Latest / New Worlder / Episode #92: Gabriela Perdomo
Transcript
- 0:00SPEAKER_00: This is the New Worlder Podcast and I am one of your hosts, Nicholas Gill.
- 0:05SPEAKER_00: Co-host Juliana Duque will be joining shortly.
- 0:09SPEAKER_00: Today we are speaking with Gabriela Perdomo,
- 0:12SPEAKER_00: who is the owner of the tortilleria and restaurant El Comalote in Antigua,
- 0:18SPEAKER_00: Guatemala.
- 0:19SPEAKER_00: More than just a place to buy tortillas and eat delicious things with corn masa,
- 0:24SPEAKER_00: the almost entirely female-run El Comalote is a project that is helping resurrect
- 0:31SPEAKER_00: the links between Criollo corn and consumers in urban parts of Guatemala.
- 0:36SPEAKER_00: Like in Mexico,
- 0:37SPEAKER_00: as well as other neighboring countries,
- 0:40SPEAKER_00: the majority of tortillas consumed are made from industrial corn.
- 0:45SPEAKER_00: Gabby explains how the technique of making tortillas by hand remains dominant in
- 0:49SPEAKER_00: the country,
- 0:50SPEAKER_00: but the choice of corn has changed drastically in recent decades.
- 0:54SPEAKER_00: There has been a shift away from the more difficult to grow native varieties
- 0:59SPEAKER_00: towards the varieties that all look the same,
- 1:02SPEAKER_00: grow extremely fast,
- 1:03SPEAKER_00: and produce massive quantities.
- 1:06SPEAKER_00: However, these varieties are less nutritious and often need pesticides and other chemicals to survive.
- 1:13SPEAKER_00: Since El Comalote opened in 2021,
- 1:16SPEAKER_00: they have helped open the eyes of urban consumers and chefs in the country to the
- 1:21SPEAKER_00: flavor of heirloom corn.
- 1:23SPEAKER_00: I've been there a couple of times now and tasting these thick,
- 1:26SPEAKER_00: brightly colored tortillas,
- 1:28SPEAKER_00: reds,
- 1:29SPEAKER_00: greens,
- 1:30SPEAKER_00: oranges,
- 1:30SPEAKER_00: blues,
- 1:31SPEAKER_00: blacks,
- 1:32SPEAKER_00: shows how perfect of a food a great tortilla can be.
- 1:36SPEAKER_00: You really don't need much else.
- 1:38SPEAKER_00: They also make other masa-derived foods like tamales,
- 1:41SPEAKER_00: cambrayes,
- 1:42SPEAKER_00: chicha,
- 1:43SPEAKER_00: chuchitos,
- 1:44SPEAKER_00: and many other things.
- 1:46SPEAKER_00: What's important from this interview is to understand how Gabby has been able to do this.
- 1:51SPEAKER_00: More than just getting the very best corn and paying farmers the highest prices,
- 1:55SPEAKER_00: she has listened to indigenous farmers and the communities that she works with to
- 2:00SPEAKER_00: try and understand their needs and concerns.
- 2:02SPEAKER_00: There's a really great documentary that just came out.
- 2:05SPEAKER_00: It's about corn in Guatemala featuring Gabby and her work at El Comalote alongside
- 2:10SPEAKER_00: Deborah Fadul of the restaurant De Acá in Guatemala City.
- 2:14SPEAKER_00: It's called World Eats Bread, Tortillas in Guatemala.
- 2:17SPEAKER_00: It's a Nat Geo documentary and you can watch it on Disney+.
- 2:21SPEAKER_00: I highly recommend it if you are interested in what Gabby has to say.
- 2:26SPEAKER_00: And if you haven't subscribed to my newsletter,
- 2:28SPEAKER_00: just go to newworlder.com or search for New Worlder on Substack.
- 2:32SPEAKER_00: It's free to subscribe, though paid subscribers get access to all content and archives.
- 2:38SPEAKER_00: Again, that's newworlder.com.
- 2:41SPEAKER_00: Also, look for my books, such as the Latin American Cookbook, at bookstores or online.
- 2:48SPEAKER_00: There are links to them in the newsletter, too.
- 2:50SPEAKER_00: And before I forget, we also have a New Worlder YouTube channel now.
- 2:53SPEAKER_00: Full episodes are there, as well as some shorter clips from older ones.
- 2:58SPEAKER_00: Just go to youtube.com slash newworlder.
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- 3:05SPEAKER_00: Every little bit helps us get seen.
- 3:08SPEAKER_00: Enjoy the show.
- 3:53SPEAKER_00: Gabriela, how are you?
- 3:56SPEAKER_01: Hi, Gabby.
- 3:57SPEAKER_01: Hi, Nick.
- 3:58SPEAKER_00: Do you prefer Gabby or Gabriela?
- 4:03SPEAKER_01: Well, I don't mind.
- 4:06SPEAKER_01: Gabby, it's okay.
- 4:09SPEAKER_00: All right.
- 4:09SPEAKER_00: So we met briefly before I went to El Comalote.
- 4:17SPEAKER_00: like a few years ago,
- 4:18SPEAKER_00: it was during,
- 4:19SPEAKER_00: there was this group from Central America,
- 4:22SPEAKER_00: UNITA,
- 4:22SPEAKER_00: like a bunch of chefs,
- 4:23SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 4:23SPEAKER_00: it was organized by like Debbie Fedul.
- 4:27SPEAKER_00: And we went to El Comalote and we also visited a Milpa and Paramos.
- 4:33SPEAKER_00: Was that the place?
- 4:33SPEAKER_00: Does that sound familiar?
- 4:35SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 4:36SPEAKER_00: I had that right.
- 4:37SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 4:37SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 4:38SPEAKER_00: And, and then I, yeah, so we went there, we went to visit a farm and then I actually came back like,
- 4:46SPEAKER_00: months later with my family we're um we went to the beach like el paradon and i
- 4:51SPEAKER_00: stopped there and i bought a lot of tortillas to take to the beach and it was like
- 4:55SPEAKER_00: what we ate for like a week so like i have fun but yeah el comalote in antigua this
- 5:05SPEAKER_00: is your project and we're julia and i talked about it before and we're both like
- 5:11SPEAKER_00: really fascinated by it and
- 5:14SPEAKER_00: And I want to know more about it and,
- 5:16SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 5:17SPEAKER_00: hear it from you and not just,
- 5:19SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 5:19SPEAKER_00: me going in and buying tortillas.
- 5:22SPEAKER_00: So how did it begin?
- 5:24SPEAKER_00: Well, first of all, what is it and how did it begin?
- 5:31SPEAKER_01: Well,
- 5:31SPEAKER_01: the comalote,
- 5:34SPEAKER_01: first,
- 5:35SPEAKER_01: just for you to know what it's a comal or the name,
- 5:40SPEAKER_01: come from comalote will be like a big comal and comales in English,
- 5:44SPEAKER_01: the word will be like riddles.
- 5:47SPEAKER_01: And it's what we use to cook the tortillas.
- 5:52SPEAKER_01: And it's a place where we always gather around, always in a form of a circle.
- 6:00SPEAKER_01: So it's a place that invites to reunite.
- 6:06SPEAKER_01: It's a place where everyone is welcome.
- 6:10SPEAKER_01: So that's why we started this project with this name, El Comalote.
- 6:16SPEAKER_01: And basically what we do is that we make tortillas.
- 6:20SPEAKER_01: We are a tortilleria and we also make traditional cuisine using all the products
- 6:27SPEAKER_01: made from corn that we do here.
- 6:31SPEAKER_01: One of the principal characteristics of our tortilleria is that we only use native Guatemalan corn.
- 6:42SPEAKER_01: We use a lot of different heirloom varieties in our tortilleria.
- 6:48SPEAKER_01: And that's something interesting to say because maybe there was a time where there
- 6:55SPEAKER_01: was no necessary to make a difference between corn and native corn.
- 7:02SPEAKER_01: It was a time where it was just corn.
- 7:05SPEAKER_01: Or ishim, as it's the name in all the Mayan languages in Guatemala, ishim is the word for corn.
- 7:15SPEAKER_01: And it was just, you know, corn tortillas.
- 7:18SPEAKER_01: But nowadays we have this difference between if it's just a tortilleria that
- 7:26SPEAKER_01: Most of them,
- 7:27SPEAKER_01: more than 90% of the tortillerias in Guatemala are using GMO corn or other GMO corn,
- 7:35SPEAKER_01: but not just in corn,
- 7:37SPEAKER_01: but in flours.
- 7:39SPEAKER_01: So it's...
- 7:42SPEAKER_01: for me something like interesting that now we have this difference to say native
- 7:48SPEAKER_01: from just the other varieties of GMO corn because it was not like that and here in
- 7:55SPEAKER_01: Guatemala we are a country where corn also was originated so it's a very important
- 8:04SPEAKER_01: food for us in terms of history culture but also
- 8:12SPEAKER_01: has a spiritual meaning for us because it's part of what we have been eating for thousands of years.
- 8:21SPEAKER_01: And also when we started this project, we were motivated to have the best quality of tortilla.
- 8:32SPEAKER_01: And it didn't start with the, we didn't have in mind the native corn.
- 8:40SPEAKER_01: We were just wanting to have a very well-made, handmade tortilla.
- 8:45SPEAKER_01: And when we started this research,
- 8:49SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 8:49SPEAKER_01: like what are the ingredients that are going to make a perfect,
- 8:54SPEAKER_01: well-made tortilla,
- 8:55SPEAKER_01: we started looking to this wealth,
- 9:00SPEAKER_01: world of native corn.
- 9:03SPEAKER_01: But for me, it's interesting because it was not the other way around.
- 9:08SPEAKER_01: Like we didn't start this project because of native corn, but because of the tortilla.
- 9:13SPEAKER_01: And then we found native corn in the journey.
- 9:18SPEAKER_01: Because for me, I was born in the 90s.
- 9:21SPEAKER_01: And when I was born, all these modified alternatives and flowers were part of my palette.
- 9:32SPEAKER_01: And I didn't know the difference between these two, especially because I was born in the city.
- 9:42SPEAKER_01: So if you are...
- 9:46SPEAKER_01: away from the countryside,
- 9:49SPEAKER_01: this will be something that will happen to you because you forget the difference.
- 9:54SPEAKER_01: You are
- 9:57SPEAKER_01: very like taking away from this awareness of food in general is is not something
- 10:03SPEAKER_01: that is just for corn but it's happening with all the food that we eat and so there
- 10:11SPEAKER_01: still you can still find tortillerias in the countryside that they use native corn
- 10:18SPEAKER_01: but if you are
- 10:20SPEAKER_01: more close to the capital and not just the capital,
- 10:24SPEAKER_01: but the capitalist system,
- 10:27SPEAKER_01: then it will be very difficult for you to find native corn.
- 10:33SPEAKER_01: So we started this project to have very well,
- 10:39SPEAKER_01: like the best quality of handmade tortillas made with native corn and to
- 10:45SPEAKER_01: bring again this option for the areas that have forgotten this option,
- 10:51SPEAKER_01: this very nutritious option that we have,
- 10:56SPEAKER_01: and also for the new generations to understand the difference and not to forget
- 11:02SPEAKER_01: that we have this very sacred food alternative.
- 11:08SPEAKER_00: So what exactly happened to corn in Guatemala?
- 11:13SPEAKER_00: I mean, at one point in time, you know, everything was native corn.
- 11:19SPEAKER_00: But then, so what happened?
- 11:22SPEAKER_00: Was it, you know, war?
- 11:24SPEAKER_00: Did that have a big effect, like the Civil War?
- 11:26SPEAKER_00: Did that kind of change things in the way things were made and after the post-war era?
- 11:32SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 11:34SPEAKER_01: no i like like yes it's also part of of the problem but i think that um before the
- 11:43SPEAKER_01: 60s the there was a some laws that um approve the importation of these gmo options
- 11:56SPEAKER_01: so
- 11:57SPEAKER_01: It's very difficult for native corn to compete with these GMO options because,
- 12:04SPEAKER_01: first of all,
- 12:04SPEAKER_01: they are in price,
- 12:07SPEAKER_01: they are lower.
- 12:09SPEAKER_01: And here in Guatemala, all the products made from corn are very sensible to price.
- 12:16SPEAKER_01: It's something that
- 12:18SPEAKER_01: you don't want to pay a lot for it because it's something that you eat daily so it
- 12:23SPEAKER_01: really affect the price affects directly um to your family economics so that's why
- 12:32SPEAKER_01: it's very difficult to compete with with this alternative and it get also a another
- 12:40SPEAKER_01: thing was that
- 12:42SPEAKER_01: These GMO corn flowers were also introduced to the market and
- 12:52SPEAKER_01: It's very easy just,
- 12:54SPEAKER_01: if you have this flour,
- 12:55SPEAKER_01: it's very easy just to put water to make the masa that we use to make the tortillas.
- 13:04SPEAKER_01: And with corn,
- 13:05SPEAKER_01: you have to make a very extensive process that you have to storage the corn,
- 13:12SPEAKER_01: you have to nixtamalize the corn,
- 13:16SPEAKER_01: you have to grind it you have to care for it so it's not just a you know just flour
- 13:23SPEAKER_01: water and that's it uh but it it has a lot of um process before to to obtain the
- 13:32SPEAKER_01: the tortilla so this was very
- 13:40SPEAKER_01: helpful for the market because now that we live like in very in that you don't have
- 13:47SPEAKER_01: time and you want everything quick and everything like that all these alternatives
- 13:53SPEAKER_01: that was that were introduced to the market then the people started preferring
- 14:01SPEAKER_01: these alternatives rather than native corn
- 14:07SPEAKER_02: Gaby, and what is the approach of the government in regard to these?
- 14:12SPEAKER_02: There are like some subsidized,
- 14:14SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 14:14SPEAKER_02: subsidized that have affected how,
- 14:18SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 14:19SPEAKER_02: prices,
- 14:19SPEAKER_02: but also,
- 14:21SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 14:21SPEAKER_02: the convenience of consuming these more processed massas or corn or tortillas or
- 14:30SPEAKER_02: what is the government doing about it or over time?
- 14:35SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I think that they are not doing a lot.
- 14:41SPEAKER_01: Actually,
- 14:41SPEAKER_01: right now,
- 14:44SPEAKER_01: we are in a fight because there are some laws that are wanting to introduce
- 14:52SPEAKER_01: Monsanto in Guatemala.
- 14:56SPEAKER_01: And I think if we still have native corn, it's because of the resistance of indigenous communities.
- 15:07SPEAKER_01: It's thanks for them that we still have this food because if there weren't for them,
- 15:16SPEAKER_01: maybe we were not having native corn anymore.
- 15:23SPEAKER_01: Actually, it's a very hard resistance because all the system, I think it's...
- 15:35SPEAKER_01: It's not working for preserving this diversity.
- 15:42SPEAKER_01: Also another problem is the land access because most of the farmers don't have big land to cultivate.
- 15:54SPEAKER_01: They just have like little spaces.
- 15:58SPEAKER_01: They cultivate most of them for their own consumption and not to sell.
- 16:05SPEAKER_01: I think it's very dangerous that we don't have a government plan for preserving all this diversity.
- 16:18SPEAKER_01: There are very little
- 16:20SPEAKER_01: work uh but there's no like something that i can say that the government is doing
- 16:28SPEAKER_01: like a huge movement the ones that are doing all this work are the the indigenous
- 16:35SPEAKER_00: communities so when i was there and we went to to that milpa um
- 16:44SPEAKER_00: Rafa Meyer, who's, you know, he's a corn expert.
- 16:47SPEAKER_00: He runs Fundacion Tortilla in Mexico.
- 16:50SPEAKER_00: He was there and he said something that I think about all the time.
- 16:55SPEAKER_00: He said,
- 16:56SPEAKER_00: he told me or someone,
- 16:58SPEAKER_00: but I mean,
- 16:59SPEAKER_00: I heard it,
- 17:00SPEAKER_00: that he said,
- 17:01SPEAKER_00: it's very expensive to invest in the infrastructure to preserve maize,
- 17:08SPEAKER_00: which I think about it all the time.
- 17:11SPEAKER_00: And it's just,
- 17:14SPEAKER_00: it's really hard to think about it like that,
- 17:16SPEAKER_00: that it's,
- 17:17SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 17:18SPEAKER_00: that as much as we want to preserve all these foods,
- 17:21SPEAKER_00: it's expensive.
- 17:22SPEAKER_00: Although like everything's stacked against us from, from doing that.
- 17:27SPEAKER_00: Like you mentioned, like Juliana mentioned like government subsidies and things like that.
- 17:32SPEAKER_00: It's like, I'm sure the government's actively making it harder to, to do this.
- 17:39SPEAKER_00: And it's,
- 17:41SPEAKER_00: It's just a difficult concept to wrap your head around.
- 17:44SPEAKER_00: We all just want it to kind of be easy, but it's not.
- 17:47SPEAKER_00: And it is expensive and it does take a lot of work.
- 17:50SPEAKER_00: And what do you think of this?
- 17:54SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I mean.
- 17:57SPEAKER_01: yeah um i think it's it's true it's very expensive actually i think that um what we
- 18:04SPEAKER_01: are paying for native corn even if we are trying to to pay something that it's fair
- 18:14SPEAKER_01: i think that it's not enough because it's a lot of work and all the machinery that
- 18:24SPEAKER_01: with all the farmers that we work they don't have machines it's all by hand because
- 18:29SPEAKER_01: machinery is expensive and it's something that they don't have access to and if
- 18:34SPEAKER_01: they have access to machines then the price of corn will be like something that
- 18:40SPEAKER_01: that the population won't be able to pay so
- 18:46SPEAKER_01: I think something that it's important to say is that corn,
- 18:51SPEAKER_01: it's something that we have been eating in this part of the continent like since always,
- 19:03SPEAKER_01: you know?
- 19:04SPEAKER_01: the cultivation is something also that is part of our traditions and our culture
- 19:12SPEAKER_01: but the problem I think is when we move away from the responsibility of cultivating
- 19:21SPEAKER_01: our own food and then we decided to do like do something else and to put that
- 19:28SPEAKER_01: responsibility of cultivating your food to other companies and other
- 19:34SPEAKER_01: entities and then it's like very difficult to eat good food and we I think we live a very
- 19:53SPEAKER_01: unaware of what is happening in the cultivation of our food and is how the system
- 19:59SPEAKER_01: wants to be,
- 20:01SPEAKER_01: not just to put our eyes in all the processes that are being made in the food industry.
- 20:09SPEAKER_01: because in that way, it's better for all these companies.
- 20:15SPEAKER_01: I think that they will have a lot of problems if we all were putting our eyes in
- 20:19SPEAKER_01: all the processes that they are doing.
- 20:22SPEAKER_01: So then we have all these cheap alternatives, but they are not nutrition.
- 20:27SPEAKER_01: They don't have nutrition.
- 20:30SPEAKER_01: Or sometimes it's almost like eating something that is damaging our health.
- 20:38SPEAKER_01: uh but it's the price is something that we can pay and then we say that it's okay
- 20:43SPEAKER_01: but i think the question for me sometimes is like what are we putting our resources
- 20:53SPEAKER_01: into because maybe if we help or maybe we were paying more for corn uh to
- 21:02SPEAKER_01: to be able for the farmers to have machinery maybe maybe we were eating the best
- 21:08SPEAKER_01: corn and we were being pain less in doctors or other health issues but we prefer to
- 21:18SPEAKER_01: eat a food that it's not nutritious and then pay a lot in other things that are
- 21:27SPEAKER_01: damaging our health so
- 21:30SPEAKER_01: It's very hard and I think that for us as a country where we are very used to eat
- 21:39SPEAKER_01: corn and that we don't anymore take the time to think all the process that is behind.
- 21:49SPEAKER_01: I think in that way we will be very difficult to pay something more fair and to
- 21:55SPEAKER_01: give other alternatives for the farmers.
- 22:01SPEAKER_01: if we don't value and we don't understand that,
- 22:05SPEAKER_01: like,
- 22:06SPEAKER_01: it's not just value,
- 22:07SPEAKER_01: but when you understand all the process,
- 22:10SPEAKER_01: maybe you will ask yourself,
- 22:12SPEAKER_01: if I was doing this,
- 22:14SPEAKER_01: how much I will be,
- 22:18SPEAKER_01: like...
- 22:20SPEAKER_01: how much money will I be asking for the work that I'm doing?
- 22:24SPEAKER_01: If I will spend these nine months cultivating corn or the process, the storage.
- 22:31SPEAKER_01: And if you start thinking,
- 22:33SPEAKER_01: if you were the one that it's going to do it,
- 22:37SPEAKER_01: then maybe everything changes,
- 22:39SPEAKER_01: but because we don't care,
- 22:41SPEAKER_01: someone else is doing it.
- 22:43SPEAKER_01: And it's like, we don't want to see that part.
- 22:46SPEAKER_01: And so in that way, it's very difficult to,
- 22:50SPEAKER_01: to have a more fair market.
- 22:59SPEAKER_02: And Gabi,
- 23:00SPEAKER_02: how,
- 23:00SPEAKER_02: as an initiative that unites all these purveyors and farmers of native varieties of corn,
- 23:08SPEAKER_02: how does that work?
- 23:09SPEAKER_02: How did you start and how the process has changed?
- 23:12SPEAKER_02: Because you are gathering more and more farmers.
- 23:17SPEAKER_02: How is the dynamic of the company in, you know,
- 23:21SPEAKER_02: having in mind all these challenges?
- 23:24SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 23:26SPEAKER_01: I think it's a very beautiful community.
- 23:33SPEAKER_01: We work with farmers that have more land access.
- 23:40SPEAKER_01: It's like not huge amount of land,
- 23:43SPEAKER_01: but they have a little bit more so they can sell an excedent of their crops.
- 23:50SPEAKER_01: And it's a very,
- 23:57SPEAKER_01: I think it's a very beautiful community because they do what they do because they
- 24:05SPEAKER_01: love what they are doing.
- 24:09SPEAKER_01: The indigenous communities cultivate corn, not just
- 24:15SPEAKER_01: you know, for selling corn.
- 24:17SPEAKER_01: It's not that.
- 24:19SPEAKER_01: It's more,
- 24:20SPEAKER_01: it's a connection that they have with corn because it's what they have been
- 24:29SPEAKER_01: cultivating from generation to generation.
- 24:33SPEAKER_01: It's what their grandmothers and grandfathers did.
- 24:37SPEAKER_01: And
- 24:41SPEAKER_01: we help them in something that we learn is that not everything in this way of working is not
- 24:51SPEAKER_01: It's not always price.
- 24:53SPEAKER_01: It's not always like, I will pay more.
- 24:56SPEAKER_01: No, it's more about the community and communication and find other ways in which we can help.
- 25:04SPEAKER_01: For example,
- 25:05SPEAKER_01: transportation and all the logistics,
- 25:08SPEAKER_01: because sometimes it's difficult for the farmers to sell directly because they
- 25:14SPEAKER_01: don't have this logistic system.
- 25:18SPEAKER_01: So transportation and also storage is something that it's difficult because
- 25:24SPEAKER_01: sometimes depending on the weather of the region,
- 25:30SPEAKER_01: it can affect the harvest.
- 25:34SPEAKER_01: So storage is also something that we help to some of them that they ask for that help.
- 25:43SPEAKER_01: And for me, I have learned a lot of how these communities work together.
- 25:53SPEAKER_01: Because at first, as I told you, I was always just thinking about price.
- 25:59SPEAKER_01: Like, I will pay more, I will pay more.
- 26:02SPEAKER_01: And I remember one time, and this was something that Doña Matea told me.
- 26:08SPEAKER_01: You knew Doña Matea in this trip that we made.
- 26:12SPEAKER_01: because she is my teacher because when I started buying the corn with her and the community,
- 26:26SPEAKER_01: I was telling them that I want to pay more for this harvest because I appreciate
- 26:34SPEAKER_01: all the work that you do,
- 26:35SPEAKER_01: so I want to pay more.
- 26:37SPEAKER_01: And Doña Matea, I remember she said, it's good and thank you that you have this intention.
- 26:44SPEAKER_01: But if you start paying more for the corn,
- 26:49SPEAKER_01: then it will be no corn for the community because they are going to prefer to sell
- 26:56SPEAKER_01: this corn to you instead of selling for the ones that they didn't cultivate.
- 27:02SPEAKER_01: So you are going to make more expensive the corn for us.
- 27:06SPEAKER_01: so please don't do that and i was like wow so i was very wrong so sometimes i i
- 27:15SPEAKER_01: think that i that's when that's why when i think that when we are very close to
- 27:22SPEAKER_01: this capitalist system we um forget the other things that it's not just price and
- 27:32SPEAKER_01: money and all this productivity
- 27:37SPEAKER_01: but they are something else and the way of working together as a community is not
- 27:45SPEAKER_01: price and I think that farmers in Guatemala that still cultivate corn they don't do
- 27:52SPEAKER_01: it because of money that's something that I've learned they don't do it for that
- 27:58SPEAKER_01: they do it because
- 28:00SPEAKER_01: Corn is very important.
- 28:02SPEAKER_01: It's what they and what we eat every meal, every day.
- 28:09SPEAKER_01: And it's a deeper connection with this food.
- 28:17SPEAKER_00: Why is it so hard to grow Criollo corn?
- 28:24SPEAKER_01: I think it's hard because it's very vulnerable.
- 28:31SPEAKER_01: It depends on all this weather condition, the climate change.
- 28:36SPEAKER_01: For example, this year, we were waiting for the rainy season on March, and it was June.
- 28:45SPEAKER_01: Well, like March, May, but it was June and it was still not raining.
- 28:50SPEAKER_01: So it's hard because most of the harvest of a lot of farmers that I know are going
- 28:59SPEAKER_01: to be less this year because part of the cultivation were waiting for the rain and
- 29:07SPEAKER_01: because it didn't rain,
- 29:09SPEAKER_01: it dried.
- 29:11SPEAKER_01: Some of them, when they saw that it wasn't raining, they started recultivating again the seed
- 29:19SPEAKER_01: But there's a lot of losses.
- 29:33SPEAKER_01: If you had a bad harvest, then it's the loss of the farmer.
- 29:39SPEAKER_01: They don't have no one that are like helping them or maybe paying for what they
- 29:48SPEAKER_01: lost or other alternatives.
- 29:52SPEAKER_01: So I think weather and climate change is one of the biggest problems.
- 30:01SPEAKER_01: And also the time because a GMO seed will grow in three months.
- 30:12SPEAKER_01: To grow something that fast,
- 30:13SPEAKER_01: you have to put a lot of agrochemics and pesticides so it can grow in three months.
- 30:19SPEAKER_01: But native varieties grow in nine months.
- 30:23SPEAKER_01: So the difference is huge because with GMO corn, you will have three harvests in a year.
- 30:29SPEAKER_01: But with native corn, you just have one.
- 30:32SPEAKER_01: And if the weather or this year was that the rainy season came after,
- 30:41SPEAKER_01: but it can also be other weather conditions that imagine if you just have one
- 30:47SPEAKER_01: harvest in a year,
- 30:48SPEAKER_01: you don't have chance to,
- 30:51SPEAKER_01: okay,
- 30:51SPEAKER_01: maybe if I have three harvest in a year,
- 30:54SPEAKER_01: maybe with the first one,
- 30:56SPEAKER_01: it didn't work because of the weather,
- 30:58SPEAKER_01: but I have this other two.
- 31:01SPEAKER_01: So in terms of this, I think that the GMO options,
- 31:09SPEAKER_01: may say that they have the solution but the problem is that it's just we have three
- 31:17SPEAKER_01: harvests in a year but we are killing the the earth so then and you are also
- 31:26SPEAKER_01: damaging the the water that goes to the rivers and the animals that are in in the
- 31:32SPEAKER_01: rivers um so
- 31:36SPEAKER_01: Sometimes I think that GMO options say that they have the solution,
- 31:45SPEAKER_01: but the solution in a very basic level.
- 31:50SPEAKER_01: go all the way down it's a very a very huge problem that it's not just like
- 31:57SPEAKER_01: modifying the seeds to to to have the solution of for this you know it's very it's
- 32:03SPEAKER_01: a lot of things also as I told you is the land access because here in Guatemala the
- 32:12SPEAKER_01: ones that are cultivating and working with the
- 32:16SPEAKER_01: with the food that we eat most of them they are not the owners of the land they are
- 32:21SPEAKER_01: working for someone else and this I think it's a problem because if you have maybe
- 32:29SPEAKER_01: more land then you can not just cultivate corn but you can cultivate other other
- 32:37SPEAKER_01: food that can help you you know to have a balance
- 32:41SPEAKER_01: But most of the time, it's what happens, that they don't have a lot of land to have a balance.
- 32:50SPEAKER_01: So that's one of the principal problems also.
- 33:00SPEAKER_02: I was thinking, it's obviously a big effort, but you mentioned something that seems to be
- 33:10SPEAKER_02: if not intact, very protected, which is the connection of farmers with what they grow, right?
- 33:20SPEAKER_02: And I can't imagine that people buying these native varieties are somehow connected
- 33:30SPEAKER_02: with this because otherwise they will not be buying as you,
- 33:33SPEAKER_02: right?
- 33:34SPEAKER_02: What about consumers?
- 33:35SPEAKER_02: Because...
- 33:38SPEAKER_02: doesn't seem to be a straightforward awareness.
- 33:43SPEAKER_02: One thing is to, you know, know the difference.
- 33:48SPEAKER_02: This is more expensive.
- 33:49SPEAKER_02: This is native corn.
- 33:51SPEAKER_02: You see the label, you see.
- 33:53SPEAKER_02: But do you think consumers feel this as naturally as farmers?
- 33:59SPEAKER_02: They are obviously farther away from the land.
- 34:02SPEAKER_02: It's part of the, you know, problem of connection in,
- 34:07SPEAKER_02: industrialist societies and capitalism but i was wondering about that because it
- 34:13SPEAKER_02: seems to be so important to these resistance and that somehow they survive that is
- 34:21SPEAKER_02: not coming all out of profit and the motivation to make more money there is this
- 34:27SPEAKER_02: you know care deep care and i wonder if the same is happening on the other side and
- 34:34SPEAKER_02: if you have seen a change or
- 34:37SPEAKER_02: You know, that's another challenge.
- 34:41SPEAKER_01: I've seen a change in terms of appreciation of this alternative,
- 34:49SPEAKER_01: because when we started five years ago,
- 34:54SPEAKER_01: it was very difficult to,
- 34:57SPEAKER_01: we had to make,
- 35:03SPEAKER_01: to work on,
- 35:06SPEAKER_01: making people understand the value of the difference between native and GMO corn.
- 35:13SPEAKER_01: As I told you,
- 35:14SPEAKER_01: especially I'm talking about the city,
- 35:18SPEAKER_01: the Guatemala city,
- 35:20SPEAKER_01: or in Antigua also because we are very close to the city.
- 35:24SPEAKER_01: If you go to the countryside,
- 35:25SPEAKER_01: it's another story because I think that tortillerias is not something new,
- 35:31SPEAKER_01: like native corn tortillerias,
- 35:34SPEAKER_01: as I told you,
- 35:35SPEAKER_01: is not something that we are inventing because native corn,
- 35:40SPEAKER_01: it's very present in the countryside of Guatemala and you can find these tortillerias.
- 35:45SPEAKER_01: But they...
- 35:49SPEAKER_01: like live very differently and their relationship that they have with the food.
- 35:55SPEAKER_01: It's very different from the closer that you are from the capital.
- 36:01SPEAKER_01: And so I think that that we have seen this
- 36:06SPEAKER_01: this change in thinking, oh, okay, so not all the tortillas are the same.
- 36:14SPEAKER_01: And I appreciate this difference.
- 36:17SPEAKER_01: And I think that the quality is obvious because of all the senses,
- 36:24SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 36:24SPEAKER_01: the smell,
- 36:25SPEAKER_01: the flavor,
- 36:26SPEAKER_01: the texture,
- 36:27SPEAKER_01: all the experience.
- 36:28SPEAKER_01: When you eat a native corn tortilla, I think that's very clear, the difference.
- 36:35SPEAKER_01: But I don't think that we are having this connection as it is for the farmers.
- 36:46SPEAKER_01: And I think it's basically because if you are not responsible of cultivating your food,
- 36:55SPEAKER_01: maybe not just corn,
- 36:58SPEAKER_01: maybe at least,
- 36:59SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 37:00SPEAKER_01: have a plant of chile in your garden.
- 37:03SPEAKER_01: in your garden or if you don't have a garden in your kitchen or you know maybe some
- 37:09SPEAKER_01: leaves to cook i think that it's very important for us to start putting our hands
- 37:17SPEAKER_01: in
- 37:19SPEAKER_01: in the earth and cultivate something because we look have like we don't understand
- 37:27SPEAKER_01: anymore all this process we are very used just to go to the market grab all your
- 37:32SPEAKER_01: food eat them and that's it
- 37:35SPEAKER_01: But we are very disconnected for the whole process of a plant of growing.
- 37:42SPEAKER_01: And it's not just for corn, as I told you, it's for everything.
- 37:45SPEAKER_01: I think that it's very important for everyone to start at least cultivating
- 37:51SPEAKER_01: something to start having this connection.
- 37:55SPEAKER_01: Because imagine, I think that it's very different if you
- 38:00SPEAKER_01: eat this tortilla that it's delicious and and as i told you with native corn it's
- 38:05SPEAKER_01: the quality is a big difference but imagine that this tortilla is from the corn
- 38:12SPEAKER_01: that you have been cultivating for nine months and now and you made the whole
- 38:17SPEAKER_01: process and then you eat it it's like we will be like something very special
- 38:23SPEAKER_01: But so I think that it's not just to say like, wow, this is very good taste and all that.
- 38:31SPEAKER_01: But to have this connection,
- 38:33SPEAKER_01: I think that we need to put more our hands and our responsibility in what we are eating.
- 38:40SPEAKER_01: And if we don't have the space to cultivate corn, at least something.
- 38:45SPEAKER_01: And I see it in my daughter.
- 38:47SPEAKER_01: I have a daughter of 10 months.
- 38:50SPEAKER_01: And now that she's...
- 38:52SPEAKER_01: starting to you know to know the world and she's always we have some um plants like
- 39:01SPEAKER_01: in the in the house and she's always looking for the the earth the so she's always
- 39:08SPEAKER_01: putting the hands in there and she likes that
- 39:11SPEAKER_01: And I was thinking like, yeah, it's part of our nature to put the hands in the earth.
- 39:19SPEAKER_01: And something that sometimes a lot of people are not doing anymore.
- 39:23SPEAKER_00: No, it's our natural curiosity to want to touch the dirt.
- 39:28SPEAKER_00: But then we're told over and over again, no, that's dirty.
- 39:32SPEAKER_00: Stay away from it.
- 39:33SPEAKER_00: Don't touch it.
- 39:34SPEAKER_00: And it's just like from a very young age, we're taught to...
- 39:38SPEAKER_00: disconnect from where our food comes from from the from the very soil from the
- 39:43SPEAKER_00: earth it is strange like i i think i grew up very disconnected from i talked about
- 39:50SPEAKER_00: this a lot that i i had no idea where you know my food came from growing up in the
- 39:57SPEAKER_00: states and it was it took me many years i think to kind of to break that to just
- 40:04SPEAKER_00: kind of try and understand what that means and
- 40:07SPEAKER_00: what that means for my kids and try to do something else.
- 40:13SPEAKER_00: One thing I wanted to talk about was when we went to the farm,
- 40:23SPEAKER_00: the amount of varieties that were being grown in that relatively small plot of land
- 40:31SPEAKER_00: was quite incredible.
- 40:34SPEAKER_00: There was red corns and black corns and blue corns and yellow.
- 40:39SPEAKER_00: But that also helps protect against bad harvest, I imagine.
- 40:47SPEAKER_00: A lot of other cultures cultivate like this to where maybe one variety might not do
- 40:54SPEAKER_00: as well in a certain way.
- 40:57SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 40:57SPEAKER_00: amount of rainfall or something with some erratic weather,
- 41:00SPEAKER_00: but then the other variety might kind of help balance it out a little more.
- 41:05SPEAKER_00: So it's kind of like a safeguard against the erratic climate, I guess, but, but it's, it's much harder.
- 41:15SPEAKER_00: You don't get, you're not, not never going to have like that GMO quantity
- 41:22SPEAKER_00: of corn in that just stability of having tons and tons of a crop every single year.
- 41:29SPEAKER_00: But I guess you always have a little bit enough.
- 41:33SPEAKER_00: How do you make people understand that?
- 41:35SPEAKER_00: How do you make customers understand that?
- 41:38SPEAKER_00: Like,
- 41:38SPEAKER_00: I think what you're doing,
- 41:39SPEAKER_00: like you go into a comalote and you have all these beautiful tortillas of different
- 41:44SPEAKER_00: colors and things,
- 41:46SPEAKER_00: but then you go to the supermarket and it's just this,
- 41:49SPEAKER_00: like this,
- 41:52SPEAKER_00: gray cardboard looking tortilla that they all look exactly the same and there's
- 41:59SPEAKER_00: this like dull lifeless color how do we get more people to to understand that
- 42:06SPEAKER_01: Yeah,
- 42:06SPEAKER_01: I think,
- 42:08SPEAKER_01: you know what,
- 42:08SPEAKER_01: it's very interesting that I've seen some kids that they don't know,
- 42:15SPEAKER_01: for example,
- 42:16SPEAKER_01: the black corn tortillas because they are difficult to find,
- 42:21SPEAKER_01: especially,
- 42:21SPEAKER_01: as I told you,
- 42:22SPEAKER_01: in the capital and in the market,
- 42:25SPEAKER_01: supermarket.
- 42:27SPEAKER_01: And they are like, what is this?
- 42:30SPEAKER_01: Like,
- 42:30SPEAKER_01: they don't know that this exists and they start preferring the white because it's
- 42:38SPEAKER_01: what they are used to.
- 42:41SPEAKER_01: So I think it's very dangerous because
- 42:47SPEAKER_01: As I told you, as me, I was born in the 90s with these GMO alternatives already.
- 42:53SPEAKER_01: And my palate was like, oh, I love tortillas.
- 42:58SPEAKER_01: Because we conserve things for,
- 43:01SPEAKER_01: thanks to all these women that preserve and resist the handmade technique of making tortillas.
- 43:06SPEAKER_01: We still have, you know, these amazing tortillas made by hand.
- 43:12SPEAKER_01: But you think it's good because you don't know the other thing and you don't know
- 43:19SPEAKER_01: actually what you are eating.
- 43:21SPEAKER_01: So I think it's very important for the new generations and
- 43:26SPEAKER_01: Now that I am a mother,
- 43:28SPEAKER_01: I understand better the responsibility that I have with my daughter to give her a
- 43:39SPEAKER_01: lot of diversity in what she is eating.
- 43:43SPEAKER_01: because then I don't want her to grow not knowing that all this diversity exists.
- 43:52SPEAKER_01: And I want her to look for this diversity because maybe she will be like living
- 43:59SPEAKER_01: somewhere else,
- 44:00SPEAKER_01: but I want for her to look for this diversity and not just this plain food.
- 44:08SPEAKER_01: that i think it's very convenient for the industry you know because it's what it's
- 44:13SPEAKER_01: more productive for this the industry just make this one this one dna that it's
- 44:22SPEAKER_01: perfect for our combo of agrochemics and pesticides and it's better for us to to
- 44:29SPEAKER_01: sell it to have it and
- 44:31SPEAKER_01: you start losing all this knowledge of the diversity that we have in food,
- 44:38SPEAKER_01: and then you just want to eat,
- 44:40SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 44:40SPEAKER_01: one thing.
- 44:41SPEAKER_01: And this happens,
- 44:42SPEAKER_01: you can see in restaurants,
- 44:44SPEAKER_01: that children,
- 44:47SPEAKER_01: they don't want to eat,
- 44:48SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 44:49SPEAKER_01: like diversity of food,
- 44:51SPEAKER_01: vegetables,
- 44:52SPEAKER_01: fruits,
- 44:52SPEAKER_01: a lot of things.
- 44:53SPEAKER_01: They just want the simple food, you know, that.
- 44:57SPEAKER_01: So...
- 44:59SPEAKER_01: I think that it's important for the new generations to see all this diversity.
- 45:06SPEAKER_01: I also see in greens, here in Guatemala, we have a lot of native leaves that we have lost this
- 45:24SPEAKER_01: way of eating but also enjoying these these these flavors then it's like i think
- 45:32SPEAKER_01: it's like a colonization of your palette and your what you are looking the market
- 45:39SPEAKER_01: Then you just want something that is sweet.
- 45:42SPEAKER_01: You just want something that tastes like in the way that works for these companies
- 45:48SPEAKER_01: and the industry in general.
- 45:50SPEAKER_01: And all this rich food with a lot of nutritious properties and...
- 45:57SPEAKER_01: and that it's good for our health, then we don't like it anymore.
- 46:03SPEAKER_01: Or it happens with fruit, that now fruits are more sweet, that they were like native varieties.
- 46:11SPEAKER_01: Because everything is modified for us to like and, you know, like want more.
- 46:19SPEAKER_01: But I don't think it's meant for our health, our...
- 46:25SPEAKER_01: well-being or to preserve the connection with the earth.
- 46:31SPEAKER_01: I don't think it's meant for that.
- 46:35SPEAKER_01: And I think we have to do the people that are working with certain food, as us in El Comalote,
- 46:47SPEAKER_01: I think we have to make more awareness to... I want to do that too.
- 46:54SPEAKER_01: Sometimes maybe I just don't do...
- 47:01SPEAKER_01: want to do more to to make more awareness of this to make more content about this
- 47:06SPEAKER_01: uh so for the new generations uh they can um they they will want to do it more
- 47:16SPEAKER_01: alternatives and
- 47:19SPEAKER_01: and see that we have a huge diversity in food, not just what you see in the supermarket.
- 47:26SPEAKER_01: If you see one thing in the supermarket,
- 47:30SPEAKER_01: you can see that in the countryside you have for that one thing that you are buying
- 47:38SPEAKER_01: in the supermarket,
- 47:39SPEAKER_01: you have a lot of diversity in the communities that are working very close to this food.
- 47:50SPEAKER_02: But Gaby,
- 47:50SPEAKER_02: I was thinking about that and you mentioned,
- 47:54SPEAKER_02: sorry,
- 47:55SPEAKER_02: even you,
- 47:56SPEAKER_02: you are already doing a lot,
- 47:57SPEAKER_02: but you say,
- 47:58SPEAKER_02: I want to do more in terms of awareness.
- 48:00SPEAKER_02: And I think part of all this is education, right?
- 48:06SPEAKER_02: Educational.
- 48:07SPEAKER_02: And I was thinking,
- 48:08SPEAKER_02: it's not only,
- 48:10SPEAKER_02: even if it's one product,
- 48:12SPEAKER_02: I think the problem sometimes is that it's taken as a given.
- 48:16SPEAKER_02: Is there...
- 48:18SPEAKER_02: in your table, in your fridge, in the market, at the market, and it's taken as a given.
- 48:25SPEAKER_02: And I think that's part of the problem.
- 48:27SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 48:28SPEAKER_02: apart from diversity and getting used to diverse flavors,
- 48:33SPEAKER_02: I think that this connection starts when you take it for granted,
- 48:37SPEAKER_02: right?
- 48:38SPEAKER_02: So even if it's one or two varieties or corn or potato,
- 48:43SPEAKER_02: if it's coming from a good source,
- 48:44SPEAKER_02: even if it's the same every day,
- 48:46SPEAKER_02: but you don't take it for granted,
- 48:49SPEAKER_02: I think that's when the change starts.
- 48:51SPEAKER_02: And I wonder,
- 48:52SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 48:54SPEAKER_02: you already said,
- 48:55SPEAKER_02: I'm sure you think about this every day,
- 48:57SPEAKER_02: like how I educate people more about this,
- 49:01SPEAKER_02: right?
- 49:02SPEAKER_02: And I wonder what have you talked about
- 49:07SPEAKER_02: uh with your colleagues about this i mean what how to strengthen strategies to
- 49:13SPEAKER_02: educate people not only again not only about try this current try this try because
- 49:19SPEAKER_02: i think restaurants and i mean nick knows this very well i think they have
- 49:25SPEAKER_02: contributed to this awareness of seasonality
- 49:29SPEAKER_02: So not all the time you have available the same thing.
- 49:33SPEAKER_02: So you just ask, what is fresh today?
- 49:35SPEAKER_02: What do you have, you know, what are you cooking today?
- 49:39SPEAKER_02: Because it's at the market.
- 49:41SPEAKER_02: But again,
- 49:42SPEAKER_02: there is a step beyond that,
- 49:44SPEAKER_02: which is not taking it as a given because maybe tomorrow that thing is just not available.
- 49:50SPEAKER_02: So I wonder how to go deeper.
- 49:53SPEAKER_02: And if you have discussed this with your colleagues, what are,
- 49:58SPEAKER_02: I don't know,
- 49:58SPEAKER_02: which,
- 49:59SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 50:00SPEAKER_02: I don't want to put more pressure already doing a lot,
- 50:02SPEAKER_02: but I'm just doing it.
- 50:05SPEAKER_01: No, yes, it's something that we have some thoughts about.
- 50:12SPEAKER_01: I think that we take it for granted because we nowadays have more options.
- 50:19SPEAKER_01: So imagine, I don't know,
- 50:25SPEAKER_01: A lot of years ago, maybe you just had this, like maybe like beans, squash, and corn, to say something.
- 50:37SPEAKER_01: And you will eat it every day without,
- 50:40SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 50:41SPEAKER_01: taking it for granted or anything because it was what you have and that's it.
- 50:47SPEAKER_01: but now that we have like a huge not options from other parts of the world.
- 50:55SPEAKER_01: And so I think sometimes you get bored of eating something because you know,
- 51:03SPEAKER_01: that you have all these alternatives.
- 51:06SPEAKER_01: So why am I going to eat beans all the day, all days, if I can eat other, other things, you know?
- 51:17SPEAKER_01: So,
- 51:19SPEAKER_01: I think that first of all,
- 51:20SPEAKER_01: it's very important to understand or to know what are the crops that are native
- 51:28SPEAKER_01: from the country or the territory where you are.
- 51:34SPEAKER_01: like what is that it's from here and so then try to to put in your diet more of
- 51:45SPEAKER_01: this food because it if you are eating something that it's from the place that you
- 51:50SPEAKER_01: are living it's probably probably it's going to have less um
- 51:59SPEAKER_01: for example, it will be better.
- 52:03SPEAKER_01: I think in terms of this chain of supply,
- 52:10SPEAKER_01: it will be better if you start putting more in your diet of food that are
- 52:15SPEAKER_01: cultivated and are native from where you are.
- 52:19SPEAKER_01: But I think that nowadays we have a lot of more options.
- 52:23SPEAKER_01: So it's difficult to...
- 52:27SPEAKER_01: to have this balance,
- 52:28SPEAKER_01: and also I think it's very,
- 52:33SPEAKER_01: it's very,
- 52:37SPEAKER_01: like,
- 52:39SPEAKER_01: if you are,
- 52:40SPEAKER_01: if you have very strong cultural values,
- 52:45SPEAKER_01: a heritage or you feel like the more you are connected with your roots your culture
- 52:53SPEAKER_01: then the more that you are going to protect and you are not going to to take for
- 52:58SPEAKER_01: granted the food that it's from your territory but if you are a not like for
- 53:05SPEAKER_01: example here in Guatemala with I think that
- 53:10SPEAKER_01: we have some issues in our our identity as Guatemalans because of the colony and a
- 53:17SPEAKER_01: lot of things that are part of our history that we don't know if we are from like
- 53:25SPEAKER_01: for example me like I'm not Mayan but I'm not from Spain but who am I and all these
- 53:31SPEAKER_01: questions that
- 53:33SPEAKER_01: will be better for me to like other foods that are not for here because I don't have this identity.
- 53:40SPEAKER_01: And you can see this in countries where they have not permitted,
- 53:45SPEAKER_01: or not countries,
- 53:46SPEAKER_01: but territories,
- 53:48SPEAKER_01: they have not permitted this huge food change to establish.
- 53:54SPEAKER_01: And you see this happens when the community are very close to their culture, their roots, and their food.
- 54:02SPEAKER_01: But if you don't have that,
- 54:04SPEAKER_01: it's very easy for any brand or anyone can say to you that this is good and you
- 54:10SPEAKER_01: will say,
- 54:11SPEAKER_01: yes,
- 54:12SPEAKER_01: it's good.
- 54:13SPEAKER_01: So I think also as a way of not taking it for granted,
- 54:20SPEAKER_01: it's also to make more strength your cultural traditions.
- 54:34SPEAKER_01: To know,
- 54:34SPEAKER_01: I think what happens is also that you don't know where are you from and you don't
- 54:40SPEAKER_01: know where your food comes from.
- 54:42SPEAKER_01: So there's a lot of things that you are not seeing.
- 54:46SPEAKER_01: So it's easier for whatever thing or brand or food that appears for you to say it's
- 54:54SPEAKER_01: okay to eat that,
- 54:55SPEAKER_01: you know?
- 54:59SPEAKER_00: Yeah, yeah, it's...
- 55:03SPEAKER_00: It's hard.
- 55:05SPEAKER_00: These companies are eager to move in on any doubt you have and make their way into your life.
- 55:14SPEAKER_00: I think when people lose,
- 55:18SPEAKER_00: I never felt I'm half Italian and all this other stuff and living in Ohio in the States,
- 55:26SPEAKER_00: it's like I had no cultural connection to the food of where I'm from.
- 55:31SPEAKER_00: Most other people I grew up with didn't either.
- 55:34SPEAKER_00: There weren't native communities around.
- 55:39SPEAKER_00: I think it's hard to get us back to thinking about the food of our landscape and
- 55:47SPEAKER_00: the people that grew all these amazing varieties of things.
- 55:53SPEAKER_00: I think it's a big leap in the mind for a lot of people.
- 55:59SPEAKER_00: They've become so used to just
- 56:01SPEAKER_00: going to the store and buying,
- 56:03SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 56:03SPEAKER_00: whatever's they can afford and whatever just appeals to them at the moment in the
- 56:08SPEAKER_00: moment and whatever has a nice looking package or,
- 56:12SPEAKER_00: or whatever.
- 56:14SPEAKER_00: I don't know.
- 56:16SPEAKER_00: It's,
- 56:16SPEAKER_00: it's a,
- 56:18SPEAKER_00: it's a big cycle,
- 56:19SPEAKER_00: but it's,
- 56:21SPEAKER_00: it's in,
- 56:21SPEAKER_00: it's like,
- 56:22SPEAKER_00: it seems impossible to break,
- 56:23SPEAKER_00: but I think little by little,
- 56:26SPEAKER_00: You know, it does change.
- 56:28SPEAKER_00: And I'm sure when you first started with the people you were serving,
- 56:34SPEAKER_00: a lot of them were like,
- 56:36SPEAKER_00: why am I paying this much for a tortilla?
- 56:40SPEAKER_00: I can just go down to the fucking gas station and get this for almost nothing.
- 56:46SPEAKER_00: But I think over time, they probably saw, right?
- 56:48SPEAKER_00: Mm-hmm.
- 56:48SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 56:49SPEAKER_00: Mm-hmm.
- 56:53SPEAKER_01: Yeah,
- 56:54SPEAKER_01: I think it's something that takes time,
- 56:56SPEAKER_01: but we need more projects that are putting this on the table.
- 57:05SPEAKER_01: I don't think that we are going to change, for example, the industry in Guatemala of tortillas,
- 57:15SPEAKER_01: I wish that the people that are consuming our products are making these questions
- 57:22SPEAKER_01: and are having more awareness of what they're eating.
- 57:28SPEAKER_01: And we have this also motivation to make more awareness and more awareness.
- 57:34SPEAKER_01: So we can maybe change just one person that are asking other questions,
- 57:43SPEAKER_01: that will be something that is good for us.
- 57:46SPEAKER_01: And the more projects that start doing that, maybe more in the times to come, we will see these changes.
- 57:58SPEAKER_01: especially from these new generations.
- 58:04SPEAKER_01: It's very important for them to know all this diversity and not to forget also what
- 58:16SPEAKER_01: their ancestors used to eat.
- 58:22SPEAKER_01: until now that that you exist that there were something that were sustaining um in
- 58:29SPEAKER_01: terms of of food on your ancestors so yeah it's it's a it's very difficult but i
- 58:37SPEAKER_01: think that it's possible to to make changes and like i think last week i wrote uh
- 58:44SPEAKER_00: debbie fadul and i told her i was um interviewing you that we were interviewing you
- 58:50SPEAKER_00: and i asked her
- 58:52SPEAKER_00: what I should ask you in one of the things she said was to ask you,
- 58:58SPEAKER_00: why do only women work at El Comalote?
- 59:05SPEAKER_01: Well,
- 59:06SPEAKER_01: in in Guatemala,
- 59:08SPEAKER_01: the tortilla making technique and process is something that it's a woman's territory,
- 59:17SPEAKER_01: like maybe
- 59:21SPEAKER_01: you can see a man doing tortillas something that you can find but it's not very
- 59:27SPEAKER_01: usual or in tortillas you won't see any any men so that's why we started just being
- 59:35SPEAKER_01: a woman and now we are a big group of just women we are now 12 women working in
- 59:44SPEAKER_01: in the tortilleria and it's very,
- 59:51SPEAKER_01: I'm very grateful for my,
- 59:53SPEAKER_01: for the team that we,
- 59:54SPEAKER_01: all the things that we are building together.
- 59:59SPEAKER_01: it's very satisfying to work together as women,
- 1:00:03SPEAKER_01: but there are also a lot of challenges because in terms of work,
- 1:00:12SPEAKER_01: women,
- 1:00:12SPEAKER_01: when they end their work at El Comalote,
- 1:00:16SPEAKER_01: they start the other work that is in their homes with their families.
- 1:00:22SPEAKER_01: So it's difficult to find this balance because now we have some
- 1:00:32SPEAKER_01: men added to the team uh but they don't have i see now like more clear with all
- 1:00:38SPEAKER_01: these differences because most of them go to their houses and they just go to you
- 1:00:44SPEAKER_01: know relax and the the work day it's end it's ended but for women it's not like
- 1:00:52SPEAKER_01: that
- 1:00:54SPEAKER_01: and they have a lot of responsibilities in their houses.
- 1:01:00SPEAKER_01: So that's something that we are working on in El Comalote
- 1:01:06SPEAKER_01: to have more flexibility in their times because they most of the time they have to
- 1:01:12SPEAKER_01: see for the children so they need more time they need different things that um the
- 1:01:20SPEAKER_01: men that worked with us don't need um that's something and
- 1:01:27SPEAKER_01: For me,
- 1:01:28SPEAKER_01: they have all my admiration and respect because they talking about resistance,
- 1:01:34SPEAKER_01: they have resist this handmade technique of making the tortillas that if you think
- 1:01:46SPEAKER_01: about it,
- 1:01:46SPEAKER_01: it's the way that
- 1:01:50SPEAKER_01: Thousands of years ago we were eating the tortillas like that and we still nowadays
- 1:01:55SPEAKER_01: eat the tortillas made by hand so it's something that it's not a It's something
- 1:02:02SPEAKER_01: that I admire but I also know that it's not just something like beautiful but it's
- 1:02:08SPEAKER_01: something that that includes a lot of political struggle
- 1:02:14SPEAKER_01: This resistance is something that you have to see also when you are eating a
- 1:02:21SPEAKER_01: tortilla because it's not just beautiful to see all these women working together
- 1:02:28SPEAKER_01: and doing the tortillas,
- 1:02:29SPEAKER_01: but it's something that represents a lot of struggle.
- 1:02:41SPEAKER_01: I was talking a few days ago with a sociologist and she said to me,
- 1:02:49SPEAKER_01: she's also a feminist,
- 1:02:50SPEAKER_01: and she said,
- 1:02:52SPEAKER_01: you know that tortillas are not well paid because the ones that are doing the
- 1:02:56SPEAKER_01: tortillas are women.
- 1:02:58SPEAKER_01: imagine if the ones that were making tortillas were men do you think that the price
- 1:03:04SPEAKER_01: will be the same and i was thinking like oh and i started thinking about also the
- 1:03:10SPEAKER_01: bakeries because here in guatemala bakeries are more just you can see more men like
- 1:03:16SPEAKER_01: working bakeries and you can see the the difference in price between bread and
- 1:03:21SPEAKER_01: tortilla even though the even though corn it's um
- 1:03:26SPEAKER_01: more expensive than the ingredients that you use to make bread.
- 1:03:33SPEAKER_01: So for me,
- 1:03:35SPEAKER_01: it's a very huge responsibility to have this project in where all the women are
- 1:03:46SPEAKER_01: working because
- 1:03:48SPEAKER_01: And especially because I'm a woman also,
- 1:03:51SPEAKER_01: so I want to make a safe place for them,
- 1:03:57SPEAKER_01: for me,
- 1:03:58SPEAKER_01: for my daughter.
- 1:03:59SPEAKER_01: She's also a woman.
- 1:04:02SPEAKER_01: And to help them have a more balanced life and to be able to...
- 1:04:11SPEAKER_01: have a well-paid salary for the job that they are doing to respect all this work
- 1:04:17SPEAKER_01: that they do so these are like something that also motivates me a lot um guides my
- 1:04:28SPEAKER_01: my work in el comalote it's not just the corn and that it's very important for us
- 1:04:34SPEAKER_01: because it's the the special ingredient that we use
- 1:04:38SPEAKER_01: but also their responsibility of having all these women working with me together as a team.
- 1:04:48SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 1:04:49SPEAKER_02: Yeah,
- 1:04:50SPEAKER_02: I was thinking,
- 1:04:51SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 1:04:55SPEAKER_02: again,
- 1:04:55SPEAKER_02: awareness of all the different lives,
- 1:04:59SPEAKER_02: obviously gender issues,
- 1:05:03SPEAKER_02: inequality,
- 1:05:04SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 1:05:04SPEAKER_02: the things we know.
- 1:05:06SPEAKER_02: make part of this complicated situation but i also think that because i was
- 1:05:16SPEAKER_02: thinking about this contradiction we we understand diversity when it's to our
- 1:05:24SPEAKER_02: service so we want more you know like more more foods more different types of so
- 1:05:31SPEAKER_02: our curiosity seems to work when it comes to that
- 1:05:34SPEAKER_02: But we reject diversity when it's about not availability or bananas that are not
- 1:05:42SPEAKER_02: perfect or,
- 1:05:43SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 1:05:44SPEAKER_02: beans that are not the same size or that are ugly because,
- 1:05:47SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 1:05:48SPEAKER_02: ugly in terms of what we have to find is beautiful and not.
- 1:05:54SPEAKER_02: So I think beyond that,
- 1:05:56SPEAKER_02: obviously inequality,
- 1:06:01SPEAKER_02: that lack of value we give to certain roles and the labor of women in this case,
- 1:06:08SPEAKER_02: I think it depends on how we imagine in the world.
- 1:06:13SPEAKER_02: If it's to our service, if it's like an anthropocentric way of saying it, then we are fine.
- 1:06:18SPEAKER_02: But if we have to understand that we are just one more thing that is part of the ecosystem,
- 1:06:25SPEAKER_02: then that's the shift.
- 1:06:27SPEAKER_02: I think that's the deepest shift we need to make apart from all these,
- 1:06:32SPEAKER_02: again,
- 1:06:33SPEAKER_02: complications with the human race.
- 1:06:35SPEAKER_02: But I think once we understand that,
- 1:06:38SPEAKER_02: I think it's easier to connect with the farmers,
- 1:06:43SPEAKER_02: to collaborate,
- 1:06:44SPEAKER_02: to value every single piece of all these complicated chains.
- 1:06:49SPEAKER_02: And I think, I don't know, it's a matter of time, but we all need to
- 1:06:55SPEAKER_02: I think take in that we are part of an ecosystem and just one more thing.
- 1:07:01SPEAKER_02: And how are we contributing to the ecosystem and know how the ecosystem serves us?
- 1:07:09SPEAKER_02: Because that's when we are perfectly fine with diversity and all that.
- 1:07:13SPEAKER_02: So I don't know.
- 1:07:15SPEAKER_02: I was just,
- 1:07:16SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 1:07:16SPEAKER_02: again,
- 1:07:16SPEAKER_02: I think Gabby is working on all this and that's the direction I think she's like
- 1:07:22SPEAKER_02: pointing to.
- 1:07:23SPEAKER_02: And I keep thinking how to echo that from our capability and understanding of
- 1:07:34SPEAKER_02: people that are doing much more than we do.
- 1:07:37SPEAKER_02: Yeah, there's a lot of questions.
- 1:07:39SPEAKER_02: A lot of things to think about and
- 1:07:55SPEAKER_00: try to do I don't know it seems overwhelming at times but then I see how something
- 1:08:00SPEAKER_00: like a tortilla shop can you know the big changes that can happen just from you
- 1:08:07SPEAKER_00: know trying to make a better tortilla and it makes me think that you know
- 1:08:13SPEAKER_02: anything's possible but at the same time you know on a happy note it's so simple so
- 1:08:19SPEAKER_02: beautiful I was thinking the other day seeing one of the documentaries
- 1:08:25SPEAKER_02: It's so simple and so fulfilling and filling.
- 1:08:29SPEAKER_02: A good tortilla made in the right way with the right corn.
- 1:08:34SPEAKER_02: You don't need much more than that.
- 1:08:35SPEAKER_00: No, they're amazing.
- 1:08:37SPEAKER_00: There's few things that taste better than a warm tortilla made from good corn.
- 1:08:44SPEAKER_00: It's like you really don't need anything else.
- 1:08:46SPEAKER_00: It's so perfect.
- 1:08:48SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 1:08:50SPEAKER_02: Yeah, exactly.
- 1:08:51SPEAKER_02: So the more we value that, then we need less.
- 1:08:58SPEAKER_01: You were talking about the documentary that... Yeah, the one from National Geographic that was then.
- 1:09:04SPEAKER_00: Oh yeah, I watched that too.
- 1:09:05SPEAKER_00: It was nice with you and Debbie.
- 1:09:07SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 1:09:11SPEAKER_01: Yes, I think it's... Sometimes we like to complicate.
- 1:09:19SPEAKER_01: But food, I think we are born to eat.
- 1:09:24SPEAKER_01: Like food, it's basically, it's so simple at the end.
- 1:09:36SPEAKER_01: We have turned all the process of growing food so difficult because when you think
- 1:09:43SPEAKER_01: about cultivating something,
- 1:09:45SPEAKER_01: you start thinking like,
- 1:09:46SPEAKER_01: oh my God,
- 1:09:47SPEAKER_01: like how I'm going to grow corn and all the process.
- 1:09:50SPEAKER_01: And yes, it's a lot of process and all that.
- 1:09:52SPEAKER_01: but it's simple at the end because it's something that it's meant to be simple
- 1:09:58SPEAKER_01: because other ways we won't be here we like we exist because we eat since every
- 1:10:06SPEAKER_01: like since the world's world we've been eating so
- 1:10:11SPEAKER_01: I think that all this chain that now supplies the food,
- 1:10:17SPEAKER_01: I think it's complicated because,
- 1:10:21SPEAKER_01: I don't know,
- 1:10:22SPEAKER_01: like because of the mass,
- 1:10:28SPEAKER_01: it's consumption,
- 1:10:29SPEAKER_01: yes,
- 1:10:29SPEAKER_01: but
- 1:10:31SPEAKER_01: also like trying to to say like okay um it's like saying like i'm going to sell
- 1:10:37SPEAKER_01: tortillas and i want to sell tortillas to the whole world and it will be just my
- 1:10:44SPEAKER_01: tortillas like anyone can eat other tortilla
- 1:10:47SPEAKER_01: rather than the El Comalote's tortilla, just mine.
- 1:10:50SPEAKER_01: So I think that's where everything is complicated because then I will start making something.
- 1:10:56SPEAKER_01: So other people that are making tortillas, I want them to forget how to do it.
- 1:11:01SPEAKER_01: I just want to have the knowledge just me and everyone else, no.
- 1:11:10SPEAKER_01: But at the end, it's not difficult.
- 1:11:13SPEAKER_01: It's not difficult if the food is just for your family.
- 1:11:17SPEAKER_01: what it's difficult is to have this huge chain to give food to everyone.
- 1:11:24SPEAKER_01: That nowadays we live in this system because we are not any more responsible of
- 1:11:29SPEAKER_01: cultivating our food because years ago,
- 1:11:32SPEAKER_01: everything,
- 1:11:33SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:11:34SPEAKER_01: we went apart from this process.
- 1:11:36SPEAKER_01: But I think it's very simple.
- 1:11:38SPEAKER_01: If you just put, like, I like to say chiles.
- 1:11:43SPEAKER_01: Here in Guatemala, we have chiltepe, that it's a little chile.
- 1:11:46SPEAKER_01: chile that we use a lot and it's native from here so you just if you are eating
- 1:11:52SPEAKER_01: this chile you can preserve one and you can put it in you know the earth and it
- 1:11:59SPEAKER_01: will start growing and then you have chile chiltepa in your house without doing
- 1:12:04SPEAKER_01: anything i have it in my garden and i don't put
- 1:12:08SPEAKER_01: even water because it's because it's native from here.
- 1:12:11SPEAKER_01: So it notes that when it's adapt to the rainy season in Guatemala, and I have this Chile in my house.
- 1:12:20SPEAKER_01: So it's not something that it's meant to be difficult.
- 1:12:24SPEAKER_01: And I think, as you say, I think we are wrong by thinking that it's difficult.
- 1:12:30SPEAKER_01: But
- 1:12:31SPEAKER_01: But no, it should be very simple.
- 1:12:33SPEAKER_01: And maybe we can start with these little things that we can have in our houses to see that food grows.
- 1:12:43SPEAKER_01: And it's something very beautiful when it's something that you cultivated from your hands.
- 1:12:52SPEAKER_00: Just planting seeds.
- 1:12:55SPEAKER_00: It's such a profound statement, act.
- 1:13:02SPEAKER_00: It's a metaphor for so many things and just a little seed and it can have a giant effect.
- 1:13:13SPEAKER_00: Well, Amanda, Abby, thank you so much.
- 1:13:17SPEAKER_00: It was a pleasure speaking with you.
- 1:13:21SPEAKER_03: Thank you so much.
- 1:13:21SPEAKER_00: And we'll see you in Antigua sometime.
- 1:13:26SPEAKER_01: Yes.
- 1:13:27SPEAKER_01: Please come to visit.
- 1:13:31SPEAKER_01: Thank you for the time.
- 1:13:34SPEAKER_01: For me, it's also I like these spaces because I also take the time to
- 1:13:43SPEAKER_01: not to think about these things because when you are in the,
- 1:13:47SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:13:47SPEAKER_01: working every day,
- 1:13:48SPEAKER_01: sometimes you forget to have this boss and to talk about this topic.
- 1:13:53SPEAKER_01: So thank you for, for having me.
- 1:13:56SPEAKER_01: And you're always welcome here in Antigua and El Comalote also.
- 1:14:01SPEAKER_01: Hope to, to meet you, Juliana also.
- 1:14:04SPEAKER_01: All right.
- 1:14:04SPEAKER_01: See you soon.
- 1:14:06SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 1:14:11SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
- 1:14:12SPEAKER_01: See you soon, guys.
- 1:14:13SPEAKER_01: Bye bye.
- 1:14:14SPEAKER_00: Thank you, everyone, for listening.
- 1:14:16SPEAKER_00: I hope you enjoyed that episode with Gabriela Perdomo from El Comalote in Antigua, Guatemala.
- 1:14:24SPEAKER_00: Thanks to Juliana Duque, my co-host.
- 1:14:28SPEAKER_00: As always, thanks to Pat Buzzard, who made the music to the show.
- 1:14:36SPEAKER_00: He's a rock star in Columbus, Ohio.
- 1:14:39SPEAKER_00: He's awesome.
- 1:14:40SPEAKER_00: Look him up if you're ever in Ohio.
- 1:14:43SPEAKER_00: And that's it.
- 1:14:44SPEAKER_00: Subscribe to the newsletter.
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- 1:14:49SPEAKER_00: Share us, like us.
- 1:14:50SPEAKER_00: Every little bit helps.
- 1:14:51SPEAKER_00: See you soon.