Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / Wicked with Costume Designer, Paul Tazewell
Transcript
- 0:06Hello and welcome to the Art Costume Podcast.
- 0:08I'm Elizabeth Joy Glass. And I'm Spencer Williams,
- 0:11Elizabeth. Hey, look at us in the same
- 0:15room. I I'm.
- 0:17So I'm like buzzing right now. I'm so excited.
- 0:19I know we've been working on this set.
- 0:22I'm almost cursed. But we can't for the 1st 10
- 0:24minutes on YouTube. Oh.
- 0:28Hey, costume nerds, it's so good to see all of you.
- 0:31It is. Elizabeth is here in person.
- 0:35We're in a new set, a new season.
- 0:38Five people. We're at the start of Season 5
- 0:41and you know, we're starting off with a bang in a year that is
- 0:47going to be interesting for film and costume and so many other
- 0:51reasons, and I just cannot wait to get into it.
- 0:55Yeah, you might be thinking, oh, the emerald set, they must be
- 0:59doing wicked. Yeah, and you'd be half right.
- 1:02Yeah, we are doing wicked. But the emerald set is not
- 1:05because of wicked. No.
- 1:06And actually, at one point Elizabeth and I were talking
- 1:09about getting pink chairs. We were, then we realized we
- 1:14couldn't do that, at least not yet.
- 1:17But I mean, we have a green set because we were going to do
- 1:21black. And then we realized we own too
- 1:24much black clothing. Like this is one of the only
- 1:26like not black shirts I own currently.
- 1:29Yeah, Elizabeth, she actually said in that production mean
- 1:33like we'll actually lose Spencer and camera every single time.
- 1:37And honestly, we still might be, we're still working on the
- 1:40technology, but black probably would have been rough.
- 1:43Yeah, I still have liked to see what black look like, but that's
- 1:45neither here nor there. Let's get into the movie of the
- 1:49year. We're talking about Wicked this
- 1:51week, the film that you all have been emailing us, commenting,
- 1:55messaging us on Discord, YouTube comments.
- 1:58Y'all are excited, yeah and. We are too, but we didn't want
- 2:02to do it without some very integral pieces like the the
- 2:07Emerald City backdrop. Yes, yes.
- 2:10And the costume designer, Paul Tazewell.
- 2:12But before we get into that, let me give you all a little
- 2:16summary. Misunderstood because of her
- 2:19green skin, a young woman named Alphaba forges an unlikely but
- 2:24profound friendship with Glenda, a student with an unflinching
- 2:28desire for popularity. Following an encounter with the
- 2:32Wizard of Oz, the relationship soon reaches a crossroad as our
- 2:36lives begin to take very different paths.
- 2:39And that is Wicked, directed by John Chu.
- 2:43It is if you haven't seen Wicked and you can go see it in the
- 2:46theater. Go to the theater for this
- 2:49movie. I can't stress that enough.
- 2:52Go to the theater. I it's was probably my best
- 2:57theatre going experience of 2024.
- 3:00Yeah, it came out during the holidays.
- 3:02It was glicked, which Elizabeth has a lot of thoughts about
- 3:04Gladiator. But I waited for all the holiday
- 3:07crowds and families to go because I was very afraid of
- 3:10hearing theatre singers. Yeah.
- 3:12So I showed up by myself, and there I was at my AMC just
- 3:17crying, wearing my yeah sweats and hoodie, just all by myself.
- 3:21And now I've gone several times. I took my mom the other day.
- 3:25That's yeah. That's magic.
- 3:26That's when I saw it. I saw it with my mom.
- 3:28It was actually really funny. I.
- 3:30Bring your mom to work, baby. But let's get into the film of
- 3:34the hours. Yes, let's meet our costume
- 3:36designer, the incredible, the incomparable Paul Tazewell,
- 3:41which you will know his work from The Tempest, The Wiz Live,
- 3:46for which he received an Emmy Award, The Immortal Life of
- 3:52Henrietta Lacks, Jesus Christ Superstar Live in concert,
- 3:58Harriet Hamilton, for which he won a Tony Award, and West Side
- 4:05Story for which he got an Oscar nomination.
- 4:09And at the time of recording this People Wicked has a BAFTA
- 4:13nomination and ACGA nomination, Critics Choice Award and like 16
- 4:21other organizations are like yes these costumes slap.
- 4:24Yeah, I I was playing to get a list of all of Pauls nominations
- 4:27so far and I counted I think 16 of just like, you know, random
- 4:31film films and whatnot. Yeah, and hey, if the Art of
- 4:33Costume also has a film award. Top of the list.
- 4:37We'll make it 17. Yeah, honestly, I'm sure by the
- 4:41time in this episode comes out, Paul's gonna be another Oscar
- 4:44nominee. I'm.
- 4:45Just I'm sure it's. I'm sure.
- 4:47So obvious. And also Paul Tazell, is he
- 4:50gonna be the first EGOT winner costume?
- 4:53I. OK, I was literally thinking
- 4:55about that. I was like, wait, hold on.
- 4:56He has an Emmy. He has a Tony.
- 4:58He's gonna get an Oscar. He's gonna get an Oscar at some
- 5:01point. How can we get Paul Tazell to
- 5:04win a Grammy? Paul, you need to put out your
- 5:07your debut album. Learned in our upcoming
- 5:12interview with him He he was a theater kid.
- 5:14He can probably sing not to he you can probably sing.
- 5:17Do a rendition of like the fine Gravity or the Wizard and I just
- 5:20put that out, you know, make a couple mil.
- 5:23Yeah, EGOT winner. We're going to figure this out
- 5:25for you, Paul. Anyways, let's get to what
- 5:29you're all here for. Of course, costume designer Paul
- 5:32Tazewell has done so much press over the past couple of months,
- 5:36which we really appreciate. Yes, and we just had to get on
- 5:39his list as well. We did.
- 5:41So we were very honored to be joined by Paul just yesterday.
- 5:45So we're going to play you that interview in just a second.
- 5:47We talk about a lot. We go back into all the way back
- 5:51to high school, I believe, with Paul talking about his
- 5:54trajectory from Paul working on the Wiz in high school all the
- 5:58way up to, you know, Wicked and the future and talking about
- 6:02some of our favorite characters. It's it was a really fun
- 6:06interview and I hope you all enjoy and after that interview,
- 6:09come back and we're going to catch up a little bit because a
- 6:11lot of has happened since you've.
- 6:14Since you saw us last. Or not heard us last.
- 6:17Since you've heard us last, a lot has happened.
- 6:19Yeah, we're going to get into all that and also play our
- 6:22favorite game. We'll constantly rule them all
- 6:24and give a Stitch rating, which I mean, we could probably get
- 6:27that out of the way now, but we'll do it after the break.
- 6:29We'll keep a format. All right, talk to y'all soon.
- 6:37Hi, I'm Dan who does all the magic behind the scenes.
- 6:40I wanted to say thank you. And if you want to support the
- 6:43show even farther, go to tpublic.com/user slash the Art
- 6:49of Costume where you can buy a couple variations of our logo on
- 6:53T-shirts, mugs and stickers. Also, be sure to leave a like
- 6:58comment and subscribe. And if you're an audio listener,
- 7:01leave us a five star review on Apple podcast.
- 7:04Now back to the show. Hey, Paula, how's it going?
- 7:12Hi, Spencer and Elizabeth, how are you?
- 7:15I'm. So good.
- 7:16We're so excited finally talk to you.
- 7:19But before we get to Wicked, we want to talk about your journey
- 7:24to Wicked. One of my favorite stories I've
- 7:27heard you tell is actually going back to some of your first
- 7:31productions. I believe you grew up in Ohio on
- 7:35your first production was maybe The Wiz, which is kind of great
- 7:39foreshadowing. Yes, you've done your research.
- 7:42I, I grew up in Akron, OH. And, you know, as I was growing
- 7:47up, I went to a school that was a magnet school for high school.
- 7:52And when I was a junior in high school, which means that I was
- 7:58about 16 years old, I was given the task of designing the
- 8:03costumes for The Wiz. And that was really where I fell
- 8:08in love with theater, where I fell in love with the, you know,
- 8:10the, the whole idea of, of entertainment.
- 8:13But I, my, my intention was to be a performer.
- 8:16And the, my instructor at the performing arts, it within the
- 8:20performing arts program saw that I, I had a proficiency in
- 8:26designing costumes. And so he offered me the the job
- 8:30of being costume designer as well as casting me as the Wiz.
- 8:34So I had the the honor and task of of actually designing my own
- 8:41costume. I didn't make that costume.
- 8:43My mother actually made it. It was a white suit and then I
- 8:46had a a wide brim hat and AI think I might have made the Cape
- 8:50that was lined in green satin. You did your top.
- 8:54Yeah, right. Exactly.
- 8:55But I did design the rest of the, the production and with the
- 8:58help of my family, we got everybody clothed in, you know,
- 9:03in, in all sorts of a costume. So that, I mean, that was the,
- 9:06the very beginning. And that was, I think that that
- 9:08was where I saw that I could actually do it.
- 9:12I still was headed to, you know, I, I wanted to go to New York
- 9:16and, and start to audition and take dance classes.
- 9:20And, you know, I was, I was on that journey and then I
- 9:24transferred to North Carolina School of the Arts in Winston
- 9:27Salem. And anymore it's called
- 9:29University of North Carolina School of the Arts.
- 9:31Yeah. Then, you know, after
- 9:33graduating, I started designing professionally first at the
- 9:37Arena Stage. That was probably the, the my
- 9:43because I ended up being the resident costume designer there.
- 9:46So that, that was my home base for about 8 years.
- 9:51And then I, at the same time as I was designing for productions
- 9:55there, I was also designing for other regional theaters around
- 9:59the country. Once I hit, I guess it was four
- 10:04years into that, that tenure of, of, of time, I, I was asked by
- 10:11George Wolf to come to New York and design.
- 10:14First there was a production called Blade to the Heat that
- 10:17was a straight play. And then at the same time he
- 10:21asked me to design, Bring it to Noise, bring it to Funk, which
- 10:26was a new Broadway show. It was my first Broadway show.
- 10:31It started Savion Glover. Then I was nominated for Tony
- 10:36for that. And you know, I just continued
- 10:38working. You have designed some fantastic
- 10:42productions. You brought up bring in the
- 10:45noise, bring in the funk, along with The Color Purple in the
- 10:49heights of course. Hamilton.
- 10:51Such an amazing show. I'm curious, how did all of this
- 10:56previous work prepare you for Wicked, which is certainly a
- 11:02huge task to be taking on. If that's a great, a great
- 11:06question and it's one that I, you know, I acknowledged, you
- 11:10know, I definitely acknowledge it to myself because wicked
- 11:14incorporate so many different elements and, and I had the, you
- 11:19know, the, the, you know, the delight of, you know, pulling
- 11:24all that together and being able, being able to orchestrate
- 11:26it with some amazing talents. But, you know, I've said this
- 11:31about my work on Hamilton. I couldn't have delivered the
- 11:36design that I did without the experience, you know, the
- 11:40collective experience that that I have had previous to that, you
- 11:44know, previous to that experience, you know, what I was
- 11:47talking about, about Arena Stage, there was a, you know,
- 11:50there was a full time staff of costume makers at the Arena
- 11:54Stage at that time and they were all building costumes at the top
- 12:01of their, you know, the top of their game.
- 12:03When I came into that, having all the knowledge that I had
- 12:07from school and, you know, my, my own interest in building
- 12:10costumes, you know, it gave me the opportunity to really study
- 12:16and understand as I was, you know, actively designing how to
- 12:20best work and collaborate with, with other makers.
- 12:25And so those eight years, I was perfecting my craft out, you
- 12:30know, kind of on the sidelines, not in full focus of everyone
- 12:33else. You know, my my experience would
- 12:35have been much different if I had been in New York, but it
- 12:37gave me the opportunity to design many, many different
- 12:40kinds of productions because much of my career, and, you
- 12:45know, we might get into this later in that conversation, but
- 12:48much of my career has been designing stories about people
- 12:51of color and, and some were, you know, like did lean into the
- 12:5721st century, but most of them were 20th century.
- 12:59Many were about, you know, characters that were, you know,
- 13:04were more urban than St. and you know, I and and so you know that
- 13:08I was asked to do a, you know, a an array of different
- 13:11characters, but those periods were pretty limited.
- 13:18What you know the the economic level was limited to what those
- 13:23stories could hold at you know that just to get back to what
- 13:27your question was like. All of those added up into
- 13:32knowing all the techniques and being in full control of how to
- 13:38best tell the story of wicked because I understand the vast
- 13:44array of different ways of telling the story as well the
- 13:48experience of you know how costumes hold the story, support
- 13:54the story because they support the character it's.
- 13:58It's been 1 incredible culmination which has resulted
- 14:02in Wicked, honestly. And before we get into some of
- 14:05the specific costumes, one thing that stood out to Elizabeth and
- 14:09I, which means a lot to, I think a lot of people, is you've
- 14:14obviously done a lot of press with Wicked.
- 14:16But I've noticed how you've used your spotlight to kind of
- 14:20highlight the people that helped make Wicked possible along with
- 14:24yourself. I mean everyone from milliners,
- 14:27costumers, assistant costume designers, illustrators.
- 14:31Can you tell us why that's been so important to you to make sure
- 14:34that all of your crew members are feeling seen in this
- 14:38process? Because it's about being seen.
- 14:41It's, you know, it's so very necessary for people to
- 14:44understand that there is, you know, there's a huge, you know,
- 14:48it's a cliche, but there's a, you know, there's a huge village
- 14:50of people that are behind all those people that get to be seen
- 14:55in front of the, you know, in front of the camera or on stage.
- 14:59And I think that, you know, because Wicked was is so out,
- 15:05you know, so far outside of the box and in, in terms of how we
- 15:09could manifest, you know, all all of these magical costumes
- 15:15and, you know, with different kinds of techniques.
- 15:18I wouldn't have been able to to manifest the design, to actually
- 15:21create the design without the expertise of those people that
- 15:25were all pulled together. And with that, it then became
- 15:28very important. It's always been very important
- 15:31to shine a light on on their work because that, you know, the
- 15:34only way that I can do my job and bring that to the stage or
- 15:40that to, to film is to have, you know, the support of amazing
- 15:47artisans. That that team, those people
- 15:49that are behind me are imperative to that process
- 15:54because they're the ones that are actually creating it.
- 15:56And if it's not done well, then it, you know, it, it doesn't
- 16:01look good. You know, it's a, you know, a
- 16:03badly made costume is a badly made costume and it will never
- 16:06resonate in the way that I want for it to, which is specific to,
- 16:11you know, making these characters as real as possible
- 16:15so that we can engage with them. You know, the audience can
- 16:18engage with them in a way that lets them, you know, really fall
- 16:23into the story and go on the ride with us.
- 16:25That's so true, and I love that you're highlighting their work.
- 16:29So let's get into your and your team's work with Wicked.
- 16:34What was your initial reaction to getting this job and to be
- 16:38able to get to work with your two amazing lead actresses?
- 16:44When I was approached by John Chu, you know, I was beside
- 16:48myself, I mean, and, and I had met John before and I was just
- 16:54hoping and praying for the, the opportunity, not for wicked
- 16:59necessary, but just an opportunity to work with him.
- 17:01Because, you know, when, when I was approached, I, you know, I,
- 17:06I'm always delighted that somebody thinks and believes in
- 17:10me, that I, you know, that what I've done, you know, kind of
- 17:14inspires them to offer me the opportunity.
- 17:20And then you know what, once I get over that, then it's like,
- 17:25you know, now I really have to, I have to, to deliver.
- 17:29So there's, you know, there's delight and fear at the same
- 17:32time. And then, you know, in, in my
- 17:36conversations with John that that we're then after that, that
- 17:39first meeting, it was just, it became a delight because he is
- 17:44so wonderful to work with. You know, he's very warm, he's
- 17:47very engaging. He had a very clear idea of how
- 17:50he wanted to tell the story. And he also kept the
- 17:54possibilities open, the creative possibilities open to have his
- 17:59team become a part of his process.
- 18:04And, you know, so I went away and I started to collect all
- 18:09kinds of images. I mean, I actually, I think that
- 18:11my first meeting with him was a presentation, which was a
- 18:14collection of image, visual images that spoke to me as to
- 18:18how we might represent the design of Wicked.
- 18:22And I was familiar with the, the Broadway show.
- 18:25I, I'd listened to the Broadway show a lot and was moved by
- 18:30that. I'm friends with the original
- 18:35designer of the Broadway show as well.
- 18:38So it was important, you know, and because of that, it was
- 18:41important for me to create my own world and have my own take
- 18:44on it. And so when I heard that John
- 18:46wanted to reinterpret what the, the, you know, what this world
- 18:51is, I was so relieved because I, it wasn't going to be a
- 18:55recreation of anybody else's work.
- 18:58I think that it, you know, it's like with the Wiz that I've done
- 19:02a number of times since that production in, in high school,
- 19:06you know, it's. The dining room table.
- 19:10You know, you, you, they're these characters are very well
- 19:13known to us and you know, it, it, it then is our task to tell
- 19:22the story that feels familiar, but then also where it can be
- 19:26experienced in a new way. And that was what we were about,
- 19:29you know, and, and you know who, who is, you know, the character
- 19:33of, of Glinda and who is the character of the Wicked Witch of
- 19:37the West as it's, it relates to Alphaba.
- 19:40And what, you know, like going back to the 1939 film and then
- 19:46the, the book before that and also the Gregory McGuire novel,
- 19:50like collecting all of those pieces that already existed as
- 19:54well as, you know, the, the, the, the, the wicked musical on,
- 19:59on Broadway, but you know, like really studying what those icons
- 20:05are. And what speaks to audiences, it
- 20:10is grounded in a collective idea of a storybook, you know, in a
- 20:18way. And some of that is informed by
- 20:20the 1939 film. When you think about the
- 20:23Munchkins and you know that there's a there, there's a kind
- 20:25of classic full quality to that group.
- 20:29Of. Of people.
- 20:31And one thing we've talked about on this podcast quite a bit
- 20:34actually, is your use of color feels very specific and
- 20:38intentional. So obviously with Wicked,
- 20:40there's the green and the pink, but we also noticed that there's
- 20:44a lot of other through lines they're carrying through.
- 20:46You've mentioned nature. I'm seeing a lot of spirals.
- 20:50I've heard some math terms like Fibonacci sequence, which I
- 20:54haven't heard since high school. What were some of those through
- 20:58lines that you try to carry through the entire film?
- 21:03Again, it was about digging deep into what is governing, what
- 21:07rules govern this visual world, you know, so thinking about
- 21:11spirals, what I mean. And, and it was inspired by the
- 21:15imagery that I was finding for, you know, first and then
- 21:19acknowledging that I'm very much drawn to the, the design of a
- 21:25spiral as it applies to this world, you know, And so I went
- 21:29searching for other kinds of spirals.
- 21:32And then what came up, I mean, this is the, the benefit of, of,
- 21:36of being able to research, you know, over the Internet, you
- 21:39know, and, and all of the imagery that, that you can
- 21:42access. But it, you know, you know, the,
- 21:44the, the Fibonacci sequence and spiral that comes out of that,
- 21:50what it's, you know, how it's connected to nature.
- 21:52And then also how it is the formula to get at what I was
- 21:59drawn to as imagery that felt whimsical.
- 22:04So, you know, it's really it was trying to create, you know,
- 22:08create in some ways, the science that that that helps this world
- 22:13to operate. You know, with with Nathan and
- 22:18what he was doing with the the scenery.
- 22:20He was also very drawn to, you know, spirals with it.
- 22:25You know, you can see it in, you know, the the way that you know,
- 22:29it's, it's all the detailing, you know, and and much of that,
- 22:31you know, starts to look, you know, very art Nouveau.
- 22:35But then even in the forest where the the trunks are
- 22:39spiraling, you know, into, you know, a curve.
- 22:42So, you know, that then is very identifiable for our world of
- 22:48Oz. You know, once we were in
- 22:50London, we were in this, you know, like like a war room.
- 22:52We were, you know, it was, you know, big conference room and
- 22:57then all of our work was up on the walls surrounding us and
- 23:01Nathan had his huge sets that he was working out spatially.
- 23:07And you know, you would see how you know 1 you know, the
- 23:10definition of a land was starting to come to life and and
- 23:15really hop off the wall, you know, as you would go from from
- 23:19look to look, you know, and so you know, it was it it it was
- 23:23really exciting, you know, the whole time.
- 23:25Yeah, it's every time you watch the film you kind of see
- 23:27something different too, I feel like.
- 23:30One spectacular piece, I think, is the bubble dress worn by
- 23:37Glinda. It's beyond breathtaking and I
- 23:40imagine this took a lot of careful thought.
- 23:43How did you and your team create something that it felt both
- 23:47original and very reminiscent of the original Wizard of Oz film?
- 23:54It, it was a delight actually, there was there, there was a, a,
- 23:57that first slide that you had up the person who created this, who
- 24:04made this costume. His name is Ian Fraser Wallace
- 24:08and he's holding the Barbie cake so that he's an amazing tailor
- 24:15And he, he ended up starting with the, the Fibonacci spiral
- 24:21sequence to get the shape of the skirt that, you know, the, the,
- 24:27those cones that create the skirt, you know, so it was, you
- 24:32know, that there was a direct relationship to what we were,
- 24:34you know, even to how we're managing our pattern making.
- 24:39And I thought that was really beautiful.
- 24:42The idea just, you know, kind of stepping back a bit because the,
- 24:50the, the Glenda from the 1939 film was in pink.
- 24:55I really wanted to make use of that as an icon, because when
- 25:00you say Glenda, you know, for me, when you say Glenda, that's
- 25:02the image that comes up for me. And I find that a very, you
- 25:06know, even of the, the, the, you know, the 1930s, I find that a
- 25:10very magical dress, how it was created and how it sparkles and,
- 25:15and Billy Burke in it, you know, is, is, is, is.
- 25:19And, you know, so I wanted to create, you know, an icon that
- 25:25could move close to that and be reminiscent of that.
- 25:29And then also use the color of pink throughout the rest of, you
- 25:34know, because it so much of what we were doing was to give a back
- 25:38story to these two central characters so that we understand
- 25:44what their relationship was. So we needed to see them, you
- 25:49know, and we the two of them, what their style was when they
- 25:52enter into shiz and how because of their connection, their style
- 25:56shifts and changes. And just as they mature their
- 26:01their clothing styles, shifts and changes.
- 26:03So, you know, to we, we're presented with Glenda at her
- 26:08pinnacle, you know, with the pink dress.
- 26:11And then we reel back and, you know, we, we time shift back to,
- 26:16you know, back to the, you know, they, they heard their, you
- 26:20know, early 20s And, you know, I, I, I am so glad that we were
- 26:27then able to use the color of pink, because I think that that
- 26:29was something that had been, you know, restricted.
- 26:33But to be able to really make huge, a huge use of that color
- 26:39to define who Glenda is seemed really appropriate.
- 26:43You know, it was also very, you know, it, it for me was the
- 26:47image of the bubble and how the pink was, you know, kind of a
- 26:52reflective of that. It's like, you know, bath
- 26:55bubbles or, you know, just that iridescent idea as well.
- 26:59So, you know, I, I think that it all worked out quite
- 27:04wonderfully. I mean, just how sculptural it
- 27:06is. And also the fact that it feels
- 27:07kind of light, light as a feather, you know, because
- 27:10everything is so buoyant. It speaks to that character.
- 27:15Well, if Elizabeth's favorite costume is the bubble dress,
- 27:18mine is definitely the Define Gravity look.
- 27:20First, a quick shout out to the hat.
- 27:22I think the hat is spectacular and I love looking at pictures
- 27:26of it. But my question about the Define
- 27:28Gravity look is it's also a technical achievement because
- 27:32Cynthia's flying around in this costume.
- 27:34So I imagine that that was something that you and your team
- 27:37had to take into consideration as well.
- 27:39So I'm curious if you could kind of break down that scene a
- 27:42little. Oh, sure.
- 27:44I mean it the dress, you know, the it's it's her invitation to
- 27:51Emerald City. It's the first time that she
- 27:53meets the wizard. So she's dressing up before that
- 27:58she has gone through a a series of looks that you know, where
- 28:02she's opening up, she's softening and you know, you
- 28:05realize that there's a connection with with Fiero as
- 28:08well. You know, you see that that love
- 28:10interest and you know, so you know, she where she's gone from
- 28:16being very restrictive and her silhouette is very defined.
- 28:22She then moves into a look that is much more agile.
- 28:28It had it it she her boots become taller and she's got
- 28:33trousers on and a kilt and a blouse and and and vest.
- 28:39But then, you know, in getting invited to Emerald City, she
- 28:44chooses to wear a dress, you know, she dresses herself up to
- 28:48meet the wizard. And with that dress, it moves
- 28:52her in a silhouette that is reflective of the Wicked Witch
- 28:56of the West from the 1939 film in a similar way to, you know,
- 29:03with, with, with Glenda and the pink bubble dress.
- 29:08You know that it is, you know, it's reflective of that icon
- 29:11that you know where we're going to end up and knowing that
- 29:16Alphaba is going to really find her power at the very end of the
- 29:22film. You know, I was setting it all
- 29:26up visually so that we, we, you know, it it.
- 29:30So we get that moment when she's looking at, you know, the the
- 29:33one this this one that you got right in front of you, which is
- 29:35probably my most favorite moment of the film.
- 29:38And she, you know, she turns around and and whips the Cape
- 29:41around and, and we, you know, it's it's, it's just really
- 29:45brilliant. You know, it's just that she,
- 29:47you know, has fully arrived and all those pieces kind of
- 29:50accidentally coming together to be the silhouette both
- 29:55reflective of the Wicked Witch of the West, but most definitely
- 29:59Alphaba. And, you know, I think that that
- 30:02was really moving for me. But, you know, as you can see, I
- 30:06mean, there, there's much more that's going on.
- 30:08It's not just, you know, it's not a recreation of the the 1939
- 30:12Wicked Witch of the West dress. It is informed by the other
- 30:15silhouettes that we've seen on on Alphaba throughout the film
- 30:19with the, you know, the shape of the shoulders, her connection to
- 30:23texture, you know, which is, you know, I, I call that, you know,
- 30:27the, the underside of a mushroom texture that we have on the
- 30:31dress, you know, which is microplated chiffon that's laid
- 30:34on to him. It's, you know, very laborious,
- 30:36but beautifully done by another amazing tailor.
- 30:42And you know, all of those things together along with a
- 30:46hat, the silhouette of the hat and you know it, it, it makes
- 30:50her a very original alphaba slash wicked Witch of the West.
- 30:55If you know, as a, as an icon and even on the, on, you know,
- 31:02on the, on the Cape, you know, thinking about what fabrics can
- 31:06I use that will give her gravitas that will, that will
- 31:09ground her and that she can whip around in the way that she does,
- 31:15But that will still be visually interesting and, and speak to
- 31:20the rest of the textures that I've, I've been using on her
- 31:24clothing, you know, throughout the film.
- 31:27And so, you know, another amazing fabric painter artist,
- 31:32you know, created a pattern, you know, the two of us created a
- 31:35pattern that would get burned away on this silk velvet, you
- 31:40know, so knowing that silk velvet, one will drape
- 31:43beautifully, it'll have a weight and a gravitas, but then we can
- 31:49emboss this, you know, kind of wave pattern that that looks
- 31:53like bark. Yeah.
- 31:55No, it, it, it, it all then comes together really.
- 31:59Sure. It's it.
- 32:00It gives me chills every time I see it.
- 32:02It's it's the best. Just like this one final scene
- 32:06we want to talk about. Yes, in just a film of
- 32:10incredible spectacles, I think 1 Short Day really stands out,
- 32:18especially we get to such a fun cameo with Idina Menzel and
- 32:24Kristin Chenoweth. What was it like bringing that
- 32:27scene together and then adding this fun cameo of the two of
- 32:33them into this already spectacular scene?
- 32:36It's a theater nerd. You must have been excited it.
- 32:39Was yeah, absolutely it was it was exciting that the prospect
- 32:43was exciting. It was terrifying in getting it
- 32:46done One, because we were pressed to the very end as to
- 32:51whether we were they were going to do it or not, you know, so
- 32:54we, we weren't exactly sure that it was going to be Adina and,
- 32:58and Kristen and that scene was coming up on our calendar and we
- 33:02were running out of time. The set itself hadn't been
- 33:05completely designed either, you know, so it was all kind of
- 33:08happening in the, in, you know, all together in the moment.
- 33:13Not, you know, we, we, we did have, I wonder how many weeks
- 33:17that we, you know, because we, we, we only had a couple of
- 33:19weeks to actually build the costume and they were not in
- 33:24London. So I actually had to travel to
- 33:27New York to, to Fetidina in New York.
- 33:32You know, what the idea for Nathan was this kind of pop up
- 33:38book, you know, that the, the idea of the, you know, the, the,
- 33:42the, the theatricality of, of it would be that it was like a pop
- 33:45up book. And so I really, you know, kind
- 33:49of latched on to that and, you know, created these costumes
- 33:53that would move in a way like, like moving pages.
- 33:58And then, you know, the, you know, each of those different
- 34:02leaves or, or, or layers is individually printed, you know,
- 34:07so you know, they, the, the printing is, is ombre.
- 34:10It's it's on a, a nylon organza that will, you know, it, it
- 34:15would hold the color and, and actually print in the way that
- 34:19we needed for it to be printed because it was, it was a, a heat
- 34:25process, you know, that was very specific to that fabric.
- 34:29And then creating the shapes with the Draper in the amount of
- 34:33time doing the fittings, you know, having all those edges,
- 34:38you know, edge with monofilament and then doing all the beating
- 34:41that needed to happen on top of it.
- 34:43And it was, you know, it, it was quite an extensive and it was
- 34:48all hands on deck and creating them at the same time.
- 34:52You know, we're creating, you know, the, the, the, the, the,
- 34:55the soldiers on stilts and, you know, and, and the, the
- 34:58flatheads and you know, it's, it, it, it just didn't stop, you
- 35:01know? It needs its own podcast.
- 35:05But it was, you know, it was just so exciting, you know, and
- 35:11I, you know, everybody was in their element.
- 35:13Well, before we let you go, we had two silly questions for you.
- 35:17First, do you consider yourself an alphabet or a Galinda?
- 35:22Oh gosh, I know that I'm I'm an alphabet that is my true self.
- 35:30I, I toy with being Galinda, but I'm also kind of a people
- 35:39pleaser. So that makes me kind of
- 35:42Galinda. But really, in my heart, in my
- 35:46in, in quiet moments, I'm. Alphaba And then finally, what
- 35:51is your song from Wicked that you're humming or singing in the
- 35:54shower? Ohh God all of them.
- 35:56But I the the wizard and I was one of my favorites.
- 35:59That's mine, yeah. I'm always.
- 36:02I lost my voice a little bit last night before when we were
- 36:04playing. Literally.
- 36:05Yeah. Yeah.
- 36:07Well, costume designer Paul Tazewell, this has been such a
- 36:11joy. We still have like 1000
- 36:13questions, but luckily for us, we have a whole other film.
- 36:16So maybe we'll we'll do it again in a year or so.
- 36:19Yeah, that's, and I'm so excited to share all, all of those
- 36:22because it, you know, they, we have some great looks.
- 36:25You know, it's just, there's so much for this world and, you
- 36:30know, I'm, I'm so excited. Great.
- 36:32Well, we're so excited. I mean, I can't even.
- 36:35So thank you so much, Paul. This has been such a joy and we
- 36:38can't wait to talk soon. All right, we'll see you soon.
- 36:41Thank you. Thank you.
- 36:47That was fun. That was so fun.
- 36:49I love, I love getting to know how people got into the career,
- 36:55yeah, that they're in like the journey to that place.
- 36:59And I love how in depth he went. But it yeah, it's always very
- 37:03inspiring and I love, I love hearing Paul talk.
- 37:05Like I said, I've I've seen him on probably 456 panels now
- 37:09throughout my career of working with the art of costume.
- 37:12Like, talk to you and you're like, I got to go to a panel
- 37:14with Paul Taswell. I'm like, oh, OK.
- 37:16Even if it's about the same movie or show production, I'm
- 37:20like, I'll be there. Paul is the nicest.
- 37:23I also love that we got to find out what wicked song he comes in
- 37:26the shower I. Know, I know.
- 37:28These are the hard hitting questions that you are
- 37:30continuing to tune in and subscribe for.
- 37:34Yeah, yeah, the wizard and I, we.
- 37:35Get we get, we get the answers. The wizard and I is a good one,
- 37:41yes. Yeah.
- 37:42Although like this, the Wicked just has such good music, good
- 37:46lyrics. Well, some things we want to
- 37:49mention before we play our favorite games, 1st Order
- 37:53business, new set, new US. All of our episodes now are
- 37:56going to be in full video, which we've been talking about for
- 37:59years. And Elizabeth moved out here and
- 38:02we were like. It's the time.
- 38:03No time like the present. I need to give a major shout out
- 38:07to my father Dave, because he helped me build this thing.
- 38:12I we literally sat down with like a piece of paper and we
- 38:15sketched it out, measured, built all the piping together, cut the
- 38:19piping. Yeah.
- 38:20So he really came through. He happened to be in town.
- 38:23We've been going through a lot of like family stuff that I want
- 38:25to get into this year. So he's been around a lot, which
- 38:27has been awesome for me and my my family.
- 38:30And he was like, let's do this thing.
- 38:32So yeah, props to your dad and also to our incredible producer
- 38:37Daniel, who's been helping us put this thing over FaceTime,
- 38:41which is not easy, but he really cares as doing his best to make
- 38:46this look as amazing as possible.
- 38:47And we love him and thank you, Daniel, for doing that.
- 38:50It's been great. Mind us as we work on the
- 38:52lighting and whatnot, you know, this episode 1 we're figuring
- 38:55out and if you guys subscribe like we've been asking you to,
- 38:59well, you know, maybe things will get different.
- 39:01We'll be able to upgrade and get nicer cameras, maybe get a
- 39:03couple so you could get close-ups on Elizabeth.
- 39:05When we talked about Paul Mezcan stop update #2 Elizabeth has
- 39:09moved to LA. Are we liking it?
- 39:11Aside from the things we're getting ready to get into in a
- 39:14little bit. I'm loving it.
- 39:16It's better. It's warmer than Pennsylvania
- 39:19though. I'm mad because the one thing I
- 39:21like about the cold is snow because the snow makes all the
- 39:25dead. We have a different kind of snow
- 39:27in LA. Trees look pretty.
- 39:30The snow makes all the dead stuff look pretty.
- 39:33And apparently they've been getting the last couple years I
- 39:35lived back home, very little snow.
- 39:38What are they getting 7 inches of today?
- 39:40Yeah, snow. They've.
- 39:41Been. Getting lots of snow and I'm a
- 39:44little upset about it, but I'm very happy that I can walk out
- 39:47of my home without like, mittens and a hat on.
- 39:50Yeah, that's good. And it's been fun having
- 39:53Elizabeth and I are literally neighbors now.
- 39:55Yeah, we have to get into the first fun thing we've done
- 39:59together, aside from putting together this hat.
- 40:02We went to this magical place called Costco.
- 40:09It was so fun. Oh my gosh.
- 40:10So I'm a member now. We went there.
- 40:12We didn't know what I mean. We kind of knew what to expect,
- 40:16but we had so much fun. We were it.
- 40:19Was overwhelming. We're going to include some
- 40:20pictures, but like, we were looking at like a ice plunge.
- 40:23We were looking at a inflatable like little spa thing.
- 40:28It gave you a snippet into what your 30s will be and I was like,
- 40:31yes, Spencer. Yeah, I I found these Adidas
- 40:35like joggers that made me really stoked.
- 40:38You were excited. Elizabeth was so hyped on the
- 40:41frittatas that she found. So excited for the frittatas.
- 40:44Look at this picture. It's so open.
- 40:47OK, now wait. I didn't realize I took the
- 40:58picture of you with the frittata in front of a huge bulk section
- 41:03of me. Relax, you've noticed.
- 41:11That you have great photography skills, Spencer.
- 41:17Look look at it. I did not notice that.
- 41:23I should not have noticed it unless you said something.
- 41:26Great. I I should be a director of
- 41:27photography. Absolutely.
- 41:29So yeah, it's been having fun. It's been fun having you here.
- 41:33I'm glad we get to do this together.
- 41:34I think it's going to rejuvenate our love for the podcast.
- 41:37Not that it was diminished, but like it sounds like a fun.
- 41:41Doing it bicoastally. Yeah, definitely.
- 41:45It's it's nice to have you here. And one thing I wanted to bring
- 41:48up before we get into our games is we have to talk about the
- 41:52California wildfires, which has impacted so many people.
- 41:58Elizabeth and I were in the evacuation warning zone and we
- 42:02lost power, whatnot. We were sheltering together,
- 42:05which was a great second or third week for you here in LA,
- 42:10which was crazy. But I just wanted to say, like
- 42:13on behalf of the three of us, our hearts really go out to
- 42:15everyone who's lost their homes. Like you heard me saying in
- 42:18those FRA 2 episode, you know, we have friends that have lost
- 42:22their homes. We know so many costumers,
- 42:25costume designers, people working in the industry or just
- 42:28families that we know and love that have lost so much.
- 42:30So please go to our show notes. We have a link tree.
- 42:35I believe it's called Art of Costume Aid and you could go
- 42:38there for resources for those that have been impacted or for
- 42:42if you're looking for ways to donate and help others volunteer
- 42:46opportunities. We also have a list of some
- 42:50people that we know that lost homes.
- 42:52If you're looking for a place to donate.
- 42:53I mean, there's a million different things that you could
- 42:55do and it's not always monetarily.
- 42:58So please check that out. It would make a mean a big deal
- 43:02to us if you could help take care of our community out here
- 43:05cuz Ellie's really going through it right now.
- 43:07Going through it and it's not over, unfortunately, it's
- 43:11they're still working on getting those fires out and people are
- 43:14still being affected. So if you could check those out
- 43:18and like, even if you can't help out now, if you can help out in
- 43:21a month, they're still gonna be like so much to do and so many
- 43:25people who need help in the months to come.
- 43:28Yeah, it's like a three-year process to rebuild your home.
- 43:32Yeah, at least. So our hearts are with you, LA.
- 43:36Please do what you can if you're not in the area.
- 43:38And you know, we love you and we want to bring this podcast back
- 43:43now because we feel like now is the time for celebrating the the
- 43:49little things in life that we have, like costume design.
- 43:51And with that, I think we need to do some serious business for
- 43:56Wicked, starting with a stitch rating.
- 43:57Yes, this is, I want to say probably one of my easiest
- 44:01stitch ratings. Same.
- 44:02It's a 5. It's a five.
- 44:04Yeah, it's honestly I did. I was very excited for Wicked,
- 44:10was concerned about how it would translate.
- 44:15Now granite. I've never seen the Broadway
- 44:18production. I just grew up with the
- 44:21soundtrack and like seeing bits and snippets here and there and
- 44:25like learning about it just through through our culture.
- 44:29It's a it's a big touchstone. So I I was concerned.
- 44:34I was like, this is like a long musical.
- 44:36I know there's, like, a lot in it.
- 44:39And I was very relieved when I realized it was the first of two
- 44:42movies. And, you know, sometimes, like,
- 44:45musical translations to film don't always hit.
- 44:49Yeah. And this did.
- 44:51Yeah, it absolutely did. It was, I dare say, like an
- 44:55actual perfect movie. I, I was also a little hesitant.
- 44:59I just the press was like really like really taking over the
- 45:04world and I was like, oh, this like might be too over hyped,
- 45:07but it was actually maybe under hyped.
- 45:09It just, it was that good. I have seen the Broadway
- 45:12production like I've mentioned to you before, but probably
- 45:16never on mic. But I kind of fell asleep during
- 45:19the Broadway production, so I don't know what happens in the
- 45:23second-half. So I am also thankful to John
- 45:25Chu for us having two movies because the suspense is real in
- 45:30my mind because I don't know what happens next.
- 45:32I knew what happened up to Defying Gravity.
- 45:34After that. It's really a fuzzy spot for me,
- 45:38but I thought it was perfect. Aside from the costumes, I just
- 45:41think visually it was incredible.
- 45:43Cynthia Revo the incredible, such a powerhouse and I knew she
- 45:47would kill Azelfaba. Ariana Grande really blew me
- 45:50away. I was admittedly like a little
- 45:53like this could go wrong, I don't know, but she killed it.
- 45:58She killed it. And I'm like, I'm not a big
- 46:00Ariana Grande fan, so I wasn't honestly, I was not really
- 46:04familiar with her as an actress all that much.
- 46:06I was. Familiar with her game?
- 46:08Yeah. Because I was kind of by the
- 46:11time she was like, what was she a Nickelodeon?
- 46:15I like by the time she was on Nickelodeon, I kind of like aged
- 46:18out of that. And like, I knew she wasn't
- 46:20amazing singer. So I was like, she'll at least,
- 46:23you know, sound amazing. But like the way she's just such
- 46:30an incredible actress and singer and she both of them really got
- 46:35their characters down and it was just so exciting.
- 46:40And like shout out to whoever did the special effects because
- 46:45the way they mixed like practical sets and stuff looked
- 46:53so good. And like he said, Jonathan, he
- 46:58wanted it to be like a pop up book.
- 47:02They really hit that balance. And Paul Taswell's work, I mean
- 47:06that that's if there was higher than a stitch rating.
- 47:09I it. Would be higher than a.
- 47:13Yeah, it would be a 10. It would be.
- 47:15His work is a 10 out of 10 stitches.
- 47:17It's it's, it's perfect with that.
- 47:20Are you ready to play our favorite game?
- 47:22I don't know all. Right.
- 47:24Well, Daniel, I'll hit the music.
- 47:28The one costume to rule them all.
- 47:35All right, so Are you ready, Elizabeth?
- 47:36Because I'm ready. I'll go first if you're still
- 47:38cooking on it. I'm still cooking.
- 47:40So, Spencer, what is your one costume?
- 47:43Rule them all. OK, well, I have to give first
- 47:45an honorable mention because I really have been toying with
- 47:49between these two costumes and Elizabeth knows that I so
- 47:53desperately wanted to talk to Paul about it, but like we just
- 47:56had. Way too many questions.
- 47:58And not enough time, Ariana. Well, golden does costume for
- 48:03the popular number the pink. So cute.
- 48:06Like night robe. I want that.
- 48:08Oh gosh, that was such a good one.
- 48:10And like the big bubbly sleeves, it's just like such great
- 48:14foreshadowing. But just looking at the textures
- 48:16and the construction of it, it's crazy good.
- 48:19But my one costume ruled them all has to be Alphaba's Defying
- 48:22Gravity look. Just cause like it, like I think
- 48:27everyone kind of knew what it could look like.
- 48:29And I just think that Paul really was able to turn it into
- 48:33something quite extraordinary. Because first of all, it is hard
- 48:36to work in all black just because you really have to give
- 48:39a texture to it. And I've seen this costume in
- 48:41person now at an event, and that under the mushroom type texture
- 48:46that Paul was talking about really comes through on a dress.
- 48:49I love the hat. The hat to me is everything
- 48:52because it could have just been like a pointy cone hat.
- 48:55It was not Paul's team. Kill it with that.
- 48:58And then that moment where Glinda grabs the like, black
- 49:02fabric and dusted it off. So then when Alphaba spins it
- 49:07around for defying gravity, it just was everything to me.
- 49:10I was like this. Is.
- 49:11So good. So is it the Flashies costume?
- 49:14No, but I think it to me it's like the most powerful costume.
- 49:18One thing I liked about Alphaba's costumes in particular
- 49:23is it let Cynthia Rebo like her talent shine, like her abilities
- 49:30shine. It's so supported what she was
- 49:33already doing that, you know, 'cause for that character, it
- 49:38wasn't about the clothes, it was about who she was as a person.
- 49:42So it just let her do her thing, which was amazing.
- 49:46And then on the other hand, with Glinda, I have to say I think my
- 49:52one costume to rule them all is the bubble dress.
- 49:55I should have saw that coming. It's just I want to one of the
- 50:00things I was talking about this with Spencer yesterday.
- 50:03One of the things I really liked about what Paul did for the
- 50:06movie was like the way he combined like inspiration from
- 50:13this, the stage musical from the original like what, 1930 nine
- 50:19film and then. Something like that.
- 50:23Something like that So. Long ago.
- 50:26The way like he took inspiration from those and then just made
- 50:31something like so unique and brand new, I think really shines
- 50:35through with the bubble dress and like the like the cones and
- 50:40the skirt. And it's just like, it's just
- 50:43such a visual impact right at the start of the movie.
- 50:48And Like Like tells you everything you need to know
- 50:52about Glinda. Yeah, yeah, it's very strong and
- 50:56just yeah, it's overwhelming. And just seeing the construction
- 50:59with two, I loved talking with Paul and looking at the
- 51:02underpinnings of it and how complex it was.
- 51:04I mean, it's yeah, that's a solid one.
- 51:07Costume rule them all. Another I think my honorable
- 51:10mention for the film would be though The Wizard Jeff Goldblum.
- 51:15'S. Like, just like a dapper
- 51:18salesman, Sue. I also really like that he
- 51:21showed up and I was like, yes, you are the wizard, Mr.
- 51:25Goldblum. Goldblum was born to play that
- 51:27role. He was.
- 51:28He was. Really, the cost, the casting in
- 51:30this film was perfect, even it. Was so.
- 51:32Perfect. Yeah, every single one of them.
- 51:35Michelle Yeoh, Ariana, Cynthia, Jeff Goldblum.
- 51:38It. Oh my gosh, the guy who plays
- 51:41Fiero, who we love from Bridgerton.
- 51:42Oh, Jonathan. Bailey, there you go.
- 51:45I I almost called him the bicount.
- 51:49The Bicount. Yeah, well, this is fun.
- 51:52I was so glad we finally got to do Wicked.
- 51:54And it was fun doing in the studio too, honestly.
- 51:57And we have so much more coming up, too.
- 51:59So much. But before we tell you our next
- 52:01episode, don't forget, as we mentioned, resources for LA
- 52:04wildfires are in our show notes. We're on YouTube.
- 52:09We've been on YouTube, but now we're like really depending on
- 52:12you all to check our YouTube. Don't forget to subscribe.
- 52:14I know it's down below somewhere right here.
- 52:18I've always want to say subscribe to our channel.
- 52:20So we can say that now. Instagram at the Art of Costume
- 52:23pod, when we were recording our interview with Paul, TikTok was
- 52:28banned. And now that we are recording
- 52:30the next day, it's no longer banned.
- 52:32So for the time being, follow us on TikTok.
- 52:36At the heart of costume, we also.
- 52:41If you can get to it, if you can get to it here in the USI don't
- 52:45know around the world though. Yeah, yeah, go.
- 52:47To our TikTok, because it still exists, it's still in.
- 52:50The rest of the world, I was on TikTok when I was getting ready
- 52:52today, so I don't know. We do have a Discord, so come
- 52:56and chat with us and which is pretty fun.
- 52:58We're making some cute little emojis over there.
- 53:02And if you want to tell us what episodes as you want to see this
- 53:04year, we do have a survey that's it's not really a survey.
- 53:07It's more like a suggestion box that's open for like the next
- 53:10couple weeks. It's also in our show notes.
- 53:12Leave us a five star review, so on and so forth.
- 53:15We really appreciate that. Elizabeth, what are we watching
- 53:20next? I'm so excited.
- 53:23It is February, the month of love, and we're not doing fairy
- 53:29tale romance, exactly. Oh, we did do that one time,
- 53:32huh? We did do that one time.
- 53:35We're doing more of a English romance month.
- 53:39My favorite? Starting with the Academy
- 53:43Award-winning film Oh, That would Be.
- 53:48I've never seen it actually. It's good.
- 53:50You're gonna, you're gonna like it.
- 53:52You're gonna like it. The costume, I do know that
- 53:54Sandy Powell did the costumes and won so and we're moving into
- 53:59our favorite season of the year, award season.
- 54:01Yes, we are. What a good way to start an
- 54:04award season with Shakespeare in love.
- 54:06This has been fun. Costume nerds, thank you so much
- 54:08for joining us for our Season 5 premiere.
- 54:10And subscribe, listen to us. Leave a five star review.
- 54:16And yeah, can't wait. We'll see you.
- 54:18We'll see you soon. We have lots of great stuff
- 54:19coming up. Bye.
- 54:21Cheers.