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The Mouth of Hawkesbury: The Lambert Penninsula and Barrenjoey · Urban Ambling

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At the mouth of the Hawkesbury, Dire Ravine.
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The Lamb- the Lambert Peninsula and Barren Joey.
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Hello, and welcome to Urban Ambling.
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Mikaita speaking I thought we'd continue on with the Hawkesbury
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since we're at Brooklyn.
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And if you travel downstream from Brooklyn, it's not very far to the
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end of the Hawkesbury, to the place where it gives its tribute to the sea.
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And it's at a place called Juno Point, and the Hawkesbury flows into an arm of
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Broken Bay, which is called Cowan Water, which itself is a very large expanse
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of water and very attractive indeed.
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And it runs way down to Bobbin Head which is a recreational area
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and a marina area, which is just on the northern edge of Sydney.
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Now, as you come out of the Hawkesbury into Cowan Water, you'll have ahead of
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you a very high dramatic peninsula, and that's the Lambert Peninsula, and we'll
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talk more about its history shortly.
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But then just beyond that more to the east, there's another striking
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piece of country, which is Barrenjoey where there is a very old lighthouse.
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And it's a spot that is very easily accessible.
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It's a bit of a walk, but it's it's easily accessible from Palm Beach.
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And in turn you happily, you can reach Palm Beach by bus, although it's a,
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it's a fairly long and slow trip.
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So it's those two areas we want to talk about today.
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But just before we do the Garigal people it's pretty generally accepted, there's
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always disputes about who was where when, but the Garigal people pretty certainly
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lived on, certainly on and probably further around the Lambert Peninsula.
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And one thing I just want to mention is that the Garigal people, being very
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close to Sydney, were dramatically affected by the arrival of we Europeans.
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And in particular, the problem was a outbreak of smallpox, which occurred
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in April 1789, soon after the colony had been established, and had a
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devastating effect upon the Aboriginal peoples, obviously enough, because
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they had absolutely no immunity to this completely foreign disease.
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It was a bit of a mystery where it came from, but clearly the problem,
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the disease had been lurking amongst the Europeans who'd arrived.
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There'd been no cases of smallpox after they left the Cape of Good Hope so it,
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wasn't a problem with the Europeans, but unfortunately it very quickly
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spread through the Aboriginal people.
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And although these things are guesstimates there's something
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probably like about half the population was lost in a matter of months.
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now recently I was having a bit of a cleanup of books and I cleared out one
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row of books and, lo and behold, behind them I found a book going back about 50
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years, which in fact summarized a lot of the writings that Anthony Trollope made
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in his time here in about the 1870s.
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And I'd mentioned that in our last one on Brooklyn.
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But it was very interesting because there was a bit more detail.
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But I just want to read this passage in particular from his
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writings about the Hawkesbury.
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" Up along the riverbanks, there were numberless sites for private houses
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or for hotels, all of which might be reached within a few hours from Sydney.
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We saw but one house of any pretense, which I was told was occasionally
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inhabited by a gentleman's family.
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But residents here, except to a cockatoo farmer or to a hermit,
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is at present impossible.
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Though the place be no more than 40 miles from Sydney, it is altogether beyond
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reach as many parts of the Highlands of Scotland were some few years ago.
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In another space of a few years, there will probably be daily means of getting
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to the Hawkesbury, and there will be villas dotted on its banks and hotels
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of all description for the accommodation of Australian tourists." And that was
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a very interesting prediction, which thank heavens in fact never came to pass.
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Although in the course of just these few observations, I will record
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some of the threats that the Lambat Peninsula faced before it was ultimately
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declared a national park in 1961.
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And there were quite a few of those problems.
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And can I just mention another matter?
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If my pace of speech alters at times, it's because I think I
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have a tendency to talk too fast.
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So if I appear to go up and down, you'll know I'm trying to just slow myself up
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just before we go to the present, I just want to go back about 60,000 years just to
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record this, that in the time of the last ice age, the seas were about 20 kilometers
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further to the east, and otherwise the coast would've been out there.
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And if you were standing at that spot then, there wouldn't have been
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the expanse of water there is now, but there would've been rivers.
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The Hawksbury would've been flowing down.
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There would've been Cowan Creek flowing.
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There would've been a river flowing down from Br- Brisbane
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water direction to the north.
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There'd be rivers flowing down through the Pittwater area.
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So it was entirely different.
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And it seems that in those years when the waters were low, in fact
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Barrenjoey was joined by a low ridge to the Lambert Peninsula.
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You'd assume looking at it now that it was connected to the, Palm Beach Peninsula,
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but in fact it was connected to the Lambert Peninsula And when the, the seas
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came back in, that ridge was flooded.
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And what then happened is over many thousands of years, the sandbar, the
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sand spit, which now joins Barrenjoey to Palm Beach, was gradually built up.
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And I should just record that sometimes there was some farming and grazing
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on that sand spit, and in fact it was worn down something like about 10
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meters, and indeed may have disappeared if things had gone on that way.
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But fortunately, in about the 1960s, a positive rehabilitation program was
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put in place and vegetation, and now the sand spit really is quite secure.
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There was up until about, oh, 30 years ago, I suppose, a caravan park on the
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eastern side of the peninsula, so you had direct access to the beach, and it
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was a wonderful facility for But I think the residents of Palm Beach didn't like
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it too much, so it was closed then.
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And indeed, I was walking there with a very dear friend of mine a month or so
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ago, and he's now in his 80s, and he mentioned that he recalls as a child
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coming from their home in Strathfield every year to holiday at Palm Beach,
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and that would've been a pretty fantastic thing to do in those days.
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Now both places, as I mentioned before, Barrenjoey is accessible.
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The Lambert Peninsula is not so accessible.
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it's a fairly long drive.
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You turn off at Terrey Hills, you come down through Cole and Campbell Creek, and
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then there's a wonderful drive up to the end of the Lambert Peninsula, the northern
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end, where you have the lookouts of what's called Commodore Heights, and we'll deal
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with the naming of it in a short while.
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But it's a, it's a fantastic thing.
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It's in public ownership.
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It's basically intact, and that's the amazing thing about Dieyerubbin or
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the Hawkesbury, that downstream of Wiseman's Ferry, it basically just
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travels through land which was as it was before we Europeans turned up,
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and it's, a great blessing for Sydney.
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But there were numerous threats to the Lambeth Peninsula, and
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we'll run through some of those.
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It was probably partly saved because of its nature.
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It's what we call the Sydney Hawkesbury Sandstone country.
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There's a lot of rock.
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There's sandy soils.
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They're fairly thin, and it's, it's not really ideal for any sort of agricultural
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pursuits, and that probably saved it.
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But apart from that it was also a fair dollop of good luck.
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And to give you an idea about how the early settlers regarded this area,
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Governor Phillip went up very soon after they arrived to look round
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because his concern was, of course, to try and find land that they could use
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for agriculture and save the colony.
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But there was a map prepared by a gentleman called John Walters in 1791,
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and the area of the Lambeth Peninsula was described as very bad and rugged.
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And one other person who visited it in those days gave the description
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he thought it was nothing but rocks.
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Well, rocks it is, but if you look carefully, like a lot of things with the
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Australian bush, it's wonderful rocks.
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Now what happened with the Lambeth Peninsula is this, that as far
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back as September 1831, there was a grant of 640 acres right at the
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northern end right on Broken Bay, to a man called Alex Stuart Waddell.
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Now, he was a young chap that had come from Scotland, came to the colony
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sort of set out to make a big splash, and he he received a grant of land.
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Now, the odd thing was there's no suggestion he ever used it.
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And then not long after he got it, he sort of left the colony
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and was gone for a long time.
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He came back years later.
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He was a, by then a sea captain, but he was the first person to receive the grant.
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At the same time, there were also some grants of three smaller blocks
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along the western side, the eastern side of the Lambeth Peninsula,
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the western side of Pittwater, around the area of Mackrell Beach.
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And there still are settlements at Mackrell Beach and the
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beaches below and at the basin.
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was interestingly how the land was described at the time of the grant.
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it was thus "The point of land on the south side of Broken Bay
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between Pittwater and Cowan Creek in the parish of Broken Bay."
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Now it's said Waddell left and he, did no harm to the land, but
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it then passed in August 1834 to a man called William Lawson.
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Now there's some suggestion Lawson may have financed Waddell in the first
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place, but that doesn't really matter.
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Lawson was the chap who with Blaxland and Wentworth made the crossing of
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the Blue Mountains in 1815, which was of course critical for the colony
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because it opened up the agricultural lands west of the Great Divide.
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And Lawson had a lot of properties.
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He was a very successful person.
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and he had farms out west around Bathurst going up towards more to the north.
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So I, think he just got the land at Lambert Peninsula because he could,
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and no one really knows whether he ever went there, but he didn't do anything.
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Now Lawson lasted to 76 years, which was pretty good in those days,
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but died on the 15th of June 1850.
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And the land, he left various parcels of land, but which included the
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Broken Bay land to his daughter.
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She had married a fairly wealthy gentleman and was living at Oatlands
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House at Dundas, which is still exists.
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It's a reception place, and there's a golf course around it.
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she probably never thought about the land at Lambert Peninsula, may
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not even known anything about it.
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Now, the next thing that occurred is it remained in the Lawson family for some,
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oh, 60 or 70 years and in the time it was in the control of the administrators
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of Lawson's estate and one of his children's estate they must have made
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an arrangement with a gentleman called John Hector Lucas for in March 1886, he
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submitted a plan of subdivision covering not just the northern part of the
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Lambert Peninsula, but the whole of the Lambert Peninsula, and he was proposing
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for it to be subdivided into 470 lots.
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And he obviously had connections because the lands department at the
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same time began surveys with the idea of putting a road in from Terry
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Hills through to Commodore Heights.
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But happily, that was the first real risk to the Lambert Peninsula, but nothing came
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of the subdivision nor of the road at that time, although the road was later built.
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And there's an old plan, or the plan of subdivision from 1886 is
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really quite horrifying to look at.
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It's just the whole peninsula from side to side is covered with what probably
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were lots of a reasonable size, but there seemed to be an awful lot of them.
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So fortunately, the area survived that proposal and was finally in
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1924 that the Lawson family interest sold the property to a couple
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called John Miller and Rosa Mobbs.
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Now they were both developers, and they again wanted to resurrect
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the idea of subdividing the land and putting in a road.
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And they were proposing very generous size, you know, two, three-acre
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blocks, but nevertheless, it would've had an awful effect upon the area.
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And Mr. Miller was obviously a man who was not to be stopped because
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he began building an illegal road.
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But of course by this time the Kuring-gai Chase National Park had
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been created due to the intervention of Dufar, who we talked about earlier.
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So the trustees of Kuring-gai Chase National Park were going to have nothing
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of this, and the road never went ahead.
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But something very positive came out of Miller's and Mobbs' ownership because they
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happened in the early 1920s to hive off some small blocks right at the northern
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tip of the peninsula in an area we call Flint and Steel Bay, and sold to a Kiwi,
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a fairly eccentric man rejoicing under the wonderful name of Eardley Henderson
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McCaw, M-C-G-A-W, G-A-W And he was a wonderful person, and he built a, a most
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extraordinary home himself on Flint and Steel, which if I didn't say, is right
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on the northern tip of the peninsula.
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So although Trollope's predictions that we'd have fine houses and hotels
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covering every inch of the Hawkesbury Banks never came to pass Mr. McCaw
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did build a house, which is very sadly was burnt down in June 1971.
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But it would've been wonderful if it's still there because it
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was such a wonderful oddity.
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And I just want to read you a passage which describes both the house and
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the extraordinary efforts that McCaw went to to build this house, and
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it's called The House That Mac Built.
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And it was in a general history, a Pittwater history that I came
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across, and this is how it goes.
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" The doctor told Eardley McCaw that he had a bad he- bad heart and must give up work.
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McCaw took the doctor's advice seriously because the warning was
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grave, so he went and lived in a cave on the Hawkesbury River.
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He lived the life of a caveman for six months, and then he built
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himself a house of palm tree bark.
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Many rats, however, came to live in the house with him, and the games they played
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running about in the bark were disturbing.
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He therefore started on what came to be known as The House That Mac Built.
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Six years he took to build it as it stands today." And I think this was
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written in the perhaps late 1920s, early 1930s. " Room was added to room
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until nine were constructed. Soon it will be finished to stand as the most
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credible monument to one man's work."
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And then there's then a photograph, and the notation goes on to say, "As
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you can see by the photograph, the appearance of the house suggests the
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Swiss the Norwegian, or the Basque, or maybe the French or German." And,
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can I say that it also to me has a bit of Frank Lloyd Wright about it, the
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sort of the rough stonework, the, the extended eaves, the pitch of the roof.
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So we can throw into Swiss, Norwegian, Basque, French, or
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German, perhaps Frank Lloyd Wright.
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And it goes on, "The walls and floors are concrete, and wonderful
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work it is for a man who's had no previous experience in building.
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He's even achieved a very credible archway, and the fireplace is
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a masterpiece of graceful lines with colored concrete blocks to
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give a decorative appearance.
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The floors on the ground floor too are of green, red, and
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ochre colored concrete blocks.
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"The only materials Max bought were the joists, floorboarding, concrete, and
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cedar doors. The cedar doors came for Sir John and Lady Hay's Sydney house."
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Now I haven't got a clue who they are, but it must have been quite a house.
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" And are valued today at over 12 pounds each.
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The sand for the concrete was carried up from the river in kerosene tins, and
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the hill is a very steep one." And as there's noted in brackets, his heart
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must have recovered very well by his his living on the peninsula and the river.
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" Then when the walls were built, the real magnum opus began.
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Max started to gather shingles for the roof.
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He went into the hills and searched out forest oak.
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He would find a tree, cut it down, saw the trunk into 15 inch sections, quarter
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them, and split them into shingles.
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He would fill a chaff bag with about 60 or 70, lift them on his back, and
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walk two or three miles to the house." And the note again in brackets is, "I
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think his heart must have been almost normal by then," and close the brackets.
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And can I say, I think he must have had an extraordinary recovery, or the
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doctor got it wrong in the first place.
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" He hewed his shingles out of gullies, and he lowered them down precipices,
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and always there was the arduous two or three mile, mile walk.
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The house is roofed with 50,000 shingles.
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How far did he walk?
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You can work it out for yourself, but I should say he must have
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covered a couple of thousand miles carrying his bag of shingles.
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He had, of course, the journey there which would also amount to over-" 2,000
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miles, as well as the simple little performance of cutting the shingles.
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Now, as you travel down the Hawkesbury River, and can I just add, you're
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not really in the Hawkesbury at that point, you're in the Cowan Water and
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Broken Bay, you may see the house Mac built standing halfway up the cliff.
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He and his wife run it now as accommodation house, and if you
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desire a peaceful holiday under novel conditions in a house where the huge
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windows have no glass in them, when you climb up ladders to bedrooms to
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gaze out beneath overhanging eaves across blue water to the golden sands
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of Patonga Beach, then you should ask the launchman to drop you there.
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It says a lot for the climate of the Hawkesbury River that it should build up a
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sick man into one who can carry a 70-pound load up a steep hillside without any
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undignified loss of breath, which is far more than I could do, who can walk into
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Pimbled in five hours over a rough track.
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I trust that no unforeseen set of circumstances will ever bring me into
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physical contact with the man So that's just a very short, wonderful word picture
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of both of the man and of course he was as- assisted always by his wife
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in the building work and running it.
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What he would've been a most extraordinary character, would've
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been a wonderful person to meet.
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And it's a shame in a way that the house isn't there and that the national parks
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didn't have the sense, without being rude, to preserve it as a wonderful piece
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of history and a wonderful tribute to a couple of astonishing human beings.
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So, they lived there for a long time.
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The land was in fact resumed back into the Kuring-gai Chase National
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Park in about 1961 when it became the National Parks and Wildlife Service.
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But they let the McGaws stay on as what's called permissive occupants.
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But then they decided that they didn't really like it
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and wanted to knock it down.
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And by this time they were both in poor health and they'd
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moved down Narrabeen way.
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And as I say, it was left to a bit of rack and ruin and for some reason burnt down.
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Although I must say at the time it in the … when it was resumed, a group of
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young architects heard of it and went up and started looking at it and tried to
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fix it up a bit, and in fact, wrote to the government saying, "Look, this should
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be preserved and we're happy to do it.
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We're not gonna cost you money.
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We'll do it, but it's gotta be preserved as, as a wonderful piece of
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history," and as I say, a tribute to Mr. and Mrs. McGaw for what they did.
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But unfortunately all that fell on deaf ears, and we lost an
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extraordinary piece of history.
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The road that Mr. Miller had started to build illegally was eventually built in
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1927 by the government now apart from the Magores living there, there were only
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a few people living on the peninsula.
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And then in 1925, a surveyor called Sidney Williams Stokes came into partnership with
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the Millers, or Millers and Rosa Mobbs.
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And he had rather grand plans, and his plan was to turn the whole end
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of the peninsula into, in essence, what would be called a country club.
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Now, mind you, they decided to do all this in the late 20s and then
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through into the Depression, so they didn't pick an ideal time.
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But they did have a prospectus which had a wonderful and quite a good photo
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called The Panorama From the Riviera.
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And it's a quite astonishing photo for its times, which takes in Barrenjoey,
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Elliott Island, Lion Island we now call it, and the northern shore of Broken Bay.
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And they set up an entity called the Riviera Cooperative Country
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Club, which was going to have settlements, golf courses, and
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everything your heart could desire.
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But again that came to nothing so the peninsula had survived all
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that, but there was one other very interesting thing that occurred in
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just almost at the turn of the century.
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And I'll just read a note from The Time, and it's to this effect.
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" Soon afterwards, the entire fate of Commodore Heights might have changed
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dramatically if Sydney engineer F.
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Oliver Jones had had his way.
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In June 1899, just a few days before the people of New South Wales were to
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vote in a referendum on the Australian Federation Bill, a full-page article by
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Jones appeared in The Daily Telegraph.
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In it, Jones proposed that the federal capital of the new federation
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be built on, quote, 'worthless land at Ku-ring-gai Chase.'"
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So he was echoing the words of the observer back in 1789.
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" "The Chase would become the province of New Arcadia, and the capital would
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be called Pacifica. The buildings would em- modeled on those in London with the
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Houses of Parliament, the Treasury, the military headquarters, a federal library,
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a national garal- gallery, an Australian university for men and one for women".
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You'll be happy to note, ladies.
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not a combined one, of course, that'd be too much.
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" The Crystal Palace, a deer park, Empire Gardens, and so on, situated in the park.
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The Pittwater section was to be devoted to military training, and
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a railway line would run the whole length of the Lambert Peninsula.
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If necessary, a fort and guns would be l- located at Commodore Heights".
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Well, you've got to admire Mr. Jones.
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He was a man of big ideas but not surprisingly it came to naught.
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Quite apart from, there would be many reasons, but of course, the Victorians
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never would've had a bar of the capital being in Sydney, and that's how we
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ended up, of course, with Canberra because it was halfway in between
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So that's the tale of the Lambert Peninsula.
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Although I should explain how it came to be called the Lambert Peninsula.
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It was in fact named after a, a naval officer called Roly Lambert,
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Royal Navy, and he, in 1868, was appointed the commander-in-chief
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of the Australian station.
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And that's the position that that was the British Navy when they were in Australia,
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and it was in fact the British who built Admiralty, Admiralty House in Sydney.
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And we've talked about that also in a previous episode.
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And it was in 1868 that new names were given to this area, and the choices were,
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surprise, surprise, Lambert Peninsula after Roly, and Commodore Heights picking
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up the fact that he was a commodore.
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So that's where the name came from.
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He was only in Sydney for a fairly short while because on the 21st of July 1870,
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Lambert was appointed to what sounds like an extraordinary position as a
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naval aide-de-camp to Queen Victoria.
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And he went back to London, but sadly he didn't last too long and died at the
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age of 52 in 1880 Now just returning to barrenjoey there was agitation in
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about 1863 for a light to be erected on or near Barrenjoey, certainly at the
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entrance to Broken Bay, and the reason was that that was the only effective
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refuge place between Sydney and Newcastle.
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And the person who was most agitating this was a member of the Legislative
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Assembly called Robert Stewart who was a member for East Sydney.
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And he pressed for it and it took some time.
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There were inquiries at various times 1867, 1868.
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One person who looked at it thought the best spot would be putting it on Elliott
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Island, which we now call Lion Island, but that was overruled and it was finally
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decided to put the lights on Barrenjoey.
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And it wasn't the lighthouse we now have, that was built a bit
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later, but they built two lights
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and one was to be the inner light more towards the land was to be 20
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feet above the ground, the rock.
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And the second one was to be 10 feet above the rock which would
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enable ships to line themselves up.
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And they were called Stewart's Lights in a tribute to the fact
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that Stewart had pressed for it.
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And they weren't there for too long because in 1881 the
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current lighthouse was built.
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Now, Stuart, I should just mention, and I've really gone
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on too long, but there we go.
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Stuart had a most extraordinary history.
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Some years after all this occurred, his first wife had died and he
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remarried, and he, he has the most extraordinary distinction that he got
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married in Sydney to his new wife on a certain day and died on the same day.
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It certainly wasn't the bride's best idea of a happy wedding.
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Now, as I just mentioned Barrenjoey is, well worth a walk because you
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can just come to the golf course.
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You walk up the eastern side of the golf course.
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You then go onto the beach.
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You can go up a road, which is very pleasant, or you can go up what's
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called the Smuggler's Stairs.
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Now, there's a fair few of them, but you can stop, and anyone
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of average fitness could do it.
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And the views both from Lambert Peninsula, Commodore Heights, and
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Barrenjoey are just fantastic.
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So it's just another example of the great attractions and blessings
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we've got in Sydney, and I hope that you're able to go there soon.
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Now, I must say I've neglected to have a little fact for today.
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I'm not abandoning them.
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But the little fact for today is I forgot to get the little fact.
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That's enough from me.
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Until next time, stay well, keep ambling, choose to be happy.
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And until then, cheerio.