: Oh, yeah.
• 19:03
  SPEAKER_01: Well, wasn't Snoop Dogg around?
• 19:04
  SPEAKER_01: Snoop Dogg.
• 19:05
  SPEAKER_01: Snoop Dog in the house for New General.
• 19:08
  SPEAKER_01: Exactly.
• 19:08
  SPEAKER_01: We missed it.
• 19:09
  SPEAKER_00: We missed Snoop Dogg.
• 19:10
  SPEAKER_01: Unfortunately, we were working while Snoop Dogg was playing.
• 19:13
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, yeah, that's always the case.
• 19:15
  SPEAKER_00: Um, okay.
• 19:17
  SPEAKER_00: You know, there was another product that I came across that I was excited about.
• 19:20
  SPEAKER_00: This is from Skin Medica, which is an Allergan line.
• 19:24
  SPEAKER_00: Um, and Skin Medica has TNS serum and advanced TNS, and they do some really, really cool stuff.
• 19:29
  SPEAKER_00: And they had they launched this product called HA5, which has a five types of hyaluronic acid, from very small to high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, and and they showed that not only does the very small molecular weight penetrate, but it also induces more um endogenous hyaluronic acid production, which at that time was incredible.
• 19:47
  SPEAKER_00: And so they've upgraded this to HA5 hydrocollagen.
• 19:52
  SPEAKER_00: Uh so again, it still has those five types of hyaluronic acid, but they've added more technology to uh to increase collagen production as well.
• 20:02
  SPEAKER_00: So not only hyaluronic acid, but also collagen production uh in one product.
• 20:06
  SPEAKER_00: And I think that's interesting.
• 20:08
  SPEAKER_00: You know, and the theme is that we're seeing these products that are Swiss Army knife products that can do more than one thing.
• 20:15
  SPEAKER_00: Right and this kind of is right in that wheelhouse.
• 20:19
  SPEAKER_00: And and I was kind of excited to learn more about the HA5 Hydrocollagen uh innovation from Skin Medica.
• 20:25
  SPEAKER_00: Um and but you know, that was great.
• 20:28
  SPEAKER_01: Such a great company, they've always done such good work, they're so they're so in it to win it.
• 20:33
  SPEAKER_01: They're very they're really very good.
• 20:36
  SPEAKER_01: The research team there has been so good, and HA5's a great product.
• 20:39
  SPEAKER_01: Uh the original, I've not used the new one, but I'm sure it's going to be new and improved.
• 20:44
  SPEAKER_01: That's something we're seeing a lot of companies sort of retooling their old products because there's so much innovation in ingredients and technology for delivering ingredients.
• 20:57
  SPEAKER_01: So it they're smart to do that because you really can't rest on the laurels of what you launched 10 years ago.
• 21:03
  SPEAKER_01: And so we're we're seeing a lot of that, I think, across the board.
• 21:06
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 21:07
  SPEAKER_00: And then Patty, one of the big themes that we were talking about with a lot of companies was menopausal skin and how to take care of women going through menopause.
• 21:16
  SPEAKER_00: It's really a difficult issue.
• 21:19
  SPEAKER_01: It's a huge issue.
• 21:20
  SPEAKER_01: And some companies are really looking at it.
• 21:23
  SPEAKER_01: One that comes to mind is number seven.
• 21:25
  SPEAKER_01: Um, because I walked by their booth and they had sort of a big exhibit of products that were directed towards menopausal skin.
• 21:33
  SPEAKER_01: I didn't get to take a deep dive as to what's in them.
• 21:35
  SPEAKER_01: But just as a category, this is really important because you know, when you get older, that loss of estrogen really starts to accelerate collagen loss.
• 21:44
  SPEAKER_01: Obviously, your skin gets dry.
• 21:46
  SPEAKER_01: So there's a lot of things that are going on in patients at this age.
• 21:50
  SPEAKER_01: And hormones are obviously a part of the story, but that you still have to address the skin care needs of these patients.
• 21:59
  SPEAKER_01: And I I Love seeing companies again.
• 22:01
  SPEAKER_01: We talked about pre-aging.
• 22:03
  SPEAKER_01: Now we're talking about the postmenopausal, perimenopausal, postmenopausal patients, females.
• 22:10
  SPEAKER_01: We had a cute speaker at the Women's Durham Society luncheon.
• 22:14
  SPEAKER_01: Made me think about that story she told about her son.
• 22:19
  SPEAKER_01: What was her name?
• 22:20
  SPEAKER_01: Jennifer, I can't remember her last name.
• 22:22
  SPEAKER_01: She said correspondent from ABC.
• 22:25
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 22:26
  SPEAKER_01: Medical correspondent from ABC.
• 22:28
  SPEAKER_01: OBGYN.
• 22:31
  SPEAKER_01: And her little boy asked her if she had caught menopause like it was a disease.
• 22:37
  SPEAKER_00: And then I think her husband asked her if every woman goes through menopause.
• 22:41
  SPEAKER_01: Every woman like this.
• 22:44
  SPEAKER_01: She was great.
• 22:45
  SPEAKER_01: She gave a great talk.
• 22:47
  SPEAKER_01: But it's so true.
• 22:48
  SPEAKER_01: Menopause has been, it's something we didn't talk about 20 years ago with patients, that's for sure.
• 22:54
  SPEAKER_01: Now it's top of mind with everybody.
• 22:56
  SPEAKER_01: And I give social media some credit on that too.
• 22:58
  SPEAKER_01: There's a lot of really good LBGYNs out there talking about the changes in menopause and the importance of hormone replacement therapy, which after that WHI study really went by the wayside for a decade.
• 23:10
  SPEAKER_01: But now they're bringing it back.
• 23:12
  SPEAKER_01: And you know, I I think it's it's good times for women in menopause.
• 23:17
  SPEAKER_00: You know, I think the the only other product that I that I was exposed to this at this meeting that I'd like to talk about, there's a product from RSelf.
• 23:25
  SPEAKER_00: And we have actually had the the founder of R Self uh on our podcast, and they have come out, and and R Self is really based on a novel delivery system, and it's this multi-tiered vesicular delivery system that can deliver incredibly large molecules we'd never thought would be able to penetrate the skin.
• 23:43
  SPEAKER_00: And they have this this new all-in-one cream uh that I learned about that I was really excited about.
• 23:49
  SPEAKER_00: Again, utilizing their delivery system, they can they can put lots of different ingredients in there uh and and get delivered all at once and make sure that they're all compatible with each other.
• 24:00
  SPEAKER_00: And it really, I I just fell in love with this product.
• 24:04
  SPEAKER_00: I'm forgetting the name right now, but it's from ourselves, and I called it the Amazing Cream after learning more about it.
• 24:09
  SPEAKER_00: And so now in my mind it's called the Amazing Cream.
• 24:11
  SPEAKER_00: Do you remember what's in it?
• 24:13
  SPEAKER_00: Oh gosh.
• 24:14
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, definitely peptides and growth factors and and and they can deliver anything with that delivery system, right?
• 24:21
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, they can deliver everything, and and so that's another cream to watch out for.
• 24:26
  SPEAKER_01: Um it's a company to look at too, ourselves, because it's kind of cool.
• 24:30
  SPEAKER_01: And yeah, you and I have both both been following them.
• 24:33
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, and they've got their lip plumping, and and so while we were there at the uh at the booth, I was using lips pumped.
• 24:40
  SPEAKER_01: Oh yeah.
• 24:41
  SPEAKER_00: It works, let me tell you.
• 24:43
  SPEAKER_00: It really it's amazing what they're able to do.
• 24:45
  SPEAKER_00: And so I I think that's a a company that we need to keep an eye on, as you said.
• 24:49
  SPEAKER_01: And and how many exosome companies were in the exhibit hall?
• 24:53
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, you know, honestly, I don't know.
• 24:55
  SPEAKER_00: I didn't see I saw I saw a couple, but not as many as I thought.
• 25:00
  SPEAKER_00: Not like at in Paris where we were at MCAS, where every every other company was plant-derived exosomes.
• 25:06
  SPEAKER_00: Here, I really didn't see much at all.
• 25:09
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, there there was just a couple of them.
• 25:11
  SPEAKER_01: I think you and I were talking about exosomes, you know, like are do they have staying power or or are we gonna be on to the next thing before too long?
• 25:20
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 25:21
  SPEAKER_00: Um well, that's you know, I'm giving a talk with you at our session later on today, and and mine is on novel concepts and cosmeceuticals, and I'm kind of talking about that.
• 25:30
  SPEAKER_00: That we're uh you know, is it the exosome that we need to focus on, or is it the growth factor?
• 25:35
  SPEAKER_00: And how do we how do we really make those growth factors penetrate the skin?
• 25:39
  SPEAKER_00: So um I we'll see that's the challenge.
• 25:41
  SPEAKER_01: That's such a challenge because they're so big.
• 25:44
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 25:44
  SPEAKER_01: Um, but you know, the condition medium products have been around for a long time.
• 25:49
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 25:49
  SPEAKER_01: And they deliver growth factors.
• 25:52
  SPEAKER_00: A tiny little new company called Invo um has a new condition media product line that is just launching as well.
• 25:59
  SPEAKER_00: So we got to keep our eye on that.
• 26:01
  SPEAKER_00: They're they're producing some data also.
• 26:03
  SPEAKER_00: But I agree with you.
• 26:04
  SPEAKER_00: I think we learned from TNS.
• 26:06
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, could kind of going back to Skin Medica, you know, kudos to them for their conditioned media products.
• 26:11
  SPEAKER_00: And we didn't know exactly what was in them, but now we sure do.
• 26:14
  SPEAKER_01: And they categorized that and t tore it apart, found so many actives, so many things in that product.
• 26:24
  SPEAKER_01: Super interesting.
• 26:25
  SPEAKER_01: And then again, now we're seeing the evolution of it.
• 26:28
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 26:29
  SPEAKER_01: Well, I wonder what the next thing is.
• 26:30
  SPEAKER_01: What do you think?
• 26:31
  SPEAKER_01: And what do you think is the next on the horizon?
• 26:34
  SPEAKER_00: You know, I I think that the purifying these growth factors, um, like we're seeing there's a platelet derive derived growth factor company that has come in where these it's it's interesting, they're kind of going the other way.
• 26:47
  SPEAKER_00: They have their product already already FDA approved for injection into joints, for example, for healing and used orthopedically and surgically.
• 26:55
  SPEAKER_00: And now they're saying, okay, we already have FDA approval, let's apply it topically.
• 27:00
  SPEAKER_00: And uh, they're showing some really nice results after uh a blade of laser, for example.
• 27:05
  SPEAKER_00: And so I think we're gonna start seeing these specialized products that harness the technology and power of you know just a few growth factors at a time, but at a very high level, to really maximize the benefit of what those growth factors can do.
• 27:19
  SPEAKER_00: So platelet-degrived growth factors are great for immediate post-procedure, post-surgical uh healing.
• 27:25
  SPEAKER_00: And so I think what we'll see is you know, utilize those for the first few days, maybe a little bit longer, then transition to something that has a little bit more of a broad ingredient list to do, to do more.
• 27:37
  SPEAKER_00: But as we're able to use this technology to focus on certain ingredients, we may be able to do this kind of hit and run approach where we use one product for a few days, use another product after that to to you know shorten the healing time, and then another product for daily or or every other day use.
• 27:55
  SPEAKER_00: I think that might be where we're going.
• 27:57
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, and that that whole category of pre and post procedure is just ginormous.
• 28:02
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 28:02
  SPEAKER_01: And every company is looking at that that particular usage for a cosmoceutical.
• 28:09
  SPEAKER_01: And some of them are using some of the things they already have.
• 28:12
  SPEAKER_01: We've seen studies on CE ferulic from skin pseudicals, for example.
• 28:16
  SPEAKER_01: Joe Weibel did a nice study on that.
• 28:18
  SPEAKER_01: Um, but then there's other companies looking at that pre- and post-procedure space as well.
• 28:23
  SPEAKER_01: Um Lastin obviously has another giant in that area.
• 28:27
  SPEAKER_00: Yep.
• 28:27
  SPEAKER_01: And has tested their products.
• 28:29
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I think it's really exciting.
• 28:32
  SPEAKER_00: And and again, kudos to those small companies that are coming in with data.
• 28:35
  SPEAKER_00: We just love to see that.
• 28:37
  SPEAKER_00: So thank you for doing that.
• 28:38
  SPEAKER_00: Um, and we'll highlight all of that at the Science of Skincare Summit.
• 28:42
  SPEAKER_00: So uh more to come.
• 28:44
  SPEAKER_00: But Patty, it's been great.
• 28:45
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, you get to leave tonight.
• 28:47
  SPEAKER_00: I get one more day here.
• 28:48
  SPEAKER_00: Lucky you.
• 28:49
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 28:51
  SPEAKER_01: I can't wait to get home.
• 28:53
  SPEAKER_01: I'm tired.
• 28:54
  SPEAKER_01: I'm tired, tired, tired.
• 28:56
  SPEAKER_02: It's been a good thing.
• 28:57
  SPEAKER_01: Anyway, it was a great American Academy of Dermatology.
• 28:59
  SPEAKER_01: Thank everybody for listening to us today.
• 29:02
  SPEAKER_01: Ted, have a great day, and uh, we'll see you guys hopefully in Austin September 5th through the 7th this year.
• 29:08
  SPEAKER_01: Thanks so much.
• 29:09
  SPEAKER_01: Have a great day.
• 29:10
  SPEAKER_01: Bye.