Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / The Bluff with Costume Designer, Antoinette Messam | The Costume House with Spencer Williams
Transcript
- 0:13She dove in and did so much of her own stunts and the action
- 0:17and I reposted it and tagged her set.
- 0:21Costumer, who I knew had panic attacks on a daily basis, was
- 0:27literally there biting her nails because Priyanka decided, no,
- 0:31don't bother, I'll just roll in the ground in the dirt and
- 0:35dropping and messing herself up in all the leaves in the dirt
- 0:38and then getting up and say I'm ready and I'm like, no, I've got
- 0:41to match all six of those. Welcome to The Costume House
- 0:48with Spencer Williams, a podcast dedicated to the art and
- 0:51storytelling of costume design and film and television.
- 0:55I'm your host Spencer Williams, and for today's episode we're
- 0:58heading to the shores of a sun soaked island where secrets,
- 1:02survival and spectacle collide. We're talking about the new film
- 1:07The Bluff. I'm so excited to welcome back a
- 1:09long time friend of the podcast, costume designer Antoinette
- 1:13Messam, to talk about her work on the sweeping high stakes
- 1:17story The Bluff Falls. A Caribbean woman who's hidden
- 1:21past resurfaces when her island is invaded by a ruthless crew of
- 1:25pirates, setting the stage for a story of resilience, identity,
- 1:30and confrontation. In our conversation, we dive
- 1:32deep into the research that informed A distinct worlds
- 1:35within the film, from the clothing of the island's
- 1:37community to the visual language of the pirates themselves.
- 1:40We talk about the challenges and thrills of designing for a
- 1:43pirate crew, the striking presence of Bloody Mary's
- 1:46legendary cross, and how elements like blood, salt, and
- 1:50sand quite literally shaped the costumes on screen.
- 1:53And of course, we had to talk about an unforgettable moment at
- 1:56the Bluff red carpet, one that made my costume nerd heart
- 2:00absolutely scream. So without further ado, let's
- 2:03step inside the costume house. I am so happy to welcome back to
- 2:21the podcast a long time friend of mine, someone whom I just
- 2:24love talking to all the time, costume designer Antoinette
- 2:27Messam. Hello Antoinette, how are you?
- 2:29So good to see you. Spencer, I miss you.
- 2:34We have fun in these things. I'm so happy we get to talk
- 2:37about what is, I think, one of my most amazingly, challengingly
- 2:44beautiful projects. I always How's that?
- 2:47How's that first start? Yeah, exactly.
- 2:50I always look forward to talking to you, and I wish you could
- 2:52have heard the scream. I scrumped when I was watching
- 2:55the trailer for The Bluff. And I was like, who designed?
- 2:58First of all, I love a pirate film.
- 3:00And when I looked it up and I was like, Antoinette did this.
- 3:03I was like, oh, hell yeah. No, it got a Pretty Little twist
- 3:08in it, yeah. So let's get into it.
- 3:11I've been dying to talk to you about this.
- 3:13So let's start with the director of the film, as you know, as we
- 3:16always tend to start, director Frankie Flowers.
- 3:19Tell me about your collaboration with him and what drew you to
- 3:22the story originally of The Bluff.
- 3:25Well, I was really fortunate to meet Frankie, our director pre
- 3:33strike and, and I say that that it was fortunate, wasn't
- 3:38fortunate being on strike and being off that long, but it
- 3:41enabled me to meet with him in person a couple of times and and
- 3:46talk about the project and we bonded immediately over our
- 3:50Caribbean roots. He's from the Cayman, I've
- 3:53learned to say that correctly. Cayman Island, and I'm Jamaican
- 3:58and Cayman is our sister island. When they were settled, we being
- 4:07the bigger island supported, came in with supplies and and
- 4:11military support. And I mean there was nothing on
- 4:14the island. So they're most of their food
- 4:16sources, etcetera. Went came from Jamaica.
- 4:20So I actually have family on the island who know Frankie Flowers
- 4:26family. So that was impressed.
- 4:28And as soon as I found that out, but we, I'd heard the story of
- 4:36the female pirate growing up, you know, in school, I went to
- 4:40primary school, public school in Jamaica and it was a folklore.
- 4:43It was one of our folklores, our fairy tales.
- 4:46And you know, once he, I read the script, I, I said, I know
- 4:52this story. And we, we dove into that.
- 4:55But more importantly, what enabled me by meeting with him
- 5:00early is to get an idea of the tone he wanted for this movie.
- 5:06It definitely was not Disney, you know, And I say that in the
- 5:11sense that this is this is as R rated as you're going to get.
- 5:15And he wanted that element of, of rugged and gritty and
- 5:23tactical interwined into the costumes and the tone.
- 5:28So that was a, a really quick pivot for me because I, I didn't
- 5:33visualize it quite that far right off the top.
- 5:37So I'm glad I got to spend time with him to, to figure that out.
- 5:43And what I mean by spending time, we met a few times.
- 5:47Let me not, let me be clear, because when I hear about other
- 5:51designers who get to spend months upon months with their
- 5:54directors, I'm like, I'm so jealous.
- 5:57Yeah. It was a couple Zoom meetings.
- 5:59Perhaps you know what I mean. And you know, a coffee maybe.
- 6:02I think 2 coffee meetings. Yeah.
- 6:04So it was lovely, but I'll take it.
- 6:06It was great. But what you got was still led
- 6:09to a very cohesive tone that went from beginning to end of
- 6:13this film of the bluff. So I don't get to talk about
- 6:18pirate esque stories very often on this podcast.
- 6:21Honestly, it's something that I feel like I've been missing out
- 6:23on. I mean, yeah, you know, we've
- 6:24talked about pirates before. But so now that I get to talk to
- 6:28you, I'm kind of want to nerd out a little bit on this.
- 6:30With you for a. Little bit.
- 6:32So can we just talk about the research for a little bit,
- 6:34talking about pirates? So where do you start with this
- 6:37in terms of the research process, diving into the
- 6:40inspirations behind this film and later your characters?
- 6:44You know, I'm going to, I'm not going to lie, it was hard.
- 6:48I could imagine. I'm like right off the bat.
- 6:51I'm like, I remember being a kid seeing pencil, you know, black
- 6:56and white etchings of, you know, Caribbean pirates on in
- 7:01Caribbean islands. But then I couldn't find it.
- 7:05And I was in LA at the time and I couldn't find anything other
- 7:09than what was online or you know, I was shown some AI
- 7:16generated very risque images which were not practical or
- 7:21organic or our. Minds are so like, dignified at
- 7:24this. Point Yeah.
- 7:25So. So I stepped off that lane for a
- 7:28second and started researching the Caribbean islands during
- 7:34that time, Victorian time. And I lucked out because I found
- 7:39a Caribbean archive of of black and whites and early etchings
- 7:47and paintings in the collection and I sourced the collection to
- 7:51our Art Gallery of Ontario AGO in Toronto.
- 7:55So guess who gets on a plane 'cause I knew the curator just
- 8:00by chance fluke. And I said thank you to the
- 8:02costume gods. And I got on a plane and I was
- 8:08allowed access and they put the white gloves on and somebody was
- 8:11watching me in the corner to make sure I didn't touch
- 8:14anything incorrectly. But I got access to this most
- 8:17incredible research I've ever discovered in my life.
- 8:21Like literally leather bound in in boxes.
- 8:27I have sent you a picture so you see it like I'm going through
- 8:31original very first photographs from this collection of people
- 8:38in Jamaica, St. Lucia, Martinique.
- 8:41And what I was able to see right off the bat is the difference
- 8:45between the English settled, settled islands and the French
- 8:51and how they their hair, you know, the head wraps and and the
- 8:56jewelry. Like there was very much a wave
- 8:59of let us present ourselves in in in a way that was beautiful
- 9:06and becoming artisan courtesan style with the French islands
- 9:13and then with, you know, Barbados, Jamaica, Cayman
- 9:19Islands. You saw that these were settlers
- 9:21who were working. These were former slaves that
- 9:25were a little rust, more rustic and threadbare.
- 9:28And, and I was able to pull from the sailors and the fee, the
- 9:35farmers, a visual that I presented to our director and
- 9:41our art director and the DOP. Like I was able to share all
- 9:44these references with the entire heads, you know, the crew head
- 9:49hair and makeup to say, look what I've discovered so that
- 9:52we'd all have access not only for props and set deck, but for
- 9:59hair and makeup and costumes. I mean, props was like, thank
- 10:05you, you know, so it was, it was a gold mine and it was really,
- 10:11really helpful. And again, it was a fluke, but
- 10:14I, I went there and just by chance, I went to the calf CAD
- 10:18library because a lot of us in the early days donated extra.
- 10:24I was moving out of Toronto. I gave them a lot of my
- 10:29reference material that I didn't feel I could bring with me to
- 10:33California. And I found my pirate book, of
- 10:37course, the only one the. And I have references of black
- 10:44and white etchings that I remembered from a child of just
- 10:47these stories of realistic imagery that I could see then
- 10:54where someone would have taken that and created something like
- 10:58Pirates of the Caribbean, you know?
- 11:00But what it gave me was a silhouette for my sailors from
- 11:05the, the town and the sailors on the boat, the base.
- 11:09And then we, of course, separated them and added to it.
- 11:13Yeah. You actually mentioned working
- 11:16with the other, how you know this naturally got to
- 11:19collaborate with the other department heads.
- 11:21I was wondering if you collaborate a little bit on
- 11:22that, how that must have been pretty crucial to the process of
- 11:25this film, seeing how. Cohesive.
- 11:27It looked. It was not only crucial, it was
- 11:31a gift. I have never in all the years
- 11:35I've been doing this, yes, art department's out the door, down
- 11:38the hall, or, you know, a couple floors up, a couple floors down.
- 11:42And of late, because I've been doing so much location prep and
- 11:47shoot 5 kilometer drive to, you know, where the art department
- 11:53is or the production office. And this time I got to be in the
- 11:59same room, same floor, same vicinity as my Paul Ivy, my
- 12:08production designer, his office. I could see out my my door and I
- 12:13could see when the director walked by on his way to his
- 12:16office, which was cue for me to get up and follow.
- 12:21You know, it's like, what's up? Costumes has come into this
- 12:24meeting too, but also too I could see them waving to say
- 12:28come over or we were right beside set deck and props so I
- 12:33could see him like Oh my God, I love these fabrics.
- 12:35Where did you get them? India?
- 12:36Give me the resource, you know, and we would share resources.
- 12:41We would share fines and I see it in the movie.
- 12:46I see how much being able to work together helped and it
- 12:53spoiled me because I could literally being with props.
- 12:59He show me something that he wants to add to a gun belt or
- 13:04something. And I'm like, hold on, let's get
- 13:06Frankie in this. And we walked to his office,
- 13:10which is just done all and knock on the door.
- 13:13Do you have a second? And we could have those
- 13:15spontaneous conversations that just made the process move like
- 13:20this. And then we were all on the same
- 13:22page and it was not one of those.
- 13:24You show up on set and say, what were you thinking?
- 13:30Why could you call me? You know, we didn't have that.
- 13:34We caught it early. Anytime there was a like, I
- 13:37suggest you do this, or once you have our fabric fabricator build
- 13:43this for you and we'll age it because it's going on her waist,
- 13:48you know? So it was a lot of teamwork.
- 13:52Yeah, it was beautiful teamwork. Yeah, I love it.
- 13:55Yeah, Well, let's dive into some of our characters here.
- 13:58So Karl Urban plays the very menacing Captain Connor.
- 14:01When we meet Captain Connor, you can just tell that, first of
- 14:04all, he's captain for a reason. His costume feels very lived in
- 14:08and honestly, it's likely because he's earned that title
- 14:11at this point. So tell me a little bit about
- 14:13his costume story and what you wanted the audience to
- 14:16understand when you meet Captain Connor.
- 14:18Because at this point, I mean, all these characters, their
- 14:21their life lines have been a little bit established at this
- 14:23point. You want to learn a lot about
- 14:25them when the story gets going. Yeah, that was a conversation.
- 14:31I was given an image of a captain that, you know, it's
- 14:37very similar to the Russell Crowe character in the film that
- 14:42he did. That was he wore that uniform
- 14:46throughout, which name has slipped me.
- 14:47Sorry, but master and commander, that's it.
- 14:54Yes. And I said, why do you like this
- 14:59costume? And it, it just, it immediately
- 15:04told the story of where he started, which was in the
- 15:08military, right? He was a captain of a ship for
- 15:12the Indian trade. And but this is many years past.
- 15:19So what do we carry from where he started to where we end up?
- 15:24And I thought it was really important to keep the coat, you
- 15:30know, the coat and his boots. Keep the coat and his boots and
- 15:37one that gate that movement and and having Carl as soon as he
- 15:42put it on and he started to move in it and especially the gate of
- 15:48the boot. It's it's very it's very strong.
- 15:51It's it's a it's a you know, he called it his his deck gate, his
- 15:55deck walk, you know, but the code was was a very instant
- 16:01recognizable. I am the captain and that's what
- 16:05we wanted. I mean, you couldn't miss Carl
- 16:08even if he was in a paper bag, but a sack, anything he's he he
- 16:13he just wears clothes so well and costume is so important to
- 16:17him, helping him find that beat. But it was just really important
- 16:22that the coat be something that was a carryover to help tell his
- 16:28story. And, and with all of the men
- 16:33that were in his quartermaster and the followers, the the
- 16:41premise was that they were going to be dark, they were going to
- 16:44be tactical. They were like, you know, a
- 16:46mission. They've come to handle their
- 16:52business. Let's be a strong force.
- 16:54But what I shared with our director and DP is that let's
- 17:00texturize them. Let's not have everybody in
- 17:03black because if you line them up and looked at them, they're
- 17:07dark. But it's, it's it's degrees of
- 17:09dark in terms of Blues and Grays and even stripes under there.
- 17:14When you look at the quartermaster beside Captain
- 17:18O'Connor, you see the difference in the colorways.
- 17:21You know, having some people with the similar leather vest to
- 17:24what Bloody Mary wore. So I just felt we could do dark
- 17:29without it being carte blanche all everybody in black tactical
- 17:33wear of the period. And as costume designer, you are
- 17:37kind of like your own captain, but you do have a crew out there
- 17:40with you. Can you tell me a little bit
- 17:42about your crew that was out there with you making this
- 17:44possible? Wow.
- 17:46You know, we always say it takes a village and boy did I have a
- 17:51village on this one. Literally our build, our
- 17:54production office was in a former manufacturing office
- 17:59with, with, you know, warehouse at the back.
- 18:02And I had different in the parking lot.
- 18:06It kept growing. First it started with ager dyers
- 18:09had their trailer, then I needed the letter makers, then the
- 18:12fabricators, then the, you know, extra cutters.
- 18:15So the parking lot grew into Antoinette's extension of her
- 18:22costume department. This was a first for me.
- 18:27I've never worked with leather makers or fabricators before.
- 18:31I mean, I've worked with leather makers who create incredible
- 18:36leather garments, like Izzy Camilleri is one of the best in
- 18:40the world and she's based in Toronto.
- 18:42I mean, she's, you know her, she just won an award too.
- 18:48And she did all the leather wear for the harder They Fall, but
- 18:52having wet molding done and etching and, you know, having
- 19:00these metal stencil that we did for the Siren was done on metal
- 19:05by the fabricator and then embossed.
- 19:08The leather was embossed with it.
- 19:09That's all new. I love learning new stuff, you
- 19:12know, And I was like a kid in a candy store when you couldn't
- 19:15find me in my office. I was always in the back with
- 19:18the leather makers or the fabricators.
- 19:19And then let me tell you about Billy's domain.
- 19:24I'm going to start posting videos of my my poor art
- 19:30finishers, ager dyers and what we put them through.
- 19:33Oh, don't worry, I'm. Going to be asking you all about
- 19:36aging and dying later. Oh my God, it was fantastic.
- 19:40And again, I love learning, you know, different techniques and
- 19:45what we learned in Italy and you and I talked about that book of
- 19:49cred. So it was just fantastic.
- 19:54It was an amazing experience and you know, I really loved being
- 19:58able to take the heads of departments down to the back to
- 20:03show them what we were doing and how it could relate to what
- 20:11Frankie was storyboarding, so he'd see it live and also
- 20:16understand it too. You know, there's only three of
- 20:20these. Look 12.
- 20:26You know, and right, so, yeah, but and also just seeing the
- 20:34workmanship that went into some of these costumes, it was just
- 20:39incredible. I had four incredible cutters.
- 20:42One of my cutters, Kit did Cruella.
- 20:45She did created that beautiful black and white, you know, so
- 20:50that was a level of artistry I had.
- 20:53And I'm forever in depth to these people.
- 20:57I'm just a conductor, you know, without their talent and their
- 21:02patience and their their their intuition.
- 21:07Because, you know, I always ask everyone to read the script and
- 21:12the questions. I'm able to get by.
- 21:14OK. We see that there is a fire
- 21:18being built in the last scene. Do you think we need to have,
- 21:21you know, burn spots? I'm like, no, no, no, no,
- 21:24they're not going to be close. I've already asked stunts that.
- 21:26And then of course, on the day we're literally on set burning
- 21:31holes in clothes. Literally it's like this one's
- 21:34ready. Run it to set because that
- 21:40always happens. Right, always.
- 21:41It's I mean, that's the name of the game.
- 21:43Let's talk about the character of the hour who we all want to
- 21:47talk about. Let's talk about Priyanka's
- 21:49character, Air Cell first. What a bad ass.
- 21:53She chooses to defend her family, as I hope everyone
- 21:56would. And throughout the course of
- 21:58this film, she undergoes A remarkable transformation into
- 22:02this fierce warrior, which, I mean, at the beginning of this
- 22:05film, you're not really sure where this is going to go.
- 22:08And a lot of that storytelling really takes place through the
- 22:11costume design, aside from, of course, Priyanka's incredible
- 22:14acting and stunt work and so on and so forth.
- 22:18But a lot of that storytelling took place through the costume.
- 22:21And I'm sure, as you were just starting to tell us, through the
- 22:23work of your incredible crew and then bossing in the leather
- 22:27work, they really put you through it in terms of that
- 22:30transformation in her costume where she had to go and
- 22:34eventually find old pieces of her Bloody Mary costume that she
- 22:38took to battle. So tell us about that
- 22:40transformation. It was incredible.
- 22:43Thank you. I, I was very lucky to get
- 22:47Priyanka early because she was going off to do another project,
- 22:51I think in Italy. So I met with her with her ABO
- 22:57producer and our and Frankie the director we met talked about the
- 23:03beats of the character and I showed her some samples and they
- 23:07immediately loved. I had this original dress.
- 23:12I literally took it off. The woman who who owned it, she
- 23:16was in a vintage shop and she was wearing like that's perfect
- 23:19can I borrow it? And I ended up buying it from
- 23:21her. But the silhouette I felt would
- 23:24be it was sort of a western ish influence, but very much in
- 23:32keeping with some of the references I'd seen from women
- 23:36of that time who were not affluent but who were not
- 23:41servants. And I showed it to her a few
- 23:46different styles and she immediately agreed with me that
- 23:48that was the perfect silhouette. So right away we knew what the
- 23:51shape of the dress was going to be and I then went to Australia,
- 23:58we made samples, we made a couple of different shapes for
- 24:02the Carrasse, wider shoulders, you know, lacing up the back,
- 24:08lacing down the side, you know, different details.
- 24:11And, and what we ended up with, which I'm so thankful we did, is
- 24:15just the bodice that was fitted, but with buckling at the side,
- 24:22you know, which I thought was very much more in keeping with
- 24:27something someone can put on themselves.
- 24:29And, and then it gave you a clean back and a clean front,
- 24:33you know. So we took samples made-up in
- 24:38the leather, made-up in the fabric of her first costume and
- 24:42her second. And we brought that to LA and I
- 24:46did a 48 hour in LA fitting with a pre uncle.
- 24:50And it was great because it gave her the opportunity in her home
- 24:55in a safe space to get on the floor, roll around, lift up the
- 25:00dress, tuck it in, figure out the beats.
- 25:03Because it was really important because she was going to be in
- 25:06each costume for so long that we workshop it workshop.
- 25:14Can you do a stunt in just those first?
- 25:17That was going to be a dress. The, the the nightgown.
- 25:22It was supposed to be a nightgown.
- 25:23And what we realized very quickly in that first meeting is
- 25:27she can't do all that action in a nightgown.
- 25:30So we shifted it to petticoat and pantaloons, which is as
- 25:36accurate as a nightgown but just much more practical.
- 25:40So that when she threw on the dress, she only, you know,
- 25:45scripted but also practical wise, she only had time to take
- 25:50off the bloody top and put the dress over the bloody panty
- 25:54loots, you know. So those are the kind of beats
- 25:57that having her early and meeting with her and going
- 26:03through what was the right boot? What did she feel comfortable
- 26:06running in, fighting in all those things.
- 26:09Because she doesn't change her boot when she changes from Ursel
- 26:13to Bloody Mary. So those are the things that,
- 26:17again, it was a gift to be able to do that with her prior
- 26:22because we still had work to do when she got there a week before
- 26:26camera. But now I'm in a queue, I'm
- 26:29behind hair and makeup tests, behind all the stunt rehearsals
- 26:33and you know, so having that early time with her was amazing.
- 26:39Talk about the detail on the Kuras, too.
- 26:41I mean, there's like a siren on it.
- 26:43There's so much detail I love going on.
- 26:45Your Instagram. Just, I mean just scrolling
- 26:47through these pictures, I mean every time I look at it I see
- 26:50something new. And my team is posting too,
- 26:53which is incredible, and I'm just reposting some of them.
- 26:55Beautiful. Well, that's maybe.
- 26:56What I'm looking at. But still, it's gorgeous.
- 27:00Well, that's again being, you know, the affinity of being so
- 27:03close, the proximity to being so close to Paul's office.
- 27:10I saw that Siren picture that was on her sail of her ship, and
- 27:17I said I'd love to incorporate that in her costume.
- 27:22Originally we were going to incorporate it also on the
- 27:25leather of vest for O'Connor, but it just didn't work.
- 27:31It wasn't necessary. Do you know what I mean?
- 27:33He was commanding enough. Just the coat did it.
- 27:37He didn't need an additional symbolism.
- 27:40But her siren that we see on her caress, which stood out from the
- 27:47other caresses that you saw all the men's were playing, hers is
- 27:52the only one that had embossing on it and that was from her
- 27:56sail. So it was the her.
- 27:58Her sail of her ship had the same siren.
- 28:01And what I loved was Priyanka wore that caress to the premiere
- 28:06of The Bluff, Which I just thought, as, you know, as a
- 28:09costume nerd who is a journalist who covers costume design, I
- 28:12thought it was the coolest thing ever for her to shout you out at
- 28:16the premiere. I mean, that's kind of what I
- 28:18live for, honestly. Oh my God, that's all I could do
- 28:21not to rush the red carpet and hug her.
- 28:27I knew it was happening. I knew from the very first time
- 28:30she put on this sample. Wow.
- 28:33Yes, she loved it. She loved the direction it was
- 28:36going in. She says, I think I'm going to
- 28:38wear this to the premiere. I didn't pay attention.
- 28:42I was like, yeah, yeah, yeah, sure.
- 28:44I mean, thank you so much. I'm honored.
- 28:46And I moved on. And then it wraps.
- 28:49She's like, I need these, you know, 'cause I'm wearing them
- 28:52for the premiere. And I'm like, oh, OK, well I'll
- 28:56give you the original sample, which was beautiful and clean
- 29:00and all pretty. No aging, no star, no nothing.
- 29:04And no, she wanted the one she wore, actually wore.
- 29:08I mean, they buffed it up a little bit, which was pretty,
- 29:11but it has all the marks from the fight from our agent on it.
- 29:17And she looked fantastic. It's probably 1 of at this time,
- 29:24one of the most iconic moments for me.
- 29:27I mean, I text her to say I was emotional because I couldn't
- 29:30believe, you know, that this was she sent me a message, I think
- 29:35the 10:00 or 11:00 that night and I sent back that I'm
- 29:41emotional about it because I was it was it was that's an honor.
- 29:46I think that's ultimate honor. When you're actor loves their
- 29:51costume so much, either they want to, you know, they want to
- 29:54keep it as a memento or because they want to wear it again.
- 29:59That's that's one kind of honor. But to premiere in it, I don't
- 30:03know if anybody else has done that.
- 30:05If you know, let me know because I was flabbergasted.
- 30:09I can't think of many. I mean, that one's coming to
- 30:11mind, but I think it just shows just how valuable costume
- 30:15designers are to this process as a whole.
- 30:17And like, you know, like we talked about all the time, these
- 30:20films that we all love so much or TV shows, what not will not
- 30:24be possible without costume designers like you who make
- 30:27these stories come to life. And this was just like a huge
- 30:30example. And Priyanka, you know, made
- 30:32that statement in front of everybody, even though if, you
- 30:35know, people might not have know that was happening.
- 30:37That's what that statement was to me.
- 30:39So I thought it was very important and.
- 30:41Thank you so much. Yeah, I, I was just told
- 30:45recently that that the costumes took took them immediately to
- 30:51where they needed to be in that movie.
- 30:53You knew who was who. You know, it was very, it was
- 30:58very clear from the, the, the, the town dwellers to the pirates
- 31:05and something that they asked me, which I get asked all the
- 31:09time. And it's again, something, you
- 31:12know, harking back to your question you asked me earlier
- 31:14about working with Frank Frankie and our conversations and
- 31:19collaboration. We were both of the same mind
- 31:23that this was an outing for the settlers.
- 31:28They were going to see a ship off.
- 31:30They had music. They were, you know, doing.
- 31:34It was a party. They were in their Sunday best.
- 31:36Their clothes were clean, as prepped as they could be.
- 31:43You know, they weren't in their their farmer's clothes or their
- 31:46sailor's clothes that they you see the wear and tear.
- 31:51This was their, their Sunday best and they they recognized
- 31:55that and, and wanted to check in with me if that was purposeful.
- 31:58And it was very purposeful. We wanted to show that these
- 32:02people were coming in to celebrate and then this
- 32:05happened, that they were invaded.
- 32:07Right. Well, as as we kind of start to
- 32:10wrap up though, I was, as we're talking about people and their
- 32:13Sunday best, you know, I love talking about the aging and
- 32:16dying. As we were starting to talk
- 32:17about, I mean, let's talk about the breakdown and the salt and
- 32:22the sand and a whole lot of blood too.
- 32:24Tell me about how this played a part in the overall process and
- 32:28your team and the continuity of it all and tearing these
- 32:31costumes apart and the IT is a lot too.
- 32:34I loved it. AGBO just posted a video about
- 32:39how involved Priyanka was and how you know, she she dove in
- 32:47and did so much of her own stunts and the action and I
- 32:52reposted it and tagged her set. Costumer, who I knew had panic
- 32:58attacks on a daily basis, was literally there biting her, her
- 33:03nails. Because I have a video and I'll
- 33:06pose. I have so much footage.
- 33:08Priyanka decided no, don't bother.
- 33:10I'll just roll in the ground in the dirt and be dropping and
- 33:14messing herself up in all the leaves in the dirt and then
- 33:16getting up and say I'm ready and I'm like, no, I've got to match
- 33:20all six of those, you know. So once that happened, we put an
- 33:28ager dire on set full time. And if something happened
- 33:33spontaneously, we would gather the multiples and they would be
- 33:38matching literally as she's in action.
- 33:40Because it was, it was really organic and it made sense that
- 33:46you do this to help with all the blood that you've added to your
- 33:51clothes yourself or to, you know, rolling in the ground and
- 33:56all that because it looked fantastic.
- 33:59But then the the others flip side to it is we then have to
- 34:02match it right And match it in real time because her stunt
- 34:06woman is standing there and we've just taken her dress off
- 34:09her to match it. So I had a really amazing team.
- 34:15Billy is from Melbourne and he we had different specialists
- 34:21coming from different parts of Australia, Melbourne, Sydney,
- 34:25New Zealand. We had some incredible people
- 34:28from New Zealand and put together this shop that it was
- 34:33just like a procession line, especially with the sailors,
- 34:37with O'Connor's sailors and how salty and gritty and dirty that
- 34:42they got. And, and you, I mean, if you
- 34:45look closely, you see it, it's, it reads subtle on camera, but a
- 34:49lot of work went into breaking down those dark tones,
- 34:53especially the blacks to make it look like it was seaworthy.
- 34:56You know, So I, I give them full, full credit for taking my
- 35:08direction, my imagery. And even in the interview, I
- 35:12said, let me break it down for you how we're going.
- 35:14This is going to go. And you tell me if you're up for
- 35:16this. And it because I was clear, I
- 35:19could see it. I knew how detailed it was going
- 35:23to get and it would need to be to sell what we were saying.
- 35:28And, and he said he was up for it.
- 35:30I mean that shot of the young man under the boat when you
- 35:36know, Elizabeth runs up and and sees her love with a slit
- 35:43throat. We had between special effects
- 35:46and our agers working as a team on the day to create that and
- 35:52that was fantastic. It looked fantastic, it was
- 35:55great. Gory but fantastic.
- 36:00With that, Antoinette, what are you most proud of with the
- 36:03bluff? Sometimes when you're moving so
- 36:06fast and you just organically making decisions and just, you
- 36:10know, on the cuff and then at the end you're like, Oh my God,
- 36:13is it all going to come together?
- 36:15Is it going to be cohesive and, and come together?
- 36:20And I have to say, I am so proud of how well it came together.
- 36:26It looks like there was teamwork, there was
- 36:32collaboration. It looks like, you know, we all
- 36:38rose to the occasion from for a man that we wanted to bring his
- 36:43vision to life, Frankie Flowers was so passionate, so gracious,
- 36:48so respectful of his entire crew.
- 36:52And we just wanted to make him proud.
- 36:56Yeah. Well, yeah, I think you all did
- 36:59because it was an incredible film.
- 37:00It felt very cohesive. Costume designer Antoinette
- 37:03Messam, thank you so much for joining me.
- 37:05I love this film. Congratulations and
- 37:07congratulations to all your crew.
- 37:09Like I said, it just felt so cohesive and transportive.
- 37:12It just took you back to that time.
- 37:14And I don't know, I just feel like I'm due for a rewatch
- 37:17already. So I.
- 37:18Hope everyone missing. Goes and watches the bluff.
- 37:20It's such a fun film. Thank you for joining me,
- 37:22Antoinette. It's so good to see you and talk
- 37:24to you. Yes, and I'm so glad you liked
- 37:27it. I really am.
- 37:29You know, sometimes it gets come with questions and I'm not sure,
- 37:32but right off the bat you're like, I love this film.
- 37:36I would never. Lie the Costume House with
- 37:38Spencer Williams is a production of The Art of Costume.
- 37:42This episode was hosted, produced, and edited by Spencer
- 37:44Williams. To discover more conversations
- 37:47with the designer shaping film, television, and theatre, visit
- 37:51theartofcostume.com or follow us on social media at The Art of
- 37:54Costume. And don't forget to connect with
- 37:56me on Instagram at Host Spencer. If you enjoyed this
- 37:59conversation, be sure to follow and subscribe wherever you
- 38:01listen to podcasts or watch on YouTube and stay tuned for more
- 38:05episodes celebrating the designers shaping today's most
- 38:08captivating films, television series, and stage plays.