Latest / Skin Anarchy / Fall Fragrance Edit: The Best Vanilla & Oud Scents Curated by Olya Bar
Transcript
- 0:00SPEAKER_01: Hey guys, welcome back.
- 0:01SPEAKER_01: This is a very special episode.
- 0:03SPEAKER_01: It is our annual fragrance guide for all of you, and we have our amazing expert that we invite every year to bring her favorites on and kind of teach us about what's the hottest right now in fragrance.
- 0:16SPEAKER_01: And so this one is going to be very dedicated to fall.
- 0:19SPEAKER_01: So please welcome back Olia Barr.
- 0:20SPEAKER_01: Welcome, Olia.
- 0:21SPEAKER_01: I'm so excited to learn from you again this year about what's really going on in the fragrance industry, what the best fragrances are right now.
- 0:28SPEAKER_00: I am so excited to be here.
- 0:29SPEAKER_00: So thank you for having me.
- 0:30SPEAKER_00: I'm super excited to be here.
- 0:32SPEAKER_00: You know, we've done this a few times, and every single time it's it's a pleasure to share all my passions, share what fragrances I have been excited about, and to just chat with you about life and all things scented skincare and everything in between in between.
- 0:47SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
- 0:47SPEAKER_01: No, I look forward to this every year, and I feel like you always find the best fragrances every year.
- 0:54SPEAKER_01: Just they always hit the spot.
- 0:55SPEAKER_01: They're always, you know, on point.
- 0:57SPEAKER_01: And I know anyone who's been following along, I know you guys have checked out our scent guides.
- 1:02SPEAKER_01: We get quite a few questions every time we do this episode.
- 1:04SPEAKER_01: So I'm really excited to dive in.
- 1:06SPEAKER_01: But what's been new with you?
- 1:08SPEAKER_01: Like what's been going on this year?
- 1:09SPEAKER_00: So, you know, a lot of things on a personal level and professional level, because you know, my role has been has changed a bit.
- 1:15SPEAKER_00: So I'm still in fragrance, of course, but now I'm the head of marketing for an entire digital division at EuroPerfum.
- 1:21SPEAKER_00: So it's been really exciting because we have some really amazing brands that we're kind of leading into this whole digital world and helping them navigate.
- 1:29SPEAKER_00: So that's been really exciting.
- 1:31SPEAKER_00: I had a baby, so I'm a new mom.
- 1:33SPEAKER_00: That's really exciting as well.
- 1:35SPEAKER_00: And it's been interesting because I feel like my taste has definitely changed.
- 1:39SPEAKER_00: I was not, thank God, affected in terms of you know not being able to wear fragrance at all, which I know some women have been saying that that's been their experience during pregnancy and afterwards.
- 1:50SPEAKER_00: For me, it was just a change in my in taste, not so much in even my perception, just things that used to excite me so much before.
- 1:58SPEAKER_00: Now I'm not so tasty anymore.
- 2:01SPEAKER_00: So that's been quite interesting.
- 2:03SPEAKER_00: And then, of course, exploring all the fragrances.
- 2:05SPEAKER_00: I actually traveled to Milan while pregnant.
- 2:08SPEAKER_00: I was six months pregnant at the time, and that's the biggest show for the fragrance basically of the year.
- 2:15SPEAKER_00: Well, now there are quite a few more.
- 2:16SPEAKER_00: There's one in Dubai, there's, you know, one happening even in China, there's one in Mexico, but I would say that the original one is still in Milan, the Assange.
- 2:24SPEAKER_00: So I was smelling so many different launches, kind of just working my way through all these exciting new things that are just some of them are just launching now, because of course you get a preview.
- 2:34SPEAKER_00: So it's been it's been quite a busy year, I would say.
- 2:38SPEAKER_01: Yeah, no, it sounds like it.
- 2:39SPEAKER_01: I mean, it's it I always love your take on you know fragrance because I feel like you're always able to really discern like what the newness is, you know what I mean?
- 2:48SPEAKER_01: But still keep that like it's always unique.
- 2:51SPEAKER_01: Because right now, I I'm not gonna lie, whenever I look on social media, everyone's talking about the same thing.
- 2:55SPEAKER_01: And it's very hard if you're not really, you know, and oh, you know, we have talked about this.
- 3:00SPEAKER_01: If you're not really from the fragrance world, you know, it can be very difficult to find like something that's new, something that's unique.
- 3:06SPEAKER_01: And I think for me, especially, I'll tell you, right now, all the gourmands and all the vanillas, everything blends together.
- 3:12SPEAKER_01: So it's very difficult to figure out like where how can I really find that like signature set for myself, especially for fall and winter months.
- 3:20SPEAKER_01: So I'm very excited to kind of dive in.
- 3:22SPEAKER_01: And I I'll kind of let you take the mic now.
- 3:25SPEAKER_01: And if you want to go through and tell us what your favorite source, you know, for the year.
- 3:29SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I'm excited.
- 3:30SPEAKER_00: So let's dive right in.
- 3:32SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 3:32SPEAKER_00: So a brand that I'm actually gonna dive into vanilla fragrances, because vanilla is not going anywhere.
- 3:39SPEAKER_00: She continues to rain, and she is quite powerful.
- 3:44SPEAKER_00: But what I'm noticing about vanilla fragrances, of course, there are still juvenile launches with, you know, those kind of sugary cupcake kind of vanillas, but those are not the ones that are exciting to me.
- 3:54SPEAKER_00: And I'm noticing that people, especially who are whether they're collectors or they've been into fragrances for quite a while, they are, of course, developing tastes for things that are deeper, richer, more interesting.
- 4:06SPEAKER_00: So those are the ones that I'm gonna cover today.
- 4:08SPEAKER_00: Of course, if you like cupcake type vanilla, that's your thing.
- 4:11SPEAKER_00: There's no judgment on my end.
- 4:12SPEAKER_00: It's just kind of I've noticed that tastes usually start to develop.
- 4:16SPEAKER_00: And when somebody starts who gets into fragrances, a lot of things that are very sugary are exciting, and there's a lot of marshmallows out there and things like that.
- 4:25SPEAKER_00: But eventually, just like anything else, you end up graduating towards, you know, kind of more interesting cocktails, so to say, of the fragrance world, kind of better compositions.
- 4:35SPEAKER_00: So I think that's what's happening to a lot of people.
- 4:38SPEAKER_00: And one brand that particularly stood out to me, I did get to smell this brand actually in Milan.
- 4:43SPEAKER_00: And then later on, we continue this relationship where they were kind enough to send this fragrance to me because they unveiled it there, but it just launched actually a few months ago.
- 4:51SPEAKER_00: And this is a brand from South Africa and it's called Reserve and a Freak.
- 4:56SPEAKER_00: So it's actually an interesting story because I want to kind of give a little bit of story behind them because they're new to the US market, they are not really widely available as of yet.
- 5:05SPEAKER_00: However, if you can hunt down those brands, I believe they're only available in like one place, and then of course you can shop on their website, but it's such an exciting brand because they were doing a lot of conservation efforts in South Africa, and the family actually owns lands and been, you know, working on preserving uh the reserve, the plantations that I think reserves kind of like this natural habitat.
- 5:29SPEAKER_00: And they originally they and this has been since 1934 that it's been in their family.
- 5:34SPEAKER_00: But of course, in the past few years, they decided that it was time to develop a line of fragrances.
- 5:39SPEAKER_00: And what I think it was interesting is that they only use ingredients from the African continent.
- 5:44SPEAKER_00: So every single ingredient that is used in every single fragrance that they launch comes from a certain part of the continent, and their vanilla is superb.
- 5:52SPEAKER_00: So it's called vanille uh maffonia, if I'm pronouncing that right.
- 5:56SPEAKER_00: I mean, let's not hold me to it.
- 5:58SPEAKER_00: And this is the nose behind it is Alexandra Monet, and it's such a gorgeous vanilla because it has this very salty opening, but then of course it highlights the best facets of the Madagascaran vanilla, and then you have this interesting kind of spicy, more deeper warmth of cinnamon and pink pepper.
- 6:18SPEAKER_00: You have nut nutmeg, and then the dry-down has this kind of tropical um.
- 6:24SPEAKER_00: So you feel like you're walking through the jungle, but yet you're still inhaling this really warm, hot air.
- 6:30SPEAKER_00: And at the same time, you kind of have this like warmth of the fire that you're sitting next to.
- 6:35SPEAKER_00: So it's this just stunning composition that I think is so beautiful.
- 6:40SPEAKER_00: It also has this resinous touch of myrrh and olibanum.
- 6:43SPEAKER_00: So it's just ambery, like it's it's stunning.
- 6:46SPEAKER_00: So if you can get your nose on it, I highly recommend.
- 6:48SPEAKER_00: And also their packaging, their whole presentation just really took my breath away, which is which does not happen so often because, of course, when you know you smell so many fragrances, some launches are bad, some launches are mediocre.
- 7:01SPEAKER_00: So it's really just a few that really end up sparking my interest to a point where I'm obsessed and actually end up wearing this so much.
- 7:08SPEAKER_00: So that is one brand and vanilla that I think really stood out for me.
- 7:11SPEAKER_00: Another one, and I we have quite a few to get through, is by Matier Premiere.
- 7:16SPEAKER_00: And this is a vanilla powder, but this is actually the X-trait version.
- 7:21SPEAKER_00: So the original was launched, I believe, last year, and it really took the fragrance world by storm.
- 7:27SPEAKER_00: It was this really interesting kind of coconut powder, Halo Santo vanilla that was very woodsy, was by no means sweet.
- 7:37SPEAKER_00: You know, there was definitely a hint of that sweetness, but almost like from that raw vanilla, if you if you ever smell the bean itself, it's boozy, it's it's dark, it's it's almost leather even sometimes.
- 7:47SPEAKER_00: So that vanilla powder truly just broke records in terms of sales and and popularity.
- 7:53SPEAKER_00: But it was interesting because you know, the perfumer who is the owner of the brand, he really focuses on spotlighting one ingredient in every single fragrance that he launches.
- 8:08SPEAKER_00: And in this particular one, in the X-ray version, he actually swapped out the original ingredients that was kind of the secondary one to highlight the vanilla, and he used tunker bean instead.
- 8:20SPEAKER_00: So in the original one, and by the name, by the way, his name is Aurelian Gishard.
- 8:24SPEAKER_00: He is a master perfumer, he's been creating for so many different brands.
- 8:28SPEAKER_00: You probably know a lot of people would know his work in for Narciso Rodriguez.
- 8:32SPEAKER_00: He created almost all of those masterpieces for the brands.
- 8:35SPEAKER_00: I mean, he's been he's been working on so many different ones.
- 8:38SPEAKER_00: And when he launched Matia Premiere, the concept was to highlight the ingredients, and they actually grow some of the ingredients in South France.
- 8:47SPEAKER_00: So they have their own tuberos fields, and they're now they're, you know, it's just incredible when they're harvesting these ingredients and roses, I believe they also grow.
- 9:00SPEAKER_00: And I think they're getting into saffron.
- 9:02SPEAKER_00: You know, I might be wrong on that, but there's definitely quite a range of ingredients that they're growing themselves.
- 9:08SPEAKER_00: So for the vanilla powder, he focused on vanilla, but also the secondary ingredient to kind of highlight all of that is tonka bean.
- 9:16SPEAKER_00: And tonka bean is this really interesting, nutty, really kind of ambery, warm, and at the same time very vanilla kind of ingredient that just works so well with vanilla itself.
- 9:29SPEAKER_00: So it's interesting to see this x-trait because not only it's starting to gain a lot of popularity because it's just been launched like about a month ago, not even, but we're looking and expecting it to possibly even surpass the original.
- 9:44SPEAKER_00: So it's interesting to see because it's so much deeper and it's so much nuttier and it kind of has this more depth even than the original.
- 9:51SPEAKER_00: I also think it's less powdery, to my nose, at least.
- 9:54SPEAKER_00: So I think this is a marvelous vanilla that anyone who loves sophisticated, dark, kind of almost like boozy, take on a vanilla.
- 10:01SPEAKER_00: This would be an interesting one.
- 10:03SPEAKER_00: Another one that I would say has been really fun, and this brand, by the way, is definitely one to pay attention to if you kind of like things that are a little on a rebellious side because the brand is called Fugazi.
- 10:18SPEAKER_00: And of course, you know, we know the term Fugazi Fugazi, and this is kind of the whole concept of the house.
- 10:24SPEAKER_00: And it was it actually from Amsterdam, and the brand really has all these fun names that are like Angel Dust, and I mean they have so many different ones, but uh they have like Sugar Daddy and all these other ones, and the owner Bram, he's quite a young guy and he just kind of was having a little bit of fun in the beginning.
- 10:45SPEAKER_00: I don't think he was really taking himself too seriously when he started the brands, but then it really started gaining traction.
- 10:50SPEAKER_00: He got into this really cool fashion in Amsterdam, and then he realized that he actually had something there, so he started building out the line, and he launched, of course, he didn't really have a garment until he launched the vanilla haze, which is this really interesting and kind of delicious, of course, vanilla-based fragrance.
- 11:10SPEAKER_00: But I would say this is very buttery, so this is definitely in the genre of fragrances that for people who really like their fragrances, sweet, but it also is balanced out with this kind of cashmere base that makes it very airy, and it also has this nuttiness of the almond and hazelnut and coconut milk.
- 11:32SPEAKER_00: So I think this is a good one for anybody who likes their games, definitely on a sweeter end.
- 11:37SPEAKER_00: However, likes the fragrances to really kind of be more on a molecular side because the cashmere wood is, you know, it's a synthetic molecule, it's kind of works similar to like a broxen, which is uh synthetic amber grey or kind of in the direction of synthetic musk.
- 11:52SPEAKER_00: So it makes the fragrance really big and volatile, and people like that.
- 11:56SPEAKER_00: So they actually launched just this year within the past month, they launched the vanilla haze extrait, and that one is also more spicier and has a little bit more depth than the original.
- 12:09SPEAKER_00: And I have to say that extraits in general seem to be having quite a moment.
- 12:14SPEAKER_00: We're seeing so many different brands launch an extrait version of their top sellers, and I think it definitely works because people like the deeper, kind of bigger versions of some of the best sellers, and this one gives them that option.
- 12:31SPEAKER_00: And this one is very boozy as well.
- 12:33SPEAKER_00: So I feel like to me, even though there are no boozy ingredients, so to say, but it seems like this kind of concept of booziness has been pretty big in the past year.
- 12:42SPEAKER_00: But we'll we can you know come back to that subject in a bit.
- 12:45SPEAKER_00: So those vanillas are definitely some of my really most worn.
- 12:50SPEAKER_00: And then the vanilla that I just received in a mail literally a few days ago is from Atelier de Zoe.
- 12:57SPEAKER_00: And this is a house from you know, so from south of France.
- 13:00SPEAKER_00: They've been, I mean, they have um gold floating in their bottles, they have absolutely stunning packaging, and they already had one of their bestsellers that was called Lune Filine, which is a dark and really kind of ambery, leathery, resinous vanilla that has been just a staple in a lot of wardrobes when it comes to vanilla lovers.
- 13:21SPEAKER_00: But this year they actually launched a vanilla, and I might be mispronouncing this.
- 13:25SPEAKER_00: This is like Nova, Novae, but it's the the bottle is gorgeous, and this is a more powdery version on a vanilla with a really big fluffy mimosa at the heart.
- 13:38SPEAKER_00: And I found this to be really interesting because this is, but it's by no means a feminine one, so I think that was interesting how they were able to execute this because it's kind of hard to make a vanilla so balanced and has have depth and at the same time not you know have it tip over into that really powdery kind of land that a lot of people associate with, you know, makeup or things like this.
- 14:05SPEAKER_00: So to me, this is a very almost like a it has this interesting concept of minerality, it has a mineral opening, which is unusual for a vanilla, and I think it balances out so well.
- 14:16SPEAKER_00: So that's definitely a vanilla that's that's worth your noses.
- 14:20SPEAKER_00: So another vanilla that's by Mancera, that's and they all have like vanilla in the name, but you know, since this is vanilla opening, we're gonna go through all the highlights.
- 14:32SPEAKER_00: And of course, Mancera is a sister brand of Montal, and Montal notoriously has so many different vanillas.
- 14:38SPEAKER_00: They have sweet vanilla, they have vanilla cake.
- 14:40SPEAKER_00: I mean, they they literally have a whole range of vanillas.
- 14:44SPEAKER_00: But Mansera, which is a brand that was started by Pierre Montal's daughter, is a sister brand and they have so many beautiful gourmands.
- 14:52SPEAKER_00: But last year they launched, I think it was last year, they launched a moray cafe, which smells like alfogato.
- 14:58SPEAKER_00: It's oh my god, it's delicious.
- 14:59SPEAKER_00: But this year they really went with uh brown sugar and ood vanilla with dark chocolate.
- 15:06SPEAKER_00: So I don't think this is everyone's cup of tea because the dark chocolate really pulls it into this kind of dark boozy blends before anybody who likes their vanilla with a lot of depth and prefer and appreciates oud, and we're gonna talk about ood in a little bit, which I think this particularly uh fits into both of these categories.
- 15:29SPEAKER_00: Um, this is a really beautiful take on this because it's quite unusual.
- 15:33SPEAKER_00: I don't see so many good balanced ouds with dark chocolates out there.
- 15:39SPEAKER_00: There's really not that many fragrances, even a feature in chocolate.
- 15:42SPEAKER_00: But chocolate seems to be quite a conversation piece this year.
- 15:46SPEAKER_00: So Kayali launched something with chocolate, you know, the other brands are kind of tapping into this ingredient.
- 15:52SPEAKER_00: So it's interesting to see this.
- 15:53SPEAKER_00: But I definitely think Men Sarah is have they have nailed it, but you have to wear this on skin because oot performs a little bit differently on everyone.
- 16:01SPEAKER_00: So kind of a tricky one.
- 16:03SPEAKER_00: And another one that I loved, which is not your traditional vanilla, but it's really, I think it kind of deserves to be in a vanilla lineup because this is more of an amber sweet and slightly even fruity take on it.
- 16:20SPEAKER_00: But this is by Lise, and this is a woody aromatic vanilla, in my opinion, that's again launched this year.
- 16:26SPEAKER_00: I love what they were doing for the past you know two, three years.
- 16:30SPEAKER_00: I've been following the brands, and I love Beau, which is super beautiful woodsy tobacco, like a grounding one.
- 16:38SPEAKER_00: They launched uh Shushu last year, which was inspired by these like childhood memories and and childhood nicknames and just beautiful gourmands.
- 16:48SPEAKER_00: But this year they went with this interesting, it actually doesn't even feature a vanilla, but to me it dries down very sweet.
- 16:55SPEAKER_00: So I kind of plopped it in this category, and it's this peppery opening with a rice note in the heart and almond with tonka bean and lab dinum.
- 17:04SPEAKER_00: And for me, tonka bean, like I said before, is very vanillic.
- 17:08SPEAKER_00: So I kind of had to add this to this category, but then it has quince in the opening.
- 17:12SPEAKER_00: So it has this kind of really well-balanced, fruity, fun, flirtatious, luminous opening, and then it dries down a little bit more.
- 17:19SPEAKER_00: It gets serious in a few hours on skin.
- 17:22SPEAKER_00: So I, you know, those have been in my rotation nonstop since I have, you know, since I added them to my collection.
- 17:30SPEAKER_00: And one that I'm really excited about, it's upcoming because it hasn't been launched in the US just yet, but it's by BDK Parfums and it's called Vanilla Caviar.
- 17:41SPEAKER_00: And BDK Parfums have they can't do not wrong by me.
- 17:45SPEAKER_00: I like own the entire collection, probably minus like one or two.
- 17:49SPEAKER_00: And this one sounds like it's gonna be a really delicious launch.
- 17:53SPEAKER_00: So I can't wait for that one to hit the US market.
- 17:56SPEAKER_01: I love that, and I love how you went into the different like takes on vanilla because I am so glad that you went in this direction.
- 18:03SPEAKER_01: Because honestly, for me, it's just it was becoming so redundant, you know, this category, and it was like every perfume I was smelling is like, you know, the same over and over again.
- 18:13SPEAKER_01: So I like that you brought in so many different like facets here with all the collections because you know, I think that's one of the biggest things that I'm noticing is people are looking for a new take on vanilla.
- 18:22SPEAKER_01: It's definitely out there, but it's very difficult, I think, to find that one that you really resonate with.
- 18:28SPEAKER_01: So these sound phenomenal.
- 18:29SPEAKER_00: I'm excited.
- 18:30SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 18:31SPEAKER_00: Thank you for noticing it because you know, I think I completely agree with you.
- 18:34SPEAKER_00: There's so many launches happening every day that it's kind of getting to a point where it's it's close to impossible to get your nose on all of them as a marketer, as a fragrance collector, as a consumer.
- 18:46SPEAKER_00: So really trying to cut through the noise and just limiting the amount of things that you can even try yourself and really give it a proper wear, because of course you're not gonna sample 100 different fragrances.
- 18:56SPEAKER_00: As a consumer, it's just close to impossible.
- 18:58SPEAKER_00: And why?
- 18:59SPEAKER_00: Why you don't need to do that?
- 19:01SPEAKER_00: So really narrow it down and just kind of going in for like a really curated tasting, so to say, that you can do yourself by ordering samples or discovery sets these days.
- 19:10SPEAKER_00: I think because it's hard to find all of these in one place.
- 19:13SPEAKER_00: So I would say that you know, that's something that you can definitely find across.
- 19:18SPEAKER_00: Perhaps ordering a sample would be easier than well, some of them you could find if you pop into some stores, but I think that having this kind of tasting perhaps at home with a glass of vino just makes it extra special.
- 19:31SPEAKER_01: Oh, it sounds so lovely.
- 19:32SPEAKER_01: And I love it because it's honestly at the end of the day, for fragrance, I know around the fall time we're looking for a lot of people are looking for that comforting scent, you know, and it's like very difficult because for me, I'll tell you right now, when it comes to anything gourmand, it wears so differently every time I find out from me on my skin, you know.
- 19:52SPEAKER_01: And I feel like when I read reviews, it's difficult for me to like understand should I buy this or not?
- 19:56SPEAKER_01: Because with my pH and what I experience, it's always different, you know, than all the reviews and stuff.
- 20:02SPEAKER_01: So it's really a hard category, I think, in that way, you know.
- 20:05SPEAKER_00: Of course.
- 20:05SPEAKER_00: And same thing, and by the way, same thing for ouds that we're about to jump into next, because that's a whole other thing.
- 20:11SPEAKER_01: And I want to speak a little bit on this, okay?
- 20:14SPEAKER_01: Because oud is such a I feel like ood is so misunderstood as a category.
- 20:19SPEAKER_01: I mean, I've seen a lot of, and you know, correct me if I'm wrong, but I've heard a lot of commentary from people where it's like, oh, you know, I can't wear ood, I can't, you know, it doesn't wear well on me.
- 20:28SPEAKER_01: What is your before we even dive into your favorites, like what's your advice to us in terms of wearing ood in general and working with it, whether it's through layering or whatever it might be, you know, in terms of really making it come out in terms of our clothing or skin or wherever we're putting it on?
- 20:43SPEAKER_00: So I love that question, and I love that you're, you know, you're trying to get a little bit more information because oud is a tricky ingredient.
- 20:49SPEAKER_00: So for anybody who may not be familiar with ood, is uh it's an ingredient that originates from particular um bacteria that affects a very particular tree, it's called ocularia tree, and it needs to age, you know.
- 21:03SPEAKER_00: So once that once that bacteria, kind of like this fungus, affects the tree, and then this process begins, then that chunk of tree that's being harvested has to age for a very long period of time.
- 21:17SPEAKER_00: And the quality of ood, the price of ood, and the source of ood will vary depending on that.
- 21:23SPEAKER_00: And of course, we'll actually jump into one particular one by Creed, which was aged like 80 years, and that perhaps could be the reason for this enormous price tag that it has.
- 21:33SPEAKER_00: But there are different brands that are using different types of ood.
- 21:36SPEAKER_00: A lot of them are using synthetic ood, and there's nothing wrong with that as well, because of course a lot of a lot of ouds come from Middle East in terms of the ingredient being sourced, and there's a lot, and in the Middle East, it's very common to wear ouds.
- 21:52SPEAKER_00: I would say that ood is uh as a ingredient in perfect in perfumes came to US quite recently.
- 21:59SPEAKER_00: If you really Look at the range of years that it's been worn across different countries, in the US, particularly, and even in Europe, it's only been around for the past 10 to 15 years and truly getting to be known by the majority of people as a regular consumer who shops in like Sephora or Macy's or Bloomendale's, you know, and doesn't really go in depth in terms of fragrance search.
- 22:20SPEAKER_00: I would say even shortened that to maybe the last five to seven years, ever since like Tom Ford launched, you know, more ood-based fragrances, and it really started getting more noticed.
- 22:32SPEAKER_00: But I think it really depends on what type of fragrance do you like, because oud can be very smoky, very resinous, almost boozy.
- 22:42SPEAKER_00: It could be very sweet, it could be very light as well, depending on the blend and depending on whether it's synthetic or not.
- 22:50SPEAKER_00: Because, like, for example, for anybody who is afraid of oud, I would start with Chabot, which is a brand from south of France, and they have this one fragrance that's called Mysterious Oud.
- 23:01SPEAKER_00: And it's one of the lightest ouds that I've ever encountered in my entire life.
- 23:05SPEAKER_00: I remember smelling it thinking, this doesn't even smell like oud, but yet it possesses the warmth, it possesses this really kind of airy, um, kind of like mystery.
- 23:15SPEAKER_00: So I think like the name suits it because this whole concept of mysterious oud, it's almost like you can't quite pinpoint it when you're wearing it.
- 23:22SPEAKER_00: Like, where's the actual oud?
- 23:23SPEAKER_00: I don't know if they're using the synthetic or original, you know, or the real version.
- 23:28SPEAKER_00: I would have to probably email the brand just to find out.
- 23:31SPEAKER_00: But it does not matter because the price is really most likely synthetic just because the price point is very low.
- 23:36SPEAKER_00: But it's such a digestible ood, especially for somebody who's just getting into it, that I would say this can really be an easy wear.
- 23:44SPEAKER_00: And then little by little you can work your way into something perhaps a little darker.
- 23:48SPEAKER_00: Um, ood wood, you know, is something by Tom Ford, which is one of their top sellers.
- 23:53SPEAKER_00: I'm not sure if it's still in a collection because some of the things got discontinued, but it actually was very commercial for the lack of a better word.
- 24:00SPEAKER_00: But I don't mean anything bad by it.
- 24:02SPEAKER_00: Actually, when a fragrance is kind of commercially built, means it's more digestible for the public and easier to understand.
- 24:08SPEAKER_00: They usually will become a best one of the top sellers simply because people can actually wear it versus buying something that becomes this kind of piece of art that you don't really know what to do with.
- 24:18SPEAKER_00: You paid a lot of money for it, but you can't really wear it every day because it's gonna choke you and everybody else around you.
- 24:24SPEAKER_00: Um, so it's it's interesting because, of course, you know, in the Middle East, the ood can be used to smoke your clothing, to, you know, as part of the baker, um, to kind of enhance the scent of your hair, the the house, and everything else.
- 24:38SPEAKER_00: Of course, in Western cultures, you know, this is not common.
- 24:41SPEAKER_00: So usually we encounter ood in fragrances.
- 24:44SPEAKER_00: And uh today, people are kind of getting a taste of it in various ways for it to you need to keep testing.
- 24:51SPEAKER_00: And some of the oods that I'm gonna mention today, I think are gonna be interesting in that sense because some of them are gonna be a little bit on the heavy side, and perhaps those are gonna be for a bit more seasoned, you know, perfume addicts.
- 25:03SPEAKER_00: But for there's gonna be a few that are gonna be easier to digest.
- 25:06SPEAKER_00: And you know, we can definitely start with those because one of the brands that I actually wanted to mention that was one of the first French brands, actually, among the first to really highlight oud was Pierre Montal, you know, Montal Paris.
- 25:21SPEAKER_00: And they've they've been making ouds for the past two decades almost.
- 25:26SPEAKER_00: You know, they had black oud, dark oods, Nepal oud, white ood, just to name a few.
- 25:31SPEAKER_00: And each one would be quite different because like the dark ood that I've been wearing for many, many years by Montal is this blend of leather oud and sandal wood.
- 25:42SPEAKER_00: And it's one of the best and super underrated fragrances in the Montal entire collection.
- 25:47SPEAKER_00: And the entire collection is perhaps like uh about 150 SKUs by now, if not more.
- 25:52SPEAKER_00: So it's a vast collection of fragrances.
- 25:55SPEAKER_00: Most of them have been discontinued in the US market, but in Europe you can still find them.
- 26:00SPEAKER_00: And now, because they the brand has entered Sephora, so they definitely became a little bit more commercially focused, they're kind of making fragrances that are a bit more easier to understand.
- 26:11SPEAKER_00: And recently they launched the ood saporat.
- 26:14SPEAKER_00: So it's built as a woody sheep, and the it opens up with a pineapple, like really big, bright, juicy, ripe pineapple, but then it jumps into this Cambodian ood and saffron, which is highly aromatic and fragrant, and then the dry down goes into birch and cinnamon with coconut and musk.
- 26:34SPEAKER_00: So the blend kind of starts tropical, then dips into something more dark, resinous, and then comes back into that tropical warmth with coconut.
- 26:42SPEAKER_00: So this interesting trends kind of you know experience that you will get on skin.
- 26:47SPEAKER_00: I definitely think you need to try this because this is not, this may work for some, this may not work for others.
- 26:53SPEAKER_00: Um, but it's one that I think is really fun.
- 26:56SPEAKER_00: If you've never quite experienced ood and perhaps you're a little afraid of it, pop into Sephora, you know, or you can go on their website and order yourself a sample.
- 27:04SPEAKER_00: But of course, that's a fragrance that is definitely fun, and it works surprisingly for summer and fall and winter because of that combo of that tropical aspect and the warmth of the ood, which is sometimes can work very well in the heat.
- 27:21SPEAKER_00: But I think most people tend to gravitate towards it in the kind of colder seasons when big fragrances like that kind of ends up working like your cozy coat or like a shawl.
- 27:33SPEAKER_00: So that is one.
- 27:34SPEAKER_00: Another one that I would say was really interesting, again, in the sense that it uses this tropical kind of direction, is Astrum Nova.
- 27:45SPEAKER_00: And this is by Lexemus.
- 27:46SPEAKER_00: Leximas is a brand from Britain, but they've been they had quite a collection of interesting fragrances over the past years.
- 27:54SPEAKER_00: But this one really, I think it stood out to me because there is mango and bergamot with like mandarin, so it's very juicy in the opening, and then you have osmanthus and an oris, which is a root of an iris, and then you have ood with again tank bean.
- 28:11SPEAKER_00: Tancribien is gonna be uh popping up here all the time.
- 28:14SPEAKER_00: Yeah, we can see it.
- 28:16SPEAKER_00: Yeah, Toncabean seems to be like really, you know, pushing its way through as one of star ingredients for for the past few years, but especially this year.
- 28:25SPEAKER_00: So this is definitely an interesting take on ood because it's very mango-centric, and mango appeals to a lot of women, you know, people in general, but we've seen a lot of fragrances with mango, a lot of them for women, a lot of them unisex, but we've seen mango kind of done in the same way again and again and again.
- 28:44SPEAKER_00: So this is a whole putting a whole different spin on it.
- 28:46SPEAKER_00: And I think if you're trying to explore ood, but you're still kind of want to stay within a fun and delicious aspect of fragrances, this is a way to step into that ood land, you know, and explore while still holding on to your lush, you know, florals and kind of juicy fruits.
- 29:04SPEAKER_00: So that one I would say is definitely something I would pay attention to.
- 29:08SPEAKER_00: And then there was an ood that took me, uh it just blew me away.
- 29:13SPEAKER_00: And this is by a brand called Atelier Materi.
- 29:16SPEAKER_00: They also offer France um female-owned brands, and they focus on highlighting one ingredient with each of their fragrances, and they launched a set of extraits, and one of them, you know, all three extraits are beautiful.
- 29:30SPEAKER_00: One of them is focuses on Neroli with pistachio, which is gorgeous.
- 29:34SPEAKER_00: Another one is an amber-based extrait.
- 29:36SPEAKER_00: But the one that really blew me away was burgancy oud.
- 29:40SPEAKER_00: And the burgency oud, to me, it also features black currant.
- 29:46SPEAKER_00: But what really stood out to me was that it reads if you don't actually look at the notes breakdown and at the ingredients itself, you know, because it has black currant, it had like magnolia, it had oud, it had leather.
- 30:01SPEAKER_00: But if you take the whole composition and you just smell it, to me, it smelled like a great glass of Cabernet Sauvignon, you know.
- 30:11SPEAKER_00: So and it was just it was so beautiful.
- 30:16SPEAKER_00: Like it, I I you know, I I tried it and I'm like, you know what?
- 30:21SPEAKER_00: Well, maybe like a full-bodied pinot noir, you know, where you just you know, perhaps a Merlot for some people.
- 30:29SPEAKER_00: But it was it was just such an interesting experience in terms of it does it, but it definitely reads as a full-bodied wine.
- 30:37SPEAKER_00: So it's so beautiful, it's very thick, you know.
- 30:40SPEAKER_00: You have it's very aromatic, it's very thick and kind of juicy on a palette, but then you're left with this really beautiful ood and leather in a dry down, which kind of leaves you with this kind of sweet, woody aftertaste, like really smelling like the barrel that the wine had been aged in.
- 30:57SPEAKER_00: So to me, this is one ood that stood out among anything else, and I've been wearing it and really craving it.
- 31:04SPEAKER_00: I started wearing it a few months ago, and even in the summer, like on days that it wasn't so hot, I was I was indulging.
- 31:12SPEAKER_00: But especially now when the weather has turned into more chillier, I cannot wait to wear this because it's just gonna be oh, it's just it's gonna be a marvelous wear.
- 31:22SPEAKER_00: So highly recommend that one because it's just it stands out.
- 31:25SPEAKER_00: And of course, Creed um launched Oud Zaryan, which supposedly has this 80-year-old aged ood.
- 31:33SPEAKER_00: And I mean, of course, Creed can afford it, its customers can afford it because they have crazy price tags.
- 31:38SPEAKER_00: And that one is also an interesting wear because it's very, very smooth on how it wears.
- 31:47SPEAKER_00: And it just comes in this really beautiful presentation.
- 31:51SPEAKER_00: It's well, I mean, a Creed customer, it usually stays within the brands and continues buying into their brands, you know, year after year, because it's definitely um a love, you know, almost like a collector that is following certain brand or collecting scotches or things like that.
- 32:09SPEAKER_00: So I noticed that they also had some the the dry down had those licorice and myrrh and again tonka bean, patchouli and and sandal wood, and it it opens up with a little bit more kind of spicy bite because it has frankincense and ginger in the opening.
- 32:25SPEAKER_00: It has a rose in a in a heart, which I don't really pick up on, but to me it's the dry down of that, you know, resins and and licorice and and ood that really stands out.
- 32:35SPEAKER_00: So that's something that I think for anybody who's interested in in the true representation of ood, and it's kind of in its, I think they really try to highlight the essence of real wood here.
- 32:46SPEAKER_00: So if you're looking for that, this would be a good one to smell.
- 32:50SPEAKER_00: And another one that is called Perfect Oud.
- 32:53SPEAKER_00: And Perfect Oud is also the extrait of the original um that was launched a few years ago, and it was quite a top seller for the brands.
- 33:02SPEAKER_00: So it I'm not surprised that they launched an extrait version, which comes in this really pretty black bottle.
- 33:07SPEAKER_00: And that is another one that I would say is a really good representation of what oud would smell like to a lot of people.
- 33:15SPEAKER_00: And that one has it first of all, it's made by Alberto Marias, he is one of the top perfumers in the world, and he owns the brand that actually is from Switzerland, where he's originally from.
- 33:26SPEAKER_00: So the that one particularly, it opens with like a spicy cardamom, has rose and cedar, and then it dries down to rum and oud.
- 33:34SPEAKER_00: And I think the rum and oud accord with a little bit of vanilla and incense is just marvelous because that booziness and it dry down, it really amplifies the oud and the rose.
- 33:45SPEAKER_00: So if you're looking again for that kind of resinous take on like the true representation of oud, I would look in that direction, but because I think you'll find that exact DNA.
- 33:55SPEAKER_00: And one I think is worth mentioning for sure that I kind of want to close, you know, the ood selection with would be this um new launch by Goldfield and Banks.
- 34:07SPEAKER_00: And that's a brand from Australia.
- 34:08SPEAKER_00: So we kind of covered a whole lot of different countries in this, in this, yeah, in this lineup.
- 34:14SPEAKER_00: But this is a salty amber oud.
- 34:17SPEAKER_00: And again, it has this minerality that I spoke about before.
- 34:21SPEAKER_00: Uh, it's called Tales of Amber.
- 34:23SPEAKER_00: And while oud is not particularly the main composition here, I think that it really works so well together, you know, they kind of have this perfect tango.
- 34:35SPEAKER_00: And what I love about this one is that it's quite unusual take on both ood and amber, and it has this really salty, airy, mossy kind of opening.
- 34:48SPEAKER_00: And it's really hard for me to even describe it because I have to say that it kind of took me through all these different stages when I was first wearing the fragrance when it was sent to me, because I was trying to understand what it is really about, because it opens with orange blossom, but it's not like any orange blossom that I've smelled before.
- 35:05SPEAKER_00: It also has moss, but it's not truly a moss fragrance.
- 35:08SPEAKER_00: It also has uh oris, you know, which is like this big kind of buttery iris take, but this is by no means an iris fragrance.
- 35:15SPEAKER_00: And then it has labdinum ood, you know, vanilla and ambergree and ambergris, this whale vomit that is also a very, very expensive ingredient.
- 35:24SPEAKER_00: And it does have this kind of salty anomalic muskiness about it.
- 35:27SPEAKER_00: So it threw me in all these different directions, but in the best way possible, where it just kind of continued to surprise me on skin, and it was, you know, salty and warm and mineral, and all of a sudden resinous, and then it kind of turned into this warm muskiness, then I felt something green and airy.
- 35:45SPEAKER_00: So it was just a beautiful wear.
- 35:47SPEAKER_00: And I think this is definitely not for a beginner, I think this is for somebody who is a seasoned fragrance lover, but it's definitely a release that really surprised me in all the good ways.
- 36:00SPEAKER_00: So that kind of covers my ood obsession.
- 36:03SPEAKER_00: I love it.
- 36:04SPEAKER_01: No, I love it so much.
- 36:05SPEAKER_01: That sounds amazing.
- 36:06SPEAKER_01: Every single one sounds so fantastic.
- 36:08SPEAKER_01: And it's I love how you have a variety here because yeah, oud is like I said before you dove into your favorites, was it ood is I think another one of those notes where you see it a lot, especially right now.
- 36:20SPEAKER_01: I've seen it quite a bit on social media, everyone's really talking about it.
- 36:23SPEAKER_01: But again, for me, it wears I really have to be picky, you know what I mean, with which ones I choose because they can either be too strong or maybe they don't layer well with others.
- 36:34SPEAKER_01: So it's very interesting to hear your favorites, especially the ones with the tropical notes.
- 36:38SPEAKER_01: That I found that to be very interesting that you love that.
- 36:41SPEAKER_00: I love when you when you're building the list to try, hopefully later on.
- 36:45SPEAKER_00: That's that's the point.
- 36:47SPEAKER_01: Yeah, no, it's beautiful.
- 36:48SPEAKER_01: I absolutely love it.
- 36:49SPEAKER_01: And thank you so much for sharing them.
- 36:51SPEAKER_01: What is something you're looking forward to, Olia, with the with fragrance, you know, in the coming year?
- 36:55SPEAKER_01: Is there something that really has caught your eye, whether it's like a note or a trend that you see coming up?
- 37:02SPEAKER_00: You know, there are always new fragrance notes being developed, and there's actually, I think it's by Born to Stand Out, they're using that fruit, the durian fruit, the one that smells supposedly really stinky.
- 37:15SPEAKER_00: But I've already seen two fragrances that were launched, actually, both of them focused on also oud, but I haven't really smelled them, so I can't really speak on their behalf just yet.
- 37:24SPEAKER_00: But I did find that interesting because you know, this is definitely a new note that has been on the scene and some brands are tapping into it.
- 37:32SPEAKER_00: Brands that are, you know, rebellious enough to test something out.
- 37:35SPEAKER_00: So I think it's really fun to see when a new accord is being put together by whether it's like Givedon or Simrise or you know, IFF, like all these companies that are that are behind creating some of these new ingredients, you know, bringing them to the market or creating these new accords, then you see some of the brand stepping into it and really putting their own spin on it.
- 37:56SPEAKER_00: So it's always exciting to see who is gonna do what in that sense.
- 38:01SPEAKER_00: And of course, in terms of technology, you know, I think that um AI is big on a scene because people are starting to utilize AI.
- 38:08SPEAKER_00: Some people are saying, you know, that AI is gonna replace humans.
- 38:12SPEAKER_00: I don't think that's ever gonna happen because you still need to work.
- 38:15SPEAKER_00: It's a tool.
- 38:16SPEAKER_00: To me, it's a tool.
- 38:17SPEAKER_00: And for perfumers, it's a tool.
- 38:19SPEAKER_00: And for a lot of people in the industry, it's simply a tool that um helps you create perhaps faster or can come up with a certain formula idea that maybe a perfumer would have not thought of immediately, but yet he gets to test it out and perhaps bring it to the market if it's the right one.
- 38:35SPEAKER_00: So I think there's all these things happening with the AI field that can be applicable and kind of can be applied and used and utilized in a great sense.
- 38:43SPEAKER_00: And I'm curious to kind of see it develop and blossom and see how different brands and companies are going to be utilizing it because AI is here, whether you like it or not, you know, it's here and you have to figure out how to run with it and use it to your advantage versus sitting there and saying, you know, this is like horrible that you're using it.
- 39:01SPEAKER_00: It's just a matter of how the brands are using it.
- 39:03SPEAKER_00: And as long as it's in an ethical way, as long as it's in a way that is in a way that helps the fragrance community and fra and fragrance industry altogether, I find that exciting.
- 39:15SPEAKER_00: So I'm definitely watching closely and seeing what's what's going to be out there.
- 39:19SPEAKER_00: And one category that I really love myself is the boozy category, where it you know taps into all these different spirits.
- 39:27SPEAKER_00: So we have a lot of different liqueurs that are being used, you know, and well, of course, it's just an accord that's supposed to replicate the scents.
- 39:35SPEAKER_00: We have champagne, like Zerjov is one brand that specifically tapped into champagne, and they actually even um had some champagne at a lot of their parties, like it was basically the fragrance that was based on it.
- 39:48SPEAKER_00: And I covered it before my channels.
- 39:50SPEAKER_00: It was definitely something that was fun.
- 39:52SPEAKER_00: I think they are coming up with a rosé version of that champagne fragrance.
- 39:56SPEAKER_00: So that's exciting to see.
- 39:58SPEAKER_00: And just seeing what other liqueurs are out there on booziness, you know, we have Mika F is actually supposed to launch or well, they just presented it in can.
- 40:07SPEAKER_00: It's called Notorious XO.
- 40:09SPEAKER_00: It's supposed to be inspired by Ponyak.
- 40:11SPEAKER_00: So it's so much happening in terms of that.
- 40:14SPEAKER_00: And I'm not big on drinking.
- 40:15SPEAKER_00: I can, of course, enjoy an occasional martini, but I enjoy the boozy fragrances a lot more.
- 40:22SPEAKER_00: So I think there's definitely a lot of room to create there.
- 40:25SPEAKER_00: So yeah, there's a lot of things happening, and I'm just always here to explore and learn because that's an exciting industry to be a part of.
- 40:33SPEAKER_00: And like I said, there's always something coming up that's exciting and truly innovative.
- 40:37SPEAKER_00: So I'm here for every single one of those spritzes of innovation.
- 40:42SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
- 40:42SPEAKER_01: No, I love following around with following your content because I always find something new and I always love your takes on everything, whether it's skincare or fragrance.
- 40:50SPEAKER_01: You cover so many beautiful categories in such a unique way.
- 40:54SPEAKER_01: I mean, I'm very excited as well about everything you've mentioned here.
- 40:57SPEAKER_01: I think a lot of times in fragrance, I for those of us who are not as well versed as yourself, I think you can get very swept up in the trends.
- 41:04SPEAKER_01: And that's why I asked you is like, you know, what's coming up that you're excited about?
- 41:08SPEAKER_01: Because it's sometimes you miss some great, great scents, some really great ones because you get so wrapped up in like, okay, everyone's smelling like a cupcake right now, you know.
- 41:17SPEAKER_01: Let me go by the same thing.
- 41:19SPEAKER_01: So I think it's very fascinating.
- 41:20SPEAKER_01: I always learn something every time we speak.
- 41:22SPEAKER_00: I do want to mention that I think that exactly like I just wanted to um run with that thought that you had that it's overwhelming.
- 41:30SPEAKER_00: And I think that sometimes we're so wrapped up in all the new launches that I always say, go back to your closet, you know, of wardrobes, go back to your existing collection and perhaps revisit some of those fragrances and maybe ask your mom, your aunt, you know, your sister, like your friends that what did they wear before?
- 41:49SPEAKER_00: What were some of the exciting things that they had in the past, and maybe revisit those fragrances?
- 41:55SPEAKER_00: Because I feel like we're so wrapped up with all the new novelty and you know what's coming up, what is the hottest thing on TikTok that we really end up missing some of the fragrances that have been on the market for a while.
- 42:07SPEAKER_00: And of course, you know, if we go through if we go down that rabbit hole, we can be here until probably the next tomorrow because we're gonna be talking about all the fragrances that deserve some love.
- 42:17SPEAKER_00: But it and that could be a whole separate episode, by the way, because I think there's so many fragrances that are so underrated and they kind of get buried under all this newness.
- 42:26SPEAKER_00: So it's definitely something that I always say to people like, don't get overwhelmed, just focus on, you know, maybe smelling five fragrances at a time and truly giving them a proper wear and just going back to some of the things that have worked before and seeing like what are the things you can revisit?
- 42:43SPEAKER_00: Kind of like old friends that you know don't really, they never go out of style, they're always gonna be there and being with them just feels really good.
- 42:51SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I love that you said that because I feel like no one says this, you know, it's always about oh, well, this is new and this is new.
- 42:57SPEAKER_01: And it's like, well, I'm still wearing the same five perfumes I was wearing like 10 years ago.
- 43:01SPEAKER_01: So I don't know if I'm like a grandma or like what, but I have, you know.
- 43:07SPEAKER_01: So no, I love that point.
- 43:09SPEAKER_01: I think that's a very valid point.
- 43:10SPEAKER_01: And I also like in terms of layering, too, right?
- 43:12SPEAKER_01: I mean, I feel like people don't explore enough sometimes with layering because you know, a lot of the fragrances you mentioned, like I just was thinking the whole time, what can I pair this with, you know, that I already own in my collection?
- 43:23SPEAKER_01: Like, how can I use this to enhance what I already own?
- 43:26SPEAKER_01: And that's a very unique, I think, way to explore in terms of you can still discover new stuff, but you still add on to your collection in a beautiful and meaningful way.
- 43:35SPEAKER_01: And I just don't see enough of that.
- 43:36SPEAKER_01: So I would love to have you do like a whole episode with us, you know, about the ones that you've really kind of held on to over the years in your oh, I would love that.
- 43:44SPEAKER_01: I would love that.
- 43:46SPEAKER_01: Well, thank you so much, Olia.
- 43:47SPEAKER_01: This was so amazing as always.
- 43:49SPEAKER_01: And you are truly like the fragrance expert.
- 43:51SPEAKER_01: I literally love every single recommendation, I'm not even lying, that I ever see on your pages.
- 43:56SPEAKER_01: And for everyone listening, I'm going to be linking Olya's um socials as well in the in the notes for this episode.
- 44:01SPEAKER_01: So please scroll down and give her a follow.
- 44:04SPEAKER_01: I promise you will not be disappointed.
- 44:05SPEAKER_01: Whether it's skincare fragrance, like I said, she's always on point with all of her recommendations.
- 44:10SPEAKER_01: But thank you again so much, Olia.
- 44:11SPEAKER_01: This is wonderful.
- 44:13SPEAKER_01: Thank you for having me.
- 44:14SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
- 44:15SPEAKER_01: Hey guys, so I hope you love that episode.
- 44:18SPEAKER_01: Please make sure to hit subscribe if you're tuning in to us on any podcast platform.
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