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The Venomous Mountain - Ben Nevis, Scotland · Off You Pop!

0:14
SPEAKER_00: This is Off You Pop, the podcast for hikers and adventurers who want to be epic in just one day.
0:21
SPEAKER_00: Some mountains rise.
0:24
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis exploded.
0:26
SPEAKER_00: Today we're heading to the top of the UK, Ben Nevis, 4,413 feet of volcanic ruin towering over Fort William.
0:37
SPEAKER_00: We're taking the classic mountain track approach, climbing from sea level into the broken rim of an ancient caldera, past the scars of fire and ice, past the ruins of a Victorian weather station, and onto a summit that feels like the edge of the world.
0:53
SPEAKER_00: This is the story behind the mountain, the geology that tore it apart, the people that tried to tame it, the observatory that defied the weather, and the landmarks that make Ben Nevis feel like a place carved out of myth.
1:08
SPEAKER_00: This is Off You Pop.
1:10
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis is the shattered heart of a 350 million year old volcano.
1:16
SPEAKER_00: During the Devonian and Carboniferous transition, Scotland sat near the equator.
1:22
SPEAKER_00: Tectonic collisions created massive volcanic systems, and Ben Nevis was one of them.
1:28
SPEAKER_00: But unlike a classic cone volcano, Ben Nevis is the remains of a collapsed cowdera.
1:35
SPEAKER_00: The summit plateau you stand on today is actually the inside of the volcano, the roof that fell inward after a massive explosion.
1:46
SPEAKER_00: On the upper mountain, you can literally place your hands on pink granite that was the called magma chamber, andesite lavas, the erupted material, and volcanic brechia, broken rock welded by heat.
2:03
SPEAKER_00: The cliffs of the north face, Tower Ridge, Observatory Gully, and Cairn Derg Buttress are the exposed guts of the volcano, carved by glaciers into some of the most dramatic climbing terrain in the UK.
2:18
SPEAKER_00: Glaciers later carved deep quarries, hanging valleys, sheer gullies, and the massive north face amphitheatre.
2:27
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis is a mountain built by fire and perfected by ice.
2:33
SPEAKER_00: For centuries, Ben Nevis was a landmark for sailors, a grazing ground, a hunting estate, and a boundary marker, but it wasn't climbed for recreation until the eighteenth century.
2:47
SPEAKER_00: From 1883 to 1904, a weather observatory was maintained at the top of the mountain.
2:55
SPEAKER_00: This is one of the wildest chapters in the mountain's history.
2:59
SPEAKER_00: Victorian scientists built a permanent weather observatory on the summit, a stone building staffed year round.
3:06
SPEAKER_00: To supply it, ponies carried coal, food and equipment up the mountain daily.
3:12
SPEAKER_00: Observers lived in brutal conditions, winds over a hundred mile an hour, temperatures well below freezing, months without seeing the ground, and snow drifts burying the buildings.
3:25
SPEAKER_00: They took hourly readings day and night for twenty one years.
3:30
SPEAKER_00: The ruins still stand on the summit, a monument to human stubbornness.
3:36
SPEAKER_00: The mountain track you climb today was originally the pony track, built to supply the observatory.
3:42
SPEAKER_00: It's engineered with switchbacks, retaining walls, stone pitching and drainage channels.
3:49
SPEAKER_00: It's not just a path, it's Victorian infrastructure carved into a volcano.
3:54
SPEAKER_00: Along the way you'll see significant landmarks.
3:57
SPEAKER_00: The halfway Lochan, Lochan Mille and Tusud, a small mountain lake perched at around 1800 feet, marking the transition from the lower glen to the upper volcanic plateau.
4:11
SPEAKER_00: The red burn, a key navigation point and a notorious descent hazard in winter.
4:17
SPEAKER_00: The zigzags, engineered switchbacks that climb the upper shoulder.
4:22
SPEAKER_00: They're not natural, they're built stonework, part of the old pony route.
4:27
SPEAKER_00: The summit plateau, a wide broken, boulder strewn expanse, the collapsed roof of the volcano.
4:35
SPEAKER_00: The North Face Invisible from the tourist path, only a few steps from the summit edge, a two thousand foot drop into one of the most famous climbing arenas in the world.
4:48
SPEAKER_00: The Summit Ruins.
4:50
SPEAKER_00: At the summit are the remains of the old weather observatory, an old summit shelter, and the meteorological tower base.
4:58
SPEAKER_00: They give the summit its distinctive silhouette.
5:01
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis carries stories older than the observatory.
5:05
SPEAKER_00: Some say the mountain is the body of a giant turned to stone.
5:10
SPEAKER_00: In Gaelic tradition, high places were often seen as thresholds to the other world.
5:16
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis, with its storms and sudden mists, was considered a place where the veil thins.
5:23
SPEAKER_00: The name Ben Nevis may mean venomous mountain, mountain of heaven or mountain of the clouds.
5:31
SPEAKER_00: All three fit.
5:33
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis isn't just the highest point in the UK, it's a mountain with a volcanic heart, a glacial face, and a Victorian crown, a cultural weight that pulls people from all over the world.
5:47
SPEAKER_00: In modern history, Ben Nevis didn't freeze in time when the observatory closed in 1904.
5:55
SPEAKER_00: If anything, that's when the mountain began its second life, the modern era of challenge, science, rescue, and culture.
6:03
SPEAKER_00: When the Summer Observatory closed in 1904, the mountain shifted from a scientific outpost to a public challenge.
6:11
SPEAKER_00: The pony track, once a supply route, became the main ascent for early hikers and climbers.
6:16
SPEAKER_00: Fort William grew into a gateway town.
6:19
SPEAKER_00: Hotels, guides, and outfitters appeared.
6:22
SPEAKER_00: The mountain became a symbol of the highlands.
6:25
SPEAKER_00: Rugged, remote, and irresistible.
6:28
SPEAKER_00: One could argue that Ben Nevis gave birth to Scottish mountaineering from the 1930s to the 1960s.
6:35
SPEAKER_00: The North Face transformed everything.
6:37
SPEAKER_00: Climbers discovered Tower Ridge, one of the finest alpine style ridges in the UK, Observatory Gully, a cathedral of winter and ice.5 Gully, the most famous ice climb in Scotland, and Cairn Dag Buttress, steep, technical and unforgiving.
6:55
SPEAKER_00: These routes turned Ben Nevis into a proving ground.
6:59
SPEAKER_00: If you could climb here in Scottish winter conditions, you could climb anywhere.
7:04
SPEAKER_00: The mountain became a training arena for early British alpinists, Himalayan expeditions, and military mountain units.
7:12
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis wasn't just a summit, it was a school.
7:16
SPEAKER_00: The mountain track became a national icon through the 1960s and 1990s.
7:21
SPEAKER_00: As outdoor culture grew, Ben Nevis became the mountain people had to climb.
7:26
SPEAKER_00: The mountain track saw improvements, wayfinding upgrades, increased footfall, and the rise of charity challenges.
7:33
SPEAKER_00: By the 1980s, tens of thousands of people were climbing it each year.
7:38
SPEAKER_00: The summit ruins once forgotten became a cultural landmark.
7:41
SPEAKER_00: People touched the stones, sat on the walls, took photos beside the trig point, and the mountain became part of the national imagination.
7:49
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis became the first or the last mountain in the UK's most famous endurance challenge, the Three Peaks Challenge, where you climb Ben Nevis, Scarfell Pike in England, and Snowden in Wales in 24 hours.
8:04
SPEAKER_00: This cemented its place as the mountain of beginnings and endings, the bookend of a national rite of passage.
8:10
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis has a much deeper history in climbing law.
8:14
SPEAKER_00: It is the place one famed Edmund Hillary, the first person to climb Mount Everest, used as his training ground.
8:22
SPEAKER_00: In the early 1950s, the British Everest team used the North Face as a winter training arena.
8:29
SPEAKER_00: Hillary climbed classic routes here: steep ice, mixed ground, brutal weather, the perfect preparation for the Kumbo Ice Fall and the Lotsi face.
8:40
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis helped shape the climber who would stand on top of the world.
8:45
SPEAKER_00: Today Ben Nevis is climbed by over 150,000 people each year.
8:50
SPEAKER_00: It's a mountain that belongs to everyone.
8:52
SPEAKER_00: Climbers, hikers, scientists, locals, visitors.
8:56
SPEAKER_00: A place where ancient geology meets modern culture.
8:59
SPEAKER_00: Ben Nevis is a mountain of fire and stone, some shaped by eruptions, some carved by ice, and some built by the people who refused to let the weather win.
9:10
SPEAKER_00: If you've stood on that summit, you know.
9:13
SPEAKER_00: If you haven't, well, let's get on the pop.
9:17
SPEAKER_00: So my journey to Ben Nevis began in the city of Glasgow, two and a half hours south of Fort William.
9:25
SPEAKER_00: And this is a good place for you to fly and get your rental car.
9:28
SPEAKER_00: I had flown there the evening before from Northern Ireland, as part of my UK six peaks challenge.
9:35
SPEAKER_00: It's the extended version of the UK Three Peaks Challenge that adds Ireland, Northern Ireland, and the Isle of Man.
9:42
SPEAKER_00: And for me, Ben Nevis was the midpoint, mountain number three.
9:47
SPEAKER_00: I woke up at 5 a.m.
9:50
SPEAKER_00: and started the long drive up to Fort William through the Scottish Highlands.
9:56
SPEAKER_00: And it was a spectacular drive.
9:58
SPEAKER_00: I stopped for coffee on the way, but then began the long, long winding road up through some of the most dramatic Heathland that you can imagine.
10:08
SPEAKER_00: The drive through Glencoe is truly spectacular, and even if you're not going to Fort William to climb Ben Nevis, I highly recommend a trip through this spectacular valley that is the gateway to the Scottish Highlands.
10:23
SPEAKER_00: And when I arrived in the town of Fort William, I stopped for some snacks for the mountain and then made my way to the Glen Nevis Visitors Centre where I parked my car.
10:34
SPEAKER_00: It was about 8 30 in the morning when I arrived, and I got my stuff ready.
10:39
SPEAKER_00: I'm just putting on my clothes when a van arrived full of four young, excited guys who were about to take on the Three Peaks Challenge, and they were super excited.
10:51
SPEAKER_00: And their dad was there to cheer them on.
10:54
SPEAKER_00: They were getting ready and putting their stuff on, and they asked me to take a photo and I said, Hey, are you doing the UK Three Peaks Challenge?
11:05
SPEAKER_00: And they excitedly responded yes.
11:07
SPEAKER_00: And I said, I'm doing the UK Six Peaks, and they didn't seem very impressed.
11:12
SPEAKER_00: Anyway, I let them finish up their preparation, gave them a few minutes to get ahead of me, and then I got on my way.
11:19
SPEAKER_00: I said to myself that I should probably not be competitive, but I couldn't help it.
11:23
SPEAKER_00: I thought it would be great if I could beat these four young lads up and down the mountain.
11:28
SPEAKER_00: And this was a little bit of a downfall.
11:31
SPEAKER_00: I started off by the little visitors center, and right there is a bridge that crosses the river Nevis and across a small field that starts leading up to the main pony track.
11:43
SPEAKER_00: As you cross the field, you reach a stile, cross the stile, and the climb begins.
11:49
SPEAKER_00: And the climb is relentless.
11:52
SPEAKER_00: It begins immediately, not too steep, but steep enough to let you know.
11:56
SPEAKER_00: I saw the boys off in the distance, just disappearing around the corner, and they were long ahead of me, and I don't didn't know that I had much hopes of catching them.
12:05
SPEAKER_00: It had been a long drive and a sleepless night, and I was feeling tired.
12:10
SPEAKER_00: I got myself wrapped up in too much clothing.
12:13
SPEAKER_00: I had three layers and I'd already put my raincoat on, expecting the rain to be often.
12:19
SPEAKER_00: As I started making my way up the trail, it's well marked and well paved.
12:24
SPEAKER_00: I was overheating quickly, and the harder I pushed, the hotter I got.
12:29
SPEAKER_00: And within fifteen minutes I had to admit defeat and strip off a layer.
12:34
SPEAKER_00: So I dropped my pack, took off a layer, put my raincoat back on, and continued the climb.
12:39
SPEAKER_00: And now the boys were well gone and there was no hope of me catching them, so my bravado was all for nothing.
12:45
SPEAKER_00: But as you're climbing out in the lower glen, it's green and lush, and you can see slowly as you climb the world opens up before you.
12:55
SPEAKER_00: There are wispy clouds rushing up the mountain.
12:58
SPEAKER_00: The weather's not too bad, it's warm with rain threatening, and you make your way up the trail, and suddenly it turns sharply left and sharply upward as you reach and climb out of the lower glen.
13:14
SPEAKER_00: And as you climb out the lower glen it gets much, much steeper.
13:18
SPEAKER_00: And you reach a small switchback, and this switchback takes you on to the lower shoulder where you see the halfway lochen at 1800 feet.
13:30
SPEAKER_00: Now it certainly doesn't feel like halfway, it feels like way less than halfway.
13:36
SPEAKER_00: But Ben Nevis is shrouded in clouds, so you can't see the top.
13:42
SPEAKER_00: But the halfway lochen is a chance for a small breather.
13:46
SPEAKER_00: It's flat, it's wide, and this loch sits on a precipice, kind of like one of those infinity pools in a fancy mansion.
13:55
SPEAKER_00: The Scottish version, if you like, and it seems just to drop away into nothing.
14:01
SPEAKER_00: And because the clouds are low and misty, you can't tell any different.
14:06
SPEAKER_00: As you cross the plateau on the halfway locken and you start the ascent into the zigzags, the trail gets steeper, and now the real climbing begins.
14:17
SPEAKER_00: And it starts to rain, and you start to disappear up into the clouds and start to lose the perspective of where you are.
14:24
SPEAKER_00: You pass the red burn and continue climbing, and I'm moving slowly.
14:30
SPEAKER_00: I'm feeling the wear of the day before I'd already climbed a couple of mountains, and it's getting gradually colder, and every now and then a rain squall will come in and pelt you with freezing rain that sounds like machine guns pinging off of your rain jacket, and you're forever lost in the zigzags.
14:50
SPEAKER_00: But there are plenty of people around enjoying the same misery that you are, the grimace on their faces, telling you that you're not alone in the challenge.
15:00
SPEAKER_00: And the zigzags is where you make or break your ascent to Ben Nevis.
15:06
SPEAKER_00: They are steep and they are relentless.
15:09
SPEAKER_00: They're easy to follow, but they never give up.
15:12
SPEAKER_00: And as I'm climbing higher and higher and higher up the mountain, I estimate I'm halfway up the zigzags, but really I have no idea because everything around me is surrounded in clouds, and now I'm in whiteout.
15:28
SPEAKER_00: I can no longer see the soft glen below, just white.
15:32
SPEAKER_00: The rain really starts to come in.
15:34
SPEAKER_00: The wind is howling, and I'm feeling it through my bones, and I'm feeling exhausted.
15:42
SPEAKER_00: I must be three thousand feet up the mountain, and I don't know for the first time whether I'm gonna make this or not.
15:49
SPEAKER_00: I realize I need to take on some fuel, I need to stop.
15:52
SPEAKER_00: I've been burning my way up the mountain, sweating through the glens, grinding up the first half of the zigzags without any real rest, and I needed to take a break.
16:03
SPEAKER_00: But it was not a break that was easy to achieve.
16:06
SPEAKER_00: I found a small rock next to the zigzag trail and tried to hide behind it, but it really didn't offer any shelter whatsoever from the relentless wind and rain.
16:17
SPEAKER_00: I dove into my pack to find a bar to s to chew on to give me a little bit of energy and took on some electrolytes, but every moment standing still made me colder and colder, and I hurriedly stuffed everything back in my pack and hoisted it back on my shoulder, determined to make it to the top, and I carried on, up the zigzags, up the trail, just relentlessly on, up, up, up the zigzags, and eventually the zigzags seemed to flatten out, and I thought perhaps this was it.
16:53
SPEAKER_00: Perhaps I'd made it to the top, but it's not the top.
16:57
SPEAKER_00: The zigzags are not where the ascent ends.
17:01
SPEAKER_00: I came across a very short, flattened area, and in front of me, I couldn't believe my eyes.
17:09
SPEAKER_00: There was a snowbank.
17:10
SPEAKER_00: Through the mist, a white snowbank.
17:14
SPEAKER_00: It's June.
17:15
SPEAKER_00: I couldn't believe it.
17:16
SPEAKER_00: And it was really hard to get a perspective on just how large this snow blank was and just how deep it went.
17:24
SPEAKER_00: I assumed I was at the summit of the mountain.
17:28
SPEAKER_00: Now there was a hiker in front of me, maybe a couple of hundred yards, and as I'm following, working my way towards the snowbank, he gets on top of it, and it gives me perspective.
17:40
SPEAKER_00: It is maybe 75 feet of snow that's going up the mountain and crossing the path.
17:48
SPEAKER_00: And I see him disappear into the mist and across the snowbank, and that gives me confidence that this is the way.
17:54
SPEAKER_00: And so I get to the snowbank, and it is slushy and well trodden, and I'm assuming that just across the snowbank is the peak.
18:04
SPEAKER_00: And so slowly I make my way up the snowbank, and as I'm going up, a crowd of hikers is coming back down very tentatively, tiptoeing across the snow.
18:17
SPEAKER_00: And I encourage them to consider sitting on their butts and sledding down, but they weren't having any of that.
18:23
SPEAKER_00: And as I made my way across the snowbank and to the other side, it felt like entering into a new phase of the mountain.
18:32
SPEAKER_00: Now there were cairns.
18:34
SPEAKER_00: Now the trail was much less switchbacked and much more direct.
18:38
SPEAKER_00: But this wasn't the top.
18:40
SPEAKER_00: And so I continued on, trying to follow the hiker in front of me, but he kept getting lost in the mist.
18:46
SPEAKER_00: But there were very defined cairns that you can follow, so it should be relatively easy to follow.
18:52
SPEAKER_00: Even in the snow, you follow the cairns.
18:55
SPEAKER_00: And slowly, slowly you make your way up, and it's getting colder and colder, and you are eventually getting to the summit.
19:02
SPEAKER_00: And then there's another snowbank, in fact, a huge snowfield.
19:06
SPEAKER_00: And I cannot understand where to go or which direction people have gone.
19:12
SPEAKER_00: There seems to be some footprints in the snow, but I'm aware there are huge 2,000 foot drop-offs if you make your way too close to the edge.
19:21
SPEAKER_00: And suddenly, across the snow comes the four young lads on their exciting adventure of the UK Three Peaks Challenge, and they let me know, it's just across the snow, follow the footprints, you can't miss it.
19:34
SPEAKER_00: I must be less than ten minutes behind them.
19:36
SPEAKER_00: And so I took their advice, I followed through the wide out, across the field of snow, and then suddenly you're there.
19:45
SPEAKER_00: You're in the ancient ruins of the Victorian Weather Observatory.
19:49
SPEAKER_00: You can see the Trig Point Tower, you can see the old weather shelter.
19:53
SPEAKER_00: It feels dark, it feels mystic, it feels cold, it feels like you're in the ruins.
20:01
SPEAKER_00: And all around you, the wind is whipping and the cloud is zooming past you, and it is freezing.
20:08
SPEAKER_00: I can feel my body temperature dropping dramatically.
20:11
SPEAKER_00: I make a decision to get up onto the trig point, which stands maybe 20-30 of feet above the surrounding landscape.
20:19
SPEAKER_00: And as I get on the trig point, you are fully exposed.
20:22
SPEAKER_00: The wind blasts you, and you can feel it.
20:26
SPEAKER_00: This is Ben Nevis.
20:28
SPEAKER_00: I quickly descend, hide behind the observatory point, and feel just how frigid and cold I am on top of this mountain.
20:36
SPEAKER_00: And I decide this is no place to stay and be a tourist.
20:41
SPEAKER_00: It's time to get off this mountain.
20:43
SPEAKER_00: And with the boys just ahead of me, I thought there was hope.
20:46
SPEAKER_00: This UK six pigs old dog might beat the UK three pigs, young guns on their fresh legs.
20:53
SPEAKER_00: So I started making quick work across the way I came, back across the snowfield, back down the cairns, now moving with care but moving at pace, across that snowbank, almost glissading down at speed, and then back into the switchbacks.
21:10
SPEAKER_00: And I'm not but one or two switchbacks into the climb and I'm out of the mist, and I see the boys and I pass them, and I am now running.
21:19
SPEAKER_00: I am moving at pace.
21:22
SPEAKER_00: I am loving the mountain.
21:23
SPEAKER_00: I'm letting the mountain take me down, down back to the glen, back through the zigzags, back down, through the halfway lochen, back into the glen.
21:34
SPEAKER_00: And it is a beautiful, beautiful run down.
21:37
SPEAKER_00: Because it's graded and because it's so well maintained, it's really easy to find your footing and make your way back down the mountain.
21:45
SPEAKER_00: I think it took me three hours to get to the top of the mountain, but soon I was back past the halfway lochen.
21:52
SPEAKER_00: It was warming up.
21:54
SPEAKER_00: I was making my way back down to the glen, and I was crossing the river Nevis.
21:59
SPEAKER_00: And when I crossed that final river, guess who was there?
22:03
SPEAKER_00: Dad.
22:03
SPEAKER_00: So I says to Dad, Dad, we made a bet.
22:07
SPEAKER_00: Whoever gets back first wins a hundred bucks, and the boy said you're good for it.
22:11
SPEAKER_00: He looked at me humorously and gave a chuckle.
22:14
SPEAKER_00: And I made my bay back to the car to relax after just having run down Ben Nevis.
22:21
SPEAKER_00: It was spectacular and beautiful, and what a run rush down.
22:26
SPEAKER_00: But on the way up, what a venomous mountain.
22:29
SPEAKER_00: Such a grind.
22:30
SPEAKER_00: So cold, so exposed.
22:33
SPEAKER_00: You can just imagine the wind and the weather whipping off of the of the Atlantic Ocean on the north of Scotland, and the first thing it encounters is Ben Nevis.
22:43
SPEAKER_00: Just that wind whipping off the ocean and up the mountain made it so cold and so frigid.
22:49
SPEAKER_00: So I took my clothes off and changed into some street clothes, intended to go for lunch, but I had another secret mission in mind.
22:57
SPEAKER_00: I wanted one thing to remember this hike by, and so I got in my car and I drove through the town and made my way to the Ben Nevis distillery.
23:07
SPEAKER_00: Walked in and bought myself a bottle of 10-year-old single mort made from the waters of Ben Nevis.
23:14
SPEAKER_00: What a beautiful souvenir.
23:17
SPEAKER_00: Anyway, Ben Nevis, a vicious, vicious mountain.
23:20
SPEAKER_00: If you're gonna go climb this one, don't think it's easy.
23:23
SPEAKER_00: This is not an easy mountain, and the weather can change on a dime.
23:28
SPEAKER_00: So many people get in trouble on this mountain every year.
23:31
SPEAKER_00: In fact, I believe the local rescue squad is one of the busiest in the UK.
23:36
SPEAKER_00: One because people underestimate what they're getting into, but two, just because the weather changes like that.
23:43
SPEAKER_00: It's really one minute it's beautiful sunshine, and the next you're in galing winds with freezing rain.
23:51
SPEAKER_00: But that was the highest peak in the UK.
23:55
SPEAKER_00: We did it.
23:56
SPEAKER_00: That was Ben Nevis.
23:58
SPEAKER_00: Now off you pop.