Latest / Stuff You Should Know / Selects: How Bras Work
Transcript
- 0:00Speaker 1: Hey everybody, it's Josh. And yeah, we did an episode
- 0:03Speaker 1: on bras. What of it? Yeah, we're two dudes. But
- 0:07Speaker 1: we're carrying on a long-standing tradition, we found out. Because
- 0:10Speaker 1: it turns out that just about every bra in history,
- 0:13Speaker 1: and then go back pretty far, was invented by a man.
- 0:16Speaker 1: And that includes the guy who filed the patent for
- 0:18Speaker 1: the first modern bra. This also explains why, until very recently,
- 0:23Speaker 1: bras were profoundly uncomfortable and usually had some sort of
- 0:26Speaker 1: lace or something. And maybe were see-through. That's neither here
- 0:31Speaker 1: nor there, though, because in this episode, we cover everything
- 0:34Speaker 1: there is to know about bras, and I feel like
- 0:36Speaker 1: we came out of it as better people. I'll leave
- 0:39Speaker 1: it to you to decide how we did. Either way,
- 0:41Speaker 1: enjoy this episode from 2020 on bras. Welcome to Stuff
- 0:50Speaker 1: You Should Know, a production of iHeartRadio. Hey, and welcome
- 1:00Speaker 1: to the podcast. I'm Josh Clark, and there's Charles W.
- 1:02Speaker 1: Chuck Bryant. And it's just us again.
- 1:07Speaker 2: It's just us.
- 1:10Speaker 1: We've lost Jerry.
- 1:12Speaker 2: I'm in the studio like I was on the last one,
- 1:15Speaker 2: but it's still a ghost studio. There's no one here. Sure.
- 1:19Speaker 1: Except for Tommy Chong and the radio, or the record player, right?
- 1:25Speaker 2: Sure.
- 1:26Speaker 1: Good. We'll just leave it at that. We said that
- 1:30Speaker 1: we have somebody poised to, like, scratch the needle off
- 1:35Speaker 1: the record several episodes ago. Yeah, I remember that. And
- 1:39Speaker 1: that it was Tommy Chong whose job it was to
- 1:42Speaker 1: do that now.
- 1:43Speaker 2: That's right. Good callback.
- 1:44Speaker 1: Thank you. Should we talk bras? Yeah, we're talking bras, man,
- 1:48Speaker 1: which I appreciate it when we do stuff like this,
- 1:51Speaker 1: episodes like this, because we have to try harder because
- 1:54Speaker 1: we're men, you know? Sure.
- 1:56Speaker 2: Sure.
- 1:57Speaker 1: The usual.
- 1:58Speaker 2: It's the only time we have to try harder in life.
- 2:00Speaker 1: Sadly, that is kind of true. But we haven't shied
- 2:06Speaker 1: away from topics that have very little to do with us,
- 2:10Speaker 1: like corsets. We did one on how corsets work. Do
- 2:14Speaker 1: you remember that? We totally did. A whole episode on corsets.
- 2:17Speaker 2: Jeez.
- 2:18Speaker 1: We did one on female puberty.
- 2:22Speaker 2: Yeah. Foot binding.
- 2:23Speaker 1: Yeah. We've done a lot of them. So this is just—
- 2:27Speaker 1: One in the same. A three is a lot when
- 2:30Speaker 1: it comes to this kind of stuff.
- 2:32Speaker 2: Yeah. No, I'm just kidding. And we did mention doing
- 2:36Speaker 2: one on menstruation not too long ago. And we got
- 2:38Speaker 2: a bunch of supportive emails saying like, yes, guys, please,
- 2:40Speaker 2: please do that. Like, there's no reason why you shouldn't.
- 2:42Speaker 1: I've been menstruating for 50 years and I still don't
- 2:45Speaker 1: understand it. Please explain.
- 2:47Speaker 2: Yeah, exactly.
- 2:49Speaker 1: So actually, we have not gotten that email, although we
- 2:52Speaker 1: wouldn't know if we had, you know.
- 2:56Speaker 2: Yeah, because our email server's down. Sorry if you've been bounced, everyone.
- 2:59Speaker 1: Yeah, we're working on it. Yep. So we're talking bras,
- 3:04Speaker 1: which is short for brassiere, which doesn't have a definite
- 3:08Speaker 1: origin as far as we know. We think that it
- 3:10Speaker 1: came about in the 20th century, early 20th century. I
- 3:14Speaker 1: think it first appeared in print in 1907 or something
- 3:17Speaker 1: like that. And in French, it means one of two things.
- 3:20Speaker 1: It means either arm covering, which is, I think, derived
- 3:24Speaker 1: from medieval armor, French medieval armor. Don't know. And then
- 3:28Speaker 1: the other thing I saw was a child's vest, which
- 3:32Speaker 1: that to me is just lovely. If that's what they're
- 3:35Speaker 1: trying to say with the bra, that it's like a
- 3:37Speaker 1: child-sized vest that you wear over your breasts, I love
- 3:43Speaker 1: that idea.
- 3:43Speaker 2: You want to know something funny? Yes. For the first
- 3:48Speaker 2: 10 minutes researching this, this was put together by our
- 3:50Speaker 2: pal Dave Ruse. I kept thinking, why is Ruse, why
- 3:55Speaker 2: does he keep talking about brasseries? Why does he keep
- 3:57Speaker 2: talking about quaint little French restaurants?
- 4:00Speaker 1: That's funny.
- 4:01Speaker 2: It's very close. It looks like brassiere.
- 4:03Speaker 1: It does. Well, yeah, yeah. Yeah, it does. I think
- 4:07Speaker 1: if that I was just a little further toward the end,
- 4:11Speaker 1: we would be talking about casual French restaurants. The TGI
- 4:15Speaker 1: Fridays of France. Well, that's better than my experience. For
- 4:19Speaker 1: the first 30 minutes, I was researching nothing but car bras.
- 4:24Speaker 2: Oh, God. The LeBras. Remember those? No.
- 4:28Speaker 1: I remember the car.
- 4:31Speaker 2: I think there was a LeBras, which was one of
- 4:33Speaker 2: the big popular models at the time for like Porsches
- 4:37Speaker 2: and stuff like that.
- 4:37Speaker 1: I don't remember that at all.
- 4:39Speaker 2: You know, my dad very stupidly bought a Porsche when
- 4:42Speaker 2: I was in high school.
- 4:43Speaker 1: Oh, no, with that food truck money?
- 4:46Speaker 2: With that big public school teacher money. He went out
- 4:50Speaker 2: and bought a Porsche and surprised my mom and the
- 4:55Speaker 2: rest of the family with a sweet Porsche 911.
- 4:59Speaker 1: Like a new one?
- 5:00Speaker 2: That no one was allowed to, like, breathe on. No,
- 5:03Speaker 2: it wasn't new.
- 5:04Speaker 1: Doesn't matter.
- 5:05Speaker 2: But he very quickly went out, and this is very
- 5:08Speaker 2: my dad, And like the next week he had like
- 5:11Speaker 2: the Porsche eyes odd, the Porsche glasses, the Porsche hat. And, uh,
- 5:16Speaker 2: we didn't have that for very long. I think I
- 5:18Speaker 2: drove it one time, like around the block and he
- 5:22Speaker 2: was like, and it was, they were not fun cars
- 5:25Speaker 2: to drive. They were very difficult to drive.
- 5:27Speaker 1: Yeah. Yeah. They're all about being in as one with
- 5:30Speaker 1: the road. And if the road's not so great, then
- 5:33Speaker 1: it's not, not very fun.
- 5:35Speaker 2: Yeah. But I will say piggybacking on this story. Um,
- 5:38Speaker 2: I've been watching the TV show Red Oaks. Have you
- 5:40Speaker 2: ever seen it?
- 5:41Speaker 1: I have never even heard of it.
- 5:43Speaker 2: I hadn't either. It was an Amazon show that ran
- 5:46Speaker 2: for three seasons about sort of like Caddyshacky. It's a
- 5:49Speaker 2: kid who works at a tennis club in the 80s.
- 5:52Speaker 2: And a very, very 80s show. And the drug dealer
- 5:56Speaker 2: drives this really sweet Porsche 928. Remember those?
- 6:00Speaker 1: Is that the pointy one? It looks kind of like
- 6:03Speaker 1: a Lotus Esprit.
- 6:04Speaker 2: Yeah, well, it's, yeah, the risky business car.
- 6:07Speaker 1: Okay. I never saw that movie.
- 6:09Speaker 2: Oh, really?
- 6:10Speaker 1: Yeah.
- 6:10Speaker 2: Oh, dude, you need to see Risky Business. Great movie.
- 6:13Speaker 1: I've got a list going.
- 6:17Speaker 2: It's really good. But anyway, the 9-11 gets all the headlines,
- 6:22Speaker 2: but that 9-28 was so sweet, and I was like, man,
- 6:25Speaker 2: I wonder what you could get an 80s 9-28 for.
- 6:29Speaker 2: I bet it's not that much. Oh, yeah. And I
- 6:31Speaker 2: looked it up.
- 6:32Speaker 1: How much?
- 6:34Speaker 2: Well, there was a range. Like, you can get one
- 6:35Speaker 2: that's in not great shape for, like, $ 12, 000 or up
- 6:39Speaker 2: to $ 60, 000 for a cherry low mileage one.
- 6:42Speaker 1: Right. I think that's pretty much the same with all
- 6:44Speaker 1: vintage cars. I was looking at Pinto station wagons.
- 6:48Speaker 2: And we're at different ends of the spectrum.
- 6:50Speaker 1: There's about four or five mint condition Pinto station wagons
- 6:56Speaker 1: in existence that are really expensive. The rest are exactly
- 7:01Speaker 1: what you would expect.
- 7:03Speaker 2: That's funny.
- 7:04Speaker 1: So we're talking bras today, obviously. We just wanted to
- 7:08Speaker 1: get rid of anybody who might benefit from listening to this.
- 7:11Speaker 1: So we talked about Porsches and stuff.
- 7:14Speaker 2: Yeah. So the bras, the modern bra has only been
- 7:18Speaker 2: around for about 150 years. And Dave makes a really
- 7:21Speaker 2: good point of the fact that this thing that's only
- 7:24Speaker 2: been around for 150 years has been one of the
- 7:27Speaker 2: most complicated garments in the history of the world, I think.
- 7:31Speaker 1: Yeah, not necessarily in its design or manufacture, but in
- 7:35Speaker 1: Its relation to society as a whole, right? Yeah, totally.
- 7:40Speaker 1: So you've got apparently a complete and utter lack of bras.
- 7:46Speaker 1: But as women started to play sports a little more,
- 7:50Speaker 1: it was okay for them to wear bras, I think,
- 7:53Speaker 1: in the 20th century. And in fact, it was a
- 7:57Speaker 1: woman who invented the sports bra. Two women, actually, I
- 8:01Speaker 1: think in 1977.
- 8:01Speaker 2: Of course.
- 8:03Speaker 1: They invented what was called the jog bra from two
- 8:06Speaker 1: jock straps that they put together. But, you know, it's
- 8:10Speaker 1: kind of a funny, cute little origin story. But they
- 8:13Speaker 1: ended up like revolutionizing sports. Like women were allowed to
- 8:19Speaker 1: play sports. I think Title IX had been passed a
- 8:22Speaker 1: couple of years before this. But the fact is you
- 8:26Speaker 1: couldn't play sports because there wasn't much support out there
- 8:29Speaker 1: for you. So to invent the sports bra... was tantamount
- 8:33Speaker 1: to introducing women in practice into sports. It's pretty huge.
- 8:38Speaker 2: Yeah, it is. And the history of the bra also
- 8:40Speaker 2: incorporates fashion. It incorporates societal norms and how they change.
- 8:48Speaker 2: So did the bra. How women changed over the years
- 8:52Speaker 2: and their own rights over their own comfort and their
- 8:56Speaker 2: own fashion. Taking that back. And it really kind of
- 9:01Speaker 2: everything in between. The bra is a very complicated garment
- 9:05Speaker 2: and undergarment.
- 9:07Speaker 1: It is. It is very complicated. What I was heartened
- 9:10Speaker 1: to see, though, is that today, apparently, and for the
- 9:13Speaker 1: last several years, it's been all about comfort and realness
- 9:19Speaker 1: and finding like a bra that fits. And apparently, I
- 9:23Speaker 1: was very surprised to find this, that that has not
- 9:26Speaker 1: been the norm, that especially in america at least bra
- 9:31Speaker 1: makers have made like x number of sizes and if
- 9:35Speaker 1: your breast didn't happen to fit that bra that was
- 9:39Speaker 1: on you there's something wrong with your body because these
- 9:41Speaker 1: are the standard sizes and this is what we're selling
- 9:44Speaker 1: and so women have for a very long time had
- 9:47Speaker 1: a lot of women have had bras that just do
- 9:49Speaker 1: not fit them because they just can't find them in
- 9:52Speaker 1: america and that's kind of led to this revolution in
- 9:55Speaker 1: bra making and also bra sizing that has allowed for
- 10:00Speaker 1: women to have much better, much more comfortable fits with bras.
- 10:05Speaker 1: And I'm just glad for that.
- 10:07Speaker 2: Yeah, me too. The average American woman supposedly owns six bras.
- 10:13Speaker 2: There are officially, there are 20 different styles of bras
- 10:19Speaker 2: that you can buy. And there's this great quote here.
- 10:22Speaker 2: It's from a book called Uplift, colon, The Bra in
- 10:27Speaker 2: America by Jane Farrell Beck and Colleen Gao. And this
- 10:32Speaker 2: sort of really pinpoints what you're trying to do with
- 10:35Speaker 2: a bra and why it's so tough to get a
- 10:39Speaker 2: great fit and one that really works for everybody. Brasseries, oh, wait.
- 10:47Speaker 2: Braziers must do more than fit a multitude of bodies.
- 10:50Speaker 2: They must accommodate the same body as it changes through
- 10:52Speaker 2: the monthly cycle and the life cycle. They must provide
- 10:55Speaker 2: for movement of the torso and arms in many directions
- 10:58Speaker 2: without chafing or binding, without slipping out of position. And
- 11:01Speaker 2: as if that were not enough, braziers must retain their
- 11:04Speaker 2: own structure throughout multiple wearings and launderings, must not abrade
- 11:09Speaker 2: in contact with clothing, must remain as a rule inconspicuous
- 11:13Speaker 2: beneath the outer clothing while harmonizing with the desired silhouette,
- 11:16Speaker 2: and must be priced to sell to many customers, it's
- 11:19Speaker 2: no wonder that hundreds of attempts have been made to
- 11:21Speaker 2: design the ideal breast supporter over the past 140 years. Yeah.
- 11:27Speaker 2: It says it all.
- 11:28Speaker 1: It really does. It is a lot more complicated than, say,
- 11:31Speaker 1: boxer shorts.
- 11:33Speaker 2: Yeah, those are easy.
- 11:35Speaker 1: So there's also a lot of money to be made
- 11:38Speaker 1: in it. I saw just the sports bra industry alone
- 11:41Speaker 1: is worth like $ 7 billion a year. There's a lot
- 11:45Speaker 1: of money made from bras. And so as a result,
- 11:48Speaker 1: about 600 million of them are made every year. There's
- 11:52Speaker 1: about 26,000 different bra patterns in existence. When you said
- 11:56Speaker 1: 20 different styles, that's like racerback or demicup, that like
- 12:00Speaker 1: large category of bra. As far as like different patterns
- 12:05Speaker 1: and types of bras, there's tens of thousands of them.
- 12:08Speaker 2: Oh, sure.
- 12:09Speaker 1: And each one has a lot of different moving parts.
- 12:13Speaker 1: I saw 40 different parts from straps, clasps, underwire, all
- 12:17Speaker 1: that stuff. And that it takes months and months of
- 12:22Speaker 1: dozens of people working together to create a new bra.
- 12:26Speaker 1: It's not just like a new thing. So there's a
- 12:28Speaker 1: lot of thought and time and effort and money going
- 12:32Speaker 1: into bra production. And then from what I've seen, there's
- 12:36Speaker 1: virtually an equal amount of time and effort and thought
- 12:40Speaker 1: going into bra purchasing too. From what I'm seeing, it's
- 12:43Speaker 1: like not the easiest thing in the world to buy
- 12:46Speaker 1: a bra if you want the bra to be one
- 12:49Speaker 1: that is your new favorite.
- 12:52Speaker 2: Yeah. Did you have any flashbacks of young Josh while
- 12:55Speaker 2: you were researching this? Like Sears catalog type of stuff?
- 12:58Speaker 1: Sure. Practicing unhooking bras by wearing them myself.
- 13:04Speaker 2: Or simply, you know, the 80s was a generally more
- 13:08Speaker 2: naive moment in time before the internet. Yeah.
- 13:11Speaker 1: Oh, yeah.
- 13:12Speaker 2: Seeing a lady in a bra leaning against a tree
- 13:14Speaker 2: was a pretty big deal.
- 13:16Speaker 1: Yes, it really was.
- 13:17Speaker 2: In 1983. Yeah. Should we take a break and then
- 13:20Speaker 2: dive into the history?
- 13:21Speaker 1: Yeah, let's. I think it's a good idea. Okay.
- 13:25Speaker 2: We'll be right back with the history of the Brasserie
- 13:27Speaker 2: right after this. We'll be right back.
- 13:45Speaker 3: Well now when you're on the road driving in your
- 13:49Speaker 3: truck why not learn a thing or two from josh
- 13:52Speaker 3: and chuck it's stuff you should.
- 13:54Speaker 4: Know all right okay so as everybody knows there was
- 14:03Speaker 4: a battle between auto von titzling and philippe brazier over
- 14:08Speaker 4: who invented the bra and as um The great Bette
- 14:13Speaker 4: Midler instructed all of us.
- 14:15Speaker 1: We know who won that battle because you wear a brassiere,
- 14:19Speaker 1: not a tisling.
- 14:21Speaker 2: Was that a Bette Midler bit?
- 14:23Speaker 1: It was from Beaches.
- 14:25Speaker 2: Oh, I saw that in the 80s when it came
- 14:27Speaker 2: out and not since then.
- 14:29Speaker 1: I don't think I've seen it since the 80s either,
- 14:31Speaker 1: but I guess that little part really stuck with me, yeah.
- 14:36Speaker 2: So the real first patent for the bra was filed
- 14:39Speaker 2: in 1863.
- 14:39Speaker 1: Mm-hmm.
- 14:42Speaker 2: Brazier, the word, it wasn't coined until the 20th century.
- 14:46Speaker 2: But that wasn't the first bra. Dave sent us even
- 14:50Speaker 2: a photo with this research, which is pretty great, of
- 14:53Speaker 2: a Sicilian mosaic called Bikini Girls. And if you look
- 14:57Speaker 2: up Bikini Girls, well, you're going to get a lot
- 14:59Speaker 2: of results. But if you look up Sicilian mosaic Bikini Girls,
- 15:03Speaker 2: you will see a mosaic from about 400 to 300
- 15:06Speaker 2: BCE that shows these Young athletic women wearing bikinis, clearly
- 15:13Speaker 2: wearing what looks like a bra or bikini top.
- 15:17Speaker 1: It's basically exactly what pro beach volleyball players wear today. Like,
- 15:22Speaker 1: no joke. It looks exactly like it.
- 15:24Speaker 2: But strapless. Right.
- 15:26Speaker 1: Yeah, I think a lot of them wear strapless stuff, too.
- 15:28Speaker 1: And also very short shorts. Like, even with the butterfly cut,
- 15:31Speaker 1: if you look closely, they have, like, that cut on
- 15:34Speaker 1: the side. I mean, like, they look exactly like pro
- 15:37Speaker 1: volleyball players. And this is... 2,400 years ago. So it
- 15:43Speaker 1: seems like they were wearing what's called an epidesmy or strophium,
- 15:49Speaker 1: depending on whether you speak the Greek or the Latin.
- 15:52Speaker 1: But it's basically like a cloth wrapped around and then
- 15:56Speaker 1: knotted in front to provide support during athletics.
- 16:01Speaker 2: That's right. Boom. So medieval times come along. There were
- 16:06Speaker 2: European physicians who were writing about something called breast bags.
- 16:11Speaker 2: And there was a medical text from 1300, the royal
- 16:14Speaker 2: surgeon in France, Henri de Mondeville, said, some women insert
- 16:20Speaker 2: two bags in their dresses, adjusted to the breasts fitting tight,
- 16:25Speaker 2: and they put them into them every morning and fasten
- 16:29Speaker 2: them when possible with a matching band.
- 16:32Speaker 1: Not a marching band.
- 16:33Speaker 2: No, that's sort of a bra, a built-in bra.
- 16:37Speaker 1: Sure, or a breast bag.
- 16:38Speaker 2: Right, just don't say that ever again.
- 16:43Speaker 1: Okay, agreed. So that's from 1300, right? And then you
- 16:47Speaker 1: would think, okay, well, things kind of started hard and
- 16:51Speaker 1: fast from that point on. And as far as history
- 16:54Speaker 1: is concerned, no. Like about 100 years later, all bra
- 17:02Speaker 1: technology was abandoned in favor of the corset. And that's
- 17:06Speaker 1: what we thought for a very long time until there
- 17:10Speaker 1: was a discovery in 2008, but it wasn't publicized until
- 17:12Speaker 1: I think 2012 or 15, that an archaeologist from the
- 17:16Speaker 1: University of Innsbruck, Beatrix Newts, I guarantee that's how her
- 17:22Speaker 1: name is spelled or said. She was excavating an Austrian castle,
- 17:27Speaker 1: Langberg Castle, and she found four medieval bras that were
- 17:32Speaker 1: 600 to 700 years old, made of linen. Do you
- 17:35Speaker 1: remember when this was news, this made the rounds?
- 17:38Speaker 2: I do.
- 17:40Speaker 1: When you looked at this garment, you're like, that is
- 17:42Speaker 1: a bra. It doesn't matter what context you have. It
- 17:46Speaker 1: doesn't matter. You just show somebody a picture of this
- 17:48Speaker 1: without any prep or anything like that and say, what
- 17:51Speaker 1: is this? They would say, well, that's a bra. You'd say,
- 17:53Speaker 1: that's right. It's a 700-year-old bra that we didn't know existed.
- 17:56Speaker 1: Like that whole design, we had no idea that it
- 17:59Speaker 1: existed because we thought everything had gone basically from, I'm
- 18:03Speaker 1: sorry to say this one more time, breast bags to corsets.
- 18:07Speaker 1: And that there was no transition. But in fact, there
- 18:10Speaker 1: was a transition to the modern bra that was abandoned
- 18:13Speaker 1: in favor of the corset. Quite unfortunately, really.
- 18:17Speaker 2: Yeah, and they even found a picture there of a
- 18:20Speaker 2: 13-year-old boy with a bra on his head saying he
- 18:22Speaker 2: was Mickey Mouse.
- 18:24Speaker 1: That's right.
- 18:25Speaker 2: So that was proof. So we covered the corset, like
- 18:29Speaker 2: you said, in our full-length episode, so you can go
- 18:31Speaker 2: listen to that. But very briefly, corset, the word means
- 18:35Speaker 2: corpus in Latin for body. And women would wear these
- 18:39Speaker 2: corsets that were– they had wood or bone. Later on,
- 18:43Speaker 2: that had steel. And it would basically shape their torso.
- 18:49Speaker 2: It would cinch that waist in, and it would flatten
- 18:51Speaker 2: their breast. And they were very restrictive. They were very painful.
- 18:55Speaker 2: And they did actual real damage to their bodies at times.
- 18:58Speaker 1: Oh, yeah. Like they had trouble digesting, had trouble breathing.
- 19:02Speaker 1: You remember you could train your waist to stay that small.
- 19:06Speaker 1: We talked a lot about this in the corset episode.
- 19:09Speaker 1: But the big problem with corsets aside from all that
- 19:13Speaker 1: is that they supported the breasts from the bottom up.
- 19:16Speaker 2: Yes.
- 19:17Speaker 1: And the thing that really differentiated bras from everything else
- 19:20Speaker 1: up to that point was that they went the other way.
- 19:23Speaker 1: They harnessed the power of the shoulder to hold the
- 19:27Speaker 1: breasts up from beneath. Not push them up, but hold them,
- 19:31Speaker 1: suspend them, almost like a pair of breast bags hanging
- 19:36Speaker 1: down over your shoulder.
- 19:40Speaker 2: There you go again.
- 19:41Speaker 1: I can't help myself now. I've been told not to
- 19:44Speaker 1: do something.
- 19:46Speaker 2: These are the great episodes where I just sometimes like
- 19:48Speaker 2: to sit back and... watch you dig into a big
- 19:52Speaker 2: giant hole.
- 19:53Speaker 1: Turn into a 13-year-old boy with a Sears catalog.
- 19:57Speaker 2: So this was going on. The corsets were terrible. Women
- 20:00Speaker 2: hated them. And by the mid-19th century, like you said,
- 20:04Speaker 2: they said, you've got these strong shoulders. Why don't we
- 20:05Speaker 2: use those? Like an ox. That's right. And the first
- 20:11Speaker 2: modern bra patent was filed in 1863 by a guy
- 20:14Speaker 2: named Lumen Chapman. And he was from– or he was
- 20:18Speaker 2: living at least in Camden, New Jersey. And he had
- 20:21Speaker 2: this very first over-the-shoulder design. And it was tightened in
- 20:26Speaker 2: the back like a corset, but it was softer. It
- 20:28Speaker 2: was made of stretchy fabric. And it had these cups.
- 20:31Speaker 2: They were called breast puffs in the patent for the
- 20:35Speaker 2: extra support and comfort, I think.
- 20:37Speaker 1: That is radically– better than breast bags.
- 20:41Speaker 2: You said it again.
- 20:42Speaker 1: So Lumen Chapman, strangely enough, his design did not take off,
- 20:47Speaker 1: although he does have the first patent. But a woman
- 20:50Speaker 1: named Hermione Cadol, great name, she created something that was
- 20:56Speaker 1: basically like a corset, but it was a corset cut
- 20:59Speaker 1: in two. And the top half very strongly resembled a
- 21:02Speaker 1: modern bra. And she called it the Le Bien-être or
- 21:06Speaker 1: Well-Being And her stuff still didn't quite take off. I
- 21:10Speaker 1: think because she was married to the corset still, the
- 21:14Speaker 1: general corset design, which made sense because at the time,
- 21:17Speaker 1: up until the early 20th century. If you didn't wear
- 21:21Speaker 1: a corset, you were basically advertising that you had loose morals.
- 21:26Speaker 1: So the corset was just it. Whether you hated corsets
- 21:28Speaker 1: with all of your might, and a lot of women did,
- 21:32Speaker 1: you still had to wear them just to be socially acceptable.
- 21:35Speaker 1: So it would take, as far as legend goes, a
- 21:39Speaker 1: very free-spirited, very wealthy socialite named Mary Phelps Jacobs to
- 21:46Speaker 1: basically say, nuts to that. I'm tired of these corsets.
- 21:50Speaker 1: those whalebone stays are protruding through this kind of sheer
- 21:55Speaker 1: dress that I want to wear to this dance. Let
- 21:57Speaker 1: me try something else. And she apparently instructed one of
- 22:00Speaker 1: her maids, because again, she was a wealthy socialite, to
- 22:04Speaker 1: make what we would consider the first modern bra out
- 22:08Speaker 1: of some silk handkerchiefs and ribbon.
- 22:11Speaker 2: Yeah, she was only 19. We should point out she
- 22:14Speaker 2: moved to Paris later on and changed her name to,
- 22:16Speaker 2: is it Caressa Crosby?
- 22:19Speaker 1: I think so.
- 22:20Speaker 2: Or Caress. I'm not sure if you pronounce that last E.
- 22:22Speaker 1: I'm not sure either.
- 22:24Speaker 2: But that was her final name. So Crosby had this
- 22:27Speaker 2: idea when she was 19, and it was before an
- 22:31Speaker 2: event that she was going to, a debutante ball. And
- 22:34Speaker 2: she called it the Backless Brassiere. And people at the
- 22:38Speaker 2: party loved it. I imagine women especially loved it. And
- 22:42Speaker 2: she got a patent for this thing in 1914. And
- 22:45Speaker 2: very unwisely sold the idea for a mere $ 1, 500 to
- 22:50Speaker 2: Warner Brothers Corset Company.
- 22:52Speaker 1: Yeah, who turned around in the next 30 years, made
- 22:54Speaker 1: 10,000 times that amount from that patent.
- 22:57Speaker 2: Oh, yeah.
- 22:58Speaker 1: So it's about $ 38, 000 that she was paid today for
- 23:03Speaker 1: the patent, and they made about $ 225 million in today's
- 23:04Speaker 1: money off of it.
- 23:07Speaker 2: But she was rich anyway, right?
- 23:09Speaker 1: In bed. Yeah, she was rich anyway. And she was
- 23:10Speaker 1: a super interesting person from what I saw. She basically
- 23:14Speaker 1: any famous author today that was writing in the 20s,
- 23:18Speaker 1: she was like real good friends with. And she herself wrote, too.
- 23:23Speaker 1: I think she had a publishing house called Black Sun.
- 23:26Speaker 1: But she wrote for a while pornography on commission from
- 23:32Speaker 1: an Oklahoma oil man who couldn't get enough of her stuff.
- 23:36Speaker 2: Like, that was just one of the many— Brought me
- 23:38Speaker 2: another sexist story.
- 23:39Speaker 1: That was one of the many things that she did
- 23:41Speaker 1: in her life. She wrote pornography.
- 23:44Speaker 2: Amazing. Yeah. So World War I turns out to be
- 23:47Speaker 2: a good thing if you're a woman because steel is
- 23:50Speaker 2: in short supply. The U.S. joins the war and says,
- 23:53Speaker 2: you know what? We got to have all the steel
- 23:57Speaker 2: in this country go toward war munitions and battleships and stuff.
- 24:01Speaker 2: And American women said, oh, great, because you know what
- 24:04Speaker 2: has steel? My corset. Let's get rid of it and
- 24:06Speaker 2: ditch these things for good. And elastic fabric started coming
- 24:10Speaker 2: into the market. Latex came into the market. And so
- 24:14Speaker 2: all of a sudden American women could finally get rid
- 24:16Speaker 2: of the corset in favor of this new invention called
- 24:21Speaker 2: the brassiere. And, of course, we don't want you to
- 24:24Speaker 2: be too comfortable, ladies. You might want to at least
- 24:26Speaker 2: put a girdle on just to keep everything nice and
- 24:29Speaker 2: cinched in.
- 24:30Speaker 1: Which is basically like Hermione Cadell's two-piece corset. corset, but whatever. Yeah.
- 24:37Speaker 1: Patriotism freed them from that social expectation of having to
- 24:42Speaker 1: wear a corset, which is pretty great. But I saw
- 24:45Speaker 1: that the steel that the corsets freed up equaled 28,000 tons,
- 24:51Speaker 1: enough to make two battleships in World War I.
- 24:54Speaker 2: That's awesome.
- 24:55Speaker 1: That's a lot of corset steel.
- 24:58Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 24:59Speaker 1: So this led to like a complete revolution in undergarments
- 25:05Speaker 1: for women right so in the 20s um the the
- 25:09Speaker 1: the one of the first bras was basically there was
- 25:12Speaker 1: a company called boish form which held the breasts down
- 25:18Speaker 1: and back back and to the left.
- 25:23Speaker 2: Wait, what was it called?
- 25:25Speaker 1: Boyish form, B-O-Y-S-H form. And from what I can tell,
- 25:30Speaker 1: they were basically saying boyish form.
- 25:33Speaker 2: Okay, that's what I was about to say.
- 25:34Speaker 1: But they shortened it by removing the I and changed
- 25:37Speaker 1: it to boyish form.
- 25:38Speaker 2: They're like, they'll never know.
- 25:40Speaker 1: Right. No one will ever get this trickery. But it
- 25:44Speaker 1: was because of that flapper style was very much slight
- 25:47Speaker 1: and boyish. But then along came a company in the
- 25:50Speaker 1: late 20s called Maidenform. And they named themselves Maidenform to
- 25:55Speaker 1: kind of contradict boyish form because one of their big
- 25:58Speaker 1: things was, hey, man, let's not be ashamed of these
- 26:01Speaker 1: boobs and try to hide them. Let's accentuate these things.
- 26:04Speaker 1: And boy, did they ever.
- 26:07Speaker 2: Yeah. I mean, in the World War II, in the
- 26:09Speaker 2: age of the big buxom Hollywood bombshell era, people like
- 26:12Speaker 2: Jane Russell, then in the 50s with Marilyn Monroe. And
- 26:16Speaker 2: it's all this, you know, sort of male ideal at
- 26:18Speaker 2: the time is what we're getting at is the bras
- 26:21Speaker 2: sort of followed suit. But when these women came on
- 26:24Speaker 2: the scene, that's when if you look at TV shows
- 26:27Speaker 2: from back then or advertisements, you see these bras that
- 26:29Speaker 2: were very pointy. And I think they even called them
- 26:33Speaker 2: bullet bras or torpedo bras.
- 26:35Speaker 3: Yeah.
- 26:36Speaker 2: And that was sort of all the rage just because
- 26:39Speaker 2: the sort of, I mean, Hollywood's always sort of driving
- 26:42Speaker 2: fashion in that way, and it certainly did back then,
- 26:45Speaker 2: because Twiggy coming along in the 60s with her very
- 26:48Speaker 2: sort of slim androgynous look, all of a sudden in
- 26:53Speaker 2: the 60s, bras were being thrown in the trash can.
- 26:55Speaker 2: They're like, we don't need bras at all.
- 26:57Speaker 1: Yeah, and then there was a guy, a designer, who
- 27:00Speaker 1: was an avant-garde designer named Rudy Gernreich, and he came
- 27:04Speaker 1: up with the no bra in 1964, which is basically
- 27:09Speaker 1: like what you would consider a bra today. It's meant
- 27:13Speaker 1: to just kind of be there and be supportive, but
- 27:15Speaker 1: also kind of fade into the background, which.
- 27:18Speaker 2: Is the antithesis. Like a nice quiet friend.
- 27:20Speaker 1: Huh?
- 27:20Speaker 2: Like a quiet friend. Exactly.
- 27:23Speaker 1: But that's like the antithesis of the torpedo or bullet bra,
- 27:26Speaker 1: which would take your eye clean out if you got
- 27:29Speaker 1: too close to it. But this is– you can kind
- 27:32Speaker 1: of see, like, we've gone from 20s where boy form was–
- 27:36Speaker 1: or boyish form was all the rage to the exact opposite,
- 27:40Speaker 1: to back to the 20s. And then it kind of
- 27:42Speaker 1: swung back toward, you know, large, busty, popping out kind
- 27:49Speaker 1: of thing, even more than before. Because now it's not
- 27:51Speaker 1: covered by a sweater. With torpedoes, it was all about
- 27:54Speaker 1: accentuating the boobs upward and to the left. And then
- 27:59Speaker 1: the Wonder Bra kind of really helped move that along.
- 28:04Speaker 1: And what was really interesting is I remember when the
- 28:06Speaker 1: Wonder Bra came out in America. It was in the 90s.
- 28:10Speaker 1: But it turns out that in the far off land
- 28:14Speaker 1: of Canada, it had been invented 30 years before. It
- 28:18Speaker 1: just took 30 years to get down to America and
- 28:21Speaker 1: become popular.
- 28:21Speaker 2: That's pretty funny.
- 28:22Speaker 1: Isn't that weird?
- 28:23Speaker 2: Yeah, that is totally weird.
- 28:24Speaker 1: Yeah.
- 28:25Speaker 2: And Canadians are too nice to insist. Like, by the way,
- 28:29Speaker 2: we have a better bra up here.
- 28:30Speaker 1: Right. And then now things have swum back again to
- 28:33Speaker 1: where they're like, do you even need a bra? And
- 28:36Speaker 1: a lot of people are like, I don't think you do.
- 28:38Speaker 1: It's kind of a personal preference.
- 28:40Speaker 2: Yeah. It certainly can be, but I also think there's
- 28:43Speaker 2: still very much a stigma.
- 28:46Speaker 1: Yeah. Yeah. Yeah, absolutely. It's true. There's just no arguing
- 28:50Speaker 1: that right now.
- 28:51Speaker 2: No, I mean, if you're a woman and you go
- 28:54Speaker 2: waltzing into a conference meeting at your business and you're
- 28:59Speaker 2: not wearing a bra, then someone's going to say something.
- 29:03Speaker 2: I guarantee you.
- 29:04Speaker 1: Exactly, yes. But I think also even if somebody didn't
- 29:09Speaker 1: say something or it was okay with everybody else, from
- 29:13Speaker 1: what I can tell, there's a certain psychological– security blanket
- 29:19Speaker 1: aspect to wearing a bra if that's what you've been
- 29:21Speaker 1: raised to do to wear a bra oh for sure
- 29:23Speaker 1: and to not do that would take a real psychological
- 29:26Speaker 1: shift in how you feel and how how secure you
- 29:29Speaker 1: feel without it and i was reading about training bras
- 29:33Speaker 1: because i didn't feel like i was enough of a
- 29:34Speaker 1: creep as.
- 29:35Speaker 2: It is you're like oh boy.
- 29:39Speaker 1: But from what i was reading about training bras, even
- 29:43Speaker 1: if the girl doesn't need a bra yet for any
- 29:47Speaker 1: real purpose, it provides like some kind of psychological thing
- 29:52Speaker 1: that they're like, okay, I'm keeping up with my peers
- 29:55Speaker 1: who actually do need a bra. Or I'm going to
- 29:58Speaker 1: like the eighth grade dance or something. probably say sixth
- 30:01Speaker 1: grade dance or something. And I want to wear this dress,
- 30:03Speaker 1: but it's going to look weird if I'm not wearing
- 30:04Speaker 1: a bra. So I need a bra. So, so, and
- 30:07Speaker 1: I think that kind of psychology continues on well into
- 30:11Speaker 1: adulthood too, so that it would be weird or feel
- 30:14Speaker 1: weird to not wear a bra if that's what you've
- 30:16Speaker 1: done your whole life. Yeah.
- 30:18Speaker 2: And I think it also has to do with your
- 30:20Speaker 2: comfort level with your, with your breast size. Sure. You know,
- 30:27Speaker 2: not to get too personal, but like, If I had
- 30:30Speaker 2: a dime for every time Emily was like, you got
- 30:32Speaker 2: to go get the delivery food at the door because
- 30:35Speaker 2: I'm not wearing a bra.
- 30:36Speaker 1: Sure.
- 30:38Speaker 2: And, you know, Emily has bigger boobs. So there, I
- 30:41Speaker 2: said it. She might be more comfortable if she had
- 30:45Speaker 2: smaller breasts. But I don't know. I'm going to go
- 30:49Speaker 2: home and ask her, though. Okay.
- 30:51Speaker 1: I feel like we should sit in silence for five minutes.
- 30:58Speaker 2: So you mentioned Maidenform. We'll get to this later, but
- 31:02Speaker 2: they were founded in 1929 by William and Ida Rosenthal,
- 31:08Speaker 2: who invented or introduced at least the letter-based cup sizing system.
- 31:13Speaker 3: Yeah.
- 31:14Speaker 2: But we'll get to that weird bit of voodoo in
- 31:17Speaker 2: a minute because I still have no idea what's going
- 31:20Speaker 2: on there. But in– actually, it wasn't in a year.
- 31:24Speaker 2: From 1949 to 1963– They had a very, very successful
- 31:28Speaker 2: print ad campaign called I Dream, which you can go
- 31:32Speaker 2: look up online. And these ads, which were very racy
- 31:35Speaker 2: at the time, of course, were women doing things topless
- 31:40Speaker 2: with just their bra on. They would have on like
- 31:42Speaker 2: a regular skirt that you would wear in that era,
- 31:46Speaker 2: but no top, no blouse. And they were dreaming. One
- 31:50Speaker 2: lady was dreaming of being a firefighter, and she was
- 31:53Speaker 2: fighting a fire with no shirt on. Or I dreamed
- 31:57Speaker 2: I went back to school in my maiden form bra.
- 31:59Speaker 2: And it's a woman in her bra at a grammar
- 32:02Speaker 2: school desk. Or I dreamed I won the election in
- 32:05Speaker 2: my maiden form bra.
- 32:06Speaker 1: Man, that's a face palm.
- 32:07Speaker 2: She's taking the stage on election night. And beyond these being,
- 32:13Speaker 2: and old advertisements are all funny and awful in every way.
- 32:17Speaker 2: But beyond this being funny and awful, it truly is
- 32:19Speaker 2: kind of gross that what they're showing are things that
- 32:23Speaker 2: are dreams for these women like, having a regular job
- 32:27Speaker 2: and things that they may not have been allowed to
- 32:29Speaker 2: do at the time.
- 32:30Speaker 1: Yeah. So but in at the time, like, yes, they
- 32:33Speaker 1: were trying to sell their bras. And yes, there was
- 32:36Speaker 1: like a certain amount of sex appeal to the whole campaign.
- 32:40Speaker 1: But in their defense, like this is a very like progressive,
- 32:44Speaker 1: liberating ad campaign. It was conceived by three women. Yeah.
- 32:49Speaker 1: And on one hand. And also, it's not like they
- 32:51Speaker 1: were like, ha ha, you couldn't possibly hold public office
- 32:54Speaker 1: because you're a woman. It was like like it was
- 32:57Speaker 1: showing that women dream of this kind of stuff, that
- 32:59Speaker 1: they want to do this kind of thing. And that
- 33:02Speaker 1: at least in their dreams, they're capable of doing this
- 33:04Speaker 1: rather than we can't even talk about that. It's so preposterous.
- 33:08Speaker 1: We couldn't even possibly create an ad campaign. So it
- 33:10Speaker 1: was kind of like. progressive in that sense it's in
- 33:14Speaker 1: retrospect that it's really cringy but really what you're cringing
- 33:18Speaker 1: it's not like maiden form was making fun of women
- 33:21Speaker 1: for not being able to to do these things it's
- 33:24Speaker 1: more an indictment of society for them being restricted from
- 33:27Speaker 1: these things at the time.
- 33:28Speaker 2: Yeah that's this is one of these definitely where you
- 33:31Speaker 2: could come at it from a lot of angles sure
- 33:33Speaker 2: and have opinions about it um but we should read
- 33:36Speaker 2: they had a contest in 1955 with the public about
- 33:40Speaker 2: new dream ideas. And the winner from 1957, and Dave,
- 33:45Speaker 2: God bless you for finding this, was I dreamed I
- 33:48Speaker 2: danced the hornpipe with Sinbad the Sailor. Don't even know
- 33:53Speaker 2: what that means.
- 33:54Speaker 1: That's another thing you can approach from a bunch of
- 33:56Speaker 1: different angles.
- 33:58Speaker 2: I think we should approach a message break, and then
- 34:01Speaker 2: we'll talk about the wacky world of bra sizing right
- 34:05Speaker 2: after this. Well, now, when you're.
- 34:24Speaker 3: On the road, driving in your truck, why not learn
- 34:27Speaker 3: a thing or two from Josh and Chuck?
- 34:31Speaker 4: It's Stuff You Should Know.
- 34:33Speaker 3: Stuff You Should Know.
- 34:34Speaker 2: All right.
- 34:38Speaker 1: All right, Chuck. So one thing that I've read is
- 34:41Speaker 1: that American bras don't fit and that there's a reason
- 34:45Speaker 1: for that. Something like there's a statistic that 80% of women,
- 34:51Speaker 1: American women at least, are wearing bras that don't fit.
- 34:55Speaker 1: And supposedly that's kind of made up and based on
- 34:57Speaker 1: anecdotal evidence, but it's been bandied about for so long
- 35:00Speaker 1: that people take it as gospel. But regardless of whatever
- 35:04Speaker 1: the statistic may or may not be, American bras are
- 35:07Speaker 1: known for not fitting. And it's because American bra manufacturers
- 35:11Speaker 1: have basically said, we've created this standard measuring scale. And
- 35:17Speaker 1: it just is economically efficient for us to mass produce,
- 35:21Speaker 1: you know, this size to this size. And if you
- 35:24Speaker 1: happen to fall outside of that size, you're SOL. And
- 35:29Speaker 1: it's your fault. There's something wrong with your body for
- 35:32Speaker 1: not adhering to the standard norm, body size norm. This
- 35:37Speaker 1: is largely becoming a relic of the past, but it's still,
- 35:40Speaker 1: from what I can tell, very much present when you
- 35:43Speaker 1: go bra shopping.
- 35:45Speaker 2: Yeah. And, you know, I've heard this complaint from Emily
- 35:49Speaker 2: over the years and a lot of women that, yeah,
- 35:52Speaker 2: it's tough to find a bra that really fits well
- 35:54Speaker 2: and feels good and does everything it's supposed to do.
- 35:57Speaker 2: And that's why when you find one, you know, you
- 36:00Speaker 2: order like six of them.
- 36:01Speaker 1: Yeah.
- 36:02Speaker 2: But there are these days before we get into the
- 36:05Speaker 2: sizing that is changing some now with these more bespoke
- 36:09Speaker 2: companies that have a more custom custom made tailored to
- 36:13Speaker 2: your size kind of things. And I wonder why it
- 36:16Speaker 2: took that long for someone to think outside the box
- 36:19Speaker 2: and challenge challenge a big brassiere and say, hey, you're
- 36:24Speaker 2: doing it wrong. I bet there's a lot of money
- 36:26Speaker 2: to be made from bespoke brassieres.
- 36:30Speaker 1: Yeah, from what I understand, there is. And although it's
- 36:33Speaker 1: just now happening in the U.S., apparently it happened, I believe,
- 36:37Speaker 1: back in the 90s in the U.K. with a movement
- 36:41Speaker 1: called bra fitting, one word, where it's basically like, look,
- 36:45Speaker 1: two measurements is not enough to create a perfect bra.
- 36:48Speaker 1: You need a bunch of different measurements under different conditions.
- 36:51Speaker 1: You need to take your shirt and bra all the
- 36:53Speaker 1: way off. We need to get in there. But when
- 36:56Speaker 1: we're done, you're going to have a well-fitting bra, and
- 37:00Speaker 1: it's just now catching on in the United States. And
- 37:04Speaker 1: what's surprising is that, you know, it's just now catching on,
- 37:07Speaker 1: but this technique and the sizing standard that we use
- 37:11Speaker 1: here in the United States goes back to the, I think,
- 37:15Speaker 1: the 20s, if not the 30s.
- 37:17Speaker 2: Yeah. Yeah, 1929 is when they founded Maidenform and introduced
- 37:22Speaker 2: this cup sizing technique. And I'm not going to pretend
- 37:25Speaker 2: to fully understand this.
- 37:27Speaker 1: I got it.
- 37:27Speaker 2: But I can read. Oh, you got it? Yeah, yeah.
- 37:29Speaker 1: You go ahead, though. I want to hear your attempt.
- 37:31Speaker 2: No, no, no. Because what will happen is I'll read
- 37:35Speaker 2: and then you'll do it again in your own words.
- 37:38Speaker 2: And then this episode is 15 minutes longer than it
- 37:41Speaker 2: should be.
- 37:41Speaker 1: All right. You got my number. And my number happens
- 37:45Speaker 1: to be 34C. So the cup system is what it's called.
- 37:51Speaker 1: It consists of two measurements and the difference between them.
- 37:56Speaker 1: So the first measurement is the overbust, which is the
- 38:01Speaker 1: circumference of your chest all the way around your body
- 38:06Speaker 1: across the nipples. That's your overbust measurement, right?
- 38:09Speaker 2: Okay.
- 38:11Speaker 1: Now, if you'll also measure right below the breasts all
- 38:15Speaker 1: the way around your body, that's your underbust. And if
- 38:18Speaker 1: you subtract those two, you're going to come up with
- 38:20Speaker 1: a difference in inches or centimeters, depending on where you
- 38:23Speaker 1: are in the world. And you can use that as
- 38:27Speaker 1: part of a handy table to say, oh, there's a
- 38:28Speaker 1: three-inch difference. That means that I'm a C cup, right? Right.
- 38:32Speaker 2: That's where the lettering comes from.
- 38:34Speaker 1: Right. The difference between your underbust and your overbust generates
- 38:38Speaker 1: some knowledge about the volume that your breasts are going
- 38:41Speaker 1: to take up, which is your cup size. Got it?
- 38:43Speaker 2: It generates knowledge?
- 38:45Speaker 3: Yeah, exactly.
- 38:45Speaker 2: Exactly.
- 38:47Speaker 1: So that underbust measurement is also used and that's the
- 38:52Speaker 1: number that comes before it. So if you're a 34C,
- 38:55Speaker 1: that means your chest is 34 inches around at the
- 38:58Speaker 1: rib cage under your breasts. And then if you're a C,
- 39:03Speaker 1: that means that there's a three inch difference. That means
- 39:05Speaker 1: that you are 37 inches around your chest at the nipples.
- 39:10Speaker 1: And so you'd be a 34C. And that those two
- 39:13Speaker 1: measurements are supposedly like all you need to come up
- 39:18Speaker 1: with a fitting bra. But apparently that's just not true.
- 39:21Speaker 2: Yeah, I mean, that all makes sense. I think the
- 39:25Speaker 2: thing that confused me is the sister sizing.
- 39:27Speaker 1: I understand that too.
- 39:29Speaker 2: Thing. so if you have a 36C and a 34C
- 39:33Speaker 2: brassiere that's not the same cup size because a 34C
- 39:37Speaker 2: is the only true C yeah so if you want
- 39:40Speaker 2: to go up a band size but not the cup
- 39:41Speaker 2: size you buy a 36B or a 38A so the
- 39:45Speaker 2: volume of the cup size is relative to the circumference
- 39:48Speaker 2: of the band Yeah.
- 39:50Speaker 1: I mean, it's as simple as that. I think the problem,
- 39:52Speaker 1: the breakdown is, is that this sister sizing thing has
- 39:56Speaker 1: not been widely publicized to women. And so that they
- 39:59Speaker 1: think like, well, if the band is a little tight
- 40:03Speaker 1: and I'm a 36C, then I need to go up
- 40:06Speaker 1: to a 38C. And that's just not the case. Yeah.
- 40:10Speaker 2: In music, you want a tight band. In brassieres, you don't.
- 40:14Speaker 1: Well, supposedly part of that bra fitting trend that started
- 40:17Speaker 1: in the UK is that suggests that a tight band
- 40:21Speaker 1: is the key to a good fitting bra, that that's
- 40:24Speaker 1: where most of your support comes and that most women
- 40:27Speaker 1: opt for a band size that's a little too loose.
- 40:31Speaker 1: But the point is, is your cup volume does not
- 40:33Speaker 1: go up when you go up a band size. It
- 40:35Speaker 1: doesn't have to. So that means that a 34C, if
- 40:39Speaker 1: you go down in band size, you would go up
- 40:42Speaker 1: in cup size and your cup size would stay the same.
- 40:45Speaker 1: So a 34C is the same as a 32D. And
- 40:48Speaker 1: then the other way, a 34C is the same as
- 40:50Speaker 1: a 36B. And once you understand the sister sizing thing,
- 40:55Speaker 1: then you can actually use this two measurement standard to
- 40:58Speaker 1: find a bra that actually fits better.
- 41:01Speaker 2: That's right. And if you're wondering how this all works,
- 41:05Speaker 2: it works with bra fitting models. There are women that
- 41:11Speaker 2: get paid money to go in and get fit for
- 41:14Speaker 2: thousands and thousands of bras and to give feedback. And
- 41:17Speaker 2: this all start, well, it didn't completely start there. But
- 41:20Speaker 2: in the 1970s, there was a singer named Dorothy Galligan
- 41:24Speaker 2: from New York answered an ad for a bra fitting model.
- 41:27Speaker 2: And they said, you know what? I know this sounds sexist,
- 41:31Speaker 2: and we probably, even though it's the 70s, shouldn't be
- 41:34Speaker 2: saying this in an office, but you have the perfect 34Bs,
- 41:38Speaker 2: and that's the standard size which we're designing our bras on.
- 41:42Speaker 2: So for almost 20 years, Dorothy Galligan was the model
- 41:46Speaker 2: in New York in the lingerie district that would work 10, 11,
- 41:50Speaker 2: 12-hour days trying on thousands and thousands of bras and
- 41:54Speaker 2: giving her feedback. So they could go back to the
- 41:57Speaker 2: sewing machine and redo it.
- 41:59Speaker 1: Yeah, because that's the other part of the problem with
- 42:01Speaker 1: bras that don't necessarily fit. In addition to not making
- 42:04Speaker 1: larger sizes in cup volumes and smaller sizes in cup volumes,
- 42:08Speaker 1: like they're based around one woman's pair of breasts and
- 42:12Speaker 1: her breasts became the standard for the bra industry in
- 42:15Speaker 1: the 20th century so that. if you could create a
- 42:19Speaker 1: bra that fit Dorothy Galligan correctly as a 34B, you
- 42:24Speaker 1: could use that to basically grow out from either way.
- 42:27Speaker 2: That's right.
- 42:28Speaker 1: So that's a real problem for women who have different
- 42:31Speaker 1: shapes and sizes. And it's really sad to me to
- 42:33Speaker 1: think that they were told for decades that, you know,
- 42:36Speaker 1: if your bra doesn't fit, something's wrong with your body.
- 42:39Speaker 1: You must acquit. Exactly.
- 42:42Speaker 2: Well, and here's the thing, too. It's not just breast size.
- 42:46Speaker 2: It's You know, how big your back is and how, like,
- 42:52Speaker 2: the bra, it holds the breasts, the cups do, but,
- 42:55Speaker 2: you know, it has to do with your shoulders and
- 42:57Speaker 2: your back and your armpits and everything else. Like, there's
- 42:59Speaker 2: so many nuances to everybody's body, men and women, that,
- 43:04Speaker 2: I mean, I think until recently they were trying to
- 43:07Speaker 2: do the best they could. But it was pretty narrow,
- 43:10Speaker 2: the options that women had.
- 43:12Speaker 1: Yeah, I get the impression that they were not trying
- 43:14Speaker 1: to do the best that they could, that they basically
- 43:16Speaker 1: said when we release a new bra, it comes in
- 43:18Speaker 1: these sizes.
- 43:19Speaker 2: Well, doing the best they could for a huge industry
- 43:23Speaker 2: that had to satisfy, you know, tens of millions of
- 43:26Speaker 2: different kind of bodies. Like they were kind of hamstrung.
- 43:29Speaker 2: You can't have. 450 bra sizes and manufacture on that scale.
- 43:33Speaker 1: Yeah, you can't mass manufacture, but I think that's what's
- 43:36Speaker 1: being proven, like you were saying, by this new bespoke revolution.
- 43:39Speaker 4: Yeah.
- 43:40Speaker 1: You can't get that big, although now you can get
- 43:43Speaker 1: that big because it's bespoke and because you can say, hey,
- 43:47Speaker 1: download our app and take these measurements using your phone
- 43:50Speaker 1: and upload it, and then we'll just custom make some
- 43:53Speaker 1: bras for you. And I also read that Poland– makes really,
- 43:58Speaker 1: really good-fitting bras as well. I think it was a
- 44:02Speaker 1: New York Times article about it. And the author traveled
- 44:05Speaker 1: to Poland to verify this herself, and she said she
- 44:07Speaker 1: didn't find the perfect bra, but she came away with
- 44:10Speaker 1: like four or five bras that were awfully close, way
- 44:13Speaker 1: closer than she'd ever had before.
- 44:16Speaker 2: It's funny. After all these years, I still remember to
- 44:18Speaker 2: not put a bra in a dryer because of the
- 44:22Speaker 2: movie Hedwig and the Angry Inch.
- 44:25Speaker 1: I don't remember that part. No, I never saw it.
- 44:27Speaker 1: That's why I don't remember that part.
- 44:28Speaker 2: It's great. John Cameron Mitchell, who also a friend of
- 44:31Speaker 2: Movie Crush, he's a friend of Noel's. He played Hedwig
- 44:34Speaker 2: and created the character and directed the film. But there's
- 44:38Speaker 2: a scene where he's screaming, do not put a bra
- 44:43Speaker 2: in a dryer. It warps. And I guess that's true
- 44:48Speaker 2: because ever since then I've been like, I don't know
- 44:50Speaker 2: if I'm doing laundry. I should not put a bra
- 44:52Speaker 2: in a dryer.
- 44:53Speaker 1: It does do some weird things to it, although you
- 44:56Speaker 1: can also put it in a laundry bag, and I
- 44:58Speaker 1: think that keeps it from wrapping around stuff, which makes
- 45:01Speaker 1: it last longer. You can't put it in a dryer.
- 45:05Speaker 2: Oh, right. Yeah, like when a bra collects everything else
- 45:08Speaker 2: in its wake.
- 45:09Speaker 1: Exactly. Yeah. So I don't think we can not talk
- 45:15Speaker 1: about Victoria's Secret.
- 45:18Speaker 2: Man, if I had a dime for every time you
- 45:19Speaker 2: said that to me. Or as many dumb, dumb guys
- 45:22Speaker 2: call it, Victoria's Secrets.
- 45:24Speaker 1: Yeah, dummies. So Victoria's Secret actually started out, husband and
- 45:29Speaker 1: wife founded it in the 70s in the San Francisco
- 45:33Speaker 1: area because the husband had gone to like the department
- 45:36Speaker 1: store to buy lingerie for his wife and was treated
- 45:39Speaker 1: like a scale for it, right?
- 45:42Speaker 2: Even in San Francisco in the 70s?
- 45:43Speaker 1: I guess so. All right. Department stores have always been
- 45:46Speaker 1: a certain way no matter where you are.
- 45:48Speaker 2: I think.
- 45:49Speaker 1: Right. So he said, well, we need to create like
- 45:52Speaker 1: a lingerie store that's made for men to go buy
- 45:54Speaker 1: for women. And that's what they created was Victoria's Secret.
- 45:57Speaker 1: And it was semi-successful. And then they sold to a
- 46:01Speaker 1: guy named Leslie Wexman. I believe it was Wexman who
- 46:06Speaker 1: had founded The Limited. And he took it— I think he
- 46:11Speaker 1: bought it for a million dollars. And within two decades,
- 46:14Speaker 1: it was worth $ 2 billion. And the guy who founded
- 46:18Speaker 1: it with his wife, they ended up getting divorced. And
- 46:21Speaker 1: he died broke and jumped from the Golden Gate Bridge,
- 46:24Speaker 1: sadly enough.
- 46:26Speaker 2: Oh, wow.
- 46:27Speaker 1: But Victoria's Secret dominated the— the bra industry in the
- 46:33Speaker 1: United States for many, many decades until very recently when
- 46:37Speaker 1: it was overthrown by women who said, enough.
- 46:40Speaker 2: Yeah. Well, it's funny. You know, Roy Raymond said, you
- 46:43Speaker 2: know what we need is a store where men can
- 46:46Speaker 2: go in and buy sexy lingerie for their wives. And
- 46:50Speaker 2: what he failed to hear was the sound of tens
- 46:52Speaker 2: of millions of women across the country saying, No, you don't.
- 46:55Speaker 1: Right. Well, that's what that's what Leslie, I think it's Wexman.
- 46:59Speaker 1: That's what he figured out was that this this thing
- 47:02Speaker 1: was a good idea, but they had missed the mark
- 47:04Speaker 1: and that they were marketing toward men and they were
- 47:07Speaker 1: completely isolating women. Because he said, like these Victoria's Secret
- 47:10Speaker 1: stores were lit with like, you know, weird kind of
- 47:14Speaker 1: reddish lighting and there were velvet couches and oriental rugs.
- 47:17Speaker 1: And he said that.
- 47:17Speaker 2: I've walked by them in the mall very slowly.
- 47:20Speaker 1: This was like in the early 70s or late 70s
- 47:24Speaker 1: and early 80s.
- 47:25Speaker 2: Yeah, that's what I'm talking. Okay.
- 47:26Speaker 1: All right. So he said, man, I would have loved
- 47:28Speaker 1: to have seen this. He said they were Victorian, not
- 47:31Speaker 1: like a Victorian foyer. They were like a Victorian brothel, basically.
- 47:37Speaker 1: And it was like just chasing women away, attracting men.
- 47:41Speaker 1: But women buy, you know, underwear for themselves way more
- 47:44Speaker 1: than their husbands do. And so he kind of revamped
- 47:47Speaker 1: it a little bit and turned it into something that
- 47:49Speaker 1: women felt comfortable and actually wanted to go into.
- 47:52Speaker 2: Yeah, it's interesting. According to that book Uplift that we
- 47:56Speaker 2: mentioned earlier, despite Victoria's Secret and its history, women have
- 48:02Speaker 2: really been key to the development of bras in the
- 48:05Speaker 2: United States. I think over 1,200 U.S. patents have been
- 48:09Speaker 2: awarded for bras between 1863 and 1969, and half of
- 48:14Speaker 2: those have been held by women. And in the industry,
- 48:18Speaker 2: they have always held pretty important positions and been well-regarded
- 48:23Speaker 2: designers and managers, specialists, merchandising, promotional product managers. It is
- 48:30Speaker 2: one industry where it seems that has not been, here's
- 48:34Speaker 2: a product for women run entirely by men.
- 48:37Speaker 1: Right. And rightfully so, I would say.
- 48:40Speaker 2: Yeah, absolutely.
- 48:41Speaker 1: So there is also a very famous legend as far
- 48:45Speaker 1: as bras go, which is the burning of bras at
- 48:49Speaker 1: a 1968 demonstration.
- 48:51Speaker 2: Yeah, not true, apparently.
- 48:52Speaker 1: No, it's a myth. There was, in fact, a demonstration
- 48:56Speaker 1: outside of Miss America pageant in Atlantic City in 1968.
- 49:00Speaker 1: It was the brainchild of Carol Hanisch, who helped basically
- 49:05Speaker 1: at this moment give birth to second wave feminism. And
- 49:09Speaker 1: they actually had a trash can that said freedom trash can.
- 49:13Speaker 1: And women threw stuff into it that they considered like
- 49:15Speaker 1: shackles of the patriarchy, like false eyelashes, bras. lingerie that
- 49:21Speaker 1: kind of stuff but there was no burning that came
- 49:23Speaker 1: from a reporter who suggested that they burn it as
- 49:28Speaker 1: a nod to the burning of draft cards but no
- 49:30Speaker 1: one actually burned this stuff but it became kind of
- 49:33Speaker 1: set in stone as true even though it really wasn't that's.
- 49:37Speaker 2: Right big fat lie And.
- 49:40Speaker 1: Then lastly, Chuck, I've got one extra thing. You ready?
- 49:43Speaker 2: Ready.
- 49:44Speaker 1: Do you have anything else?
- 49:46Speaker 2: I don't.
- 49:47Speaker 1: Do you need to wear a bra? It's a longstanding question.
- 49:52Speaker 1: And apparently the answer is no, at least as far
- 49:57Speaker 1: as a study in France, a 15-year study of 300 women.
- 50:01Speaker 1: I think they're aged 18 to 35. And this study
- 50:05Speaker 1: found that women who did not wear bras developed more
- 50:09Speaker 1: muscle tissue in their breasts, ostensibly to provide support that
- 50:14Speaker 1: the bra wasn't there to provide. And that by proxy,
- 50:19Speaker 1: if you did wear a bra, the muscles in your
- 50:23Speaker 1: breasts were less prone to develop, and thus you would
- 50:26Speaker 1: have more likely to have breasts that sag or pendular
- 50:31Speaker 1: breasts than you would have if you didn't wear a bra.
- 50:34Speaker 1: Kind of like you're making your breasts sink or swim
- 50:37Speaker 1: by not wearing a bra.
- 50:39Speaker 2: Makes sense.
- 50:40Speaker 1: It's just one study, but it is pretty surprising that
- 50:43Speaker 1: they found basically the opposite of conventional wisdom. Because most
- 50:47Speaker 1: people say, oh, if you don't wear a bra, your
- 50:48Speaker 1: breasts will get saggy. And that's apparently not true.
- 50:52Speaker 2: Interesting.
- 50:53Speaker 1: And I also ran across a weird question on Google.
- 50:56Speaker 1: You know, it has like suggested searches. What happens if
- 51:00Speaker 1: we squeeze breasts?
- 51:04Speaker 2: Uh, I don't know.
- 51:06Speaker 1: I didn't even bother to look. Just the question itself
- 51:08Speaker 1: was good enough.
- 51:11Speaker 2: Oh, man.
- 51:12Speaker 1: You got anything else?
- 51:13Speaker 2: I got nothing else.
- 51:14Speaker 1: What about the bro or the man's ear?
- 51:17Speaker 2: Oh, yeah. Can't forget the bro.
- 51:19Speaker 1: Well, since we said bro, it's time for listener mail, everybody.
- 51:25Speaker 2: I'm going to call this more on bidets. Hey, guys.
- 51:29Speaker 2: Love the show. Thanks for all you do. It's especially
- 51:31Speaker 2: meaningful in these crazy times. I'm currently hanging out in
- 51:34Speaker 2: northern Japan on a trip that changed from a between-jobs
- 51:37Speaker 2: snowboarding sabbatical in December to, well, I guess I live
- 51:41Speaker 2: here for now. So you're not a bad place to be,
- 51:44Speaker 2: I would imagine. So good for you, Adam. I'm sure
- 51:47Speaker 2: you guys got a ton of similar emails to this,
- 51:50Speaker 2: but in the bidets episode, you mentioned a type of
- 51:52Speaker 2: toilet with a sink sprayer attachment nearby. In my experience,
- 51:56Speaker 2: this is a super common thing in households and many
- 51:59Speaker 2: lower-budget hotel accommodations in the Philippines. and other Southeast Asian countries.
- 52:04Speaker 2: It is awesome and commonly referred to as the bum
- 52:07Speaker 2: gun by foreign travelers and expats. I don't know the
- 52:11Speaker 2: etymology of bum gun, so I'm not sure if that
- 52:13Speaker 2: term has been adopted domestically in various bum gun enthusiast countries.
- 52:18Speaker 2: But like One Ring or Spidey's abilities, it has great
- 52:22Speaker 2: power and must be wielded carefully. So bum gun wisely,
- 52:25Speaker 2: my friends. That is from Adam.
- 52:28Speaker 1: Thanks a lot, Adam. And best of luck to you
- 52:31Speaker 1: in your new home. Hang tight, buddy. Things will pass eventually.
- 52:36Speaker 1: If you want to get in touch with us like
- 52:38Speaker 1: Adam did and talk about bum guns or bras or
- 52:40Speaker 1: what have you, you can email. Send us an email
- 52:44Speaker 1: to stuffpodcasts at iheartradio.com.
- 52:50Speaker 2: Stuff You Should Know is a production of iHeartRadio.
- 52:53Speaker 1: For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts,
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