Latest / Chef's PSA Podcast / Chef Charlie Trotter Documentary and Line Cook Survival Ep.22
Transcript
- 0:01Hello chefs. You're listening to chefs, PSA
- 0:03podcast. I'm your host Andre de terre.
- 0:05On today's episode we're going to talk about Charlie Trotter
- 0:08his legacy. I just recently saw the
- 0:10documentary and I want to give you my thoughts and opinions and
- 0:13how Chef Charlie Trotter affected my up.
- 0:16And coming years as a chef stay tuned.
- 0:31So before we get into Charlie Trotter and the documentary love
- 0:34Charlie the rise and fall of Charlie Trotter.
- 0:37Let me give you a brief update on some things that I've been up
- 0:39to this past week. It's Thanksgiving.
- 0:41So obviously I ate, maybe I probably too much.
- 0:45I didn't I didn't eat a ton anyway.
- 0:47Turkey stuffing. I like a traditional
- 0:49Thanksgiving. I don't get crazy with it and
- 0:54honestly sometimes I overdo it and this year I kind of pared
- 0:56back a little bit, I only made a couple of items because I didn't
- 0:59want to have a ton of leftovers. The reason is is because then
- 1:02I'll eat like shit to many days afterwards.
- 1:05So I cut the amount of items that I prepared had fewer
- 1:09leftovers. And it actually worked out.
- 1:10Well, I'm recording this on a Saturday after Thanksgiving and
- 1:14I think the only thing I have left is a little bit of
- 1:15stuffing, so that's good. Anyway, Finished up the line.
- 1:20Cook survival manual that book is out.
- 1:22You should go get it. It's a little bit different than
- 1:26my other books. So culinary leadership
- 1:29fundamentals is really geared towards chefs and Sous chefs and
- 1:33people that are new and position line.
- 1:35Cook survival manual. It's really geared towards all
- 1:40Cooks. In the kitchen, whether you're a
- 1:42prep cook, a line cook, a banquet and cook a room service
- 1:44cook. It's just line, cook sounded
- 1:46better right. I think people will get it a
- 1:47little bit more. If they understand that, it's
- 1:49really for Cooks, but it's basically the do's and don'ts
- 1:54and some general practices that you could use as a line cook.
- 1:58My first book, how not to be the biggest idiot in the kitchen.
- 2:01I know I've talked about this before, I wrote that really as a
- 2:04joke for the echo chamber of Chef friends that I have, it
- 2:08wasn't intended to be for more than maybe 20 people.
- 2:12And now when I go back and read that, I realized how there's a
- 2:14lot of there's a lot of things in there that I don't
- 2:17necessarily support Fort for a mass audience.
- 2:19I support them. More for specific types of
- 2:22kitchens with line cook survival manual.
- 2:25I think these are more applicable to every single
- 2:27kitchen that exists out there. I think there's some of the best
- 2:31practices that I've accumulated over my career and one of the
- 2:35things that I left out in the book is I was at an event and
- 2:40really great chef was one of the panelists at the event that I
- 2:44was at. I was the moderator he was a
- 2:45panelist and Chef to bail Bristol Joe.
- 2:48Joseph from, he's part of the Ameren where I grew up here in
- 2:51Austin. But he was talking about why we
- 2:56need to do better as chefs and in this industry.
- 2:58And it really resonated with me and I wish I could remember the
- 3:00stats that he shared, but it was something along the lines of of
- 3:04the amount of people that go to culinary school.
- 3:05I don't remember what the percent was that he said don't
- 3:08finish culinary school and of the people that graduate, how
- 3:11many people drop off and don't last more than a few years as a
- 3:15cook in the in the kitchen and then of That remained, how much
- 3:20even fewer of those make it to become a chef and that was
- 3:25really a big part of the inspiration of why I decided to
- 3:27write the book because I thought to myself, I need to do
- 3:30something that I could. I need to do something that I
- 3:33could support young cooks that are coming into the industry, to
- 3:38give them a better chance at success, right?
- 3:40Because it is a difficult industry and and I could go on
- 3:44and on about all the difficulties that we face as
- 3:46chefs as line Cooks, From you know, hard work to, you know,
- 3:50difficult work environments to the heat to the physical stress
- 3:53that we go through to the mental stress to the chaos that we deal
- 3:56with. In the kitchen, we could talk
- 3:58about, you know, the difficulties of the wage Gap in
- 4:01kitchens, you know, from from entry-level Cooks, when you get
- 4:06right out of school and you have all the student.
- 4:08Anyway, there's a lot of difficulty that goes into being
- 4:11a cook and if I could make it a little bit easier for you to
- 4:15navigate through that, and shorten your learning, In curve.
- 4:19Then that's what I'm going to try and do I really want to help
- 4:21chefs at something that I know I've talked about this before.
- 4:23It is my job chefs, PSA is what I do, but my real job is I work
- 4:28with chefs and Cooks through mentoring programs and things
- 4:31like that. That's, that's really how I make
- 4:34my money. But anyway, that's neither here.
- 4:36Nor there line cook survival manual is out.
- 4:39Go get it. Now on to love Charlie, which I
- 4:44was reluctant to watch it because I don't know.
- 4:48I don't really like watching a lot of food shows.
- 4:50I watch, I really don't even watch that much TV to be honest
- 4:55with you. I probably went before I'm going
- 4:58to bed. I'll put on a little something
- 4:59but maybe 30 minutes if that but love Charlie one of my friends
- 5:03reached out to me and said you should watch it.
- 5:05I said, okay, I'll I'll I'll give it a chance.
- 5:09And I got to tell you, I don't want to spoil the documentary
- 5:13for people that haven't seen it. So I won't talk about anything
- 5:16that isn't public knowledge, right?
- 5:19But the documentary is great, because it really showcases who
- 5:23Charlie Trotter was. And it really illustrates a lot
- 5:27of things that resonated with me as a chef and that I think a lot
- 5:30of chefs should pay attention to as they are in their career
- 5:34growing as chefs. When I was a cook.
- 5:37I remember, you know, the big chefs back then.
- 5:40This is mid-90s. I remember I went to my chefs
- 5:44office and you know, I worked in this Italian restaurant and my
- 5:48chef. I My chef to be like the guy
- 5:50that walks on water. He worked in San Francisco, and
- 5:54he, you know, and that era and he worked under all the cool
- 5:56chefs back then. And I remember I walked into his
- 5:59office and he said, Andre, do you know who the best chef in
- 6:02the world is? And I said, Paul Prudhomme.
- 6:04Because, honestly, that, that was like the conversations like
- 6:07Wolfgang, Puck, Paul Prudhomme, maybe, Mark Miller, those were
- 6:09the chef's of my era when I was coming up when I was just coming
- 6:12into the industry. So my first answer was, when he
- 6:14said 100, you know, who the best chef in the world is I said Paul
- 6:17Prudhomme and he said No, there's a guy called Charlie
- 6:21Trotter and he is the best chef in the country.
- 6:23And I remember thinking, like, holy shit who is Charlie Trotter
- 6:27and he, let me borrow one of Charlie Trotter's books.
- 6:30I think it was the very first one that has like, a maroon
- 6:33cover. It's called Charlie Trotter and
- 6:35I remember, I saw that book and I was like, what the fuck is
- 6:38this? Like my brain was just melting
- 6:41out of my ears when I saw the food.
- 6:42That was in the Charlie Trotter cookbook.
- 6:44I had never seen food. So beautiful.
- 6:47And for people that don't know like when you Cookbooks now with
- 6:50the beautiful photography and all that, that didn't really
- 6:52exist before the Charlie Trotter cookbook the food books, back
- 6:57then we're not as beautiful. So when I saw this book and his
- 7:01style of played in the colors in the style of Photography, it was
- 7:03just like light years more advanced to than everything else
- 7:07that existed on the market at the time.
- 7:09And I just remember thinking, like, holy shit, who is this
- 7:12guy? I need to know more, I need to,
- 7:13I need to learn everything and I remember you know, his books
- 7:17were expensive to me back then I was a I was A line cook.
- 7:19You know, people tell me today, like it was line Cooks got paid
- 7:24shit back that I think I was making like, five dollars an
- 7:26hour like 525, it's not making any money.
- 7:30I remember when I got my first paycheck as a line cook, it was
- 7:34like like 175 bucks or something like that for the, for the
- 7:39two-week period. And I remember thought I was so
- 7:41cool and I went to the bank to go deposit, my check and I was
- 7:44like, you know, the bank teller was cute girl and I was like,
- 7:48I'm gonna Flex Because I got $175 she's going to be so
- 7:51impressed with me. Anyway, that was that was my
- 7:55Flex. I was flexing, my 175 dollar
- 7:58paycheck as a line cook thinking that I was rich back.
- 8:01Then anyway. Yeah, subject for another day
- 8:06possibly Charlie Trotter, back to Charlie Trotter back to the
- 8:09documentary. Charlie Trotter was huge.
- 8:12He was instrumental in a lot of people's career and everyone
- 8:16wanted to cook like him. Everyone was buying his books.
- 8:18I had two of his books which I still have.
- 8:21I have the maroon Charlie Trotter cookbook and then he had
- 8:24another wasn't part of his Series.
- 8:27So he had vegetables and meat and game Seafood.
- 8:32Maybe he didn't have meat and game, he was called game.
- 8:34But anyway, he had, he had the green book.
- 8:36The Blue Book. The maroon book and then he put
- 8:40out another book called kitchen sessions which was part of his
- 8:44PBS show. And so I had that book because
- 8:46it was a little less expensive and I could afford it and I
- 8:49cooked out of that book when I was a line cook.
- 8:52All the specials that I used to say where my original ideas were
- 8:55just his. You know, I have a chef's PSA
- 8:59where it says before you show your Chef, the amazing dish that
- 9:04you just came up with, make sure they don't have the same
- 9:06cookbook. The Did that PSA?
- 9:08Is because I did that, you know, stealing dishes out of Charlie
- 9:11Trotter's, cookbook, back then, and then showing it to my chef
- 9:14like, hey, look at this dish. I came up with and he knew full
- 9:16well, like he had the book, he's like, you didn't come up with
- 9:18this shit but, you know, so I was just a dumb kid back then,
- 9:23but that's how much of an impact Charlie Trotter had on me.
- 9:25Like I said, he were, he walked on water and one of the biggest
- 9:29regrets I have is in one of my trips to Chicago during multiple
- 9:36visits. I had an opportunity tunity to
- 9:38eat at Charlie Trotter's on three different occasions and
- 9:40all three times. I said, no, let's go somewhere
- 9:42else. So I think one time I went to go
- 9:44eat at Blackbird instead, another time I edit l20, which
- 9:49you know, is referenced in the documentary, it was back.
- 9:51Then one of the, only two, three Michelin star restaurants in
- 9:54Chicago, when it was a Linnea and L200 and then Charlie
- 9:58Trotter had two stars. So I was like, now, let's go to
- 10:01the three-star place, we ended up eating at l20.
- 10:05Which by the way, badass kitchen it's the only kitchen that I've
- 10:08ever been in where they had silicon mats on the stainless
- 10:14steel and it was a pristine kitchen was really really well.
- 10:20Designed kitchen and Laurent Gras used to be the chef there
- 10:23and I remember once or not, once I remember he had a Blog that
- 10:27really detailed his thought processes and to how he designed
- 10:30the kitchen and why he designed it that way.
- 10:32It was really well written. And I used to love that blog
- 10:34because I It inspired me so much and to running my own kitchen,
- 10:37some of the things that he was doing.
- 10:39But anyway, that's neither here, nor there.
- 10:40L2o was a great restaurant. One of the best meals I've had
- 10:42in my life, but back to Charlie Trotter, I didn't go eat at
- 10:45Charlie Trotter's because I went to L200, or I went to
- 10:47blackbirder, I went to another restaurant and, you know,
- 10:50shortly after that, he closed the restaurant, and then he
- 10:53passed away, and I was never able to try his food, but coming
- 10:57up, he was such a legend an icon.
- 11:00And, you know, this is back in the day when chefs like, Charlie
- 11:03Trotter or Thomas Keller, you know, they walked on water.
- 11:06Still think Thomas Keller, walks on water.
- 11:08But back then, Charlie Trotter was like, you know, culinary
- 11:13culinary, royalty is really what he was, and I had always wanted
- 11:17to work in his kitchen, but I'd ever, you know, the opportunity
- 11:20to move to Chicago. Just never presented itself and
- 11:22I never really pursued it with enough intent to try and get in
- 11:25his kitchen. But so many great chefs came
- 11:29through that kitchen. You know, Grant Achatz went
- 11:30through there, Graham Elliot a lot of really great A lot of
- 11:37chefs that I know have gone through there and when I've
- 11:39spoken to them, like, what was it like, what was it like to
- 11:41work for Charlie Trotter? And the answer is cryptic.
- 11:44They said, it's everything that you think it is and I'm not sure
- 11:48what that means. Because, you know, Charlie
- 11:49Trotter had a reputation of also, being a very hard Chef to
- 11:52work for, and the day of hard chefs, he was considered the
- 11:56hard Chef. So you know, we all know what
- 11:59those days were like when we hear the stories and he was
- 12:02like, the guy that was considered the hardest to work.
- 12:04Or so I could only use my imagination of what that was
- 12:07like, but the guy was a Legend and his food was on such a high
- 12:12level that I don't think that people really understand how
- 12:18much he liked. Gave crutches to the entire
- 12:26culinary industry with his books.
- 12:28They were just the way he played it.
- 12:30The ingredients that he used, you know, he was the first one
- 12:32really doing that vegetable Centric food before anyone was
- 12:35even thinking about it. He was just way ahead of his
- 12:38time, but like, a lot of chefs and this is This is something
- 12:43that I've spoken about on other podcasts when especially, you
- 12:47know, if you want to go back and listen to sacrifices of being a
- 12:50chef, I touch on this a little bit more, is that, you know,
- 12:53there's a life cycle for chefs. As you know, you you ascend, you
- 12:58have your moment where you're on top and then there's kind of
- 13:02this decline in your career, where you're on, you know, on
- 13:05the bottom. And that's a tough place to be
- 13:09and Charlie Trotter wasn't exempt from that, where he was,
- 13:13you know, culinary royalty. And then towards the end of his
- 13:17life, he was kind of the chef that was forgotten and not
- 13:21really given to the respect that he deserved for.
- 13:25How much he shaped the way that we cook as chefs good and bad,
- 13:30right? So I'm not going to sit here and
- 13:32say the guy's a saint, but I will say that having never
- 13:37worked With him, he definitely inspired me and he was a big
- 13:41part of my culinary development, aside tangent.
- 13:44Is I remember, once I made a dish, I don't remember what the
- 13:48dish was, but I used to make so many dishes out of his cookbook
- 13:51in the restaurant where I worked and I would present him to my
- 13:53chef and there was one that I think it was like a risotto is a
- 13:58risotto. But it wasn't made with rice.
- 13:59It was like, I think it was made with butternut squash.
- 14:02So I brunoise the butternut squash and cooked it in the
- 14:05style of risotto using the risotto method.
- 14:07And I remember I presented it to my chef because I wanted to run
- 14:11it on the menu and he said, you know, what the fuck is this?
- 14:15I said it's butternut squash risotto with curry oil because I
- 14:18think Charlie Trotter was big back then with having the
- 14:20multicolored oils I said with curry oil and chive oil or
- 14:23whatever is was like, yellow and green and my chef looks at me
- 14:26and he says, but it's not risotto, I said, but it's
- 14:29butternut squash risotto. He's like, but there's no rice
- 14:31in it and I said, but it's made in the style of risotto.
- 14:35He says, well then call it butternut Wash cooked like
- 14:38risotto but it's not risotto and I said, well, Charlie Trotter
- 14:41calls a risotto. He says, you ain't fucking
- 14:43Charlie Trotter and I remembered that argument because yesterday
- 14:48like, like first of all, this is a Mediterranean restaurant.
- 14:50We have no business serving this.
- 14:53You know, I was trying to force things on the menu when I was
- 14:55young because you know, I wanted to cook that style of food.
- 14:57I want to cook just like Charlie Trotter but I wasn't the only
- 15:00one like that. I mean so many people were doing
- 15:02that. There was no Instagram back then
- 15:06there was no Facebook or you know YouTube or any of the
- 15:09social media platforms that we have today.
- 15:11So you waited for the next cookbook to come out so you
- 15:14everyone would rush to the to the bookstore to get the newest
- 15:17greatest celebrity chef cookbook so that you could steal ideas
- 15:22and hopefully get those dishes on your menu before someone else
- 15:24did. So you could, you know front and
- 15:26claim it like you invented it yourself.
- 15:28So it was just a different time like no one really knew and
- 15:32liked where were What where the food was coming from?
- 15:36It wasn't like today, like everyone knows like, oh, you saw
- 15:38this. Here, you saw that there, we all
- 15:40follow the same steps on social media.
- 15:41We all see the same food, we all get the same ideas, but back
- 15:44then, it was like, there were no ideas and then boom.
- 15:47New book, you got 60, new ideas, depending on how many recipes
- 15:50were in the book. It's just a different time.
- 15:53I enjoyed coming up as a chef in that era because our I want to
- 15:57Sarah learning was just a little bit slower.
- 16:00We weren't as overwhelmed as chefs are now with the amount of
- 16:04Trends and techniques that are just constantly bombarding you
- 16:07as a chef it was a little bit slower so you spent more time on
- 16:11what was in front of you at the moment.
- 16:13So a good example, I would say is if the food Trend was
- 16:17risotto, let's just say yeah and everyone was going all out on
- 16:20risotto and all things risotto for a number of years.
- 16:23This like you learned how to make really good risotto because
- 16:26that's All you knew for the next, you know, for the next
- 16:29year until the next new trend came out in a new cookbook where
- 16:32today it's like, okay, we're going to saturate the internet
- 16:35with this technique of that technique and that technique.
- 16:37And you don't spend a lot of time on these techniques because
- 16:39you learn it really quick and you move on to the next one.
- 16:41You move on to the next one before.
- 16:42You've really fully mastered that specific technique Anyway,
- 16:48I would say if you have the opportunity to go watch, Love
- 16:51Charlie four chefs like me. He was a hero.
- 16:56What he did in his career, it humanized him a lot, you know, I
- 16:59don't want to sit here and say that he was a bad man or that he
- 17:04was a good man. I think everyone could make
- 17:06their own judgments. I'm not, I'm not here to judge
- 17:09him. I'm just here to appreciate what
- 17:13he did for me. Appreciate what he did for so
- 17:15many other chefs. He was an inspiration.
- 17:16And I never worked for him. So my opinion of him is always
- 17:20going to be a little bit skewed versus maybe people who did work
- 17:22for him. But I want to pay respect and
- 17:27for all the chef's that came before me and thank them for
- 17:31what they did and helping shape the industry that we have now
- 17:35and taught us and mentored us and inspired us to be like them,
- 17:40I guess? Who knows?
- 17:41Anyway. That's it for today.
- 17:45If you want to support the show, follow chefs PSA on all social
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- 17:55Culinary leadership fundamentals, how not to be the
- 17:57biggest idiot in the kitchen and now the line cook survival
- 18:00manual. There's Merchant ships, PS
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- 18:04If you're interested in the mentoring Services you can find
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- 18:10See you next week and hit the porno music.