Latest / Chef's PSA Podcast / David Breeden: Survival, Resilience & The Unlikely Road to The French Laundry (Ep. 166)
Transcript
- 0:00Hello chef's This is chef's PSA. I'm your host, Andre Natera.
- 0:02Today I'm joined by legendary chef David Breeden.
- 0:05From the Appalachia to the French Laundry.
- 0:07That includes nearly two decades between Per SE and 13 years as
- 0:10the French Laundry's chef de cuisine.
- 0:12Chef David now leads guest driven hospitality.
- 0:15In this episode, he reflects on mentorship, legacy, loss,
- 0:19ingredient respect, and what comes next.
- 0:21This is a very powerful one. Stay tuned.
- 0:35Chef, it's good to see it's been too long.
- 0:40First of all, thanks for being on.
- 0:41I know we've been trying to get this done for quite some time
- 0:45and I have so many things that I want to talk to you about.
- 0:48And it's like, where do we begin?
- 0:50But I think 1st and most importantly, the big question
- 0:56I'd start out with is like, how does someone go from Appalachia
- 1:00to being the executive chef at arguably one of the greatest
- 1:03restaurants in the world? Yeah, it's a good one.
- 1:07You know, being a native Appalachian, that's a very.
- 1:11That sounds very important to me.
- 1:13Yeah, that is that. It's in my, this my, in my DNA,
- 1:16my heart and my soul. I never thought I would leave,
- 1:21but I fell in love with cuisine at some point.
- 1:25In a very roundabout way, I was very fortunate when I was young
- 1:42to be to be raised in an agricultural environment.
- 1:46I had, you know, huge garden in my in my backyard where I was
- 1:51raised with my grandmother. My community is agricultural
- 1:55based. At one point I lived on a dairy
- 1:57farm. We would put away the vegetables
- 2:02after they were harvested. We would can.
- 2:04We would make marmalades. We would make jams, jellies,
- 2:09Pickles, preserves. A couple notable ones, My
- 2:12grandmother's, my grandmother, Betty Breeden.
- 2:14Betty Jo Breeden's Chow. Chow is incredible.
- 2:16I still serve it to this day. On on all of my menus that I do
- 2:21and her blue ribbon Pickles are served worldwide through that
- 2:25influence. So I I grew up around food.
- 2:27We celebrated food. So I was in love with food.
- 2:30I was in love with communal dining.
- 2:33Sunday suppers were a very important thing.
- 2:36Sundays after church, my whole family would come together at my
- 2:40grandmother's house and we would prepare a meal or my grandmother
- 2:45would prepare a meal much, much like potluck.
- 2:48Maybe my aunt would bring her famous cherry cherry cheesecake
- 2:53pie type type like thing, you know, or a crisp or crumble or
- 2:57whatever you want to call it. And my uncle would bring this
- 3:01southern style pickled shrimp, which was incredible.
- 3:03And we would have it every week and we would sit around the
- 3:07table and celebrate the meal and we would celebrate the dishes
- 3:12and we would celebrate the communion with each other.
- 3:15And to me, that's how I entered my love for cooking.
- 3:20I had no idea where it would go or how it would go, but I knew I
- 3:25love to eat. Of course, I was a little fat
- 3:27kid in the corner, like just munching away.
- 3:29And, and I really enjoyed the civility of everyone, everyone
- 3:34at the table because away from the table, everyone would, you
- 3:37know, every little different. So that's kind of how I got into
- 3:41it in a way, my pursuit for cuisine.
- 3:46So at what point do you do you say I want to be a chef like
- 3:49this is this is was it early on like when you were at the table
- 3:52thinking about it like I like this or was it later on?
- 3:55Did you just, I guess a better question would be, is this
- 3:58something that you chose or did it choose?
- 4:01You OK? That's, that's that's a great
- 4:03perspective because, yeah, I didn't.
- 4:05I had a familiarity with cuisine, with Mother Nature,
- 4:08with the earth, with, with cycles of life, with cycles of
- 4:12growing agriculturally. At some point I was just very
- 4:18familiar. And that was my biggest asset
- 4:23going into chasing my profession was understanding the ebbs and
- 4:27flows of Mother Nature, of life of, of harvesting, processing
- 4:34chickens eggs, slaughtering the pigs in a smokehouse, the the
- 4:40spring house, you know, the wild watercress that grows up through
- 4:43the spring. We would cook like crease, we
- 4:45call them Creasy greens. What was Creasy greens?
- 4:47Creasy greens are like basically the wild watercress and a few
- 4:51other greens that you would harvest.
- 4:53They're very fresh, very beautiful, very vibrant.
- 4:57We would wilt them with a bit of bacon, a bit of onion, bit of
- 5:00vinegar, much like we would call hot spinach salad.
- 5:03You know that. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 5:04Hot bacon salad that that, that was Creasy greens that started.
- 5:07There was no spinach. We didn't really have that
- 5:09because we would harvest the wild, the wild lettuces.
- 5:12So. So there was a familiarity of
- 5:14sorts. It is certainly regionality that
- 5:18really resonated with me. That's what I knew.
- 5:21So as I started to go towards man, that's actually, it's not
- 5:30cooking that started, it was skateboarding, right?
- 5:32That started everything. So I was an avid skateboarder
- 5:37and I was blessed to be pretty good, pretty aggressive, pretty
- 5:41wild. And I was like chasing my
- 5:45skateboarding dream. I was going to be a professional
- 5:48skateboarder. That was like #1 I am going to
- 5:51do this. And I would actually remember
- 5:52watching on Nickelodeon in the very early 80s, Skate Master
- 5:57Tate in this television show. And there was a 30 minute show
- 6:00that come on once a week. And we would all like gather
- 6:02around someone's house who happened to have television, but
- 6:06not even everyone had television and watch Nickelodeon, Skate
- 6:09Master Tate. And they would be these dudes
- 6:12from California. You know, there would be music.
- 6:14We surf in the bowls and skate in the bowls and like all this
- 6:17stuff. And it's like, OK, I'm going to
- 6:19be a skateboarder. I'm going to be a really good
- 6:21skateboarder. And I picked up a skateboard.
- 6:25I meant to bring it actually my one light.
- 6:27That's right. We talked my original.
- 6:29Yeah, I I bought a a re recast model of it, the three
- 6:34production of the first one. But I worked in restaurants
- 6:43washing dishes, chasing my skateboarding dream.
- 6:46So that's kind of how I started going down that route and
- 6:49through through that. At some point I realized I'm not
- 6:55going to be a professional skateboarder.
- 6:57And I had travelled the country skateboarding, yeah, semi
- 7:01professionally at that point and really aggressively, but
- 7:04pursuing that. And I always feel back on the
- 7:08kitchen because when I was in the kitchen, I hadn't pay
- 7:13schedule, food, uniform, mentor, whatever it was.
- 7:19But at this point I was only washing dishes and.
- 7:23How old are you at this time? We're kind of we're kind of
- 7:27spreading this through a few different generations.
- 7:31In the beginning, my culinary portion under my culinary
- 7:35awakening was pre 12 years old. OK.
- 7:41About the time I had 11-12 years old, my whole world went to
- 7:44shit. It went totally radical.
- 7:47And at this time I was also skateboarding, but it was very
- 7:50infantile in that in that process.
- 7:55But so as my home life began to get really rocky, really toxic,
- 8:03really scary, I leaned into my skateboarding because I found a
- 8:09brotherhood through skateboarding.
- 8:10And, and anyone who is a skateboarder will know you can
- 8:13go anywhere at any time. And if you've got a skateboard
- 8:17and you've got a a modicum of talent, you can hang with the
- 8:22crew, you're cool. You can just settle right in.
- 8:25Much like cooking. Yeah.
- 8:27So then this a similar thing. I think girls like
- 8:29skateboarders. Right.
- 8:30And that was always. Yeah, Yeah.
- 8:31Of course. Yeah.
- 8:32Yeah. Yeah.
- 8:33You know, I had my Mohawk and my, you know, it's funny.
- 8:36We used to dress like cholos. Yeah.
- 8:37So I was in East Tennessee. Yeah.
- 8:39And one of one of my favorite bands was Suicidal Tendencies.
- 8:42Yeah, and we the heavy metal band with cholo dress, right?
- 8:45Yeah, yeah. And we would.
- 8:46Dress like cholos and we had like our plaids and we had our,
- 8:49you know, top buttons and we had, you know, like the whole, I
- 8:53mean we look like cholos, but we had never, we had no clue.
- 8:55It. Was like a caricature, like we
- 8:57had no clue what it was. Yeah.
- 8:59You know, have you seen the half flipped up?
- 9:03Yeah, yeah. Have you seen in Japan?
- 9:05I think Japan and Thailand like I have.
- 9:06These these cholos that are, yeah.
- 9:08Like but they they just are in it for the low rider culture.
- 9:11Yeah, not the gang. They got all the they got all
- 9:13the tattoos. He looks just like meters.
- 9:15Yeah, yeah, yeah. Sorry.
- 9:17No, but that's cool. Yeah.
- 9:18They all have Barber shops, right?
- 9:20Yeah, yeah, they all have Barber shops.
- 9:21Yeah, yeah, yeah. Virgin Mary's on the.
- 9:24On the car, I totally yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 9:28My guys, man, they send me these memes all the time stuff.
- 9:31But I respect those guys. They're cool.
- 9:32I mean, they have they have they know who they they know who they
- 9:37are, who, who they who they want to be and who they respect.
- 9:40Yeah, yeah. But so, but but so that was kind
- 9:43of that thing. So it's a really wild experience
- 9:46because I'm equal parts hug Finn, Tom Sawyer.
- 9:52I could go out, I can hunt, I can fish, I can grow, I can
- 9:56garden. I work tobacco.
- 9:57I started working tobacco in the fields of seven years old.
- 10:00So I'm out there. My father would Take Me Out, a
- 10:02very complex man, my father, he would Take Me Out and I know
- 10:07today why. And at 7 years old, my job was
- 10:12to follow the men that would go through the field.
- 10:14And this is not some good job. This is people that work for
- 10:17cash because they're probably have liens on their checks.
- 10:22They have, you know, there's a lot of, they're all have
- 10:24substance abuse problems of the amongst all anything you can
- 10:28imagine. Those things are there and my
- 10:32job was to follow them in through the field and one of
- 10:35them was to pick up the leaves that fall off the tobacco
- 10:38plants. This was when I was little and
- 10:41gather them. Those are dollars that's worth
- 10:43money. The area that I'm from, the
- 10:46region I'm from, is called the Big Burly Tobacco Region.
- 10:48It's a very, it's a very, at that time in the 80s was a very
- 10:54important region for growing tobacco.
- 10:56And so I would clear the fields of the leaves.
- 11:00And then my job was to pick up the rocks so that when it comes
- 11:03through until later, the rocks aren't there.
- 11:07I would pile the rocks on the side.
- 11:09And my pay for the day was typically my lunch.
- 11:13Yeah. And what what, what my father
- 11:15was teaching me is that you have to work for your dinner.
- 11:19There's no free ride, no free lunch.
- 11:21You know what I mean? No free dinner, right?
- 11:22Yeah. I mean, it's a thing.
- 11:24It's a thing. So that was that was a really
- 11:26good lesson. But as I grew older, I grew
- 11:29stronger. I would have different jobs and
- 11:32I literally did every single job in the tobacco field, cotton
- 11:36spudding, hanging, grading, topping the plants, seeding
- 11:42everything. And we, we did it all for cash.
- 11:44So very similar when I was a kid, my dad, when I was six
- 11:47years old, my dad had a tremendous work ethic.
- 11:50And you know, I'm a six year old kid and he said he bought a
- 11:54Popsicle cart, you know those Mexican paleta carts, right?
- 11:57So he says I was a paleta, right.
- 12:00So he, he would take me and my brother and he would drop us off
- 12:03at the flea market, 6 years old, my brother's a little bit older.
- 12:07And he would tell us, I'm not going to pay you.
- 12:09Yeah, you're going to work all day selling popsicles.
- 12:12We could eat all the popsicles you want.
- 12:14That's your pay, right? And we're kids.
- 12:16So it's like, yeah, I'll, I'll eat all like I, I get whatever I
- 12:19want. And you know, he was teaching us
- 12:21work ethic at six years old, right?
- 12:23Because it was like, no, no son of mine is gonna.
- 12:26You know. Yeah, be lazy.
- 12:28You need to get work ethic later.
- 12:29Like Dad, I'm only sick. So that work ethic.
- 12:32Yeah, Yeah, you get it now. Yeah.
- 12:34So I got my Bologna sandwich. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 12:36I'd rather have a nipple at them, but that's fine.
- 12:40Yeah, equal parts. It was like a.
- 12:43If you, if you look at it like it was like bread, equal parts,
- 12:46one slice of bread, one slice of tomato, one slice of Bologna.
- 12:50But it was mad thick. Yeah.
- 12:52Mayo. Mad thick.
- 12:54Yeah, another slice of bread. That's it.
- 12:55And they just, they call it a jam sandwich.
- 12:56And you just jam that shit together.
- 13:01Hey, that was lunch, man. And if I was lucky, I'd get a
- 13:03little bag of BBQ chips, probably Lay's or something like
- 13:06that. I don't remember exactly.
- 13:07Something regional possibly. Yeah, Yeah, that was a good,
- 13:13that was a good, that was a good start to everything.
- 13:15Because then also you're still in the soil.
- 13:17Yeah, you're still in the soil. You're still learning the growth
- 13:21process of a plant. And to me, that has paid huge
- 13:27dividends in my career of being one with the plant.
- 13:32And we can get into that later, but being a conduit for Mother
- 13:36Nature, for God, for the for the product that comes out of the
- 13:39earth, it's like it's very important.
- 13:44At what point do you go from I'm washing dishes to I want to do
- 13:49this professionally? Well, I think we have to zoom
- 13:52out a little bit. So my first job washing dishes I
- 13:59worked for, I worked at a place called J&E Italian Village.
- 14:02I was probably about 13 and I wasn't legally able to work.
- 14:06However, Joe and Irvina, shit I can't remember the last name.
- 14:17Joe was a hardcore dude from Czechoslovakia and he they
- 14:23cooked it all Italian cuisine and he was immigrated to the
- 14:28United States and joined the Marine Corps to get a green
- 14:32card. So he was tough as nails.
- 14:34This guy who knows what he did in his home country.
- 14:36He was a really tough guy. And his brother Joe also knows
- 14:41Joe Joe was the the, the patriarch of the business and he
- 14:45had a brother who was the, the peace Iola, you know, but I, I
- 14:51can't remember his name. It was it was something typical,
- 14:54but he made a deal with me that he could pay me $3.00 an hour
- 15:00because they weren't going to take taxes out of my check.
- 15:04That's a good deal. He's like, I can pay.
- 15:07You 5, but you have to pay taxes.
- 15:09But now you don't have to pay taxes, so I'm going to pay you
- 15:113. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 15:13It worked the totally wrong way, but of course I was like, you
- 15:16know, I would skateboard in the bag.
- 15:18There was a basketball hoop. I would, they would put me on
- 15:21break as much as possible at any time possible.
- 15:24You know, I would clean, I would wash dishes, I would, I would do
- 15:27all these things and I would go back, smoke pot, run my
- 15:29skateboard, shoot some hoops. I'd hang out for three hours not
- 15:32getting paid. And they're like, they call me
- 15:34David Capicola and they're like, hey, Capicola, like get in back,
- 15:39get back in here like meathead basically, right.
- 15:41And they're like, get back in here.
- 15:42It's time to go. So I literally worked, I, I
- 15:45could work at a nine hour day and I make 3 bucks an hour,
- 15:49right? Maybe, maybe through all of
- 15:52that, I would earn 9 bucks. Yeah.
- 15:55And then what did I want to do? Yeah.
- 15:57Feed me. So I would just hang out.
- 16:00Yeah. I didn't make anything.
- 16:02I would end up paying them to be there.
- 16:04And it was a thing. So I didn't do that very long,
- 16:06but it was a fun experience. I learned a lot.
- 16:08But one thing that was really impactful were these dudes that
- 16:13were on the line and how they interacted with each other.
- 16:18And so I was the dishwasher and they needed the pants.
- 16:21So they would always treat me well.
- 16:23They would always look after me. They would always feed me.
- 16:27They would slip me little tasty goodies and whatnot because they
- 16:31needed the pans. And when they were in the
- 16:33service, that was just powerful. And I don't think they were,
- 16:38they none of them were professional stuff.
- 16:39I'm certain they were all military and they were just
- 16:41doing this for, for money and, and, or to try to build this
- 16:45business. They were all cousins and they
- 16:47would skip these saute pans down the floor and I would be on the
- 16:54receiving end. And to this day, I can barely
- 16:57eat marinara sauce because I would be in washing these pans
- 17:00and up to water with this red water, garlic, tomato grease up
- 17:06to my elbows. Just coat the, you know, just
- 17:09coating and oh man, I'll never forget that aroma and I would
- 17:13smell like it for days. You couldn't, you couldn't
- 17:15chisel it away if you had to. There's no other Drakar Noir
- 17:18that would. Fix that back then.
- 17:22Yeah, yeah, yeah. Holy fit the aroma.
- 17:25That's funny you bring up the, the low pay.
- 17:28I remember when I was in culinary school, I was working
- 17:30at this place as a Baker and I remember I got my first paycheck
- 17:34and I don't know, I was making it was probably like 4 or $5.00
- 17:37an hour or something like that. And I remember my paycheck I had
- 17:40never had a paycheck before because I worked for my daddy
- 17:43paid me under the table and I was cash since like my first
- 17:47paycheck I was like $120.00 or something like that.
- 17:49I was like this is like so bad ass.
- 17:52And I remember I had to get a bank account and I felt so cool
- 17:55walking up to the the cute teller at the.
- 17:57Bank and like, what do you think of that?
- 18:01That's a weird real $120.00 right there.
- 18:06I've got a good story about that too.
- 18:07Yeah, actually, yeah. So let's see where, where,
- 18:11where. Are we at in the grand scheme of
- 18:12things right now? So I have my introduction to my
- 18:16thought, my love of food, my love of agriculture, my love of
- 18:19my first little position at some point in my life, my, my home
- 18:26life. This is a very important part of
- 18:28my story. It's my home life.
- 18:30So my father, my father, it's, it's honestly it's, it's trauma
- 18:38bonding, man. It's like my father.
- 18:41So let me let me zoom out of a bit.
- 18:44When I was a baby, my mother was killed in a car accident at
- 18:50around four months old. My old man, she was 18 years
- 18:54old. My old man was 19 years old.
- 18:56So I grew up with a dude that was my parent who was not
- 19:01emotionally capable of being a parent and there were a few
- 19:04reasons why. He had rattled his brains a few
- 19:07times. Really really set him back.
- 19:11He didn't have the ability to be able to process emotions
- 19:15correctly. And a few years later, he was
- 19:24hit by a drunk driver on a motor.
- 19:26He was on a motorcycle, he was hit by a drunk driver, and he
- 19:28lost his leg. When I was about 6, this
- 19:33crumbled that man, it really messed him up in many, many,
- 19:37many ways, Obviously physically, but mentally.
- 19:43And so here's a guy who's 26 years old.
- 19:45He's got a 5 year old kid, maybe I was 6 at the time, I'm not
- 19:47sure. Something right around there and
- 19:50he's trying to pull out of the doldrums, trying to get his life
- 19:55on track and he just keeps getting smashed, smashed with
- 19:58life. And he didn't have the ability
- 20:01at that point to pull out of that one.
- 20:03That was the the final straw for him, in my opinion, rattled his
- 20:08brains. He, the first one really messed
- 20:11him up emotionally, probably because of the loss of my
- 20:13mother. He has a child, he has to raise
- 20:16a child. He's trying to get himself on
- 20:18track. Boom.
- 20:21It was devastating for him and he gets hooked on opioids.
- 20:25But this is before what we know today is opioids.
- 20:27It was morphine at the time, and then you can get morphine.
- 20:30So then you do heroin, right? So and then heroin turns into
- 20:35cocaine turns into crack, turns into all these other things.
- 20:37So he had a very, very big problem with pain management,
- 20:42started as pain and emotional management.
- 20:44And at that .6 7-8, this dude is totally off the rails, out of
- 20:54his mind in the middle of the night.
- 20:57We moved way onto the country and that's where we moved to the
- 20:59dairy farm. And so there's, it's a very long
- 21:04story, so I don't have to get too much in detail, but but we,
- 21:07we left the safety of my grandmother's home at that
- 21:10point. And that's when everything
- 21:12started to go totally crazy through a period.
- 21:18Without getting into the minutiae of from 8910, there was
- 21:28some hardcore drug addiction depth that I've I've never seen
- 21:35before, never seen again. That was the darkest times I've
- 21:39ever watched someone go through my life with him, struggling
- 21:42with himself and his addictions, his vices, his he was wild.
- 21:50My father very much like me out, or I should say, I'm very much
- 21:53like my father, very energetic, very my father was brilliant.
- 22:00My mother was brilliant. Thank God that I've been blessed
- 22:04with the, with the, with the, with the emotional capability
- 22:06that I have when the and the intelligence that I've, I've
- 22:09been blessed with. It's, it's a, it's a gift from
- 22:12God. I'm so grateful.
- 22:16So by 10 years old, he had been through prison, through jail.
- 22:23At this time, I'm bouncing around all these different
- 22:25places. I can remember the Sheriff's
- 22:27Department kicking in my front door, me escaping out the back.
- 22:31They couldn't chase him. He only had one leg, you know,
- 22:34And I ran away. I escaped from the Sheriff's
- 22:37Department. At this point, I went to stay
- 22:39with a friend, dear friend of mine, Greg Stratt.
- 22:42Love, love him and his mother Rose.
- 22:47This was my life. This was this toxic, caustic
- 22:51wildlife. OK, so then my dad gets out of
- 22:57it. Was in prison.
- 22:58At this point. It was jail.
- 22:59He served 1129 for that infraction.
- 23:01He got caught up with about 30 people in a huge drug ring.
- 23:05OK, so now I'm in 10 years old, ten years old, eleven years old,
- 23:13and we're in this new neighborhood and across the
- 23:15county. My my county I'm from is
- 23:16massive. He just falls deeper, deeper
- 23:24into drug addiction, deeper into depression.
- 23:27I watched this man, he would drink 40 beers before noon any
- 23:30given day. He could be totally blacked out,
- 23:33totally drunk, totally just out of this planet, one leg on
- 23:37drugs, on pills, on this, on that, whatever.
- 23:40And so he was, he was a tortured soul.
- 23:42And I'm not saying I'm not, I'm not, I'm not telling you these
- 23:45things because like, I'm, I'm not, I'm not looking for
- 23:48sympathy. I'm not looking for like this.
- 23:49It's not about that. It's about it's about
- 23:51celebrating my father and this poor man who experienced these
- 23:54things and through all of the things that he experienced in my
- 24:00observations of him experiencing them, they set me up to be able
- 24:07to be a successful man. And it was through seeing how
- 24:12deep and dark he went that I was able to be as a quote UN quote
- 24:17successful. Whatever I've done pretty well
- 24:18in my career. I've I've, I'm proud of myself.
- 24:22So then let's say 1011 years old.
- 24:25So now I'm starting to become a young man, no longer a childish
- 24:30ish. And so then we start partying
- 24:35together. We started any drugs together.
- 24:38My dad's philosophy was I wouldn't, I wouldn't expose you
- 24:41to all of these things before you will ever be exposed to them
- 24:45from someone else because I'm going to protect you.
- 24:48I'm going to teach you how to navigate these waters, which is
- 24:52not a good idea. I would never do that with my
- 24:54children. No way.
- 24:56But but so, you know, I can remember.
- 24:59I can remember a time when and I'll never forget MTV Pantera
- 25:08had done a cover of Black Sabbath's Planet Caravan, one of
- 25:15my favorite songs. It was on the television.
- 25:17And my father holds his hand out to me.
- 25:18He says, take one and his hits of acid in the palm of his hand.
- 25:25And I'm like 10 years old. And so here we go.
- 25:28We're going to go on this trip totally responsible, but but but
- 25:32that just kind of like there's it's an important reason why I'm
- 25:36sharing this. So for me now, 10:11, 12/13/13 I
- 25:48start becoming super wild and I escaped that environment.
- 25:56I started running away from home.
- 25:58I couldn't be in that environment.
- 25:59My father at that point started going off the rails and crack
- 26:01cocaine, total hardcore addiction.
- 26:05You know, we lived on welfare. The 1st of the month.
- 26:08It was just like that Bone Thug song, you know, You know, it's
- 26:11like first of the month and because everybody's coming
- 26:13around, everybody's smoking, everybody's cooking, everybody's
- 26:15doing all this and that and it became such a toxic environment.
- 26:19I'm like, I don't want to be in that environment anymore.
- 26:21Even at 13 years old, my friends are I, I ran with a group that
- 26:25was a little older than me. They're getting killed, they're
- 26:29committing suicide, they're going to prison.
- 26:32And I'm like, this is not good. So I started to branch out.
- 26:36Skateboarding give me that kind of freedom because I had groups
- 26:39all over in different areas. So I started to to escape.
- 26:44Took me a little while. At 14, I left again.
- 26:51Toxic environment. I can't be around this at this
- 26:54point. I've been a juvenile detention.
- 26:55I've done all kind of different crazy things.
- 26:58I'm out, I'm out. I can't deal with this.
- 27:01I'm out. I ran away from home.
- 27:06I turned 15 on a Greyhound bus on the way to Los Angeles in
- 27:10Dallas, TX. And here I am freshly minted, 15
- 27:13years and one day old in Dallas, TX, excuse me, in Los Angeles.
- 27:19And I can remember looking up at this city because I knew all the
- 27:23skate spots and I could skate pretty good.
- 27:26You know, here I am this little punk rocker, like whatever.
- 27:28And I like Venice Beach, like I'm, you know, like I'll kind of
- 27:31like fit in whatever. And I met a group of kids and we
- 27:34all skated and I spent like 3 months there skating.
- 27:37Have a good time. And, and eventually I couldn't
- 27:41prove who I was. I couldn't, you know, things
- 27:43happen and eventually I had to go back and actually my dad came
- 27:45and got me and brought me back, but which is crazy, but he was
- 27:49wild. He would do that and I've been
- 27:52on for three months. Of course I have to go back to
- 27:54juvenile attention. I leave juvenile attention again
- 27:59and basically broke out of juvenile attention.
- 28:04It wasn't like breaking out. It's not like there's bars
- 28:06you're not saw. It's not a saw it through bars
- 28:09and anything. But you can leave.
- 28:11You're not supposed to. And I came to Nashville, TN and
- 28:16that was my deliverance. I left in the middle of the
- 28:20night. I went to Nashville, TN.
- 28:22There's a little bit of a precursor to that, but we're not
- 28:24going to go into that now. I arrived on Broadway.
- 28:30I made a post about it the other day.
- 28:32And I arrived on Broadway. There was a, there was a
- 28:34Greyhound bus station right behind Broadway.
- 28:36I happen to know a dude that works at a restaurant called
- 28:38Wolfies on Broadway. Robert Wiseman, exceptional
- 28:43skateboarder. He was from Chico, CA good
- 28:45friend of mine. And I went to the restaurant
- 28:49where he was working Wolfy's on Broadway and I'm like, yo, Bob,
- 28:52what's up? I need a job.
- 28:53I need a house, I need all this. And he's like, shit, They used
- 28:57to call me Crazy Dave. He said shit, Crazy Dave, let's
- 29:00go like, whatever. I've got a I've got an
- 29:02opportunity for you. Let me talk to Robert that owns
- 29:06the place or Bob that owns. But Bob Wolf, who's the guy that
- 29:08owns the place. Bob comes around mountain of a
- 29:12man, huge dude. He used to play drums for Johnny
- 29:14Paycheck. If you ever know any of that old
- 29:16country music and there's a honky tonk and Bob says you need
- 29:22a job, I said I would love to have the opportunity.
- 29:24Yeah, please. So you know how to cook.
- 29:25I'm like, no, but I haven't washed dishes.
- 29:27I can clean up. You know, I'll show up.
- 29:29I'm responsible. I wasn't respectful enough.
- 29:31I saw the diners, You know, I would like respectful,
- 29:34respectful. So I said also, I need a place
- 29:39to stay. And he says, well, you know
- 29:42what? We have a studio upstairs and
- 29:45I'll take it out of your check. So within 20 minutes of arriving
- 29:52in Nashville, TN, I had a job, I had an apartment, you know,
- 29:58paycheck. I had all the food I wanted to
- 30:00eat and I was set. And I never turned back.
- 30:05I never turned back. Now, of course there was all
- 30:07upset. It took a lot to get, you know,
- 30:10that's but that's a precursor to, you know, that's the that's
- 30:14the childhood, the stimulus of my childhood, the lessons I
- 30:19learned that are very good lessons.
- 30:22And I don't I don't look at it. It sounds like it comes off like
- 30:24this, like what was me like negative thing.
- 30:27But for me, they were the greatest stimulus that I could
- 30:30have ever had because it prevented me from making those
- 30:33mistakes in the future. Yeah.
- 30:35You know, you think I ever fell into drug addiction?
- 30:38No way. I was frightened.
- 30:40Frightened of that. There's no way.
- 30:42And there's no way, because I saw what humanity would do at a
- 30:45very young age. So really, that gave me the the
- 30:48desire to find a deeper depth of my perception.
- 30:53Excuse me, profession and and and run for it.
- 30:56Yeah, but I was still pursuing skateboarding.
- 30:58Right. At this point I was a really
- 31:00good skateboarder. That's a, that's a wild story.
- 31:03It's a, it's a, it's wild that you've gone through that and
- 31:06despite and overcome and gotten to the places that that you've
- 31:11gotten to. It's powerful because a lot of
- 31:14chefs out there share similar. Stories for sure, right?
- 31:17For sure. Some of them, Some of them don't
- 31:20make it to where. You've made it.
- 31:21Some of them get. Stuck in the mud.
- 31:23Yeah, right. Yeah.
- 31:24Look at Curtis. Yeah.
- 31:26You know Curtis Duffy. Yeah, that story, bro, I've got
- 31:31so much respect for. I don't even know him.
- 31:32Yeah, but that story is powerful.
- 31:35Powerful. Yeah.
- 31:36Yeah, indeed. He just wrote a book.
- 31:37I need to read it. Yeah, me too.
- 31:38Yeah. Yeah, I didn't know that.
- 31:40Yeah, I. Can't remember the name of his
- 31:42book. I should I should give it a
- 31:43shout out on the show but I don't remember the name.
- 31:46Of it drop in, drop in notes, yeah, yeah, I'll drop it in the
- 31:49joint notes, yeah. Yeah, but he's AG too.
- 31:52He is. And that, and that's some
- 31:54stimulus you talk about some stimulus.
- 31:55Yeah. So, you know, but so my whole
- 31:57life, I've always felt like like, you know, I have my
- 32:00perspective, have my my things or whatever.
- 32:03My father, my father was very. I don't want to interrupt you.
- 32:07I'll call it. No, no, go ahead.
- 32:08But but there's a there's an important thing here is that my
- 32:10dad would never allow him to be called himself, to be called
- 32:14disabled. He would not.
- 32:17He was in that mindset. Yeah, somebody else has got it
- 32:20worse. And I have to live my life that
- 32:22way because I know that there's kids out there that experience
- 32:24worse. I know that they do daily.
- 32:26I know that the, you know, so many different types of abuse
- 32:29that are just horrific that people experience.
- 32:32But I think my, my, I mean, Kurt's experience is, is
- 32:36powerful, but my experience allowed me to be able to move
- 32:46forward in a different way. So I try to look back at
- 32:50everything that I experienced, even to this day as a positive.
- 32:54I always try to find the positive silver lining, no
- 32:57matter how difficult it may seem now as we struggle through these
- 33:00things or experience them or celebrate them.
- 33:05You know what, what is Frank Sinatra say?
- 33:07Flying high? Flying high in April and shot
- 33:09down in May. That's that's life, you know,
- 33:12You got to keep yourself, you know, You never know.
- 33:15Grim reapers on your tail, man, you know?
- 33:17But it all set me up to be able to be what I was able to do.
- 33:24And later I'll tell you about a very important story that
- 33:28changed my life. Well, let's get right into it,
- 33:30OK? Well, so, so here I am in
- 33:33Nashville, TN, running around doing my thing and I was just
- 33:36woefully unprepared to do that. First thing I do is get a huge
- 33:41tattoo on my neck. I get tattoos all over my body.
- 33:43I need to look like I'm scary and tough and like, like, you
- 33:46don't fuck with me, you know, like this is like I'm dangerous
- 33:51because I was a child, right? I need to project, put on a
- 33:54facade, you know? And it worked.
- 33:58Yeah, enough. I was also pretty wild, so I
- 34:01didn't. That was the helped.
- 34:03I wasn't scared to get into anything.
- 34:05I would do anything anytime. Never hurt anyone.
- 34:08I never like in my life. I never like stole from people.
- 34:10I never like hurt people. Never.
- 34:12Never. My father really is complex of a
- 34:19man as he was. He had a great set of morals and
- 34:22ethics. And it was about protecting your
- 34:25fellow man. About protecting someone who
- 34:28can't protect themselves, it was more of a protector mindset than
- 34:31it was or defensive mindset than it was in a predatory mindset.
- 34:35And, and he was beautiful man for that.
- 34:38He was, he was, I'm, I'm so blessed that he taught me that
- 34:40at a young age. And of course, in, in, in, in
- 34:43rural Appalachia, we have a very biblical kind of approach to
- 34:50things, right. And you have to like live by the
- 34:5310 commandments in the Golden Rule.
- 34:56But anyhow, so I, I traveled around a little bit.
- 34:59I was in Nashville, I was in Miami, and then I went to
- 35:03Knoxville and Knoxville is kind of where I had my awakening for
- 35:06culinary and I. How old are you at this time
- 35:10when you get to? Knoxville, 1717.
- 35:12Yeah, my first day in Knoxville. I remember I met up with these
- 35:16guys at the skate at the Skate shop.
- 35:18Yeah, We went over to Fort Sanders.
- 35:20We were skating around. I go into this house with these
- 35:24guys. Like I said, I didn't do drugs.
- 35:25I don't smoke pot. I don't know.
- 35:27None of that. I don't like, I don't, that's
- 35:29not my thing. And they're like, hey, sit, sit
- 35:32there. This guy's going to come over
- 35:35and just you sit there and I'm like, what?
- 35:37What's going on? And so apparently this guy had
- 35:39robbed these guys a couple days before.
- 35:42And this dude comes through the front door and this guy's hiding
- 35:44behind the door with a baseball bat.
- 35:47The guy walks towards me in the house.
- 35:50I have no clue why. I'm a child.
- 35:52I'm literally a child. And the dude behind the door
- 35:55comes out the smash the guy in the head with the baseball bat,
- 35:58like, Ding, like, here's Knoxville.
- 36:01Welcome to Knoxville. So, OK, what's what do I do?
- 36:05I don't know who any of these guys are.
- 36:07I run out the back door. Get me away from these people.
- 36:10Like, I don't want to be around this.
- 36:11So this is day one of Knoxville. I'll never forget that day one.
- 36:14That was what I told myself. Oh, my God.
- 36:16Day one, Marble City, baby. Here we go.
- 36:19Yeah. So so.
- 36:22I knew that wasn't the crew to hang out with immediately.
- 36:24So I started really embedding myself in in in my profession.
- 36:28That was really a big catalyst for that because I cannot
- 36:30continue down this road with these punk rockers, the
- 36:33skateboarders, these kind of miscreants.
- 36:37Like that's not, that's what I tried to escape from.
- 36:41And so I was like, look, day one already.
- 36:43We're here. This is not the life I'm going
- 36:46to live. I'm going to be a professional
- 36:48chef. That was it.
- 36:51And I had happened to be able to get a position at a place called
- 36:54Chesapeake's and it was a Maryland style seafood
- 36:57restaurant owned by a gentleman named Mike Chase.
- 37:00And it was awesome. It was great.
- 37:03It was not a chef restaurant, but it was a restaurant that
- 37:06served tons of fresh seafood, cooked aluminute and done well
- 37:11with recipes and I loved it. I loved it.
- 37:14I learned a lot from that group. It was called the Copper Seller.
- 37:17Copper Seller Group. I'm still around.
- 37:20Yeah, Yeah. Every time I go to Knoxville, I
- 37:22go to Chesapeake. Yeah.
- 37:23Yeah. A little reminisce.
- 37:26So it it wasn't somewhere that you would retire at for me at
- 37:30that time with my aspirations. Because at the same time,
- 37:33working in Copper Cellar Group, I met a dude named Chris
- 37:35Rainwater who was like, you have to read the Escoffier cookbook.
- 37:40Leguid. Leguid.
- 37:41Yeah. Leguid.
- 37:42Kill an air. Yeah.
- 37:44I don't think his southern accent would would allow him to
- 37:45lay guide. Lay guide, but, but so I bought
- 37:52it and I bought it at Barnes and Nobles.
- 37:57And my girlfriend at the time actually took me to Barnes and
- 37:59Nobles and I was like, they have cookbooks.
- 38:01They're like, she's like, yeah, yeah, of course they have a huge
- 38:03cookbook session. And for me, being from where I'm
- 38:07from, a cookbook store is like a bookstore Where I'm from in
- 38:10Greene County is like an antique store at that time.
- 38:14Yeah. And so you go in and you buy old
- 38:18Aesop's tails or. Something, you know, like
- 38:20there's, you know, old. Books and I'm like, OK, well
- 38:23let's see what they have. I didn't even really it didn't
- 38:25resonate what they the potential was.
- 38:26And I remember walking into Barnes and Nobles and there was
- 38:29this little stand that had the the discount books.
- 38:31Yeah, I was like, wow. And she's like, dude, you have
- 38:34no idea, look over there and there was like 4.
- 38:38Walls of cookbooks. Yeah, There was free coffee.
- 38:42There was free coffee. Couple lazy boys.
- 38:44Old days of the old days, couple lazy boys, you know, some
- 38:49tables. And I was like, you mean I can
- 38:51read? Any of these books, she's like,
- 38:53yeah, she was a poet. She was always in the bookstore.
- 38:57Yeah, go, no, go read. So that was like started started
- 39:01this thing and then Chris told me about the league Culinaire
- 39:05and I'm like OK, wow. Like this is incredible.
- 39:09So I started studying cuisine. So Chris is also the person who
- 39:12told me about a restaurant called Club Lecant.
- 39:17Club Lecant was on the 27th floor of the First Tennessee
- 39:20Bank building downtown on Gay Street, and the whole top floor
- 39:26was private dining club. And it was the Creme de la
- 39:29Creme. Like if you want to be a chef.
- 39:32There's only one place to work that's.
- 39:34Where you work. And so I put in AI, put in a
- 39:40application, resume wasn't even in.
- 39:44I couldn't even figure that out at that point.
- 39:46I put in an application and my application got put in with the
- 39:51dining room teams. So I didn't hear anything for
- 39:53like 3 months. And at this time I was working 1
- 39:57restaurant at lunch, 1 restaurant at dinner.
- 39:59I was working double SI, had tons of tons of cash.
- 40:01I was stacking cash, tons of cash.
- 40:04I was able to do whatever I wanted to do, and I had burned
- 40:09out all my opportunities. Not through.
- 40:13Poor relationship management, but for for desire to be in
- 40:18those establishments at that point in Knoxville.
- 40:20And I was like, I don't want to be anywhere else.
- 40:22I don't like I'm done. I'm going to join the Navy.
- 40:25I'm going to get AGI Bill and I'm going to go to culinary
- 40:27school. So I started to pursue that A
- 40:31few days later after I started that, well, maybe a week to
- 40:34leave, 2 weeks later after I started that process, a
- 40:37gentleman named Seth Zimmerman, who was the executive chef
- 40:40called me and he says, hey, I'm just reaching out to see if
- 40:43you're still interested in joining A-Team.
- 40:46Your, your application was accidentally put with the dining
- 40:49room teams. But I, I do have an opportunity
- 40:52if you want to come in and interview.
- 40:54And I said, chef I, I'm very grateful for your call, but I'm,
- 40:59I'm, I'm going to join the United States Navy today.
- 41:01And he says, what are you going to do in the Navy?
- 41:05I said, I'm going to be a chef. And he says, OK, you may want to
- 41:09come talk to me. I was a chef in the submarine in
- 41:11Vietnam. You know they're out patrolling
- 41:15around. Yeah, he says you may want to
- 41:18talk to me first. Let's just have a chat.
- 41:22And this was like a gentleman speaking to a young man.
- 41:25Sure. Like he he probably didn't care
- 41:26if I joined the team or not. He's like, probably wants to
- 41:29just try to drop some wisdom. So I said, well, you know what,
- 41:32chef? Absolutely I will.
- 41:34So I went to the recruiter and I said, Sir, I may have an
- 41:37opportunity to, to that I, that I, that I'm, that I'm going to
- 41:42consider. And if it goes nowhere because I
- 41:46had an appointment to complete my paperwork, I, I will be right
- 41:49back. And the guy looks at me and he
- 41:51says, Sir, the United States Navy is not your second choice.
- 41:55It cannot be your second choice. And I said, OK, well look, I'm,
- 41:59I'm going to go speak with this gentleman.
- 42:00And, and he reached out to me and I put my hand out to shake
- 42:02his hand and he refused to shake my hand.
- 42:04And I'm like, it's very telling. You're right.
- 42:07At that point too, I was a hard ass.
- 42:08Like I'm not, you know, I'm not like him.
- 42:11He's a grown man. But I'm saying like I was tough
- 42:13nuts. Like I'm not taking nothing from
- 42:16anybody. So I'm like, this is very
- 42:18telling of the future, sad future of me getting beaten.
- 42:22For years. Yeah, right.
- 42:23Yeah. So I was like, probably a good
- 42:24thing. Your life flashing.
- 42:26Pull your eyes. Yeah.
- 42:27This what the next few years look like revealed itself.
- 42:29You know, like it revealed itself.
- 42:30I'm not doing this. And so when I went and met Seth,
- 42:33it was probably the greatest moment in my life at that point,
- 42:39at that point for sure, because I had found a mentor and and and
- 42:45I had found a person who would care for me, like my own father.
- 42:48And I spoke with you about this with the check pants the other
- 42:50day, you know, and that was like, I literally start crying
- 42:52on the phone. So so I go and meet Seth and
- 42:56Seth says, OK, listen. And he looked me up and down and
- 42:59I'm like this shave head little like white T-shirt, tight blue
- 43:02jeans, like just look punk rocker like.
- 43:05And he's like, come on, like I'm going to whip you in the shape.
- 43:07I know he's sizing me up and I'm like he says, well, so do you
- 43:11know how to cook? And it's the first time in my
- 43:13life I said, no, I don't. I do not chef.
- 43:17I'm familiar with some things, but I'm eager to learn.
- 43:22And he's like, OK, good. He said.
- 43:24I called all of your references. You're not eligible for rehiring
- 43:28any of them. However, many of them said that
- 43:34you're a good kid and they would rehire if they could.
- 43:38And the dude took me in and that was the like that was the the
- 43:43spark. Seth Zimmerman, my #1 mentor.
- 43:46I wrote about him in our book, our recent book, Thomas and I
- 43:48with the French linger per SE book.
- 43:50OK, the show Fly Trout. I learned that from I I learned
- 43:53a lot of things that I do today. I learned from Seth.
- 43:56Yeah. Yeah.
- 43:57And I and I and I continue to perpetuate those dishes.
- 44:00He's still around. Yeah, he's still around.
- 44:02Yeah. Good dude.
- 44:02Good dude. Toughest.
- 44:04Male. Is he still the chef of that
- 44:05place? No, no, no.
- 44:06He retired a long time ago. He was 55 when I was 17.
- 44:10OK. Yeah.
- 44:11So he's he's chilling. Yeah, good for him.
- 44:13Good for him. By the pool.
- 44:14Yeah. Yeah, he's a good.
- 44:17Guy, good guy and, and I'll share the, the story that I
- 44:21mentioned to you. We, we spoke about check pattern
- 44:24the other day and for me, every time I see the check pattern,
- 44:29the houndstooth pattern, the black and white houndstooth and
- 44:31of course Thomas has that line of China that I just love, you
- 44:35know, it's just so beautiful to see every time I see it, you
- 44:39know, women love to wear today it's scarves or the, the blouse
- 44:43or the whatever. And I just, every time I see it,
- 44:45it just warms my heart. And only in the conversation
- 44:48with you did I realize why. Yeah.
- 44:51You know, because we I said we we were talking about the
- 44:54nostalgia of it and whatever. And I said why?
- 44:56Why do we like that? And I said it, it, it transports
- 45:03us to that time in our lives when we were kind of vulnerable.
- 45:06Yeah, right. Yeah.
- 45:07We're the kids. We got our.
- 45:09Little The world is in front of us, right?
- 45:12Yeah, the The Call to Adventure. For sure.
- 45:15Call to adventure, right? Yeah, It was our.
- 45:17It was our for chefs, it's. Your multicam when you join the
- 45:21Rangers, right? It's like.
- 45:22Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, there's sometimes I
- 45:25there's a there's a page on Instagram, I think it's don't
- 45:28eat before reading this or something like love that.
- 45:31I love that there always show Marcos stuff videos.
- 45:33Yeah, love it. I.
- 45:35Because I want nothing more than to just be a, a saucer in that
- 45:39kitchen. Yeah, you know, with a baggy
- 45:40chef coat, check pants and A and a white apron that's like
- 45:44flimsy. Yeah.
- 45:45And, and just be skimming stock or roasting bones or whatever
- 45:48and just those smells and there's just something about
- 45:53those kitchens that I feel like I don't know.
- 45:56I and I know kitchens are still kitchens, but there's just there
- 45:59was a feeling in those days in the kitchen there was just
- 46:02something special about. It pride and belonging.
- 46:04I mean, those guys literally kill for their positions.
- 46:06Yeah, I mean, they they they earn those positions Very.
- 46:11I don't, I'm not saying anything.
- 46:12I don't want to do that. I'm sorry.
- 46:14The the, the, the the chefs today are rightfully where they
- 46:18are. The young chef, I'm speaking,
- 46:20the younger chef, the apprentices, the chef, the
- 46:24parties, the commis are rightfully where they are and
- 46:27they deserve everything that they have in that other area.
- 46:30I don't want to be that old guy that says uphill both ways in
- 46:33the Snow Bear. Right, Right.
- 46:35But it was a different thing because we had a different set
- 46:38of resources to learn from. Yeah.
- 46:40And then we talked. About this at length, yeah.
- 46:42Yeah. You were talking about Barnes
- 46:44and Noble earlier. And I remember so, so much of my
- 46:47life before Google and even during the Google time, right.
- 46:51Yeah, It was day off. What am I going to do?
- 46:53I'm going to go to Barnes and Noble.
- 46:55I'm going to pick up a stack of books.
- 46:56I'm going to sit on the couch, and I'm going to sit there and
- 46:58read because I could probably only afford to buy one book.
- 47:01So I'm going to read 10 of them. Yeah.
- 47:02Pick the one that I'm going to. Buy the one that's most
- 47:04compelling, right? Right.
- 47:06Yeah, so much notes. Yeah, and make notes and and
- 47:09like, OK, this one's good, but oh geez, which one do I get?
- 47:12Is the new. Trotter book or is it that
- 47:13right? Yeah, I.
- 47:15Literally went in debt. Yeah.
- 47:17I mean, Charlie's Roger put my ass in debt.
- 47:18Yeah, friend. That was it.
- 47:20Actually, I'll share a book with you that was really impactful
- 47:23for me. It's it helped.
- 47:25It helped. It gave me everything.
- 47:31Karen Page, Andrew Dornberg Becoming a chef.
- 47:36That's right. I have that book.
- 47:37Yeah, it's a great book. Credible.
- 47:38I think it came out in 1996. It was one of the first ones
- 47:43that I got along with my escapier by.
- 47:47Food Lover's. Companion Irma.
- 47:49Food Lover's companion. That was a Dornberg.
- 47:51No, Irma. Shit, I can't remember, but Food
- 47:55lover's companion was great. Yeah, great.
- 47:57Of course. Julia.
- 47:58Yeah, Jacques. Right the the technique.
- 48:02The technique, yeah, I, I buy it every time I find one, I buy it,
- 48:06Yeah. And I give it away.
- 48:09I buy, I buy. I give so many books away, the
- 48:11ones that are important to me. But that book, sorry, let me,
- 48:14I'm a storyteller, man. So we're going to get out there.
- 48:16No, no, go for it. But so, but, but so becoming a
- 48:19chef was so powerful in my career because it told me
- 48:25exactly what my forefathers did to achieve their goals.
- 48:30And I never knew. How is some hillbilly redneck
- 48:33from East Tennessee going to know what a stash is that you
- 48:37can show up and do professional internship on your own accord
- 48:41like that? Don't know that.
- 48:43I don't know anything about that.
- 48:45I never worked in other professions.
- 48:46I mean, I roofed some houses, I got some tobacco.
- 48:48I did a little this and that. Like, I don't know.
- 48:51But So what that book did is it laid out what probably in the
- 48:5490s were the 20 most prominent chefs, the Jeremiah Towers, the
- 48:59the Waldie Maloofs, the I apologize, I can't really pull
- 49:04them out of my head right now, but I should have read before I
- 49:06came. I didn't even think about
- 49:09talking about that. But what it said was most of
- 49:11these guys would show up at Bokus.
- 49:16Hello, Sir. I would love to observe service
- 49:19today or may I stash or whatever it is I came.
- 49:23Here's the letter of recommendation from my previous
- 49:25chef, right, but I didn't have that.
- 49:27But what I what it said to me was show up application, right?
- 49:35We'll get you there. Apply yourself.
- 49:38So I started showing up. So after I had my club of con
- 49:43experience, I was fortunate to get that experience.
- 49:46I worked out a deal with Seth Zimmerman to where he would pick
- 49:48me up every day. I live way out in West Town
- 49:51Knoxville by design to stay away from the my peer group.
- 49:56The Riff, The riff and I live way out in West Knoxville.
- 50:03My lovely girlfriend Glenn Sapolo, she was incredible.
- 50:07She really was a powerful part in empowering me to be able to
- 50:12achieve what I achieved. She was an incredible woman.
- 50:16She helped me a lot. She a great person, great human
- 50:18being, the poet, which is very thoughtful.
- 50:24I went from, I went from West Town.
- 50:28I organized with Seth who lived on the other side of West Town,
- 50:30of the town called Farragut. Will you pick me up at 8:30 in
- 50:33the morning or pick me up in the morning?
- 50:35It happened to be there was 830 that he would come through.
- 50:37He agreed. I'll pick you up at 8:30.
- 50:39I'm going to work from 8:30 till 2:30 for free every single day.
- 50:45I clock in at 2:30. I'm going to work my my station,
- 50:47the grill station. So from 8:30 AM or maybe we
- 50:52arrive at 9. From 9 till 2:30.
- 50:55I was like spec OPS. I do anything that needed to be
- 50:59done. I'm an extra hand hired hit my
- 51:02mom. I learned so much.
- 51:05Chef would bring me books. He would challenge me to make
- 51:08specials. He would challenge me to, you
- 51:10know, we're carving ice for the buffets.
- 51:12We're doing this huge chauffeur salmons.
- 51:14We're doing like for, for that. That restaurant has seven dining
- 51:18rooms, one of which was a la carte, one of which was a bar.
- 51:22And then you would have a omelette or primary station or
- 51:27action station right right here. You would have a choice of
- 51:30entrees here, you know, 3 course menu.
- 51:33This one would have a a salad buffet and maybe a couple hot
- 51:37buffets with an entree that we got and it was just like.
- 51:40It's a classy buffet, the salmon Koviak over here in Wellington,
- 51:44Yeah. Yeah, yeah.
- 51:45So it's all. Popping.
- 51:47Yeah, but so after one year, I had two years of experience,
- 51:51plus I applied myself. I would sit at home and 20
- 51:53potatoes so I could get the dexterity, you know, like I'm
- 51:56going to figure out how to do this.
- 51:57I can do this. I was usually in, I would do
- 51:59this because I knew eventually I had to be able to match up with
- 52:02people that went to culinary school, right.
- 52:04But I was a teenager, run away, high school dropout.
- 52:07I'm never going to be able to go to culinary school in my mind,
- 52:11in my mind. So in practice, I became sick.
- 52:16So you're buying like sack of potatoes at home porn.
- 52:19A bird's beak. I'm a soup, yeah.
- 52:20No, Seth would give me the potatoes and I would bring them
- 52:23back to work. It's like the old stories of the
- 52:25guys at Ramsey's Royal Hospital Rd. splitting peas at the house.
- 52:29Yeah, there's French Laundry stories about that kind of
- 52:32stuff, you know? Yeah.
- 52:33Not my generation, but previous generations.
- 52:35But I mean, my generation really spans a lot, 20 years, but but
- 52:40not not my generation. We didn't do that, however.
- 52:43I mean, Thomas gave us great resources.
- 52:44So I'm blessed for that. But but so at some point I had
- 52:52amassed this experience and love on and Seth had realized that I
- 52:57had kind of grown to the point that I need to my next position
- 53:02and I didn't know he's thinking this.
- 53:03We didn't talk about this or whatever he says.
- 53:05How do you think about Charleston chef?
- 53:07I'd love to go to Charleston. I'm going to take you to Johnson
- 53:10Wales. Wow.
- 53:13OK, yeah, I'm going to introduce you.
- 53:17My friend. He's got a restaurant.
- 53:19So this dude took me probably one of the a pretty impactful
- 53:26member of his kitchen. I was not in any position to
- 53:28manage anyone. I was young and wild.
- 53:31I could not be a sous chef. I could not be responsible for
- 53:33anyone. I had too much ego, too much
- 53:36energy, like just not, not even. However, I had a desire.
- 53:41He brought me to Charleston, took me to his friend friend
- 53:46Tanks. Frank Chisera's restaurant was
- 53:49called the Harbor Club in impeccable beautiful restaurant.
- 53:55We introduced He said here's David.
- 53:57He has a very hard head and a very strong back.
- 54:01I remember those words, yeah. Very hard headed, a very strong
- 54:04back, which means you got to beat the hell.
- 54:06I mean, I can work hard. There's one thing I've always
- 54:09been good. I could work my ass off.
- 54:11This comes from the tobacco fields.
- 54:13Yeah, and skateboarding too. Thousands.
- 54:17Of repetitions. And then he took me and
- 54:20introduced me to the Dean at Johnson Wells.
- 54:23And I was able to get into a summer program, at least to have
- 54:26the confidence to be able to do what I'm able to do.
- 54:29And Johnson Wells was a really good thing for me.
- 54:31And I never in my lifetime thought that I would ever be
- 54:33able to go to college. And they provided that
- 54:35opportunity for me. They opened that door for me.
- 54:38I was able to get in on a very affordable path because it was
- 54:48not a degree necessary degree path.
- 54:50It was a orientation type path. I, I had already kind of
- 54:55surpassed a lot of that with my studies.
- 54:57I was so studious, not to say I was better than anyone there.
- 55:01I don't mean it like that. I mean that just orientation of
- 55:03understanding, right? What do you go to coloring
- 55:05school, school for general orientation of things.
- 55:09And then when you have the upper degrees, those are very
- 55:11important for business management.
- 55:13But so then here I am in Charleston, SC Incredible.
- 55:19A new cuisine, Low country cuisine.
- 55:21I had no idea. They're all Southern.
- 55:23We all speak with the same twang.
- 55:25We all have the kind of same thing.
- 55:26I'm a mountain boy. They're low country, but the
- 55:30food's different. Yeah.
- 55:31And I just went in again. That same loop of this
- 55:36consumption, of this incredible cuisine, this incredible culture
- 55:41has some very good mentors. I did that for a while with with
- 55:48Frank. I was at Charleston Grill under
- 55:51a gentleman named Bob Wagoner who was the only at the time.
- 55:56I don't know about past since chef in France.
- 56:00American chef in France to achieve 2 Michelin stars.
- 56:03Well Le Monte Cristo. Bob Wagoner is brilliant, one of
- 56:07the best friend chefs you'll ever meet in your life and you
- 56:09probably never heard of him. He's amazing.
- 56:12He runs a little cooking school now.
- 56:14Just so charismatic, incredible. He's from California, actually
- 56:21ended up in Charleston somehow, I'm not sure, at the Charleston
- 56:24Grill in the Charleston Place Hotel, which is a brilliant old
- 56:26property. But then I met a gentleman named
- 56:31Michael Kramer. Then Kramer was the second
- 56:34mentor. Kramer was amazing.
- 56:39Michael Kramer we used to call the California kid.
- 56:42He was this. He was probably 27 years old,
- 56:46redheaded Jewish kid from Pacific Palisades, CA.
- 56:50He could not have been any different than most of us, which
- 56:53was the best thing that we ever needed because we're all these
- 56:56little southern thing. And here comes this gentleman
- 57:01who had incredible experience, incredible figure.
- 57:05He would ride 30 miles on his bicycle every day for breakfast.
- 57:08The dude would the dude was the most energetic person I've ever
- 57:12met. And he cooked exactly the same
- 57:14way. And his cuisine was very
- 57:16Californian. He came from the camps of Spago
- 57:23back early 90s. Like, you know, when Lee was
- 57:27young and, and, and Wolf was in the kitchen and they were
- 57:32pounding. And that's a great, you know,
- 57:33Jason Nib was in on that team. There's a lot of those that,
- 57:38that's a that that camp. Yeah, when Sparkle was.
- 57:41The. Tip of the Spirit.
- 57:42Dude, they were good. Yeah, really good.
- 57:45And then he went to mansion on Turtle Creek and then he came to
- 57:48Charleston and partnered with with Piggly Wiggly.
- 57:54Mccrady's was originally owned by Piggly Wiggly, and of course,
- 57:59Mccrady's is the name in their profession.
- 58:01Sean Brock was very big and bringing that up, but I was a
- 58:03generation before Sean Brock Kramer taught me how to cook on
- 58:09demand, seasoned perfectly on demand.
- 58:14And in my lifetime, he's the only chef that I ever had at
- 58:17that point. If it wasn't season right,
- 58:20you're you're, you're getting it back, right back through the
- 58:24window. Not the rude way, not throwing
- 58:26food, but just like, no, I am not serving this.
- 58:30Never in my life had I experienced that Seth was Seth
- 58:33was very particular, but it was more of a was more of a business
- 58:37model. We produce this, we serve this.
- 58:40It can be, it can't be too salty, can't be on season.
- 58:43It just needs to be this, but there's.
- 58:45There's a lot of moving parts, yeah.
- 58:46You can't get too caught up, Yeah?
- 58:48Right, right. The Kramer was like the dude was
- 58:51like with this little spoon. So he always has little spoon
- 58:53and always every soup would make soup aluminu.
- 58:57All the soup was made aluminu. Yeah, I worked a hot app
- 58:59station. It was, I worked all the
- 59:01sessions eventually, but it was great.
- 59:04It was a really great experience.
- 59:06Kramer became the greatest mentors that I had ever had at
- 59:09that point and until, until Thomas.
- 59:13I mean, in my in my lineage of mentors, there's my father in
- 59:18tobacco field, Seth Zimmerman in the kitchen, Michael Kramer.
- 59:23Michael Kramer in the kitchen for a very different reason.
- 59:26And then Thomas Keller in the kitchen for their very different
- 59:28reason. Seth was a culinary instructor.
- 59:34Michael was a cooking teacher. I'm going to teach you how to
- 59:40bust this out, crush this perfectly.
- 59:44And then Thomas was a, a philosophical teacher.
- 59:47Then the three of them offered very different things that that
- 59:50didn't really overlap. From Mccrady's, do you go to?
- 59:53TfL. Well, no.
- 59:55There's one more soldier, if you will.
- 59:58I, I I. I was, I was fortunate.
- 1:00:01I had a very, very dear friend named Steven Green, who is, who
- 1:00:05is currently still an incredible chef.
- 1:00:08He's actually friends with Curtis.
- 1:00:11He's in, he's at the Olmsted. Very talented chef, very, very,
- 1:00:15very artistic, articulate, very talented Southern boy, good guy.
- 1:00:20So he was a saucier when I was the hot apps guy at Mccrady's.
- 1:00:24And he actually went to a restaurant called The Woodlands.
- 1:00:29And The Woodlands was ran by a gentleman named Ken Vidrensky,
- 1:00:32who was very accomplished globally.
- 1:00:35And he had worked in hotels throughout the world.
- 1:00:38And he was, it was kind of that restaurant was kind of the
- 1:00:43Unicorn, if you will. And at some point Stephen
- 1:00:47reached out to me and he says, hey, we need an AM sous chef.
- 1:00:50I think that you, you'd be a great fit.
- 1:00:53And it was a total blessing. I'm so grateful for him for
- 1:00:56that. And, and he and, and he invited
- 1:00:58me up and I interviewed and I took the position and I learned
- 1:01:03a lot. I learned a lot there because
- 1:01:05that was the first restaurant that I've worked in in my life
- 1:01:08that maybe would only serve 15 covers.
- 1:01:10And we had a tasting menu, we had a la carte menu and a prefix
- 1:01:14menu, all these different things.
- 1:01:16Breakfast, lunch, dinner was in a H5 Stars Mobile Relay Chateau
- 1:01:22Relay gourmand. Ken was Ken didn't drink.
- 1:01:27You weren't allowed to smoke. You weren't allowed to drink
- 1:01:30caffeine because it would numb your palate.
- 1:01:33You, you there were like these kind of rules that were about
- 1:01:36the food. And Ken was like a so
- 1:01:38enthusiastic about food. He was a wild dude, good, good
- 1:01:42guy. But when you would talk about
- 1:01:44food, you would watch him turn into a child, like just he love
- 1:01:50flavor, love food to recount these things in his life.
- 1:01:53So I took the the sous chef position there.
- 1:01:58And probably about four weeks later, my father was killed.
- 1:02:04So then I had, you know, I already had my.
- 1:02:07Yeah. You know, there's some issues
- 1:02:10there. Yeah, so, so when I was a kid,
- 1:02:15you know, I mentioned the thing about my mother that was very
- 1:02:17impactful. It's turned my father into this
- 1:02:19maniac. I ran away from home.
- 1:02:21I never reconcile with my father.
- 1:02:24I never, I never, ever had a conversation with him in my life
- 1:02:29that discuss any of the things that we went through together.
- 1:02:35And all of a sudden, he's dead. And I get a knock on the door in
- 1:02:37the middle of the night. My aunt and uncle are outside my
- 1:02:41apartment. I lived on King Street.
- 1:02:43And they're buzzing, trying to get up to my house.
- 1:02:48And I'm like, hello. Hello.
- 1:02:49This was not uncommon because it was like the, the the place was
- 1:02:53like Mardi Gras all the time. Hello.
- 1:02:57Hey, Anthony, let us up. This is this is Ange.
- 1:03:02This is John and Ange. Wow.
- 1:03:04My family calls me Anthony, by the way, my name is David
- 1:03:07Anthony. And I go downstairs to let him
- 1:03:12in. And I just knew because of my
- 1:03:14family, the way we are, I just knew my Uncle John had killed
- 1:03:16somebody. And I was here to hide him, you
- 1:03:19know? And my aunt's crying like a
- 1:03:22baby. My uncle's crying like a baby.
- 1:03:24And I'm like, who did you kill? First words out of who did you
- 1:03:28kill? What are we doing here?
- 1:03:31Like, let's, let's, let's chop like, let's chop it up.
- 1:03:33What are we doing? I'm ready to, like, hide him,
- 1:03:36drive him out of country. I don't know.
- 1:03:39And my aunt, my aunt looks at me.
- 1:03:40She said, no, Anthony, it's your daddy.
- 1:03:43He's been killed. Oh, I like, I like it crushed my
- 1:03:50soul because I'd always been prepared to reconcile with him
- 1:03:54at some point. And and I wasn't able to do so.
- 1:04:00So that was pretty devastating for me at that point, the most
- 1:04:03devastating thing I had ever experienced. close, close.
- 1:04:14It was pretty bad and, and I went into shock.
- 1:04:21And so then the next couple weeks, they were just went by
- 1:04:24really, really crazy. And I had to leave the
- 1:04:27restaurant and I didn't know what's going on with my life.
- 1:04:30And I went back to Tennessee in the mountains.
- 1:04:32And I can just remember the day that I'm at my father's funeral
- 1:04:38and all these people hadn't been home and forever.
- 1:04:40It'd been a very long time. I don't know who anyone is.
- 1:04:44And these people are coming through the procession.
- 1:04:52Hello, paying respects, whatever.
- 1:04:54My father was loved by everyone. And this gentleman walks up to
- 1:04:57me. He says, I bet you don't know
- 1:04:59who I am, do you? And secretly I don't know who
- 1:05:02the fuck any of you are. And he goes, He goes, I'm your
- 1:05:06granddad and today's your mother's birthday.
- 1:05:10Go ahead. So I'm standing.
- 1:05:11So I'm standing there in the procession and I don't know who
- 1:05:13anyone is really, you know, And it's just, it's been such a long
- 1:05:16time since I've been home and this guy comes by, no clue who
- 1:05:22he is. He says, I bet, I bet you don't
- 1:05:24know who I am, do you? No.
- 1:05:28And he goes, I'm your granddad and today's your mother's
- 1:05:32birthday. And I had no clue.
- 1:05:35Wow, bro. Like heavy emotional.
- 1:05:38Wow, heavy emotional stuff. So I just like crumble crying
- 1:05:44like a baby. I was already like had a couple
- 1:05:47of Valiums, maybe drank a couple of beers or something just to
- 1:05:49just to not to get like messed up or whatever.
- 1:05:52Just like I was like a anxiety mess.
- 1:05:55So I never knew my mother's family.
- 1:05:59I. Never knew what my mother's
- 1:06:00birthday was. So I buried my father.
- 1:06:03On my mother's birthday, I met my grandfather that, you know,
- 1:06:08one of my grandfather's not, not the grand, not the, not the
- 1:06:10gentleman that I called my grandfather and her, her father.
- 1:06:14So it was a lot of emotion, a lot of emotion.
- 1:06:17Here I am. I'm 2223 years old pursuing my
- 1:06:22my career. I'm a sous chef at a five star
- 1:06:24restaurant. Like, here you go.
- 1:06:25I'm still 23 years old. Yeah.
- 1:06:28And we've talked for an hour and a half about all this stuff.
- 1:06:29I'm like your child. I'm still a child.
- 1:06:32Your brain's not developed. So you're 26 years old, right?
- 1:06:34Like you like, I'm still my, my. Yeah.
- 1:06:37My prefrontal cortex is still spongy at this point.
- 1:06:40And and and. So I was just an emotional rag
- 1:06:44and I didn't know what to do. And at this point I was earning
- 1:06:47I think to like $28,000 a year to work 75 or 80 hours a week
- 1:06:52and just carry the load for the name of Hope cuisine and
- 1:06:56whatever. And that passes.
- 1:07:02I go home 4-5 weeks later, mom calls me and he says my Uncle
- 1:07:08John. He says, hey, apparently your
- 1:07:11dad had a life insurance policy and I'm surprised for sure.
- 1:07:17And so there's going to be a payout and I need your address.
- 1:07:25I need to make sure that we have all these details correct.
- 1:07:27What's your social? What's your this?
- 1:07:29Which is that all the stuff has to match up.
- 1:07:31And my so apparently my dad at some point through smoking 2
- 1:07:37packs of cigarettes a day, drinking 50 beers a day, doing
- 1:07:42God knows how many illicit drugs a day, found through his little
- 1:07:46bit of welfare money that he had to take out a life insurance
- 1:07:50policy. And I bless the heavens for
- 1:07:52whoever it was that introduced that to him, he did it had to
- 1:07:57have been by chance he goes to cash a check at the bank or
- 1:08:00something. And the, and the teller says,
- 1:08:02hey, by the way, dot dot dot, there's no way he, I don't know
- 1:08:07what happened. I don't know how he did it, but
- 1:08:08I think there's something really serendipitous kind of thing to
- 1:08:11happen. So I got a check for $100,000 at
- 1:08:1523 years old. I was about $30,000 in debt.
- 1:08:18I had, you know, my college thing.
- 1:08:22I hadn't paid for that. I wouldn't default on every loan
- 1:08:24I had in my life. I, I didn't have any ability to
- 1:08:26do it, but I was always like kind of rushing towards what's
- 1:08:29the next step because I know eventually I'm going to be able
- 1:08:31to pay it. I paid every debt I had, and I
- 1:08:36had gotten through the Grapevine a phone number for a woman who
- 1:08:44was renting a room in Yonville, California, named Susan Wickers.
- 1:08:51And so I rented a room from Susan.
- 1:08:55And even without having a job at French Laundry, I had rented the
- 1:08:59room. I had the capital to do so.
- 1:09:01And I'm like, do you have any contacts at the French Laundry?
- 1:09:06Because I already had the room. What year is this?
- 1:09:082004, 2004? So this is the French Laundry
- 1:09:12cookbooks come out? Yeah.
- 1:09:13Bouchon is ish, yeah, per SE was opening about per SE open at
- 1:09:22that time, around that time. World's fifty best number one
- 1:09:25restaurant Ish. Two years in a row, right?
- 1:09:27Yeah, yeah, yeah. They nailed that.
- 1:09:32Yeah. That's the era.
- 1:09:34Yeah. And that's when.
- 1:09:35You're there, right there. That's when you arrive.
- 1:09:37But I didn't get in yet, so I had to get a phone number to beg
- 1:09:42for a position. And basically what I did was
- 1:09:44much like the the Becoming a Chef book had told me to do
- 1:09:48apply yourself, show up, knock on the door.
- 1:09:52That's basically what I did. I was actually introduced
- 1:09:55through Susan to Devon. Now, who's the culinary Jedi?
- 1:10:00Yeah, everyone, not everyone knows Devin, but the people who
- 1:10:04know Devin love Devin. He's the best.
- 1:10:06And he hired me, you know, but it was later.
- 1:10:10He or or he allowed me. Thomas hired me, but Devin
- 1:10:14allowed me the opportunity to stash.
- 1:10:18So I finagled my way around this and that I stayed with Susan.
- 1:10:24I was able to get to the French Laundry.
- 1:10:27What is what is day One French Laundry for you when you walk
- 1:10:31in? What was that like?
- 1:10:32That that is at least. Because I'm, I'm assuming you've
- 1:10:34read the book. Yeah.
- 1:10:35You. You.
- 1:10:36You, you. You know the legend.
- 1:10:37Oh, yeah. Yeah.
- 1:10:38You're walking Every book, every article.
- 1:10:40Yeah. The soul of a chef.
- 1:10:41You know what? All the stories.
- 1:10:44You know everything. Yeah.
- 1:10:46And I'd heard all the. Yeah, folklore.
- 1:10:48Yeah, you're walking into the the Mecca.
- 1:10:52Bro, day one. Incredible, incredible,
- 1:10:57incredible. So, so one thing the building is
- 1:11:01the the historic building itself, built in 1893.
- 1:11:06Stone that came from the Napa River mortar, that's from the
- 1:11:10sand below your feet. Brilliant, beautiful, perfectly
- 1:11:16imperfect. So that's it's.
- 1:11:21Special At that point, they had built the kitchen onto the back.
- 1:11:26The original kitchen. When Don and Sally Schmidt ran,
- 1:11:29it was in the actual building. You must read 6 California
- 1:11:33kitchens that give you a good prequel.
- 1:11:36It's like this Star Wars thing. It's a prequel too.
- 1:11:38Yeah. OK.
- 1:11:39Thomas's generation of the restaurant.
- 1:11:42And then. And then there'll be another
- 1:11:44another one later at some point. But.
- 1:11:46But the copper door, you walk in the back door.
- 1:11:53It's copper, yeah. It's got a window and you open
- 1:11:57it. And I can remember the veal
- 1:11:58stock was on the stove and the way that we would run the
- 1:12:02extraction was very low, only high would it needed to be.
- 1:12:07So you didn't hear this industrial sound.
- 1:12:12And that sets the tone for everything.
- 1:12:15So the aroma of this beautiful veal stock with these fresh
- 1:12:19carrots and onions that had just been put into it and just this
- 1:12:23sweet smell, subtle calm wooden windows, carpets on the floor,
- 1:12:31professional stations, you know, all the equipment's on curbs.
- 1:12:35There's no casters, there's no feet, no stinky mop strings
- 1:12:40wrapped around things. You know, it was truly a
- 1:12:45professional kitchen with an it with a with a a residential feel
- 1:12:53incredible. But but, but I'd also dined
- 1:12:56there before that August the 4th August, August the 6th just use
- 1:13:00me was the 4th is another important day for me.
- 1:13:03August the 6th, 2004, I dined there.
- 1:13:07So I knew at that moment this is where I'm going.
- 1:13:09Let me tell you about that. Tell me I had lunch.
- 1:13:13I had lunch. I was able to finagle lunch
- 1:13:15somehow. Who are you eating with by
- 1:13:18yourself? No, with my girlfriend Hunter
- 1:13:21Emerson Holmes, incredible person.
- 1:13:24She's great. She's a Charlestonian and her
- 1:13:27family has deep roots in in in Edgefield, SC.
- 1:13:31She's an amazing person, so. You're 23 ish.
- 1:13:35Yeah, that. No, two days, two days before my
- 1:13:3924th birthday. Yeah, August 8th, it's my
- 1:13:43birthday. So I was with Hunter and we had,
- 1:13:46we were, we were there deciding if we wanted to move, see what
- 1:13:49we're going to do, whatever. It was going to be a really cool
- 1:13:53thing for us. It was a lot of great energy.
- 1:13:56You know, I had some capital to work with for the first time in
- 1:13:59my life, so I can make decisions.
- 1:14:03But after the meal, the meal was good.
- 1:14:08It wasn't relative. It was it was it was a great
- 1:14:12meal. Exceptional food, exceptional
- 1:14:15service, great wine. What made it for me was I was
- 1:14:20like, can I please see the kitchen?
- 1:14:21And there's a gentleman named Kevin Mackaway.
- 1:14:23Yeah. Who?
- 1:14:24Who's famous? Kevin's famous.
- 1:14:27Who took me down to the kitchen. He was my captain.
- 1:14:30And Thomas is there in between lunch and dinner services.
- 1:14:35And that dude is cutting Romano beans on the pass.
- 1:14:40And I can tell he's a little flustered.
- 1:14:42Nah, Nah, busy. He's he's a little perturbed, I
- 1:14:45should say, not floss or perturbed.
- 1:14:47He's he's banging somebody's meet some plus out because they
- 1:14:50can to get it done. Because I'm certain he at that
- 1:14:52point, he was the accountant, he was the human resources.
- 1:14:56He's, you know, greeting the guests.
- 1:14:58He's he's he's taking the guests for a walk through the garden
- 1:15:00and he he's cutting beans. The dude.
- 1:15:02Yeah. Yeah, the dude's got 30 hats,
- 1:15:04right? Yeah.
- 1:15:05And he's over here cutting Romano beans.
- 1:15:07But I just remember that. And Grant has a very similar
- 1:15:09story. About that, Yeah.
- 1:15:11With him sweeping the floor. Yeah.
- 1:15:12I'm here to see the chef. I am the chef.
- 1:15:13You're like, why are you sweeping the floor?
- 1:15:15Because I'm the chef. Yeah.
- 1:15:16Yeah, yeah, which is a very good lesson.
- 1:15:18And Thomas teaches those kind of lessons, right?
- 1:15:20But. And I'm just never forget that
- 1:15:24him cutting those Romano beans and he took the time and he laid
- 1:15:27his knife down and, you know, he says to me, how was lunch chef?
- 1:15:31And I said it was beautiful. Thank you so much.
- 1:15:35He said, I hear that you may come work with us soon.
- 1:15:37I'm working on it. That's what I said.
- 1:15:40And I was like so shy. And so I was a kid, you know,
- 1:15:44and and and I went about my way. I didn't want to keep him, you
- 1:15:47know, but he was AG total G man, you know, like.
- 1:15:51I had met him roughly maybe the year before.
- 1:15:54Yeah. And we, we, I sent very similar
- 1:15:56experience. I I ate dinner there.
- 1:15:58I, I I'll maybe in the show, I'll put up a photo of me
- 1:16:01standing in my suit in front of the sign.
- 1:16:04The French Laundry. Was it granddad's suit?
- 1:16:05Yeah. It was very too big.
- 1:16:07Right. We go, we go, we go, and we eat.
- 1:16:11And we, we had talked to Thomas before dinner and then he said,
- 1:16:15I'll come and eat. And then I was with a bunch of
- 1:16:17chefs. And then afterwards, we came
- 1:16:19into the kitchen, you know, kind of like where the service
- 1:16:22station is right there. Yeah.
- 1:16:24Yeah. And, you know, we're all chefs.
- 1:16:26There's like five of us there. And he comes up is like, how was
- 1:16:30dinner? Great chef.
- 1:16:31Like, we don't have anything. It's like, it's awkward silence.
- 1:16:34We got nothing to say. What do we say to the chef?
- 1:16:36Yeah, It's great. Great experience.
- 1:16:38Yeah. Yeah, so that was my prequel to
- 1:16:41starting. Yeah, so I already had been.
- 1:16:46What do you say? Proverbially roofied?
- 1:16:52Yeah, I was in love at that. Point like I'm like, this is my
- 1:16:56thing, like this is it, man, I love this.
- 1:16:59But so those are those the aromas.
- 1:17:01Were one thing and I remember that I'll never forget that like
- 1:17:05that, that aroma of that stock just simmering just beautiful.
- 1:17:09And we would take the pigs heads and tie them on the handle and
- 1:17:12we would braise the pigs head in the stock that reduced overnight
- 1:17:16yeah. Or you know that was like a it's
- 1:17:18like of course for the for the gelatin you'd braise the pig
- 1:17:21head in the in the in the Beal stock that's cooking overnight.
- 1:17:25Yeah, OK, just these things. But it was like, not because you
- 1:17:27have this thing, this cooking. Yeah, it was.
- 1:17:30It was also rudimentary. Yeah, it was also rudimentary.
- 1:17:33It was beautiful cookery. It was this classic cookery.
- 1:17:37Yeah. You have this stock simmering.
- 1:17:41You don't need to turn the oven on.
- 1:17:43Tie. We would tie the torchon.
- 1:17:45Yeah. Put it in, let it simmer
- 1:17:48overnight. Bring it the next morning.
- 1:17:51Re torque it. Yeah.
- 1:17:53Chill it, you know, but there's a lot of those little things,
- 1:17:56but that's a romance of cookery, right?
- 1:17:58Yeah. So that to me that's what I
- 1:17:59love. I love that.
- 1:18:01But so then but so that day, let me I I apologize.
- 1:18:04I I Southern boy I get I'm going to get out on start talking too
- 1:18:08much. I'm going to get so that.
- 1:18:10Day we go around, and so my job that day was to be the comedy of
- 1:18:14the of the Pausonier, and I was going to be the comedy of the
- 1:18:18Pausonier for the next three months.
- 1:18:20That was my commitment to the restaurant and I go in and my
- 1:18:26job is to make the poem maxims, which is like, not easy.
- 1:18:34For people that don't know, can you explain the process of what
- 1:18:36that is so they know how not easy it is?
- 1:18:38Yeah, well, today is very different than then, and there's
- 1:18:41been many iterations over the years.
- 1:18:43And that's what I love about cooking is the evolution and the
- 1:18:47the genesis and the you know, what era we how do we do it
- 1:18:51then? You know, and Elba Lee does a
- 1:18:52lot of that. If you look at their old books
- 1:18:55version, you know, 2002, right, You know, and it's like that one
- 1:19:00is that one. But so that era, it was probably
- 1:19:06the most difficult era to make them and not my favorite from a
- 1:19:11flavor perspective, but visually was striking.
- 1:19:14What we would do was we would take candy baked potatoes and
- 1:19:19slice them on a machine slicer, punch them with a 50mm punch and
- 1:19:25I believe there were probably about 15 punches per.
- 1:19:35So on a sill pad, on a full size sill pad, you could probably get
- 1:19:395, maybe 6, probably 5 if I think about it per we need 60.
- 1:19:49Arduous process, man, just impossible.
- 1:19:52And I never made them. So then you would take them the
- 1:19:54raw punches which are oxidizing rapidly and you would, you would
- 1:19:58brush the sill pass with clarified butter.
- 1:20:02And it talks about this in the book, but it's not different in
- 1:20:04the book. The original book, the Under
- 1:20:07Pressure book, has a great palmaxine.
- 1:20:09And then there's an image of the current Palmac scene in the TfL
- 1:20:13per Se book. That is the.
- 1:20:15The one that's the one took 20 years for me to work on it from
- 1:20:19my day one, yeah. It was a long time, still
- 1:20:23mastering. Every.
- 1:20:23Yeah, yeah, you know what I mean.
- 1:20:25It takes some time, but so but so.
- 1:20:28And you would lay methodically layout the potatoes, and then
- 1:20:32you would brush the top layer. So you brush the sill pat,
- 1:20:35season the sill pat, brush the top sill pat, season the sill
- 1:20:39pat. And then you would lay them out
- 1:20:40and you would sandwich it and then slow bake them.
- 1:20:43But we didn't have convection ovens.
- 1:20:45We did not have rationales. We did.
- 1:20:47Those tools didn't exist for us. Then we're cooking in still
- 1:20:52ovens. Everything was cooked in still
- 1:20:54ovens, which is, you know, is a challenge.
- 1:20:58I'd rather simmer on top, you know, put a diffuser under it,
- 1:21:01simmer on top. I mean, it's still of it, it's
- 1:21:03just not good. So it probably took me 5 hours.
- 1:21:10If you needed 60, how many would you make?
- 1:21:14I'm sure you lost a portion, a percentage.
- 1:21:16Yeah, because I had to figure out that they're burning around
- 1:21:18the sides. And then once they set, you have
- 1:21:20to flip them and you have to, like, it took me a while to
- 1:21:24figure out. Just flip the whole soap out,
- 1:21:25you know, or rotate the fan. And, you know, it's just, it was
- 1:21:28a thing. I had no clue because I'd never
- 1:21:30cooked something like that in my life.
- 1:21:31So I probably made 180 and it didn't matter.
- 1:21:37Just make that perfectly. This is the expectation.
- 1:21:41And I remember a dear friend of mine to this day, Jiu jitsu guy.
- 1:21:47Good, good dude. Walter Abrams, Columbia dude
- 1:21:54from South Florida, just tough as nails, good guy.
- 1:22:00He is a chef to party in the Faucina station.
- 1:22:03And I had barely made enough. I don't even know.
- 1:22:07They're ordering for overages. I don't know.
- 1:22:08I have no clue what's happening at this point.
- 1:22:11And he comes in and he grabs 1. He snapped in half and he eats
- 1:22:15it. And he's like, we need to work
- 1:22:19on this. And it was like, it was like,
- 1:22:22you know, I'm like, God, I don't have 49 now.
- 1:22:25Yeah, I already, I already shorted you 10, you know, But
- 1:22:30but it all worked out and we all become good friends at some
- 1:22:32point, you know, it was it was. That that was day one.
- 1:22:37Yeah, that was day one and day 2 through what, three, 350 days a
- 1:22:47year for for 20 years, you know? Yeah.
- 1:22:49What is that? The year to mask it?
- 1:22:50Yeah, Yeah. I don't know.
- 1:22:52A lot of days, yeah. We're all very exhilarating.
- 1:22:56Yeah, yeah. Is there a day that stands out
- 1:22:58more than any? I'm sure there's a lot of those,
- 1:23:01but is there, is there a day that you can share with us that
- 1:23:03like really stands out? Well, so there's OK.
- 1:23:07Well, well, we need to zoom out a bit.
- 1:23:10So in my career, French Laundry slash per SE, there were 4
- 1:23:14fundamental pivots. So it's like, how can you work
- 1:23:18at 1 restaurant for 20 years? Well, I had 50 jobs.
- 1:23:23You know, I had 50 jobs. I had a lot of goals.
- 1:23:26So each one of those jobs and each one of those goals had
- 1:23:29those pivotable pivotal moments and, and, and that were able to
- 1:23:34hit those, it was those levels. And, and you know, so my first
- 1:23:39two years, so I went from comedy to pastry.
- 1:23:42Not a lot of people know that there was a, something happened
- 1:23:46on pastry. Someone was not able to come to
- 1:23:47work ever again. And I worked pastry for two
- 1:23:53months. So I mentioned that the other
- 1:23:55day, best thing ever happened because I had two months of
- 1:23:59front row seats to the show where all I had to do was scoop
- 1:24:03ice cream. My responsibility was make some
- 1:24:05cookies and scoop ice cream. Not that it was that simple, but
- 1:24:07my responsibility was that simple.
- 1:24:09The team, which I was not a pastry guy.
- 1:24:12I had some pastry experience, but so I got to watch service.
- 1:24:15Yeah. So I had front front row seats
- 1:24:17to that service and that was incredible.
- 1:24:20And so then Thomas comes to me about two months later and he
- 1:24:26says, hey, do you know you have you have good experience?
- 1:24:30Do you think you can butcher? Yeah.
- 1:24:34I'm like, yeah, yeah, I could cut some meat, no problem.
- 1:24:37I got this. Got this.
- 1:24:40Welcome to the pain train, my friend.
- 1:24:42And and so if you if you think about that, if you you know, as
- 1:24:47chefs, we all can French of the rock of lamb.
- 1:24:51We could all probably cut a lamb side of a couple different ways.
- 1:24:55We can all probably cut a rabbit.
- 1:24:59But can you do consistently for time amongst everything else you
- 1:25:07have to do consistently? Boom, boom, boom.
- 1:25:11It's a Pymdis. Yeah.
- 1:25:15Please excuse my dear Aunt Sally.
- 1:25:16The the order of operations. Yeah, we talked about that the
- 1:25:19other day. Yeah.
- 1:25:20So. Please excuse my dear Aunt Sally
- 1:25:27so parentheses. Exponents, division, arithmetic.
- 1:25:32Nope. No, wait, dear aunt.
- 1:25:34Yeah. Division arithmetic.
- 1:25:36Multiplication, subtraction. Addition, subtraction.
- 1:25:40Yeah, like that, right? Yeah.
- 1:25:42But we talked about how it's the order of operations when you
- 1:25:45work. Too correct.
- 1:25:46It's about having a system, yeah, to work from here to
- 1:25:49there, yeah, left to right, right to left, left to right,
- 1:25:51right to left, so on and so. Forth, yeah, yeah.
- 1:25:54But that's good one. You have to do one thing first
- 1:25:56before you get to Step 2, correct, Right?
- 1:25:57Correct staging, right? Like.
- 1:26:00Everything is staging and like, how do you do it?
- 1:26:02And at that point, we're butchering in a hot kitchen and
- 1:26:05very hot kitchen, open windows, you can smell the beautiful
- 1:26:08flowers. You can hear the birds.
- 1:26:11It was like, it was like Willy Wonka, man.
- 1:26:13Yeah, it was a trip. It was great.
- 1:26:16But so that was impactful. And I think that everything that
- 1:26:19I did throughout that position set me up for everything else
- 1:26:22for the rest of my life. Yeah.
- 1:26:23That was the most in my career that that cutting me at the
- 1:26:29French Laundry was the most impactful position I've ever had
- 1:26:34in my life to that point. That served me better throughout
- 1:26:39my life, and it was a lot because the structure of the
- 1:26:43expectations, not the structure of the program.
- 1:26:47I developed the structure for the program.
- 1:26:49And that was with blessing from Thomas because it hadn't
- 1:26:55necessarily been set up yet, but he allowed me the ability to use
- 1:27:01the resources that we had to do that.
- 1:27:04And that's a very important thing about Thomas, is that, you
- 1:27:07know, I worked with Thomas for 20 years.
- 1:27:11I did not cook with him a lot. I.
- 1:27:19Didn't see. Him cook.
- 1:27:21A lot it wasn't. About that, it was a much more
- 1:27:25important thing that he provided for us.
- 1:27:28He would definitely come through and throw down a demo for Anya
- 1:27:30Lodi or and tell some stories and there would be some things
- 1:27:33like that. It wasn't that he wasn't present
- 1:27:35or it's not that. That's not a negative thing that
- 1:27:37I'm saying what he provided for us.
- 1:27:39And if you think about it that I mean, you have per SE French
- 1:27:42Laundry that the menu changes every single day.
- 1:27:46There's there's a minimal approval process for recipes.
- 1:27:50There's a minimal approval process for menus.
- 1:27:53If minimal, if none actually the the weights put on the shoulders
- 1:27:57of the chef, the cuisines in the sushi executive sous chefs.
- 1:28:02It's not Thomas is not approving.
- 1:28:04Recipes he'll. Taste food he will definitely
- 1:28:07observe when he's there he's not always there he doesn't see
- 1:28:10everything all the time So what he.
- 1:28:12Was able to. Do and what influences me
- 1:28:14greatly today is he developed philosophy of cooking and we
- 1:28:20know that from the essays in the first book.
- 1:28:23All of the essays in the first book are the initial beginnings
- 1:28:28of the philosophy, the importance of staff meal, right,
- 1:28:31the importance of rabbits. Those things teach us lessons.
- 1:28:35And once you buy into those lessons, you're for you must buy
- 1:28:39into those lessons. It's not, it's a non negotiable.
- 1:28:41You can't deny the staff meal needs to be good for your team.
- 1:28:45You cannot deny that once you kill that rabbit, you must serve
- 1:28:49that rabbit. You're you're a hack if you
- 1:28:51don't right? Or what we say, what's the old
- 1:28:53thing? The, the, the schoemacher,
- 1:28:55right. Like that.
- 1:28:55You can't, you can't like you just can't do that and.
- 1:28:58And so he provided. Financial resources for us
- 1:29:03budgetary resources for for China for product Never once
- 1:29:10have I ever. Bartered went back.
- 1:29:18And forth, what's the word negotiated price for a product?
- 1:29:23First thing I do, somebody brings me something that's
- 1:29:25compelling. How consistently can you give it
- 1:29:29to me? OK, that's that's that's
- 1:29:32important. Where's it from?
- 1:29:35Who's it from? How consistently can you give it
- 1:29:37to me? Then how much does it cost?
- 1:29:41OK, so there's a story that Thomas tells about the. 80s When
- 1:29:47Raquel closed, there was a. Big crash.
- 1:29:49In the 80s stock market crash, it really crumbled a lot of
- 1:29:52things there. And there was a chef that had a
- 1:29:55bakery and the chef had the best croissants in New York City.
- 1:30:00He used the best European butter, had the best flour,
- 1:30:05flour to sell like whatever and you know which flutter cell is
- 1:30:07easy for us today, but back then.
- 1:30:09It was some special right? So he made the.
- 1:30:11Best croissants in the city? There's a stock market crash.
- 1:30:17So what did he do? Did he did he compromise the
- 1:30:20integrity of his ingredients? He has to have the same price or
- 1:30:25maybe even more at that point. He did not compromise the
- 1:30:29integrity ingredients. He reduced the size of his
- 1:30:32croissant by 10%. That's brilliant.
- 1:30:36So that's philosophy. Doesn't that say a lot?
- 1:30:40I would love to serve this beef to all my guests.
- 1:30:42But you know what? I can't serve 6 oz.
- 1:30:45But I can serve 5 oz. And it's exceptional.
- 1:30:48They'll enjoy it if I guess once more we'll give them more.
- 1:30:53But that's one out of 25. Or whatever.
- 1:30:55So those those kind of lessons that we.
- 1:30:58Learned from Thomas. We're so much more important
- 1:31:00than a border leis recipe. Yeah, it's irrelevant.
- 1:31:04The borderline is irrelevant. He he was shaping minds and
- 1:31:06philosophies. Yeah.
- 1:31:07Which? Which?
- 1:31:08I agree with, by the way, 100% that is.
- 1:31:12And I use Thomas a lot as as an example on the podcast because
- 1:31:16I'll say people like Thomas or Renee or Ferran operate as the
- 1:31:19exception of the rule because of how they think.
- 1:31:22That's what makes them great. That's why.
- 1:31:24That's why he is who he is and Ferrans who he is and Bokus or
- 1:31:27whoever is that they operate intellectually, philosophically.
- 1:31:33Differently from everyone. Else and that's what makes them
- 1:31:35exceptional. I agree.
- 1:31:37I agree. Yeah, it's not.
- 1:31:39About dollars and cents. And that, and that's what, you
- 1:31:41know, in my company today when I work with people, the minute
- 1:31:45they start trying to split pennies, I already know that
- 1:31:48this is probably not going to be a good conversation.
- 1:31:49It's not going to work out for me because I manage, I manage
- 1:31:52finances and resources with my knife, with how I sell things,
- 1:31:56with how I right menus, how how you.
- 1:32:01How do you utilize your trimmings?
- 1:32:03You know, Seth's famous saying was they used to call Seth the
- 1:32:07accountant with the butcher's knife and he would say buy it
- 1:32:10once, sell it thrice. That was one thing.
- 1:32:14And so that resonates, buy one, sell it thrice.
- 1:32:16But meaning you're using 100% of your trimmings.
- 1:32:18And the other thing he would say?
- 1:32:20Is my trash cans are very light around here.
- 1:32:24We didn't waste, we didn't squander, and that's the same.
- 1:32:26Thing about the story of rabbits.
- 1:32:29Do not squander the life if you had to.
- 1:32:31If you had to snatch that rabbit out with your hand, slit his.
- 1:32:39Throat, break his neck, whatever, kill it.
- 1:32:42Are you going to let any of it go to waste?
- 1:32:45That liver had better be in Pate my friend.
- 1:32:47Those shoulders had better be soft and braised.
- 1:32:50That saddle had better be cooked over the fire on the Newt and
- 1:32:53just serve to just this beautiful au Pont, you know,
- 1:32:55that's, you know, braise the legs and cream and serve with
- 1:32:58noodles. Make the most out of that animal
- 1:33:02that's possible. I want to ask what was it like?
- 1:33:07The day that you found out you were going to be the chef,
- 1:33:11that's that's a really. Really good one.
- 1:33:13I can almost remember the date, it was probably October of of.
- 1:33:1920. 12 or so well, so Thomas is is very good at at checking in
- 1:33:29with the upper level leadership. You know, at sometimes.
- 1:33:32Then this is definitely not a negative thing I'm saying about
- 1:33:34him at all. If he's got 50 chefs at Per SE,
- 1:33:37he's got 50 chefs at at French Laundry, including Bouchon and
- 1:33:40everywhere else that he has. Well, yeah, I'm speaking, yeah.
- 1:33:43So you can see me egotistically only speaking from.
- 1:33:45Finite, but yeah, but those other restaurants as well.
- 1:33:47He's got a. 1000 chefs Army among amongst other employees
- 1:33:51big job yeah huge yeah so he's definitely he's he's the upper
- 1:33:56level leadership members. He is very he's very good with
- 1:34:04checking in on yeah. What are your plans?
- 1:34:06What are your goals? What are your you know where do
- 1:34:10you want to be in one year? Where do you want to be in five
- 1:34:13years and I told him every single time when I was in New
- 1:34:16York City I mean at this point I think I had two children that
- 1:34:20were born in Manhattan. You know I had developed a.
- 1:34:25Family and we were living. Our best lives.
- 1:34:27But I always said I want to be the chef of French Laundry.
- 1:34:33Take Me Home, Take Me Home. That's what I was talking about.
- 1:34:37I'm just waiting for you, man. Like let me know because I'm
- 1:34:40ready. And while I'm waiting, I'm
- 1:34:44developing my skill. And honestly, I was able to
- 1:34:47develop it out kind of outside of his, his direct eye, which
- 1:34:53was very powerful because you know when the cats are away, the
- 1:34:56mice will play. And if you're responsible mice,
- 1:34:58you come up with some really good stuff.
- 1:35:00My goal was always to respect the business, respect the guest,
- 1:35:02respect the team. It was never egotistical respect
- 1:35:06to animals, but respect to product.
- 1:35:08Be responsible. I want to run a great business,
- 1:35:12so I had amassed a very. Very.
- 1:35:16Good skill set and it was evident at some point that
- 1:35:19someone was going to become the next chef.
- 1:35:21Timothy had decided that he wanted to leave.
- 1:35:23And I said, look, it's this is my opportunity.
- 1:35:27And it would definitely was not an ultimatum, but it's like, if
- 1:35:30it's not here, I need to go elsewhere.
- 1:35:34And Thomas, I don't even know if we had that conversation, but it
- 1:35:39was evident. I'd kind of started to branch
- 1:35:41out a little bit and have conversations with people.
- 1:35:43And he knew. I discussed it with him
- 1:35:44beforehand. And he's like, no, you know
- 1:35:48what? I think it's time for you to
- 1:35:49come home. Yeah.
- 1:35:51And it was I left that meeting like cloud 9.
- 1:35:57I was like a, a Sultan on a flying carpet, dude.
- 1:36:00And I'm just like going through the sky, like I'm just living my
- 1:36:02best life. And I remember going home and,
- 1:36:05and speaking with my wife. It was just like, we're going
- 1:36:08home. She's actually from Yellville.
- 1:36:11So or she, her, her, her mother lives in Yellville.
- 1:36:16She's from. Napa, but.
- 1:36:18It was incredible. It was incredible because we get
- 1:36:22to take the grandkids home. We get to take, we get, we're
- 1:36:24going home, man, we're going home.
- 1:36:26It's happening. Yeah.
- 1:36:28You know, it was great, really great.
- 1:36:30So you're the chef now for the next 13.
- 1:36:32Years and French Laundry towards the end.
- 1:36:36Also French Laundry per SE, correct?
- 1:36:38What was the next 13 years like? Well, you know, it was.
- 1:36:42It was. A lot.
- 1:36:43More mentorship than cooking. And you know, I don't, I won't
- 1:36:47go into a lot of crazy details about, you know, I, I could, we
- 1:36:50can talk for five hours about the stories, but I, I think
- 1:36:53really I transitioned from being, from being, you know,
- 1:36:59line chef, sous chef. Executive sous Chef.
- 1:37:02Chef, the cuisine, now everything is my responsibility.
- 1:37:05So I put on my business hats and I need to run the teams like,
- 1:37:12like I'm going to run the business and make them
- 1:37:15successful. My, my number one priority was
- 1:37:17to ensure that all of my team members at all times, regardless
- 1:37:21of rank, were successful and fulfilled in their positions.
- 1:37:25Of course, it did not always happen.
- 1:37:27And if, and you know, we went through the, that was when we
- 1:37:31went into the kitchen. They were very, there were some
- 1:37:33very impactful members of, of the team there into the old
- 1:37:37kitchen. Elliott Bell who who was
- 1:37:40incredible, Jose Coleen, Junior Joe Papage, Mike Wallace, there
- 1:37:45were a lot of member Johnny Music County, a lot of really
- 1:37:48good members who helped support me through that as we molded
- 1:37:51that business model into where we needed to move forward to do
- 1:37:56the new kitchen. We broke ground of the new
- 1:37:59kitchen I think at the end of 2013 ish.
- 1:38:05Go check the calendar. And then we, and then we
- 1:38:09developed a $15 million kitchen. That was an amazing experience.
- 1:38:13I learned so much about design, layout, floor sinks and
- 1:38:20convenience outlets and, and you know, like electric load and all
- 1:38:24those things. But so, but really it was more
- 1:38:26about developing teams. And I think the most important
- 1:38:29thing that I learned in that process was working with the
- 1:38:32gardens. And I can speak for hours about
- 1:38:35that. That is truly the philosophy of
- 1:38:37my cuisine, is working with Mother Nature and being a
- 1:38:39conduit for the ingredient from the ground, respecting the
- 1:38:43farmer, taking it to the kitchen and processing it respectfully,
- 1:38:48preserving natural flavor and serving it to the guests in a
- 1:38:51way that they can recognize. That is the philosophy of my
- 1:38:54cuisine. That is it.
- 1:38:55And of course, the philosophy that I've learned from Thomas.
- 1:38:57But, you know, but over that time, that's kind of how it all
- 1:39:01wraps up And and at some point, actually, I had worked myself
- 1:39:07out of position and it became evident it was time for me to
- 1:39:12move on. The my job was done.
- 1:39:19Next chapter. Next chapter, baby.
- 1:39:21Yeah. You know that's.
- 1:39:22It yeah, if if. If, if, if, if I've done my work
- 1:39:26and my team is there to do it. Yeah.
- 1:39:28What what's left for me is to move forward.
- 1:39:30There's like a Taoist expression.
- 1:39:32It's. Allowed to in the Dow dejing, it
- 1:39:35says when the masters work is done, he could look back and the
- 1:39:39people will say amazing. We did it ourselves.
- 1:39:42Exactly right. Exactly.
- 1:39:44And we did it on our own. Yeah.
- 1:39:45Yeah, yeah. It's like the the bump, the the,
- 1:39:48the guides on the when you go bowling.
- 1:39:49Yeah, yeah, I just just went in every time.
- 1:39:52Yeah, yeah, yeah. No guides necessary.
- 1:39:54Yeah. You know, I wanna, I wanna talk
- 1:39:57about the book really quick. I'm, I'm thinking back which
- 1:40:00one? My book and your book, The
- 1:40:03French Laundry Person, but also the first one I wrote.
- 1:40:05Yeah, Yeah. So the first book that I wrote.
- 1:40:08This is like a little. Easter egg for people that have
- 1:40:11the book or you know, follow chef's PSA and have been for a
- 1:40:13while. Is there's a there's a chef's
- 1:40:17PSA in the original red Book how not to be the biggest idiot in
- 1:40:20the kitchen. So don't mix your salt and
- 1:40:22pepper. And in there it's there's a
- 1:40:25little narrative as to why not to do it.
- 1:40:27And then at the end of it, I say, but a great chef once told
- 1:40:32me the most fun you'll have is working in those kitchens where
- 1:40:34you mix your salt and pepper. Yes, Sir.
- 1:40:36I never said who that who said that to you?
- 1:40:38But for people listening, that was you.
- 1:40:39That was you. You told me that years ago.
- 1:40:41And I was like, yeah, OK, that's funny.
- 1:40:43It was a good time. It was a good time, right?
- 1:40:45It was a good time. You know, those are, that's the
- 1:40:47most fun you'll have in those kitchens where you're mixing the
- 1:40:49salt and pepper and seasoning everything over the plancha.
- 1:40:51Like yeah, season the plancha before you lay the chair down,
- 1:40:54right? For sure.
- 1:40:57But I remember we talked years ago.
- 1:40:59This is. Probably before the per SE
- 1:41:01French Laundry came came out the book and and we had a long
- 1:41:05conversation about liaisons and I remember you talking about
- 1:41:08Roux and really, I don't want to say geeking out, but like you,
- 1:41:11you were blowing my mind back then when you were talking about
- 1:41:13Roux and you there's so much. I mean, we could talk about the
- 1:41:17book in general. And by the way, I would say that
- 1:41:19The French Laundry cookbook changed everyone's lives, but
- 1:41:23the new one, The French Laundry. Per SE, I felt like for.
- 1:41:26Me, it's even better for me. And there's so much updated
- 1:41:30stories in there about the fish brining and you know, you talk
- 1:41:34about that and there's also a lot of things that when the book
- 1:41:39came out, based on our conversation, then also when the
- 1:41:42book came out, I took like 5 things, immediately implemented
- 1:41:44them in the kitchen. It was like, yeah, the pre high.
- 1:41:46That was like, OK, great. There it is.
- 1:41:48What is it, 6% or something? 2 percent, 2%, Yeah, there was
- 1:41:52the veg Blanc. Yeah, right.
- 1:41:53I was like, OK, we're doing this.
- 1:41:54So we're cooking our artichokes in it or yeah, turnips or
- 1:41:57whatever. It works.
- 1:41:58It works. It was great.
- 1:41:59Yeah. And the fish brining, the whole,
- 1:42:01the whole story on fish brining, I immediately implemented that
- 1:42:06because we weren't brining all our fish before that.
- 1:42:08So I said this is great starting today, this is what we're doing.
- 1:42:11Yeah. And so it was the pre high, the
- 1:42:14fish brining there was a lot, but those were like the three
- 1:42:17biggest ones that after I read the book, I called all the chefs
- 1:42:20in the office and said, OK, here's the new stand.
- 1:42:22Start to work on this. Yeah, right away.
- 1:42:24Yeah, we don't. What do we do with it?
- 1:42:25Like, don't worry about. We'll we'll figure it out.
- 1:42:27Yeah. Jacob, my chef, the cuisine at
- 1:42:29the time. I think you know Jacob.
- 1:42:30Yeah, he's a good cook. Right away.
- 1:42:32He's like, yeah, I knew about pre.
- 1:42:33I was like, why the fuck didn't you say anything?
- 1:42:34You've known about this this whole time.
- 1:42:36Waited for me to read the book. Yeah, but it was a great book.
- 1:42:39And even the the updated big pot blanching.
- 1:42:43Yeah, right. So what is that the salt in
- 1:42:45there now? It's like it's officially
- 1:42:46measured percentage. Yeah.
- 1:42:48And also in the ice bath. Yeah.
- 1:42:50Yeah. Yeah, it's great.
- 1:42:51And it and it's such a great. Revision, slash, update to the
- 1:42:55to the original. So if people don't have it,
- 1:42:57evolution, yeah, it's great. It's a great book.
- 1:42:59Yeah, but while we wrap up, I mean, we we we need to do a part
- 1:43:04too. I agree.
- 1:43:05I agree. Yeah, we kind of dropped off.
- 1:43:07Yeah, we got some more. This is great, but the last
- 1:43:10question I'll ask you if you had a Mount Rushmore.
- 1:43:12Of chefs out there and. But I'm gonna change it up
- 1:43:15because I always ask people there Mount Rushmore, I want to
- 1:43:16change it up a little bit on you.
- 1:43:17Yeah, if you had to give people that, so many people came
- 1:43:20through your kitchen that you might not be on Mount Rushmore
- 1:43:24today. But you see them.
- 1:43:26Soon to be on the Mount Rushmore.
- 1:43:27So if you had to give 2 that you think are on Mount Rushmore and
- 1:43:30two that you think will be on Mount Rushmore, OK, that helps.
- 1:43:33That helps me because there's some individuals.
- 1:43:35Who may not even still be cooking.
- 1:43:37Yeah. Who are the best cooks I've ever
- 1:43:38worked with? Yeah, But so Mount Rushmore and.
- 1:43:42And this only has to do only has to do with their technical
- 1:43:49ability, their sensibility philosophy and their creativity.
- 1:43:56The best chefs that I've ever worked with in my life was from
- 1:44:01that perspective have will have to be Eli Kaime.
- 1:44:09Number. Number one.
- 1:44:10And and this is all from the same.
- 1:44:12Camp, we're always talking about this is TfL stuff because we're
- 1:44:14in the same the same realm. Eli Kaime is, is probably the
- 1:44:20most creative, artistic person I've ever, ever, ever ever
- 1:44:24worked with. Paul Lebrandt, the king, the
- 1:44:31king of creativity and emotion. Yeah, I freaking love Paul.
- 1:44:38He's the best. He's so good, so creative,
- 1:44:43charismatic, just a good dude. So Eli Paul and I think they
- 1:44:48would be the kind of godfathers. Yeah, in that.
- 1:44:52And then there's a gentleman named Tyler Vorse, Who who who's
- 1:44:56kind of. On the outskirts.
- 1:44:58Right now he's he's out there incredibly creative,
- 1:45:04disciplined, the most bad ass line cook you've ever, ever
- 1:45:09worked with. The dude is a machine, but he's
- 1:45:11also very creative. And then a friend of ours, the
- 1:45:18probably most artistic person I've ever worked with is Matthew
- 1:45:21Peters. Yeah.
- 1:45:23Peters is G Yeah, yes, yeah. But I mean, you know, it's, it's
- 1:45:274 is. Hard, hard to do.
- 1:45:29Yeah. So many.
- 1:45:30Yeah. And you just kind of hit me.
- 1:45:31I hadn't really thought about it, but.
- 1:45:33But. But there's a few that in my
- 1:45:35heart, they're like deer. And so if my.
- 1:45:38My Mia Keepo out there. I love you guys.
- 1:45:41I'm sorry if I I love all of you the same.
- 1:45:44Yeah. You know, my guys are with me.
- 1:45:46My excuse? Me, not guys.
- 1:45:47My my team, that's with me. Guys, guys all all around, they
- 1:45:51know I love them. They they know I love them.
- 1:45:55We we have. Done so much good work together.
- 1:45:58I'm ego free in the kitchen and we we, there's no hierarchy.
- 1:46:02Last question, Chef, yes. Where can people find you?
- 1:46:07That's easy. Franklin.
- 1:46:10Tennessee. Franklin, TN Instagram page.
- 1:46:13Chef David Breeden at Instagram. I've got, you know, my little.
- 1:46:17Company, we'll talk about that on on phase two, I guess.
- 1:46:19Yeah, we'll have to do Part 2. Yeah.
- 1:46:21david@guestdrivenhospitality.com. Awesome brother.
- 1:46:25Yeah. It's good to see you.
- 1:46:26It's been Yeah, I know. Yeah, it's been as.
- 1:46:28Long as this was fun, all right. Good deal.
- 1:46:30Well, I hope you enjoyed that. Episode if you want to support
- 1:46:32the show. If you're watching on YouTube,
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- 1:46:38leave 5 stars. It's a five star podcast.
- 1:46:40I'm a five star man. If you want to get chef brains,
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- 1:46:59We'll see you next week at the Porno Music No small Andre in
- 1:47:03the kitchen. Mix it.
- 1:47:04Drop the. Chef Dallas, No fiction stirring
- 1:47:06up the beats.