Latest / The Science of Skin / A Look Back at the Skincare Trends in 2024

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A Look Back at the Skincare Trends in 2024 · The Science of Skin

• 0:09
  SPEAKER_03: Hello, and welcome to Skin Care Confidential, the podcast supporting the Science of Skin Care Summit, an annual education event focused on skincare only.
• 0:19
  SPEAKER_03: It is occurring September 5th through the 7th in Austin, Texas, in 2025.
• 0:24
  SPEAKER_03: The registration will soon be available on our website, Science of SkincareSummit.com.
• 0:28
  SPEAKER_03: My name is Dr.
• 0:29
  SPEAKER_03: Ted Lane.
• 0:30
  SPEAKER_03: I am a co-founder and co-director of the Science of Skincare Summit.
• 0:34
  SPEAKER_03: I am here with my co-founder and co-director, Dr.
• 0:37
  SPEAKER_03: Patty Ferris.
• 0:38
  SPEAKER_03: Hey Patty.
• 0:38
  SPEAKER_03: Co-partner in crime.
• 0:40
  SPEAKER_03: There you go.
• 0:41
  SPEAKER_03: And we decided to do a year in review for 2024 and then a year looking forward for 2025, all in one podcast.
• 0:50
  SPEAKER_03: Ambitious, but I think we can do it.
• 0:52
  SPEAKER_02: I'm sure we're up to the task.
• 0:54
  SPEAKER_02: So let's take a look in the rearview mirror.
• 0:56
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, we learned a lot of things this year, I think, about the skincare industry and sort of the direction that they're going.
• 1:03
  SPEAKER_02: I think you would agree with me probably that one of the top things is regenerative.
• 1:08
  SPEAKER_02: Technologies being used in skincare to address the visible signs of aging.
• 1:14
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, definitely regenerative/slash longevity is seems to be one of the big themes as we've kind of gone through the last half of 2024, gotten a lot of acceleration into 2025 as well.
• 1:27
  SPEAKER_03: Uh, you know, we included that in in our summit this year.
• 1:30
  SPEAKER_03: We had um really impressive PhD scientists speaking about their work that they're doing within their companies, whether it's exosomes or focusing on mitochondrial DNA or focusing on stem cell exhaustion, uh, cellular senescence, all of that is just gaining so much steam as we head into the new year.
• 1:51
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I think it's sort of interesting, Ted, because as we learn more about the pathogenesis of aging, which I happen to be studying right now because I'm writing a paper, and it's a subject I think I know a lot about, but I for sure don't know near enough because the science is advancing so quickly.
• 2:07
  SPEAKER_02: And I think we're seeing a little bit of a catch up where we understand things we didn't used to understand, but now we need to get to technologies, biotechnologies primarily, to address those issues.
• 2:20
  SPEAKER_02: It's very exciting.
• 2:21
  SPEAKER_02: And I thought the regenerative session was one of the highlights of the meeting for sure.
• 2:25
  SPEAKER_03: Gosh, there's just so much promise now as we understand the hallmarks of aging and start applying it more fulsomely to medicine, right?
• 2:33
  SPEAKER_03: I think anti-aging medicine has been on the sidelines of mainstream and it is steadily moving towards the center of mainstream medicine.
• 2:42
  SPEAKER_03: Um, in particular cellular senescence, because I know that there's quite a few large and very small pharmaceutical companies that are focused on that senescence cell as probably being one of the etiologic factors of inflammatory skin disease as well.
• 2:57
  SPEAKER_03: So I think we're going to see that theme not only in the aesthetic space and skincare, but also into the pharma space.
• 3:05
  SPEAKER_03: And so it behooves everybody listening to really keep your ear to the ground in regards to cellular senescence in particular, because it's going to be a huge focus of attention in all areas of dermatology.
• 3:18
  SPEAKER_02: Agree 100%.
• 3:19
  SPEAKER_02: Another thing I think we're seeing is AI really coming into skincare.
• 3:25
  SPEAKER_02: You know, that level of engagement that you get when you're using artificial intelligence just really, I think, allows us to personalize or hyperpersonalize skincare.
• 3:37
  SPEAKER_02: And as AI gets better, and we we're seeing some companies, you know, doing some really exciting things in that arena, we begin to see the potential of it for aesthetic medicine in general, procedures, neurotoxins, fillers, how to engage our patients with their journey and their skincare journey as well.
• 3:57
  SPEAKER_02: I think that's super exciting, and a lot of major consumer companies are using it now.
• 4:02
  SPEAKER_03: It's really hard to understand the potential of AI in our space because it almost seems limitless.
• 4:09
  SPEAKER_03: And so, how do you take something like that, which has so much potential and kind of focus it in on capabilities and solutions, you know, as a company, I would just find that very difficult.
• 4:22
  SPEAKER_03: So kudos to those that are really trying to figure out how to use it to for both drug discovery and and formulations as well as personalization, marketing, uh analysis of skin.
• 4:37
  SPEAKER_03: There's just so many.
• 4:39
  SPEAKER_02: Every facet of the cosmetic industry and business can be affected by it.
• 4:44
  SPEAKER_02: It's incredible.
• 4:45
  SPEAKER_04: Yeah.
• 4:45
  SPEAKER_02: I think we saw some other interesting things this year, a lot of multitasking products coming into the marketplace.
• 4:52
  SPEAKER_02: Um, I think consumers really like this.
• 4:54
  SPEAKER_02: You know, the idea that you can have something that maybe is a cosmetic enhancement, but also at the same time is changing the physiology of your skin, rejuvenating the skin from the inside, that's pretty exciting.
• 5:06
  SPEAKER_03: Well, I totally agree with that.
• 5:07
  SPEAKER_03: I call those the Swiss Army knife products because they can just do so many things.
• 5:11
  SPEAKER_03: And and I think, again, hearkening back to the regenerative um ingredients that we spoke about just a few minutes ago, we're moving away from, in my view, we're moving away from some of the legacy real foundational ingredients of skin care that we've relied on, such as retinoids, for example.
• 5:28
  SPEAKER_03: And we're able to do a lot of what retinoids do without the retinization, without the possible side effects of that ingredient by utilizing these peptides, exosomes, all different growth factors, all different ingredients that are able to signal and or effect change in and of themselves without causing the kind of side effects that we're used to.
• 5:53
  SPEAKER_03: And I think that's also a big leap in everyone's mind, understanding that regenerative ingredients are not just slowing the aging process in the future, they actually are causing change with their use such that they are they are anti-aging as well as pre-aging at the same time.
• 6:09
  SPEAKER_02: And I was just going to mention pre-aging, the whole notion of starting sooner rather than later.
• 6:16
  SPEAKER_02: Collagen banking, which is a very big trendy thing among the Gen Zs and the younger consumers, is just the notion that if you build up your collagen and you keep your stores boosted, that you can maybe alleviate some of the things going down the line.
• 6:33
  SPEAKER_02: Pre-aging, I think, is also something that's trending.
• 6:35
  SPEAKER_02: I think you're going to hear a lot more about pre-aging.
• 6:39
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, and and that is such great news because we know how many of our youngsters, whether they're, you know, teens or even preteens up into the early 20s are going to stores and buying multiple different products.
• 6:50
  SPEAKER_03: Although I've I've heard from different retailers that's slowing down a bit.
• 6:54
  SPEAKER_03: Um, but now if we could just get them to focus on the products that were really, you know, make sense for them at this point in their lives, which to your point is let's just maintain what you got right now.
• 7:07
  SPEAKER_02: I think you can maintain and prevent.
• 7:09
  SPEAKER_02: You know, they're very interested in prevention, although the American Academy of Dermatology survey, I think it was conducted maybe last year, didn't show that Gen Z really are embracing sunscreens as much as I think we would like to see them embracing them.
• 7:24
  SPEAKER_02: There seems to be sort of a disconnect between what happens when you go in the sun and what the result of that is.
• 7:29
  SPEAKER_02: It was very interesting data.
• 7:32
  SPEAKER_02: But there's that's an opportunity for education because preservation is so important.
• 7:37
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, we can, you know, give a nudge to the fibroblast and say, hey, turn on and do more good things.
• 7:43
  SPEAKER_02: But in the end, we've got to prevent collagen breakdown and destruction of the skin.
• 7:49
  SPEAKER_03: Makes me wonder if we should just rebrand sunscreens and not call them sunscreens anymore.
• 7:53
  SPEAKER_02: What are we gonna what are we gonna call them?
• 7:55
  SPEAKER_03: Anti-aging serums or anti-aging lotions or something like that, which may be a little bit more sexier marketing.
• 8:02
  SPEAKER_02: I've always said the best way to get someone to use a sunscreen is to tell them their skin's gonna look old.
• 8:06
  SPEAKER_02: That's the best thing to tell them.
• 8:08
  SPEAKER_02: Don't ever tell them they're gonna have skin cancer because these young kids don't care.
• 8:12
  SPEAKER_02: It's so far down the line.
• 8:14
  SPEAKER_02: That's an interesting idea.
• 8:16
  SPEAKER_02: Well, we're seeing multi-purpose products with sunscreens with antioxidants in them, for example, and other beneficial skin-beneficial ingredients.
• 8:24
  SPEAKER_02: So I'd I love to see those pairings as well.
• 8:26
  SPEAKER_02: And a lot of companies are looking at that.
• 8:28
  SPEAKER_02: And speaking of sunscreens, aren't we about to get a new one in 2025?
• 8:32
  SPEAKER_03: You know, there are a couple of really interesting innovations in the sunscreens.
• 8:35
  SPEAKER_03: First of all, you're exactly right.
• 8:36
  SPEAKER_03: There's a filter that has been under review by the FDA for the last two decades, and we are hoping to see it approved in 2025.
• 8:46
  SPEAKER_03: Um, obviously, the sooner the better.
• 8:48
  SPEAKER_03: It is a chemical sunscreen filter.
• 8:50
  SPEAKER_03: It has a longer spectrum of protection.
• 8:53
  SPEAKER_03: It's been around, like I said, for at least 20 years outside of the United States.
• 8:57
  SPEAKER_03: So so, in terms of efficacy and safety, we have tons of data to support its use.
• 9:01
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and this is I don't think any dermatologist would disagree that it is about darn time for us to have something new.
• 9:08
  SPEAKER_03: 20 years.
• 9:09
  SPEAKER_02: 20 years in the waiting.
• 9:10
  SPEAKER_02: It's unbelievable.
• 9:12
  SPEAKER_03: What are we doing?
• 9:12
  SPEAKER_03: I don't know.
• 9:14
  SPEAKER_03: So so that is really exciting, and we'll have more information about that at next year's summit, I'm sure.
• 9:19
  SPEAKER_03: Um I'm trying to get a guest to talk about that on the podcast also.
• 9:23
  SPEAKER_03: So hopefully I'll get some more information for everybody in the next month or two.
• 9:26
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I think that's super exciting.
• 9:28
  SPEAKER_02: We heard a little bit about it at the meeting, and so we're all waiting with bated breath on that.
• 9:33
  SPEAKER_02: Talk to me about something you and I were chatting about on the phone the other day, polynucleotides and that whole area, which I didn't know anything about until you were explaining it to me.
• 9:45
  SPEAKER_02: I was wondering what the salmon sperm craze was all about.
• 9:50
  SPEAKER_02: Super interesting.
• 9:51
  SPEAKER_03: You know, polynucleotides are short chains of nucleotides, right?
• 9:55
  SPEAKER_03: They're part of the DNA.
• 9:56
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and and as amino acids, they they could serve as building blocks.
• 10:01
  SPEAKER_03: We think about those as peptides in terms of uh, you know, short chains of amino acids as well.
• 10:05
  SPEAKER_03: I'm learning more about them.
• 10:07
  SPEAKER_03: It's honestly I I knew about them because of uh a company that makes a lot of hyaluronic acid that supplies, which they've been on our podcast also, that supplies um many of the injectable makers with the hyaluronic acid they use in their products, they also have been really leaders in the polynucleotide space, and it is literally derived from salmon DNA, um salmon sperm DNA.
• 10:29
  SPEAKER_03: Um interesting.
• 10:31
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, I have no idea how they harvest that, but that's a whole nother story.
• 10:35
  SPEAKER_03: Um the you know, it it is in injectables outside of the United States, and I was in Australia earlier this year where where they our Australian colleagues were talking about using this injectable around the eyes and how beautifully it did as a very superficial injection um around the eyes to achieve uh rejuvenation of the you know lateral canthyl lines, those crow's feet, as well as you know, the darkening around the eyes, just seemed almost like a miracle uh for rejuvenation in that area.
• 11:08
  SPEAKER_03: We have it for topical use here.
• 11:10
  SPEAKER_03: That's that's really only what we can do with it.
• 11:13
  SPEAKER_03: And I think the jury is still out in terms of how much it can do.
• 11:17
  SPEAKER_03: There's not a ton of data out there.
• 11:19
  SPEAKER_03: We will be presenting on that at the summit next year as as we learn more about it uh and and more news to come on that.
• 11:26
  SPEAKER_03: But I think it is definitely hitting the mainstream, and we just need to kind of like exosomes kind of just shot out of a cannon 12 months ago.
• 11:35
  SPEAKER_02: Did they ever?
• 11:36
  SPEAKER_02: It's good to be aware of it, know that it's out there, because you certainly could get asked a question about that from a patient.
• 11:43
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 11:44
  SPEAKER_03: So we'll learn more about that and the different sources of it as well.
• 11:49
  SPEAKER_03: More to come on that is what I'd say.
• 11:50
  SPEAKER_02: Interesting.
• 11:51
  SPEAKER_02: I wonder if it really penetrates the skin if you use it topically.
• 11:54
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 11:54
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 11:55
  SPEAKER_04: So that's an interesting thing.
• 11:58
  SPEAKER_02: It's a question to ask.
• 11:59
  SPEAKER_02: Um What else we saw this year, I think, that was interesting was the explosion of hair care, especially in with the consumer companies, you know, with major players going into hair care.
• 12:12
  SPEAKER_02: And then sort of the whole notion of skinification of hair care, where hair care now becomes skin care.
• 12:18
  SPEAKER_04: Right.
• 12:19
  SPEAKER_02: And we had discussions about that at the meeting.
• 12:23
  SPEAKER_02: And I think we're going to have a whole session next year on hair care.
• 12:26
  SPEAKER_02: We we've done it in the past, we kind of came away from it this year.
• 12:30
  SPEAKER_02: But I think all these innovations in the cosmetic industry say we've got to do it.
• 12:34
  SPEAKER_02: We've got to learn more about it.
• 12:36
  SPEAKER_02: And hair care, I think, is something that even those of us interested in skincare probably don't know as much about as we should.
• 12:42
  SPEAKER_02: It's a tough subject.
• 12:44
  SPEAKER_03: It is a tough subject.
• 12:45
  SPEAKER_03: We don't really understand it.
• 12:46
  SPEAKER_03: The microbiome of the scalp is different than that of the face, and so we have to take that into account.
• 12:51
  SPEAKER_03: Obviously, the semen production, the hair follicles themselves, and and the hair itself changes everything in regards to how you apply topicals to the scalp.
• 13:03
  SPEAKER_03: Uh, but I totally agree with you.
• 13:04
  SPEAKER_03: It seems that there's a lot of small and large companies that are tr treating the scalp the facial skin as an extension of the scalp now, or the scalp is an extension of the face.
• 13:13
  SPEAKER_03: And so we're going to see more scalp care products come out.
• 13:16
  SPEAKER_03: And I think that aligns with what's going on in the regenerative space with hair growth, where we see so many of our colleagues use utilizing these exosomes that are used alongside cosmetic microneedling, for example.
• 13:27
  SPEAKER_03: We know outside the US people are injecting exosomes with incredible anecdotal results, um, which of course is not approved for use in the United States.
• 13:35
  SPEAKER_03: So no injecting here.
• 13:37
  SPEAKER_03: No injecting, yeah.
• 13:39
  SPEAKER_03: Otherwise you get your hand slapped or more by the FDA.
• 13:41
  SPEAKER_03: But I think that it is there is so much attention being paid, being paid to the scalp and hair growth and scalp care that it's going to be we're gonna see that in 2025 as well.
• 13:52
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, hair care is the new skincare.
• 13:55
  SPEAKER_03: Yep.
• 13:55
  SPEAKER_02: And that's I think it's great.
• 13:57
  SPEAKER_02: It's a it's a very interesting innovation.
• 14:00
  SPEAKER_02: And I think we also saw a lot of interest in body care this year.
• 14:03
  SPEAKER_02: You know, sort of the whole thing that happened with COVID, making you know, skincare more of self-care, and people, you know, obviously everybody stopped buying everything except skincare during COVID because it was something they could do at home, something they could do to make themselves feel better.
• 14:20
  SPEAKER_02: So I think the whole notion of not just facial skincare, but body skincare, we're seeing more companies put attention into body products and putting out good body products into the marketplace.
• 14:31
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, I mean, so much could be said right now about body products.
• 14:35
  SPEAKER_03: You're exactly right.
• 14:35
  SPEAKER_03: I feel like we've had those, but they haven't really been huge sellers, although more and more people are paying attention to them.
• 14:41
  SPEAKER_03: I think the price points are coming down a little bit as well, which makes more sense for those products.
• 14:45
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, and you've got to have the right things in body care.
• 14:47
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, you can't spread retinoids all over the body all that easily.
• 14:50
  SPEAKER_02: And so I think that's been some of the pitfalls of the products of the past.
• 14:54
  SPEAKER_02: But now that we've got peptides and other molecules we can use that, you know, I like to call them more skin-friendly molecules that don't give you that potential for irritation, it makes a lot more sense.
• 15:06
  SPEAKER_02: And the potential for absorption, of course, right is also an issue when you're using a body product because you're putting so much of it on.
• 15:13
  unknown: Yeah.
• 15:13
  SPEAKER_02: Such a big surface area.
• 15:15
  SPEAKER_03: Many of us are excited about the idea of targeting dermatoporosis now or that kind of crepiness and the easy bruising and the thinning of the skin that we have attributed to the aging process for so long, but have really not been able to do anything about.
• 15:27
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 15:27
  SPEAKER_02: I think it was an eye-opener at the meeting.
• 15:29
  SPEAKER_02: A lot of people didn't even were not familiar with the term dermatoporosis, right?
• 15:33
  SPEAKER_02: Which comes from the term osteoporosis, as was explained on the podium when they were trying to define what happens to skin.
• 15:39
  SPEAKER_02: You know, it's particularly forearm skin that we see every day in our office, such a great term.
• 15:46
  SPEAKER_02: And now we do have cosmetic solutions that again are about to come into the marketplace to address that particular problem, which is a huge, not just cosmetic problem, but it's a huge functional problem for patients in that age range.
• 15:59
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, I just every single day I have so many patients ask me about it, and and just to know that we have something coming is is really exciting for patients.
• 16:07
  SPEAKER_02: So really can't wait for that launch of a product that's going to be Q1 this year, we're gonna see that product, and it will be a topical product for those listening.
• 16:16
  SPEAKER_02: We don't know a name and we'll more to come on that, but that's gonna be really exciting.
• 16:22
  SPEAKER_02: I've tried to use retinoids for that over the year, but it's very difficult and doesn't work all that well.
• 16:28
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, I I don't remember who taught me this, but to to mix to xerotine point one percent and shea butter, which has a very high lipid content, uh mix a whole tube into a pound of shea butter and use that as a nighttime moisturizer.
• 16:40
  SPEAKER_03: I've used that for many years for damatoporosis with varying results.
• 16:44
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, yeah, varying results, but you know, some people get very sensitive to that.
• 16:48
  SPEAKER_03: So um, to have something that doesn't have retinoids in it, I like you said, would be great.
• 16:53
  SPEAKER_03: And so very excited about that.
• 16:55
  SPEAKER_03: And I'm sure so many companies are working on innovative uh topicals for for um for body care also.
• 17:03
  SPEAKER_03: So so we're gonna see more and more on that.
• 17:06
  SPEAKER_02: I agree a hundred percent.
• 17:07
  SPEAKER_03: What do you think, Patty, about the you know, something that's near and dear to your heart, which is the nutraceuticals or the supplements for skincare?
• 17:14
  SPEAKER_02: You know, as I was thinking about this podcast, I was like, you know, every year I say I think more and more nutraceuticals are gonna hit the marketplace and be embraced.
• 17:23
  SPEAKER_02: But are they really?
• 17:25
  SPEAKER_02: I don't know.
• 17:25
  SPEAKER_02: I feel like I've been saying that for a very long time.
• 17:28
  SPEAKER_02: We did see major consumer companies go into that marketplace and take a stab at nutraceuticals, but I think that's a really tough space.
• 17:37
  SPEAKER_04: Yeah.
• 17:37
  SPEAKER_02: Um I mean, I I believe uh, as you know, in collagen hydrolysates and some of these products that contain multiple ingredients, antioxidants.
• 17:47
  SPEAKER_02: We all use polypodium leucotomas extensively in our practices, niacinamide for treating patients who have a history of skin cancer.
• 17:55
  SPEAKER_02: So some of this has become mainstream in dermatology, but I'm not sure it's mainstream with the consumers yet.
• 18:03
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, I I go back and forth.
• 18:04
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, every day I have patients that ask me about collagen for their skin, and so I think about your lecture so often, uh, and I tell them everything that you've taught me.
• 18:12
  SPEAKER_03: Um I I think that you know, this this idea of medical foods now, there's there's pharmaceutical companies that are developing these medical foods to address all sorts of different issues, quite frankly, hormonal issues related to the skin, um, stasis, dermatitis, um, skin thinning as well.
• 18:31
  SPEAKER_03: And and I'm wondering if that's going to gain more steam.
• 18:33
  SPEAKER_03: I it's exciting to think about the fact that we can prescribe something as a medical food that can address aesthetic and and therapeutic concerns.
• 18:41
  SPEAKER_03: Um, I don't know.
• 18:42
  SPEAKER_03: I guess maybe I'm a little bit more bullish on it this year than you are.
• 18:46
  SPEAKER_02: I think there's I've been bullish on it for so long, so long, and I keep thinking, like, when is it happening?
• 18:52
  SPEAKER_02: When are people gonna say, what well, we do hear people asking more about supplements and what supplements they should take.
• 18:59
  SPEAKER_02: And I agree with you, collagen hydrolysates are probably the one we get asked about the most.
• 19:03
  SPEAKER_02: Um and I think there's good science to support them at this point in time.
• 19:08
  SPEAKER_02: Hallelujah.
• 19:09
  SPEAKER_02: But I do was gonna say, I think one of the reasons we maybe don't see people embracing them so much is that there's not as much science behind them.
• 19:18
  SPEAKER_02: So as they become more and more well studied, I think physicians and dermatologists become more comfortable recommending them.
• 19:25
  SPEAKER_02: And that's that's where the patients are gonna get their information, and that's how patients are gonna feel comfortable using them.
• 19:30
  SPEAKER_02: Well, my doctor said this is good and it could help.
• 19:35
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, I think the supplements for hair growth in particular seem to be just absolutely in the mainstream.
• 19:41
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, my wife, you know, who's you know, in the 50-year-old range is is now can't tell me all of her friends are taking these hair growth supplements.
• 19:51
  SPEAKER_03: Of course.
• 19:51
  SPEAKER_03: Um, some of them because they actually have hair loss and others because they're worried about hair loss.
• 19:56
  SPEAKER_03: And so they want to prevent it.
• 19:57
  SPEAKER_02: Preventative.
• 19:58
  SPEAKER_02: I agree.
• 19:59
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, that's a place where they really did meet the mainstream, but the success was because the companies, the two major market leaders, did clinical studies and presented those studies to dermatologists.
• 20:10
  SPEAKER_02: And we're exactly right.
• 20:11
  SPEAKER_02: We all know they're perhaps not they're part of a comprehensive treatment.
• 20:16
  SPEAKER_02: They they may not be the sole treatment.
• 20:17
  SPEAKER_02: They're used in combination with in-office procedures and medications and and they give patients something they can access without seeing a physician, which is really valuable.
• 20:27
  SPEAKER_03: You know, we learned at our meeting, um, you know, we had a couple of exhibitors who had developed supplements for inflammatory skin disease as well, supplements for acne, supplements for you know overall skin health.
• 20:38
  SPEAKER_03: And I and again, I think that just all of it leads me to believe that that supplement market, the the nutraceuticals, the the medical foods, the supplements are going to, you know, gain steam through 2025.
• 20:51
  SPEAKER_03: And I think part of it is is how much we we talk about it on podium, not not just you and me, how much everyone talks about it on podium.
• 20:58
  SPEAKER_02: Well, hopefully 2025 is the year.
• 21:02
  SPEAKER_02: Didn't you find it interesting how so many people were talking at the meeting about the GLP ones?
• 21:10
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, yes.
• 21:11
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, it seemed like everywhere we went, people were talking about the skin changes and how could they intervene with patients who were on GLP ones.
• 21:21
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, there's so many people on them now.
• 21:24
  SPEAKER_02: I just found it fascinating.
• 21:26
  SPEAKER_02: You know, that's something I think we're gonna all be facing more and more of as these are becoming so mainstream.
• 21:33
  SPEAKER_02: What did we hear?
• 21:33
  SPEAKER_02: 30 percent of people in America have tried or been on a GLP one?
• 21:37
  unknown: Yeah.
• 21:38
  SPEAKER_02: Were you there with me when someone told us that?
• 21:39
  SPEAKER_03: Yes, thirty to forty percent.
• 21:41
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, thirty to forty percent.
• 21:42
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, that was unbelievable.
• 21:44
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, you can't open up um a medical education website without seeing something new about GLP one.
• 21:51
  SPEAKER_03: Every day it's on your alcoholism now and different, you know, um addictive behaviors and how I can help with that in addition to so many other things.
• 22:00
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 22:00
  SPEAKER_02: So many many and many health benefits in addition to controlling blood sugar and weight loss.
• 22:05
  SPEAKER_02: Huge numbers of health benefits.
• 22:07
  SPEAKER_02: But we all know it has fairly profound effects on the skin.
• 22:10
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, which are basically related to the weight loss, but you know, the uh it it's just it's totally fascinating.
• 22:18
  SPEAKER_02: And and how to intervene on that with something topical, I don't know.
• 22:22
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 22:23
  SPEAKER_02: If we're gonna get there.
• 22:24
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, yeah.
• 22:25
  SPEAKER_03: I know they're developing GLP1s as tablets now.
• 22:28
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, they're already available for diabetics, but I think for for weight loss they're showing some good effects in phase three trials.
• 22:33
  SPEAKER_03: And so I think we'll instead of having to inject, you can take a pill, which would make it a lot easier for some people.
• 22:38
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, yeah.
• 22:38
  SPEAKER_02: Maybe they can bring the price down too.
• 22:40
  SPEAKER_02: It's still so expensive, even if it's compounded.
• 22:43
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 22:44
  SPEAKER_03: So I yeah, I agree with you.
• 22:45
  SPEAKER_03: I think every company is thinking about how they can use their products alongside a GLP one.
• 22:50
  SPEAKER_03: And and I I even heard some people talking about the regenerative capabilities of GLP1s in the skin and the body in different systems.
• 22:58
  SPEAKER_04: Well, that's interesting.
• 22:59
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, I think we're gonna see more data coming out about how they affect stem cells, for example, and and and fibroblasts and gosh, all different body systems and different cells.
• 23:09
  SPEAKER_03: Um, so more to come on that.
• 23:11
  SPEAKER_03: It's you know, throughout our throughout our careers, we've seen these different, you know, aspirin for statins, TNF alphas.
• 23:20
  SPEAKER_03: Is someone like everyone's like, oh, you everybody should be in a little TNF alpha inhibitor.
• 23:24
  SPEAKER_03: Everyone should be in a little bit of this.
• 23:26
  SPEAKER_03: And I feel like that's it drug that everyone should be in a little bit of this.
• 23:31
  SPEAKER_02: It is the new it drug.
• 23:32
  SPEAKER_02: Now everybody's microdosing it.
• 23:34
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I don't even know what that means, how much people are taking, but they're microdosing these GLP ones.
• 23:40
  SPEAKER_02: It's it's like uh, you're right, like a daily aspirin, or I don't know, it's it's it's something.
• 23:47
  SPEAKER_02: It's changing the marketplace, it's changing the landscape of medicine.
• 23:52
  SPEAKER_04: Yeah.
• 23:52
  SPEAKER_02: And I think some at some point the cosmetic industry is gonna is tangling with it because it changes skin.
• 24:00
  SPEAKER_03: You know, you you make me think of another term which is becoming more and more mainstream, which is biohacking.
• 24:06
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 24:06
  SPEAKER_03: With the idea of utilizing these pharmaceuticals to to increase longevity, to improve health, but in a total off-label way, right?
• 24:16
  SPEAKER_03: So whether it's metformin to increase longevity, if it's rapamycin at different dosages, and and you know, we do we are starting to see some studies on rapamycin now in particular at at various doses to increase longevity, improve health.
• 24:30
  SPEAKER_03: And so there there may be more and more data to support that.
• 24:33
  SPEAKER_03: I know we've had colleagues who have been microdosing rapamycin for quite some time, and yeah we've all you know, I I don't know about all of us, but I I have certainly wondered the long-term effects of immunosuppression.
• 24:44
  SPEAKER_03: Are we increasing risk of lymphoma and other cancers by doing that?
• 24:47
  SPEAKER_03: And so getting the data out in human data is going to be really important.
• 24:52
  SPEAKER_03: I'm excited that more of that is coming out.
• 24:54
  SPEAKER_03: Um but the that biohacking idea with GLP1s now, like you said, I I just think more and more medical providers and and um the the mainstream public are going to be interested in that.
• 25:10
  SPEAKER_03: Um so I think as aesthetic providers in particular, we're going to need to stay aware of of what's going on in the biohacking arena and and whether or not you're comfortable with with being involved in that or not.
• 25:20
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 25:21
  SPEAKER_02: I'm as a dermatologist, I'm I don't know how I would feel being involved with it because it's a little bit out of our lane, but I know we have colleagues who are very well versed in it.
• 25:32
  SPEAKER_02: So I wouldn't would not throw anyone under the bus if they had the competency in it.
• 25:37
  SPEAKER_02: Another thing we're hearing a lot about is NAD.
• 25:40
  SPEAKER_04: Oh, yeah.
• 25:41
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I think I told you I took a stab.
• 25:43
  SPEAKER_02: I was gonna made cover it next year.
• 25:45
  SPEAKER_02: I think I'm we're gonna have to cover it next year in a nutraceutical lecture, but boy, oh boy, the the data studies are all over the place on those things.
• 25:54
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, some people don't even think you can get adequate amounts orally that you really need to use an IV.
• 25:59
  SPEAKER_02: I'm gonna have to take a serious deep dive into it again.
• 26:02
  SPEAKER_02: I it's been a while since I looked at that category of nutraceuticals, but they're becoming extremely popular.
• 26:10
  SPEAKER_03: Throw in peptides there.
• 26:11
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 26:12
  SPEAKER_03: Right?
• 26:12
  SPEAKER_03: So many people are taking these different peptides and combinations of peptides that I don't quite understand.
• 26:17
  SPEAKER_03: Um, I haven't looked at the data, so I'm really I shouldn't even be talking about it.
• 26:22
  SPEAKER_03: But I've heard of it.
• 26:23
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we're we it's on our radar, and that's all we can really say about it.
• 26:27
  SPEAKER_01: Stay tuned while we figure it out.
• 26:30
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, we'll have to figure something out about that.
• 26:33
  SPEAKER_03: Um, but yeah, there's so many of these incredible new, you know, polynucleotides, peptides, NAD plus, biohacking.
• 26:40
  SPEAKER_03: All of that is kind of creeping into the skincare space and and longevity and regenerative space that, you know, we just decided that we need to stay on top of as a skincare meeting.
• 26:51
  SPEAKER_03: And so we are going to continue to provide the cutting-edge data on that at our meetings for sure.
• 26:55
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 26:56
  SPEAKER_02: And next year you have longevity, a good session on longevity, and that's where they're going to hit all this, I'm sure.
• 27:03
  SPEAKER_02: It's interesting because we're not, we're using mostly research scientists in those sessions.
• 27:08
  SPEAKER_02: Because this is so ahead of the curve that the physicians don't really aren't really as well versed, I guess, as as the people who are in the trenches with it.
• 27:19
  SPEAKER_03: I feel like it's the same way for the microbiome as well.
• 27:21
  SPEAKER_03: Like you have to go to the researchers because things are changing so quickly it's difficult for a derm to stay on top of all the literature.
• 27:28
  SPEAKER_02: That is something I do think we see a trend for towards, and that is looking more at products for skin health, maintaining barrier function.
• 27:38
  SPEAKER_02: You know, we talked already about collagen banking, maintaining the dermis, maintaining the epidermis and the epidermal barrier function.
• 27:45
  SPEAKER_02: I think that is a trend that we are seeing.
• 27:48
  SPEAKER_02: We saw last year, and I'm sure we'll see more of this year.
• 27:52
  SPEAKER_02: Products for skin care products for skin health.
• 27:57
  SPEAKER_03: Which is wonderful.
• 27:59
  SPEAKER_03: Right, and I think that kind of fits the idea of the Venn diagram, right?
• 28:02
  SPEAKER_03: Where you've got the pharmaceutical topicals and our systemics now, and then you've got the the skincare and how that there's such an overlap now in terms of what the pharmaceuticals are trying to do and what the skincare products are trying to do.
• 28:12
  SPEAKER_02: 100%.
• 28:13
  SPEAKER_02: Well, look at all the acne seuticals, as they call them, all the acne products that are coming into the marketplace for treating, you know, you can't hardly get prescriptions anymore because insurance companies don't like to pay for them.
• 28:24
  SPEAKER_02: So the torch has been picked up by the cosmetic companies.
• 28:28
  SPEAKER_02: Good for them.
• 28:28
  SPEAKER_02: They're smart to do it.
• 28:31
  SPEAKER_02: I totally agree.
• 28:32
  SPEAKER_02: Such a big market.
• 28:33
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, it makes you wonder whether this whole idea that skincare should not change structure or function of the skin per the FDA guidelines.
• 28:41
  SPEAKER_03: It's so outdated, isn't it?
• 28:43
  SPEAKER_02: I was gonna say, shh.
• 28:46
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, it just is, right?
• 28:47
  SPEAKER_02: I I have to definition was from 1938, if I'm not mistaken.
• 28:53
  SPEAKER_02: The FD and C Act.
• 28:54
  SPEAKER_02: Now I know it's been tweaked, so I I shouldn't I shouldn't say it's probably still exactly what it was, but even a moisturizer affects structure and function of the skin without anything fancy and bells and whistles in it.
• 29:10
  SPEAKER_02: So yeah, the the definition is totally antiquated.
• 29:14
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 29:14
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, look, kudos to the agency.
• 29:16
  SPEAKER_03: We've got MoCRA, the MOCRA Act that that was passed.
• 29:19
  SPEAKER_03: Right, that's what I was thinking of.
• 29:20
  SPEAKER_02: I couldn't think of the name of it, the MOCRA Act.
• 29:22
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, which is going to increase oversight of um topical skincare products, which is important, right, to ensure that we, you know, the safety is absolutely there and there's a reporting system for any adverse events.
• 29:34
  SPEAKER_02: No, I think that was all good.
• 29:36
  SPEAKER_03: Great.
• 29:36
  SPEAKER_02: That was all good.
• 29:38
  SPEAKER_03: I think opportunity there for the agency to look a little bit closer.
• 29:43
  SPEAKER_02: Tons of opportunity.
• 29:45
  SPEAKER_02: Well, you know, that sort of puts us on the train of clean beauty.
• 29:49
  SPEAKER_02: You know, it it we we don't have a definition on things like clean beauty.
• 29:54
  SPEAKER_02: There's still a lot of nebulous marketing terms that are thrown around about skincare that grab this group of consumers, and then you got sustainability over here, which I think is uber important.
• 30:05
  SPEAKER_02: So, you know, I'm all for it, but then that grabs another group of consumers.
• 30:09
  SPEAKER_02: So until we get a little bit more definitive about these things, you know, a lot of it just becomes marketing fodder.
• 30:18
  SPEAKER_02: You know, it doesn't really, I mean, what does clean beauty really mean?
• 30:23
  SPEAKER_03: I'm gonna make a clean break and say I think we've covered everything that we could possibly cover in 30 minutes.
• 30:29
  SPEAKER_02: Uh oh, we're we're over 30 minutes, and I'll leave you on that question.
• 30:33
  SPEAKER_02: What does clean beauty mean?
• 30:35
  SPEAKER_03: It's a great question.
• 30:36
  SPEAKER_03: So stay tuned.
• 30:38
  SPEAKER_03: That's right.
• 30:38
  SPEAKER_03: I'm Dr.
• 30:39
  SPEAKER_03: Ted Lane.
• 30:40
  SPEAKER_03: I'm here with my co-partner in crime, Dr.
• 30:42
  SPEAKER_03: Patty Ferris.
• 30:43
  SPEAKER_03: We are the co-founders and co-directors of Science of Skincare Summit.
• 30:46
  SPEAKER_03: Of course, we co-host the science or the skincare confidential podcast as well.
• 30:50
  SPEAKER_03: Thank you so much for listening.
• 30:52
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• 30:56
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• 30:57
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• 30:59
  SPEAKER_03: We do more to come in 2025.
• 31:01
  SPEAKER_03: We've got uh great, great guests that that will continue to give us the 360 view of the skincare world.
• 31:09
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• 31:11
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• 31:15
  SPEAKER_02: Have a great holiday.