Latest / Chef's PSA Podcast / Finding Your Unique Style As A Chef Ep. 65
Transcript
- 0:00Hello Chefs, This is Chef's PSA podcast.
- 0:02I'm your host, Andre Natera. On today's episode, we're going
- 0:04to talk about finding your unique style as a chef.
- 0:07Stay tuned. So before we get into it, quick
- 0:21update on something that I'm working on.
- 0:23I'm doing a super secret popup chef in residence.
- 0:28I'll share more on my Instagram profile, but coming out of a
- 0:32quick retirement to have some fun in the kitchen, I'm excited.
- 0:35Have to make sure I could still walk that talk.
- 0:39Someone said to me, he said you talked a lot of shit on the
- 0:41Internet and on your podcast. Can you still do it?
- 0:45Well, we're we're about to find out if I still got it.
- 0:47So I'm taking over a restaurant really briefly.
- 0:51Chef in residence. I did it because I want to have
- 0:54a little fun. I do miss the kitchen at times
- 0:57and this allows me to kind of, you know, see, see if I could
- 1:00still do it, See if I can still hang with the the top dogs in
- 1:03the city. More to come on that.
- 1:05I don't want to give away all the details, but I will be
- 1:08announcing more soon on Chef's PSA social sites.
- 1:12So keep your eyes peeled. I'll tell you more.
- 1:15Maybe even for those of you that are looking for work, you might
- 1:17want to come work with me. It'll be short, but we'll have
- 1:20some fun. For those of you that are
- 1:22asking, yes, I I do enjoy doing these things.
- 1:24Like I do guest chef spots occasionally.
- 1:27I did one in Dallas and Jose, I still do food festivals when it
- 1:31makes sense, right? I'm not representing a kitchen,
- 1:34I'm retired. I'm representing Chef's PSA
- 1:36podcast. So sometimes it doesn't make
- 1:38sense for me to be out there cooking.
- 1:40But for those of you that have reached out and said I'd love to
- 1:42do a pop up with you, would I be interested?
- 1:46Yeah, I'd be interested. But you know, the fact of the
- 1:49matter is I don't have an army behind me like I used to.
- 1:53Chef's PSA is a one man show. It's just me.
- 1:56Someone asked me who makes the comics.
- 1:58I do, Who writes the captions, me, who edits the books, me, who
- 2:03edits the podcast and the video and the audio and writes the
- 2:07scripts. Guess who?
- 2:10Oh yeah, it's all me. But in my quest for world
- 2:12domination, I think eventually I'm going to have to expand.
- 2:15I have a couple of surprises coming up on the podcast.
- 2:20Some collabs. I can't share all the details,
- 2:24but I think you'll all be happy. A lot of people asked me to talk
- 2:27on service, a lot of people asked me to talk on pastry
- 2:29projects and those episodes are coming to.
- 2:32And for those of you that have been asked now with regards to
- 2:35the subject matter, finding your unique style as a chef.
- 2:40When I was a chef, one of the things that used to frustrate me
- 2:42would be when I hire someone who has zero experience in the
- 2:45kitchen and maybe I was hiring them for something high end,
- 2:48right? I've always been a chef of the
- 2:50higher end kitchens and I've always had a great team of chefs
- 2:52behind me, Extremely talented sous chefs, extremely talented
- 2:56chef to cuisines, exec sue and so on.
- 2:58And when I run a kitchen, I expect greatness.
- 3:01Excellent. And we're always pushing to be
- 3:04at the top of the food chain or whatever market that we're in.
- 3:08And at times I would get frustrated because the new cook
- 3:10would come in and not even fully understand their own skill set
- 3:14yet like still trembling and holding a knife.
- 3:16Can't really dice an onion too well and green and then say
- 3:21things like when can I get my food on the menu And I'd be
- 3:25like, what's your food? And then they'd proceed to tell
- 3:29me and it has nothing to do with the type of restaurant that I
- 3:32was running. So for example, if I was running
- 3:34like a high end live fire concept restaurant, they'd want
- 3:38to tell me about their famous Enchilada casserole or whatever,
- 3:43right. They said, well, you know, I
- 3:44just came back from the Caribbean and I was like, this
- 3:46is into Caribbean restaurant, so my family's from here.
- 3:49We want, I want to do that food. It's like, great, that's not
- 3:52this restaurant. It'll blow my mind.
- 3:54How many people want to do their food, their food?
- 3:58They don't even have food. Like, they haven't even gotten
- 4:02to the point where they could create something that would be
- 4:07on the level of the restaurant where they maybe work, right?
- 4:10Because maybe they're, they're working as a prep cook and
- 4:11they're like, when can I get my dish on the menu?
- 4:13Like, focus on the onion. You got to learn how to dice
- 4:16those first, right? You got to walk before you can
- 4:18run these steps. And then occasionally I'd say,
- 4:21okay, let me see what you got. And they put up like this
- 4:23terrible dip. They're like, oh fuck, that's
- 4:25not going on the menu. No way.
- 4:28I'm, I'm, I'm being, I'm being rude, but the reason I share
- 4:34this. So there's that.
- 4:35So my advice, if you're going into a new kitchen, you kind of
- 4:39got to feel it out a little bit. Is that kitchen the type of
- 4:41place where it's collaborative? Everyone's inputting ideas, and
- 4:45there's a lot of kitchens like that.
- 4:46And I I have kitchens like that where I would encourage people.
- 4:49We'd have a certain day of the week where everyone was intended
- 4:52to be putting dishes forward. A lot of times they'd be coached
- 4:55by some of the sous chefs, but we'd look at all the ideas and
- 4:59say, okay, this is actually a really cool component, but it
- 5:02didn't mean that the dishes were getting on the menu.
- 5:03It's just an opportunity to express every now and again.
- 5:06So, like, whoa, wasn't expecting that that dish needs to go on
- 5:09the menu. Other places they meet at the
- 5:12end of every night, they review the menus, they talk about what
- 5:14they're going to serve the next day, and everyone's putting an
- 5:16input. And the final result of the menu
- 5:19is like this amalgamation of ideas from all those that were
- 5:23in their input. Other places, they might have a
- 5:26whiteboard where they write ideas down.
- 5:28Other places they might have a special, and different cooks are
- 5:32putting up ideas for the special, or maybe they're
- 5:34creating the special for the day.
- 5:35They have a rotation. Whatever the case may be not all
- 5:40kitchens are like that and there isn't A1 size fits all for every
- 5:44kitchen. Some kitchens you may never get
- 5:47a dish on the menu type a personality chef nothing But my
- 5:50food and other places. It's collaboration with the
- 5:52billion dollar question what is your food chef run into this
- 5:56problem When I was coming up as a cook early on in my career,
- 6:00I've talked about this before. My idols were the Charlie
- 6:03Trotters of the world, the Thomas Keller's the Ferran,
- 6:07Audrea's. You know, I was coming up in the
- 6:09late 90s, early 2000s as a cook and chef, and so those were the
- 6:13chefs that were the top of the food chain.
- 6:15And so I wasn't the only one. Every single chef during that
- 6:20time that wanted to make a name for themselves were all cooking
- 6:24like Charlie Trotter or Ferran, Audrea or Thomas Keller or
- 6:28whoever was at that moment, right.
- 6:29Maybe it was Emeril Agasi or Norman Bacon.
- 6:33A little bit earlier would have been Mark Miller and Dean
- 6:35Ferring and Stephen Pyles, but you had all these chefs that
- 6:37were expressing the ideas of others.
- 6:40And so a lot of times when they'd say I want to do my food,
- 6:43you know, I I was guilty of this too.
- 6:45I remember telling my chef I want to do my food and he's like
- 6:48present me a dip. And I did a dish right under the
- 6:52Charlie Trotter cookbook. It was a potato tureen.
- 6:54I don't remember what else was in it.
- 6:57It was definitely a potato tureen that I had made and I
- 6:59served it with a Curry oil. I have to go back and look and
- 7:02see what that dish actually was. I do remember the Curry oil.
- 7:07I remember talking to my chef and him saying, why is there
- 7:10Curry oil on this? And I said, well, Charlie
- 7:12Trotter does and he's like, you ain't Charlie Trotter.
- 7:16So what was my food? Was it really my food, or did I
- 7:19just want to serve food that I wanted to cop food, that I was
- 7:23inspired food, that I was looking at different cookbooks
- 7:26and say that's my food, it's not.
- 7:29I want to cook like Charlie Trotter, so I'm adopting that as
- 7:32mine or whoever the chef inspiration was.
- 7:35I want to cook like Gordon Ramsay or whoever Gran Accotts
- 7:39or Ron Audria. Today you might be wanting to
- 7:42cook like Rene Redzepi or the Roca Brothers or whoever, right?
- 7:47So what is your food? Is your food what you grew up
- 7:51with? Is it the food that was in your
- 7:52household? Is it what your mom used to cook
- 7:54for you or your grandmother or your parents?
- 7:56Is it what the neighbor's parents used to cook for you?
- 7:59Is it walking up to the little shack on the beach and eating
- 8:03the food right there? Was it going to the farmers
- 8:05market and coming back with something?
- 8:07What is your food? A lot of chefs face this
- 8:10identity crisis because they don't know what their food is.
- 8:14You could work for years under a certain chef and you can't wait
- 8:17to get out of their shadows. So you could express yourself on
- 8:20a plate to do your food, and then when the opportunity
- 8:23presents itself, you just end up cooking like the chef you worked
- 8:26for with a slight tweak on it. But it's still what you were
- 8:30taught. It's a version of what you were
- 8:33already shown. If you remember the movie coming
- 8:36to America, the first one with Eddie Murphy, like they're
- 8:39McDonald's or Mcdowell's, they had like their version of the
- 8:42Big Mac or the quarterback. I don't know where it was, but
- 8:45it was funny, like the exact same thing, just slightly
- 8:48different. And a lot of times that's what
- 8:50happens, is you work in a restaurant for so long and
- 8:53you've gotten really good at preparing a certain style of
- 8:58someone else's vision, and now you have your chance set back.
- 9:00What do you do? Do you replicate that vision or
- 9:03do you truly have a unique style?
- 9:05I don't know. They tell you.
- 9:08In most of my experience, when I've worked with chefs and they
- 9:12come with these ideas, it's normally ideas that they had
- 9:16from the previous restaurant where they were this chef's PSA
- 9:19that I say, no matter how well you do something, another chef
- 9:22thinks you're wrong. And the reason I say that is
- 9:24because when you're coming up in your career, you're shown
- 9:28something, whether maybe it's in culinary school and then you get
- 9:31out into the real world, or maybe it's one of your first
- 9:33jobs and it's a chef that you really liked.
- 9:36And they said all stock needs to have oxtail in it to give it
- 9:40flu. I don't know, maybe it's
- 9:42something like that. I know my chef said that to me.
- 9:44And so to this day, sometimes I put oxtail in my veal stock or
- 9:48in my beef stock. I worked for another chef.
- 9:50It's all stock for chicken has to be made with whole chickens,
- 9:55and it's shorter because it keeps it clear.
- 9:59And I used to do that. I don't do it anymore.
- 10:02Or other people were would say don't put too much celery in the
- 10:06stock. And other chefs I've worked for
- 10:09would say you need to make sure that you're putting pig's feet
- 10:13and chicken wings and necks. There's more collagen in the
- 10:16pig's feet. So you got to put that in there,
- 10:18got to skim the stock a certain way.
- 10:19You got to brush it with whatever the case may be.
- 10:23Every chef has a little something that they do.
- 10:26Grind the Bolognese mirror, plop through the meat grinder.
- 10:29Others are like, no, no, you got to broom.
- 10:31What, by hand? No, just put it in the robo
- 10:33coop. It's best if you do this.
- 10:36What's the right way? I don't know.
- 10:38There There really is no right way because someone could argue
- 10:42against it. No matter how well you do
- 10:43something, someone else can argue against it that their way
- 10:46is better because the end result is subjective, especially when
- 10:50the person is emotionally tied to the product.
- 10:53So coming up in my career, I cooked in a lot of Italian
- 10:56restaurants. I cooked in a lot of European
- 10:57style restaurants, French, etcetera, Mediterranean,
- 11:00Southwest cuisine. Also at one point in time was
- 11:03coming up in that Southwest cuisine style, ever wanted to
- 11:06cook like Mark Miller and Dean Ferry.
- 11:08And when I finally got my opportunity at bat and they said
- 11:10you could finally express yourself and do whatever you
- 11:14want. And now I'm the executive chef
- 11:15and I'm at the helm of the kitchen, what did I do when I
- 11:18finally was able to do my own food?
- 11:21I copied for Anna. I started doing bubble food,
- 11:25right? So this is like 2005, because
- 11:27that's what I wanted to do. Was it my food that I work at El
- 11:30Bulli? No, but I was fascinated from
- 11:34afar and I had the El Bulli cookbooks and I was watching
- 11:37what they were doing and I was idolizing that style of cuisine.
- 11:41And I wanted to understand the alginates, verifications and how
- 11:45to make mangoes into a bubble, right, and froth up sauces with
- 11:51less a thin or whatever the case may be, make a spaghetti noodle
- 11:54out of Agar. It was fun, right?
- 11:58But it wasn't my food. And so little by little I've had
- 12:02to start to rediscover who am I as a chef?
- 12:06What is my style? Is it this or is it that?
- 12:10And sometimes you get hired as a chef and you take on the
- 12:12identity of the restaurant that you're hired in.
- 12:14So an example would be you get hired in a Mediterranean
- 12:17restaurant. You can't say, well, I do
- 12:19Chinese food, right. If that's just not going to
- 12:21work, well, then you're not going to be the chef here.
- 12:22So sometimes you adapt to the restaurant and to the
- 12:25environment in which you're placed in.
- 12:29And other times you run a restaurant where you have
- 12:33creative control and not only are you driving the brand,
- 12:37you're also driving the identity of the food and the creativity
- 12:40of chefs struggle with this. I know.
- 12:42I struggle with you're always influenced by the current trend.
- 12:46You're influenced by social media, you're influenced by
- 12:48what's on TV. Where do your ideas come from?
- 12:51Do you just fall asleep and then these ideas pop in your brain?
- 12:53Do they come from external sources?
- 12:56The reality is almost all your ideas are regurgitated from
- 13:01external sources. Books, social media, your
- 13:05training, your parents, your experiences.
- 13:08Coming up with original ideas is extremely difficult.
- 13:11You could look at very original chefs, like I said, Farhan
- 13:14Audra, he revolutionized the world when he came out with the
- 13:17food that he was doing at Obuli. The molecular gastronomy
- 13:21movement changed the world. And I don't know if he copied
- 13:25that and if he did, I don't know who he copied it from because
- 13:30it's not easy to trace to say, oh, he clearly got it from here.
- 13:34Or you look at what Renee Rinzeppi was doing.
- 13:36He went through the whole foraging thing in the Nordic,
- 13:39the New Nordic. Where did he get that from?
- 13:41I'm sure historically people have always been cooking like
- 13:43that, but professionally, people weren't cooking like that on
- 13:46that level. So he redeveloped that.
- 13:49Thomas Keller being what he did in Napa Valley at the French
- 13:53Laundry. No one was doing that before
- 13:54him. Charlie Trotter, the same thing.
- 13:56So some of these greats, the mountain Rushmore of chefs,
- 14:00right, they marched to the beat of their own drum.
- 14:02They create their own unique style and they create and
- 14:05everyone borrows and copies or gets inspired by it.
- 14:09I'm no exception to that. I borrowed from all of them and
- 14:12then claimed it to be my own style.
- 14:14What's the what's the expression it takes a thief to catch a
- 14:17thief. Have you ever heard that people
- 14:20have to know how to steal before they can catch someone who is
- 14:23also stealing? Right.
- 14:25We're all getting inspired by social media.
- 14:26It's it's it's really easy to police it now, right?
- 14:30Go back and say, hey, that's the dish that so and so was serving.
- 14:33And so after all this time, I would say I was looking that
- 14:38dishes that I was cooking. So I'm working on this this
- 14:42menu. I talked about it a little bit
- 14:43earlier in the podcast and I'm creating this menu and it's
- 14:47basically the greatest hits of my career, just modernized for
- 14:502023 in the environment that I'm And as I'm going back and
- 14:54looking at dishes throughout my career, I'm like, wow, this
- 14:59looks really bad. I would not, Sir.
- 15:00I would not played it this way, even stuff that was just five
- 15:05years ago or four years ago and was very cutting edge at the
- 15:08moment. I look at it now and say it
- 15:10looks so dated. It was delicious, but it looked
- 15:13dated. Plating styles evolved,
- 15:16ingredient trends evolved very quick.
- 15:18I would challenge you if you've been around long enough.
- 15:22So, you know, I know, I know a lot of people.
- 15:23Maybe you're writing culinary school, so this might not apply
- 15:25to you, but go back and look at the food that you were making
- 15:28that you were extremely happy and proud with just a few years
- 15:31ago. And look at it today and see if
- 15:33you're still proud of it. And I don't mean, like maybe it
- 15:36tasted, but just I'm talking about the plating and the
- 15:38aesthetics of it, the style, right?
- 15:40So food is like fashion. It's always moving forward.
- 15:42I think it'd be really interesting to do with chefs to
- 15:45say post what you did 10 years ago or five years ago, post what
- 15:49you're doing today and do side by side my food, five years ago,
- 15:52my food today. I think that would be fun.
- 15:56So you could see how far you can come, so you could see the
- 15:59techniques that you've learned. You could document your history.
- 16:02You could document what you've learned throughout your career.
- 16:05Much easier, right? Keep good notes, get the
- 16:07Evernote app, log everything, take great photos of your food,
- 16:12make notes and save them for later because you're able to
- 16:16document your career progression.
- 16:18And So what does that boil down to?
- 16:20Right? When I came up, as I said, I was
- 16:22working in French and Italian restaurants, Mediterranean
- 16:26style, and so now my food is this amalgamation of the thing
- 16:30that I learned early on on my specific stations that I made.
- 16:35I noticed that's what I like cooking now.
- 16:36That's my food and is it my food?
- 16:40Kind of right. That's what I was taught.
- 16:42It's the best and the things that I enjoyed most from what I
- 16:46was taught as a chef and the things that I crave now is like
- 16:49a properly made lobster bits, tornados, rossini gnocchis.
- 16:53It's not the complex things that I've made throughout my career
- 16:57anything. The more complex and showy thing
- 17:00are the things I'm most embarrassed by now.
- 17:03And the most simple and delicious things are the things
- 17:07I'm most proud of. And I still carry with me the
- 17:10dichotomy of a shot. What's your food?
- 17:14I don't know. You need to find that out
- 17:17anyway. If you want to support the show,
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